Medicine aluminum foil

Hi
i am new on illustrator and I have a question (maybe stupid question)
after the design of this maquette the green area(no text area) should be in the maquette??
also the b;lue lines or the pink dotted shoulb be in the design??
thanks a lot

This looks like a template defining the printable areas on some type of packaging label or application. I don't see any printing elements in this file only technically defined areas. You're leaving a lot to guess work on this file. I'm just guessing here but if the substrate is metallic and the print area are just squares It could be anything printing in these areas, or even an opaque white to give the metallic substrate a white paper look in some areas or a coating treatment to keep the foil from coming into direct contact with the contents of the package. There are no stupid questions, only details for production to vet in order to provide the desired finished product to the client. Your subject is Medicine Aluminum Foil which is a packaging product which I have never produced. Are you not understanding the legend and the areas described there in? I can say that the No Print Area (Green) is where the variable data printer does it's thing with a batch number and date.

Similar Messages

Sensing aluminum foil, counting laps

Good Afternoon,
I am a middle school teacher and some of my students are working with the NXT Mindstorms kit. Our task is to follow a black line around a course for 2 laps and stop on the start/finish line. We spoke with other schools and were told the best strategy would be to have the robot follow the line and count/ detect each time it passes the foil. When it has detected the foil the 2nd time it should stop.
Well, they have successfully gotten it to follow the line (forever) Their first idea was to time the robot for one lap, and run the motors long enough to complete 2 laps. This has proven a little inconsistent. So...
Our question is this: How do we get the light sensor to recognize and count a lap each time it senses the foil? They have played with the sensor and when on white paper it indicates a "reflective #" between 48-54. When the sensor is over the black line the "reflective #" is in the 30's; and when on the foil the sensor reads in the high 50s to low 60s. We can see on the programming screen that there is an input for count, but it is ghosted over and we cannot change anything. (we looked on the lego help pages, and there was something about a "data wire" but we did not know where or how to connect it.)
Any assistance you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
I apologize in advance if this not the forum for this type of question.
Thanks very much
Dave T

Hi,
I am far from an NXT expert, but here are two ideas.
1. When you open up the Light Sensor VI or Block, you notice at the bottom where you can set the thresholds? Have you thought of setting up a loop (or nested loops) that contains Greater Than and Less Than values that oyu have measured for the White Background, Black Line and Al. foil? It will take some thought on the part of your students, butI believe you can accomplis what you want this way.
2. GoTo the string in this forum entitled " Teaching LabVIEW to engineering students: is the NXT Toolkit recommended? " There is a link to Labs that you can download , Lab 5 goes into the light sensor.

Cinema HD bluetooth interrupt

My Cinema 30" is interrupting the bluetooth signal from my MBP. I think.
The problem is that whenever I connect the Cinema HD 30" the Magic Mouse lags and jerks, in other words, the mouse becomes totally useless.
I've posted this on the subject: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2556882&tstart=0
I have read that Mac Pro is/was causing interruption of the bluetooth signal because of the metal casing. I wonder if this is also the case for Cinema displays with aluminum enclosure?
Anybody else have this problem with Cinema HD aluminum enclosure?

You're idea of an external antenna would work, but it assumes the BT antenna are not integral to the printed circuit board and have instead some kind of antenna jack that can be plugged into. Then you'd have to find a wifi antenna with the right plug on it (wifi and BT are on the same spectrum, so the same antenna types can be used).
2.4 GHz can also be bounced off a mirror to pretty good affect. But you need a large-ish mirror, like a vanity mirror as might be found on a bathroom medicine cabinet. The mirror has to be outsized when compared with wavelength, so 18 inches would be sort of a minimum dimension to be considered for a mirror. But a mirror or two placed strategically at a 45º angle could work.
Assuming the desk or table is up against a wall, you could also try a big piece of aluminum foil on the back wall. Buy the widest roll you can find at the store. You wouldn't want to necessarily be looking at foil on the wall, but if it worked, you could put a poster or fabric or something like that over the foil.
Also, if everything is sitting on a table, you could put a big sheet of foil on the underside of the table to help confine the radio energy to the plane it's needed in. Maybe all silly ideas, but worth a try.

Did you know that if your phone is stolen, Find my Phone is useless?

