Screw size ? Dynex flat panel tv DX-32 E250A12

TV stand bracket screw (4) size and screw size for the cove (4) ( that attaches toTV back ) that the stand bracket mounts to

According to the manual for the TV (see here), it should be the SJ4 16mm screws.
Alex M. | Best Buy Mobile - State College, PA (Store 369)
Any opinions expressed in this post are those of
the author and do not represent Best Buy Co., Inc.

Similar Messages

Superdrive replacement in flat panel iMac

I have seen this addressed in bits and pieces on many different forums, so I figured it was about time to try and get this information in a place where it could be easily found.
The problems encountered by many iMac G4 flat panel users with their superdrives seem to have only one common solution.......replacement of the drive.
There are numerous fixes that at best are temporary solutions to a problem that will only get worse until the drive fails completely.
This model iMac seems to be extremely susceptable to the accumulation of dust, which in turn causes the internal parts to overheat, which probably leads to premature failure of the laser components of the drive.
In 10.4, the common error is related to laser power calibration failure, in which the laser is unable to either read or write to the disk in order to determine the correct write speed for that disk.
Earlier versions list similar problems, but the wording is different.
Using a different type of media can be a temporary solution, if the problem is just beginning, but at best, probably a few burns is all you will get.
Using a lens cleaner will help in some cases, but also temporarily if internal dust is the culprit.
Other solutions, including burning to a disk image, then using disk utility to burn the dvd will also work, occasionally, as will creating a new user account.
The ultimate solution is replacement of the optical drive, and a good internal cleaning of the iMac.
Cleaning alone may solve the problem, however, since you already have the unit disassembled, and the optical drive removed for proper cleaning, it is best to go ahead and replace the drive, since the newer, dual layer, 16x drives are relatively inexpensive, some for under $40.00 US. Also a good time to install that new HD since it is removed along with the optical assembly, and even a little extra ram.
You should be aware that doing this yourself will no doubt conflict with Applecare, if you have it, but on older models without the warranty, most people should be able to do this themselves.
This URL .......http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/iMacg4/imacg4takeapart.html...........provides a take apart guide and step by step directions to replacing the components, and is very easy to follow. Make sure that if you don't have a second computer, that you print these pages prior to beginning disassembly of your iMac.
It is really not as complicated as it looks, and if you have any mechanical ability, and a little patience, it can be easily done within an hour.
Also be aware that if you install a dual layer drive, You will not be able to access the dual layer feature in iDvd unless you install a patch from this website........http://www.hardmac.com/niouzcontenu.php?date=2005-05-26#4090.............the file name is MBiDVD4ALLDUAL.sit.
This will allow you to use those dual layer disks with iDvd.
There are numerous drives that will work in your flat panel iMac, personally, I installed the Pioneer 110D, and so far, it has worked perfectly, including burning the dual layer disks.
The 110 is actually slightly smaller than the original drive, and was easier to install, than the other model was to remove. Most drives are standardized in size, and all mounting screws positioned in the same place, so as long as the drive you choose is not larger than your original, it should work.
I hope this helps a few of you out, I know about the time I spent searching for answers before finally giving up and just buying the new drive.
You sure won't regret being able to burn at 16x, or getting those ninety minute movies on one disk.
Good Luck
Pazuita

Hello Pazuita,
I think you meant to post this in the imac area of the Discussion forum, this is the Feedback forum.
The info you have complied would be best posted there.
Eme :~{)

Urgent - iMac G4 Flat Panel - Is Adding Monitor or Flat Screen TV Possible?

