So I need a laptop for college, which I will also use for personal use. I've decided to get a MacBook Pro without Retina display and am trying to decide the specs.
Here are the things I will do with this laptop:
-Writing essays for college (which will be a lot)
-PowerPoints
-Personal Writing (Stories and things like that)
-Internet Surfing and Research (which means multiple tabs at a time)
-Watching Videos and Streaming Anime (DVDs, Hulu, Crunchyroll, etc)
-Downloads (PDFs)
-I don't play games.
So, with all of this in mind, what kind of specs and OS would be best? I will admit to not knowing a lot about computers and what's needed to do what I want, or much about the technicalities. I do know that I will be using 8gb of RAM, though I am not sure about HDD vs. SSD. I've basically been living off my iPad for Internet and stuff for the past two years and writing my papers at campus, but now that I'm going to be taking more English and writing-based classes, I'm going to need a laptop.
There's only one non-Retina MacBook Pro being sold by Apple now - the 13" on the left of the Apple Store page for MBPs.
If I were you, I would look for a refurbished 2012 15" from Apple. You can add RAM and a SSD (should you choose) yourself.
Clinton
Similar Messages
-
hi, recently i bought macbook pro with retina display and installed windows 8 professional original software also. but in windows 8 track pad/ TOUCHPAD is not working properly. can you help me with providing drivers for trackpad to work on windows 8 professional .
Did you download and install the Windows Support software? If you did, did you use the Boot Camp Control icon to set up the trackpad how you want it?
http://www.apple.com/support/bootcamp/
https://discussions.apple.com/community/windows_software/boot_camp -
I have to have windows so I can use CAD and photoshop for my classes. Any suggestions?
Boot Camp Assistant is in your Utilities folder. You will have to purchase Windows somewhere. Preferred would be 64-bit Windows 7.
Windows on Intel Macs
There are presently several alternatives for running Windows on Intel Macs.
1. Install the Apple Boot Camp software. Purchase Windows
XP w/Service Pak2, Vista, or Windows 7. For Boot Camp
4.0 and above you can only use Windows 7 or later. Follow
instructions in the Boot Camp documentation on
installation of Boot Camp, creating Driver CD, and
installing Windows. Boot Camp enables you to boot the
computer into OS X or Windows.
2. Parallels Desktop for Mac and Windows XP, Vista Business,
Vista Ultimate, or Windows 7. Parallels is software
virtualization that enables running Windows concurrently
with OS X.
3. VM Fusion and Windows XP, Vista Business, Vista Ultimate,
or Windows 7. VM Fusion is software virtualization that
enables running Windows concurrently with OS X.
4. CrossOver which enables running many Windows
applications without having to install Windows. The
Windows applications can run concurrently with OS X.
5. VirtualBox is an Open Source freeware virtual machine such
as VM Fusion and Parallels that was developed by Solaris.
It is not as fully developed for the Mac as Parallels and VM
Fusion.
Note that VirtualBox, Parallels, and VM Fusion can also run other operating systems such as Linux, Unix, OS/2, Solaris, etc. There are performance differences between dual-boot systems and virtualization. The latter tend to be a little slower (not much) and do not provide the video performance of the dual-boot system. See MacTech.com's Virtualization Benchmarking for comparisons of Boot Camp, Parallels, and VM Fusion. Boot Camp is only available with Leopard or Snow Leopard. Except for Crossover and a couple of similar alternatives like DarWine you must have a valid installer disc for Windows.
You must also have an internal optical drive for installing Windows. Windows cannot be installed from an external optical drive. -
i need help or a working solution , apple call here
Luckily I reinstalled the software and the problem just disappeared , and now for all those facing the same problem after reinstalling mountain lion don't update to 10.8.1 , cause only after that update earlier was when the problem started showing up , along with that don't reinstall lion using your recovery on your harddrive it takes 23 hours to install because it downloads the software first and then does all the installation so just download the app for mountain lion from the AppStore first and then make a bootable USB installation disk out of it , I'm sure you'll find a tutorial on google on how to make a recovery USB out of it , as for your data and stuff I moved all my stuff to an external hard drive and then performed a reinstall I recommend you do the same . The steps are simple after making the USB insert it and then reboot when the computer turns itself on press the alt/option key and then their will be a list of options there you will see your mt lion USB boot into it , select disk utility and then your Macintosh HD , WARNING IN THIS STEP YOU WILL ERASE YOUR HARD DRIVE COMPLETELY MAKE SURE YOU BACKUP ALL YOU DATA BEFORE PERFORMING THIS STEP I WON'T BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DATA LOSS DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, so choose your drive , go to the erase tab choose Mac os extended journaled usually the first option from the drop down menu and name it Macintosh HD again click on erase and then after thats done close the utility , now select the option to install mt lions copy from the first menu and then chose your Macintosh HD that we erased eirlier and install, it takes about 20-40 mins depending on your Mac and then viola the problem will disappear , well at least it did for me . Here is the link on HOW TO MAKE A LION RECOVERY USB
http://gigaom.com/apple/quick-tip-create-a-usb-installer-for-mountain-lion/
Hope This Would Definetly Work For you =D........... -
What do I do?