Lessons from my lost iPhone. Despite having a pin to unlock the iPhone, you can simply power off the phone with a long press of the power button. Which means that if your phone is stolen and the thief is smart enough to turn it off (is there one who isn't?), 'Find my phone' is virtually useless!
Also, you can use Siri on a locked phone to make phone calls and send messages. There are also enough tips available on the internet that show you how to use Siri to unlock the phone, making all your photos, emails and other information available to anyone keen enough to find it.
I've written to Apple to tell them that a phone lock should really do what it says - LOCK the phone! If you own an iPhone and would like the same please write to Apple at http://www.apple.com/feedback/iphone.html
Perhaps when enough people write they'll actually take some notice!

This subject is discussed fairly frequently. Find my iPhone is not useful unless a particularly ignorant thief takes it. It's primary use is to find lost phones, not stolen. Requiring a passcode to turn it off eliminates one way a thief can disable Find my iPhone, but it isn't the only one, and probably isn't the one used by most professional thieves. Among other ways to disable Find my iPhone:
Remove the SIM
Wrap in aluminum foil
Drop in a shoplifter's bag or backpack with its Faraday shield (copper mesh or foil lining)
Restore the phone from DFU mode
The Activation Lock feature, which prevents a stolen phone from ever being used again, except by the rightful owner, is the more valuable deterrent against theft. Once word gets around that a stolen iPhone is useless the market value of stolen phones will drop precipitously, and thieves will switch to stealing Android phones.

Multiple-point Hardware And Software Failures in Two, Separate and Not-connected Computers At The Same Time...

A few days ago, I was working on a restoration of a 100-years-or-so-old Calculus book on one of my Linux based computers, while my other computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system was serving as Broadcast TV receiver with its USB HDTV tuner
in the afternoon. The weather in Los Angeles was summer-like in November, with clear skies and 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. All of a sudden, my Linux based computer halted in the middle of the processing it had performed hundreds of times
before in hotter days. It would not restart. The entire boot block of the disk seemed to have been garbled. This did not seem even feasible at all, so I decided to shut its power off for a while. It came back up after a while,
and everything looked normal. Then, it did the same thing again. I decided to open its cover and check on its multiple fans as there was nothing else that could go wrong.
I then noticed that the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating system which had been receiving the broadcast TV, was displaying a freshly-booted log-in screen. It had "Blue-screened" while I was working on the other computer
across the large room. This again did not seem any feasible as there had been utterly no connection between these two computers. Even the AC power line circuit was different. Furthermore, this computer had the most extensive air-cooling system
I had built to have it work through 107 degree Fahrenheit temperatures indoors. Anyway, I logged back in and started the broadcast TV reception again. Sure enough, after a while it "blue-screened" one more time...
I went back to the Linux-based computer and found all of its fans operating, but with somewhat hotter disk drives. The problem was that in hotter days, the same computer had cooler disk drives with nothing different. I concluded that somehow
the 80 mm fan mounted in the front side of the case, with its side with rotating blades clamped on the perforated part of the steel case serving as the fan grill, was starting up fine. But, as the time passed the spring-loaded rotating hub was slowly
drawn toward the perforated steel case by two means: The partial vacuum formed by the suction generated by the blades of the fan, and by the magnetic attraction of the rotating hub with electro-magnets in it to the partially magnetized, perforated steel casing.
The first effect was always there, so it was not the real cause, but once something else came along, it really helped the latter. The hub was slowly drawn to the perforated steel casing due to magnetic attraction, with the holes in the casing
inducing a huge air-drag on the hub blades as there was no by-pass around to supply the extra-air needed to reduce the partial vacuum. In addition, the rotating hub with the electro-magnets now was very close to the conducting metal surface and the induced
eddy-currents in the metal by the moving electro-magnets had added even more drag on the rotating hub, causing it to come nearly to a halt. The disk drive electronics was heating up and was causing DMA access faults which in turn caused the Linux kernel
to panic and halt.
Well, this was nearly unbelievable, but true... I had not brought any magnets into the room and I still do not know how the computer case got magnetized. It has been working at the same location for years. The solution was to move the fan
away from the perforated steel casing a little so that some air could come in through the gaps on the sides of the fan (hence supplying a by-pass), reducing the partial vacuum in front of the fan. This kept the rotating hub far enough away to prevent
the massive induced eddy-current drag from slowing the fan down to a halt. The computer now works perfectly with the very same fan as it has had been doing for years.
The real solution is to saw the perforated part of the steel casing in front of the fan away, and to replace it with a better fan grill. The best fan grill material I have found is the finely perforated, thin, black aluminum sheet that is usually
used as a car audio speaker grill. In fact, I use these in my Microsoft Windows Vista based computer. The fans are quieter, with more air flow. It also keeps dust away and you can brush the collected dust off easily.
The next problem was the halting of the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system with a blue-screen. The fans in it could not be the cause of this, as it had already had the best improvements I could put in it, with even
externally powered fans that did not load the computer power supply. And, all of the fans were working well. In the meantime, the Microsoft November 2014 updates for the Microsoft Windows Vista came out, and as usual I told the computer to
load and to implement them. Sure enough, the computer again "blue-screened" in the middle of the update procedure.
That was somewhat too much, but there was nothing else I could do other than to debug it. I had not changed anything in the computer and its power supply, completely internally updated by myself a few years ago, was working perfectly. Whatever
was causing it was not in the hardware. It was not in the November 2014 software updates either as it "blue-screened" before those were announced. I brought the computer back up after several disk and other software checks and after the
completion of the updates, I gingerly turned the network modem on. I then sent the reports on the six failures (three "blue-screen" type failures and three "Anti-malware Executable" failures) to Microsoft with all of details
requested using the Microsoft Windows Vista problem reporting system. Within minutes, the Microsoft came up with a diagnosis that the USB driver code in the system had a serious bug. I had not changed this code in years. It suggested that
I should use the "Microsoft Fix-It" for this problem and it pointed to a link to download it. I did download it. It ran and the "blue-screen" problem just went away, as if it had never been there...
-- Yekta

