MacBook Pro / MacBook memory compatibility
I have a 2.2 Duo MBP. I am going to upgrade to 4G of ram and I have a friend that owns a MacBook Black 2.0 Duo. From what I can see, they are both 200 pin SODIMM's PC-2 5300, 128x64. She wants to buy both of my 1G sticks from my MBP to max out her MacBook. Will the memory work?
wallrat1975,
Yes.
Scott
Similar Messages
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Ok, so i bought a 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM for my late 2011 13" MacBook Pro whose memory runs at 1067 MHz (I was also told that late 2011 MBPs run at 1333MHz, is mine an exception, if so, why?)... Im looking for all possibilities to close the compatibility gap because computer freezes at boot and was wondering if there was anything i could do to get this 16GB DDR3 1333MHz RAM to work at 1067MHz or somehow get my computer to run at 1333MHz?...
You don't have a late 2011 MB Pro.
You have a 2010 version. Your MB doesn't support 16GB. 8GB Max.
That's what it shows on your about this MAC.
You need to return the RAM and get 8GB ( 2 X 4GB ) 1066MHz.
Your system bus is set to 1066MHz.
You're having issues because you've installed more RAM than your MB can support. It's only reading 4GB per bank which totals to 8GB and not 16GB. -
My macbook pro's memory is full and I purchased an external hard drive. I am using timemachine, but need to earse/free up some memory on my laptop. How do I do this?
Christinag1317 wrote:
My macbook pro's memory is full and I purchased an external hard drive. I am using timemachine, but need to earse/free up some memory on my laptop. How do I do this?
Ok when you refer to "memory" that is the Random Access Memory which is temporary memory the processor (worker) uses to store stuff while it's using it. Power goes off whats in the memory is gone.
Your storage drive is where data is pernamnetly stored if the power is on/off.
So what you really mean to say is your storage drive is filled up and you need to make some room.
You have a TimeMachine drive, what this does is makes a image of your internal storage drive as a backup method, it also allows some "back in time" restoration of your previous deleted files depending how much space is on that drive. The more space, the less data you have, the more days you can go back in time to retrieve something.
Unfortunatly the TimeMachine drive is not a extra space storage drive, it automatically rotates what appears on your internal storage drive. So if you delete something from the internal drive, it eventually gets deleted from the TimeMachine drive.
So you need to make some more room on your internal drive, this is rather easy, all you need is ANOTHER external drive and connect it to the Mac. Give it a name like ExtraStorage#1 and thenyou will have to decide which of your User files you really don't need on the internal drive.
For instance the best choice would be to move some movies out of your Movies folder to another MoviesExtra folder on the ExtraStorage#1 drive.
Movies take a LOT of drive space and you can always copy them on or off, or watch them from the ExtraStorage#1 drive as well. But if your going to do this a lot, you should consider getting a Firewire 800/400, USB 3,2,1 combination drive as Firewire 800 is fastest and decently priced (Thunderbolt is very high priced and overkill at this time)
The other things like Documents are quite small, Pictures can take a lot of space if you have a lot, but if you need them on the internal drive then that's better. Music one tends to use a lot or manage playlists and such, but perhaps some music you may which to move off or "prune", I suggest always burning data DVD's of music especially for extra backups.
Once you have freed some room on the internal drive, this liitle neat program will show you what is taking the largest amount of space on your internal drive.
http://grandperspectiv.sourceforge.net/
After a scan, right click on the big squares to "revel in Finder" to show you what's taking the largest amount of space, be warned it also opens up hidden system files and folders, which you won't be able to move. So concentrate on what's inthe Users folder.
Likely if you have a lot of Movies this is the biggest culprit on most standard internal hard drives. Also if you have something in iTunes that's auto-downloading something like PodCasts and not deleting the older ones and you forget. So go there and fix things and that can free up drive space.
If you bought a small SSD with your new Mac, then the price of that SSD has come back to haunt you with low storage space, you will have to think carefully what you can live without on the internal drive.
