Ram deabte. 2X1GB or 1X2GB w/ 1X512MB?

Okay, so I'm aiming to upgrade my iMac from 1GB (2X512MB).
The question at hand is will 2X1GB be faster then having 1X2GB w/ 1X512MB?
I realize that having 2X1GB would help with he dual-channeling and what not, but would having an extra 512MB help at all? or should I stick with the 2X1GB config?

On the other hand, having an extra 0.5 GB of RAM may make your system run more efficiently (less use of virtual memory) to make up for the small performance loss from not having matched RAM.
Also, if you later want increase your RAM to 4GB (or 3GB for the older iMac), you will already have your first 2GB module. If you get the pair of 1GB modules now and want to go to 4GB later, you will have to replace both modules (or at least one if your max is 3GB).
I emailed OWC tech support to ask the same question. The tech rep advised that going to 3GB (3GB is the max for my model) with mismatched RAM would provide better overall performance than going to 2GB with a matched pair, especially with Leopard. There was probably some salesmanship in the answer (actually, I like and trust the folks at OWC). At the time, OWC was having a sale on a matched pair of Apple OEM system pulls at 2x1GB, and I didn't think I would need 3GB, so I bought that set.
Now that I have Leopard and use VMware Fusion, I wish I had taken the rep's advice and gone to the max. Having another 1GB of RAM (or even 0.5GB) would be just about right.

Similar Messages

Bootcamp: Windows 7 not booting on 4gb ram

Hi!
Situation:
I installed Windows 7 via Bootcamp. On 2gb ram (2x1gb or 1x2gb doesn't matter) windows boots fine.
I upgraded to 4gb ram (2x2gb) and now Windows is not booting. As far as I know, it's not even getting in DOS.
There's just the cursor blinking into infinity...
What I've tried so far:
Installing windows with 2gb and ugrading to 4gb.
Installing windows with 4gb
Tried the 32bit and the 64bit version
Found a 'solution' on the web making me boot in safe mode in order to change the maximum ram windows accepts.
Attributed more gb to the windows partition
I'm out of ideas, what do you think?
regards,
Massimo

While we all have MacBooks in this forum not all of us use BootCamp. There's a BootCamp Support Community where everybody uses BootCamp. You should also post this question there to increase your chances of getting an answer.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/windows_software/boot_camp

Windows 7 not booting with 4gb ram

Hi!
Situation:
I installed Windows 7 via Bootcamp. On 2gb ram (2x1gb or 1x2gb doesn't matter) windows boots fine.
I upgraded to 4gb ram (2x2gb) and now Windows is not booting. As far as I know, it's not even getting in DOS.
There's just the cursor blinking into infinity...
What I've tried so far:
Installing windows with 2gb and ugrading to 4gb.
Installing windows with 4gb
Tried the 32bit and the 64bit version
Found a 'solution' on the web making me boot in safe mode in order to change the maximum ram windows accepts.
Attributed more gb to the windows partition
I'm out of ideas, what do you think?
regards,
Massimo

While we all have MacBooks in this forum not all of us use BootCamp. There's a BootCamp Support Community where everybody uses BootCamp. You should also post this question there to increase your chances of getting an answer.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/windows_software/boot_camp

