Strange monitor lines [advice request]

I'm getting strange RGB vertical lines on my monitor that come and go less than daily. These lines are effected by the on screen windows; They actually arc around whatever is on the screen. And screen shots don't pick them up. My gut instinct tells me that it's the video card going bad. I hope so anyway; The monitor was purchased new around month ago, and it wasn't cheap. The video card is a nVidia 7600GT and has functioned perfectly with the current drivers from extra since they were released. I don't have another machine with digital outputs to give an honest monitor test, and even if I did, predicting when the lines come could require days of operation. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to troubleshoot this problem?

I discovered something strange. The fancy lines come in when Thunar/gamin are in "runaway process mode". The lines came back as soon as Thunar locked up. I started up conky and confirmed 100% usage on core one, opened a terminal, killall Thunar, and the lines stopped. I tried some video encoding to get core one to 100% and everything went smoothly like always. I'm currently trying to get Thunar to lock up in just the right way to see if I can reproduce the same results. (The right way meaning 100% processor power. Getting Thunar to lock up is extremely easy. Maybe I should reinstall fam in order to double the crashes for testing purposes!)
--EDIT--
Pure luck. It happened again without any recent Thunar activity. Hopefully the new video card resolves the issue. If not, it's an excellent upgrade anyhow!
Last edited by skottish (2008-02-03 03:01:58)

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UNITED KINGDOM 08705-500-900
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Message Edited by lead_org on 07-27-2009 10:24 AM
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Please help with strange monitor/Lightroom 4 interaction problem

I bought a Dell Ultrasharp U3011 yesterday, and I'm now facing a very strange problem. It's sort of related to the common discussed issue of Lightroom's color management, but there is a twist here. I'll explain.
The monitor I had been using (and still have) was a Samsung SyncMaster 244T. I had no problems at all with it.
With the U3011, I've run into this problem:
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And then things got even more weird. When I dragged the Lightroom window fully to one monitor or the other, Lightroom actually started changing the colors right before my eyes as it responded to which monitor was displaying which photo! Lightroom was somehow interacting with the monitor in real-time. So if the Before looked muted on U3011 and the After looked vivid on the 244T, when I drag the whole window into 244T, the muted Before will stay muted for about a second or so, and then it'll suddenly change and become identical to After. And when I did the reverse (drag the window into U3011), the reverse also happened--the vivid After will stay vivid on U3011 for about a second or so, and then it would suddenly change and become muted. Lightroom was identifying each monitor's color profile setting and changing the images according to which monitor was doing the displaying, and when the images were split between the two monitors, Lightroom was slitting them into two different settings to match whichever monitor is displaying which side.
So what the hell does that all mean, and what can I do to get Lightroom to display the photos so that they look the same as on all the other software I mentioned (so I don't have to play the guessing game of editing the images, export them out to other software to check how they turned out). Also, remember that I didn't have this problem with the 244T--Lightroom displayed the photos the same way as the other software I mentioned. The problem right now is that the U3011 is somehow causing Lightroom to display the photos differently, and no color profile presets in the OSD control can make them match.
I need to solve this problem, or else my last resort would be to return the U3011 and try another brand/model and see if that helps.
Any ideas?

