RE: Orbix verses Visibroker) FREE YOURSELF of languageconstraints!

Firstly, thread continuation:
And my worth: Might be using the 'port=${PORT_NB}' possibility, impossible
using GUI workshop, but maybe in F-script ?
Or find a way to use the same distribution installed twice, with different ports ?
Secondly, remarks on the 'language' matter
http://babelfish.altavista.com/cgi-bin/translate?
Btw, this thread was implicitely translated :
attribution du port => port attribution
Il semble que la GUI n'autorise que les nombres
it seems GUI authorizes numbers
utiliser des variables d'environnemnt .?
use environment variables ?
portable... => ? :-)
WebEnterprise est necessaire car il faut le 'IIOP Gateway' pour communiquer
WebEnterprise is necessary IIOP Gateway to communicate
entre Java, ou un ORB, et Forte. Ceci n'est pas disponible avec l'installation de base.
JAVA ORB FORTE. not disponible ... basic installation
Thanks :)
J-Paul gabrielli
-----Message d'origine-----
De: Kallambella, Ajith [SMTP:[email protected]]
Date: mercredi 3 fevrier 1999 17:42
A: 'J-Paul GABRIELLI'; 'David Bell'; [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Objet: RE: Orbix verses Visibroker
.......In English please!!
Ajith Kallambella. M
-----Original Message-----
From: J-Paul GABRIELLI [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:37 AM
To: 'David Bell'; [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Orbix verses Visibroker
Bonjour,
Et comment se passe l'attribution du port d'ecoute ?
Il semble que la GUI n'autorise que les nombres... et ces nombres sont
explicites dans les btd/btx.
Peut-on utiliser des variables d'environnement ? Histoire d'etre portable
:-)=
j-paul Gabrielli
DTS
-----Message d'origine-----
De: David Bell [SMTP:[email protected]]
Date: mercredi 3 fevrier 1999 15:38
A: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Objet: Re: Orbix verses Visibroker
Bonjour,
WebEnterprise est necessaire car il faut le 'IIOP Gateway' pour communiquer
entre Java, ou un ORB, et Forte. Ceci n'est pas disponible avec
l'installation
de base.
Cordialement,
- David
David Bell
Forte Software UK
Tel : +44 378 300 613
Fax: +44 1344 420905
Email : [email protected]
<< Fichier: David Bell.vcf>>
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Similar Messages

Free Yourself from the Play Button!

Hi all!
One of the annoying things I've found with Breeze is having
to repeatedly click the "play" button as I advance through a large
presentation. After a while, your mouse pointer can easily drift
off that little button. Here's a quick workaround which allows you
to click anywhere in your presentation and get the same effect:
Make a blank Flash module and add this code to frame one:
_root.m_contentView.onRelease = function () {
_root.m_controlBar.m_playBtn.onRelease();
...that's it! Now, just stick the *.swf module on the first
slide of your PPT presentation, and compile it to Breeze. Click
anywhere on the "stage" to get the same effect as clicking the play
button (your control bar and side bar will work as usual). There is
a downside to this, though: it overrides any interactive items
(buttons, Flash modules, quiz questions, etc.) you may already have
in your presentation.
Cheers!
~Marc B

Only if the last button the user clicked on WAS the
play/pause button. Many of our users, familiar with the PPT
interface, have indicated that they would like the ability to click
anywhere to advance. They'd also like to right-click to move
backward one animation (also like PPT), but that requires a bit
more coding.
You have fun, too!

Trying to free up space on hard drive, with an external hard drive, but don't want to lose the files!

So I am really stressed out right now.
I have a macbook pro, with a 750 gb hard drive in it. My internal hard drive filled up a while back so I bought a 3TB external hard drive. I backed up my files onto my external a while ago, but I don't really remember how... There is a folder on my hard drive that is called " wd smartware.swstor" , and inside that folder is about 1.7 TB of files (when I click 'get info')... So I'm guessing that is where all my stuff is being backed up. But I also moved files from my computer onto that hard drive, like pictures and videos, that I wanted to delete off my internal... So I may have duplicates?
But my 3TB hard drive is almost full, it has 400GB free on it. And my 750gb internal hard drive on my macbook pro, has filled up again so it only has 10gb free space. So basically I have almost 3TB of files on my external hard drive, and 740gb on my internal.. This can't be right. There is no way I have this many files. I am guessing I have some of the same files on my internal that I do on my external.. Most of my files are high quality HD video files that I imported through final cut pro x....
So I bought another 3TB external hard drive that I haven't used yet. Basically, I just want to move all my files that are on my internal hard drive (roughly 750gb) onto my NEW external 3TB hard drive- and then delete the files off my internal so I have more free space. I just don't know if these files are already being backed up on my OLD external 3TB hard drive.
Can someone please help? Thank you!