I would like to receive some hardware recommendations/advice

I am building a new computer, and I have to start from almost nothing due to bad or old hardware.
I am able to reuse the following:
2 SATA HDs (file storage drives)
2 IDE HDs (/ and /home -- although I'd rather switch to all SATA)
DVDRW
My case and power supply are decent brands/models, but the PS is noisy and the case has a few missing parts.
Here are the components that I am considering:
Antec 300 case
Corsair 520HX ps
Gigabyte GA-EP35C-DS3R motherboard (socket 775, 4xDDR2 slots - 8 GB, 2xDDR3
Intel E8400 processor
either the Zalman 9500 or OCZ Vendetta 2 heatsink/fan (Which thermal compound should I use?)
eVGA AKIMBO 8800 GT 512mb video card
either 2x1gb or 2x2gb ddr2-6400 ram (Which brand??? I'm looking at the OCZ model with the heatpipe and heatsinks)
(ideally) 2 SATA HDs for / and /home
2-3 120mm fans (two higher-CPM, low db for intake and one lower-CPM, low db for side exhaust)
I plan to run Arch 32 for the time being. It's not a big deal with Linux to make a backup of /etc and reinstall, so I will upgrade when Flash and Java are available as 64-bit binaries. Is it better to go with the 2x1gb or 2x2gb ram? I plan to use DDR3 in a couple years once that memory type is cheap enough. I realize that 32-bit OSes can only efficiently use ~3.5gb of ram, but I'd like to have as much as I can use -- especially when the price difference between 2gb and 4gb is very small.
I would wait for the Nehalem architecture to arrive and be around for six months, but I need a new computer now. I'm tired of dealing with constant freezes and crashes that are definitely due to a hardware problem. I also need this system to last a few years. I'll be really happy if I can get seven years out it like my old system (1999-2006). This new system was a free hand-me-down (for which I am grateful, of course), but it's dying...
I will use my system for the following:
Warsow, Nexuiz, Tremulous, Savage, Postal 2, Darwin....
Valve/id games
some other games through WINE/Cedega
small XMPP server (openfire)
3D modeling/rendering
image/video editing (nothing major like HD)
audio/video conversion/transcoding
VirtualBox for testing OSes and jailing WinXP for those two programs that aren't available for Linux
How does my hardware configuration sound? Is it happy with Linux? How are nVidia nForce motherboards? How well do they work with Linux? I'd prefer to not have to use binary blobs. I'm making one exception with the video card. I know that ATI drivers are getting better in that respect, but the 8800 GT kills everything else out there in terms of price, performance, and power usage.
Speaking of power usage, I want the system to be as efficient, cool, and quiet as possible. I don't plan to overclock, but I do know that the E8400 can easily to up to 4GHz on air.
I have heavily based the specifications on suggestions at mysuperpc.com (and its forums), so the system is mostly in the "sweet spot" of price vs performance.
Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions/comments!

mrbug wrote:Antec 300 case
What's the Antec 300 case? You mean the Antec p183, which hasn't even come out yet? That would be nice to have... Or did I miss something?
mrbug wrote:either the Zalman 9500 or OCZ Vendetta 2 heatsink/fan (Which thermal compound should I use?)
Well the heatsink/fan you get depends on how quiet you want it to be. If you want it to be as quiet as possible, I would suggest Arctic Cooling Accerlero, then have a case fan blow the heat out. If noise isn't something you're worried about, Zalman is a great choice. For thermal compound, I use Arctic Silver 5. Other people may suggest something else. If you don't think having just a heatsink and a case fan to control airflow is enough, I would urge you to check out SilentPCReview (SPR), especially their forums.
mrbug wrote:Is it better to go with the 2x1gb or 2x2gb ram?
Well if you want 4 GB of RAM, you would do 2x2GB of RAM. If you want 2 GB you could have either 1x2GB of RAM or 2x1GB of RAM. It doesn't matter unless you're dual channeling. In that case, you want more sticks, each with less memory.
mrbug wrote:I'll be really happy if I can get seven years out it like my old system (1999-2006).
7 years without upgrades? That's asking for quite a lot. I think asking for more than 5 years without upgrades is a lot as it is. What I would really suggest is take it down a notch and upgrade certain components as time goes along. For example, one year you'll replace the graphics card, another year replace CPU, mobo and RAM, another year replace fans and heatsinks, another year replace the case. That way you don't need to splurge a bunch of money at one time building a whole new system, and your system will always be recent.
Anyway, sounds like more than anything, you should really check out SPR and maybe you want to have a sort of rolling update with your PC, which is what I do. The only time I'll be building a whole new PC from the ground up is when I need an additional machine.

What size external hard drive should I purchase

What size external hard drive should I purchase? I'm not tech savvy, so please speak slowly. I'm looking at OWC Mini Stack Classic to match my older Mac Mini. Do I need 500 GB, 1 TB or more? Plus, I have to add memory to upgrade to Snow Leopard. How much memory do I need and should I have an expert install it ?
Mac OSX version 10.5.8
Mac mini 3.1
Processor 2 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory 2GB 1067 MHz DDR3
1 Processor
2 Cores
L2 Cache 3MB
Memory 2GB
BUS Speed 1.07 GHz
Boot ROM Version MM3.1.0081.B06
SMC version 1.35f0
Hard Drive
Format MAC OS Extended
Capacity 297.77 GB
Available 238.69 GB
Used 59.08 GB on disk

