What's new on 2.4 MacBook Pro?
The 2.4 MacBook Pro is listed as new in the Apple online store. I do not notice any difference between whats listed and what I received a few weeks ago other than possibly hard drive options.
In the description page of the Macbook Pro online is listed "And the keys are curved to perfectly fit fingers." Mine appear flat. Was there a keyboard change or is the curve so subtle I don't notice it?
No changes to the 2.4GHz model have been announced. Its keys are curved to perfectly fit fingers that are almost perfectly flat. They do have an infinitesimal amount of curvature, so the statement isn't absolutely untrue — it's just untrue for all practical purposes.
Similar Messages
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I downloaded the new iphoto to my macbook pro. Now when I open it, there is a message telling me that "your photo library is damaged or unreadable and cannot be opened. Please restore from a backup." What do I do I had 16,000 pictures.....PLEASE HELP!!!!!
Try download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In Library Manager it's the FIle -> Rebuild command)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one. -
What to buy? Macbook pro 13' retina 2,6 GHz (new 2013) i5 vs Macbook pro 13' 2,9 GHz i7?
What to buy?
Macbook pro 13' retina 2,6 GHz (new 2013) i5 vs Macbook pro 13' 2,9 GHz i7..?
I will use it for Photoshop, in design etc.
Is the old Macbook pro still better than the new retina, ore.The MacBook pro 2.9 is also now a lot cheaper than the retina 2.6 and looks a lot faster and a better buy 2 me..?
I am absolutely not pro so i cant really know if i am right ore wrong..?
Which has the best performance and which has the slowest hard drive..?
I like to have a fast and small comp. which can be used for adobe photo, film edd. etc. without any problems. I will use an extern storage. And i have an extern screen.
I am so afraid that if i buy retina ore the other way around, that i have done a mistake..?
want to be absolutely sure..
13-inch: 2.9GHz (DKK11,699.00)
2.9GHz dual-core Intel Core i7
Turbo Boost up to 3.6GHz
8GB 1600MHz memory
750GB 5400-rpm hard drive1
Intel HD Graphics 4000
13-inch: 2.6GHz (DKK13,199.00)
with Retina display
2.6GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Turbo Boost up to 3.2GHz
8GB 1600MHz memory
256GB flash storage1
Intel HD Graphics 4000 -
I own a new iPad and a MacBook Pro. An Apple store assistant changed my Apple ID on my iPad, and the new ID showed up in the iCloud setting on the iPad. However on my Mac laptop the iCloud still shows my old ID, so there is no synching of documents going on between the iPad and the laptop. What do I do?
On the mac's system preferences: click the iCloud icon, then "sign out" button. After, you can enter the new ID.
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Can I change a new battery for my MacBook Pro 15' Retina? How?
Can I change a new battery for my MacBook Pro 15' Retina? How?
Hi!
About a month ago, my MBPr 15", mid 2012 (Model Identifier10,1) showed, at first, Battery Service warning and on the next day X over the battery icon with Battery Not Available message in the status. MBP would run only and while the charger was plugged in, plug led would be always green, when connected. Battery test third party sw would not detect the battery, any longer.
Replacing upper case with battery/keyboard/trackpad, as per Apple, in my country was too expensive, over 1000 USD, did't make any sense to me, so I've chosen DIY option (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLhHSIej9fs) with all necessary precautions like tools, ESD protection grounded pad in place and ordered "new" replacement battery from Hong Kong on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400699766989?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STR K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT).
Yesterday I came in new packing/sealed, I installed it, plugged the power cable on, plug led would turn green and then orange, I thought it's ok, but once system booted, I saw again X over battery icon and "Battery Not Available". I checked all the hints on internet, tried several times SMC and EPRON resets, no success. I filed complaint to Ebay supplier, he replied that battery undergone test prior the shipment, but ready for return and refund.