craigbuckley wrote:
If I get rid of my TIme Machine, will I lose all my files from the past?
Yes it will unless you back it up first out of TM.
TimeMachine is a self rotating image of your boot drive with saved states, it manages itself based upon the available space on the drive. As new states are created, old ones are deleted along with older versions of your files.
Also if you incur a drastic large change to your boot drive, TimeMachine will DELETE older versions of your files.
TimeMachine is not a archival solution!
To rescue yourself from TimeMachine, you will first need to save the recent copy of file(s) to the new 3TB, then restore the older version of the file from TimeMachine to the boot drive and then rename it/date it and save that older copy to the new 3TB drive.
This way you have both the new copy and the old copy of the file pernamently archived on the new 3TB drive.
Once you have exhausted all of TimeMachines older files, you can free yourself from it, erase the drive.
For your needs, I suggest this.
Internal drive and bootable clone
1: Your internal 750GB boot drive contains active working files.
2: You have another external drive that's either 750GB or 1TB, you use Carbon Copy Cloner to make a bootable clone of your boot drive, update it when you know you have a stable OS X system on your boot drive and before updates or changes, this way if the update goes bad and the machine will not boot. You can connect the clone, hold the option key down and boot the comptuer from the clone. You then can get online to get help, or simply reverse clone your software problems away.
CCC has the ability like TimeMachine to save states between clones, it's on be default but you can turn this off as to maintain a pure clone, this is what I advise you do as to avoid confusion. You clone is a perfect copy since the last update of the clone, which you can setup to do nightly if you wish or every few days or every few weeks, whatever.
Your bootable clone is your lifesaver if your boot hard drive dies or refuses to boot up, you can boot from the clone in seconds and only be slightly off since the last update of the clone. TM won't run the computer like a clone will.
I highly adise keeping your clone in a very safe place, away from theft, fire, electrical, etc.
http://www.bombich.com/
External Storage Drives
3: Your first external 3TB drive (sans TimeMachine) will be your storage drive, this will contain any files that you don't wish to have on the internal drive and as a result also not on the clone.
You maintain folders that are dated, with older copies of files in those folders if you wish. This way you can control the space on the drive and not make multiple duplicates of all the large files like TM does.
For instance if you work on a 100GB project for three days, instead of having three copies taking up 300GB like what TM does, you can rather choose to have just one older copy at 100GB. You can decide you don't need a particular older version of a file and remove it, thus managing your drive space yourself.
4: Your other external 3TB is a Carbon Copy Cloner backup of the first 3TB, maintain a perfect clone of that as well and update it periodically as your needs change. Since CCC can be schedualed and works in the background, you can have it update your clones overnight or another time your not using the machine. This free's up performance as TM isn't running in the background while your trying to work.
Also with no TM local cache file, that also will free up space on the boot drive.
The general rule is you need both hardware AND software protection for your data, thus with too much data to fit on the boot drive, you need a external storage drive and then a backup of that as to maintain TWO hardware copies of your data at all times.
This method is also scaleable, if you need more room than 3TB externally, you then get another 2 3TB drives, one for the new data and one for backup.
The bootable clone of your bootdrive is kept in a very safe place, it's designed to protect your OS X investment in software etc. and espectially, to get your Mac booting in as short as a time as possible while you plan on a replacement boot hard drive/repair.
Read more about the advanced options bootable clones give here.
Most commonly used backup methods
With your large storage needs, you basically have outgrown TimeMachine by hitting the hardware limit of drives.
If there were 10-20TB drives, you likely could keep on going with TimeMachine, but you can't.
Your clearly in the more "professional" catagory with your storage management needs, not in the TM "newbie to computers" where it's managed for you.
If your finding your needs are going to exceed 6TB, you might want to consider a external hardware RAID 5 box with 5+ drives, they will self redundancy so if a drive dies you just switch it with a new one and the missing data is copied from the other drives.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAID
http://www.macgurus.com/
Good Luck

Tengo cuenta Premium y aparece Free

Hola, el pasado 1 de Marzo me di de alta en Spotify Premium a través de mi operador de red Yoigo. Ha funcionado 3 días y ayer, al iniciar sesión, me sale como si fuera Spotify Free.
En mi factura aparece Spotify Premium activado; así como en mi perfil. Pero inicio sesión y es la versión Free.
¿A qué es debido?

Hola Rocío,
Mi suscripción de Spotify Premium se canceló a través de Yoigo el 28 de Febrero. Estaba asociada a la línea de mi mujer.
Como yo me he hecho cliente de Yoigo, el día 1 de Marzo (estando ya de baja con la línea de mi mujer) la asocié a la mía. Ya que me daban tres meses gratuitos. Pero usamos la misma cuenta Spotify para no perder las listas de reproducción.
Ha funcionado desde el día 1 al 4; en el que dejó de funcionar...
No sé si ha habido un cruce de datos o similar y por eso es el error. Porque cuando entro en mi perfil de Yoigo aparece que lo tengo activo. Asimismo, trabajo en un distribuidor de Yoigo y accediendo por nuestro canal a mi cuenta, veo que lo tengo activo igualmente.