Once you have slimmed things down, TimeMachine will update to reflect your slimmer internal drive. What this means is there is only one copy of your data on the ExtraStorage#1 drive.
You need to maintain two copies of your data at all times on seperate hardware, so now you need ANOTHER storage drive (ExtraStorage#2) to copy everythinng of ExtraStorage#1, or else if you drop or have a mechanical problem with ES#1 all that data will be gone!
If you wish to learn more then I suggest reading these two links
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16276201#16276201
http://pondini.org/OSX/Home.html -
MacBook Pro, MacBook Pro2,1 Running Very Slow Under Mavericks
I have been having extreme slowness issues with lots of SBOD spinning delays since upgrading my older MacBook Pro to Mavericks last month. It takes forever to "see" and run a back-up on my G Drive Time Machie drive, which has been historically very speedy and reliable. It should not take 5 hours to back up to the daily Time Machine drive, which at most took 20 minutes, maybe 30 if I installed new OS X software upgrades or updates. Sometimes when I run my third party software (much of it from MicroSoft Office, FileMaker, and the second to latest Adobe Master Collection Suite), I get more SBODs and some hiccuping until the software/document boots up. As recently as Mountain Lion, this was never an issue before, normal things that just ran seemlessly without thinking. Very occasionally even when shutting down, the finder loses track of what it is doing. When I do the Force Quit thing because third party software or the Finder Launcher has become "not resposive," even this can take a long time. I am wondering if this has to do with Mavericks bug/feature of rationing out unused memory, which my memory chips may not like on my bottom of the compatibility bracket machine spectrum. Is there perhaps a need for a more up to date firmware version for my model?
I have tried all available software testing options, and I found nothing that seemed amiss in the software end at all. I cannot access anything like Apple Hardware Test to assess and hardware problems either via my proprietary Mavericks-installed bootable OS X and Utilities partition or via the Apple Support Site to see if a dying hard drive is the culprit.
FYI About this Mac, which Apple's Support Site swears will work with Mavericks.
Model: MacBook Pro, MacBook Pro3,1 (late 2007 - early 2008) (17", 2.6 GHz)(Built as an online order, to my specifications)
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo
Hard Drive: 250 GB (SATA Disk) (64.83 MB Available To Me, Remainder Taken Up By Apple OS X proprietary partition)
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT 256 MB
Built-In Display: 17" (1920 x 1200)
Memory: 4 GB 667 MHrz DDR2 SDRAM (2 Banks of 2 MB each) (Full complement)
L2 Cache: 4 MB
Bus Speed: 800 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MBP31.0070.B07
Hardware UUID: 00000000-0000-1000-8000-001EC2127516
SMC Hardware Version: 1.18ƒ5
Current Version of Mavericks: OS X 10.9.2, Original Installed Version: Mavericks OS X 10.9.0 (13C64)
When I installed the new system software from the App Store, I did remember to disable my Norton Security Suite, so the download and installation should have been clean and unimpeded. There were no reported problems with the installation or the upgrade process. I chose the option at original installation to upgrade my laptop using the "migrate from my latest Time Machine Backup feature" to preserve the third party applications and settings.
My Firmware was all up to date, according to the Apple Support Page articles relating to my model. All permissions checked out OK as did all verification tests on the Mountain Lion Apple Partition (the one accessed via restarting with Command-R) before I started.
Since Apple has not been willing to release its system core software to the third- party makers of my Optimizing software (Disk Warrior, Alsoft), I have not been able to optimize the contents of my hard drive since the version that came out with Lion OS X 10.7; this may be a possible source of my problem. If my files are badly fragmented, it is difficult for the Finder to find and work with Apps and Documents, most especially with any great speed. I attempted to do likewise with TechTool Pro 7.x (MicroMat); likewise they could not optimize or check out my whole hard drive volume. A suggested solution of installing a Bootable drive into Apple's proprietary OS partition sounds like it would erase the Mavericks OS X/ Diagnostic Drive rather than be added to it. Could Apple work with Alsoft and MicroMat, so they can make current Boot-Up disks that would again allow me to optimize my entire HD volume? Otherwise, could Apple write its own optimization suite to help speed up my hard drive, if it is unwilling to share its operating code with third-party diagnostic software developers?
