What RAM should i get for my iMac?

I'm well overdue new RAM in my iMac as i run Pro tools and Logic with 1GB of RAM and its now come to the point i can hardley do anything with out ''system overload''! however i'm not sure what one i need? does it matter which make it is ? This is my specs below thanks for any help.
Memory Slots:
ECC:    Disabled
BANK 0/DIMM0:
Size:    1 GB
Type:    DDR2 SDRAM
Speed:    800 MHz
Status:    OK
Manufacturer:    0xAD00000000000000
Part Number:    0x48594D503131325336344352362D53362020
Serial Number:    0x00003017
BANK 1/DIMM1:
Size:    Empty
Type:    Empty
Speed:    Empty
Status:    Empty
Manufacturer:    Empty
Part Number:    Empty
Serial Number:    Empty
Mac OS X version 10.5.8
Processor 2.4GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory 1GB 800 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
Startup Disk Macintosh HD
Cheers!

The important thing to do is make sure you get ram from a reliable, Mac-friendly source as Macs are very sensitive to their ram. Two good sources are Crucial and OWC, http://www.macsales.com both will tell you just what ram you machine will take and guarantee compatibility and give a lifetime warranty. And they have on-line videos on how to install.

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What ram should i get for a neo-fis2r mobo

im building a new system and i was wondering what is the best ram for gaming in this mobo.
Thanks,
Infern09

don't go with cl2 becouse this mobo hates it and instability will never end
and don't go with HYPERX pc 3500 its like & it really sucks
go with CL2.5 it is the best CL with this board
if you overclock they will tell you go with higher pc like pc3500 , pc3700
thats a big wrong, any thing higher than pc 3200 sucks
pc 3200 o'c like hell
and forget about HIGH & TIGHT timming it really doesn't matter just go with larger
capacity
thats what i learned with this board after spending alot of $$$$ on RAMS
GOOD LUCK any way

How much RAM should I install for new iMAC ?

Hi,
How much RAM should I install for new iMAC* running Logic Studio? It comes with 4 GB - is that enough? (can you run in 64 bit mode..)
*(The 21.5" 3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo)
Also, I was planning to get the stock 1 TB Hard Drive & save projects to an external drive.
Does that sound reasonable?
Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
Wm Heart

Unless you plan on running huge projects with enormous sampled instruments, 4 GB will do (very) fine. And your disk plan is sound. Choose an external Firewire drive, rather than USB. FW is easier on the CPU and can handle more tracks than USB.
What you should get, instead of more memory, is a (24 bit) external audio interface, if you want to do serious recording and playback.
What type of audio interface you'ld need, depends on what you want to do with it and of course your budget. From decent to brilliant costs from roughly 100 to several 1,000's of europounddollars. Avoid the 16 bit ones, they're worse than the inbuilt audio chip of your iMac. You can recognize 16 bit Audio Interfaces (in webshops) by their prize (often under 100€£$) and the lack of mention of their bitrate.
HTH
Regards, Erik.

What ram do i get for my MacBook 3,1?

what ram do i get for my MacBook 3,1?

Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
You have a Late 2007 MacBook, that uses 667 MHz DDR2 RAM. Officially, it supports 4 GB of memory, but you can install 6 GB of memory. See > http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1651#link3
If you want more memory, you can buy the memory in OWC or Crucial (Crucial is cheaper and offers the same compatibility warranty as OWC) > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/MacBook/DDR2/

What ssd should i get for my lenovo t61 please advise

what ssd should i get for my lenovo t61 please advise i like the samsungs , will sata II work on it ?

Skip the Samsung!
The SSD Anthology: Understanding SSDs and New Drives from OCZ
http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3531
The SSD Update: Vertex Gets Faster, New Indilinx Drives and Intel/MacBook Problems Resolved
http://www.anandtech.com/storage/showdoc.aspx?i=3535
I would go with Intel X25-M 80GB SATA MLC SSD $393.00
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167005
Drives like the Samsung don't make a good main drive replacment yuo will see noticable pauses in applicatipon web browsing is one place where the pause is very noticable but people blame internet transfer instead of their hdd pausing while doing a file update.