Backup, restoring, formatting info

Some starting out information
I created this post to inform others of the various and essential ways to restore your machine, data, create backups and so forth.
10.6 and 10.7 are mostly covered with information current as of Oct 4, 2011 and subject to human error and change.
Only conduct any actions here if your prepared to take action on your own, the risk is yours, if not please seek assistance of qualified professional data recovery experts. Any product or site mention/link is purely for assistance purposes, doesn't represent a endorsement by me or Apple. Legalese blah.
Having many separate hardware copies
...of your data is essential, as the OS and programs can be replaced, but not your personal files (normally kept in your User folders of Music, Documents, Pictures, Sites, Movies etc.)
Apple currently doesn't supply much in the way of data recovery services, it's on YOU to make sure you have many copies of your personal data and perhaps many ways to restore your machine to a functional state.
There are three basic primary forms of backup and restore methods used on Macs, no one way is perfect, so a combination of ways may be better suited for your needs, but redundancy of methods and backups is the key.
1: TimeMachine Drive - which is a rotating in time image of your boot drive contents. If you remove something from your boot drive, eventually it will be removed from TimeMachine drive as well. TimeMachine drives cannot be booted from and can only restore. This is a very good basic option for most new to computers users as it's all automated (as long as the drive is connected) and gives "undelete" ability. It's not a complete solution and that's what the next two options are for.
Please, for your own sake if you don't have any backup plan or don't undestand geek speak, at least connect a new external drive and let automatic TimeMachine popup do it's buisness.
From here on out everything TimeMachine, including restoring from a TM drive, I point you to our resident expert Pondini and his web page.
http://web.me.com/pondini/Time_Machine/Home.html
The steps here below out are a bit more advanced, but if you master them you will be in control of your computer and can save yourself.
2: Data / Storage Drives - these are drives that basically act as holders of data you wish to store, they don't do anything but hold your personal files in a permanent fashion unless you remove it. These are what one would use if their primary boot drive on their computer is getting full, since TimeMachine is a self rotating image, that can't be used for permanent or extra storage space. And clones are bootable images of the current boot drive, so they are subject to change as well. For all intensive purposes if you want to make sure your data doesn't disappear, to hold your personal data while your wiping your entire boot drive of all data and restoring OS X completely (aka "fresh install method"), then you use plain jane storage drives and maintain two separate hardware backups of your data at all times.
3: Hold the option key bootable Clone drive- these are (almost) exact images of your OS X partition and it's contents. The advantage with clones is in case your internal drive fails to boot, either for software or hardware reasons, you can boot from a clone, perform data recovery, drive repair and most of all get online, get help, and use your computer like almost nothing happened. In other words your life doesn't immediately stop to address a failed computer, you can in most cases continue working and resolve the issue later, or in the case of a software issue, just reverse clone form the latest clone image.
You can keep "states" of your OS X partition in a more permanent fashion unlike TimeMachine. For instance if your considering on upgrading to a new OS X version and not sure it will work, you can fall back onto the previous version of OS X at any time provided you made a clone first. Think of a clone as moving all your software to another piece of hardware and everything is almost exactly as it was before. Clones are the preferred method to upgrading to a new internal drive of perhaps larger capacity or speed.
Because of differences in computer hardware, you can't use a clone created on one Mac on another type of Mac. Only the same exact model can be perhaps be imaged to other Mac's. If your thinking this would be a nice way to pirate software, forget it. Each Mac has a ID associated with along with other identifying information.
Cloning software most Mac users use is Carbon Copy Cloner, (first and totally free, donations accepted) or Superduper (part free, part payware)
Drive size for clones: equal too or larger than the drive you intend to clone. If your going to upgrade the internal drive, then naturally one that matches or exceeds the new internal drive so you can use it as a clone afterwards. Best to clone to a larger drive than the original, as your data could exceed the smaller capacity drive.
Drive formatting
Drive formatting is IMPORTANT and needs to be performed before a drive is used for the first time. Doesn't matter what it's used for a wrongly formatted drive can cause trouble later down the road if you don't understand drive maps and formatting. Apple's Disk Utility is the program used to format drives on a Mac, you can find it in the Applications/Utilities folder.
Partition Maps
These are roadmap instructions to how many partitions (separate areas on the physical drive) there are and what format they contain. Unfortunately not all operating systems can read others partition map schemes. So when one gets a NEW drive, it has to be completely erased and formatted to meet the partition map needs of the operating system and/or firmware used on the computer.
For instance Mac's need a GUID Partition Table (GPT), Windows uses a Master Boot Record (MBR), Linux uses either and reads anything.
Mac's can use a MBR as it can read some Windows drive formats, trouble is you won't be able to boot from any partition or drive with OS X on it without a GPT.
Since most drives come from the factory formatted MBR with a Fat32 (MSDOS) drive format, in order to use the drive on a Mac you need to format it GPT and OS X Extended (Journaled) (aka HFS+) in Apple's Disk Utility before using it.
If you place data on the drive and then realize it's the wrong partition map scheme and need to change it, then all the data off all the partitions on the entire drive must be removed first.
If you place data on a partition and you need to format it differently, you need to get the data off only that partition your going to reformat.
Current drive formats - there are many different formats how data is placed on the drive, and a drive can have many partitions each with a different format!
Windows currently uses:
NTFS - used primarily for the operating system, but external drives can also be formatted this way
FAT32 (MSDOS in Apple's Disk Utility) this is a universal format between PC's and Macs, but limited to 4GB file sizes.
exFAT a new patented pending format both Mac's and PC's can currently read/write, it can have files in excesses of 4GB in size.
   (if you have Windows XP, a free exFAT download from Microsoft is available, just search for it)
Mac's OS X currently uses:
HFS+ (OS X Extended Journaled) required to boot OS X. All new Mac's come formatted this way, and perhaps some drive sold at Apple.
FAT32 (MSDOS) file exchange with PC's to 4GB sized files. Most drives sold in regular computer and office stores come formatted this way for PC's. (with a MBR)
exFAT - file exchange with PC's over 4GB sized files (Mac's pre 10.6.5 won't have exFAT)
Linux currently uses EXT4 for itself, can read/write anything.
Software called MacDrive installed on a Windows machine can read Apple's HFS formats.
Software like Tuxera, 3GNTFS, Paragon, allows Mac's to read the NTFS format of Windows drives.
It is PREFERRED not to rely upon third party software for reading drive formats, rather use a interchangeable format like FAT32 or exFAT instead.
When formatted a drive for both PC and Mac use, it's perhaps easier to format it on Windows into FAT32 or exFAT first, so you get the MBR, then confirm it works, then on the Mac before using it to transfer vital data over long distances.
Apple's Disk Utility allows one more partition to be carved out from the bottom clear existing OS X partition, you will learn all about this if you going the BootCamp route with Windows. I don't advise messing around unless you made backups of your data first.
When Bootcamp creates the Window partition it formats it MSDOS (FAT32) which you have to change to NTFS on the Windows installer disk before you can install Windows. Make sure you printout and read the Bootcamp instructions and have the Mac hardware drivers on hand.
