Spam that won't stop!
Is anyone really going to see this? I keep getting spam (various companies). All seem to be coming thru ONE company:Shotzi HostingPO BOX 29502#31213Las Vegas, NV 89126-9502 I have clicked on the "unsubscribe" button, or whatever they choose to call it. They keep coming.I have put each and every one into the SPAM folder. They keep coming. A bit frustrated! kermpls
Hitting the Unsubscribe button on Spam mail just verifies that the email address is valid and you get more. Kind of like hitting the number robo call telemarketers say will remove you from their phone list. I set up email filters on the Xfinity Connect email page when I get things like that to delete them. I also set up rules like that on my email program to do the same thing.Maybe this link will help a bithttp://forums.comcast.com/t5/E-Mail-and-Xfinity-Connect-Help/E-Mail-Client-Settings-customer-generated/m-p/778889#U778889
Similar Messages
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Every time I open Mozilla Firefox, there is an annoying sound that won't stop, and it sounds kind of like pac man. I t won't stop, and I have no idea where it is coming from. I have tried everything. Any suggestions on what I should do?
== This happened ==
Every time Firefox opened
== I opened firefox today, and it won't stop.It's just the Google homepage tribute to Pacman turning 30 today. A playable game starts up automatically, use the arrow keys to move Pacman. It's fun!
You can get Ms Pacman to appear in that game by clicking the "insert coin" button twice and using the WASD keys to move :)
You can also just change your homepage to something other than google until tomorrow. -
I get very small windows popping up on the screen on top of anything else I'm doing regardless of what apps I'm running or not running. If I R-click on the icon in the task bar, it's identified as "plugin-container.exe"
The window doesn't say why it's there, but only displays a 3 digit number (for example the on on the screen now says 587) and allows only the usual X to close, or an 'OK' button to close. But a short time later it pops up again.
I'm running Windows 7 64bit MS Security Essentials and Firefox, though it will pop up even if I just booted and haven't started Firefox yet.
It's really (really really) annoying. How can I fix it or disable it or whatever it takes to make it STOP.
Perhaps if I had some idea what it was I could attack it that way, but I haven't a clue. BTW, I've cleaned the registry, and done full scan's for virus and turned up nada.
Thanks.
D.As per the web site:
There will be no update to Waterfox 25.0 as a bug causes Adobe Flash to crash on 64-Bit Windows 7 systems. Bug here. Although Firefox 25.0.1 is now available and we could build it, there would be no point of releasing a new version of Waterfox for only two weeks.
I mostly only use Waterfox and had no problem in the past. I suspect a flash problem may be at the root of my problem however.
As stated, I've performed (full) virus scans with MS Security Essentials. Also with Housecall, and also with HiJackThis. No problems detected.
Screen shot of popup window attached. -
There was a closed question where someone had the same issue. Unfortunately it didn't go well, and an answer was not provided. A screen shot was requested but the user was unable to capture an image. I have an image of the problem in a screen shot. I don't know how to upload it to here though.
In the bottom left corner of my firefox browser, on all sites, ads appear. Ads for things like patriot4power, arrest records now public, this one food makes you fat, and so forth. I run Mcafee and Norton (yep - both alternatively) - so I'm fairly sure it isn't some kind of virus. I checked for Malware and it was clean also. Help?
It's very hard to complete homework, browse, fill in screens, etc. with ads popping up over and over that take up about 1/8th of the bottom left of the screen.You can't attach a screenshot to the first post that starts a thread, but you can do that in subsequent replies.
Please update to the current Firefox 23 release.
*Help > About Firefox
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/update-firefox-latest-version.
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Updating+Firefox
The Firefox 12 version that you currently run is no longer supported with security updates.
*It is important to update Firefox and add-ons to the latest version to get all security fixes. -
How do I get rid of the pop up boxes that come up when I start a video? I can't click on anything, because it looks like they don't load properly. I have seen other people mentioning this but haven't seen a solution yet. Thanks!
Any chance you could take a screenshot of these dialogs and post them here? What browser and OS are you using? If they are Flash storage setting dialogs, try going into your Flash Player control panel. Select the storage tab, then select "Allow sites to save information on this computer".
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I have a plug-in that won't stop 'waiting' when I try to install it. How do I get it removed?