So, I can make another try and buy the battery from Ebay but what if the problem is with my logic board? From one hand charger plug led lights orange when connected to MBP, on another hand System doesn't see the battery at all: No battery in the System info/Hardware/Power. it works absolutely fine when plugged-in to charger. I ran extended AHT (over pressed "D" key while powering on) twice with No Problem in return. So, my question is does it ultimately mean that Logic Board and power circuits are all fine and the whole thing is about "new bad" battery? I there any way to entirely test Logic board and narrow down problem origin?
Thank you for attention in advance,
Nurlan -
I installed my new iMac with my Macbook Pro 2008 back up. I created a iMac network with Airport extreme, but now my Macbook Pro cannot get internet. any ideas on why or what to do about it.
Hello 1BillyMac,
It seems you have a network conflict that isn't allowing your MacBook Pro to connect to the internet. This may be caused by both computers sharing identical network settings. You may want to consider creating a new network location on your MacBook Pro to assign new network settings. The following article will instruct you on how to do that:
OS X Yosemite: Add a network location
A network location is a group of network settings
A network location is a group of network settings for your various network services (Ethernet or Wi-Fi for example).
If you often change network settings, you may find switching between locations quicker and easier than repeatedly modifying individual groups of settings.
For example, you might want to make a location for “home,” where you connect to the Internet with a telephone modem, and a location for “office,” where you connect to your company network and the Internet using Ethernet or AirPort.
Choose Apple menu > System Preferences, then click Network.
Click the Location pop-up menu, choose Edit Locations, then click Add .
Enter a name for the location, then click Done.
Enter settings for each network connection service you want to use in that location.
After you create your locations, you can switch all of your network settings by clicking the Location pop-up menu and choosing a different location.
Thank you for contributing to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Bobby_D -
USB Superdrive and my new 15" Retina display MacBook Pro
This probably sounds stupid, but I recently purchased a new 15" retina display Macbook Pro. A week after I brought it home, I went to put in a DVD, and discovered it didn't have a built in CD/DVD drive. (DUH - first one I ever bought that didn't have one - so much for old guy assumptions.) So, I went out and spent more money on an Apple USB Superdrive, which the Apple store employee cheerfully told me was simply plug and play into the USB port. I plugged, and it won't play. In fact, after 15 seconds, it automatically ejects the CD/DVD. The instructions that came with the Superdrive said "plug and play." That was it. What can I do to get this thing to work??
I really feel like an idiot. I took the Apple USB Superdrive and the computer back to the Apple Store and told the employee it didn't work. He said, "Sure it does. I have one hooked up at home on the exact same computer. (MacBook Pro 15" with retina display) He plugged it in, inserted a DVD, and, lo and behold, it worked perfectly. What a shock! Now, here's the kicker. The Apple USB Superdrive had been packed in the box upside down. The bottom of the Superdrive is black with a beautiful Apple logo on it. The top of the Superdrive is the plain burnished silver color with no identifying marks or logos. I had set it on my desk the way it came from the box - UPSIDE DOWN ! With the Apple logo on top, I had been loading the CD's/ DVD/s upside down. Of course it's not going to work that way! It now functions perfectly after I was shown that I had the Superdrive upside down on the desk. I tell you, it's tough to get old. A nice little Apple logo on top of the Superdrive instead of on the bottom might have helped too. Problem solved......
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when trying to add new mail to my macbook pro it crash on me
help please
thank youHello BassoonPlayer,
Since you are using one of the the school's Macbooks, it is quite possible that the time and date are not properly set on the computer that you are using. FaceTime will not work if you do not have the proper time zone set up for the location that you are in. This past week, there were a two other Macbook users I've helped by simply telling them to set the Date/Time properly. By the way, you described your problem very well, which makes it easier for us to help you. Hope this solves your problem -- if not, post back and I can suggest other remedies.
Wuz -
Recently got a new iPod Touch 4th gen; I had previously backed up to iCloud and subscribed to iTunes Match, and then wound up syncing the new iPod to my MacBook Pro; all iCloud tunes were downloaded to Mac but won't all sync to the iPod after multiple attempts, despite all songs showing properly on the Mac and multiple syncs occurring after all songs were properly reflected on the Mac. I updated iTunes Match from the iTunes Store menu as well pre-sync.