If your machine keeps booting into Windows and gets stuck, simply hold the option key upon boot to select OS X and set OS X as the start up disk in System Preferences.
https://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp/
Restoring OS X 10.5 10.6. 10.7 - simple overwrite OS method
Ok, you got a OS X problem and you want to just reinstall OS X (and bundled Apple programs) without touching anything else, not your files or most third party programs.
1: Backup your user files via drag and drop methods of your User folders (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies etc) regardless to a data drive as outlined above, as the problem you may be having could be more serious, like a hardware or firmware issue. Disconnect all other drives.
2: For Snow Leopard and Leopard - stick the original grey disk (free iLife included) into the computer and reboot holding down c, simply reinstall OS X (archive and install for Leopard)
If you upgraded Snow Leopard over Leopard, then your going to be using the white Snow Leopard Retail disks (no free iLife) and it naturally won't replace iLife, just OS X.
3: For Lion, you need a reliable, fast Internet connection. Hold Command r and boot into Lion Recovery, get online and simply reinstall Lion. You'll have to use the AppStore to download iLife.
4: Once you have done this and rebooted normally, immediately Software Update under the Apple Menu so your Apple programs match your files (like iPhoto Library and iTunes Library that were changed with later versions)
5: Any programs you bought via App Store can be redownloaded by holding option key and clicking on Purchases.
Note: if you have installed root level system third party software, it may not function anymore, simply reinstall it from original sources.
Restoring OS X - 10.6 "fresh install method"
1: Backup your user files via drag and drop methods of your User folders (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies etc) regardless to a data drive as outlined above, as the problem you may be having could be more serious, like a hardware or firmware issue. Disconnect all other drives.
2: Hold c and boot off the 10.6 grey disks (or if you want the free iLife on the 10.5 disks, then that first, then upgrade to 10.6) and use Disk Utility under the Utilities menu to erase the internal drive media.
Select media on left, click partition, click big box, select 1 partition, option GUID, format OS X Extended (journ) give it the same drive name as before, (to match pathnames used in your iTunes and other files to locate where music is stored on the drive) Format OS X Extended journaled click Apply and confirm.
Optional for privacy/security or for all new drives for better data retention. Select the drive, erase tab, erase>Security option Zero all data. Takes about a hour per 500GB.
3: When finished quit and install OS X Snow Leopard and reboot and see the familiar Welcome to Mac animation. (if you shutdown after installing, this makes a nice way to treat the new owner of your used Mac and lets then go through the setup process.)
4: When creating the new user, use the same user name as before, this again, like the same drive name, matches the pathnames in files to locate other files on your drive when you return your files. Use a different password naturally.
5: Next you install all your programs next, the more the better as they will run faster on hard drives if they are placed further near the front of the drive.
6: Lastly hook up your external data drive and move just the contents of your Music, Document, Pictures etc folders right back into their respective new folders on the new configuration.
Note: If you used this method to downgrade from Lion. It's possible your iPhoto and iTunes Library (and other Apple programs) may have altered their respective files. You need to be careful replacing the old copies with the newer altered versions. You can right or option click on iPhoto Library to "show package contents" to find the folder with the originals and re-import into the older iPhoto version format. For iTunes, the originals are in the folder, if you have copy of the older iTunes Library files, then replace with those. Ideally it's best to first make a Snow clone first BEFORE messing with Lion.
Note: Only a Mac that had Snow previously can be downgraded from Lion back to Snow, not a Mac that had Lion from the factory (some under certain circumstances)
Restoring OS X - 10.7 - wipe and install
1: Backup your user files via drag and drop methods of your User folders (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies etc) regardless to a data drive as outlined above, as the problem you may be having could be more serious, like a hardware or firmware issue. Disconnect all other drives.
2: You have two options depending upon if your Mac had Snow Leopard previously. If it did, then you can go the above Restoring OS X - 10.6 "fresh install method" and then make a clone, then update to Lion via the AppStore with a very strong, reliable, fast Internet connection.
3: Your Mac came with OS X Lion, then you hold Command R and boot into Lion Recovery Partition, get online, use Disk Utility to Erase (and Zero if needed) the Lion OS X Partition, then quit and simply reinstall Lion from the menu.
Restoring OS X 10.7 (new drive, total reformat method)
1: Backup your user files via drag and drop methods of your User folders (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies etc) regardless to a data drive as outlined above, as the problem you may be having could be more serious, like a hardware or firmware issue. Disconnect all other drives.
This method is for restoring Lion drive completely, including restoring a Lion Recovery Partition and reestablishing a GUID Partition Table (GPT) on the drive for machines that don't have Lion Internet Recovery. This could occur if the hard drive was replaced, the GPT got messed up, more than 2 multi-partition machines or whatever.
As you know Apple only allows one more partition to be created using Disk Utility, any more partitions on the drive require a complete GPT reformat.
2: You need to have a copy of your Lion Recovery Partition on a 1GB or larger USB stick created first using the Lion Recovery Disk Assistant software from Apple that copies YOUR PRESENT Lion Recovery Partition. So that means you need to have this made as soon as possible in advance or your going to have to buy the $69 Lion USB installer if you can't do the 10.6 to 10.7 upgrade method.
Lion Recovery Disk Assistant.
You must first FORMAT the USB GPT and OSX Extended (journ) in Disk Utility before using the Lion Recovery Disk Assistant.
https://support.apple.com/kb/dl1433
3: Stick the USB in, reboot the machine holding option key and get online, use Disk Utility to format the drive
Select media on left, click partition, click big box, select 1 partition, option GUID, format OS X Extended (journ) give it the same drive name as before, (to match pathnames used in your iTunes and other files to locate where music is stored on the drive) Format OS X Extended journaled click Apply and confirm.
Optional for privacy/security or for all new drives for better data retention. Select the drive, erase tab, erase>Security option Zero all data. Takes about a hour per 500GB.
4: Formatting the drive like this will rebuilt the GPT if it was broken. Reinstall Lion from the menu and it will install Lion Recovery Partition and Lion at the same time.
If you have one of those new Mac's with Lion Internet Recovery, it's built into the firmware, so after a new drive install, rebooting should start the whole process automatically.
5: If you have a clone of OS X Lion previously made, then simply option boot from it and reverse clone it onto the OS X Lion Partition. When you clone 10.7 (and only 10.7) it just clones the OS X Lion Partition. Not the Lion Recovery Partition. That's why you need to reinstall the Lion Recovery Partition first (steps 1-4 above) then replace the Lion configuration with the previous cloned version.. You can choose to reverse clone the Lion Partition only, the machine will work without Lion Recovery Partition, but you may have need of it one day.
6: If you don't have a previous clone of your 10.7 OS X partition then when creating the new user, use the same user name as before, this again, like the same drive name as before, matches the pathnames in files iTunes uses to locate other files on your drive when you return your files. Use a different password naturally.
7: Next you install all your programs next, the more the better as they will run faster on hard drives if they are placed further near the front of the drive.
8: Lastly hook up your external data drive and move just the contents of your Music, Document, Pictures, Movies etc folders right back into their respective new folders on the new configuration.
Click on a picture to enlarge, drag and drop onto your desktop for keeping a copy, or use Command Shift 4 to take a picture.