Hello,
As a present to my husband (mac guru) I would like to know if with his iMac Flat Panel G4, is it better to buy a 28 inch samsung computer monitor (flat panel) that he can also hook up his mac to or a kind of flat screen/panel LCD TV. The guys at futureshop and bestbuy seem to be "confused" when talking about macs and not pcs. With the computer monitor, there seems to be questions on if we'll be able to hook up our satellite tv... and with the tvs, there seems to be confusion on if we can hook up the computer. One of the reasons I want to hook the computer directly is my husband has had problems converting (burning to DVD) some videos with music background from iPhoto without doing a software update which requires us to change the timing with the audio and video in our already created slideshows. Please help quickly as some sales finish tomorrow. I need to know what to tell the store... i.e. what kind of jack or cables or capability I am looking for. Do I ask for USB port, coaxil input or what? Thanks in advance,
Karen

Yes you can connect a display or monitor but exactly which ones depends on which iMac G4 you have.
All iMac G4s have a Mini VGA port this will allow you to connect any standard PC Monitor (with a VGA connector) and mirror the iMac's internal display only. The later iMac G4's also allow the connection of S-Video and Composite Video devices (most TV's have this type of input) which allows you to mirror the display on to the TV.
The MiniVGA to VGA and Mini VGA to S-Video/Composite adaptors are for sale online in the Apple Store ($19US/£15) or here.
If you wanted to extend the screen size again it is possible on some iMacs but requires a firmware hack that will invalidate your warranty.
I can't understand how having an external display will solve the burning to DVD issues though.....
Post back with your Screen size and processor speed for exact info - or read this recent post
regards
mrtotes

IMac G4 flat panel with slow mouse and ever-whirring fan

hi there -
my lovely iMac has treated me well for some time now, but gradually over the course of many months, it decided that it will not stop running it's fan, even when it seems cool it the touch and the room is cool. The noise is loud enough to drown out quiet music, and usually kicks in if the computer has been off overnight within about 15-20 minutes of startup, never to stop. i ave tried giving her space, moving the routers etc away, but alas...
also, my mac has become prone to freezing the mouse quite often, but unplugging the mouse and replugging it seems to always fix it for a bit, but only temporarily - like 3 minutes or so sometimes, sometimes it's fine for longer after unplugging but just slow to react. and while it never used to freeze up altogether, it now quite often does.
we have a good amount of programs and music, but i don't know enough about computers to know how much is too much. we always try to keep as little running as possible - i.e. just netscape, or netscape and itunes, or just itunes. here are my computer's stats:
iMac G4 flat panel, 700MHZ Power PC G4 768 MB SD RAM
i don't know if this is helpful, but:
capacity on hard drive:38.15 GB available: 2.87
any thoughts from you experts out there would be so very greatly appreciated. i love my little mac dearly, and don't want to see her bite the dust if all it would take is a little preemptive work! please help.
iMac g4 flatscreen Mac OS X (10.4.8)

My interpretation of the information you noted about the capacity of the
hard disk drive and the remaining free-space, is indicative of too-full a
hard disk drive so that could be the main problem. Instead of less than
10% capacity remaining unused, you need to have more like 20% free.
There also is a chance there could be bad sectors or some low-level
corruption on the hard disk drive, in part due to it being too full and
the drive is also using alot of space normally used as virtual memory
by the system, so these small remaining places not filled all the time
are being re-used and that could force the machine to cannabalize
other data stored on the hard disk drive while the OS is looking for
VM (virtual memory is automatically allotted and maintained by the
system, by using hard drive free space; all applications and utilities
on the computer use, need, and look for it.)
Other causes of kernel panics could be related to hardware or software.
Since the hard disk drive is extremely suspect, that is a place to start.
The use of an external FireWire hard disk drive to save some files to,
may be helpful; setting up a new external FW HDD may be hard since
your computer maybe too full to get and use a cloning utility (superdooper
or carbon copy cloner) but you may be able to save some items to CD
or DVD-R media; and then start moving the originals of your saved work
from the computer to the trash. A utility such as What Size can be handy
to see what files are huge, where they are (and note system files are not
the ones you need to toss; user generated ones are) and delete some.
If the hard drive has sufficient damage from over-writing data, it may
need to be replaced. If not, it may need to be totally erased and the
Disk Utility used to zero old data and reformat. This is where a working
copy (clone) on an external drive could be re-cloned back into a Mac
from an earlier capture of the healthy system, and save alot of time in
the restoration process; since a clone does not require all the installer
discs to get a full system back. It does require forethought and action
before a problem; and making backups of your system off the computer.
I make complete computer hard drive copies with a clone utility; but these
are not automatic. It is possible to set up a computer with an automatic
backup system to make ongoing clones of the complete internal drive.
The slowness of your system and peripherials is most likely the full
hard disk drive; and/or issues resulting from that. I suspect this area
is one requiring action and may be just a starting point to fix damages.

