What internet security do you recommend for apple products

What Internet security do you recommend for apple products

None. The best security is to backup your data frequently, and using WPA2 encryption on wireless routers. Otherwise basic good practices include:
1. Do not download sites that suggest installing cleanup software.
2. Do not do things that might slow your Mac down:
https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-6921
3. Do not install updates except directly from reputable vendors websites, and the Apple Mac Store.
4. Do not follow instructions of popup windows or banner ads.
5. Do not use peer2peer or torrent software.
6. Do not open .scpt, .sct, .app attachments.
7. If you use Windows on your Mac, the same security rules for Windows on a non-Apple machine apply as an Apple machine.

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HT4061 as of lately my iCloud mail box as been full of junk mail ....... in iCloud preferences you can only send 99 different address directly to trash? what Virus & Malware do you recommend for my iMac, iPad and iPhone ............ thank you !!!!

as of lately my iCloud mail box as been full of junk mail ....... in iCloud preferences you can only send 99 different address directly to trash? what Virus & Malware do you recommend for my iMac, iPad and iPhone ............ thank you !!!!

as of lately my iCloud mail box as been full of junk mail ....... in iCloud preferences you can only send 99 different address directly to trash? what Virus & Malware do you recommend for my iMac, iPad and iPhone ............ thank you !!!!

What family fonts do you recommend for an AS3 iphone app

What family fonts do you recommend for an AS3 iphone app?
The fonts must be clear and sharp.

Here's a lengthy list.

What internet security application is recommended

I have a Mac Book Pro and want to know if there is a recommended internet security software that I should install to protect my computer?

Hi All... Long time Apple user and have enjoyed many many years without a thought about malware, virus' and trojans.
Here is the unfortunate reality... Life was fine and then one day my MacBook Pro started to labor when opening apps/managing multiple documents/etc.. the spinning wheel. When moving to Force Quit - Each time it would indicate that one or more of my apps were 'unresponsive'.
Next... noticed two things; At the same time that a mac app was unresponsive - the fan in my macbook was kicked into overdrive... and the casing above the keyboards had become super hot. R
esearched the issue that pointed me to the possibility of malware... Chose then what was best option McAfee to scan my computer.... and yes you guessed it - two cases of malware and a trojan. McAfee put them in 'quarantine' and I restarted my laptop... Like magic - no unresponsive apps - the fans were calm and the case was no longer excessively hot.
This was great for about a month and then it happened again... ran the scan (with McAfee and Sophos) and found a new case of malware that was found in my email database and dated as received that day - once the virus was quarantined - my macbook was happy again. Now I run realtime virus scanner - seems like about 3-5 weeks and something will show up and - 99.9% time imbedded within an email - I sue McAfee to remove whatever it is and enjoy my computer running as it should..... fast, cool and quiet.

What computer do you recommend for music production, photo and video editing?

I'm looking to buy a computer mainly for music production with native instruments and photo and video editing with adobe elements. I'd like a crisp image, good sound and also runs as smooth as possible. I am planning on using external hard drives for most of my storage so space isn't an issue for me. I don't mind buying a refurbished computer. I am looking to spend around $3000 to $3500 on the computer itself. What computer do you recommend?

Please do not double post; it gets too confusing for us - the volunteers - if there is more than one.
the new iMac - just introduced - sounds like it'd be the right thing; I'd upgrade to an SSD and the fastest processor offered. You can also add RAM, but I'd do that later as it'll be less expensive and it's very easy to do yourself.
Good luck.

What flash drive do you recommend for iPhoto?

I need a nice and strong flash drive to save thousands of pictures from iphoto, which I can view them everywhere and even print them out. What brand do you recommend and how many GB?

Any flash drive will do. They're all the same. They don't come in "strong". How many GB depends on how many photos and what size they are.

Need advice on what antivirus/security measures are recommended for Macs

Between us my husband and I have a MacBook Pro and a MacBook Air.
I'm looking for guidance on what might or might not be useful, beyond what is standard on a Mac, to protect against viruses and improve security on our system.
Thanks in advance!