Good points raised by all.
In my mini configs - both older and newer flatter model - I have kept their ministack external drive on top of the mini; with 3 or 4 little rubber feet added to the mini's base to give it a bit more elevation from the surface they are sitting on and a bit better chance to breathe. I'm not impressed by the very small air intakes on the bottom and the hot air that often comes out the back or how warm the case feels. Especially in the heat of summer.
I do turn the ministacks on/off as needed (primarily for backups once a week) as they're not entirely quiet and sometimes seem to have a low hum vibration. Nothing crazy. I just like it as dead quiet as possible sometimes. Plus the fan does not turn off even if the mini and ministack drive have shut down. The newer wide & slim model does seem a bit quieter than the older model.
Check through system profiler to see if your system has 2x1GB or 1x2GB. Most likely it is 2x1GB and you'd need to remove both to double your ram. On the off chance it has a free slot; a single 2GB stick would get you to 4GB. Check on the cost difference between the 2x2GB kit and a 2x4GB kit. I have an older core duo mini that functions fine with 2x2GB of RAM and 10.6.8. But, if you plan to continue to use the mini for several more years as a primary machine including upgrading the OS to Yosemite; it might not be a bad idea to just max it to 2x4 8GB. Yosemite really likes RAM to maximize performance.
Along the lines of keeping the same mini and doing upgrades. The biggest speed improvements are made by replacing the original internal hard drive with a flash drive. Of course this is a more technical upgrade, you really need to take the mini apart more and you have to weigh the cost of the upgrades and possibly paying somebody to do them; vs the cost of a newer system which would have a significantly faster processor and other improvements.

Crackling sound on Windows 7 x64 with K9N neo V 1.0

Hi
I installed Windows 7 x64 ultimate on my computer yesterday and everything worked fine except the audio, I installed the latest realtek drivers from MSI for x64 windows vista/7. But still I got the problem that it play fine and suddenly it "cracks" for less than a second and then it's like fastforwarding the missed ~halfsecond.
My hardware is:
4600+ X2 amd athlon
Ms-7260 ver 1.0 k9n neo nForce 550
6Gb of 667 MhZ kingston ram (2x2GB, 2x1GB)
GTS250 1024 mb MSI
samsung 500gb internal sata hdd (which windows 7 x64 ultimate is installed on)
q-tec 650w powersupply
The audio works perfectly in windows xp x86 and has done that the last 3+ years.
Is there a "fix" for this?
Thanks in advance

Oh man, this is quite some time ago that I could do this...
here it comes, BRASE YOURSELVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EVERYBODY GET OF THIS FORUM NOW!!
THERE IS A FIRE HAZARD!!
A Q-TEC POWER SUPPLY HAS BEEN SPOTTED!!
LEAVE NOW, WHILE YOU CAN!!!!
Man, that's quite some time ago I could do this...
I know, you may find it a bit overdone but really, a Q-Tec PSU is just one piece of junk. It's just some componetns thrown into a box and then they call it a power supply. Did you actually feel the weight of that thing? I bet you didn't. It weighs nothing, so you can't even use it as a door stop or paerweight.
Really, shut down your pc, take it out and throw it away. Be careful not to hit someone while doing that. (I mean, throw it in the bin or take it back to the guy who sold you this thing).
Get a good power supply. One with enough juice on the 12V-line. Take a psu with one 12V-rail. A good psu will cost you, but you will most certainly notice the difference.

Bios not fully acpi compliant

I can't get past a blue screen (BSOD) which states ...The BIOS in this system is not fully ACPI compliant... I've researched this site and the web and can't find an answer that works. I'd like to try to update the BIOS since it's the original and there are 2 newer versions but they appear to require windows to run and I can't boot into windows. My system is:
HP Pavilion Elite Desktop m9340f
Q6700 @ 2.66 GHz
6 GB RAM (2x2GB+2x1GB)
Asus IPIBL-LB "Benicia" Motherboard
BIOS 5.25 dated 6/16/2008
Windows Vista 64bit
This is how far I get:
Windows is loading files...
Microsoft Corporation flashes then BSOD
Here's what I've tried so far:
F8
Advanced Boot Options:
"Repair Your Computer" tries to start window, get BSOD
"Safe Mode" "Loading Windows Files" then BSOD
F9 HP Diagnostics works OK and all hardware checks out OK
F10 Setup mode, I've changed the SATA1 controller from RAID default to IDE and AHCI with same results
F11 Recovery (tries to get into windows and get BSOD)
Tried recovery using recovery DVDs with the same results when it tries to load windows
Tried Windows 7 upgrade disk with same results
Removed all RAM and tried one stick at a time with same results
Installed HD in USB dock and have run chkdsk (no errors), MSE virus scan (no issues)
Ran System File Checker sfc /scannow which resulted in this statement "Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files but was unable to fix some of them" I couldn't find any details in the CBS.log file
Tried clean HD (SSD) to recover to with same results
Reseated video card (same results)
Removed video card and ran off onboard video with same results
Reset BIOS to defaults
Cleared CMOS with jumper
I think I've exhausted about all I can think of and find online. Any ideas on how to flash the BIOS would be appreciated.

