Will my 70-300 Canon Zoom lens + a 2x multiplier function on a new EOS T3i

Will  my 70-300 Canon Zoom lens + a Canon 2x multiplier function on a new EOS T3i?

Basically.... no.
As far as I know, Canon 2X Extenders (teleconverters) cannot even be fitted to any of the 70-300mm lenses. The Canon Extenders all have a protruding front element that prevents them from even being attached to quite a few lenses. They can be fitted to the 70-200mm zooms, as well as the prime lenses 135mm and longer.
A third party 2X would physically fit onto the lens. But.... Most 70-300mm are f3.5-5.6 aperture lenses. With a 2X on them two stops of light are lost to the teleconverter, so the lens/TC combo becomes and effective 140-600mm  f7.1-11 lens. Your camera will stop autofocusing with smaller than f5.6 aperture lenses (only 1D-series and 5D Mk III can still focus at f8, even they would fail to focus at f11). Your could still manually focus, except the viewfinder will be quite dim to try to do so.
And, frankly, I wouldn't expect much in terms of image quality. A strong (2X) teleconverter on a zoom lens is often not a great combo.
My advice would be to save up for a longer focal length lens... Something I use a lot, which has good image quality and  focuses very well, even in combination with a Canon 1.4X teleconverter, is Canon EF 300mm f4 IS lens. There is also the Canon 400mm f5.6 lens, but it lacks IS (so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod). If you prefer a zoom there are the Canon 100-400mm IS and  Sigma 120-400mm OS or 150-500mm OS. I hear that Tamron is developing a new 150-600mm VC lens that's supposed to be competitively priced, but I don't know when that will be available or have any advance info on it's performance or image quality.
Besides these options... get closer to your subjects. That's often going to give better results, anyway, since with longer focal lengths you'll be shooting from a greater distance, it's much harder to get a steady shot, plus there often can be various atmospheric effects that reduce image quality too.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

Similar Messages

  • Will my older Canon Zoom Lens EF 80 - 200 work with the new Canon SL1?

    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Enjoy. All EF mount lenses fit the SL 1
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Which digital camera will accept a FD 35-70mm and a 80-200mm auto zoom lens?

    Purchased T50 Canon camera 20+ years ago.  Barely used, but needs repair.  Also purchased  FD 35-70mm Canon zoom lens and 80-200mm auto zoom lens.  Which Canon digital camera will accept these lens?

    FD series lenses are pre-EOS.  They don't auto-focus.  
    Canon started this line with the F-1 in 1971 and continued with them until around 1990 and they were phased out in favor of the EOS system.
    You can find a list of bodies that use FD lenses here:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_fd
    I have a Canon AE-1 (still have it ... still works!) which uses FD lenses.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Canon EOS rebel T3i. Zoom lens

    My partner has a new camera. She Is a beginner she wants. Zoom lens. What do you. Suggest.?