Then I thought of using Apple Hardware Test using the familiar Command-D from the Apple proprietary partiion (that was expected to still be included with the OS X Mavericks original upload from the App Store. I found it was not installed despite following the Apple Support Page directions and nothing including ethernet connected. When I tried to connect via the alternate method from the Apple Support Cloud using Option-D, my laptop found nothing at Apple's end. Does such diagnostic software still exist, or has this been scrapped. It would be an imptant tool to use to see if the source
I rerun Permissions and Verification in Command-R mode periodically since upgrading to Mavericks., and all permissions and disk integrity from this test have been corrected and updated as of today. Everything checks out as just fine in terms of software. I am out of ideas of what else to check from my end. Unless anyone in the Apple Support Community has any other good suggestions as to what might be wrong (other than an Apple software tweak) that I can do at my home office, I will have to take my poor laptop over to the nearest Apple Genius Bar and turn my older laptop over to a hardware technician at full cost (Applecare has long since run out).
All suggestions for fixes are welcomed.
— Sally MayerLaunch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then try the action that you're having trouble with again. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting. -
Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.
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I have installed OS X Mavericks on macbook pro, macbook air & iMac but I am having terrible trouble with apple Mail. I need to take all accounts online frequently OR worse I have to quit mail and restart computer. Is anyone else having problems?
I just checked to see if the update to OS X Yosemite 10.10.1 solved any of the issues outlined in my previous post, and to my dismay, nothing has changed -- all of the previous problems persist.
My iMac (8) -- it's renamed itself eight times since the recent troubleshoot with the Apple tech rep -- shows up as a shared device in Finder on my MacBook Pro, but when I click on it, I cannot establish a connection using "Connect As". So I've attempted to connect using the menu "Go/Connect to Server...", using both (alternately) the iMac's name and IP address, to no avail. I get a message which reads: "There was a problem connecting to the server 'Peter's iMac (8)'. This server may not exist or it is unavailable at this time. Check the server name or IP address, check your network connection, and then try again."
Here's what I know:
The server -- Peter's iMac (8) does exist;
The server -- Peter's iMac (8) is available at this time;
The server name -- Peter's iMac (8) -- is correct, as specified in the system sharing preferences;
The server IP address is correct, as specified in the system sharing preferences;
The network connection is active when I attempt to connect.
I'm convinced the problems stem directly from the OS X Yosemite update. None of this was ever remotely an issue in the previous OS X's -- any of them. This is maddening! What can be done? Apple?? Anyone??? -
Older MacBook Pro needs memory upgrade, but there is a problem
I have an older 17" MBP (probably 2006 or so), Mac OS 10.6.7, that has a 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processor and 4 GB of 667 MHΩ DDR2 SDRAM installed. Can I upgrade that to a faster DDR2, such as the 1067 MHz chip? If not, what do I do since I need the memory to keep things from crashing and/or taking forever to load?
Silver keys: Yes
Hardware:
Model Name: MacBook Pro
Model Identifier: MacBookPro3,1
Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
Plus, I just ran the Crucial scan and got this:
Memory Type: DDR2 PC2-5300, DDR2 (non-ECC)
Maximum Memory: 4GB
Currently Installed Memory: 4GB
Total Memory Slots: 2
Available Memory Slots: 0
It appears that I am already maxed out on memory. Guess I will have to figure something else out.