I should mention that I had previously had the library on a Dell (which is still running) and shared it on my home network. While all iTunes purchases now show in the Dell, the Mac is the device I use for all syncs.
There appears to be no rhyme or reason to the iCloud physical sync failure - some songs were legacy, some were purchased via the PC, some on the old iPod.
The Mac shows all the songs correctly and none show iCloud status -all have been downloaded, but the downloaded songs that were previously showing up as iCloud based aren't syncing to the iPod.
Is there any way to force all music being seen by my iPod as iCloud to download to so I can listen to them offline? Is there a way to force the sync from iTunes?The "system" performed as designed. All devices syncing to one iCloud account are kept in common sync. The idea is that all such devices belong to one user. Different users should have different iCloud accounts. Once your contacts were edited, all devices were updated as well and subsequent backups (from yours and her device) reflected the changed contacts (and any other data that may have been edited like calendars). Your first task is to change your daughter over to a new account before she makes other changes.
The only way I see for getting back contacts is to restore them from a time machine backup, assuming you also have a Mac included in the account which syncs the contacts. However, I'm not sure whether time machine includes contacts from iCloud along with those that are local, "on my Mac".
Otherwise the deleted contacts are gone. -
How do I know what files to remove from my Macbook Pro laptop?
Apparently my hard drive is full and I need to remove files so I have space to download more music and movies. I don't want to delete important files. How do I go about doing this?
How do I know what files to remove from my Macbook Pro laptop?
Remove only files you yourself stored on the laptop; files in your Home folder. Don't delete any files from the system libraries, and if you want to remove applications, use the provided uninstallers.
For files in the media libraries - iTunes, iPhoto, iMovie use the application to delete music, photos, movies.
If you are planning on storing more movies and music on your mac, deleting old files will probably not suffice alone to free enough space. Consider to get yourself an external drive to store your media. -
I have the newer version of the macbook pro and I have read the directions on how to authorize your computer to let you download previous song purchases from icloud onto your laptop, but I cannot find where it says "authorize this computer" at all. I have looked for it everywhere and still cannot find it. Please help!
Authorization and Deauthorization
Macs: iTunes Store- About authorization and deauthorization.
Windows: How to Authorize or Deauthorize iTunes | PCWorld.
In iTunes you use the Authorize This Computer or De-authorize This Computer option under the Store menu in iTunes' menubar. For Windows use the ALT-S keys to access it. Or turn on Windows 7 and 8 iTunes menus: iTunes- Turning on iTunes menus in Windows 8 and 7.
More On De-authorizing Computers (contributed by user John Galt)
You can de-authorize individual computers, but only by using those computers. The only other option is to "de-authorize all" from your iTunes account.
1. Open iTunes on a computer
2. From the Store menu, select "View my Account..."
3. Sign in with your Apple ID and password.
4. Under "Computer Authorizations" select "De-authorize All".
5. Authorize each computer you still have, as you may require.
You may only do this once per year.
After you "de-authorize all" your authorized computers, re-authorize each one as required.
If you have de-authorized all computers and need to do it again, but your year has not elapsed, then contact: Apple - Support - iTunes - Contact Us. -
Favor, what is Battery model no. for Macbook Pro 17" 2.16Ghz Intel Core Duo
Favor, what is Battery model no. for Macbook Pro 17" 2.16Ghz Intel Core Duo?
This will fit:
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MA458LL/A/rechargeable-battery-17-inch-macbook -pro?fnode=5a
Ciao. -
What is the best stylus for macbook pro?
What is the best stylus for macbook pro?
I dont understand? Why would a mac use a stylus when they aren't touchscreen?
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What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?
What is the best antivirus for MacBook Pro?
1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices. -
What TV's are compatible with Macbook pro using HDMI in the capacity off a monitor?
What TV's are compatatable with Macbook pro to use as a monitor using HDMI?
Hi Ralph,
More information about using HDMI displays with your MacBook Pro is available here -
Mac computers: Frequently asked questions about using HDMI
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4214
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Brett L
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