I ordered the capacitors on Friday and they arrived on Monday, November 17, 2014. I removed the motherboard from the machine, by removing all PCI and AGP boards, drive and fan connectors and the computer power supply first. The motherboard then
simply unbolted from the case and came out with the CPU fan assembly still attached.
I wrapped the solder side of the motherboard with aluminum foil and set up a work place with the aluminum foil under the motherboard and myself electrically well grounded. Here came another surprise: There were four more capacitors of the same
kind just behind the CPU fan assembly and their tops were also deformed with one of them leaking the electrolyte inside from the the top. Luckily, I had ordered more than two capacitors to get the quantity discount and the lower rate of shipping.
I do use them in other circuits I occasionally build.
Technically, the only thing one needed to do was to unsolder the six old capacitors from the motherboard and to solder six new ones in in their place with the correct polarities. However, due to fact that the capacitors span the 3.3 V power plane and
the ground plane in the multi-layer motherboard, it is nearly impossible to unsolder these capacitors using regular, fine-tip soldering irons. The thick copper of the power and the ground planes carry the soldering iron heat away very fast, preventing
the solder from melting quickly. Continuous application of heat at this point will simply burn the internal insulating epoxy layers and cause shorts inside the motherboard which are impossible to fix in any reasonable amount of time.
The only reasonable way to remove these capacitors was to dismantle the capacitors from the top leaving their already soldered leads in place. The new capacitors were then tack soldered to these stubs using lead-free, hard solder. However, the
CPU fan assembly and the CPU itself had to be removed from the board to be able to work on these capacitors.
To dismantle the capacitors from the top, I first drilled small holes at the tops of the capacitors at the intersections of the indentations using the tip of a hobbyist's knife. I then used needle nosed pliers to peel back the triangular sections
of aluminum from the center at the tops to their bases at the top edges of the capacitors. Next, I removed the plastic layers covering the outside of the capacitors by scoring the plastic layers first from the bottom to the top using the tip of
the hobbyist's knife and peeling the plastic layers off starting at the cut. The following step was to cut the aluminum cans of the capacitors from the top to the bottom using the hobbyist's knife like a can opener. One could not use a saw like
tool here to accomplish the feat as the saws generated very fine metal chips which were very hard to remove and were certain to cause shorts in the densely populated mother board. The cans were then peeled off the rest of the capacitors starting from
the top at the cuts using needle nose pliers, revealing the spiral-wound metal-paper layers of the capacitors.
The wound layers of the capacitors were peeled off layer by layer by cutting into the layers from the top to the bottom, leaving only the two aluminum electrodes which were crimped and soldered to the leads of the capacitors. The picture below shows
the six capacitors with one of them dismantled (left) and with all of them dismantled (right):
The black disks below the aluminum electrodes are the rubber plugs covering the bottoms of the capacitors. The rubber plugs were then cut in half using the hobbyist's knife and removed using the needle nose pliers. It was not possible to
solder to the aluminum electrodes, so these were trimmed at the point they were crimped on the leads of the capacitors, leaving only the stubs of the capacitors' leads soldered to the motherboard.
The new capacitors with suitably trimmed leads were then soldered to these stubs with the correct polarities using lead-free, hard solder. The capacitors were lightly bonded together using a flexible glue to prevent them from moving. The picture
below shows the new capacitors as installed into the motherboard:
I then assembled everything back together and turned the computer on. The BIOS complained on the boot screen that the CPU was out of its socket and it needed to be reset. I set BIOS parameters correctly to their original values. The computer
came up and worked without any problems. I typed this message on my newly repaired computer running the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system.
By the way, the manufacturing date on the motherboard is 09/12/2002 and the CPU is a Socket-478, 2.4 GHz, Intel Pentium-4.
-- Yekta

