Matching up camera move

I'm relatively new to shake and had a question. I need to comp a live, underwater shot (w/camera moving-pan) with a GS shot with a similar move. My problem is the two shots/movements aren't exactly lined up. What is the best way to go about matching/sinking up the two shots? Please help.
Thank you

Since you're new to Shake, I would suggest you work through Tutorial Chapter 7
"Tracking and Stabilization".
I assume that the underwater shot needs a dose of SmoothCam, as Patrick suggests,
but maybe the foreground moves were shot with a dolly, so you can skip the
stabilization? Otherwise you have to stabilize the foreground, too.
Either way, since the camera moves don't match exactly, you probably
need to insert a Move2D node in the foreground after SmoothCam and
before the comp. Then you could manually keyframe additional motion
to make the camera paths match.

Similar Messages

Workflow advice on matching different cameras and lenses

Greetings. I'm currently trying to match six cameras and all their different lenses to produce identical images and I need advice on fine tuning my workflow on making the camera profiles.
Me and my team are shooting weddings. We have Nikon D3s, Nikon D3, 2x Canon 5D mk III, Canon 1D mk 3, Canon 5D mk II with 17 lenses and I'm in the middle of the process of matching their colors so when we shoot together I don't go crazy trying to match the white balance between all the cameras in Lightroom.
The issue I have is that I managed to make all the colors, contrast, saturation and brightness for all cameras and lenses on daylight shots identical (with minimal differences) but shots under 2800k light are very different.
I'll explain what I've done so far so that you can find my error and hopefully decide to help me.
I bought a 24 patch color checker and took photos with all cameras - once with a 2800k halogen lamp and then with a 5500k strobe (Nikon SB-800 @ 1/16 power). I shot in RAW. The exposures are good - no blown highlights or unexposed parts. In Camera raw I applied the "Camera neutral" color profile for all cameras. I exported the shots in DNG. For each camera and lens I imported the halogen and flash lit file into DNG Profile editor.
In the chart section I created a color table for the "2850 K only" halogen lit shot and then for the flash lit shot choosing "6500 K only".
So far so good. The colors are good but to achieve them for the different cameras or lenses I need to input different color temperatures and tint. What I want is to set identical color temperature for all photos (say 5500k) and to get identical colors regardless of camera or lens.
So the next step I took to get at least the daylight shots identical is to play with the "White balance calibration" under the "Color matrices" tab. For instance - DNG Profile editor determines that the flash shot should be set to 6050k +8 tint. I move the "white balance calibration" sliders until I reach the numbers I want above the flash shot (5500k). Because the colors shift I press the "Create color table" button again. My goal is to show the program that I want these (calibrated) colors to be achieved at 5500k +0 tint and not 6050k +8 tint. I get the result I want but that affects the 2850k shot. If I readjust the "white balance calibration" sliders for the 2850k shot and use "create color table" again, that ruins the 6500k adjustment.
So using this workflow I get either the daylight shots right or the tungsten lit shots, but not both.
So in short my question is - How do I create proper profiles that produce identical colors among all cameras and lenses under all white balance settings?
Thanks in advance for your help and for your patience to read all this.
PS
I fear I may have put this topic in a wrong section. If you don't mind, I'd post it in the Lightroom section.