    Canon makes quite a range of zooms.
    There are a few general purpose zooms -- no extravagent features that drive up the price tag -- and these usually have ranges up to about 200 or 300mm focal length.  They tend to not be too expensive (e.g. $300 give or take.)
    But there are some uses for which these general-purpose zooms are not ideal and I'd like to make sure that's not what she needs.
    While most people tend to use zoom lenses outdoors...  will this lens be used for either (a) indoor sports games (e.g. basketball) or (b) outdoor games played at night under lights?
    Action photography either indoors or under artificial lighting (e.g. sports games that are not playing during the day) struggle with (a) having enough light to use shutter speeds adequate to freeze action and (b) performance of the auto-focus motors which may not keep up.
    A general purpose zoom will have a variable focal ratio ranging from f/4 to f/5.6 (when zoomed all the way in, it's almost always f/5.6).  A high-end zoom will be able to provide a constant focal ratio of f/2.8 -- that literally collects FOUR times more light when an f/5.6 lens... so if a consumer grade zoom is trying to shoot... say an indoor basketball game and struggling with the light to use any shutter speed faster than 1/250th sec (not fast enough to freeze action)... the f/2.8 zoom in that same lighting would let you take that shot at 1/1000th sec (easily fast enough to freeze action).  
    With this in mind, I'll toss out a few options:
    1)  Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM and note that I bolded the letters "STM".  The STM lens is a redesign and refinement of Canon's previous EF-S 55-250mm lens which did not have the STM stepper-motor technology.  The stepper-motors are virtually silent, but they are much faster than the regular focusing motors.  Also, the optics of the lens have been refined and the STM version of the lens scores noticeably better for contrast and resolution (ability to resolve fine amounts of detail).  This lens lists for about $350.  It's a great general-purpose zoom.  It would do fine with outdoor daytime shooting. 
    2)  Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM and note that I bolded the number "70".  Canon makes a 75-300mm zoom.  That lens receives perhaps the most mediocre reviews of any lens Canon makes and is probably the least recommended lens in the lineup.  The 70-300mm, on the other hand, is a MUCH better lens both optically and performance-wise.
    3)  Canon makes several different white "L" series lenses with the 70-200mm zoom range.  The lens cames in either f/2.8 focal ratio versions (much more expensive) or in the f/4 version (less expensive) and there are versions with IS (image stabilization) and without.  The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II is the best of the lot by far... but also costs over $2k.  Going to the f/4 version (only collects half as much light as an f/2.8 lens, but twice as much as an f/5.6 lens -- so you're in the middle) drops the price, and getting the version that does not have image stabilization drops the price even more.  Also, f/2.8 lenses are heavy -- so you reduce weight with an f/4 lens.   The EF 70-200mm f/4L USM (note there's no "IS" on this version) lists for about $700.
    4)  Going back to the economically priced lenses... the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II is the least expensive lens I would suggest.  It lists for $300 (all these prices are list -- shop around).  This is similar to the first lens I mentioned, except it doesn't have STM motors.  Focus will be slower.  Most of the time that's not an issue, but if shooting action photography where the focus distance is changing rapidly... it would be an issue (e.g. sports games where the athlete is running toward you, for example.)  Also, the optics on this lens are not as refined as the optics on the STM version.  And then there is one feature which you might think is a nit, but it drives me nuts... I tend to use a polarizing filter when shooting outdoors to cut reflections and enhance color.  This version of the lens rotates as it focuses (the others do not).  That means that each time the focus changes, the polarizer would rotate and I'd have to reach forward and re-tune the polarizer (polarizing filters are rotated to tune them.)    This lens is about $50 less than the STM version...  I personally think having internal focus (focusing element is at the rear, not the front), a much faster focusing motor, and refined optics are all easily worth the $50 extra.
    There is an EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens (not that it's "75-300" and not "70-300") which does not get very flattering reviews but is only $200.  
    If you win the lottery, you want the EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x... at only $11,799!  If you do win the lottery, buy 2 and send one to me!  ;-)
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Canon EF 70-210mm F/4.0 Macro Zoom Lens

    Can a Canon EF 70-210mm F/4.0 Macro Zoom Lens previously used on a Canon EOS 630 be used on modern DSLR like the Canon 6D?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    georgey, the key here is "EF". If the lens in question is labeled EF, it will bolt up. But the real question, like the observation above, is it a good idea?   
    You are the one to decide that. If the results you get suit your needs than go for it. 
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon SLR

    Want to know if the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens for Canon SLR Cameras will fit and work with the EOS Rebel XTi camera.

    Absolutely. Just remember to learn how to hold all the extra weight steady when using it. Mine sees a lot of use, but it took a while to adjust to it's weight. .
    "A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

  • Need a lens correction for Canon zoom 8mm-15mm f4/L, it's not in the list of lens in LR

    Need a lens correction for Canon zoom 8mm-15mm f4/L, it is not in the list of lens in Ligthroom
    and how can I ad it?

    It's available with ACR 8.4RC, so I would imagine that it will be available with LR 5.4RC/5.4. Just when that will be, is not known by anybody outside of Adobe. Hopefully soon.

  • Are the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS EF Telephoto Zoom Lens USM

    Are the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS EF Telephoto Zoom Lens USM 0345B006AA and 0345B002AA the same lens?

    They should be the same lens. I suspect they are just from a different "product run"
    Here is a link that shows even more codes for the same lens:  Canon product numbers
    Mike Sowsun
    S110, SL1, 5D Mk III

  • Action zoom lens

    I have a Rebel T3i and I go to a lot of sports games, so I need some suggestions for action/zoom lens. I'm obviously not a professional photographer haha (: so I have to scratch off those large telefoto lens that the professional photographers use at games.