Linc Davis wrote:
(1) Don't install any commercial anti-virus software. It's all useless garbage.
Not true, at least if you email or send files to Windows users. It won't do you much good if your Mac isn't compromised but theirs is by something you pass along to them. Any info about you on their computers is put at risk of exploitation. We live in a connected world, & like it or not we are all in this together.
(2) Use your administrator account (the first one you created) only for administrative tasks such as installing software.
This offers reasonable protection but some malware is potentially capable of exploiting unpatched vulnerabilities that allow privileges to be escalated to admin or even root level without a user's knowledge. And even if an exploit is confined to the domain of a regular user account it can still do damage or compromise information.
NEVER enter your administrator password when prompted to do so by an application UNLESS it's a built-in application, such as the Installer.
That would preclude the use of a great deal of commercial software that doesn't use Apple's Installer.app, including most Adobe products.
NEVER install any third-party software except by drag-and-drop into your Applications folder, or by download from the App Store.
Same as above: not everything users want or need uses Apple's installer or can be installed by a simple drag & drop. And obviously, if the system is already infected all bets are off: you can no longer trust Installer.app to be what it says it is.
NEVER run any program you receive as an unsolicited email attachment, even if you know and trust the apparent sender.
This does not apply only to attachments containing executable code, or even just to email. Apple has provided security updates to patch vulnerabilities that can be exploited just by clicking on links to maliciously formed web pages. This kind of attack is becoming more popular, in part because browsers send info about the client computer to the server that can be used to tailor the attack to the specific vulnerabilities of the platform, & in part because browsers increasingly rely on executing scripts & other instructions provided by web pages to render them.

What Mac specs would you recommend for a CS major (GHz, Flash Memory, etc)?

So, I'm starting college in the fall as a computer science major. I have decided to choose a Macbook Pro with Retina Display as my weapon of choice. The only remaining questions I have before I order pertain specifically to GHz and Flash Memory. I saw that for about $250, you could upgrade your processor from 2.7 GHz to 2.8 GHz, and for $400 extra you could upgrade your flash memory. To be honest, and this is an embarrassing confession for a CS student to make, but I really have no clue what either of those things do to the computer, and what impact they have. Before I ask you what you'd recommend, let me give a little more information.
Because I'm a CS major, the kind of work I would most likely be using the computer for involves creating iPhone apps, building websites, and building desktop apps using Cocoa or Qt. Now, I'm not sure how big these project files usually are on Macs, but I have done some programming before on Windows and know that they do have the ability to get rather large. My previous programming environments have included a Windows 7 Lenovo desktop PC with 1 TB of internal memory, and a Dell laptop running Linux Ubuntu with 2GB of internal memory and a 2.26 Intel Core Duo processor (runs much slower..).
So, I guess my ultimate question is, is the extra $250 or $400 really worth it? Would I be able to get by without spending all the extra cash?
Oh, and as for screen resolution, I was thinking 15 inch, due to the fact that this will most likely be my primary computer at college. Is that a good call as well?

TJNickerson wrote:
So, I guess my ultimate question is, is the extra $250 or $400 really worth it? Would I be able to get by without spending all the extra cash?
The CPU upgrade is only worth it for applications where the CPU is specifically the bottleneck. These days, not many are. The amount of RAM, the GPU, and the speed of storage often play into overall application speed.
You might want to check with upperclassmen in your program, though, because it is possible that some programming environments might benefit from it when compiling or something.
But for most people, $250 for another 0.1 GHz is a bad deal. On the 15-inch it is paying 9% more to boost CPU by just 4%.
If the storage starts at 512MB, that is a lot of space for most people. The $400 is for SSD storage which is expensive (compared to traditional spinning hard disks) so you'd better need it. The two questions to ask yourself are, do you need to carry everything around all the time, or can you keep some on an external drive? Because $400 would buy you a 4TB external drive with money left over. The second question is does that storage need to be SSD fast? If yes, then maybe the upgrade is good. If no, then you'd paying a lot more for much faster storage than you need.
TJNickerson wrote:
Oh, and as for screen resolution, I was thinking 15 inch, due to the fact that this will most likely be my primary computer at college. Is that a good call as well?
15 inch is a screen size, not a screen resolution. One way to think about it is, do you expect to be using one screen-filling window at a time, or seeing lots of app windows at a time? The 13-inch is a better size for single window work, but the 15-inch is better for spreading out your workspace with multiple windows and panels.

