Solution for crackling/popping so

I was messing with?the settings in supreme commander?to try to fix the crackling/popping sound and I turned off anti aliasing (excuse spelling). Then started playing and no crackling at all. Turned it'son again, crackling, then turned it off no crackling. Try this out and let me know if it works for you guys.

i am using youppax software and drivers with a mobo asus a 8n32 sli and x-fi fatalty soundcart and off or on(allways On ) NO PROBLEMO AT ALLThe only stupid thing is that i cant burn cd/dvd with my plextor

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Found a Solution to crackling and popping on XFI Sound ca

I have tried many solution attempts found on this forum and nothing seemed to work. I have updated all of the drivers. I have reinstalled several times along with reboots and after all this I just decided to try on last thing and here it is and it worked for me.
Well after testing this I have found that setting the sample format rate and bit depth to be use in shared mode to 24 bit, 96000Hz (Studio Quality) That the crackling and popping has gone away. I have tested this in a game called Jericho that did it all the time and the game runs smooth and the audio is crisp and clear. I also had problem playing any audio and moving the mouse over icons and the sound would have serious crackling. This has also gone away. The sound in general is a lot better then before. It is crisp and clear. I highly suggest that you check the settings. Go to Control Panel then Sound . Right click on speakers and select Properties . Click on Advanced and in the Default Format change this to 24 bit, 96000 Hz (Studio Quality). This should get rid of all of the crackling and popping. This has worked for me. I have hooked up my speakers direct not by fiber optic. I am guessing that if one used fiber optic then you might be able to use 24 bit, 92000 Hz (Studio Quality) . But I would definitely try adjusting the settings here to try and fix the problem. I have gone back and forth on these settings and it is only clear on 24 bit, 96000 Hz (Studio Quality) . Thanks to you all on this forum for you help in this matter I know this is only my third post but I have been reading this forum for solutions for a week now and have found a solution that worked for me that I have not read yet. I hope this helps everyone or at least some. Godspeed.

Here are more of my findings after some more testing. I know that I have found the XFI card to work on my vista machine at 24 bit 96000 Hz, but here is something that tells me there is definitely something wrong with these new drivers for XFI cards. Today I wanted to try going back to the HD audio card that came with my Asus Crosshair motherboard. It has an HD Supreme FX PCI Express card. I am assuming this is equivalent to the Creative Audigy 2 ZS card that I also have. I would assume that the XFI card is a step above the HD Supreme FX card that comes with the motherboard. So here are my findings. After installing the card and the Vista drivers for the HD Supreme FX card I ran into zero problems. I switched the settings to 24 Bit 92000 Hz, this is the setting I wanted to use for the XFI card and it would crackle and pop. The funny thing is the Audigy 2 ZS card that I have had absolutely no problem in running 24 Bit 92000 Hz in Windows XP. So you can not tell me that the XFI Card is incapable of running 24 Bit 92000 Hz. There is no way that you would downgrade the better card of the two. I also know from other users that the XFI card has no problem running 24 Bit 92000 Hz in Windows XP. This is a Vista issue that is narrowed down to the drivers. Therefore the drivers need to be reprogrammed. How is it that, Asus can have a card designed or design an audio card along with drivers that work flawlessly in Vista and am audio component manufacturer like Creative just can not seem to get it right Any answers Creative I still had problems with the audio in the Game Jericho with the XFI card but no problems occurred with the HD Supreme FX card that came with the Crosshair board. So I know it is not a problem with the game. The problem lies in the drivers with the XFI card. The problem that I was having incase you all are curious is. In the game you get to a point where you are able to switch between characters. The crackle would occur when jumping into the character Delgado. The audio would crackle and pop. So I would jump out and into another character and the sound would still crackle and pop until you took the first step and then it would go away. It did not matter which character you would jump into from Delgado. The only sound issues where with Delgado. I thought it was in the game after I assumed I had found a fix. But I was wrong because I had absolutely no issues on any character or at any point in the game with the Supreme FX card. I only had these issues with the XFI Card. The funny thing is the game recommends the XFI card.