HI NGNeer:
Thank you for your reply.
I am sending you a link to "Updating the BIOS During Startup" click here.
I am also sending you a link to "Troubleshooting System Recovery Problems (Windows Vista)" click here.
I hope these are helpful.
Sparkles1
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

P43 not starting

M/B:
P43 Neo-F, 7519?
CPU:
Freq:2.83GHz, FSB 1333MHz, S-spec: SLAWQ, Core 2 Quad (Q9550)
Ram:
Corsair 2x1GB DDR2, 1066MHz PC2-8500 C5
Starts for 2 seconds then switch off for 1 second and then again and again.
if i reset bios is starting for once until i switch off the computer. when i start up again i have to reset bios.
i flash bios with 7519v12 but same
i flash bios with 7519v16 but is not starting at all
any ideas how to fix this?

Video Card
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
AdapterRAM: 512 MB
AdapterDACType: Integrated RAMDAC
InstalledDisplayDrivers: nv4_disp.dll(6.14.10.9371)
InfFilename: oem4.inf
DriverDate: 3/11/2006 7:32:00 pµ
Resolution: 1280 * 1024 Pixels
ValidRefreshRate: 60 - 75 Hz
CurrentRefreshRate: 60 Hz
CurrentBitsPerPixel: 16 Bits
Monitor
Plug and Play Monitor
MonitorManufacturer: (Standard monitor types)
Resolution: 1280 * 1024 Pixels
PixelsPerLogicalInch: 96 * 96 Pixels/Inch
I will Try with 1 memory
My PSU is 400W ATX/BTX 20+4pin (i change PSU today because i thought is was that the problem)
I remove the DVD, HD, FD, connection to tower (led, reset, etc) except the Video card, but the fault is there.

KT3 U2 & AMD XP 3000+...Do I Need More Power?

Hi,
I have just upgraded the following:
AthlonXP 1900+ to
AthonXP 3000+
2x256MB NANYA RAM (266 FSB / CL2.5) to
1x512MB KINGSTON (333 FSB / CL 2.0)
40GB HDD (ATA-100) IBM DESKSTAR to
160GB (ATA-133 / 8MB ) DIAMONDMAX PLUS 9
I also put in 1 more NIC & 1 PCI modem. So now all my PCIs are full.
I intend to add 1 more stick of 512MB as well as replace my GeForce 2 with a GeForceFX 5900 U.
Things are looking good so far But my concern is my P/S. Currently its 350W, should I upgrade it 400W or 450W?
Please advise.
PS: My monitor is drawing power directly from the mains & not from the PC.

The mobo CD will have PC AlertIII on it which is ok and will allow you to monitor cpu, case temps and voltages. That will be a start.
I note that you say you have one case fan. If possible try and have a minimum of 2, one at the front of the case other at rear. Especially since all your pci slots are taken.
If you do upgrade your psu similarly get one with 2 fans. I recently upgraded my wifes pc which runs low spec to an XP1800, 512Mb ram, GF4 MX440, 2HDD and 2 opticals and used a Chieftec 420W psu (twin fans) with combined 3.3 & 5v 220w with total 400w. I could have got away with something lesser but I prefer to have a large marging of safety.
As per my dets I too run this mobo and when I was using an underpowered psu although everything was running fine, the system would occassionally beep at me at o/s level (took me ages to fathom that one out). When I changed the psu to a more powerful one this beeping stopped.