Troubleshooting if a OS X reinstall is necessary
When one is considering a OS X reinstall, it usually means they can't find a specific cause for a issue or series of issues or instability and thereby think that just reinstalling everything will resolve the problem which it will most certainly could, but may not be required to expend that much effort. Not only that, it may not work in your case at all if your problem is in your very own files.
So starting from easiest to hardest you should try steps in this order, save yourself a lot of work and perhaps cure a minor issue quickly.
1: Disconnect backups, backup files if possible
Disconnect any auto-mated backup, including TimeMachine, auto-updating clones, auto-backup software during this period. If you haven't made a backup of your data (like Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies) now is a good time to do that to a external data / storage drive. Disconnect all drives/devices to prevent accidents or other issues from interfering with your judgement. Return to as close to "out of the box" as reasonably possible, with few wireless devices as possible. Always keep a wired mouse and keyboard handy.
1.5 Update your web browser plugins
Adobe Flash and Microsoft Silverlight epecially. For Lion only, Java is now a external plugin. Search "Apple support" for the Java plugin.
2: Perform a Safe Mode boot
Simply hold down the Shift Key while booting, this will disable kernel extension files that programs install upon booting and only use the ones Apple uses. This is especially effective when you boot a Mac and it results in a Grey Screen or "you must restart" (aka "Kernel Panic")
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1455
What you do after this is update your third party programs (or uninstall them using their uninstaller to remove their kext file-s from your System/Library/Extensions folder) that have are perhaps causing your issues.
Problems with kext files usually occurs after a OS X Software Update, so if your in a mission critical environment, it's perhaps best to tread slowly and not update all your machines at one time.
3: Reset the SMC and PRAM
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
4: Grey Screen, Black/Blue Screen, Flashing question mark issues etc.
If you do a Google search: apple support + [issue above] you can easily locate a support document Apple publishes themselves for you to read. Apple updates these support documents and sometimes discontinues some, some are old. Check the revision date to see if it pertains to your system. I could link to them, but because they change it's not as effective as doing the search and determining for yourself.
Ask for help on the forums, be detailed about your issue, the hardware you have, the operating system and the programs you use. We can't see your machine, we only know what you tell us.
5: Check with Disk Utility next
Run the following: In your Applications/Utilities folder Disk Utility > Repair Permissions (ignore the long list, things were changed permanently) also Verify Disk (if this gives a issue, it's a cause for concern, please mention it in the ASC forums for assistance).
If you have a issue after Verifying Disk, you need to (for 10.5 and 10.6 users) hold c and reboot off the 10.5/10.6 OS X installer disk and look for Disk Utilities and Run > Repair Disk (this can only be done while booted off another medium, why it's only "Verify Disk" before).
Once can also run Disk Utiliy > Reapir Permissions from the OS X install disk or Lion Recovery Partition as well if OS X won't boot.
If your on 10.7 Lion as there are no disks, hold command and r keys to boot into the Lion Recovery Partition and perform the same steps with Disk Utility on the OS X Lion Partition. (FYI: a partition is a separate area on the physical drive that appears to the computer to be another one, thus allowing multiple operating systems to be booted from the same drive.)
Hopefully that will resolve your issue, if not or even if it does, bring it to the forums for advice as it could be a sign of further trouble like a failing drive and you will need advice what to do next.
6: Check with OnyX
OnyX is a excellent part of the troubleshooting process, it's initial checks need to be performed and any warning in that regard brought to the forums for advice before proceeding any further.
Your next step is sort of a "nuke the site from orbit" approach by deleting all the computers cache files, which can become corrupt and cause instability. Since one really can't tell which one is causing the issue, the entire lot is allowed to be rebuilt in one massive stroke. So run ALL the cleaning and maintenance steps, you can cancel the in between reboots, but you MUST reboot when finished using OnyX or the cache files are not rebuilt. After rebooting your computer is going to act a little slow, but later return to optimum performance and hopefully your issue would have been resolved.
OnyX doesn't hurt your machine or files or programs, just allows the operating system to rebuild the cache files and perform maintenance tasks. It's not specifically a performance technique, although cleaning and resetting the caches with a reboot can increase the computers performance because whatever was causing the slowdown in the caches is now removed. You don't need to perform OnyX as part of any ritual or routine, OS X is pretty good at handling it's own maintenance.
OnyX also has the ability to check for corrupt preference files under the Verify tab. Corrupt .plist files problems exhibits themselves as programs failing to remember your settings or refusing to launch or hanging. Run the check to show only the corrupt ones and ask on the forums how to proceed to remove those .plist files usually in your Users/Library/Preferences folder (now hidden in Lion) but some are also located in System as well. So it's best to ask or you can use the free Easy Find to locate and delete the file, reboot and relaunch the program, the .plist file gets rebuilt. Again, be careful here as you can remove a essential system file if your not careful.
OnyX can be downloaded free from MacUpdate.com or visiting the Titanium Free developers site, be sure to use the version matched to your operating system version.
(Note: AppleJack is a another troubleshooting program, except it runs in Single User mode, aka a command line, has to be preinstalled ahead of time before problems occur. Benefit here is by holding Command S, you get to run it BEFORE the operating system loads. Works excellently for 10.5/10.6, but it hasn't been updated yet for Lion 10.7, although reports say everything works except the repair permissions portions. It can be found on MacUpdate.com and on Sourceforge.)
7: Create a new user account
2: Create a new user in the System Preferences > Accounts and log into it and use it for awhile, does your problem continue? If not, it means that your issue is localized to the other user account, if you can't find the problem/cure specifically, then consider copying the contents of (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies, not Library) from the problem user account to the new user account via the ~/Users/Shared folder.
When your personal files are in the new user and you are using them there, does your problems return? If so, it's likely something wrong with your files themselves, which you will have to narrow down to the specific one.
8: Application reinstall
3: If your problem continues even in the other user and isn't a user file issue, then that usually means it's a something more global, works across multiple user account's. This could mean a bad program in the Applications folder, or one that starts it's self automatically (look in your log in items in System Preferences > Accounts)
Your next step would be to reinstall all your third party programs, the overwrite may clear the issue up. If you have purchased iLife separately (verses the free version that comes with a new Mac) , reinstall it from disk or redownload it from the AppStore by holding option key and clicking on Purchases. Overwriting the program doesn't overwrite your files, but may overwrite the settings you made in those programs. Also be sure to test the programs in both users.
Note: Some bundled Apple programs can be reinstalled by simply running the installer on the OS X disks that came with the computer. However some like PhotoBooth can only be resinstalled along with the entire OS, unless your willing to extract them manually using the program called Pacifist from CharlesSoft. You likely can avoid having to do that by following the next step.
9: Data recovery drive
If your at this stage, and before you stick that disk into the computer or hold command r to boot into Lion Recovery Partition, you likely need to consider making a "OS X Data Recovery Drive".
This is for those of you haven't managed to get a copy of your files off the computer yet. It can get very hairy after this point if you don't have a backup of your data. Basically your going to use a new external drive to format and install OS X onto, allowing you to hold option and boot off of it to attempt to get a copy of your files off first before doing anything.
So review the steps earlier and the pictures provided to do that first. Having your data safe is of the utmost importance, TimeMachine isn't always best course, have your files easily accessible on a normal storage drive so you can hook it up to any computer (Mac, Windows or Linux).
If you can't create or make a data recovery drive, don't have a backup of any kind, or not confident in proceeding PLEASE seek the assistance of qualified data recovery professionals as everything can be replaced except your data. A few hundred dollars (or even a few thousand for platter level dissection) is nothing compared to losing several thousand man hours of files, or songs or pictures you took on vacation.
10: OS X overwrite
What this does is overwrites the present OS X install with the version that is on the install disks or gotten via the Lion Recovery Partition. Again, make sure you have a copy of your data (Music, Doc's, Pictures and Movies) off the computer before proceeding or make a OS X Data Recovery Drive to assist you if OS X won't boot or run correctly to do it normally.
Key is to match the OS X version. 10.5 disks with installed 10.5, 10.6 disks with 10.6 installed, 10.7 Lion Recovery with 10.7 installed. After using the disks, you need to immediately Software Update to get to the current version, unless the issue you are having occurred after a Software Update, then perhaps it's best to get online and ask questions before applying the updates.
OS X overwrites the installed version with the one you have, it doesn't touch your files or third party programs, and may or may not (depending upon what's on the disk) also overwrite your free iLife bundled on the disks.
Note that your going to perhaps get a older version of iLife than the one installed as it could have been updated via Software Update, so unless a Software update is causing your initial issue, you need to run Software Update immediately afterwards to update iLife (and other Apple bundled programs) to the current version.
The methods for OS X overwrite are mentioned in the above:
        Restoring OS X 10.5 10.6. 10.7 - simple overwrite OS method
11: OS X "fresh install"
The most drastic of all steps, this method first mandates that you have a copy of your files off the boot drive first (to a storage drive, not TimeMachine!), because everything is going bye bye. And the reason you don't want to depend upon TimeMachine is because whatever screwed up your machine has likely also screwed up TimeMachine, not mention the restore problems that occur (especially if your reverting to a earlier OS X version)
TimeMachine is a rotating image backup of your boot drive, it can become totally corrupt eventually from a prolonged issue or even malware as it deletes the old as it makes more recent copies of the new. Apple is always thinking forward and not considering your needs to perhaps revert to a earlier OS X version so restoring TM files to a earleir OS X version likely won't work all that well or won't be allowed. So TM isn't always the best solution for a fresh install. If you can TM restore and it works, by then all means do so, as it's a lot less work than a "fresh install". Use the easy method if you can, but keep your options open in case the hard method is the only way to get what you need done.
The object with a "fresh install" is your only going to save your user files (Music, Documents, Pictures, Movies) and the rest, including the operating system, programs etc. will be erased, the boot drive reformatted, the OS installed and updated, third party programs installed from fresh sources and finally (in case of malware a anti-virus scan on the backup files) returning the files back to the computer.
Instructions for 10.5/10.6 and 10.7 can be found above labeled
    Restoring OS X - 10.6 "fresh install method"
    Restoring OS X - 10.7 - wipe and install
The Restoring OS X 10.7 (new drive, total reformat method) is for the rare cases of a drive replacement, corrupt GPT or a major partition reformatting of the drive where all partitions, including the hidden Lion Recovery Partition, has to be rebuilt/replaced.