Message was edited by: DenaliDad -
Quirky Macbook Pro After Memory upgrade and big movie project
Hi all,
Last December I made a movie for a class project with imovie. I noticed that the processor temp got up to 180-190 degrees for long periods of time (I use Intel's CoreDuo Temp reader to tell). Ever since then my MBP has been real flaky and weird. I wonder if I burnt the chip or something. Here are some of the issues
Applications crashing (Apple and 3rd party)
hard time finishing big tasks (i.e. they start but then crash towards the end)
major slow downs at odd times
Overall loss of performance
Beachball for no reason
WILL NOT ARCHIVE!!!
WILL NOT TRANSFER BIG FILES TO EXTERNAL HD!!!
(those two are big to me)
I found a great app called fancontrol 1.1 and since then my temps have been down. wish I knew about it before my project. It's as if I can't trust this thing with anything more than surfing the net. Even that has been messed up lately.
I recently bought an extra gig of memory (I used 667 mhz ddr2 sdram bumping it to 2gb total) and that made things worse. Apps and performance are a little more unstable. I then completely wiped the hard drive and reinstalled the OS and all the updates and it still runs noticably slower than when I first got it. Stability got better but not at the level I would expect with 2gb of ram. I barely made it through making a movie yesterday. Had a crash at end of burning the DVD and had to re-render everything.
My biggest fear is that since I have one of the first Macbook Pros (I was one of the waitlist people) that I am screwed out of my warranty. I think it expires sometime this month. I use this thing everyday and I can't afford to upgrade. I'm pretty savy with macs and I've done about everything I can. Any advice or insight will be much apreciated.
MacBook Pro 1.83 ghz 2gb Mac OS X (10.4.8)Among other things: Have you performed the firmware updates required for your particular model?
Have you run diagnostics? Boot from the OS X Installer Disc One and after the chime press and hold down the "D" key until the diagnostic screen appears. Run the extended tests several times.
Check that you have properly installed the added RAM. It's quite easy to insert it improperly. Remove the new RAM module to see if the problems cease. If they do you have a defective module.
Under heavy load it's not uncommon for the CPU core temperature to reach 83-85 ºC. Normal idle temperature may range between 40-45 ºC.
Otherwise, take the computer to an Apple service center for service.
Why reward points?(Quoted from Discussions Terms of Use.)
The reward system helps to increase community participation. When a community member gives you (or another member) a reward for providing helpful advice or a solution to their question, your accumulated points will increase your status level within the community.
Members may reward you with 5 points if they deem that your reply is helpful and 10 points if you post a solution to their issue. Likewise, when you mark a reply as Helpful or Solved in your own created topic, you will be awarding the respondent with the same point values. -
New SSD (2014) and Macbook pro 4.1 compatability
Hi All-
Given current prices, I would like to upgrade my hard drive on my early 2008, Macbook Pro (4.1, pre-unibody) and also upgrade my OS (Snow Leopard to Yosemite).
The hard drive in this Macbook pro has a Sata I connection and I am wondering what my best SSD options are in 2014.
I am most concerned about issues of potential backward compatibility of Sata III with SataI.
I understand Sata III should be be backward compatible with Sata I, but I've seen that some people have had issues with this.
So I am wondering if anyone has actually made this upgrade with any of the newer SSD drives that are available (Samsung 840 Evo, SanDisk Extreme Pro, Crucial m550) and how it has worked out?
I understand OWC sells compatible drives, but given the great prices on these newer drives, I am leaning towards a more current drive with all it's modern goodness (longevity+controller) with the understanding that my Sata I connection will be a bottleneck.
I am also curious about whether I should just look for older Sata II SSDs? For this I would need recommendations.