Been losing connection for magic mouse and wireless keyboard

When I have my MBP running Mavericks in clamshell mode, I lose connections to both magic mouse and apple wireless keyboard in clamshell mode. I've tried all the PRAM SCM, aluminum foil and paper tricks. What I then did was test what happens when I leave the MBP open rather than in clamshell mode and it appears to avoid losing connection, at least that is what I've concluded with Mavericks for now..... anyone else able to replicate this? Having to leave the MBP open is not ideal.

Barry, thanks, still not working. I've tried every thing I can think of or have read, what I'm concluding is that there is either a problem with Mavericks or something has changed on how bluetooth works in Mavericks. Did not have this problem for the last 4 years. I can reproduce the problem when I close the laptop. I had the Bluetooth and wireless card checked out and replaced about 3 weeks ago. Problem has continued.

Loaded 3.6.3 on Mac with 10.5.8 - no longer get printer recognition. Pinter is there with metwork and prints with Windows XPPro

using mac10.5.8, since loading 3.6.3 can no longer access printer. Even without ff running. Pinter is a network unit that works with Windows fine. Can't even reload printer driver.
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== First time FF 3.6.3 loaded

It may tell me that you are seeing the "popular" complaint about the intermittent MM behavior. Do google searches for "skipping magic mouse" or similar wording and you will get lots of hits.
One suggestion which some have claimed works is to stick a little ball of aluminum foil between the batteries and their contacts. The theory behind this is that not all batteries are created equal in the sense that the positive contact is slightly higher in some makes and not the others and that the ones with a shorter contact actually break contact due to the battery moving slightly in its compartment. So the al foil is to take up the gap.
I personally cannot say this theory is valid one way or another. I use rechargeable Sanyo Eneloops and they seem ok.

