My 2011 macbook pro won't church or turn on connected to mains??

my 2011 macbook pro won't church or turn on connected to mains?? help

I went through the same issue with my 17" 2009 macbook pro. No luck. I even went to the extraordinary effort to crack open the case and remove battery and power up to make sure it was not a battery issue. [Well, you disconnect the cable, no need to physically remove the battery]
(Note, I verified this was safe because I found the official apple support manual and this was listed as one of the diagnostic steps to determine if the battery died). -- don't do this unless you know proper anti-static procedures and have the right tools for the job.
But point of this response is I do have good news. I took it to the apple store today, and the genius bar tech told me about a flat rate repair for $310.00. He said as long as I didn't damage anything like spilling a coke on it, then this flat rate price covers replacing logic board, battery, even both if need be. Heck, buying a replacement logic board, which is worst case scenario costs more than twice this amount.
P.S. there are also two hardware SMC reset pins (labeled SMC reset) on the motherboard, but I did not manually short them to force a hardware reset even though I saw a web hit explaining I should do this. Reason is that this was not mentioned in the apple service manual, and since I was going to the apple store anyway in hopes it was just a battery then I wasn't going to risk doing something that wasn't documented in the official support manual. So personally, I wouldn't try that unless you don't have the $310 for a sure thing repair.
Bottom line, I'm tickeled to death that Apple has a $310 all-inclusive deal. The 800 number for apple tech support person said the motherboard will cost around $800 and he wasn't aware of any special "deals".

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Late 2011 Macbook Pro won't sleep!

So I purchased a late 2011 macbook pro brand new from an apple store 3 weeks ago. Everything seemed well at first (except for a wake issue I had... odd)
Anyways... I started noticing that my notebook wasnt going to sleep, so I adjusted the power settings to sleep after 1 minute...
Sometimes the laptop will sleep after 20 minutes or more... sometimes it won't sleep at all (on all night!)
I'm wondering what the heck is going on? I tried re-installing Lion and using migration assistant to bring all my files back... no dice. same symptom.
-I've re-installed Lion
-I've tried SMC and PRAM resets
-I've tried "pmset -g assertions" and see no conflicts
-I've tried "pmset -g" and see nothing odd
-I've tried clicking / unclicking all the "sharing" settings
-I've made sure ALL applications are closed
-pmset -g log returns a few "slowresponses" but nothing too crazy (200ms)
-system log returns some odd "wake for GIGE (network)" responses while im trying to make it sleep.
-I deleted all printers /ques
The system WILL sleep if i manually click "sleep" or use the power button.
The system WILL sleep if i unplug the power cable and close the lid.
I have a 2nd display using a thunderbolt to DVI adapter... but unplugging this seems to have no effect.
What am I missing? could this be a logic board issue on a brand new mac? I'm lost! any suggestsion would help!

I may have solved this -- maybe -- by reinstalling Mavericks. Two days after the re-install (which was easy), the sleep function seems to be working properly.

2011 MacBook Pro won't sleep

I've got a late 2011 MacBook Pro 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7, 8GB 1333 Mhz DDR3. Pretty much fresh out of the box. It's running the latest version of Lion. In the last few days it won't go to sleep (for at least 5 minutes) when I close the lid. I've had to shut down 3 times to move the computer. What's up??

I may have solved this -- maybe -- by reinstalling Mavericks. Two days after the re-install (which was easy), the sleep function seems to be working properly.

2011s MacBook Pro won't install Yosemite neither reboot or boot into recovery mode.

Hello everyone, I've searched all around the web and didn't find a solution.
Sorry about my english, btw, I'm from Brasil lol!
I have a 2011s MacBook Pro, used to run Snow Leopard until 2 days ago, when I downloaded Yosemite and restarted the computer to run the installation.
During the process, it stopped at 22%, and said: FILE SYSTEM VERIFY OR REPAIR FAILED.
I tried to reboot on Macintosh HD as usual, but it's not possible, I can't unmount the HD to repair it, can't erase it and I'm a little desperate.
I have a good backup of important files on an external drive, so the best solution for me would be to format the HD again, with the Yosemite image which appears to be running at startup.
Command+ anything at startup doesn't work, probably because the Yosemite install is trying to run...
Any suggestions???
Thank you!