I have a plug-in I've tried to download from another website. For some reason it got stuck 'waiting' during installation. I want to get rid of it so I can try again, but I can't do anything.
Hi ..
Go to ~/Library/Safari then move these files to the Trash.
Downbloads.plist
History.plist
LastSession.plist
WebpageIcons.db
Restart your Mac, try Safari.
~ (Tilde) character represents the Home folder
For Lion v10.7x: To find the Home folder in OS X Lion, open the Finder, hold the Option key, and choose Go > Library -
Reminder that won't stop warning me. Help!
Although I deleted the reminder I previously needed to create, it keeps on warning me every day, sometimes twice a day. This reminder if unfoundable on my iPhone. How can I ultimately delete it?
Me too... It makes me crazy....
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hello , ive reset my iPhone 5 and the option i selected was the one where all you content gets removed as i wanted , but now my screen has gone black and all that appears is the white circular loading sign which keeps spining. it won't stop ? help?! im not able to access my iphone becasue of this and i dont know what to do
I just tried deleteing every smart mailbox and re-constituting a few. This went OK until I made one that had to reference a Gmail IMAP 'folder' and as soon I did that ... BAM! ... the infinite spinner appears.
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When I'm on Facebook, the activity wheel won't stop spinning. I have to hold down tap and open pics in a separate tab if I want to enlarge them. I used to be able to double tap on the pic to see it bigger. Also, i cant click on links within Facebook. Why is it doing this?
I figured out that the problem was. Facebook was adding some features. While this was taking place, some of the basic commands wasn't working. It's seems to be working fine now that they've finished working on it.
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Hi I have downloaded compressor4 from Apps store but it won't open - says compressor not properly installed. The reason for my purchase was that compressor 3 stopped working. I tried to reinstall from the FCP disk but it was 'greyed out'. I followed suggestions from the apple site to clear various library files - mainly relating to Qmaster but this didn't make any difference, an iwonder igf perhaps this is the reason for the compressor 4 programme not working. Thanks
TomYou need to export a self-contained video from FCP 6. Import the self-contain video into Compressor 4.
•iMac 27", 3.4GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7, 16GB 1333MHz DDR3, 2TB HD + 256GB SSD, AMD Radeon HD 6970M 2GB GDDR5•FCS 3•Compressor 4•OS X 10.7 (Lion)•iPad 1&2•Apple Tv 2• -
Latest version of Firefox is having problems loading some sites, it tries to load and then gets taken over trying to load Google Analytics. No error messages, just a page that won't load. How do I get rid of this, it is a "pain in the neck"
== URL of affected sites ==
http://I just spent 3 days with this issue as well. I finally fixed it by reluctantly adding yet another add-on called ADBLOCK
I was able to selectively block google-analytics. Now pages that weren't loading before are now loading.
eg vimeo.com starbucks.com & other random sites.
This was a tough one to fix because there is NO ERROR MESSAGE..page just shows it's loading...forever..& the bottom of my browser says 'waiting for google analytics'. I finally figured out google analytics is the culprit. Ironically, some help pages in trying to find a fix wouldn't load for me due to google analytics arghhh!
Im on a macbookpro & Safari worked fine for these same sites. It was just Firefox. I nearly switched back to Safari because of this stupid issue.
I'm wondering if this was caused by recent firefox 'updates'... -
Action steps that won't run correctly in PSE 7/8/9 (but did in 4 and 6)
I have a wonderful action that was written to work in PSE 3/4/6. It won't run in PSE 7/8/9. After fooling around for a while, I think I understand why. Adobe changed the way Adjustment Layers are handled. In earlier versions of Photoshop and Elements, Adjustment Layers threw up a modal dialog box. That changed so that Adjustment Layers now appear in the Palette Bin as a palette.
Here a sample of some of the action steps that won't work correctly:
Make adjustment layer
Using: adjustment layer
Type: levels
Set Selection
To: none
Set current layer
To: layer
Name: “Adjustment 1”
Set current layer
To: layer
Mode: luminosity
Stop
Message: “Move gray slider left”
With Continue
Set current adjustment layer
To: levels
In earlier versions of PS and PSE, the way these steps would work is that a new adjustment layer would be created, the dialog box giving the instruction would open, it would be dismissed by clicking "Continue," and then the "Set current adjustment layer to: Levels" would generate a model adjustment layer dialog box would open up which would let one make the adjustment.