What computer(s) do you recommend for photoshop painting?

Hi,
I have a 4-year Packard Bell laptop computer that running on its last legs. So it's time for me to buy a new computer. I plan on mainly using it for digital painting with photoshop cs6. Therefore a computer that's very compatible with the newest versions of photoshop and graphic tablets like intous 5 is critically important. I am, however, terribly indecisive when it comes to choosing which one as there are so many and I'm not exactly tech savvy. I do have a short list of preferences though, that should help narrow down the dicision-making a bit:
- desktop computer
- large adjustable monitor
- compatible with photoshop cs6 + premium graphic tablets
- no Apple computer
- under $1500
It´s been suggested that I "build" my own computer, however this I do not want to do.
Thanks!

I believe JJ got a refurbished Dell Precision T5600 6 core workstation there not long ago and it sounds like he likes it very much. It's no surprise -they're great systems.
Mine is a refurbished Precision T5500 dual processor system (12 cores in all) that I got a year ago from an eBay reseller, and because I spent a little more than JJ and got dual high-end processors my CPU performance even today ranks 11th highest on the Passmark CPU Mark list of all-time fastest multiple CPU systems.
The point is that these systems are amazing performers, being outpaced only by systems that cost thousands more. They're not really cheap, but the price is actually reasonable since they're used/refurbished. And they're about as future proof as any system you'll find.
Both JJ and I actually got 3 year Dell warranties with our systems (correct me if I'm wrong, JJ).
SquirrelMonkey88, your task is now to learn and understand everything about computer systems, so that you can pick a system that fits you well. You're doing the right thing, asking experts.
Generally speaking, you might look for a platform that has the right processor(s), and maybe all the RAM you'll need, but with the cheapest possible video card. Then you can replace the video card with one that will run Photoshop and the Creative Suite well, and maybe add disk drives.
Here are just some quick examples, available right now:
1. Precision T5600 with 6 core Xeon E5-2620, 16 GB RAM, and 500GB hard drive - $1399.98. Add a 256 GB OCZ Vector SSD for $270 more, and an ATI Radeon HD 7750 for another $105. You can add a second processor, more RAM, more disk drives or SSDs in the future to expand the system.
2. Precision T5500 with 2 x 6 core Xeon E5645, 24 GB ECC RAM, and 1TB hard drive - $1899.99. Add an ATI Radeon HD 7850 for another $200. Add more disk drives/SSDs in the future.
You could go directly to Dell's refurbished sales site as well and possibly find similar deals.
-Noel

Just got a MacBook, what wireless router do you recommend for me to buy

besides the Apple Airport Extreme Base Station. Thanks!

I use and very highly recommend Netgear routers. I use their WGR614 in my mixed Mac/PC/Xbox/Wii network setup and it performs like a charm. It was easy to configure through their broswer configuration setup and does exactly what it is supposed to do - and it cost me all of $40 at Best Buy.

What audio card do you recommend for a CS4 Win 7x64 system?