Snap crackle pop issue....fixed - audigy 2 plat/

My first post, Hope the title doesn't mislead/anger anyone, but i truly believe these solutions
are uni'versal and can be applied with just about everyone.
My card is almost 5 years old now or so... I've seen the frustration on this board about this
nasty issue.... i felt SO bad for some of you guys that i just had to sign up and share my
knowledge (or lack of!) for the multiple, possible 'fixes' to this. its not entirely CREATIVE's
fault and there is ways to fix it, you just need a bit of Patience and the willingness to learn
a bit more about your hardware if you arent too savy with tweaking it. this might of all been
said before, but i really hope this helps some of you.
Lets get the blahblahblah's outta the way just to be safe, shall we? Obviously, make sure your
card isn't sharing an IRQ with a cd/dvd device, or any kind of hardware that transfers a lot of
data constantly or uses a lot of power like a hard-dri've, maybe even certain gpu's. In my case,
my bottom PCI-slot (3/3) only shares an irq with a USB port and as corny as it sounds it did
improve the issue (i disabled that USB, but that isn't necessary its overkill/fail-safe
precaution, probably doesn't even help at all, paranoia setting). download Si-Software Sandra to
see exactly what belongs to where and what irq is being shared with what. Also before i forget,
clean out your dri'ves with bleach/acid/napalm with a program such as Drivercleaner, just to be
safe, right?
If you have anything on your Motherboard that's VIA/raid related, its imperati've you upgrade the
drivers for it, it could very well be your single solution, for example the latest via_hyperion
pro_v5a.zip did it for me and my particular setup just recently after a small hardware upgrade.
this fixed the MAJORITY of the pops in several different machines with these motherboards as well
i might add. Also make sure the Cable is newer than 2 years old, dirty worn cables can
cripple/weird out any piece of hardware, that goes for HD's, CD roms, ...anything that uses
IDE/serial cables etc. lots of people toss their dvd/cd roms out thinking they've used its
life-span, when a brand new ide cable is all it really needed. but... this VIA/raid driver
problem seems to be a pretty common fix in my experiences.
Gamers who suffer from "sudden" or "random" pops here and there while gaming......... with time
will notice this occurs usually when the HD is seeking a lot of info and is under a decent amount
of stress, OBLIVION is a good example of the HD being as important as ram/cpu/gpu IMO. that's
why....... "it seems to do it more (pops/cracks) with certain games than others". ACOUSTIC
MANAGEMENT is Often to blame for this in My opinion, and some maxtor dri'ves come with this
enabled from the factory (why, why why?!! ...die die die!!!). Imagine setting the In-game HD
cache setting Tweak for obilivion enabled to , + Acoustic managementenabled....it turns
preformance into a bloody mess, and will (possibly, most likely?) crack annoyingly often whenever
a new area is being loaded and sufficient data is being called, not to mention make a less
experienced gamer think his machine is completely screwed for no reason. Acousitc Mangemtn
enabled on a hard-dri've can be suicidal for certain games and will almost guarantee preformance
issues, cracks, burns, bruises, broken bones, stab wounds.....and most likely the lovely POPS...
the nasty loud firecracker ones...it can be so bad to the point where many of us will not even
play anymore out of frustration, especially for you audiophiles... leaving us angry and desperate
for a fix. Acoustic management CRIPPLES performance and destroys seek-time, that i AM sure of,
so fix it anyway for your own good, unless you don't care for performance. Please, get rid of
this nasty, possibly/commonly built in feature that turns a 7200rpm dri've into a 5400rpm (ouch),
make SURE this is disabled for you maxtor/seagate HD owners who play games or just want better
performance period. You'll have to google those instructions, I wouldnt dare say more.
On a separate machine, "tad in" and "cd audio" had to be muted to stop a lot of it, as well as EAX
effects (i know you love eax, but its worth the sacrifice) slider turned DOWN to 0% even when disabled.
this may not be necessary for everyone, but a lot of us suffer from those soft "echoey crackles"
and its a quick fix. im sure you've all read this "solution" 5 billion times, but it doesnt hurt
to put it out there. that, or dxdiag or control panel audio properties the slider to Standard acceleration, better to lose eax IMO.
there is no support or guarantee with this patch, and it supposedly doesn't support/work properly
with XP Servicepack 2, however this worked on my dads machine and a friends' as well. GOOGLE
"down vlatency", (not "download" vlatency) and click on the "georgebreese.com" link and try his
vlatency_v020_beta2.exe. this simply overrides some BIOS settings that many of us cant access
easily or at all, and boosts IDE latency and on a lot of different PC setups and gives more
juice to the PCI bus by editing how much the CPU will control the pci bus for, or something like
that. point is, its a redbull for your PC's pci related bandwidth/juice management and it cant
hurt to try (lets hope not j/k).
i don't recommend messing with IRQ assignments in bios or pci latency utilities unless you really
know what you're doing and consider yourself a power user, just a personal opinion, 32 is fine
and a lot of people end up regretting messing with these settings.
there is also the "turbo off" setting (think there's a "patch" for that registry setting too),
but i seriously doubt it will resolve a users problem who suffers Heavily from this syndrome, but
i guess you could try it.
Last but not least, another "ghetto" fix that could improve your issue is killing your CMSS
feature. i have no idea why that setting always acts up (at least for my machine it does) and
causes rice crispies to go off.
Its 2am on a Friday, I've been writing for a while, and i really don't know if i was clear enough
with what i said, but no way im going back to read/correct cause ill be here forever. if you've all tried this before with no luck, sorry. i'm just trying to help if
i can, and if 2 single words out of this post can even spark an idea to help fix somebodies rig, its worth it, right?
Remember to never trust anyone with anything (especially advice) or put your hopes and dreams
into a randomer's advice (such as mine!), keep in mind I'm just an average guy with no
qualifications or credentials that could be wrong about EVERY single thing i just said, i could
be completely out of my mind for all we know, listening to me could very well make your PC
explode and set your house on fire....be warned!! haha that's my surgeon generals warning for ya. GOOD NIGHT and good luck!