In newer versions, since Adjustment Layers are handled in the Palette Bin, after dismissing the instructions, the action doesn't stop to allow the user to make change the sliders on the adjustment layer.
The action runs perfectly in CS4 and CS5 and throws up the levels adjustment modal box as it did in PSE 4 and PSE 6, but the action doesn't throw the modal box in PSE 7/8/9
Does anyone know of a way to alter the action steps to allow the action to stop to allow the adjustment and then to resume again?Adding a new levels adjustment layer on top of the Midtone contrast layer
should work, just use a clipping mask to restrict the adjustments to the
areas of the levels adjustment layer below. The histogram will be different, but
actually testing the action is really the only way to know if that makes any difference.
Replacing the levels adjustment layer is another option, though it requires a few more steps.
The following assumes when the action gets to this point,
the Midtone contrast adjustment layer is the active (selected) layer.
To record this part of the action:
1. Duplicate current channel (in the channels panel. drag the Midtone contrast mask
down to the Create new channel icon at the bottom of the channels panel)
2. Ctrl+click on the newly created channel (Midtone contrast mask copy)
This loads the selection of that channel.
3. Drag the new channel (midtone contrast mask copy) to the trash icon at the bottom
of the channels panel.
4. Back in the layers panel, delete the Midtone Contrast adjustment layer.
5. Go to Layer>New Adjustment Layer>Levels
This creates a new levels adjustment layer using the selection loaded from
the duplicated channel and opens the levels dialog.
To load the RGB (composite) as a selection, Ctrl+click on the rgb in the channels panel
and the same is true for the red, green and blue channels.
With layer masks, elements doesn't seem to want to load them as selections in actions,
so that's the reason for the action steps above.
MTSTUNER -
Timer won't stop on Weblogic 10.3.2
Hi,
I have a bean with a JEE TimerService. The client calls that bean to create a timer with an initualDuration, say after 5 seconds.
After the 5 seconds are up, the timeout method is reached.
Everything works fine.
The problem is that the timer doesn't stop. The documentation says that a Timer with an initialDuration only (not intervalDuration) should stop after a single timeout has occured.
But this doesn't happen. The timerout is reached after another 5 seconds, and another, and another etc.
I even tell the timer to cancel itself inside the timeout method (timer.cancel()), but that won't help either.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.Hello,
Umm... i am trying to explain my opinion about your questions ...
The problem is that the timer doesn't stop. The documentation says that a Timer with an initialDuration only (not intervalDuration)
should stop after a single timeout has occured.I think that maybe a description dok problem ... a "timer" have to fire from timeservice from a period, but .. is always it the same timer "object"? .. no, it is not ..
you need a "clock" indeed a "timer" ...
If you need to set a intervalduration, you have to do a transaction setting the time-out on it ... in a cmp ejb timer, use <trans-timeout-seconds>, and the timer will be killed after this time ...
But this doesn't happen. The timerout is reached after another 5 seconds, and another, and another etc.This is that do ... another and another, but running differents objects ... watch out the workmanager pool ....
I even tell the timer to cancel itself inside the timeout method (timer.cancel()), but that won't help either.maybe ... the timer you are using is marked into the timers collection from timerservice ... if you call cancel and the timer is marked running, the cancel call will be rejected ... you need to search into all timers and cancel using your id ...
Regards -
Repairing laptops that won't boot and show the blinking caps
Here's a little tutorial for all of you who have this annoying issue. It mostly applies to the 1 blink code (other codes have much simpler and straightforward solutions).
Ok, so the code says that it's caused because of a not functional CPU. That is most likely not the case. Most people who had the 1 blink code actually had a problem with the integrated video graphics card or northbridge of their laptops, not the CPU (in fact, CPU failures are quite uncommon). The problem is that these chips overheat quite often, they don't have good cooling and dissipation systems (most of the time, it is shared with the CPU which is absolutely insane), and the solder connections are of very bad quality. So with overheating, solder points start fracturing or cracking and they stop making contact, which causes all these issues, including the infamous RRoD and YLoD issues in the Xbox and Playstation consoles with their soldered video chips.