Did you install any 3rd party addons to Safari? Read this thread:
https://discussions.apple.com/message/22320140#22320140 -
Can someone tell me which printer would be most compatible and easiest to install?
I have never owned a wireless printer and feel intimidated by the very thought of connecting a printer to my MacBook Pro with Retinal display and Mountain Lion.
I feel overwhelmed by the info on the net. Thank you from a concerned senior citizen.Cocoa506 wrote:
Hi again. I do want a wireless printer to use for both my MacBook Pro laptop and IPhone 4S.
I would need a printer/scanner.
Then have a look at the MG6320 -
DO I need Anti-Virus for my Macbook Pro w/Retina Display?
I am currently awaiting a MacBook Pro w/Retina Display and I am having an ongoing discussion with some work colleagues, since the Flashback Trojan appeared to infiltrate Mac's back in early 2012... DO I need Anti-Virus.. My argument is no, but everybody elses is yes!
I would love to see some indepth feedback to send my PC lovers running!
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Joe1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "archive extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software are likely to be infected.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
5. Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install one unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, even supposing that they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. Windows malware attachments in email are almost always easy to recognize without computer assistance.
8. The greatest danger posed by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is its effect on human behavior. When people install such software, which does little or nothing to protect them from emerging threats, they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default. -
What exactly does the AppleCare cover for MacBook Pro with Retina Display?
I purchased the extended protection plan for my MacBook Pro with Retina Display 15" and my question is what exactly does it cover in what kind of situations (i.e. viruses, damaged ports, damaged charger, etc.)? I want to be able to take full advantage of the protection plan since it was a pretty big whole in my wallet.
AppleCare covers all the problems you have with your MacBook Pro with Retina display and the peripherals which came with it (your charger) if you have a hardware problem that you didn't cause. For example, after 2 or 3 years and 1000 charges, OS X says that your battery has to be replaced: in this case, you have to pay for the battery, because batteries have got a lifetime, and Unibody Macs batteries have got an average lifetime of about 1000 charges.
However, if the RAM gets damaged and you haven't done anything to cause it, you will get your computer repaired or replaced for free. AppleCare in a MacBook Pro with Retina display is very important, because near all the parts are soldered into the logic board and repairs are expensive -
Adobe Reader Update for MacBook Pro with Retina Display
I recently purchased the new MacBook Pro with Retina Display and noticed when I downloaded Adobe Reader that it had not yet been updated to support the new Retina Display. If I remember correctly, it was announced that Adobe Photshop has been updated to support the new display. Will there also be an update for Reader any time soon?
Hi,
Reader and Acrobat XI will support Retina display for both the user interface and document rendering with the September update.
For now, the UI is Retina capable but the document content is still rendered at a lower resolution.
Few more weeks to go
Best,
Luc -
What MacBook Pro with Retina Display is recommended for college students?
I'm trying to decide which MacBook Pro with Retina Display to buy before I go off to college. I want to get the 2.6 GHz, 16 GB of RAM, and just the 512 GB of Flash. But I don't know which one is better for a business major. The 2.6 GHz Pro with Retina, or the 2.3 GHz Retina. My concers are the space, and this computer is suppossed to last me 4 years.
I'm a college student as well and I'm going to be a sophomore engineering major. I'm currently sitting on a 2007 white MacBook. Yes, it is from the stone age. However, over 5 years, I have only used 280 GB of space. I'm going to order a 2.7GHz, 16GB, 512 SSD R-MBP this weekend, in the hopes that this, too will last me about 5 years. Honestly, if you have the money to drop, I would buy the fastest possible configuration, 16GB ram, and a 512 SSD so that you can comfortably use your computer for another 4-5 years. My white MacBook served quite well for 5 years. The thing about newer technology is that it may last longer. A Core2Duo processor from 07 is nothing compared to Ivy Bridge now. So I would max out the configuration if I were you. By 2017, Intel is going to be making processors that will make this R-MBP look like crap, so consider "future-proofing" your computer for the long run.
-
I am thinking of getting my first Macbook pro for uni and was just wondering which one would be the best? The macbook pro or macbook pro with retina display? or even wait for the new release in 2013 ?
If your budget is unlimited, look at both the retina and non-retina and make a decision based on your preferences. If funds are tight, explore the options in the refurbished section. Unless you are dealing with courses that demand specific performance parameters, any one of these options will suffice.
Ciao. -
This will be my first time buying a laptop and I was thinking about the macbook pro with retina display but the price is a little to high I was wondering for any suggestions? Like other ways to get it cheaper?
Actually you could get student discount from apple and a 10% dicksmith with limited time and I think jb hi fi gives even better discount. But lets see what other people think?