Here's the link to the download:
http://www.apple.com/support/downloads/audioupdate2007001.html
Mac Pro 3.0 Mac OS X (10.4.10) 4GB RAM

1212M Crackling/Popping - New Drivers

I'm kind of cranky about this problem. Read on because I actually know exactly what the problem is (at least for most of us and only Creative/EMU can fix it).
Background
I have a 1212M with the 0404 I/O card. It's a V1 that have had for five or six years. The quality of the sound is great, the features are great and the price is great. There's just one problem. From the day I got the board all those years ago I've had the crackling/popping problem that many, many other users also have.
The problem is not my motherboard, BIOS, other hardware, Windows or other applications. Over the years this EMU board has been in many different systems, many different configurations and the evolution from WinXP, Vista and now to Win7. The crackling problem has always been exactly the same. The problem is the board itself, not the system and not the configuration and I can prove it (read on).
Another thing that frustrates me is all the time that so many users have spent trying to troubleshoot this issue that is completely wasted since, for some of us, the problem is in the EMU hardware/drivers. That's not to say that there aren't some other crackling problems that are related to the system speed, interfering hardware or interfering software. There are actually two different problems that both have the same crackling symptom which makes all this quite confusing. I'll call them "System Related" and "EMU Hardware/Driver Related". If you're having the crackling symptom you should figure out which type of problem you have before spending hours troubleshooting, reinstalling, etc, etc, etc. Here's how:
If your crackling problem:
- Doesn't happen on startup. Your audio is fine and the problem only develops after a while. On my system it's between 60 and 90 minutes and resetting the card.
- Starts with a few minor crackle/pops per second and gradually gets progressively worse over several minutes with nothing else changing in the system (ie not running new software or changing anything).
- After a while (can be a long while) the crackling can actually go away again and you have clean audio. Then the crackling returns. Once again with no changes in system load in between.
- You can make the crackling go away instantly and every time by simply resetting the clock on the card. There are several ways to do this. In Patchmix go to the System tab under Session Settings and switch the clock between internal/external (whatever you have it on, go to the other and back again). Another way is the change the ASIO Buffer Latency milliseconds in your host software's ASIO control panel.
If those four things are all true for you then you have the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. Do not waste any time with all the well-meaning but misguided troubleshooting ideas posted on this and other forums. None of it will help.
If these four things aren't true on your system then by all means you should try all the troubleshooting steps because it's likely that you can resolve your crackling problem.
Here is what is happening with the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. First, let me say that I know what the root of the problem is because I used to work for a company that developed high-end professional video/audio software for Windows PCs. We encountered this exact same problem when some our users started reporting it. It wasn't solely with Creative or EMU hardware because the problem can actually happen on a variety of PC audio cards where the hardware is slightly out of spec or malfunctioning and the software driver is not capable of correcting the problem.
Our most senior software engineers banged their heads against this problem for quite a while until they determined what was going wrong in our customer's PC audio hardware. The issue is that the clock on the card is drifting slightly which means it is going a little faster or slower than the current sample rate. That's why the problem only manifests after a while. It's also why the crackling goes away when you reset the clock. The fundamental issue is that the audio data coming from your PC is being written into a buffer. The data is written by the PC driver and read from the buffer by the card and then sent to the card's output. You can think of the buffer as a big circle of memory. There's a write pointer that writes one value of data and then increments one step and "180 degrees" opposite in the circle of memory is a read pointer that reads one value of data and then increments one step.
These two pointers never move at exactly the same speed. They are constantly slowing down or speeding up a little bit but over time on average they end up advancing at about the same rate. The problem is that when the clock on the card is drifting, the read pointer and write pointer will eventually cross over. That's why the this kind of crackling problem manifests only after a while because, depending on the drifting, it takes a while for the pointers to cross. It's also why the crackling is subtle at first and then gets progressively worse over time. Right when the pointers are overlapping the timing is still close. As one pointer starts to "lap" the other point more and more the crackling artifact gets progressively worse. That's also why the problem usually goes away again if you wait long enough. The pointers can actually get back in phase again for a short while! That's how I know exactly what the current problem is the 1212M board because it manifests with these precise characteristics. The old problem my former companies user's had even sounded exactly the same as the crackling my EMU 1212M has.
Once we understood the problem, in our next version we modified our software to use a larger buffer. This eliminated the problem for some of our customers whose hardware clock was only very slightly out spec. However, for other customers the problem remained, although by increasing the buffer size it made it take longer for the pointers to reach each other and the crackling to begin. This is the what I suspect EMU has done with the new Win7 beta drivers. With the new drivers my crackling takes longer to appear. In these forums we see reports from some long-time sufferers of the problem that the new driver fixed their problem and from others we hear that they are still having the problem.
Since we still had unhappy users of our video/audio application software, we kept working on the issue and eventually came up with a fix that solved the problem for all users and all audio hardware. It was hard to implement but this is what EMU/Creative needs to have their driver engineers do to actually fix the problem (short of replacing an enormous amount of hardware).
The problem can be solved in the driver (yes, my old company actually embedded our own low level generic driver in our application software). Since EMU/Creative is making their driver themselves they can just implement this fix there. The secret is for the driver to actually keep track of where the write and read pointers are and each time they get too close to each other it stretches or shrinks the next packet of data by averaging the audio samples in that packet to the exact size needed to put the pointers 180 degrees apart again. It then resets the pointers as it writes that new data. The data shrink or stretch prevents a single pop or click from happening when the pointers are reset to their correct positions. Frankly, this was hard to implement but it worked perfectly. We actually hired a consultant to figure this audio problem out who was a former Microsoft engineer who wrote the WDM kernal mode drivers.
EMU SUPPORT please let your product manager know that this is what is going on and that he should ask your contract driver engineers to implement this type of solution. Yes, it will cost more in development time (and hence $$$), but it will fix the issue once and for all and not just for this card. You can re-use the code in other drivers.
If you need specific help, I'll even connect you with the engineers that did it for a more detailed explanation (we sold our company years ago and the team has split up but I'm still in contact with most of them).