So there are two main ways of dealing with this:
1 - Reflow
This is a short-term but easy solution that simply consists of reheating the damaged component to the point of getting rid of said fractures. It has a high success rate, as many people will tell you. It worked for me always, but again, after some time the issue may come back. Still, this is a very simple solution that doesn't require too much skill or equipment and is satisfying enough for most users. This is what I'm going to show how to do in this tutorial.
2 - Reball
Reflowing doesn't always work, and when it does, it doesn't last long. Instead, reballing is a permanent solution which consists of removing the chip in its entirety and replacing all the solder contacts. Reballing requires specific equipment (a reball station), reballing stencils and leaded solder balls. It is a long procedure, which requires some skill and it only should be performed by experienced people. When a reflow won't work, you are better off sending your laptop to a reballing technician, or buying a new one (which would be a waste, in my opinion).
Ok, so how can we do a reflow? There are many ways to do this:
1) Reheating your laptop: This is a simple as it sounds. Some people call it the "blanket" method, because you can just simply turn on your laptop, wrap it with a blanket or sweater and let it run until it shuts down because of overheating. I absolutely don't recommend doing this, as there are probably many working components (particularly the hard drive holding your data) that won't benefit from the overheating. I recommend disassembling the laptop and taking out all the good parts, like the hard drive, RAM sticks and any extra PCI-e cards installed. After that you can just simply unplug the cooling fan connector from the board then turn the laptop on. This will cause it to overheat faster, so you won't have to waste hours waiting for it to get hot (using the blanket method, it can take a lot of time). Most laptops will shutdown themselves after reaching a certain threshold temperature, if yours doesn't, well, just keep an eye on it so you can turn it off before it catches fire. After it turns off, let it rest and cool for at least an hour, then connect the cooling fan again, turn the laptop on and see if it boots. If it doesn't, well, you can keep trying this until it does (not recommended after 3 tries or so), or try the next methods.
2) The oven method: This a bit tricky, but it may be more successful in some cases. First, strip down your computer until you get to the bare board holding the video chip. Remove the CPU, heatsink & fan, RAM, BIOS battery, wires, speakers, stickers, plastic sticky guards, foam spacers, absolutely everything that can be removed from the motherboard. Then preheat your household oven to approximately 200°C or 385°F. If your oven does not have a digital temperature display, perhaps use an internal oven thermometer to make sure the oven is in the right temperature range. Roll up some kitchen foil into balls, between half an inch and an inch wide, and place them on a baking tray. Place your motherboard, with CPU socket and GPU facing upwards, on top of the foil balls. It is a good idea to wrap additional foil around the more sensitive parts of the motherboard, like areas where there are capacitors and the CPU socket.
Try to wrap the rest of the motherboard in foil to protect it, leaving just the GPU exposed on both the top and bottom of the motherboard. Then place the baking tray with the laptop motherboard on it into the preheated oven.
Make sure your kitchen is well ventilated at this stage, turn on the extractor fan to full power and/or open an outside door and windows. This will help to take away any fumes. Ideally, you should leave the kitchen while any fumes are still present. A couple of times during the procedure, have a quick look through the oven door (without opening it) making sure there are no smoke or flames visible. This is unlikely to occur, but can happen if stickers were left on the motherboard. After 8 minutes, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Do not remove the motherboard from the oven at this stage, it could be very hot and it is a better idea to allow it to cool down gradually. Take care not to inhale any fumes that might be present. After 20 minutes to half an hour, remove the cool motherboard from the oven and begin rebuilding your laptop. If all has gone well, it will boot up and the problem will be fixed. If the problem remains, you could try the procedure again, leaving it in the oven for a couple of minutes longer.
After performing a reflow in an oven, I recommend cleaning the oven thoroughly, then turn it on and allow any fumes that may have built up to be completely removed. This is especially important before cooking food in the oven again.
3) The heat gun method: Probably the best way to do a reflow, it is less destructive than the previous method (as you can focus on a single place, rather than overheating the entire board), but it may be worse than the first. The first step is to test out how well your heat gun will melt the solder. Place a chunk of solder on a coin, hold the heat gun one inch above it and record how long it takes the solder to flow. Once you have the timing right, mask off the motherboard (already removed from the case) so that just the chip in question is accessible. Reflow with the same spacing and timing as you did during the coin test.