IPhone 5 drops calls as fast as my confidence in Verizon

I've been a happy Verizon wireless subscriber for roughly the past 7 years. I've always had LG flip phones, and in that time have had perhaps 2 dropped calls. In July 2013, I upgraded to an Apple iPhone 5 16GB in black. As each day passes, and my iPhone 5 drops more and more calls, my regret about the poor choice I made in accepting Verizon's offer to upgrade, exponentially increases.
I live in the same home as I did with all of my LG flip phones that performed flawlessly on the Verizon Network. Never was there a dropped phone call. I transmitted a great deal of data via text and picture messaging with out any significant or frequent slowdowns in speed. I never had problems in the timely receipt of my incoming texts. When I turn on either of my old LG phones and place them next to my Apple iPhone 5, they all match, showing 2 or 3 bars of service and LTE.
Conversely, my regrettable, disappointing, and obviously flawed Apple iPhone 5 does outperform all others when it comes to call dropping dependability. I can count on my iPhone to drop 100% of the incoming and outgoing calls, 100% of the time in my bedroom and in my home office. The rest of my home is about a 70/30 crap shoot in favor of it eventually dropping the call where none were ever dropped in the prior 7 years of my Verizon service using LG phones. People will send me text messages over the span of hours, or a day, and they appear to stack up somewhere until I receive an incoming phone call which pushes all of them through at the same moment as the phone begins to ring. Never had that problem before. People will phone me, and I never hear my phone ring or receive a missed call notification. Hours later my iPhone will suddenly go off with the voice mail notification, all the while between showing 2 or 3 bars of reception when I check the phone wondering why expected calls haven't called me, yet. Short of having to walk outside, trying to have a voice conversation on my iPhone 5 reminds me of the old days, and the family having to get into those awkward "TV viewing positions" and holding old style TV antennas and aluminum foil just to get a favorite station to come in better. Thanks to my Apple iPhone 5, I have to do the same "assume the position" when trying to send any picture or large data files.
No, I do not have a case on, or around my phone.
Yes, I keep my iPhone 5 in the same indoor locations that worked well for LG, and have looked for other "convenient" places to locate them for potentially better reception, with no luck.
I am located in zip code 98663.
The 4G coverage map indicates my location is deep within Verizon's "supposed" coverage area.
I've done the recent IOS 7.0.4 software upgrade, and I think it got worse afterwards, if possible.
All 3 roaming functions are enabled.
I've tested the device in multiple places in and out of the house. It does NOT drop calls outside and data is faster, HOWEVER the iPhone continues to register the same 2 or 3 bars of reception outside as it does inside, including LTE.
I do not power cycle daily, but I do power cycle often.
I have tried resetting the Network Settings in the past.
When others are in my home and are serviced by Sprint and AT&T and others, I can use their non-Apple, non-Verizon, phones, and have ZERO DROPPED CALLS indoors.
I've been told I need one of those $250 network extenders. HAHAHAHA!!! Never had one problem in 7 years in the same house on the Verizon wireless network prior to my poor decision to accept Verizon's upgrade offer. Why, exactly, is it my responsibility to pay $250 to fix a problem that has clearly resulted from either a phone that is lacking in quality that Verizon (ironically?) "upgraded" me to into, a wireless network that is inadequately designed in my area to be compatible with some of the products Verizon sells, or both.
This whole nightmare has severely diminished my confidence in Verizon's commitments to both quality and customer care. I sincerely hope that this plea for help from Verizon will bring an acceptable resolution and restoration of my confidence that Verizon is still willing to defend it's once good reputation, and is the wireless provider that I should be proud to be a member of, for the rest of my life. Hate to jump ship, but if there is no loyalty towards customers, why stay?
Thank you.