Thank you very much in advance. And if there is anything I've failed to consider, feel free to let me know.I have installed a SanDisk SSD with great success. At the same time I removed the optical drive which doubled the SATA speed. Here are the stats from my system:
Vendor:
NVidia
Product:
MCP79 AHCI
Link Speed:
3 Gigabit
Negotiated Link Speed:
3 Gigabit
Physical Interconnect:
SATA
Description:
AHCI Version 1.20 Supported
SanDisk SDSSDXPS480G:
Capacity:
480.1 GB (480,103,981,056 bytes)
Model:
SanDisk SDSSDXPS480G
Revision:
X21100RL
Serial Number:
143631400200
Native Command Queuing:
Yes
Queue Depth:
32
Removable Media:
No
Detachable Drive:
No
BSD Name:
disk0
Medium Type:
Solid State
TRIM Support:
No
Partition Map Type:
GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status:
Verified
Volumes:
EFI:
Capacity:
209.7 MB (209,715,200 bytes)
BSD Name:
disk0s1
Content:
EFI
Volume UUID:
0E239BC6-F960-3107-89CF-1C97F78BB46B
SanDisk:
Capacity:
479.11 GB (479,110,004,736 bytes)
Available:
347.42 GB (347,417,059,328 bytes)
Writable:
Yes
File System:
Journaled HFS+
BSD Name:
disk0s2
Mount Point:
Content:
Apple_HFS
Volume UUID:
FA84107F-322D-37F3-BE2F-779C43F45EAB
Recovery HD:
Capacity:
650 MB (650,002,432 bytes)
BSD Name:
disk0s3
Content:
Apple_Boot
Volume UUID:
D22A1C35-6C0C-3D7E-A496-EC53E520CE58
Results
372.27
System Info
Xbench Version
1.3
System Version
10.10.1 (14B25)
Physical RAM
8192 MB
Model
MacBookPro5,3
Drive Type
SanDisk SDSSDXPS480G
Disk Test
372.27
Sequential
236.05
Uncached Write
362.92
222.83 MB/sec [4K blocks]
Uncached Write
291.38
164.86 MB/sec [256K blocks]
Uncached Read
120.27
35.20 MB/sec [4K blocks]
Uncached Read
409.21
205.66 MB/sec [256K blocks]
Random
880.18
Uncached Write
1265.59
133.98 MB/sec [4K blocks]
Uncached Write
542.25
173.59 MB/sec [256K blocks]
Uncached Read
1628.39
11.54 MB/sec [4K blocks]
Uncached Read
771.54
143.16 MB/sec [256K blocks] -
Macbook Pro 17" memory install upgrade problem
I have just installed 2 4GB RAM chips into my Macbook Pro 17" mid 2009 2.8GHz; Checking system info I am seeing Bank 0 with 4GB DDR3 1067 MHz and Bank 1 shows 2GB DDR3 1067 MHz. Both chips are seated properly & MacBK operates fine how do I correct this?
Does it show properly when the old memory is reinstalled?
What brand is the new memory -- OWC or Crucial?
Just because you *think* memory is installed properly does not mean it is. Seating memory is tricky, and even professionals may need to reseat memory. -
Macbook Pro - VGA monitor compatibility?
Hi there,
I just bought a new MacBook Pro i5 to return to the Apple fold after many years of being forced to wander the Windows desert (with Linux oasis stops along the way) and I'm having a problem with external displays. I bought a Thunderbolt-VGA adapter and have an older VGA LCD monitor (NEC Multisync 1850e) that I'd like to use for an extended desktop. I also can borrow my wife's 21" Dell LCD display for testing. Here's what happens with BOTH monitors and both video cables regardless of the combination. I hook either one of them up to the Thunderbolt port via the adapter and both monitors go into powersave mode, as if they are not connected to anything. The Mac does NOT detect either of them, no matter what I do, reboot the Mac with the monitors connected, or connect the monitors after startup, no additional displays ever appear in the Display utility. And of course, both monitors work fine on both Windows machines that we have in the house. I have been unable to find a list of Thunderbolt compatible displays and wonder if these monitors are just too old for some reason (~5 yrs), but then SVGA is SVGA as a video format n'est pas? And yes, I have the latest software updates on 10.7.2 which included a Thunderbolt SW update that didn't help.