Want to take speech to text

Can I get a program you Can talk into and it will type on the computer?

You can try this.
Dragon NaturallySpeaking 11 Home - Windows
Model: 8064894 | SKU: 1239999
Learn more about this software. Whether you don't have time to type, are unable to use a keyboard or simply want an easier way to navigate the world on your computer, there's a smart solution for speeding through computer tasks — without a keyboard and mouse. Dragon NaturallySpeaking 11 Home software offers a simple, hands-free way to search the Web, create documents, send e-mail and more, with the sound of your voice. Daily tasks on the computer fly by at the speed of thought when your speech becomes the ultimate computer controller. The latest version of Dragon NaturallySpeaking Home makes the vast world of the Internet easier to navigate than ever. Want to find a friend on Facebook? Just say "Search Facebook for Jane Doe," and your computer instantly takes you there. Formatting your documents to feature the look you desire has never been easier, now that your computer responds to your every command — just say, "Center the row," and the text obeys. Need to send an e-mail? Simply say, "Send an e-mail to John Smith," and Outlook automatically loads and creates a message to his address. NaturallySpeaking is more true to your words than ever, with 99% accuracy right out of the box that improves as it continues to adjust to your voice. Free yourself of the keyboard, move about using an included wireless headset, and the world won't just be at your fingertips — it will be at your command.
3.3 Read reviews (7)
Sale: $99.99
Dragon Naturally Speaking 11
I DO NOT work for Best Buy. I used to be a Geek Squad Agent for 2 years and this is why I am well versed on their policies and procedures, but I do not work for them anymore. My posts are my own opinions and do not represent any opinions of Best Buy. If you do not like my posts, and want to report me, you can do so by clicking this link and reporting me to the moderators.
---Nearly all virus infections are a result of a problem between chair and keyboard---

Which is the best app to clean my mac? MacKeeper?

i need to know what you recommend me to clean my computer. I have read that MacKeeper is not good at all so i don´t know what should i do.
thanks

If you have a problem, please describe it, rather than your conclusion as to how it should be solved. Otherwise, see below.
How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
4. Beware of malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X used to be so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device should not be a focus of your attention. It should be an almost invisible tool by means of which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Flash Player will NOT work in useless Windows 8.1

I am now regretting upgrading to Windows 8.1 Flash Player (even after following ALL of the reccomended fixes on the forums) will NOT work in Windows 8.1 It is now clear that there is no official fix for this - if there was, Microsoft would put out an update which would fix the problem. As such, we are left with a bunch of patched-together "maybe this will work" unofficial fixes - of which none work.
As with many others with this problem, I have Windows 8.1, 64 bit system with IE 11. Yes, I have the latest flash player installed. Yes, I can see the bouncing ball or whatever the hell it is in the grey box.. or the clouds moving in the other box. Yes, Shockwave in enabled in manage add-ons. Yes, ActiveX Filtering is not checked under Safety. I have gone through this checklist so many times, my head is spinning. The most annoying part when I "test" to see if the latest Flash version is installed (sigh, of course it is) is this message: "You aren't running IE in Windows 8" Well duuhhh. Of course I'm not. I just upgraded to your stupid 8.1 platform.
So is somebody asleep at the switch at Microsoft? They roll out 8.1 and screw everybody who installs it when it doesn't work properly with Flash? Shouldn't they have tested this first? Why hasn't this problem been fixed yet? It is apparent that I'm not the only one who is frustrated beyond the point of seeing white at this incompetence.
Does anyone know if there is a fix coming out for this outrageous error? Or shall we all just sit back and twiddle our thumbs like the gang at Microsoft?

The problem isn't with Flash Player... It's with Internet Exploder. Pages and sites can't recognize the browser, so there's no way imaginable that they'll recognize the plugins in the browsewr they can';t recognize in the first place. Microsoft is (and has been) aware of this problem, and their response is one of denial that would make the Obama adminsitration jealous.
"There's nothing wrong with the browser, it's the entire Internet that's messed up." or "It can't be our browser, it's 3.5 billion users' computers that have the problem."
Microsoft says to use "Compatibility View" and pretend you're using something else. I could never stand Microsoft's 110% pure garbage excuse for a browser, and have ALWAYS used something else.
Firefox (from Mozilla)
Opera (from Opera)
Safari (from Apple)
Chrome (from Google)
ANY of those will work where IE11 won't, with the Flash Player Plug-in (For all other browsers), and Chrome doesn't even need that because it has its own Flash Player plugin built in.
Free yourself from Microsoft. You won't regret it.