Markran,
Thank you for the information. I will make sure that it gets routed to the correct people.
Casey

Snap, Crackle & Pop :( Audidgy 2 ZS Platinum Pro - Plz H

Hi all,Im having some serious issue's with my Audidgy 2 ZS Platinum Pro...For the past week my sound card has?been SNAP, CRACKLE & POP with terrible noises thru my KRK?Rokits RP6SE studio monitors. I have tried a full uninstall of the drivers and software then a reboot and then a full re-install of everything that comes on the Audidgy disc and nothing i have tried has fixed the problem, i have not installed anything else on my pc before or after this has happened and no new hardware has been added either.Now i've had this problem many times in the last 2 years since i purchased this crap card but the problem has always gone away within a couple of days and has never been as bad as what it is now. I remember seeing a couple of years back on here about this same issue and it was at least 9 pages long with everyone saying the same thing about this?S/Card?and that Creative were working on this issue,?and i was hoping someone on here could point me in the right direction to rectifying this problem i have as all music production work is now at a stop as the noise im getting is to much to work with... This is the spec of the PC thats running the Audidgy....amd athlon 64bit 3800+ 2.4ghz processor?x maxtor maxline 2 - 300gb HDD x maxtor Diamond 0 - 250gb HDDGigabyte N-force 3 motherboard ( K8 Triton )Soundblaster Audigy 2 zs platinum pro - model SB03602 x pioneer 09 dvd/cdrw X 500watt ATX power supplyIm desparate to get this sorted as there are tracks i need to get finished asap....Any help would be more than apprieciated... ThanksRob Dj Benson...

Mate so far i have tried my soundcard on every slot in my machine, i have 5 slots and the only slot that will actaully recognise the card is the slot it normally uses, i've uninstalled and reinstalled, i've updated the drivers which was a waste of time, i've even cleaned the card and also where my PC is situated it is in a nice cool place, the room temp is actually cold, my pc is running at 33oC so theres no problem there with 5 fans inside it running it nice and cool. Temparature is not the issue, its these crap drivers that creative have made, my pc health is in very good condition and im running out of idea's on what to try next... i know its not an irq problem as i've checked that aswell so i dont think there is much more to check...
A reply from Catherine or Dale wouldnt go a miss seeing as they seem to be the know all and end all of creative products, sorry if im sounding like im having a dig here, im just fed up with all the crap that creative are coming out with over this issue and not attending to the real problem and that is a solution to fixing these cards instead of blaming N-Videa all the time.
This is the first week off work i have had in 5 months and so far i have achieved nothing in terms of studio production, i have spent the last 5 days trying to fix this bloody card and im not a happy bunny... I even signed that petition last night as a result of creatives lack of technical support, and im sure the other 8500+ people who have signed it feel exactly the same way...

Constant crackling/pop + inability to install standard drivers + audio loss

Oh Lord, what a disaster Creative is. I have a Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatalty Pro that worked fine under Windows XP for four straight years. Then on the fifth year when I upgraded to the Windows 7 x64 Beta it ceased to function. It never continued to work with the Release Candidate, RTM or Retail versions so I just gave up until a few days ago when I thought maybe Creative or the community fixed some of my issues...
Hah, fat chance. Anyways it all began with severe audio distortions, pops and crackling that would sometimes end in a flat-line tone or eternal static. No matter how many times I reinstalled my drivers, used older drivers or used user remedies nothing worked. So I just gave up, took out my sound card and sucked it up with my Realtek integrated motherboard audio (eugh).
Well I can't stand it anymore. I'm too much of an audiophile to settle for anything less so I tried my sound card out again. I still had the same problems only now I can barely install any Creative drivers as the installation will constantly ask about a file called layout.bin.[url="http://consumerdocs.installshield.com/selfservice/viewContent.do?externalId=Q0892&sliceId=" rel="nofollow"> I followed this solution[/url] but it does not work at all and there are no other responses on the issue.
But that's OK because I can still install the base X-Fi drivers. Unfortunately it never resolved my issue. Older drivers do not work. There's nothing other than crackling and popping and then an utter loss of audio. Then I heard about Daniel_K and used his drivers (X-Fi Prelude Beta and X-Fi Support Pack 2.0). I was elated when everything installed without a single issue and the audio was perfect... until after maybe an hour when the crackling came back. Then it started getting progressi'vely worse until you can't even decipher what's being heard. I tried a couple reinstalls which would fix the issue for a short spell but then it'd degrade exponentially from there.
On top of that I couldn't use any of the Creative software with either Creative's drivers or Daniel_K's. It would never detect my sound card even though Windows had no problem seeing it. So I spent literally 5 hours of my day prowling these forums, Google and my own experiments with no luck.
So rather than looking for a solution I'm just gonna ask for one. I have an EVGA 680i motherboard, Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 3GHz, ATI Radeon HD 5850, 6GB RAM, Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatalty Pro and .5TB HDD space.
I know Creative stated that nForce motherboards might have an issue with the X-Fi but I've never had that problem with XP and I heard it's found in many other boards from different manufacturers. Creative also stated problems with more than 4GB of RAM but I've disabled all but 3.5GB of RAM with no success. I know Creative states that this is a PCI issue and that I should mess around with my BIOS settings. Updating my BIOS, disabling unneeded BIOS features, changing PCI slots and getting rid of my overclocks did nothing.
I [b][u]KNOW[/u][/b] that it's [color="#ff0000"]not a defecti've card. Everything works 00% with Ubuntu 9.0. Thanks for your time. I'm probably just wishing for gold to pour from the heavens and wasting my time. =(