What upgrades should I get for my MacBook pro for video editing?, What upgrades should I get for my MacBook pro for video editing?

Hi,
i am a student and I will use my MacBook pro to edit my movies, I will go to a film school and I think the preview of my previous works has to be professionally done. But I don't know what upgrades should I get to make the editing smooth, and have enough storage.

as an hobbyist on a shoestring budget, but with the head in the sky, based on my own experience:
8GB Ram is ok, 16GB is nice
most important, aside 'skills': …
<voice of Steve Balmer> ext HDD, ext HDD, ext HDD, ext HDD!!!
I'm handling here 4k material on a MacMini, which doesn't even have a dedicated GPU. In Multicam.
Distribute your materials on several hard drives, make a plan first, before editing, what & where, you get instantly messy and lost without a plan.
What mentioned before: back ups! I'm not shy using a 99€ Raid0 (=two 2.5" drives + Disk Utility's feature, to create 'software raids' ) - Raid0 are NoGo for pros, 'cause it doubles the chance to 'crash' - no prob for me, having my backups - inconvenient to reload everything - but I'm no News Room
For professional 'look' care for the other stuff :
tripod with 'fluid head', lights, more lights, ND filters set, ext. microphone(s) at last a shotgun and a lav, ext audio recorder (I'm abusing my ol' iPhone4 and a tiny box called iRig, which offer XLR connector), did I mention lights? , a good bag and a waterproof, lockable aluminium box, soft boxes for light, maybe a shoulder rig (starting at 80€), 200sq ft of some green cloth for green screening (if your school doesn't offer a 'studio') FCPX does marvel with even really bad lighted green screens, those handy foldable 'brighteners'/reflectors, to bounce light ('Rembrandt lightning') … finally tons of odds and ends, starting with gaffer tape, ending with SDcards ...
And DO things, try things, play with your stuff, make experiments just for the trash bin!
Enjoy your film school (I'm envy… )

What display should I get for my macbook pro?

Hey Guys. I think this is in the correct section.
So I have a Macbook Pro (specs at the bottom) and I am looking to add an external monitor to use as a second monitor and at other times a screen for my playstation. I have never had a monitor before so not sure how big? What resolution? What ppi? HD, UHD, 4K? Someone said something about refresh rate. I have no idea what that is. None of this stuff I know.
Obviously I want the best screen I can have and I would connect my Macbook to it by HDMI using a Thunderbolt to HDMI converter and connect my ps3 to it by HDMI.
What is the highest resolution a HDMI/Thunderbolt can handle?
What screen should I get?
Also I connected it up to my TV once and if I put my mouse at the bottom of the screen and then moved it onto my macbook screen it disapeared and didn't appear again until I moved it up and I don't want this problem
How can i solve this?
All help is very much appreciated.
Thanks. Miles.
Specs:
Macbook Pro - 13 inch - Mid 2012
13.3 inch (1280 x 800)
OSX Yosemite - Version 10.10.1
Intel HD Graphics 4000 1024MB
[email protected]

The apple thunderbolt display is £900 which to me seems an extremely large amount of money to spend on a display ?

I am purchasing a imac what processor should i get for photography

I am going to use iMac with adobe suite, I don't know a lot about computers but want it to be fast and I have a tendancy to leave a lot of windows open. Any advice?