Hey Vince,
I have the same or similar issue. Please forgive my English, as I attended American Public schools
So last night, my MacBook Pro told me hey you want to download this free and amazing new OS called Yosemite?
(I'm adding to your post to hopefully grab more attention and then maybe grab a solution from someone out there..)
I thought yea, no, maybe, okay it's free, they say it is amazing-- why not?!?
So I downloaded and clicked okay to restart and install the new OS.......but it won't install the OS and I get stuck here on this screen.
I have tried restarting about 10 ties. I have tried quitting the install but it won't allow me to boot from Mac HD or my time capsule HD. I tried going into the menu options above but it won't let me repair or reboot or anything to get my MacBook to work again.
It is pretty frustrating. I went from having a working MacBook Pro to having a nightlight.
Vince- if you get a solution or a fix, Please let me know.
Thanks
john

2011 Macbook Pro won't detect my USB 3 external drive

I've got a late 2011 MacBook Pro, running OSX Yosemite with all available updates installed.
I recently purchased a 1TB USB 3.0 (USB 2.0 backwards compatible) external hard drive (Seagate) to use for Time Machine backups.
Quite often when I connect the drive to my Mac it doesn't get picked up - i.e. it doesn't appear in Finder or Disk Utility. The drive does get power each time (you can hear it if you put your ear close enough), however the small light on the drive doesn't come on when the problem occurs.
If I unplug it and then plug it back in it sometimes picks it up - often I have to restart a few times for it get picked up.
Other times it connects first time without any problems at all, which is strange!
It was doing this before upgrading from OSX Mavericks to OSX Yosemite.
My USB2.0 500GB external drive connects and appears in Finder without any problems at all.
I've performed the following troubleshooting steps:
- Connected the drive to different USB ports (no change)
- Tested the drive on various Windows workstations (works fine every time)
- Tested with different USB 3.0 cables (no change)
- Formatted the drive (no change)
- Tried different USB3.0 drives (same problem occurs)
I'm not really sure what else to try. You can't seem to get just USB2.0 drives any more in the UK (not 1TB or greater).
Has anyone else had problems?

USB Ports can sometimes be funny like that. If you haven't already, these are some little things you can try:
- First things first, unplug all your usb devices. Try plugging a device that you're sure works on your MBPR over EACH of the usb ports (just to check if they're both working correctly & supplying power on the mac itself).
- Check the USB cable's A plug (the end that connects to the mac) and make sure both the contacts are clean, and that the crevass is free from dirt/lint buildup, as it can interfere with a proper connection. (This can happen if you store cables in cases or bags).
- Sometimes easing the USB plug slightly out from the computer may help mount certain devices. If it DOES mount (abruptly) after this, then see item above on making sure your cable is clean, or swap out usb cable as it may not be working properly & try again with a new cable.
- Lastly, some devices may need a firmware update to even connect, as with the cases of the Lexar USB3.0 Card Readers and some Seagate USB HD's some folks here are experiencing with their Retinas.
Here's another thread that may also be useful concerning an external Toshiba Canvio HD.
It's not much, I know, but hope this helps, if a little.

15" 2011 Macbook Pro Won't start

Hello All
My 2011 macbook pro will not start up. Pressing the power button, the startup chime sounds very softly. The in a while chimes again, then in a while chimes again, etc etc. All the while the screen is black. I have seen the flicker of grey as I push the power button, but it was very feint and only a flicker.
I've done the PRAM thing. I've done the shift key thing. I've done the option key thing.
Nothing has worked.
I have been with Apple for a lot of years, and I'm very close to giving them the flick.
Anyone got any ideas about how to resolve this? It would be honestly appreciated.

There is a recall on this model:
Apple Recall:
https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro-videoissues/
Run your serial number there. You should be in the recall pool.
Especially since:
"No video on the computer screen (or external display) even though the computer is on"

My 17", early 2011 MacBook Pro won't turn off..

