What size should still photos be so no cropping or stretching occurs?

Hi, I want to prepare photos for a slideshow in iMovie HD. What size
should the photos be so no cropping or stretching occurs??
It's the photo prep that is a problem. The photos are like scrapbook
layouts done in Photoshop. They have edges, like borders that I do
not want cropped. I want them to fit exactly. I tested a 12x8 size
and it is letterboxed in iMovie.
I wish I knew the dimensions in iMovie so I can make my photos that
exact size. I have looked everywhere!
Also, I am doing this slideshow to be shown during the half-time show at a
charity football game. They said they need it in AVI format. I
suppose I just make a DVD with the movie as an .AVI exported from iMovie
or via QT.
Thanks!

If you want no black borders to the imported still images in 4:3 video projects, their aspect ratio must be NTSC 720x528 or PAL 788x576 or some larger multiple of those figures (NTSC 1024x751, 2048x1502, 2095x1536 etc, or PAL 1024x749, 2048x1497, 2101x1536 etc).
If you want no black borders to the imported still images in 16:9 video projects, their aspect ratio must be NTSC 875x480 or PAL 1050x576 or some larger multiple of those figures.
See also:
http://www.sjoki.uta.fi/~shmhav/iMovieHD_6bugs.html#stills

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loristach wrote:
When creating a project with pictures do you need to resize pictures before inputting?
No

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Hi,
I am not an expert on this subject but since nobody has replied yet, I thought I would give you my current thoughts on the subject so then someone can either confirm it or shoot me down in flames.
If we are talking about a HD TV, they have a screen resolution of about 1920 x 1080 or 1360 x 768 so if your images are greater than that, something has to do some down sizing.
I think that a normal DVD can has a limitation on size of 720 x 480 (NTSC) or 720 x 576 (PAL). To get a greater resolution than that you need to talk about Blu-ray.
The important thing to think about is the aspect ratio. The widescreen TVs are 16:9 and your photos are probably 4:3. If you want a full screen picture without black margins each side then I suggest that you do some cropping first.
I tend to crop to 16:9 aspect ratio (using crop tool) and then resize the image to 1920 x 1080 (using image resize). I use a larger size if I know I want to use pan & zoom effects. I use that size, even though some pixels will be lost, just in case I switch to Blu-ray in the future and it might save a bit of work then.
Hope that helps (and is correct)
Brian

What size should the original image be for 100% width so it is responsive?

What size should the original image be for 100% width so it is responsive?

Please check these documents for details :
https://helpx.adobe.com/muse/how-to/muse-optimize-graphics-assets.html
https://helpx.adobe.com/muse/how-to/muse-size-resolution-graphics.html
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HT5117 I am producing an ibook with video and jpg images, what sizes should they be?

I am producing an ibook with video and jpg images, what sizes should they be?
<Image Edited by Host>

I and others answered a similar question only yesterday.
There are also many other similar posts and it is advised we first check out "our" problem by doing a search.
I also suggest you download "iBookstore Asset Guide 5" its a pdf and contains all the information you ask for.

What resolution should my photos be in Premiere Elements?

Photos make great source files for a Premiere Elements project, but you’ll find the highest quality results and the best performance from the program if the sizes of your photos are properly optimized before you bring them into your project. We urge you to make sure that any photo you use (especially if you use several in a slideshow) has been resized to no larger than 1000x750 pixels before you bring it into your Premiere Elements project to ensure the best quality and optimal program performance. (Photos taken directly from digital cameras can be 20 to 25 times that size!)
At first this may seem to go contrary to common wisdom. Traditionally, the higher the resolution of your photo, the better the quality of the output. But remember that Premiere Elements is a video editing program, and video is a relatively low resolution medium (essentially the equivalent of 640x480 pixels). And, to a point, reducing the resolution of a photo or graphic to be used in a video actually improves the quality of the video output. (1000x750 pixels seems to be that point)
The reason for this has to do with a process called downsampling, the system a video program uses to bring high-resolution photos down to video size. Premiere Elements does a fair job of this – but, as any pro knows, nothing that happens automatically will be as clean or as efficient as what you do manually. “Down-rezzing” is definitely one of these things.
There’s also a more pressing reason for downsampling your photos yourself. The process of “down-rezzing”, like the process of assimilating non-DV-AVI files into a video project, is a very intensive process. So intensive, in fact, that it’s the single biggest reason Premiere Elements fails, particularly during the disc burning process.
It takes a lot longer for the program to down-rez a 4000x3000 pixel photo than it does a 1000x750 pixel photo. Many, many times longer. And would you rather wait an hour or two for the program to transcode your DVD or 10 hours for a process that might end up with the program choking and dying anyway?
Photoshop Elements, by the way, has a very nice batch resizing feature that can resize a whole folder full of photos in just a few clicks. You’ll find it under the program’s File drop-menu, listed as Process Multiple Files.
For high-definition video, you can increase the size of the photos to 2000x1500 -- although you should be aware that this will require much more processing time and computer power than standard definition video.