Flat panel tv.

I am new to the flat panel tv market and I was just wondering what the best specifications on a flat screen are. Any help would be appreciated.

You haven't stated wether you wanted LCD or Plasma...so I will begin with that from an excerpt I have posted elsewhere....
Although the debate between LCD and plasma has raged on for years, the real battle only started two years ago when manufacturers started producing LCDs big enough to go head to head with plasmas. Now that it has been raging for two years, we've seen some interesting trends develop. LCDs have been very successful at pushing plasma out of its most popular size, 42-inches, and some manufacturers have stopped producing that size all together. Also a result of the success of LCDs, the number of plasma manufactures has decreased over the past two years. Pioneer is the most notable to announce its plan to stop producing its own plasmas starting with the next model and will instead buy glass from Panasonic, but Hitachi and Phillips have also announced similar plans -- and Fujitsu got out of the display business all together. Some might use these events combined with the latest green movement to conclude that plasma is dead, but not so fast.
Plasmas still offer the best value in the 50+ sizes and the best contrast and color reproduction -- which any videophile will tell you is way more important than brightness, which seems to be sole reason why the masses prefer LCD. And plasmas aren't completely in the grave yet -- in fact, most of the biggest manufactures still sell plasmas including Panasonic, Samsung, LG, Hitachi, Pioneer, and Vizio. In fact, recently things have actually started to turn around for the PDP sector. The most notable trend is that the latest plasmas from Hitachi, Pioneer, LG, and Panasonic all pass the latest stringent Energy Star requirements of the 208-Watt "on mode" and less than 1-Watt "standby mode." And the market is showing this comeback as well which is indicated by the latest DisplaySearch report which showed that plasma sales grew by 37 percent year-over-year in the third quarter of 2008 -- in a time that is very hard time for any market to show growth.
So while no technology can be successful forever, plasma has at the very least a few years left, and we believe it won't be LCD that will kill it. The only technology that actually seems poised to replace it is OLED, and with the biggest (and only) consumer model at 11-inches, there is plenty of time left on the clock for plasmas. That being said, we only see two main markets for plasmas moving forward as LCDs continue to grow in size and shrink in price. The first being videophiles who demand the best contrast and color money can buy, and the second being value shoppers looking for a way to buy a 60-inch TV for as close to $2000 as possible. But with the latest LCD LED-backlit displays making huge strides in color and contrast, and Laser TVs hitting the streets, anyone who tells you they know what is going to happen in the next 18 to 24 months has no idea what they're talking about.

Did we kill our flat panel

my wife's 17- usb2 flat panel was having occasional crashes, so it occurred to me that it could use more ram. I didn't feel like opening the bottom, so I bought the computer to a repair shop that works on macs. he put a stick of kingston memory in the factory-installed slot bringing up to 1 gig. we brought the computer home and turned it on. It was fine for a half hour when it suddenly went dark (not asleep, dark). We restarted and got an "Open firmware" window and a graphic that looked like either scribble or a thousand computer chips. I restarted and heard a squeal (like a high D), then got the open firmware window. A few restarts later, we got the computer running, but there were odd lines through the screen.
at that point, I shut it down and opened it up and replaced the ram back to the original, carefully using my torx screw driver. I closed it up, turned on the machine and it worked fine — for twenty minutes when it went dark and this time refused to wake up.
I opened it again and rechecked to make sure the ram was slotted. it was. turned it on, got the chime and nothing, as if it won't access the ram or anything. I don't hear the disk drive turning, just the hum of the machine. I tried command option O-F (someone had success with that), but no luck.
anyone have any suggestions? Is this computer toast?
thanks for any advice,
jeff