ORe: Constant crackling/pop + inability to install standard drivers + audio loss? Alright, don't ask me how but I managed to mostly fix my crackling and popping issue. I fixed it with a combination of rearranging all of my hardware to different slots and reinstalling my drivers for the th time, only this time mashing Daniel_K's drivers with Creative's.
Now getting the drivers to work is another thing. I have sound and it's superb (the only reason why I'm willing to sacrifice so much of my time to get this to work) but I cannot get any other function out of my X-Fi. I can't open up the console, switch modes, enable effects, etc. Also, if I ATTEMPT to screw around with any audio settings my computer will start crackling like the devil and all of my hard work will be undone, prompting another reinstall requiring the utter removal of anything Creative on my PC to work.
Now I think the reason for this is because whenever I try to install any Creative software from Creative themselves (except the driver) it won't install. It will ask about a layout.bin, I would point the installation to where layout.bin is but then it'd give me an error (Error I-00). According to my install.log I'm missing something called CTShared. I try installing it but it doesn't seem to fix my problem.
Also, installing ALchemy will tell me that it couldn't create a shortcut after installation and will not work. Sometimes the installation will say that there is a newer version of a product and that it won't install even though there is no trace of anything Creative on my computer.
Now Daniel_K's drivers and software install fine, but the software WILL NOT detect my sound card. It will constantly tell me that the audio device wasn't found or that it's not installed. Windows sees it fine, though, and I get perfect audio. So I mashed Daniel_K's drivers with Creative (long process) and everything installs fine, everything looks to run fine but for some reason nothing will start up. So so much for my own modding attempts. >_<
Any solutions?

Speakers Crackling/popping

I have crackling/popping in my speakers. I found a solution that says I need to turn off all enhancements. When I open the speaker properties, there isn't an enhancement tab. I have a Sound Blaster Audigy FX card installed.

Hello @mmosher12,
Welcome to the HP Forums, I hope you enjoy your experience! To help you get the most out of the HP Forums I would like to direct your attention to the HP Forums Guide First Time Here? Learn How to Post and More.
I have read your post on how you hear a crackling or popping sound from the speakers connected to your desktop computer, and I would be happy to assist you!
Does this issue reoccur if you plug in a set of headphones? Does the crackling sound happen if you connect your speakers to a different computer?
In the meantime, I recommend following the steps in this document on No Sound from the Speakers or Headphones (Windows 7). This should help to ensure your system is configured for optimal audio output.
I would also encourage you to post your product number for your computer. Below is a is an HP Support document that will demonstrate how to find your computer's product number.
How Do I Find My Model Number or Product Number?
Please re-post with the results of your troubleshooting, as well as the requested information above. I look forward to your reply!
Regards
MechPilot
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the right to say “Thanks” for helping!

Audigy 2 Value - Crackling/Popping/

Quite a few people have had a crackling issue in their sound, but nothing I've searched turned up a solution for my situation. I'll explain a few things that have happened to me since I've had this problem.
First of all, when listening to music or playing games with software rendering sound, there is no crackling or popping. This only occurs when I play games using hardware/EAX rendering sound. The popping noises usually occur on louder sounds like explosions and such.
I've had this problem for awhile, and now it's starting to bug me as nothing I do can see to fix it, however I don't know that the card itself is broken.
I had bought a new power supply because the existing one I had was old and cheap, and the crackling problem mysteriously went away. So I shrugged it off, and was happy. I recently went out and bought a Radeon X700 Pro to replace my Radeon 9600se, and it seems the crackling has returned. It's almost like it is caused by some sort of interference, but how can I fix it then? Because of this, I have a surround sound system that is rendered useless for gaming.
Current Specs
=============
Motherboard: Asus P4C800 Deluxe
Processor: Pentium 4 3.2ghz Prescott
Power Supply: 600w Ultra
Video Card: Radeon X700 Pro 256mb
Sound Card: Audigy 2 Value
Speakers: Altec Lansing 5.
If you see anything here that can cause this problem, please let me know. There has to be a way to fix this.
EDIT: Couple things to add. I've done the obvious things like moving the card to a different slot, or updating drivers to the latest.Message Edited by RatoN on -0-2005 0:35 AM

Well, I think the game with the most noticable problem is Half-Life 2 for me. Explosions sometimes come off louder than it should be with a terrible popping noise. It's just terrible.
The first time I had a crackling issue, I believe all games with hardware sound including Battlefield 2 and UT2004 were affected with the problem (The ones I remember off the top of my head anyway). This time around I tried Battlefield 2, Far Cry and UT2004, and it didn't have a noticable crackle. Only Half-Life 2 seems to suffer the exact same.
I'm not sure what you meant by the MIDI device and why it affects the sound, but switching that doesn't do anything for me.
EDIT: Okay, I just tested Half-Life 2 on the lowest settings and it appeared to help the crackle situation. HL2 did run at a more weaker frame rate than those other games I mentioned, but the frame rate was still playable anyway. I hate to think I have to reduce my graphic settings just to play with better sound.Message Edited by RatoN on -0-2005 :26 AM

Crackling/Popping in Rome Total War - Could it be chipset heat? (Audigy 2

I'm posting this because I have a friend who just got a the same sound-card I have (Audigy 2 ZS) and has crackling/popping in a few games. What is surprising is she has crackling/popping in the same area of Rome Total War as I do. It's when you get in amoungst all the soldiers and the # of sounds and intensity is at its max.
So is it possible the crackling/popping is due to heat? I don't think it's the conflicting SATA issues I've read about since I have 2 Gig of RAM and my HD's aren't accessed during this part of the game. I also tried changing my PCI latency, but that did not help.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time discuss this.