-
Which MacBook Pro with retina display ( 13 inch or 15 inch ? )
I can't decide which MacBook with retina display to buy. I'm switching to a Mac from a PC, but I am used to the Mac platform. So far I'm am thinking that, I will choose the 15 inch model, if apple would lower the price a lot at the upcoming event WWDC 2013. But I would consider buy the 13 inch if apple rises the processor speed, offer more ram, and ssd, while keeping the same price.
The 15 inch MacBook offers:
An extra 2 inches of screen space
Much faster ( quad core vs dual core )
The 13 inch MacBook provides
A compact design
Dual core
13 inches
$1000 less
For full comparison visit: http://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/
I will be useing this Mac for
Ios application developing ( Xcode, ios simulator ),
Home use
Web searching
Sometimes at school
Utilities
And other usual stuff.
So overall,
I won't be carrying this around much,
I will do lots of web searching and app developing,
And utilities and other usual stuff
And a need for extra screen space for more room when I'm web searching and app developing.
What do think? Also, would you reccomended any extra features ( extra ram, ssd, or a higher processor) for my needs. This will be a great help, thank you. Ps. I have my fingers crossed for a new MacBook Pro lineup and WWDC 2013. I hope to see upgrades for the MacBook Pro with retina display, apple.Hi,
I am a researcher so I store a lot of papers, data, and use numerical software. I have had a 17inch high spec macbook pro for over a year now. I find that apart from the large screen, it was unnecessary to get the high specs. This is why. Firstly, the hard drive is easy to replace and upgrade, apple charge a lot for their own ones. Secondly, the ram in my one was upgradable (which i didnt know when i bought it) and i since upgraded to 16gigs from 8 and its amazing. Thirdly, the newer macbook pros run hotter than the previous ones.
The retina is overrated and the programs for retina need more memory and processing power, so what you find is that your hard drive will get taken over sooner, your mac will run hotter, and battery life lower.
I would say to you, dont worry about the processor speed, the normal speed offered is perfect, more than that is not necessary unless you are running highly demanding apps, the mac will run hotter too. Dont bother getting a large hard drive in the macbook. Get a flash SSD drive, and buy a good portable 2tb HD, like a WD one, and use that to store as much of your work as possible. I believe apple started soldering their ram cards to the motherboard or something so that people cant upgrade. Check in advance and see if the macbook you want can be ram upgradable, then get a lower ram model and buy good 8gb ram cards to make 16gig. Very very easy to install them, took me about two minutes to do mine, it will be much cheaper.
If I think of anything else i will post back. Dont forget to install GFX card status too and use integrated only when on battery, i get up to ten hours of battery life without wifi, around 8 with wifi.
edit. I forgot to mention that if you buy your mac and try to open it you will void the warranty. -
HT4110 What is the best battery setting for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display?
I want to know the best setting for the battery for the MacBook Pro 13 Retina display.
To add just a little
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace -
I am curious to know what speed those running Windows 7 on a MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display are obtaining. I am interested in purchasing a MacBook Pro 13" Retina (i7) and will be running Windows 7 frequently since some of my business software only runs under Windows. I have heard that the best PC is a Mac. Just wanted to confirm the Windows Experience Index values are for those MacBook Pro users are seeing when running Windows 7. The Windows 7 Experience Index numbers include one for Processor speed, Memory (RAM) speed, Graphics speed, Gaming graphics speed, and Primary Disk speed.
Hi - I connected my superdrive but it does not seem to be working - now all I get is a black screen with the prompt - no bootable device; insert boot disk and press any key.
Any thoughts on this? I put an ISO image on my desktop and also created an image on a USB drive - however it has encryption software on it which did not get overwritten so Im not sure if this is why that won't boot.
Does anyone know if the Superdrive can't be used?
My macbook is 3 weeks old - it is all the latest and greatest stuff...
Maybe you are looking for
-
How do I use a specific host directory in the ftp setup?
I am reestablishing links in CS4 to my websites after an upgrade from Vista to 7. I use Go Daddy and the subdirectory capability. I had a difficult time setting up the ftp connection and saw in another posting that the Host directory should be left b
-
When opening Firefox, the bookmarks hang for up to 30 seconds before they can be accessed. Also have a hanging issue when opening a window/pop-up within an application (i.e., email search window). == This happened == Every time Firefox opened == Afte
-
i have an ipad that is synced with an old computer. how can i sync my ipad to the new computer without losing my apps?
-
Mac Pro Freeze/Display glitch on start up
I've only been using my new Mac Pro (late 2013) for a few days now but am expereicing an issue on restart/start up. It seems the computer struggles to search for the two new 1920x1200 Dell displays that are hooked up to it through mini display-DVI co
-
Playback Out-Of-Phase... Help?
Adobe Audition 3.0 & Adobe Audition CC on a NEW HP PC with Windows 8 - Playback is out of phase and sounds horrible on any audio recorded in real-time (eg Mic, iTunes, YouTube, etc..) Not sure whether it's happening during recording or only on play