There is a lot of truth in 'ds stores' response that a MacPro would probably be the best option. There are also a couple of things which may be misleading.
An iMac will last as long as a MacPro. You can make a MacPro last longer by continually swapping out bits and upgrading but I have never heard of people swapping out at motherboard/processor level. So you can add RAM and hard drives etc. You can do this (to a much lesser extent) with an iMac.
Not sure why you would have to re-buy all of Adobes products either? I assume that whether you buy an iMac or a MacPro you will keep the software up to date so even if Adobe does rescind it's support for an OS you would have to upgrade in both scenarios.
With Thunderbolt tecnology being what it is I would say an iMac is better than a MacPro. All of your storage (and scratch discs) can be kept on a NAS (external Network Attached Storage) - and can be accessed by any iMac on your network. This means that you or any member of your future workforce can access and work on any file. Also, if you do change or add machines it can hook straight into your network seamlessly. (I know the new MacPros also have Thunderbolt - but it would be MUCH more expensive to achieve the same solution)
It is quite correct that you can increase display 'real estate' by adding displays, and that matte displays are far better for photographic work. Just bear in mind that you can add displays (not as many - but how many can do you actually need/ afford) to the iMac too. It also appears, if the rumors are to be believed, that the forthcoming 2012 iMac may well have a matte display option.
Dont get me wrong, I have a Mid 2010 MacPro and it's superb for photography. It's what I use it for. I have a dual 21" cinema display (and dont use photoshop or ligtroom). I find that Aperture is a better, more intuitive, workflow solution which will likely be supported on the Mac for much longer than any single Adobe product.
The bottom line is as follows;
1. How much money do you have.
2. How much physical room do you have'
3. What are your processing requirements (i.e will there be lots of montaging, cut outs, layers, masks and renders?). If so I would definitely go for Photoshop on the fastest MacPro you can afford. If you are doing studio photography where the most you are likely to do is 'adjustments' then an iMac will easily do the job and save you a wad of cash.
4. What sort of equipment are you using. Are you using a 50 megapixel Hasselblad or a Leaf back? These produce monstrous files which need immense processing. Are you using a good quality 18 or 20 megapixel DSLR? If it is the latter then an i7 iMac will be just fine.
I have recently been considering this issue myself and - I am moving to the new iMac when it is released. Hope this has not confused you too much.

What kind of virus protection should I get for my iMac?

I tried downloading AVG, which I use for my PC laptop, but it didn't work.

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav— nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
ClamXav is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
ClamXav may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use ClamXav unless a network administrator requires you to run an anti-virus application.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What Mac should I get for basic Photoshop usage?

I'm hoping to tap into the vast resources/opinions here.
I'm planning to get a Mac for my office. It will be use primarily for basic Photoshop usage. Maybe making some movies from iPhoto. The other usage would be normal ones like web surfing.
Please suggest a desktop Mac first, and a laptop Mac 2nd.
Which Mac model would be most cost-effective and doesn't need upgrading every year?
Thanks a lot!
Mavis

Mavis, the answer to your question really depends on what you mean by 'basic' Photoshop use.
Bearing in mind that Photoshop has been used by professionals in graphics and design houses for many years, typically working on hardware that is substantially less powerfull than a Mac mini, there is no reason to beleieve that even the entry-level Mac can't sucessfully be used for this kind of work, and those who suggest otherwise simply haven't tried it. However, there are some things that you need to keep in mind when using this software: the first is that Photoshop runs better the more memory you have, the second is that Photoshop files can require large amounts of storage, and the third is that the most recent version tends to place heavy demand on the processor - meaning that the faster the processor the better it runs.
Thus, any Mac you buy for Photoshop use should ideally be equipped with 1Gb RAM rather than any less. You should also consider getting either the largest internal hard drive you can, or an external firewire drive for extra file storage.
A Mac mini with 1.42GHz processor and a 1Gb RAM upgrade would certainly be sufficient, even for fairly demanding Photoshop work. The internal 80Gb drive for that model would give you a reasonable amount of space for files, though you would be wise to add a larger external drive too if the work you are doing is at all crucial. The same system would also be capable of your iPhoto work too. If your use is more casual, then the 1.25GHz mini would be enough, but again you'd need the 1Gb RAM upgrade.
If your intended use is more at the commercial end of Photoshop use, then the chances are that even though a mini would be sufficient, you'd be better with an iMac or G5 tower, simply because for pro-level work, these systems are faster and permit smoother and more productive workflow.
It also has to be said that no Mac will need upgrading each year, unless your level of use or your needs of that system change dramatically. A system you buy today will remain just as functional into the future. In other words, the best way to minimize the risk of having to upgrade in the forseable future is to work out exactly what you want the system for and buy a system that meets your present (and projected future) needs.