I'm back - with a SOLUTION to the "ripped speaker like" sound problem when playing QUICKTIME! ! !
And somebody better tell --------- APPLE!!! I think.
OK - here it is.... I never really liked QUICKTIME anyway.So I went to this site and downloaded for really <EM>FREE</EM> - QUICKTIME ALTERNATIVEhttp://www.softpedia.com/get/Multimedia/Video/Video-Players/QuickTime-Alternati've.shtml
Then before I installed it - I uninstalled Apple's QUICKTIME.
Then I installed QUICKTIME ALTERNATIVE.
And guess what? No sound distortion. And quicktime alternati've seems pretty cool.
So there's a rotten golden apple around - they have to fix there own problem - and CREATIVE should force them.
Happy? reply to the forum and tell me. :womanhappy:
Message Edited by joliett on 04-29-2006 04:26 AM

Crackling/popping - constant, not just when watching videos

;Crackling/popping - constant, not just when watching videos' My setup is a Dell Dimension 8400 with Media Center (WinXP), Intel Pentium 4, 3.4GHz, 3070Mb RAM, NVIDIA GeForce 6800 video card, and an Audigy 2 ZS sound card.
After never having any audio problems, almost 3 months ago I updated the Audigy 2 ZS driver (5.2.4.96) to the most recent available (2.8.00), and immediately crackling and popping began coming from the speakers.
Although nothing has solved the problem, here are some things I've tried:
1) updating to the beta driver (2.8.00)
2) installing the old driver (2.09.006) offered at the Creative site
3) installing an old driver (5.2.4.445) found online
4) reinstalling from the original CD that came with my computer
Because I've spent so many frustrating hours since the disastrous update trying many different fixes, I can't recall exactly what happened during the update, and didn't keep good notes. However, my contemporaneous notes from that day mention (without context, unfortunately) some files that may provide a clue to more knowledgeable techies as to what has gone wrong:
ctac32k.sys
haP72K.sys
ctdnlstr.dat
ctoss2k.sys
This problem has consumed a great deal of my time, and interfered with my profession (musician). At this point I'm very frustrated, and would greatly appreciate the help of this forum.
P.S. I've created this new thread (message) rather than add a post to the "Static noise from soundcards encountered with Nvidia dual SLI" thread, because: ) I don't *think* that my GeForce 6800 is a "dual SLI" and 2) my symptoms are different, i.e., crackling and popping not just when watching video files or playing mp3's, but constantly, from first starting the computer.

Hi @Clairceg
Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome.Thank you for the detailed information very very helpful. I have looked into your issue about your HP Pavilion 15-n297sa Notebook and the popping sound or crackling noises. Here is a document on troubleshooting sound for the user profile that is experiencing the crackling.
Does this happen in the profile when they are listening to a CD?
What browser are you using? I would check to make sure the browser is up to date.
Hope this helps you.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

What's the best storage solution for a large iLife? RAID? NAS?