jeffisme wrote:
my wife's 17- usb2 flat panel was having occasional crashes, so it occurred to me that it could use more ram. I didn't feel like opening the bottom, so I bought the computer to a repair shop that works on macs. he put a stick of kingston memory in the factory-installed slot bringing up to 1 gig. we brought the computer home and turned it on. It was fine for a half hour when it suddenly went dark (not asleep, dark). We restarted and got an "Open firmware" window and a graphic that looked like either scribble or a thousand computer chips. I restarted and heard a squeal (like a high D), then got the open firmware window. A few restarts later, we got the computer running, but there were odd lines through the screen.
at that point, I shut it down and opened it up and replaced the ram back to the original, carefully using my torx screw driver. I closed it up, turned on the machine and it worked fine — for twenty minutes when it went dark and this time refused to wake up.
I opened it again and rechecked to make sure the ram was slotted. it was. turned it on, got the chime and nothing, as if it won't access the ram or anything. I don't hear the disk drive turning, just the hum of the machine. I tried command option O-F (someone had success with that), but no luck.
anyone have any suggestions? Is this computer toast?
thanks for any advice,
jeff
Take it back and have that stick removed, the new RAM. Sometimes bad RAM or incompatible RAM will do that. Worth a shot.

Upgrading iMac Flat Panel 1.25

Forgive me if I am asking something that has already been asked. I have the "Lamp" version of the iMac G4, 1.25 GHZ. I have a few problems.
Last year I moved my itunes library to an external HD (Mercury Elite 800gb). It was a striped drive and it soon failed, to the point where it would only show up for a few minutes before disappearing. It has been a tedious task to manually move my iTunes back to another external drive before I can send it back to OWC.
I am not ready to buy a new Mac, so I want to make this one work for as long as possible. I am not sure I want to risk using the external drive (which is now jam packed- I'd rather us it as a backup!) I want to load Leopard on my iMac and I want to upgrade to an external drive of at least 160 gb (but would like more, maybe a budget of $100. I saw a WD Caviar for about that price.
Is this a bad idea? I am also worried about the install. Can I put the old drive in an external enclosure and then install Leopard on the new drive (I was thinking about partitioning as well). I am not very technical as far as doing the removal of the old drive myself, especially with this flat panel mac, but I have someone who can do this for me. What type of drive do I need to get? Is there a size limit?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated!

Not sure about the Western Digital Caviar drives; that may be fine, but I'd try
a Hitachi or maybe Seagate, etc. Some companies offer a PATA drive, and
if you get the correct specs in that, with a decent buffer and spin rate, it
could offer a good performance boost in read/write and virtual memory access.
Also, real memory upgrades; chip RAM is a good investment. In some cases,
you won't hardly see the performance difference unless you look into the
Activity Monitor utility to see how much of the CPU and Memory is in use.
A larger faster drive with a 16MB buffer, and plenty of free space for the
system and virtual memory functions to work, would almost be like a new Mac.
The iMac G4 1.25 computer can use up to 2GB of RAM; be sure to choose the
highest quality for the most inside RAM slot, since you don't want it to fail once
you have gotten it put together again properly; and I mean careful use of thermo
paste in the correct places, and a careful and clean job. While in there, the clock
battery is a prime candidate for removal and replacement, with a recent dated one.

Mixing RAM Speeds In iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel?