Greetings. I'm currently trying to match six cameras and all their different lenses to produce identical images and I need advice on fine tuning my workflow on making the camera profiles.
Me and my team are shooting weddings. We have Nikon D3s, Nikon D3, 2x Canon 5D mk III, Canon 1D mk 3, Canon 5D mk II with 17 lenses and I'm in the middle of the process of matching their colors so when we shoot together I don't go crazy trying to match the white balance between all the cameras in Lightroom.
The issue I have is that I managed to make all the colors, contrast, saturation and brightness for all cameras and lenses on daylight shots identical (with minimal differences) but shots under 2800k light are very different.
I'll explain what I've done so far so that you can find my error and hopefully decide to help me.
I bought a 24 patch color checker and took photos with all cameras - once with a 2800k halogen lamp and then with a 5500k strobe (Nikon SB-800 @ 1/16 power). I shot in RAW. The exposures are good - no blown highlights or unexposed parts. In Camera raw I applied the "Camera neutral" color profile for all cameras. I exported the shots in DNG. For each camera and lens I imported the halogen and flash lit file into DNG Profile editor.
In the chart section I created a color table for the "2850 K only" halogen lit shot and then for the flash lit shot choosing "6500 K only".
So far so good. The colors are good but to achieve them for the different cameras or lenses I need to input different color temperatures and tint. What I want is to set identical color temperature for all photos (say 5500k) and to get identical colors regardless of camera or lens.
So the next step I took to get at least the daylight shots identical is to play with the "White balance calibration" under the "Color matrices" tab. For instance - DNG Profile editor determines that the flash shot should be set to 6050k +8 tint. I move the "white balance calibration" sliders until I reach the numbers I want above the flash shot (5500k). Because the colors shift I press the "Create color table" button again. My goal is to show the program that I want these (calibrated) colors to be achieved at 5500k +0 tint and not 6050k +8 tint. I get the result I want but that affects the 2850k shot. If I readjust the "white balance calibration" sliders for the 2850k shot and use "create color table" again, that ruins the 6500k adjustment.
So using this workflow I get either the daylight shots right or the tungsten lit shots, but not both.
So in short my question is - How do I create proper profiles that produce identical colors among all cameras and lenses under all white balance settings?
Thanks in advance for your help and for your patience to read all this.
PS
I fear I may have put this topic in a wrong section. If you don't mind, I'd post it in the Lightroom section.

Camera moves jerk type breaks up

I am using DVD Studio Pro (4.2.0) for the first time. I output a QT file from a Final Cut project, and imported it as an asset in DVD Studio Pro. In DVD Studio Pro Preferences, Encoding Pane, I set mode at Two Pass VBR, as I understood this would yield best quality. I left the Bit Rate as I found it, 4.0 Mbps and Max Bit Rate at 7.0 Mbps. When I burned the DVD and tried playing it I noticed two quality issues:
1) Some camera moves have jerking quality
2) White titles against black ground break up slightly in areas
When I had previously used iDVD to create a DVD using the same content, neither of these problems existed.
How can I improve the quality using the professional software DVD Studio Pro, so that it matches the consumer software, iDVD???
If this involves changing the details of encoding on the assets already in the DVD project, can you advise as to what the specs should be for encoding?
The content is only 35 minutes long. At the current settings I have used only 1.5 GB of the DVD disc space.
And if I AM to change the encoding specs, can this be done after the assets were imported, or do I have to delete the assest and re-import to re-encode? Thank you so much in advance.

What type of timeline are you using in FInal Cut? (Is it DV etc.)
One way is to set the timeline to Uncompressed when using Text and export as a self contained movie OR send straight to Compressor (with the new Studio it looks improved to me anyway) this will help with quality.
It is best never to encode inside DVD SP
Take a look here
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1072092
and here
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5043902
A couple of threads that may help
Also here
Some info on calculating the rates and how to set things up.
http://dvdstepbystep.com/faqs_3.php
http://dvdstepbystep.com/faqs_7.php
http://dvdstepbystep.com/faqs_4.php

I have Video camera movies that are HD format.. I am doing editing work on them using Final Cut Pro, but using DV PAL format for the projects I am editing. When I then tried to copy my work done in FCP Project that's originally DV PAL , into a new FCP Pro

I have Video camera movies that are HD format.. I am doing editing work on them using Final Cut Pro, but using DV PAL format for the projects I am editing. When I then tried to copy my work done in FCP Project that's originally DV PAL , into a new FCP Project that is HD, and tried reconnect media with original HD movies (video), the sequence project got distorted for all the text, shapes used and all.. everything changed its orientation and scale.. Is there a way by which I can preserve my work done on DV PAL and switch it preserving its proportions, scale and orientation, but on a HD project sequence?? Appreciate your help and advice..

Yes. A couple of ways that might work.
First Way
What you need to do is load one of your hd clips in the viewer and edit into a new HD sequence. Does it display correctionly?
OK, select the clip in the hd timeline and copy (command-c). Now go to the HD sequence with the material that's distorted. Select all (command-a) and paste attributes (option-v) and choose basic motion and distort. That should maek things work. What won't work is anything that you've adjusted as far as basic motion or distort in your PAL sequence. That I'm pretty sure you'll have to redo.
Second Way.
Choose your original PAL sequence and do a Media Manage changing the sequence preset to the appropriate HD paramenters with the media offline. You then should be able to reconnect these clips with your original HD media.