MS 848P (socket 478)

I did a search to see if a topic like this had been made, and found nothing so now im posting. sorry in advance if this is a repost and i didnt look hard enough.
i want to upgrade my RAM to 2x1GB. my mother board says use 2.5v. www.crucial.com says that 2.6v and 2.8v are compatable with my motherboard.
will using a higher voltage fry my motherboard?
2.5v really limits my choices because most quality 2gb ram kits are 2.6v.
also i want to buy a 256MB MSI raedon x800 pro pci express video card. that is compatable correct?

wow you guys are fantastic! i appreciate that you actually took time to explain things instead of seinding me to some random links and have me read bundles of usless information to weed out the important info.
I just upgraded my power supply actually.
logisys glacier
- 500W
- +3.3V@30A, +5V@50A, +12V@25A, [email protected], [email protected], +5VSB@2A
- 2 fans (which helps with sucking hot hair out of the case into the power supply and out the other side.
its even got a knob to control the fans.
im so exceited! because the ram i wanted was 2.6v
im lookin at OCZ. i mean, i looked at corsiar, ive used computers with it, and its good ram. its overpriced tho.
anyone else have another recommendation? I dont want kingston, no offense to any loyal customers but their valueRAM costs as much as other brands specialty ram. Its good, but expensive too.
seriously tho you guys saved my day.

PM8M3-V H spontaneously reboots

Hello,
I'm having problems with the following:
Motherboard: PM8M3-V H (3x PCI slots) - cannot find H/W version or serial number
BIOS: W7211VMS V3.1 060906 18:12:27
CPU: Pentium D 945 SL9QQ 3.4ghz
RAM: 2gb, 2x1gb PC2700 (DDR333), CL=2.5, 2.5V
(Crucial CT12864Z335.16TFY) (Micron Tech. 16VDDT12864AY335F2)
PSU: Trust PowerMaster 14888, 570W
+3.3V 32A, 360W
+5V 30A, 360W
+12V1 16A, 192W
+12V2 16A, 192W
-12V 1.0A, 12W
VGA: Onboard
The PC randomly and spontaneously reboots under moderate CPU load, such as running a SpyBot S&R scan. This occurs when running Windows XP and also in Windows XP PE booted from Hirens Boot CD v15.2.
Note: This is not a Blue Screen of Death followed by a reboot, it just reboots without warning.
Memory errors are sometimes found when running Memtest86 v4.20, but other times it can run four or more complete passes without any errors.
While trying to locate the problem, I have replaced:
* The CPU (Was a Celeron 3ghz CPU)
* The current RAM is from a know working system, in total I've to installed 3 different sets of RAM, also tried running with a single DIMM
* The hard disk (Used to be IDE, now its SATA)
* The onboard graphic card with a generic GeForce2 MX64 AGP card
* The PSU with 400W one.
I've tried to systematically adjust some of the DRAM settings, such as the speed and CAS Latency with no improvement.
I've also tried booting, directly after clearing the CMOS (Default settings), and with the 'Optimised' settings without success.
So far I've spent about 4 days trying to solve this issue. I'm about ready to throw out the mobo.
Thanks, Sean

Cheap PSU = Badly designed + poor quality components used from the cheapest manufacturer + a low life expectancy under any load as it will deteriorate quickly = within a 3 month period of use its dropped by 25% on all its rails and it starts to have very violent voltage ripple that causes damage and very unstable operation
to avoid problems like this GET A QUALITY UNIT like i already suggested (Corsair and Seasonic are amongst the best PSU's out there) as the ones you have are very cheap units from what looks like mass manufactured PC's that they make to just barely power the components for its expected life plus 6-12months and no more (maybe got a 1-3 years warranty and they expect it to be useless and broken down within a few months after its ran out as they do that to make sure you have to buy another one!) so don't use ones you pulled out old PC's from manufacturers unless its got a OCZ, Coolermaster, Corsair or Seasonic PSU as the ones they use are useless Generic ones that are glorified paperweights!
Please stop testing cheap and nasty PSU's as its not going to be of any help thank you!