I'm just checking here.
I have an iMac G4 1GHz 17" Flat-Panel, Model M8935LL/A (USB 1.1 version) that currently has the standard 256MB PC2100 (266 MHz) RAM module installed in the factory slot, and a 512MB PC2700 (333 MHz) RAM module installed in the bottom (user-accessible) slot. I bought the machine direct from Apple, so despite the "official" spec (which calls for PC2100 RAM in both slots), it's obvious that Apple knows PC2700 RAM will work in that machine. My understanding is that the faster PC2700 RAM simply downclocks to accommodate the lower 266 MHz bus speed of the M8935LL/A. As I understand the DDR SDRAM spec, any DDR SDRAM (PC1600 through PC3200) module will simply overclock or underclock to accommodate the host bus speed...but feel free to correct me if I'm mistaken on that point.
I'm fixing to upgrade the hard drive to a larger capacity model. I've done it before, so I know it's no picnic. Since I have to go past the factory RAM slot anyway to change the hard drive, I figure I might as well upgrade the internal RAM to the full 1GB limit. (Yes...I know Apple says you can't exceed 512MB in either slot, so please—no remonstrances about sticking to Apple's spec. The spec is wrong.)
Obviously, it's possible to mix the two RAM speeds between the two slots, since Apple shipped the computer that way. Here are my questions:
• Is there any downside to going the other way when I upgrade the RAM—that is, putting a 1GB PC2700 (184-pin) module in the factory slot, and a 1GB PC2100 (200-pin) module in the user slot? The reason I ask is because my preferred supplier (OWC) can't supply me with both modules in the same speed.
• Is there any performance advantage in both modules being the same speed—that is, both PC2100 or both PC2700? If not, I'll just buy the one of each speed that OWC has available.
Thanks!

jjw wrote:
So, you know have 2Gb available in your flat screen imac?
Yes indeed—2GB confirmed as available by Apple System Profiler. Both modules are PC2700. Everything is working fine.
I guess I can understand why Apple discourages users from replacing the 184-pin "factory slot" module. There's not a whole lot of slack in the motherboard connector cables, so it's best to disconnect them in order to get the bottom section to lie flat on the workbench. I suppose some folks might be hesitant about disconnecting things, but it's really quite simple, and involves only three connectors. After having changed the hard drive a few years ago, replacing the RAM was a piece of cake by comparison.
A word of caution to anyone who's going to attempt it, though. There are TWO heat sink interfaces between the bottom section (where the motherboard is mounted) and the top dome. Those heat sink surfaces are coated with thermal paste at the factory, but the compound dries out over time, becoming a rubbery membrane between the heat sink surfaces. Once you separate the top and bottom sections, the membrane rips apart, and the firm connection between the heat sink surfaces is permanently gone. It's a bad idea to simply put them back together after you change the RAM module; you won't get a good thermal connection.
The solution is to scrape all of the old rubbery compound off all four surfaces (two on the bottom and two on the top section). I did it with a piece of PVC, but you can use anything with a sharp edge that won't scratch the metal surface—even your fingernails will work, unless the old compound has dried out to the point where it's hard. After you scrape the old gunk off, apply new thermal paste to all four surfaces.
The other maintenance item you can perform while you're in there is cleaning out all the dust, which accumulates in vast quantities and interferes with cooling. I vacuumed it out with a plastic crevice tool, being careful NOT to touch any of the components with the tool. Vacuuming can build up a static charge on the tool, especially in dry environments, and high static voltages aren't friendly to microprocessors. I used a securely grounded anti-static wrist strap throughout the entire operation, and even wrapped it around the vacuum tool.
Good luck!

Mac Mini to G4 iMac Flat Panel display ???