Rene,
For the ultimate viewing on an HD TV, one is best to do a BD Project and then burn to a BD (Blu-ray Disc). Going to any SD format, like DVD-Video will result in having the material up-rezed to fit. This will work to varying degrees of success, and will depend very heavily on the set-top player's uprezing capabilities, plus on the settings on the TV, as well. There WILL be quality compromises, when viewing and SD Project on an HD player and TV.
Even with HD Projects, one is best to size the still images as closely, as is possible, to the Frame Sizes in that Project's Preset, say to only a bit more than 1920 x 1080, if that is the Preset chosen for the HD (BD) Project. Here's a LINK to the accepted HD formats.
This ARTICLE will give tips on resizing of stills before Import. Now, the sizes listed are SD, but it's easy to "do the math" to get to a BD Project Preset size.
Good luck, and hope that this helps,
Hunt

What size should my movies be to not get cut off?

I am making a tutorial DVD. I used Snapz Pro to record a bunch of screen capture movies and then edited them together in FCP and exported them as 1024x768 animation movies and they look great. Now I want to burn them to DVD. When I take them as they are and put them on a DVD the top and bottom of the screen get cut off. Can I just resize the movies in QT pro to a different size so they won't cut off? If so what size? Is there a better way?

Scott,
A mix of this QuickTime Pro: How to Make Picture-in-Picture at http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=42633 and the following procedure I put together a couple of years ago to use the small movies produced by still digital cameras in iMovie/iDVD:
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2. Open your DiMage X movie in QuickTime Pro. Open the saved mask in another QuickTime Pro player (at 15 fps).
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4. Select the DiMage X clip and then edit -> add scaled the mask
5. Next, select movie -> get movie properties
6. Select video 2 on the left box and layers on the right box. Set the layers to 1 (that moves the mask to the back).
7. Select video one on the left box and size on the right box. Click on adjust. Red hack marks appear around the video. Click on the picture (not the mark) and center the video on the lightened 320 x 240 box.
8. The video may not completely cover the lighter box, but the hack marks should line up. When you view the movie, if you used a "slightly lighter" black for the center area, you won't a notice a lighter area when played in iDVD.
9. Export it as a DV stream. Bring it into iDVD.
will give you an idea on how to proceed. Obviously, you will need to come up with your own mask and cut-out size - 640x480 ISN'T what YOU want.

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I am creating a web product video but don't know what size i should make it. Thanks.

Where will the video be stored online? Youtube? On your own server?
How will it fit into the web page it's being displayed on? Full screen? In a little sidebar?
Will the video ever need to be distributed in any other way, like DVD or Bluray?

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Hi guys!
I know these sorts of questions get asked and asked...and believe me I have read tons on the subject...just so much conflicting info it is hard to get to grips with it all....
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Can someone point me in the right direction as to what I should be considering when designing a new site?
Has anyone any good links to Courses, how to's etc on this...
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bookie56

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Still photo quality worse after cropping

I've imported tens of photo's (jpeg) in order to make a titlesequence, the photo's appearing as small rectangles on the right side of the screen, the titles on the left. While in full screen the photos are excellent, after cropping they are lousy. How come and what to do? Thanks in advance.
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What size for stills should be imported?

My stills are 2272 x 1704 jpegs (4:3 ratio). SHould I reduce them or leave them at that size when I import? I'm making slide shows for DVD.