KinquanaH_VZw:
Thank you for the reply to my concerns.
I have not had a trouble ticket created over this problem. Since the iPhone 5 continuously drops calls, I have not tried to call *611 from it due to the long hold times. Early on, I made several attempts from my land line to call the 800-922-0204 number for customer service. After holding for up to 20 minutes on different days of the week and at different times of the day and never reaching an agent I became frustrated and chose to live with the problem, realizing that Verizon would be of no help to me. When I finally became disgusted with the call dropping, and related poor reception issues, I decided to research the problem, read what others had experienced, how they coped, what problems they specifically reported, how they communicated their problems, how they were treated by Verizon, and finally what solutions were offered by Verizon, and the ability of those solutions to improve the problem to the satisfaction of the complaining/unhappy customers.
From what I was able to dig up, it appeared that replacing the iPhone was successful in satisfying the customers issues with call dropping less than 10% of the time. Statistically speaking, I felt that replacing one iPhone for another would be a waste of my time. Besides, if I can't get through to customer service on the phone, requesting a replacement is the least of my concerns.
You mention some other things that can affect service:
-Location of tower - Lived in same home for almost 50 years. Unless you moved the tower the day I activated my iPhone and deactivated my LG Chocolate (which received flawless reception in my home). I doubt that is the problem.
-Building structure - Again lived here for almost 50 years. It has not changed since the LG had flawless reception and the iPhone has been less than satisfactory.
-Weather - In the 4 years with the LG Chocolate we had about every type of weather that is typical for this region, and never a problem. In the 6 months I've had the iPhone, the weather here has been pretty consistent and good and there is no noticeable difference to the constant call dropping.
-Tower congestion - Admittedly there were consistent blocks of time Monday-Friday that I did notice the LG slow a bit on data transmission, and attributed it to tower congestion. However, even at minimal usage times, such as 2, or 3, or 4 AM, the iPhone still is quite reliable in it's ability to drop calls and transmit data slowly.
In addition to the above things that can affect service, please keep this in mind, I have friends with smart phones on other networks, specifically Sprint and At&T. When they visit my home, I am quite envious of their reception, even when putting the phones side by side in worst spots in my home, theirs outperform mine in every test I have asked them humor me by doing. Other friends with Verizon smart phones that are not Apple products, receive better phone and data service/reception in my house than I do, but not as good as those with other providers.
From the data I was able to research, customer complaints and resolutions, and comparisons of reception in my home before and after the iPhone and with other providers, I concluded this:
Were I someday able to get through to customer service, I would be willing to jump through the hoops, as I am now, so that you can verify and collect what ever technical data you need regarding this problem.
Ultimately, I would be offered the same choice, or two, as all others having the same problem with their iPhone as I am. Exchange it for another iPhone, which is unsuccessful about 90% of the time, and/or I should purchase at my own expense a network extender. If I, and others, had always had poor reception/service in my home, I would have no problem paying for one. Since the case is the other way around, I decided to be proactive about my feelings on having to purchase one, resulting in my plea for help on the message board.
I do apologize for the length of my message, but I wanted to try to cover all of the potential questions that would be posed to me in an effort to look for causes that would eliminate the iPhone or the signal quality provided by Verizon of any blame.
Anyway, I am happy to have you open a trouble ticket and to answer any questions that anyone needs to ask, and do what needs to be done to find a solution. If you were unable to locate my account through my user name or email address I will provide that information below so that you can get started. If there is anything that involves asking a lot of questions, I suggest it be done via email, as over the phone will probably even frustrate the technician or CSR who has to call me back 20 times to complete the questions due to call dropping.
I sincerely hope that you are able to find a mutually beneficial solution to this problem.
Thank you,
>>Personal information removed to comply with the Verizon Wireless Terms of Service<<
Message was edited by: Verizon Moderator

Wire Hanger out of the Headphone jack?

Think this will give my iPhone at least 1 or 2 bars? Maybe I should wrap it in aluminum foil...that won't take away from the looks at all, will it?
I will say, I have one heck of a iPod sitting here

I was with Verizon and it was flawless. I was under the impression that after 5+ years with Verizon's full bar service no matter where I was that cell phone coverage had greatly improved with technology...man was I wrong.
I thought Apple was strong enough to pick a partner they KNEW would work across the board. What kind of deal did Apple and AT&T make? Can you imagine the money? Think any of it went into improving the Network for one of the biggest Technology launches in history?
They could have had it all. Imagine if all the people on this forum jumped on iTunes, activated, got 4 bars and were happy? Of course there would be 1% of the people trying to plug the usb cable into their toasters but thats going to happen. Not a mass disappoint from the Apple faithful like this.
I sell Apple to everyone who will listen to me, now I have to tuck my tail between my legs and look the other way because my iPhone has been AT&T'ed into the ground

MacBook Pro: BC/XP works fine until I remove my optical drive

I have a mid-2009 MacBook Pro, and have replaced the internal drive with an OCZ Vertex 3. The good news is, after I made an impromptu RF shield around the cable and the drive itself out of aluminum foil, it works flawlessly at the full 3 gbps. And, after I spent literally 20 hours trying to figure out how to get it restored, I have finally restored my boot camp (XP SP3) partition to the Vertex 3 and it works flawlessly also. **** fast, too.
Everything's great, then, right? Well... not quite. I still would like to take my optical drive out of the computer and put my original hard drive in. However, as soon as I take my optical drive out (leaving the hard drive out of the equation entirely for now), XP stops booting, and just shows a black screen. I assume this is because device order is somehow screwed up; however, the boot.ini file says that I should be booting off of device 0, and I can't imagine the internal hard drive being anything other than device 0.
Please help. I feel like I'm so **** close to making this work.
(Oh, by the way: I suspect, from certain experiments that I did during those long 20 hours, that this same thing would happen if I installed this on the internal hard drive, too. So I don't think this is Vertex- or SSD-specific... just something that happens if you remove the optical drive from a XP Boot Camp installation on a MacBook Pro.)