Just scanned some pages back in this forum and couldn't see this as a topic-so I'll ask.
I was wondering, if I had a 17" Flat Panel imac (even the 800Ghz version, or the 1Ghz or the !.25Ghz - or event the 20" [yummmmy] ) could I drive the mac mini via the iMacG4's highly versatile flat panel display ???
[ideally I'd love to be able to re-engineer the Flat Panel's guts with smaller but faster CPU etc - and as machine innards get smaller maybe this will be possible - because the screen tilt and swivel is so versatile; eh!)]
gregg

Hmm - why did myinnermostthoughts sudenly become a hyperlink - or is it a hyperjump into the final frontier of cyber-computing???
Anyway, but I had hoped to just plug a keyboard into 2005 'Twiggy" , use a VGA adaptor/er between the two machines, and use the 1.42 Ghz speed of the 'Twiggy' to display stuff (CS2 etc) on the Flat Panel's display (oxymoronic word usage here - I suppose). The Flat Panels do have an vga port - so why cant the cable go from the mac mini to the VGA port of the iMac ??? Are you saying ti's almost impossible - or are you refering to re-engineering???
Gregg

Cant get Apple TV to work properly with older flat panel TV.

I have an older flat panel, a 42" philips 42pf9630a. This one:
http://www.retrevo.com/support/Phili.../278bh337/t/2/
I plugged my brand new Apple TV into the HDMI and switched input on the TV. I can see the Apple TV main menu but it blips in and out, toggling between the main menu and snow. Obviously there's some sort of communication issue between the Apple TV and my Philips. I have successfully used this apple TV on several other TV's in the past couple of months.
Is it because my TV is too old? Any suggestions on what I can do to fix this??
Thanks for your help!

Go in to the network and sharing center (in control panel), with the pc connected by wire. Right inder the little "map" of her network, it will list the available networks (probably only one listed), click customize and set it to private, you can also name it if you want so its more easily identified.
Also, make sure file sharing and network discovery are "on".
Message Edited by Frunple on 03-17-200705:50 AM

17" flat panel Mac can no longer get on my Airport Extreme network

My 17" G4 flat panel iMac can't get on my Airport Extreme network. It has been on the network for years. All of a sudden I can't get on my own network. The Airport extreme uses a WAP2 Security password. Everything else in my home is on this network ie. Blu-Ray players, Wii, Nintendo DS's, MacBook, Apple TV. The G4 doesn't even have WAP2 as an option! Where did the option go? I really don't wanna set up the network again with a WEP password(That's an option on the G4) and have to reset everything. What happened?

There were two 17" flat-panel G4 iMacs. The earlier of the two (Part# M8812LL/A) had an optional AirPort Card. This card only supports 802.11b and either the WEP or WPA security standards. It does not WPA2. This may be the reason the G4 is not able to connect to your wireless network if you have it configured for WPA2 Personal.
You will need to reconfigure the AirPort to use the "WPA/WPA2 Personal" option.

How to connect an old ADC flat panel to the new Mac mini?

I am thinking of getting one of these new Mac mini's for the kids in the den and I have an old 20" flat panel ADC from Apple that is still going strong. Is there an adapter that will work with this configuration?
Thanks,
West

Somewhat ungainly, but you'll need the mini-DVI-DVI adaptor (supplied with the new mini), and a DVI-ADC adaptor (http://store.apple.com/us/product/M8661LL/B?fnode=MTY1NDA5OQ&mco=MjE0NTg4NA)

Is it possible to use old Apple Flat Panel Display (62 watt power adapter) with MacBookPro 13" Mid-2012 running 10.8.4? Tried mini display to VGA cable

Is it possible to use old Apple Flat Panel Display (62 watt power adapter) with a MacBookPro 13" Mid-2012 laptop? Would like to use larger screen when working at home. I have a mini display port to VGA cable and have tried to hook up the old display but it seems not to work. When I try to activate the screen on the old display-- a window comes up in the MacBookPro and asks me if I want to shut down the computer. What little I have read it that the MacBookPro had Thunderbolt and the old display may not be compatible? Any assistance would be appreciated.