Yes, that's basically sensible advice you got there (but I was more succinct ).
An important point that was mentioned over there is that you must not confuse document/source profile with monitor profile. They are both links in the color management chain, but they serve different purposes. The document profile defines the colors in a standard color space. The monitor profile describes the monitor's own native color space - its response to the RGB numbers it's fed. So one is translated into the other, by the application on the fly, through a normal profile conversion, and that way the colors appear on-screen as intended.
If those two profiles/color spaces are roughly similar, as they would be in the case of an sRGB document displayed on a standard gamut display - then you can get by without color management. It won't look too far off. But a wide gamut monitor changes the rules, because its native color space is not similar to sRGB, it's much closer to Adobe RGB.
Anyway, this is what color management is about. Any profile can be translated into any other. So in this context it doesn't really matter what color space the document is in - as long as you have a good monitor profile it will display correctly (within practical limitations). Lightroom is a sort of special case because its internal working color space is not one of the standard ones, instead it's a modified ProPhoto space with linear gamma. But the basic principle is exactly the same: source profile > monitor profile.
Just to go a little more in-depth while I'm at it: When you calibrate a display you actually do two separate things. You first calibrate it to a more or less standardized response. But that's just a linear one-dimensional correction. It does nothing about how color is actually reproduced, how red is red for instance. The calibration is global and affects everything system-wide because it's read into the video card or monitor hardware.
Then, once calibrated, a monitor profile is made. This is a full, complete and accurate description of the monitor's behavior, in three-dimensional color space. The precision level is much higher. This profile is used, by color managed applications like Lightroom and Photoshop, to display the image.
Other applications that are not color managed will simply ignore this profile, and send the RGB numbers straight through to the display, unmodified. With a standard gamut monitor (and an sRGB document) the difference won't be too dramatic and you may not notice it unless you look closely. But a wide gamut monitor will make the difference jump out immediately.

Color Adjustment Advice Request

Good Evening
I am requesting help with correcting some color issues with this image of one of my acrylic on canvas paintings. I am NOT having color issues with any of the other photos I have taken of my other paintings, just this one. (I calibrated my monitors with ColorMunki Display the other day.)
The image below was saved as a web version for posting here. It was originally a .NEF that I converted to a .TIF and I even tried saving it as a .JPG and viewing it outside of PSE. I have not yet tried to correct the black portion or anything else yet in this particular copy of the image below.
This particular image is one of probably 100 I have taken. I have tried various light sources and three different cameras. The third camera is a Canon D3200 and I have tried many, many different settings, this image was taken with this camera. The strange thing to me is not even this "good" camera shows the greenish color even in the camera view window or on the camera LCD screen. Again, this is the only subject so far I am having this difficulty with.
The bluer areas are possibly the best I can do as far as being representative of the original painting. THE ISSUE IS THE "GREEN" AREAS.
I can not get them to be a good/acceptable representation of the color of the original painting.
I have tried many various tools and adjustments and still can not attain a result I am satisfied with. I am still learning the PSE program and perhaps I just have not hit upon the tool or combination of tools I need.
I'd like to select ONLY the areas that are supposed to be the green color/tone/hue? and adjust them to make them more vivid/bright? Especially the area to the left of the eye which in this image appears almost blackish. In the original those areas are not blackish, they are the greenish like the other areas that are supposed to be greenish. These green areas here appear too dull and washed out.
I have tried the MAGIC WAND but I don't think I'm adjusting it correctly. I either get too much area or too little. I have tried contiguious and not contiguous. Is this indeed the best tool for this job? Also, which tool should I be using or adjustment should I be making to obtain what I am looking for? The ADJUST HUE SATURATION? THE BRIGHTNESS CONTRAST? Which one?
If more clarification is needed I'll be here all night to provide it.
THANK YOU SOOO MUCH for any assistance.
P.