I'm using Premiere 4. My original presets were HD1080i 30 My video clip was 720 and my stills were both orginal from the camera and 1440x1080.
The way I burned Blu_ray onto DVD: Share>Personal Computer>MPEG>HD1080i 30 (there are ten others to select from). I created a folder on my desktop and then saved the project to it. Then I burned this folder to my DVD using a third party burn program (Roxio). The Video and stills were superb on my 52" HDTV. The sound played also. Menus did not work. The DVD only played on my Playstation 3 Slim's (PS3) Blu-Ray but would not play with my Samsung Blu-Ray or on my computer. I got a PS3 originally because the reviews gave it the highest marks for BluRay. PLus I got the added benefit of game playing. It comes with a 120gb disk so I guess it handles files of all kinds better than a "straight" BluRay player. I did not try the DVD disk on a regular DVD. I'll try that and get back to you. I doubt if it works.
When I selected HD1080i 30, it created 2 files. M2T of around 239mb ( it was a short couple of minutes project test although I did a longer 10 minute version also). The other file was a XMPSES of 551kb
I also tried the same procedure using Share of HD720i 30. Three files were created. mpg of 148mb (PRE3 says this is MPEG2); XMPSES of 525kb and a third called XMP of 3kb. Operation and procedures were the same. The quality seem the same on the HDTV as the 1080i test althouh based on the size of the comparaive files, 1080i is "better". Again, this only worked on my PS3 with sound but no menus.
If you can live without menus, and have a PS3, it seems to be cheap way to go. I added a title page to the beginnering of my show to make up for the menu loss. But of course it probably won't work on your freinds BluRay unless its PS3. This seems to be a quick way to go until I get a BR burner.

What size should the back-up drive be?

I'm using a lacie 1TB External firewire drive to back-up my 250gig iMac, I mostly use the mac for email, photos, home use etc. (The drive is almost full, using 230 gig). (Yes I know that's too full and I plan to put in a 500 gig drive). I upgraded to leopard about a month ago and set up time machine recently. There are 17 backups- "lines" in the time machine "star wars" screen- on the external drive totaling 700 gig of data!!
I have not added any pictures or large files since beginning to use Time machine. Should the time machine backups use that much space? I thought after the initial back-up time machine only keeps record of the changes.? Using CCC I could have cloned the hard drive three times and still have room left!
Does the large amount of HD space used to back-up sound ok for only a 250 hard drive?
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Many users here recommend that your TM volume be about two and a half times the size of the data on your main hard drive. So, if you have 400GB of data to back up, you should give TM a 1GB volume for backing up.
But in my experience, how much space you need really depends on your computer usage patterns. My weekly backups go all the way back to January 2008, when I first started. My main hard drive has 115 GB used of 148 GB total. My TM backups of that disk total 168 GB on a 212 GB partition. So I have never needed to have nearly as much backup space as the 2.5 multiplier recommendation.
I try to manage my computer use so that Time Machine is not backing up files I do not want backed up, and is not backing up stuff twice if I move files to a different location. I rarely work with large files (no photoshop, no Final Cut Pro, etc). When I do have large files, they usually start in my Downloads folder. If I want to keep something I download, I eventually move it to a different location. To prevent TM from backing it up twice and unnecessarily using up space on the TM drive, I exclude my Downloads folder from being backed up. I'll let TM back it up after the download is in its new permanent location.
I don't really consider it a big deal to not have backups of the contents of my downloads folder. I figure that if my hard drive breaks and I lose all of my downloads, I can just download them again.

Optimal Size of still photo's in iMovie 11

I'm using iMovie 11, Aperture 3, & OS 10.6.7 and have two questions:
1. What is the best image size to use for my still-images in iMovie 11. I have all my still-images in Aperture in RAW format and will export them, but unsure how large to create the jpg's.
2. Additionally, iMovie only seems to search for still-images in either Aperture or iPhoto. I cannot find anything in Preferences that will point to a folder where these jpg's can be stored outside of these app's. My understanding is also that to create jpg's from RAW in Aperture, you have to export outside of Aperture and then import back into Aperture. Does Aperture 3 have any in app feature that will do this (this questions should probably posted with Aperture discussion!).
Thanks for your help.