What do I do with the results of EtreCheck if I am trying to be proactive? embarrassed grin Can anyone help?

Good morning. This is my machine:
EtreCheck version: 1.9.12 (48)
Report generated July 31, 2014 at 6:52:07 AM EDT
Hardware Information:
iMac (21.5-inch, Mid 2010) (Verified)
iMac - model: iMac11,2
1 3.2 GHz Intel Core i3 CPU: 2 cores
16 GB RAM
Video Information:
ATI Radeon HD 5670 - VRAM: 512 MB
iMac 1920 x 1080
System Software:
OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 2 days 0:35:41
Disk Information:
APPLE HDD HUA722010CLA330 disk0 : (1 TB)
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 999.35 GB (886.28 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5680H
USB Information:
Apple Internal Memory Card Reader
Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
SAMSUNG SAMSUNG_Android
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
FireWire Information:
LaCie Rugged FW/USB 800mbit - 800mbit max
disk1s1 (disk1s1) <not mounted>: 32 KB
LaCie (disk1s3) /Volumes/LaCie: 499.97 GB (139.69 GB free)
Gatekeeper:
Mac App Store and identified developers
Launch Daemons:
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[not loaded] com.adobe.SwitchBoard.plist Support
[loaded] com.google.keystone.daemon.plist Support
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist Support
Launch Agents:
[not loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
[loaded] com.adobe.CS5ServiceManager.plist Support
[running] com.brother.LOGINserver.plist Support
[loaded] com.divx.dms.agent.plist Support
[loaded] com.divx.update.agent.plist Support
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist Support
[loaded] com.hp.help.tocgenerator.plist Support
User Launch Agents:
[loaded] com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist Support
[loaded] com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist Support
[failed] com.apple.CSConfigDotMacCert-[...]@me.com-SharedServices.Agent.plist
[not loaded] com.google.Chrome.framework.plist Support
User Login Items:
iTunesHelper
MacLWSLauncher
AdobeResourceSynchronizer
EvernoteHelper
Caffeine
Android File Transfer Agent
Dropbox
VerizonUpdateCenter
WidgetRunner
Google Drive
RealPlayer Downloader Agent
EvernoteHelper
Kodak Share Button Agent
HP Product Research
HPEventHandler
Internet Plug-ins:
o1dbrowserplugin: Version: 5.4.2.18903 Support
OVSHelper: Version: 1.1 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 2.4.4.2 Support
RealPlayer Plugin: Version: (null) Support
AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.07 - SDK 10.6 Support
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 14.0.0.145 - SDK 10.6 Support
DivX Web Player: Version: 3.2.1.977 - SDK 10.6 Support
Silverlight: Version: 5.1.20513.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
Flash Player: Version: 14.0.0.145 - SDK 10.6 Support
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - SDK 10.8
googletalkbrowserplugin: Version: 5.4.2.18903 Support
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.07 - SDK 10.6 Support
CouponPrinter-FireFox_v2: Version: Version 1.1.9 - SDK 10.5 Support
SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.4.3 - SDK 10.6 Support
WidevineMediaOptimizer: Version: 6.0.0.12757 - SDK 10.7 Support
JavaAppletPlugin: Version: 14.9.0 - SDK 10.7 Check version
Safari Extensions:
Conduit Search for Safari: Version: 1.0
Audio Plug-ins:
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins:
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
User Internet Plug-ins:
ConduitNPAPIPlugin: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.6 Support
Picasa: Version: 1.0 Support
3rd Party Preference Panes:
Flash Player Support
Flip4Mac WMV Support
Growl Support
Time Machine:
Skip System Files: NO
Auto backup: YES
Volumes being backed up:
Macintosh HD: Disk size: 930.71 GB Disk used: 105.30 GB
Destinations:
LaCie [Local] (Last used)
Total size: 465.64 GB
Total number of backups: 210
Oldest backup: 2011-01-02 19:28:34 +0000
Last backup: 2014-07-31 10:04:28 +0000
Size of backup disk: Adequate
Backup size 465.64 GB > (Disk used 105.30 GB X 3)
Time Machine details may not be accurate.
All volumes being backed up may not be listed.
Top Processes by CPU:
      2% Dropbox
      2% WindowServer
      1% RealPlayer Downloader Agent
      0% fontd
      0% launchservicesd
Top Processes by Memory:
262 MB Finder
229 MB mds_stores
213 MB com.apple.IconServicesAgent
164 MB Evernote
164 MB Numbers
Virtual Memory Information:
10.43 GB Free RAM
3.78 GB Active RAM
560 MB Inactive RAM
1.24 GB Wired RAM
8.88 GB Page-ins
0 B Page-outs

I stumbled upon a forum discussion of EtreCheck. It seemed like a good way to be proactive for problems
It isn't. Below is a good way to be proactive for problems.
How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. Cleaning caches is not an end in itself.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your disk/SSD. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Wheel of death followed by Hard Drive Crash Prevention?

O.k. So after having my macbook pro 2012 for some reason starting up very slowly and then constantly getting the wheel to the point where it took several minutes for ANYTHING to load, Steam not updating and other applications starting up only to fail, and my constant having to shut the computer down to try and get it to work, eventually the hard drive just gave up on me and I had to use the disk utility program which failed to verify or repair the damage, so I had to erase everything and start again from scratch. Luckily I had no work data that I really needed to save and if I do need to, I can probably redo it from scratch, but I did lose iMovie (replaced for now with wondershare), a couple of video files of games for my youtube channel, all my microsoft documents, and a couple of other programs that I probably should have gotten rid of to start with. Everything else, mainly my gaming data is saved on Steam and other apps, so no damage done there thankfully, but I would like to prevent this from happening in the future. For starters, yes I plan to get a terabyte external hard drive for backing up my data purposes, and I will be making sure to shut down my computer before I take it somewhere, closing apps and making sure multiple don't start up as well when I log back in, (I had a habit of leaving it on sleep mode more often than I should have even when traveling with it.) I also have gotten a clean my mac 2 app if the issue starts up again and I start to experience a slowing mac to help me clean up any extra files I don't really need, and I'm gonna make sure to look at my activity monitor and make sure that some apps aren't still running when I don't want them to. Any other suggestions that might help me avoid this error in the future? My Mac is working again fine now, and for the record, I've had it for 2 or so years now and I don't think it's in bad shape at all, so I don't think I need to replace the hard drive completely. I ask this because I've seen a lot of people have similar issues and I'm sure we all would want to make sure this doesn't happen again, and we also want to make sure we can fix it before it becomes a problem and we have to hit the reset button on our hard drives. Any help would be appreciated! (I probably will take it to an apple store next time and ask about it before I reset it again though if this comes up.)