The on board Microsoft High Deffinition Audio is very limited and i can't adjust record levels. Also the output levels are very low that I feed to my Mackie board with the output level adjusted to max. I am using the HDVsplit to capture my video which is great, but the audio level is so low I have to increase each clip by 15 to 20 db (pain to have to do this on every clip). There are no record levels to adjust with HDVsplit, so this may be where the problem lies. If this is the case, got any suggestions?
I know the recorded levels are fine on the HDV tape. I have another system that is Win 7x64 with CS4, with a Matrox RTX2 card and a SB Audiogy card and I have no issues with audio record or playback levels. So, I am guessing that a new, good audio card is what I need. Suggestions?
OS Name Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
Version 6.1.7600 Build 7600
Other OS Description Not Available
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Name SUPEREDIT
System Manufacturer Supermicro
System Model X8SAX
System Type x64-based PC
Processor Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU X5650 @ 2.67GHz, 2668 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s)
BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. 1.1a, 4/29/2010
SMBIOS Version 2.6
Windows Directory C:\Windows
System Directory C:\Windows\system32
Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1
Locale United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "6.1.7600.16385"
User Name SuperEdit\Michel
Time Zone Pacific Daylight Time
Installed Physical Memory (RAM) 24.0 GB
Total Physical Memory 24.0 GB
Available Physical Memory 21.9 GB
Total Virtual Memory 48.0 GB
Available Virtual Memory 45.8 GB
Page File Space 24.0 GB
Page File C:\pagefile.sys

it depends
if you are just doing on oncam then the onboard should work or get a Zonar/Sound Blaster
if actually recording audio or doing voice overs you want a pro level sound card
M-Audio Fast track Pro
Motu
RME
Etc
Scott
ADK

What Bluetooth mouse would you recommend for machines running Snow Leopard

I'm looking for one and I'd like to hear suggestions from people.

As far as ergonomics are concerned, it's pretty subjective. It depends on the size of your hand and the position your prefer to hold the mouse in use.
For me, the Magic Mouse is not ergonomically weak at all. I find it very comfortable, just the right weight for pushing around a mouse mat, and the touch surface / buttons work very well.
Best thing to do is visit an Apple Store and try one out for as long as possible, and make up your own mind.
Almost 30% of Mac users in the MacWorld poll below use a Magic Mouse, so it's found a lot of users in a small amount of time.
http://www.macworld.co.uk/polls/index.cfm?action=showresults&pid=3210293

What audio interface would you recommend for Garageband?

I'm a new Garageband user, and I would love to have some help in choosing an audio interface for.
Is there an interface that is widely considered the "garageband interface"? Are there interfaces for Garageband that have phantom power?
I'm looking for something that is reasonable in price. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot!

I'm another "I'd stay away from Behringer" person!
For an inexpensive Garagebandy interface, I'd check out M-Audio and PreSonus.
You can peruse (/be overwhelmed by) a very complete selection at sweetwater:
http://www.sweetwater.com/shop/computer-audio/audio_interfaces/
Generally, firewire works better but USB is cheaper.

What virus protection do you recommend?

What virus protection do you recommend for MacBook Pro?

I simply recommend practicing safe browsing habits, such as not opening files or attachments from unverified sources and never provide your user name and password unless you're certain of what you're doing.
Point in case: There is a malicious application currently floating around which goes by various different names, such as Mac Defender and Mac Security. When this piece of malware is downloaded and run on your computer, it will ask you to install it and you will be asked to provide your user name and password for it to gain access to your computer. By not providing this information, the malware is unable to cause any harm your computer.

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

I just purchased MBP and it is my first Apple computer. How concerned should I be about virus software and what do you recommend for security software?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Gatekeeper has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could find some other way to evade Apple's controls.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article.
4. Beyond XProtect and Gatekeeper, there’s no benefit, in most cases, from any other automated protection against malware. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. All known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source. How do you know whether a source is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
5. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was never a good idea, and Java's developers have had a lot of trouble implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style "virus" affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful. Fortunately, Java on the Web is mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers. In Safari, this is done by unchecking the box marked Enable Java in the Security tab of the preferences dialog.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a specific task, enable Java only when needed for the task and disable it immediately when done. Close all other browser windows and tabs, and don't visit any other sites while Java is active. Never enable Java on a public web page that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, password-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be practically as safe from malware as you can be.
6. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
7. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
8. The greatest harm done by anti-virus software, in my opinion, is in its effect on human behavior. It does little or nothing to protect people from emerging threats, but they get a false sense of security from it, and then they may behave in ways that expose them to higher risk. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.

What internet security do you recommend for apple products

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