Did it work?
If your laptop works now, then you can do a couple of extra things to avoid this problem in the future:
Avoid overheating by underclocking the CPU: You can run your laptop's CPU at a lower clock speed (it will run slower, BUT not as much as you think. Undercloking by a 50% doesn't mean your laptop will perform 50% slower). It not only protects your laptop from damaging over time, it has the added benefits of making it run *much* cooler and quieter and also having longer battery life, which is awesome as well. To do this, simply (in Windows 7 and up) click the battery icon in your notification area, select More power options, then change the selected plan (like Balanced) settings (click on Change plan settings), select Change advanced power settings, scroll down and, under Processor power management, Maximum processor state, type on both 'On Battery' and 'Plugged in' a value less than 50%. Change Minimum processor state to 1% and then System cooling policy to Active.
Avoid playing heavy games and running intensive applications: Such programs very often cause the underpowered integrated graphics card and CPU to overheat, which causes all these issues. Use a desktop machine with dedicated graphics for such programs if you want your laptop to last.
Again, always take out the hard drive before any of these procedures if you don't wanna lose any data, and if you can, any other components that can get damaged in the way. Note that a reflow, particularly the oven or heat gun methods are usually last-ditch resorts because they can permanently damage your computer, in particular if performed incorrectly. DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK. I can't be held responsible for any accidents or unwanted results that may occur after following this tutorial. If you have doubts, then you're generally better off sending your laptop to professional technicians than trying to repair these kind of issues by yourself. Unless a repair costs more than replacing your laptop, that is.
And before starting any of these procedures, try to research your issue on the Internet as much as you can. Search for your particular model, search in this exact same forum and any other as you'll be able to read about people experiencing this problem. You can search reflow on your favorite search engine and you'll find detailed tutorials and many videos which will show the procedure and help you do a better repair. Once you're very comfortable and knowledgeable with the subject, you can go ahead with the repair.This is actually good stuff and well written but I hesitate to advise people to use either the "oven trick" or really even the heat gun method as both are notriously short-lived even if they appear effective. Your far better bet is to send the board in to one of the vendors on the internet who are set up to do a proper reball. Even those fixes are good for maybe 12-18 mos. But again, you get a high grade for spelling it out.
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Text won't stop deleting, delete key appears to get "stuck"
Sorry if this is in the wrong topic, I have never used the support forums for any of the multitude of problems I have had with my Mac, but this one is severe and odd enough that I couldn't even find anyone else discussing it (although I'm sure someone is, but I tried many search key combinations on Google and only found unrelated things), so I decided to at least get it documented.
I have had an issue that has happened at least 3 times I can remember (I am fairly certain it has happened more, closer to 7-8, those are just the times I am 100% confident about), although very spaced apart and infrequent, where my delete/backspace key seems to get "stuck". However, at least one time I can verify that I never even hit the key. Whatever text I currently have open immediately starts deleting at lightspeed, and I can do nothing to stop it. None of the other keys on my keyboard work, and though my mouse works, if I click somewhere else, it starts deleting the text there. When I force it to go to another window where there isn't an open text box, I get the general Mac error sound, and it repeats non-stop, and faster than I've ever heard it. I have to do a hard shut-down, although once it led to a kernal panic. When I have stopped whatever is happening before it panics though, when I restart, I don't receive any kind of error message, nor the message about OS X not having been shut down properly.
Every single time it has happened when I was typing something that couldn't be saved, like a message on a forum, a private message on a site or an IM chat window. Sometimes I lost a half hour's worth of work or more.
The first time it happened, I honestly thought someone had managed to hack into my computer, but another time I was using a physical modem and Airport was turned off, and when I ripped out the cord, it didn't stop.
I have a MacBook Pro from 2007, running the most recent version of Tiger. I haven't had the money to upgrade. All security updates are up-to-date, with one exception: I have not upgraded to the most recent version of iTunes.
Honestly, I currently am having and have been having a bunch of other severe issues with my Mac, so troubleshooting will be quite difficult as it's not at all impossible it's a result of one of my other problems. I also currently am dealing with some health problems that make me unable to try to find the root of the problem, specifically I have a problem with my hand and wrist that makes typing very difficult.