Help! camera movements changing b/w keyframes

Please help! I'm making a kinetic type video and the camera movements change in between the keyframes I set up. For example; if I want the camera to just shift to the right, I copy the frame position, and then change the X axis. When I switch between the two frames everything is right, except the frames that AE makes up in between is also changing the Y axis... but the Y is the same on each keyframe. I've tried looking everywhere for help, everywhere in the program, tried re-doing it mutiple times, restarting AE, ect and I cant figure it out... Please help!

You have a "boomrang" effect, and this can be corrected easily. Select your keyframes, right click and go to "Keyframe Interpolation" and select "linear".
In the preferences menu (edit > preferences > general) you can check the preference "default interpretation to linear" wich is unchecked by default.
Also, one of the neat new feature of AE CS4 is the ability to separate dimensions. It's really time saving when animating cameras or complicated x,y,z mouvement. For that, select your position property, right clic and select "separate dimension". Now you will be able to animate the x,y,z property independantly.

How to create shape that follows camera movement

Hi
I am trying to create a little axis representation on the bottom of the canvas that would be fixed in position relative to the camera and the axis. (i.e. if camera moves or rotate, the axis representation will stay at the same place and rotate accordingly). What is the best way to do this ? Do I extend the Camera/Mouse class and tell it to update the transform group of the axis shapes whenever it moves ? Does anyone have a example of how they did it ?
Thanks, Dave

Julie,
To get something that resembles a straight pill (or a capsule) as the one you describe, you may:
1) Create the outer rounded shape and split it into two: one on top with the stroke, one below with the solid fill corresponding to the colour adjacent to the stroke;
2) Select the filled path and Object>Path>Offset Path, using a negative value that is half the width less a suitable small amount (1pt or something);
3) Change the fill of the small inner path to a paler grey or white;
4) Select both the filled paths and Object>Blend>Make (with Smooth or a suitable number of steps in the Object>Blend Options).
To easily get something that is more like a round pill, you may apply horizontal gradients to the paths in the blend, along with a suitable number of steps.
With a new version, you may also use the new 3D features.

Why Won't This Digital Camera Movie Load Into iPhoto

I shot 186 photos and 12 movies with my Canon digital camera this past week while my wife and I were on vacation. The photos and 11 movies (all about one minute or less) loaded just fine but my longest one (3 minutes which is the maximum for my digital camera) will not load. Is there a maximum time limit for digital camera movies that I have exceeded with iPhoto?

Hi David,
when you say "will not load" do you meant it won't open in Quicktime or it didn't download into iPhoto?
This is what I do;
When iPhoto 5 first came out I really think it was programmed to import the smaller 30 sec video clips that cameras were taking at the time. Since then, digital cameras, at least my Canon S2 can take clips as large as your memory card can hold. The first time I tried to download my images and movie clips with my new camera, iPhoto stalled at the movie clips. I wasn't going to take any chances messing up my iPhoto Library so I started using Image Capture to download all my images and Movie clips. I actually like doing it this way a lot better. My movie clips are downloaded into my Movies folder where I then put them in a dated folder.
My photos are downloaded into my Pictures folder, where I then put them in a dated folder. I import the dated folder into iPhoto. I also keep all dated folders from photo downloads in the Pictures folder till I get enough Movie folders and Photo folders to fill a DVD. I burn them and then delete them from the hard drive.
This way I have the photos in iPhoto and I also have just the photos backed up to DVD.
The Movies I keep on the hard drive in their dated folders until I use all the clips for my iMovie projects for the Year. I then make sure they are all burned to DVD, then I delete those from my hard drive.
Using Image Capture to download images and video clips:
Open up Image Capture which is found in the Applications folder.
When it is opened, go to Image Capture/Preferences
Under the General button choose
Camera: When a camera is connected, open Image Capture.
The next time you connect your camera Image Capture will open.
In the window that opens you will see an Options button. Click on that button to set your options.
To find out more about Image Capture (it can do a lot more) Click on Help in the menu bar when Image Capture is open.
iPhoto: How to Change the "Open Automatically" Preference
If you find you can't change any of Image Captures preferences or can't access any drop down menus or they are greyed out, check to make sure Image Capture is loose in the Applications folder and not within a sub folder.

Baking a Layer with Camera Movement

Picking up on my adjacent post...
I'm trying to bake a layer in a project that has camera movement... we start on a man in closeup and then we zoom out to a long shot. But if I turn off the camera, the man is in closeup and stays that way. Baked and imported into the project, you'll have just the man's head when the camera pulls back in the live project.
With the camera on during baking, there's the move. But now import that into the project, and the camera motion is double applied -- the baking time and the live time.
How is this done?
Thanks very much for your help.