I select "Shut Down", then the actual "Shut Down" button on the dialog, the screen goes to light grey (as usual) but it never actually turns off. I have to press the physical on/off button for 6+ seconds to get the machine to actually go quiet.
I have OS X Version 10.9.1 installed and everything is up-to-date. This started a few days ago. When restarting (which I tend to do twice a day on average not liking to leave any machine running unnecessarily) I get the message "You shut down your computer because of a problem" and asks if I want to open applications that were open before etc. Several times I have tried using "Force Quit" before starting the shut down procedure to ensure that NO applications were active apart from Finder but to no avail.
Is there maybe a Preference file I should delete? Anything else I should look for? Some log file somewhere that might point me in a useful direction...?
Many thanks in advance for any help, Brian.

Panic's over - this https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964 took care of it after a couple of attempts.

15" macbook pro won't charge or turn on

I have a 15" Mac Bookpro that is a few years old.It had a slight charge when I left 6 days ago. It will not turn on and the charger light does not come on green or red.The battery life indicator lights up with one dot when I plugI have a 15" Mac Bookpro that is a few years old.It had a slight charge when I left 6 days ago. It will not turn on and the charger light does not come on green or red.The battery life indicator lights up with one dot when I plug and unplug the new style charger. I have tried several chargers and none seem to work.

if the battery can be removed from your mac do the following to perform the SMC reset:
remove the battery from the macbook
remove the power cord from it
hold down the power button on the mac for 5 seconds
put the battery back in and plug back in and see if it will start up, if not you need to get a new battery for the macbook

MacBook Pro won't start at all - clicking noise with black screen

Early 2011 MacBook Pro won't start: makes clicking noise after power button is held down, but no screen movement and after click, sounds like computer just stops working. Already did a SMC reset, and undid battery to try to run on charger power only. Same result every time. Also, my Apple Care expired 3 days ago. A few weeks ago had to repair a disk using Disk Utility because there was a discrepancy between how much storage was in the drive versus how much was actually being used.

You likely have the problem that many of us 15" and 17" 2011 models are having: a faulty soldering GPU and as discussed here -> https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4766577?tstart=0. It usually, but not always, beings with screen glitches and then gets to the point where the machine will simply not boot.
It's ashamed that you're not longer under AppleCare which would have, at least, got you a new logic board. A new logic board, however, doesn't usually fix the situation - only a BGA Reballing of the GPU seems to have long-lasting fixes.
Read through a few the articles (not all of them!) and make the decision yourself - and then make the decision about whom your going to contact.
Good luck,
Clinton
MacBook Pro (15-inch Late 2011), OS Mavericks 10.9.4, 16GB Crucial RAM, Crucial M500 960GB SSD, 27” Apple Thunderbolt Display

Macbook Pro won't sleep when lid open

My 2011 Macbook Pro won't go to sleep if I leave the lid open. I have checked System Preferences>Energy Saver and the display/computer sleep is set to 10 min for both Battery and Power Adapter settings. Even if I close all the applications down, my computer will still not go to sleep. The battery just gets completely drained if I forget to close the lid. Help?

1/31/13 9:44:10 PM PST
Assertion status system-wide:
   PreventUserIdleDisplaySleep             0
   CPUBoundAssertion                       0
   DisableInflow                           0
   ChargeInhibit                           0
   PreventSystemSleep                      0
   PreventUserIdleSystemSleep              0
   ExternalMedia                           0
   DisableLowPowerBatteryWarnings          0
   EnableIdleSleep                         1
   NoRealPowerSources_debug                0
   UserIsActive                            0
   ApplePushServiceTask                    0
Kernel Assertions: None

HT201343 I have an Early 2011 MacBook Pro from Early 2011 that is a 13-inch model... why won't it support airplay? why can't I get a software update to allow it to work?

I have an Early 2011 MacBook Pro from Early 2011 that is a 13-inch model... why won't it support airplay? why can't I get a software update to allow it to work?

About AirPlay and Airplay Mirroring
AirPlay Mirroring requires a second-generation Apple TV or later, and is supported on the following Mac models: iMac (Mid 2011 or newer), Mac mini (Mid 2011 or newer), MacBook Air (Mid 2011 or newer), and MacBook Pro (Early 2011 or newer). For non-qualifying Macs you can try using Air Parrot.
Several Apple Articles Regarding AirPlay
Apple TV (2nd and 3rd gen)- How to use AirPlay Mirroring
How to set up and configure AirPort Express for AirPlay and iTunes
About AirPlay Mirroring in OS X Mountain Lion
iTunes 10- About playing music with AirPlay
Troubleshooting AirPlay and AirPlay Mirroring
Using AirPlay
Thanks to the $15 Beamer, AirPlay streaming is still possible on Macs that do not support Airplay and mirroring.
Another solution is the Air Parrot.