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. Cleaning caches is not an end in itself.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your disk/SSD. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What is the best way to keep your macbook pro in tip top condition. performance wise

What is the best way to keep the performance of a macbook pro in tip top shape. Over the years my computer seems to act like a pc with all of its hicups and lockups.
I am running mountain lion and this computer is approx 2 years old.
Not sure if there is some sort of software that will help with this or is there something else I can do.
Thanks
GAJ

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of trouble with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac" and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for, and doesn't change the way other software works.
Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception to the above rule. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform. A computing device is not something you should have to think about very much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that is always whining for your attention like a neurotic dog, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

Question about Software Updates in the Netherlands

Hello all,
! am new to the Netherlands and plan to buy the Lumia 1020. I have a question regarding FW updates over here:
Which network delivers the fastest updates generally or does the un-locked (country specific) phone get it first?
Also, if i choose to buy the phone on contract here, after the expiry of the contract, do i have to unlock the phone or will the provider do it for me? (Assuming that the phones are locked to the network in the first place, if not, please let me know!)
PS: I come from India, where we don't have phones on contracts and also receive updates very quickly!

hi mate,
generally if you want to free yourself from the constraints of networks, your best bet is to purchase an unlocked, unbranded handset from in-store or online. bear in mind that if you buy a handset from origin of another country in the EU, the warranty will still apply, but buy a 1020 that has a product code from outside the EU, then the warranty won't apply. something to be careful about.
as for operators delivering updates faster than others, this varies between updates, and really noone is able to predict this. as for the unlocking, that is between you and your network carrier, Nokia has nothing to do with this.

Dw6 fluid grid layout

trying to make sense of the fluid grid layout.
can you use <div class> in fluid grid layout?
is it best to only insert divs using the fluid grid layout div?
when you insert a new fluid grid div what is the difference between entering a new line or not?
the html structure seems to be the same regardless of if you start a new line or not, am i wrong?
any help would be appreciated!

Ben Pleysier wrote:
It's not my code, just rubbish I pulled out of the Bootstrap example sites....plenty more like that........ how about this beauty:
<div class="spb-row-container spb-row-full-width spb_parallax_asset sf-parallax parallax-window-height parallax-fixed spb_content_element bg-type-cover col-sm-12 no-shadow hidden-xs remove-element-spacing col-natural" data-v-center="true" data-top-style="" data-bottom-style="" data-midnight="dark" style="background-color:#009fc2;margin-top:0px;margin-bottom:0px;background-image: url(http://www.thesign.pt/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/FM.jpg);">
I thought we were talking about Bootstrap. No Bootstrap in the above.
<body class="html not-front not-logged-in no-sidebars page-node page-node- page-node-1172 node-type-static-page not-mobile region-content navbar-is-fixed-top" onunload="">
No Bootstrap here either.
<div class="col-lg-3 col-md-4 col-md-offset-1 col-sm-4 col-sm-offset-1 col-xs-22 col-xs-offset-2 col-lg-offset-0">
Please allow me to explain. Bootstrap is based on 12 columns regardless of screen size. Translating the above we get the following for each of the screen sizes
large 3 cols offset 0
medium 4 cols offset 1
small 4 cols offset 1
extra small 22 cols offset 2
Our attention immediately falls on the extra small device with 22 columns that are 2 columns offset, total 24 columns. How can this be when there are only 12 columns available. Why would one have offset columns on the smallest screen size when we are already battling for real-estate. I think that if we make the classes believable we can safely ignore the classes for the extra small device. Continuing, we see the same number of columns for medium and small and the same offset. Being a mobile first approach, the classes that we assign to small will filter through to larger screen sizes making the classes for medium screen sizes ineffective. Looking at the 0 offset for large screen sizes?? Why do that when it is the default value. In other words, had Bootstrap been applied properly, the tag would look like
<div class="col-sm-4 col-sm-offset-1 col-lg-3">
The other two examples are even more ridiculous. Once again, I implore you to start learning Bootstrap and you will come to the conclusion that you are supplying us with gibberish.
I'm not supplying the gibberish it's the many websites that rely on frameworks, be they Bootstrap/Foundation/Wordpress - whatever rubbish they are using that I'm lifting this code from that are supplying it.
Take the Bootstrap form - every form input field I observe is wrapped in a <div> tag, why - it's bloated and redundant coding. Bootstrap, much like Wordpress was never invented to be used to build websites.
That IS my whole point - there are numerous examples of where Bootstrap IS NOT being used properly because people rely on something they no nothing about and end up with verbose class names splattered around all over their pages, bloated js and css scripts because they are the default files which come with Bootstrap.
<div class="col-sm-4 col-sm-offset-1 col-lg-3"> to me this is still nasty and overly complex 'class' mark-up. A page full of this tripe would drive me insane.
The very worst people you could advise to use Bootstrap are the people in this forum because most will have little knowledge of coding (that's why they turn to a framework) and end up with a page full of crap.
And I'm not verbalising you - you said it yourself. People use lots of 'short cuts' - it doesnt mean it's a good approach to take. No ones re-inventing the wheel apart from Bootstrap, who are obviously trying too. Media queries already exist to produce responsive design, learn how to implement them and free yourself from being entrapped by frameworks where you have to use their naming convention, their break points by default, their over bloated js and css files and somethimes rubbish html mark-up.

What is the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac?

What do you recommend as the best 'cleaning system' for the Mac!

How to maintain a Mac
Make two or more backups of all your files
One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
Keep your software up to date
In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
Don't install crapware
...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
Avoid malware
"Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
Don't fill up your disk or SSD
A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
Relax, don’t do it
Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

What are good maintenance apps for Mac mini

What is a good free app for the Mac mini for maintenance?

How to maintain a Mac
1. Make two or more backups of all your files, keeping at least one off site at all times in case of disaster. One backup is not enough to be safe. Don’t back up your backups; all should be made directly from the original data. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
2. Keep your software up to date. In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of problems with system updates.
3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. Cleaning caches is not an end in itself.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
4. Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts. Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions. Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
5. Avoid malware. Malware is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but malware is now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
6. Don't fill up your disk/SSD. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
7. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention, use a PC.
The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

RE: Orbix verses Visibroker) FREE YOURSELF of languageconstraints!

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