You can export the layer with the camera turned on, which will "bake in" the camera move, then when you bring it back in, put it in a 2D group so that it's not affected by the project camera.

Frustrated: No visible camera movement through 3d

Hope someone can help me, an AE beginner. Here's what I want to do and haven't been able to so far. I want to move one camera in a simple, slightly curving path through 3D and have it move towards and then past stationary still photos.
What I have so far.
One comp consisting of 5 layers. All layers set to 3D.
Top layer is a solid with fractal noise effect animated creating a fog/cloudy look (background) Z axis= 200
2nd layer is a still photo scaled pretty small. Appears as small rectangle in front view. Z axis= -- 200
3rd layer is a null object. (entitled camera master) This layer/cam follows simple straight motion path from Z axis = -- 400 to 450, all the way through
photo layer and solid (foggy/cloudy) layer.
4th layer is a null object entitled camera movement and its parent is "camera master" layer
5th layer is 35mm camera and its parent is "camera movement layer".
(got this camera set-up somewhere on internet.)
Basic set up is one camera with a 2D photo in front of it and a solid object (set at comp height/width) in the background. Space between each. Camera path is straight line through both to a spot behind 1st layer (foggy background).
When I preview/play this in custom view the camera moves right through and past both top layers which seems to be what I want...that is the camera moving towards the photo...it growing larger and sliding past camera and off frame and approaching background, going through it and out to nothing...but this does not happen....there is absolutely no visible movement on the photo's or background's part. Now i know I could animate it and put it on a motion path to scale up or move towards the cam. etc... but this is AE...can't I "dolly" a camera through/around stationary objects/layers?
Hope someone can help me here because I'm stuck.

Should setting the photo to 3D (in layers panel) make a difference? that's what i've done... Also the photo is scaled down smaller than comp size. Currently topmost layer (background solid) is visible beyond photo.

Distortion tools won't work and camera movements either...why?

2 questions:
Over the course of my work with motion I have somehow disabled the option of being able to control skew and all distortion effects with my mouse. I am having to do everything with control points now.
1. What did I do?
I've selected the tool and the object in the timeline and I just can't manipulate the object.
My other question involves the camera tool. I get no response from any of my camera effects and no control over any camera movement. It just remains a stagnant shot.
2. Wgat did I do?
Thank you for your help.

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: Back up and restore your iOS device with iCloud or iTunes
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem, make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
Unless you purchased the optional AppleCare+ extended warranty,
Apple will exchange your iPod for a refurbished one for $99 for 16 GB 5G and $149 for the other 4Gs. They do not fix yours.
Apple - iPod Repair price

Camera move stutter in motion

having a problem with rendered motion projects with an irregular stutter in camera moves in a couple of 1080i motion 5 projects, i have a key frame animated view point camera doing some relatively fast moves over 3d objects. the objects are PSD files, both images and PSD text. the moves are basically ease in, ease out, both horizontal and vertical.
it's not simply the stutter one gets with a credit crawl... i.e. too few frames over too fast a motion... rather it's inconsistent, every 6th frame or so, a small jump back or repeated frame. i have tried every export setting combination i can think of, best, normal, motion blur, frame blending, inderlaced, progressive adjusting the project shutter angle, etc. i'm exporting at pro res 4444. and the stutter is present there as well as when i transcode to .h264
i have the latest update of motion from the other day, ATI 5870 and 18Gb of ram on an 8 core mac pro, running os 10.8
any thoughts how i can get rid of this stutter? thanks!

thanks, so much for the reply! sadly i'd tried both to no effect. I had been using the mountain lion beta; not sure how or why it would have affected motion, but i just got the newest ML beta and preliminary results seem to promissing. i'll test it out with someo of the earlier projects and report back. thanks again!

Cannot transfer videos taken from my Canon camera(MOV files) to the iPad 4. They have previous with no problems at all. Is this an update issue?