Why won't the Thunderbolt port (Mini Display) on a 2011 MacBook Pro drive a DVI Display?

I'm trying to use a MonoPrice 5106 Mini Display to DVI adapter and a DVI cable to drive an Acer H233H 23" HD display. I'm driving it from the Thunderbolt Port (Mini Display) on a 2011 MacBook Pro. It doesn't work. I use a similar MonoPrice adapter (5311) to drive the HDMI input on this monitor from the Thunderbolt port and it works fine.
I can drive the DVI input on the Acer display from an older iMac using a MonoPrice 4851 Mini-DVI to DVI adapter and this same DVI cable and it works just fine.
So, why won't it work from the MacBook Pro? Do I need the much more expensive Monoprice 6904 dual link DVI adapter ($69)? Why isn't this mentioned in the MacBook Pro manual or on the MacBook Pro support page? MonoPrice says this 5106 adapter should work and if not to try the more expensive 6904 adapter. Need a better reason to buy the more expensive adapter.
Help please.
Thanks,
Vee

Just saw your question. Just like it's Apple counterpart, the 5106 is not capable of higher resolutions. You should, in theory, be able to drive your Acer display at lower resolutions with the 5106. And the 5106 may be sufficient for a 23" monitor . . . you'd need to check the maximum resolution for each.
But you definitely do need the 6904 for higher resolutions. That's what 30" monitors and other high-res displays require.

Why won't my 2011 MacBook Pro restart after Yosemite installation?

Why won't my 2011 MacBook Pro restart after Yosemite installation?

What symptoms are you seeing?
At what point does it get stuck?
Is it failing to Restart, or failing once it restart?
what exactly is on the screen, if anything?
Do you get the chime? the gray Apple? The spinner? black screen? gray screen? prohibitory sign?

My 2011 Macbook Pro OSX 10.8.4 latest update won't connect to secured Wi-fi

2011 Macbook Pro
OSX 10.8.4 latest updates
Suddenly stopped connecting to any wireless network which is secured, WEP/WPA/WPA2/personal/enterprise all do NOT work.
Connects to unsecured networks just fine.
For example, our wireless password is:
123456890!
I tried with WPA2, no luck.
Tried with WPA2 and pw 1234567890, no luck.
Tried with WPA and pw 1234567890!, no luck.
Tried with WPA and pw 1234567890, no luck.
Tried WEP with 1234567890, no luck.
Tried with NO SECURITY on this wi-fi network, connected right away.
-I did reset PRAM, no luck.
-I deleted from Keychain, no luck.
-I added as prefered network and removed, no luck.
-I added new network location, no luck.
-I removed the Wi-fi network adapter, rebooted, activated, no luck.
-In the mac console logs, all I see are "wlEvent: en1 en1 link DOWN" when I try to connect to my secured wireless network (home or my office or even at a neighbors).
-Wireless diagnostics tell me nothing
-Console logs do not tell me anything
-Warranty is expired and no AppleCare
Seems like a bug to me, even though I have tried with a Netgear, Cisco/Linksys, D-Link router and even tried tethering to a Samsung Galaxy Note 2 and iPhone 5, all same problem, says "Connection failed."
APPLE FRIENDS HELP ME PLEASE!

For example, our wireless password is: 123456890!
Well a password that weak will get cracked in about 6 hours on just about any PC in the area.
Now: LKUY*&T&67NH(*JKÎM<PijriuÎÓyhm8t, that's a real good network password, even a huge botnet would have trouble cracking that. I know because my router was PING flooded by the Flashback botnet and survived.
After OS X is reinstalled over itself to fix it, you might have to do more as it could be a "in user account" issue with a corrupted preference file, bad users permissions or another cause that's not OS X
..Step by Step to fix your Mac

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

My 2011 macbook pro won't church or turn on connected to mains??

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