What monitor should I get for my Macbook Pro?

I have a 2012 Macbook Pro
I want to get an external monitor
What spec monitor should I get?
The only thing I'm worried about is getting the correct connection
I'm assuming I want a monitor that will take DVI connection
ALSO: would I need to buy a DVI connector - would the monitor come with this?
Aside... are there any specific (non Apple) monitors that are widely used by everyone?
I read another thread and there where a few names pop up like a Dell model
Thanks
Omar

thanks for the reply
i was looking at this model: http://benq.co.uk/product/monitor/gl2450hm
i choose this one because it had a response time of 2ms
other monitors have a response time of 5ms
i assumed this would mean fast action graphics would display better?
any thoughts?
(+ this is £120 on amazon - others are roughly £140 starting price)
ALSO... does it matter what i connect to - DVI or HDMI?
is one better than the other?
i already have a hdmi connector... so am assuming i will be ok with this and not bother with dvi?
thanks

What cover should I get for new iPhone 4?

I'm getting my aunt an 8GB iphone 4 as a gift and am trying to figure out what version of screen/body protectors should I get? Will the new iPhone 4 for Verizon be the same as the Verizon 16 & 32 GB iPhone 4's? Please help.

I have the iphone 4 incase slip case. I was against cases, but since I dock my iphone to charge it, this worked really well. It's also very descrete looking.
I've also heard otterbox makes some really nice high end cases. They are pricey and bulky but do the job.
There is also the 12south book book case that acts as a car holder and case and looks like a leather book. This looked appealing since I do read with my iphone a lot but it was big and seemed more for a purse or counter then my pocket. I could see getting it for an ipod touch.

What monitor should I get for my t500?

I am having problems finding any display port monitors. Am I just missing them, or do I just need to get an adapter and buy a DVI or HDMI monitor?
I am thinking a 20-22 inch with WSXGA+ or WUXGA with a price range of $200-$300
Thanks!
Thinkpad T500 - Intel Core2 P8400 (2.26GHz), 4 gigs of ram, 160GB/7200rpm hard drive, ATI 3650 GPU, WSXGA+ panel

The Dell 24 inch 2408WFP have them, there are not many in the 20 -22 inch range that has the displayport, so if you are looking for those monitors then you should just get an display port to HDMI or DVI converter, preferrably you should get an HDMI converter, then an HDMI to DVI cable, then down the line, if you ever want to use HDMI monitor, all you have to do is to get an HDMI cable.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

What devices should I get for development?

I am a developer and want to start making apps for the new screen resolutions as well as continue android development. It is also time for me to get a new phone. So should I get an android phone like the S3 and get an iPod touch, or just get an iPhone 5 and continue to use my old android phone for development?
I know this is a really vague question, so I'm asking what the more experienced developers would do.

One of my big questions is do you guys actually keep the same phone for two years
I have no choice. I'm locked into a contract. Are you saying that you buy multiple phones in the $600 range in two years just to get them without a contract? Anyway, if you decide Android, I would not get an S3. Maybe an HTC or Droid. But I would go with iPhone 5.

What macbook should i get for university (Computer Science major)?

I need a macbook for homework, school, programing, and possibally running windows 7 or 8 using bootcamp. I will not be gaming on this machine at all. I was stuck between the 13' macbook air with 8gb ram, 512gb storage, and i7 or i5 for $1849. Or the macbook pro 13'' i5, 8gb ram, and 512gb storage for the same price. I'm looking for decent battery life and good performance overall. keep in mind that i won't replace this laptop for 3-4 years. And is it really a big difference between the i5 and the i7 in the air and should i get 256gb or 512gb in the air if that is the outcome.

I just happened to google "macbook for computer science majors" and this is the first thread I found. Weird Since All the students are at Univ of Waterloo. I know different school, but same city. http://www.studentawards.com/forum.aspx?g=posts&t=30988

What RAM should i get for my iMac?

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