Any suggestions besides going to the Apple store and getting another Thunderbolt-VGA adapter which I'm going to do now?
TIA,
dr.oddIs this a REAL Apple TB/Mini Displayport adapter?
I tried one of the aftermarket adapters, $7.00 cheaper, and it didn't work, Nothing/Nada.
Took it back and bought the Apple adapters, yes both VGA & DVI, and they both worked first time.
If you have REAL Apple adapter/s try going into Display properties and Detect Displays. Sorry I'm not at my Mac right now so I can't give youy detailed instructions but just start clicking on all options.
Funny part is MBPs, IMHO, don't handle external monitors well. When I connected my old work CRT monitor it detected it but could not get the resolution correct, at first. then there is no way to turn off the internal display without closing the lid, putting it into Clam Shell mode, but to do that you need to have a external keyboard, a mouse and the AC power connected.
Good Luck -
2012 MacBook Pro 15 Memory Upgrade
Hi all,
I have a solid state 2012 MacBook pro (15"). It has 16GB RAM. I like to make that 32GB by replacing the two 8GB modules with 16GB modules. Is this possible? Will the computer see them?
Thanks,
nima zahadatNot sure which 2012 model you have:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/by_year/macs-released-in-2012.html
Once you figure out, then you get the answer from that page.
How to find your Mac's model and age?
Should help.
Note, http://www.macsales.com/ http://www.datamem.com/ and http://www.crucial.com/ are the only vendors I recommend buying from as they let you select the age and model type of 2012 Mac by age and model type and not by spec. The specs may be the same, but if they RAM is not specifically for that age of Mac and model, it may not work. -
MacBook Pro and display compatibility
I have a mid-2009 MacBook Pro and trying to connect with the Apple 20-inch Aluminm LCD Display. M9177LL. The included attachments do not connect. Please advise what connections I need to connect. Thanks.
dlipp1968,
the Apple 20-inch Cinema Display (M9177LL/A) came with a DVI cable, so you would need a Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter (or equivalent) to connect it to your Mid 2009 MacBook Pro. -
MacBook Pro and Thunderbolt compatibility
Can I plug a thunderbolt display to a MacBook Pro and leave it closed? I'm using apple's bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
Yes, if your computer has a Thunderbolt port.
<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131> -
Macbook pro and FCP compatibility
Hey all,
Through work, I have just purchased a Macbook Pro for an FCP project. I started part of this project on a mac pro with final cut pro 4.5/HD. I want to continue this project on the new macbook pro, so i guess my questions are:
- Can i install FCP 4.5 on the macbook pro/ is it compatible?
- I was also thinking about getting FCP 5. Is FCP 5 compatible for the macbook pro and where can i purchase it? I tried the online mac store but couldn't find it?
Thank you in advance!This is the FCP forum area. A good place to ask all your questions:
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=939
and to purchase:
http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/shopmac/software/prodesign?mco=MTM3MDI0Nw
Message was edited by: sig -
MacBook Pro with DVI compatibility
It seems that Apple will let DVI go away and only support the Mini DisplayPort. But, is there a way to use the new Cinema Display along with the current DVI output of the MacBook Pro 17" ?
I guess it's only an adaptor, but I'm unsure...
Message was edited by: SeaBeastI guess / hope that the adapter can be ordered as soon as the display is available in the store (Nov).
What would be also interesting to know is if the Y-cable with the MagSafe, Mini-DisplayPort and USB will fit "around" my MBP 15 inch model or even your 17 inch model. It's quite a stretch for the cable as we do have our connectors on both sides of the MBP. So the end part of the Y-cable has to fit around all the MBP models. The display part of the cable might get a bit of an extension when the (future) adapter is attached.
I was really looking for the 23 inch model when now the 24 came out. But I need to buy a new MB for my wife with the MDP video and it would be strange if I want a display only her MB can connect...
WolfK
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