quax88 wrote:
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: scan email files
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: I will quarantine infected files
This doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but it will likely cause other issues with your e-mail.
Here's my standard recommendation concerting the use of A-V software to deal with potentially infected messages:
Never use ClamXav (or any other A-V software) to move (quarantine) or delete e-mail. It will corrupt the mailbox index which could cause loss of other e-mail and other issues with functions such as searching. It may also leave the original e-mail on your ISP's e-mail server and will be re-downloaded to your hard drive the next time you check for new mail.
So, if you choose to "Scan e-mail content for malware and phishing" in the General Preferences, make sure you do not elect to either Quarantine or Delete infected files.
When possibly infected e-mail files are found:
Right-click/Control-click on either the infection or file name in the ClamXav window.
Select "Reveal In Finder" from the pop-up menu.
When the window opens, double-click on the file to open the message in your e-mail client application.
Read the message and if you agree that it is junk/spam/phishing then use the e-mail client's delete button to delete it (this is especially important when the word "Heuristics" appears in the infection name).
If you disagree and choose to retain the message, return to ClamXav and choose "Exclude From Future Scans" from the pop-up menu.
If this is a g-mail account and those messages continue to show up after you have deleted them in the above manner, you may need to log in to webmail using your browser, go to the "All Mail" folder, find the message(s) and use the delete button there to permanently delete them from the server.
To fix the corrupted mailbox index(es), highlight each one that was corrupted and choose Rebuild from the appropriate menu.

Mac will no longer turn on - iMac G4 (Flat Panel)

I have an iMac G4 (Flat Panel) that will not turn on. I've tried to obvious things such as changing the power lead/fuse etc., but this hasn't solved it. If you hold the power button in you can hear a faint 'ticking' sound coming from inside the Mac, but it doesn't power up. I'm guessing something more serious has 'blown' inside, but I have no idea whether it's a lost cause, or something that could be easily fixed. Any ideas?

Hello Matt,
I have the same problem you describe. You may want to try what I did to bring the iMac back on. I just leave it alone for a day, with the power cord disconnected. Then I try my luck by connecting the power cord back and start up again. Some patience is needed here as I am successful only after half a dozen of retries. I also hold the power button until I see the lights on the mouse comes on.
Once ON everything works fine..software restart is not an issue either..just dont shut down..then u may have to to wait another day to try again..I was lucky four times and did this in the past week. ..can be frustrating but lucky i still have the G5 to use.
I dont have the proper solution to the problem and still trying to figure out what is the cause..I have reset the PMU (see apple support website on resetting the PMU) but the problem still remains. Another forum participant suggested to change the internal battery (an inexpensive exercise) but Apple website advice us not to do it and let them do it..but I will likely try to do it myself later.
For the time being, hope you can start up the machine like i did.
Seong Tatt

How can I erase all phantom iCal data from my iPhone/Flat Panel Mac?

Tried many ideas and Apple Genius could not even help me. Here is the scoop...
I created an iCloud account then synched my iPhone to my Flat Panel. Suddenly my iPhone showed up to six duplicates of iCal events (often a week or two later than the actual event). My Flat Panel iCal showed no such events. I erased all data and settings from the iPhone, restarted it from scratch (both from a back-up and as a new iPhone). As soon as I synch it to the Flat Panel the multiple events reappear on the iPhone but still not on the Flat Panel. I checked the "replace all calendar info" box in iTunes before synching. I deleted my iCloud account. I tried synching my old 1st gen iPod to teh Flat Panel, and the iCal info there is correct. I erased the iPhone and started over by starting it up/synching with my Macbook Air. The iCal info is now correct on my iPhone. How can I go back to synching on my Flat Panel? Where is the phantom info hiding on the Flat Panel?
Thanks for helping me with this strange problem!
John

Ohnj,
I presume that you are no longer trying to use iCloud for syncing with the "Flat Panel." It will not work since you are using OS X 10.5.8.
Quit iCal, go to your Macintosh HD/Users/yourusername/Library/Calendars folder and remove any/all files with "Cache" as a part of the file name. Then log out/in or restart and see what happens.

Screw size ? Dynex flat panel tv DX-32 E250A12

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