Good morning everyone
Have you ever been asleep and then have an idea pop into your mind as you are waking up? I did, this morning. But I don't know what to do with it or if I should bother. Maybe someone has some input for me?
(I did speak with a technical support person at Nikon yesterday who tried to help me. He gave me guidance on various settings for my camera that should have helped me get better results. I was to take multiple pictures with different settings and email them to him. I did take the photos, approximately 40 of them at all conceivable settings, including the settings he specifically suggested. I did this OUTDOORS and INDOORS. The outdoor lighting was supposed to be, according to everything I have read, ideal...cloudy day. None of the images are acceptable to me. Not in the camera LCD screen, which I KNOW is not where one should make ultimate decisions about their images, nor on my computer monitor. The images appear on my computer monitor as they do in the camera LCD screen by the way.
I also decided to PRINT a number of the images hoping that this would isolate the issue. The images printed out pretty much exactly like the images in the LCD monitor and the computer monitor. I KNOW I SHOULD GIVE UP AND JUST BUY THE DEVICES AND SOFTWARE THAT ARE OUT THERE TO FIX THIS ENTIRE ISSUE, I JUST DIDN'T REALIZE I PROBABLY NEEDED THEM. I INITIALLY THOUGHT PROPERLY CALIBRATING THE MONITOR WAS ALL THAT NEEDED TO BE DONE. I HAVE LEARNED AS I HAVE GONE ALONG THAT THERE ARE OTHER CALIBRATIONS THAT SHOULD BE DONE AND I WILL PURCHASE THE NECESSARY ITEMS. I JUST WANT TO SEE WHAT I CAN DO IN THE MEANTIME WITH WHAT I HAVE AVAILABLE. AND I STILL WONDER WHY THE CAMERA IS DOING SUCH A POOR JOB WITH THE COLORS AS WELL, AT LEAST I'M THINKING THERE IS AN ISSUE WITH THE CAMERA TOO?)
SOOO, back to my idea. When I woke up I thought to myself, I wonder how the images would look if I SCANNED the painting with my extra printer's scanner bed? The painting is small enough, this will help me figure out what is happening. Hmmmm.
I scanned in millions of colors, billions of colors, various adaptive light settings, color correction on, color correction off, etc. etc. The results were just as bad as what I am getting from the camera(?). I put this in BOLD because now I'm not so sure that is an issue with the camera. Read on if you so desire
Then another idea popped into my head. My mother, who is an artist/architect as it happens, had sent me as a present a while back a box of 100 PANTONE Postcards (I don't snail mail anymore and I wonder if this was a hint, they are all pre-addressed). Most of the postcard is the color and a name of the color and its appropriate number/code?
I scanned five color cards, chosen to represent as much as possible the colors in the painting. I scanned them to my monitor. I am viewing as .tif which is the setting I used to scan them. They are off slightly? from their actual colors
I wondered if the issue is just with my monitor, so I then PRINTED the image file out on the Pixma using the proper media choice for Canon Pro Platinum paper so that the correct ICC profile would be utilized.
The colors are still off. Especially the GREEN, Pantone 3278, which on the post card is a pretty, cheerful, lively green. On the monitor and in the print it appears as a yucky, duller, muddier, darker green. (I just don't know how to describe color, sorry.)
The BLUES aren't so great either. The Pantone colors listed on the cards for the blues are Pantone 18-4525 Caribbean Sea, Pantone 291,Pantone 18-4530 Celestial, and Pantone 18-4330 Swedish Blue.
This whole situation indicates to me that ALL the other colors in all my other work that I THOUGHT were as accurate as they should be, are not.
WHERE DOES THIS LEAVE ME AT THIS POINT?
1) Should I have posted this in another forum? Printers and Monitors I suppose. But just thought this would be a continuation of the thread I started.
2) Should I try to find the appropriate HEX code conversions for the colors and use them to tweak the color settings menu that I saw somewhere and was too afraid to use?
3) NOT in anyway spend any more time on this at all until I purchase the other devices and software?
4) Give up entirely because this is as good at is going to get?
5) Still wondering about the accuracy of my camera in capturing the colors the way they are in life?
Sigh...what do you all have to say...be gentle
Regards,
P.
PS. I hope it is okay to post this in the other couple of forums I am a member of because they have been helpful too

Monitor the current request

Hello Weblogic Gurus
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Hi,
This may be a IDOC/Transact RFC error .
tRFC Error - status running Yellow for long time (Transact RFC will be enabled in Status tab in RSMO).
Step 1: Goto Details, Status get the IDoc number,and go to BD87 in R/3,place the cursor in the RED IDoc entroes in tRFC
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Step 2: In the next screen click on Display tRFC calls (will take you to SM58 particular TRFC call)
place the cursor on the particular Transaction ID and go to EDIT in the menu bar --> press 'Execute LUW'
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This Data Package TID is Transaction ID in SM58.
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In the Status Text column you can see two status
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Don't disturb, if the status is second one Transaction Executing. If the status is first one (Transation Recorded) manually
execute the "Execute LUWs"
OR
Directly go to SM58 > Give * / user name or background (Aleremote) user name and execute. It will show TRFCs to be executed
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thanks,
JituK

Strange monitor lines [advice request]

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