Problems with G31TM-P21

I`m trying to put a system together but something is wrong with the motherboard .
Mobo: G31TM-P21
Processor: Core 2 Duo E6300
RAM: Apacer 2x1GB 667
GPU: onboard / PALIT 8600GT SONIC
PSU: 400W CHIEFTEC ( 40Amps / 12V Rail )
Bios Version: no idea ( green sticker on bios chip is missing )
Ok so here is the thing ... the E6300 is on the supported CPU list , and should work with any BIOS version . I`ve tested this motherboard about 2-3 months ago with a Celeron dual core , and it was working ( well kinda ) . I couldn`t get into bios though , all i was getting was a message with PXE LAN ROM , can`t remember it . I think it was trying to boot from Lan or something , i might be wrong . So i left it there , in its box , and a couple of days ago i wanted to try a bios update to see if i can fix the PXE LAN ROM thingy . But the board won`t even post with that processor installed .
I tried clearing CMOS ( by jumper , by removing the battery ) a couple of times , and same thing . And no , i didn`t try to reset the bios with the jumper missing , with the board still running , and i did not forger the jumper in clear state .
I`d like to add that im not the first owner , and i have no idea what the previous owner did , or if the motherboard ever worked .
So i have a couple of questions :
1. Is it possible that one CPU ( listed in the PSL as working since the first bios release ) not to actually work ? Anyone encountered such a problem before ?
2. Is it possible that the motherboard came with a wrong bios in the first place ? since i see that its a G31TM-P21 board but under the sticker , there is another motherboard version "hard - printed" . I checked , it seems that there are 3 mobo versions that uses the same PCB and prolly use the same bios anyway , but who knows ..
Things that i want to add : The e6300 is just fine , it works on another motherboard .
The Apacer ram modules work , and are on the QVL .
I tried with different ram modules / same thing , but i really don`t think that the ram is the problem here sinse the board won`t beep without the modules installed . I tried with only one ram module / first slot closer to the cpu socket , switched the ram around . The other modules that i tried with are from Corsair ( 800mhz dimms ) .
The PSU is a pretty decent one , and it`s working properly .
I tried with a dedicated video card , and with the onboard one , same thing .
I cleared cmos everytime i made a hardware change .
I checked some voltages and tbh everything seems OK !
Things that i haven`t tried yet :
BIOS recovery procedures / updating bios , with floppy or cd-rom / sata port . Blind flash or whatever it is called ( but i doubt that would work in my case )...
I don`t have another processor for now , so i can test with . I will try to find another Celeron Dual core that i used the first time and give it another try .

like i said , i tried to clear cmos a couple of times by removing the battery and also by placing the jumper in clear pos. . It didn`t work . I`ve used a true PS/2 keyboard , and also tried an USB one with / without an USB to PS2 adapter . It didn`t work ( the manual says that i should hit DEL key , but i also tried F2 F10 and so on , nothing was happening) . I was seeing that MSI splashscreen (logo) without any messages like : press "key" to enter bios or press F12 for boot menu or whatever . Just the splashscreen and after about 5 seconds that : PXE LAN ROM message . This was when the board was posting with that celeron dual core installed . with the E6300 it wont even post so i can`t really get to the point where i should be able to go into Bios or at least try to . I connected a speaker ( buzzer ) to the SPK headers and i get no beeps whatsoever .
So anyway ... anyone encountered such a problem ? A CPU on the Supported CPU list that doesn`t actually work until you update the BIOS to a more recent version / release ?
Ill try to find a celeron dual core E1200 or E1400 to see if the board still works with it and if it does , ill try to update the bios with the CTRL+HOME method .

Bad PSU, MB, or incompatible? [Solved!]

Hello again. Regarding new build with an MSI 975X Platinum Power Up Edition. When I try to boot absolutely nothing happens. Sometimes the MB powers up for a second, momentarily spinning the CPU and graphic card fans, but most of the time not even that.
MB: MSI Platinum Power Up Edition
PSU: Antec NeoHE 550 (18 amps max at 12 volts, 24 amps max at 3.3 volts)
Processor: Intel Duo Core 2 6600 w/ OEM heatsink and fan
RAM: Patriot, 2x1GB, DDR2, PC26400, 800MHz
Graphics: EVGA GeForce 7900GT KO
I get the same results whether or not the RAM is installed and I've tried one chip at a time, in different slots. Also tried without graphic card, same result. Removed MB from case to test for board/case short, same result.
I've double-checked the CPU fit - seems like it can't be installed incorrectly because of notches. I've also checked the power plugs (molex for PCI, 6-pin PCIE to card, 24-pin to board, and 4-pin to CPU).
I wanted to test with a different PSU, but my next-newest PSU is only 20-pin and has no PCIe cord.
It sounds like a PSU problem to me, as if it provides power to the MB then stops delivery. Are there any known compatibility issues between the NeoHE and the 975X? Could the problem possibly be with the MSI motherboard? I've e-mailed tech support at Antec and hope to hear something soon.
-Bob