Cannot transfer videos taken from my Canon camera(MOV files) to the iPad 4. They have previous with no problems at all. Is this an update issue? I tried to sync them over using iTunes last night but it says that they cannot be played on the device. But they have previously

1, you can't at the moment, though with iOS 5 in the Autumn, from http://www.apple.com/ios/ios5/features.html#photos :
Even organize your photos in albums — right on your device
2, by removing it from you synced from and re-syncing. Only photos taken with the iPad, copied to it via the camera connection kit, or saved from emails/websites etc can be deleted directly on the iPad (either via the trashcan icon in the top right corner if viewing the photo in full screen, or via the icon of the box with the arrow coming out of it in thumbnail view)
3, the location of the photos that you synced to the iPad should be listed on the iPad's Photos tab when connected to your computer's iTunes.
4, you can copy the photos from your iPad to your computer : http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4083 . You should also be able to delete them from the iPad as part of the transfer process to your computer, and it's then your choice whether to add them to your sync photo list so as to copy them back to the iPad. Copying them to your computer would allow you to organise them into folders and therefore be able to sync them back into separate albums.
5, I don't use Dropbox either. There are some third-party browser apps in the iTunes App Store that allow you to download pages so that you can view them when offline e.g. Atomic Web (the whole page is saved within Atomic Web, it doesn't place a photo into the Photos app)
6, deleting content should help. If you remove an app from your iPad then you also remove the content that it's got on the iPad - so if you then decide to reinstall it back onto the iPad then you will need to manually add back any content that you want in it. None of the Apple built-in apps (including Photos) can be removed from the iPad

Stuutering during cam movement

Hello,
I’m experiencing some problems with converting a movie
(DV PAL 16:9 25fps) to a flash movie. The problem especially
appears during camera movements like panning and tilting. During
these movements the movie starts to stutter/jump as if the camera
moves in a bumpy way.
This also appears with faster movements on screen.
I tried different compression settings but nothings seems to
help completely. Even the bitrate calculator didn’t help.
In the help files I found something about compression
problems during movements with interlaced video formats. Therefore
I tried different setups with deinterlacing, but this also
didn’t help. Even a progressive source file didn’t seem
to be a solution.
Does anyone know a solution for my problem?
Compression settings I used were from 400 kbps to 900 kbps
with a resolution of 420x236 25fps and 30fps. Both codec’s.
I hope someone has an answer for this problem.

After testing, testing and testing it seems to be a
hard/software problem witch only ocures at the office....
Proccesor speed can't be the problem...

Can digital camera movies (MPEGs) be downloaded to and played on Apple TV?

Can digital camera movies (MPEGs) be downloaded to and played on Apple TV? I know that it can play downloaded "real" movies, but what about movies made on digital cameras

Some cameras will record in mpeg4, however they may have unsupported audio formats or otherwise not fit the specifications required for the tv. In essence some cameras may produce video that will play directly on the tv.
If your files are mpeg4 and won't play, itunes will most likely convert them to the correct format (advanced/convert for Apple TV), if they are mpeg1, mpegstreamclip will convert them for you. If your files are mpeg2, mpegstreamclip will still do the job but you will need to install the Quicktime mpeg2 playback component ($20)

3D camera movements from 2D photo - alternative software?

Hi,
I would like to create videos from 2D photos that look like the images are 3D images.
This is an example of what i'm trying to achieve - note that I am not interested in the transitions, lens flare or other effects. Just the camera movements.
http://vimeo.com/7701467
I CAN do this in After Effects but since I am only looking to be able to make camera movements based on either a layered PSD file or multiple files I'm actually looking for an alternative to After Effects.
Talking to the Adobe people a couple of times they said that it could be done in Photoshop Extended but I've just finished testing v5 and I couldn't see how to do it. On the other hand they couldn't load the video linked above so they may not have understood the question.
So does anyone have any ideas of software that can do this, from Adobe or otherwise.
I don't own After Effects and I really don't want to have to buy it just for this.
I thought about asking on the Photoshop forum but I decided to ask here first since you guys may know of alternatives and also you also have just the one platform.
Thanks.

This is sometimes called the Kid Stays in the Picture effect. It involves separating foreground, middle ground, and background elements into different layers. You do this by duplicating the original layer then masking out the various elements and then cloning in or painting in the missing areas. For example, if you have a girl standing in front of a bench that's in a park you'll want to duplicate the layer 3 times, mask out everything but the girl from the top layer, mask out everything but the bench in the middle layer but paint in the bench where the girl is covering it, then paint out the girl and the bench from the background or bottom layer.
There is no one click solution. Once you have your layers then you can create the animation in any program that will create multi layered animations. This process isn't quick, it takes some fairly advanced Photoshop skills, and it takes the right kind of original photograph.
Google Kid stays in the Picture Effect and you'll find a half dozen detailed tutorials on the subject.

Matching up camera move

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