I'm looking for an affordable RAID storage solution for my Time Machine, iTunes Library, iMovie videos, and iPhoto Library. To this point I've been doing a hodgepodge of external hard drives without the saftey of redundancy and I've finaly been bitten with HD failures. So I'm trying to determine what would be the best recommendation for my scenario. Small Home Office for my wife's business (just her), and me with all our media. I currentlty have a mid-2010 Mac Mini (no Thunderbolt), she has an aging 2007 iMac and 2006 MacBook Pro (funny that they're all about the same benchmark speed). We have an AppleTV (original), iPad2 and two iPhone 4S's.
1st Question: Is it better to get a RAID and connect it to my Airport Extreme Base Station USB port as a shared disk? OR to connect it directly to my Mac Mini and share through Home Sharing? OR Should I go with a NAS RAID?
2nd Question: Simple is Better. Should I go with a Mac Mini Server and connect drives to it? (convert my Mac Mini into a server) or Should I just get one of those nice all-in-one 4-bay RAID drive solutions that I can expand with?
Requirements:
1. Expandable and Upgradeable. I don't want something limited to 2TB drives, but as drives get bigger and cheaper I want to easily throw one in w/o concerns.
2. Simple integration with Time Machine and my iLife: iTunes, iMovie, iPhoto. If iTune's Home Sharing feature is currently the best way of using my media across multiple devices then why mess with it? I see "DLNA certified" storage on some devices and wonder if that would just add another layer of complexity I don't need. One more piece to make compatible.
3. Inexpensive. I totally believe in the "You Get What You Pay For" concept. But I also realize sometimes I'm buying marketing, not product. I imagine that to start, I'm going to want a diskless system (because of $$$) to throw all my drives into, and then upgrade bigger drives as my data and funds grow.
4. Security. I don't know if its practical, but I like the idea of being able to pop two drives out and put them in my safe and then pop them back in once a week for the backup/mirroring. I like this idea because I'm concerned that onsite backup is not always the safest. Unfortunately those cloud based services aren't designed for Terabytes of raw family video, or an entire media library that isn't wholey from the iTunes Store. I can't be the only one facing this challenge. Surely there's an affordable way to keep a safe backup for the average Joe. But what is it?
5. Not WD. I've had bad experiences with Western Digital drives, and I loathe their consumer packaged backup software that comes preloaded on their external drives. They are what I meant when I say you get what you pay for. Prettily packed garbage.
6. Relatively Fast. I have put all my media on an external drive before (back when it fit on one drive) and there's noticeable spool-up hang time. Thunderbolt's nice and all, but so new that its not easily available across devices, nor is it cheap. eSata is not really an option. I love Firewire but I'm getting the feeling that Apple has made it the red-headed step-child of connections. USB 3.0 looks decent, but like eSata, Apple doesn't recognize it exists. Where does that leave us? Considering this dilemma I really liked Seagate's GoFlex external drives because it meant I could always buy a new base and still be compatible. But that only works with single drives. And as impressive as Seagate is, we can't expect them to consistently double drive sizes every two years like they have been -cool as that may be.
So help me out without getting too technical. What's the best setup? Is it Drobo? Thecus? ReadyNAS? Seagate's BlackArmor? Or something else entirely?
All comments are appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I am currently using WD 2TB Thunderbolt hard drive for my iTunes, which i love and is works great. i am connected directly to my Mac Book Pro. I am running low on Memory and thinking of buying a bigger Hard drive. My question is should I buy 6TB thunderbolt HD or 6TB NAS drive to work solely for iTunes. I have home sharing enabled for my Apple TV
I also have my time capsule connected just as back up only.

Make your own Fax Server with Automator! (Pagesender solution for Mavericks)

I have been scouring these discussion boards for some time now looking for a suitable substitute to PageSender, an awesome fax solution for the Mac from SmileOnMyMac LLC, which for some inexplicable reason stopped development and updates after OS 10.6.8. The result is that many small business office users who still rely on fax (and yes...no matter what they tell you, most of the business world DOES still use fax because it's legally binding and more secure than email for the transmission of legal documents or healthcare records, and does not rely on database integration accross different systems, which is sadly but very realistically still a long ways off), and no longer have a way to integrate faxes into a paperless or digital workflow office system.
I suspect like many folks who receive faxes, those who used PageSender, used a very powerful feature to forward faxes by email, thereby turning your Mac into a Fax server that could distribute your faxes to other workstations and staff throughout the business via email. Presumably, if you have your own email server (Exchange, Kerio, AppleMail server, PostFix enabler etc.) you could distribute faxes on your own internal network, securely behind a firewall, and effectively create a digitial/paperless workflow for your faxes.
Even if you have a USB modem or multifunction printer that allows you to recieve a Fax to your desktop (Apple's internal fax via printer preferences, and some HP models like the HP MFP 127fw) for example will allow you to recieve a Fax to a desktop folder or forward to a single email address. But the former is of limited functionaliy and the later only lets you send to an email address out over the internet with a registered public domain, which means you give up all control of privacy and means you can't process it through a private mail server to create a digital workflow for your office...
...Until now!!!
I am happy to report that I have finally discovered a very easy and useable feature that will save a lot of time, money, and headaches for those looking to create a digital workflow and fax server system for a small office system. (I don't think there is any limit to scale here, but I suspect offices with more than 10 employees probably have a BizHub, or HP MFP/digital sender that can create the same process directly from the printer, but of course these come with a price tag of $2000 and up...).
To accomplish this however, you will need some basic requirements which are as follows:
1) A USB modem from either US Robotics or Zoom Modem. These are readily available from Amazon, MacMall or any number of other online vendors and work very well and seemlessly with all Macs running OSX right up through Mavericks
OR
A Multifunction printer that is capable of receiving faxes to a desktop Mac like the HP 127 fw. Other models exist from other manufacturers as well, but you will have to do a bit of research and probably check with the vendor or user manual directly to confirm that Fax to desktop is supported for Mac and OS 10.9.
2) A dedicated Mail Server (MSFT Exchange, Kerio, MacOSX server with mail server enabled, or PostFix enalber or MailServe from Cutedge Systems)
You will need to set up an email account on your server that is the parent for all incoming faxes from which the faxes will be sent out as part of your digital workflow. This is beyond the scope of this discussion but if you've come this far and you're still reading, you probably know how to do this already. I recommend setting this up as a POP account, not IMAP. This way, the attatchments (your faxes) will always remain on your server as a back up, until you delete them from the server.
3) Now simply go to System preferences and select "Printers and Scanners". Select either the Fax printer for your multifunction printer, or add a fax printer/reviever using the + button and select "Fax" if you are using a USB modem. You must have the USB modem attatched to the computer in order to use the built-in Apple Fax feature for the latter option.
4) Now click on the receive options. Select "Recieve faxes to this computer" and set your ring answer settings. Check "Save to" and select the designated folder (either Faxes or Shared Faxes on your computer) or create a new folder. Depending on the volume of faxes, and your back up systems, you may want to designate a separate folder on a separate drive, exclusively for your Faxes. This is where all your faxes will be stored.
5) Now launch "Automator" in your applications folder and create a new workflow. You will be presented with several options. Select "Folder Action".
6) At the top right of the window space you will see "Folder Action receives files and folders added to" . Select the Fax folder you created in step 4.
7)On the left hand side of the "Actions" menu select "Mail"
8) From the list of actions select "New Mail Message" this will take the latest Fax added to your Fax folder and attach it as a PDF to a new outgoing mail. In the "TO" address put the email address that belongs to the parent account your created for the Faxes on your mail server eg. [email protected]. In the subject field you can put "Fax Workflow" or any other generic subject that will identify to all reciptients that this is an email that contains a Fax/PDF attatchment.
Under "account" use the SMTP account you set up on your mail server to handle the routing of internal emails. In most cases, this will be the same as the parent account created above. (Effectively, this account is sending and receiving emails to itself).
9) From the list of actions, select "Send outgoing messages".
10) Save the Automator workflow with a name like "FaxDistribution" or "FaxFlow".
11) Go back to the Fax folder you created in step 4. Right click or option click on the folder and scroll down the options menu and select "Folder Actions Setup". You will see a list of scripts including the Automator workflow you just created. Choose it.
That's it!! From now on, when you get a fax, it will get dumped into the designated fax folder, and this will automatically trigger the workflow to atttach and send it as an email to anyone in your office that is set up to receive emails with the "faxserver" address. You now have a paperless fax digital workflow server system for distributing your faxes digitally to anyone in your office who needs to review your faxes. Good luck!