I have almost an identical setup on a MSI 975x powerup edition and a Antec 550w TP II PSU and getting similar issues... Im getting horrible issues with not being able to cold boot and start up the computer. However after about a few hours of turning the computer off and unpluging from wall, Im then able to boot up after a couple times of resetting the comp. This problem may have started after I flashed back to 7.1 im not sure if its the bios and settings that are causing this horrible boot issue but im not positive (also note this problem only occurs when I try to OC anything over default). Im almost afraid to turn off the computer because of the cold boot issues. Another note way back when I first setup my system I heard a little pop sound and a burning electronic smell... I was worried when this happened... but disregarded when I was able to boot up my system with no problems and OC my CPU to 400FSB... but over time it seems this issue with cold booting was getting worse over time. 3 weeks ago I was able to boot in with 400FSB but would always have minor cold boot issues where I would have to restart the system 2-3 times. Then 1-2 weeks ago the problem got worse where I would have to restart 5-10 times about. Now I cant boot up the system without turning it off resetting cmos and leaving it unpluged for +3 hours. Im not sure if the PSU is the problem because I dont have a replacement PSU that supports this mobo and its power reqs. So the issue is its either the Motherboard or the PSU thats causing the problems im not sure which one it could be... espically since Im able to boot up after going through the long process of turning off the comp and restarting multiple times.

Is 400W enough power? p965 Platinum

Trying to figure out what is wrong with my system as it some things like front mic I/O not working. System appears stable, but also refuses to run RAM at correct settings (Geil DDR2-800 2.1v 4-4-4-12). Could too little power be a source of problems, or is it likely RAM or MSI board? I'm doing no overclocking and using a cheap ATI graphics card with a Raptor RAID0 and a DVD that is rarely used.
I would think 400W power-supply is sufficient, but can this also be a source of the problem with RAM and sound? I'm about to return the motherboard and go for maybe Gigabyte or Asus (has known sound problems) since it seems not to be solvable.

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Using Memtest software I get errors when running single or dual channel, cannot replicate error with just 1 RAM (1GB), though I think I've earlier had error reported when testing just 1 chip at a time, Memtest reports errors more consisently when using 2 RAM chips (2x1GB). It's a Geil 800-Ultra kit at 2.1v 4-4-4-12 (SPD: 5-5-5).
1.Did you test both modules seperately in Slot 1 for a longer period of time each?
2. Try to switch your modules around (sometimes that helps).
3. Set your timings to 5-4-4-12 and see if that works for you. If timings are really set to 3-4-4-12, when you manually enter 4-4-4-12, this will be the closest you get to your expected timings. The difference in performance between 5-4-4-12 and 4-4-4-12 is very insignificant.
4. What BIOS Version are you using?
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The PSU is generic from the store, so can't find much more info about it.
There should be some kind of sign on the PSU with the most important numbers on it. Have a close look and post whatever you find.
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But since PC is stable,
Doesn't sound that stable....

Constant crashes -Fearing the worst

My MacBook (2007) started crashing (shutting down on itself) last night. I'm able to login but no more than 2 minutes after which I get the dialogue 'Are You Sure You Want To Restart You Computer?' Regardless what I click (if I have time to do so), it simply shuts down.
I've tried the following:
-log in as Guest
-disconnected all USB peripherals/cables
-safe boot
-disconnect router
-zapping pram
-re-seated ram sticks (2x1Gb) (also tried one stick at a time and switching them)
-and the big one: Booting from Install Disc!!! (10.6)
All of the above didn't help. The computer simply crashes within 2 minutes of booting up.
It also doesn't recognize my external hard drive with bootable backup.
Am I in trouble? Is there something else I haven't tried?
note: while booting from Install disc I only go as far as being able to go to Disk Utility before the crash. I'm almost tempted to try and continue with the install process.
Thanks much.

In every language possible, I thank you from the bottom of my heart! It has been a bit over two hours and we are still up and running Cory.
If you are ever in Memphis, TN, holler and we will treat you so many ways you're bound to like one of them!
Great ribs from the world famous Rendezvous restaurant!
Seriously, thanks again!

Ram deabte. 2X1GB or 1X2GB w/ 1X512MB?

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