Current solution to my inquiry after a session consulting with the Apple Store Genuis is that I settled on allowing iMovie 11 to reference the RAW pictures from my Aperture folders. iMovie will convert the RAW files to what seems is its default, therefore my 8MB RAW images seem to be converted to 300 to 400 kb size.

What size should my background layer image be for web?

I'm doing a logo design for someone I know and he wants it placed ontop of a steel texture background. I've sourced out a good quality image but despite my diligence in trying to understand how image size and resolution works, I can't seem to grasp what I need to do with it. I've watched countless videos, but it must be a problem with the ol' brain in the head I have.
This is most likely (at least for now) just for web. My main focus is just getting this right so that it looks crisp and sharp on screen.
The image I have is 1024 x 1384 pixels 72dpi. So 14.2 inches wide by 19.2 inches high.
Do I need to change this at all? I will be cropping the image, but I'm worried that I will make it too small and therefore it will need to be enlarged and I might encounter some blurring.
Should I enlarge it? I heard this isn't the most ideal thing.
72dpi is as high as the resolution needs to be for screen images, but is there any advantage in bumping that up? Why couldn't I just make it 300dpi for the heck of it?
Do I need to pay attention to inches, or is that just good guide for when you are printing something?
I'm honestly just trying to get my head around it all so that in the future I don't have to spend so much time figuring out what I need to do. Everything I read and any help is greatly appreciated.

Bayne86 wrote:
Ok be prepared for a dumb question...
If you're telling me to forget dpi/ppi when working with screens, how come you then say to think in terms of pixels for screens and to double the resolution for retina screens? I'm obviously a bit confused about the terminology here..
With screen based design work, design with pixels in mind. So if you design for a website that is 1140px in width, then that is your base target width. With retina screens the screen resolution is effectively doubled up, but the relative size of elements show on such a screen is ideally the same as if you would be working on a screen with half the resolution.
Example iPad:
old iPad: 1024x768px.
new iPad retina: twice that: 2048*1536.
Your logo would be rendered at the same size on both screens. Let's say at 800X400 on the older screen. Because the retina screen behaves like a 1024x768 screen in rendering all elements, but effectively doubles the available resolution, you would have to provide an ipad developer with a 1600x800 version, which can be used for both screens, and makes sure that it looks razor sharp on the retina screen.
No ppi. No dpi. Think in pixels only. With 4k screens around the corner this will become even more harrowing. That is why we are currently seeing the return of true vector graphics for screen and interface development. To complicate matters, since this is a relatively new development a lot of information on the web is completely outdated. I would not trust most info that is much older than two years, and double check even that. Check out Apple's icon and graphic creation guide for more ideas:
http://developer.apple.com/library/ios/documentation/userexperience/conceptual/mobilehig/I consImages/IconsImages.html
Now, things become even more confusing once you decide the graphics have to be prepared for a fluid and/or responsive designed web page or application. That background graphic you chose will not work well at all on a web page background, because it does not seamlessly repeat. That means it will be automatically scaled up and down to cover the entire browser window frame. Using an ultra-high resoluton background image just will not do: it eats up video memory for breakfast, is slow on certain devices, and may take ages to download. For these reasons, and many more, you need to be efficient and clever.
So I would choose a seamless repeating metal background with enough detail that does not stand out too much (otherwise it would be noticed too much as to repeat). Another trick is to provide a lower resolution alpha transparent png mask to add a soft lighting effect to the metal background, and perhaps the logo. That png mask could then be scaled up because you would not notice the low resolution at all - better, the mask would become fuzzier, which does not matter for a soft lighting mask! Even a 512x512 mask or lower would work very well.
That logo of yours (second image) will NOT render as a vector at all. It must be saved as a bitmap.
The logo in the last image could work as an SVG, and become completely scalable on a web page or in an application (depending on the support for SVGs)
Bottom line is that, for web page development and for app development, seperate layered versions will be required for the highest quality and most flexible result. A merged version will probably be quite useless. At least, it would be for me as a website/app developer and UX designer. Ideally I would like access to the Photoshop file, but I will settle for high resolution png files for each element. And if vector files can be send to me as SVG files: YES PLEASE!
So the question remains: what are the client's output requirements? Is this for a website? What are the target platforms? And so on. Also remember that most people probably would not notice the difference between a "normal" 1024x768 image and a retina version for a background like yours, because the focus would be on the logo. So another approach is to provide a lower resolution (smaller file sized!) background image, and a higher resolution logo image that takes advantage of retina resolutions. Our brains cannot differentiate a lot of detail in darks. Take advantage of this.
Hope this helps a bit!