You need to provide more info please. What's the exact error? What email client? Who's the email account through? When the last time your email worked without issue? Do you remember something changing right before it stopped working?

How to set a new SCSI number for a second drive?

How to set a new SCSI number for a second drive?
Walter

Walter,
This web site gives a good diagram:
http://www.hitachigst.com/hdd/support/dpes/dpesjum.htm
On a Quantum hard disk drive - they were the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) hard drive provider for Apple, you will see three or four pairs of pins on the green circuit board. They are labled:
AO . .
A1 . .
A2 . .
If no pins are connected, you have SCSI ID Zero This was the standard setting from the factory.
If you short out the pins beside AO .__. , you have designated SCSI ID One.
If you short out the pins beside A1 .__. , you have designated SCSI ID Two.
If you short out the pins beside A2 .__. , you have designated SCSI ID Four.
These values can be added together to get other SCSI IDs. If you have a jumper beside AO AND A1, that will add up to SCSI ID Three.
Some of the quantum drives used tiny black plastic jumpers with tiny metal contacts. I have yet to find a store that sells the tiny ones. I get my larger jumpers from old PC motherboards that are being thrown away. A small piece of aluminum foil will work as a jumper in a pinch. Just make sure it soed not fall off and short something else out!
Jim
PS
CD-ROM drives are set at the factory as ID 3. Internal drives are set at ID 0. I set my external SCSI drive at SCSI 1 so it does not conflict with the internal drive. Internal Zip drives are set at ID 5 and external Zip drives let you choose between 5 and 6. I set my burners at ID 4. Come up with a master plan for your devices like scanners and burners. Apple System Profiler will give you info on the device ID. If the computer fails to boot, turn off all but one SCSI device and make sure of its ID. Then check each subsequent device by powering up only one device at a time while booting from a CD at ID #3.

HT4995 How to find iphone 4s, that was stolen?

How to find iphone 4s, that was stolen? Is it real to see location of it?

You can see its location if all of the following are true:
- You enabled Find my iPhone on the phone before it disappeared
- You set up an iCloud account
- The thief did not turn the phone off, remove the SIM, restore the phone or wrap it in aluminum foil
- The phone has cellular data coverage
If you enabled Find my iPhone just log in to iCloud and click the Find my iPhone icon.

Wireless keyboard will not enter discoverable mode

Hi, Changed the batteries on my bluetooth apple keyboard and now the keyboard won't pair with the iMac; nor will it enter "discoverable" mode (when I press the keyboard power button the keyboard light illuminates green for about a second and then goes dim.)

Anyone come up with a solution? I looked at the other closely related issues where the green light wouldn't come up and they suggested using aluminum foil. I tried that and it didn'tdo the trick.
I'd hate to have to buy a new keyboard, even though this one is a few years old, it worked great until now.

Condition records for Material

Hi,
We have made a systems like Package material means We have one material with item category ZBOM which is the main material and for this material we have made BOM with different line items when we enter package material in VA01 system automatically selecting all the BOM of that material and all are coming in VA01 , but the price which we have maintain in VK11 is as per sales org./customer/ship toparty/price group /material ,
problem is that we are not able to maintain diffrent price according to diffrenet header material for same customer
Customer 1 : Header material   : ABC    Cat. ZBOM having 3 ITEMS CAt. TAN
Customer 1" Header material : XYZ      CAT. aZBOM having 4 items , 3 items are same as in ABC AND FOURTH ITEMS IS DIFFRENT ,
HERE WE WANT TO MAINTAIN THE CONDITION RECORD
   CUSTOMER/ SHIP TO PARTY / HEADER MATERIAL / MATERIAL.
how to do it as only one material filed can be select in table             .
regards,
zafar

hi zafar
Though its not clear from your question whether your materials in BOM share same grouping or not,I can suggest u 2 alternatives
1. Use a material pricing group (KONDM) for each group of materials ,say aluminum foil ,plastic containers ,Cartoons etc.
And then create access sequence for a special discount surcharge condition in pricing using this field. e.g. Sales Org >>Dist.ch>;.material pricing group.
Add this to appropriate step in pricing procedure.
2. If you can not identify and group materials in this way ,u can try using item category which will differentiate materials used as header and item at sales order level.
For this u ahve to take help of ABAP and add item category to your field catalogue and then use this filed in access sequence.or use to trigger pricing through routine.
I hope this will solve the issue.
Regards
Mandar