Thank you for this interesting posting.

Any solution for Windows 8.1 System Image Backup on DVD fails with error 0x80040154??(apart taking backup in external drive)

Windows 8.1 is facing a problem while taking System Image Backup on DVD, it pops an error saying 0x80040154 and more it says that class is not registered , i am trying from days to find some optimum solution for it apart from taking it on external
hard drive...any suggestion please let me know asap!
regards!

Hi,
Check this article first:
0x80040154 error may occur when you create a system image backup in Windows 8.1
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2934165/en-us
Please capture the system event during you reproing this issue by using Process monitor:
Process Monitor v3.05
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb896645.aspx
If there is any Access denied error, follow this blog to solve this issue.
Solving Access Denied Errors Using Process Monitor
http://improve.dk/solving-access-denied-errors-using-process-monitor/
You can also upload the saved log file here for our research. Please upload them to a file sharing service like Skydrive or "Rapidshare" and put a link to them in your reply.
Kate Li
TechNet Community Support

Specify image for a pop-up LOV in a tabular form?

Hi,
I am using a tabular form for users to edit data. One of the fields has too many options to use a select list, so I have to use a pop-up lov (query based)... grrrr
The lov shows up in my form as [Field value]List
I would like to remove the text "List" and put a small icon there. Where can I specify the image source?
Thanks,
Rob

Hi Denes,
Thanks for your reply. I looked at your page, but I'm not sure if it relates to my issue.
Here's a piece of the generated HTML for the pop-up lov:
<span class="lov">
<label class="hideMe508" for="f03_0004">f03_0004</label>
<input id="f03_0004" type="text" value="U41" maxlength="2000" size="8" name="f03"/>
<img align="middle" style="vertical-align: middle; cursor: pointer;" alt="List"/>
</span>Notice that there is an image tag, but the src attribute is not there...as a result the browser displays the alt text List.
If I missed your solution I apologise...

Best email solution for the iPhone

After having messed with this since Friday, I've concluded that GMail is the best solution for iPhone email as of today. Let me explain.
Yahoo Push would be the best if I could specify a different reply-to address. As it stands now, having my emails come from a @yahoo.com address is not acceptable. It seems Yahoo IMAP is the only IMAP that supports push (a marketing decision apparently moreso than a technical one), so push is out until Yahoo or Apple come to their senses.
AT&T is not offering any email options through their service. I used to have mymmode email but that was years ago, and cingularme is down for some reason. Apparently AT&T wants your money for your voice business, but take your email needs elsewhere.
Enter GMail. IF you configre GMail using the GMail option on the iPhone, it forces a @gmail.com address too. However, you can use the Other option and configure using the GMail incoming server (pop.gmail.com), and you can specify the user name ([email protected]) but a different address ([email protected]).
Now, this seems to work only if you use an outgoing server OTHER than GMail's (smtp.gmail.com). During my testing I sent an email and it seemed to come from [email protected] even though I had specified a different address in the Address field. I did not test much as I have another outgoing email option.
As I have Verizon FIOS at home, I can use my outgoing.verizon.net server authenticating using my Verizon.net address. The added bonus here is that it works in either WiFi or Edge, as Verizon's server doesnt care where you are as long as you authenticate.
My email IDs are overrun with SPAM and GMails SPAM filters are excellent. this has the added bonus of cutting down on unwanted email on the iPhone.
Thoughts?

I am essentially doing the same thing for my Exchange account, which SMTP server can't be reached while off of the campus. I use AT&T's own SMTP server for wireless (cwmx.com, I think), and it doesn't change my From: address, so it shows as though I sent it from my campus's Exchange server. Very handy indeed!

Solution for crackling/popping so

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