What size should my imported media in After Effects be?

I have a Premiere Pro file that I am trying to convert to h.264 in After Effects. I had originally conveted an avi with a non compatible codec for Premiere to understand to a 720x480 dvd vob file for ease of importing. I didd'nt loose too much quality in the process which I was happy about.
When exporting an HDV 1080p 24 scene from Premiere to AE for a bit of editing, the new dimensions turned out to be 1440x1080. After rendering to an h.264 mp4 movie in AE, the end result was crystal clear but the physical size of the live video was about half the size of the original 720x480 vob file I began with.
Idk if the size of the project is 1440 x 1080 and the video itself is smaller like canvas and image sizes in photoshop? I'm kinda new at this.
Render Settings
Quality: Best
Resolution: Full
Size: 1440 x 1080
Proxy Use: Use No Proxies
Effects: Current Settings
Disk Cache: Read Only
Color Depth: Current Settings
Output Module - Custom H.264
Format: H.264                                                   Channels: RGB
Output Info: Main Concept H.264 Video       Depth : Millions of Colors
                      Bitrate: 3.00 Mbps                      Resize: -
Include: -                                                            Crop: -
Output Audio: 48.000kHz / Stereo                 Final Size: 1440 x 1080
                                                                             Profiles: -
                                                                             Embed Profiles: -
Am I missing a step here or does it have to do with my render and output settings?
Thanks to all,
Dan

I have a Premiere Pro file that I am trying to convert to h.264 in After Effects.
That's not the best method. After Effects can't do multipass encoding which provides better-looking video at smaller file sizes. Use Adobe Media Encoder to encode into H.264. If you're using AE to do some color grading, motion graphics, or compositing, render a lossless video out of AE and use the Media Encoder to do the final compression.
... 720x480 dvd vob file for ease of importing...When exporting an HDV 1080p 24 scene from Premiere to AE for a bit of editing...
I'm not sure what you're saying here. Are you taking a smaller video file and blowing it up to 1080?
Also, AE is not a good program for editing; Premiere is an editing program. AE is for compositing, motion graphics and (for some people) color grading.
Also also, you shouldn't have to export from Premiere to AE. You can import a Premiere project directly into AE with cuts and all intact.
When exporting an HDV 1080p 24 scene from Premiere to AE for a bit of editing, the new dimensions turned out to be 1440x1080
What do you mean by "new dimensions"? The normal size for HDV video is 1440x1080. The pixel aspect ratio stretches it out to appear 1920x1080 on screen, but the actual pixel size is 1440x1080. Is the Premiere sequence you are exporting different? What video sources are you using? How are you exporting?
Also, as mentioned previously, you shouldn't have to export from Premiere to AE. You can import a Premiere project directly into AE with cuts and all intact.
After rendering to an h.264 mp4 movie in AE, the end result was crystal clear but the physical size of the live video was about half the size of the original 720x480 vob file I began with.
No such thing as "physical size" in the digital world unless you print something out. Are you saying the finished video appears smaller on your screen?
Idk if the size of the project is 1440 x 1080 and the video itself is smaller like canvas and image sizes in photoshop? I'm kinda new at this...Am I missing a step here or does it have to do with my render and output settings?
There is nothing like canvas and image sizes in AE. Now, if your video doesn't fill the composition, it will be smaller... To be honest, I'm not actually sure what your question is. What is the actual problem you're having?
To be honest, you should really start here and work your way through those resources. Not only will it (probably) answer your current issue, but it will make you better able to ask questions in the future, because you will understand the vocabulary.

What size should still photos be so no cropping or stretching occurs?

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