Threading and Re-Use of buffers Using Call By Reference node (Duct Tape required)

I have been trying to get the following information into the public domain for years and now that I have the answers, I will share with those that may be interested.
Warning!
Wrap your head in duct tape before reading just for safety sakes.
My two questions have been;
1) can LV Re-use the buffers of the calling VI when using VI Serve Call by reference?
2) Is the UI thread used when using Call by reference?
1. When calling a VI using the call by reference node, does the data going into the connector pane of the node get copied, or is it in-line as it would be with a properly set up subVI?
Short answer: It is somewhere in-between.
Long answer:
The compiler doesn't know what VI will be called, but it does have a hint:
the reference wired into the Call By Reference node. It uses that to get the "Prototype" for the call. So for the best performance, use a prototype that has the same "in-placeness characteristics" as the called VI. That being said, users don't know what the "in-placeness characteristics" are.
Before I go into the details, I should say that the overhead of these copies shouldn't matter much unless it is a large data structure (an array with a lot of elements, or a cluster/class with many fields or containing large arrays etc.).
Example 1:
If the prototype does not modify the data then the compiler assumes that the Call By Reference node will not modify the data. However at run-time a check is made to see if the actual called VI will modify the data. If so, then a copy is made and passed in so that the original data can remain unmodified.
Example 2:
If the prototype contains an input that is wired through to an output in such a way that both the input and output terminals can use the same memory buffer, but at run-time a check determines that the actual called VI's input and output do not share a buffer, then a copy will be made from the actual call's output to the original VIs (combined input and output) buffer.
I should also mention that even with this "attempt to agree with the prototype" behavior, it's not always possible to get as good performance as a regular SubVI call. For instance if you have a situation where the prototype does not modify the data and passes it through to an output then the compiler must assume that the data is modified (because as in example 2, there exist VIs that may modify it even if the actual VI called does not).
And there are some caveats:
1) This "using a prototype" behavior was new to 2009. Before that we used a more naive way of passing data that assumed all inputs will be modified and no outputs share a buffer with an input.
2) This behavior is subject to change in future versions, if we find further optimizations.
3) This behavior is the same as we use for dynamic dispatch VIs (when using LV classes)
4) If you want to create a VI only to be used as a prototype, then you can use features of the In-Place Element Structure to control the "in-placeness characteristics" Namely the In/Out Element border nodes, the "Mark as modifier" feature of the border nodes (note the pencil icon on the In Element), and the Always Copy node.
5) The prototype is only the first reference ever wired into the Call By Reference node. So if you do make a new prototype VI, you can't just make a reference out of it to wire to the Call By Reference node. I suggest deleting the Call By Reference node and dropping a new one.
6) For remote calls, we always have to "make copies" by passing data over a network.
I hope this helps, if you want any further information/clarification, then feel free to ask.
2. Does the call by reference node execute in the UI thread? If the call is being made by a remote machine over ethernet, which thread does the host (the machine that makes the call by reference) execute on and which thread does the target (the machine that contains the VI file) execute on?
In the local case, the Call by Reference node does not require the UI thread and can run in whatever thread the VI wants to execute in.
When calling a remote VI, the Call by Reference node uses the UI thread (detailed below) on both the client and on the server.
The client uses the UI thread to send the call request to the server and then again when the response comes back. The UI thread is not blocked during the time in between.
The server receives the TCP message in the UI thread and then starts the call in the UI thread. The server also uses the UI thread to send the response back to the client. The UI thread is not blocked on the server during the execution of the VI.
I hope people find this when they need it!
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I never use duct tape. I wrap my head in aluminum foil and thus get much better shielding from the aliens trying to tap my mind.
Also easier to remove later, but why risk taking it off??
LabVIEW Champion . Do more with less code and in less time .

Medicine aluminum foil

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