If someone does recognize this issue and already knows why it might be happening, I'd appreciate the help. I'd also appreciate anyone letting me know how I can prevent it OR what to do when it begins and how to stop it. But I probably will be unable to go through a typical troubleshooting rundown.
As I said, I just wanted this documented, and I also would like to know if anyone else has had this problem. I have never experienced an issue like this with any of my past computers, including Macs and PCs. I do know however that the key is NOT physically getting stuck - as in getting lodged down and continuing to be pressed. There is at least 1 time I can verify I never even hit the key (I wasn't typing anything at the time). I am fairly sure the problem is entirely unrelated to the actual delete key itself.
I'll describe the symptoms one more time:
At a random time, with no discernible warning, text contained in whatever text box I have open begins deleting itself. Several paragraphs disappear in a matter of seconds.
Pressing escape or any other key on the keyboard does nothing. If I click to another area in the text, it will immediately begin deleting wherever I have placed the cursor. If I go to another window with text that can be edited, it begins deleting there. It does not delete in more than one place simultaneously.
If I bring another window without any kind of "deletable" text to the front, one of the general Mac error sounds (I'm not sure which one it is) starts happening and repeats without stopping at a rate that could induce a seizure. To stop it all, the only thing I have found can be done is a hard shut-down. Another time it continued to end in a kernal panic. I wish I had the details of the error, but it was so long ago and I have no idea which panic is the right one in the logs.
I have no way of knowing what programs were running at the time, as obviously that's not something I'm able to pay attention to when it happens, and it has happened so randomly and infrequently it's nothing I've been able to document. Since I have to restart to make it stop, I've then lost that info and I have no time to try to write it down or something beforehand.
I have not had any similar issues that I know of (for instance, for the "g" key keeps repeating and won't stop typing "g's") and I've never experienced this on any past computer.
Thanks for anyone who can help!
If you aren't able to offer advice but have had this issue yourself, PLEASE let me know. I can't seem to find anyone who has experienced this particular problem."Cleaning the keyboard is the first step in troubleshooting sticky/stuck keys."
Okay, I guess I misunderstood, although I am still confused. You're saying that since the other user did an extensive clean of their keyboard and this did not solve the problem, it is "most likely" a hardware problem, correct? Wouldn't a thorough cleaning without any results show that it's probably not physically related to the keyboard?
"The "delete" key may be defective or the cover you are using somehow is making the key stick. If you have ruled out the latter and everything else, your only other alternative is to take the MBP to your local Apple Store or AASP. The staff will check out your keyboard (free) to confirm if you are having a hardware problem. If you have AppleCare or ProCare, the repairs will be free. If not.................."
Well, I had just said in my most recent post that it has now happened with other keys, and in my initial post that it happened at times when my hands were nowhere near the keyboard. It is not a defective delete key and the cover is not making the keys stick - it doesn't adhere to them and does not have any sticky substance on it of any kind. I am an experienced computer user, and I know my computer very well. While I am not a psychic that can always know what is causing a problem, I am able to discern with much accuracy what is NOT causing it.
Also, I have significant health issues so getting to an Apple store would be a huge challenge for me. And although I have AppleCare any repairs won't be free. Due to some small physical damage my laptop obtained a few years ago, I have been completely refused almost all service that I paid over $300 for, even though the damage is completely superficial. After fighting this, I was told they WOULD repair my computer, however, they would also repair the physical damage despite my insisting NOT to; I had no choice in the matter and the cost would be a minimum of $1,500 (I also would not be informed the exact price until after and my credit card would be charged without my knowledge - I had to give them my credit card number and sign away their right to make any charges and when I requested being contacted before they charged me for the repairs I didn't want done, I was told they did not do that). My family is struggling to pay for my $5 medications.
When my logic board died (that same issue that affected thousands of computer users), I had to print out Apple's report from their site, which stated that they would replace and repair them free of charge to ANY Mac owner with a computer that met certain qualifications (which mine did). When it happened, completely out of nowhere, I knew immediately that was the problem, yet still had to go through the insulting and idiotic "Is your computer plugged in?" list of things and a customer WITH AppleCare was being refused a service they'd offered to people WITHOUT AppleCare, for a known manufacturing defect that has occurred widely in nearly every brand of computer made.
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