    It's not that the professional photographers WANT to spend all that money on those high-end lenses... but there are attributes which set those lenses above the others.
    The f-stop describes the size of the opening in the lens (the physical aperture) relative to the length of the lens.  The larger this opening is (the smaller the ratio) the more light the lens can collect when the shutter is open (and as a side-effect... it also produces a shallower depth of field ... that's the range of distances at which a subject will appear to be more-or-less in acceptable focus.)
    If these are outdoor games played in mid-day... lots of sunlight, then any telephoto lens will do.  For fast moving subjects its always nice to have fast moving focus motors (Canon's "USM" motors are the fastest, followed by the "STM" motors... the lenses which don't indicate "USM" or "STM" are the slowest.)
    However... if you are shooting either indoor games or outdoor night games played under artificial lighting then collecting enough light to allow for a fast shutter speed can be a real challenge.  To address that, low focal-ratio zoom lenses are ideal (e.g. f/2.8 zooms lenses) but these lenses aren't cheap.  To create a low focal ratio means that the diameter of clear aperture has to be large as compared to the focal length.  That means that each lens element must be physically bigger than it would be in a typical lens.  This creates a problem because large lens elements work like prisms near their edges in that they try to split light into their constituent "rainbow" wavelengths.  To combat that issue (which they refer to as "chromatic abberateion" or "color fringing") they have to create extra corrective elements.  That means these lenses are not just bigger and wider, but also have more physical glass in them and are more difficult to make.  This results in a more expensive lens.
    The professional sports photographers would much rather buy inexpensive lenses... if only they could get away with it.  
    If your'e shooting ourdoor games... the EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM may do the trick.  If shooting in less favorable lighting (indoor games) then the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II is certainly a fantastic (but not cheap) lens.  The EF 70-200mm f/4L USM is a MUCH less expensive alternative but it's 1 stop slower (it collects half the light when the shutter is open).  For outdoor games a longer focal length is desirable... usually around 300mm.
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • Zoom lens compatibilty

    I have an  EOS REBEL G and want to know if a vivitar 75-205 macro zoom lens  No. 22005946 will work on it.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    If you are looking at a manual focus Vivitar 75-205mm f3.8-f4.8 zoom lens... That was made for the old Canon FD lens mount  used on FTb, AE-1, A-1, F-1, etc. cameras.... The #22xxxxxxx serial number you mention strongly suggests this is an FD lens, manufactured by Kiron for Vivitar. If that's the case, it's probably a very nice lens, but...
    No, that cannot be used on any EOS camera (film or digital). Those all use the modern EF mount.
    I did a search and didn't find any Vivitar 75-205mm in the modern mount. So I am guessing the lens you are looking at is  is the old FD mount and the answer is "no" (that's probably why it's so cheap).
    EDIT: there is a Canon EF 75-300mm lens that sells pretty cheaply and will work on a Rebel G. It is not the best lens optically or for general performance, but is one of the lowest cost since that seems to be your biggest concern. This lens can be bought new for as little as $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EF-III-Telephoto-Packaging/dp/B00GEE8I1Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=13910997...). You might be able to find it for less used.
    Alan Myers
    San Jose, Calif., USA
    "Walk softly and carry a big lens."
    GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
    FLICKR & PRINTROOM 

  • Zoom lens T3i

    what is the best zoom lens for T3i that doesnt cost  a fortune

    You might want to head over to the-digital-picture.com and read some of the reviews.  Also keep in mind that if you want to test a lens, you can always rent the lenses you are considering before deciding which one to purchase.
    All lenses have trade-offs -- which is why the camera allows you to swap lenses (you can swap to the lens which is best for your needs.)
    "Zoom" simply means you can change the focal length within a range.  
    There are "wide angle zooms" (like the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5) which has a range from wide to very wide.
    There are standard zooms (like the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 which likely came with your camera if you bought the camera as a body + lens kit) which provides a little room in the wide angle plus a bit of telephoto focal length.
    And then there are the telephoto-zooms (which go from moderately enlarged telephoto image to a more strongly enlarged telephoto image.)
    I'm going to assume you probably want a "telephoto zoom".
    A very common companion zoom lens in the consumer price range (priced to not break the bank) is the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS.  I owned this lens and actually gave my copy away to a nephew -- I was never nuts about it.  Mostly I found the contrast disappointing and the "sharpness" (detail resolving) was a bit soft & mushy.  But some people really like the lens.
    The EF 75-300mm (and there are a few) does not have an impressive reputation.. it's perhaps the least favorite lens in the lineup.  The EF-S 55-250mm is a little better.
    The EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM has a fairly good reputation... it's a mid-range lens which means it's more expensive than the entry-level zooms.   
    That EF-S 55-250 has been updated to an "STM" version.  STM is Canon's new "STepper Motor" technology.  You can think of it as a "focus by wire" lens in that there is actually no mechanical linkage between the focus ring and the movement of the focusing elements inside the lens.  Turning the focus ring simply sends input to the computer electronics -- and the electronics interpret and focus the lens.  
    But the lens has a few very positive things going for it:
    The "MTF" scores for the lens are extremely good -- meaning that the contrast and resolution (accutance) of the lens seems to be greatly improved over it's predecessor.   
    The STM lenses are EXTREMELY quiet -- so quiet that it's hard to tell that the focus motor is even working.  It was deliberately designed so that when shooting video, the internal mic on the camera would not be able to pick up the audio noise of the lens focus motor (on some lenses it can barely pick up the sound, but it is extremely quiet).  
    Lastly, the STM motors are not quite as fast at focusing as the USM motors, but they are much faster than the basic motors.  So the STM version of the 55-250 will be a faster/snappier focusing lens than the non-STM version (which is a big plus if you are shooting action photography with rapidly changing focus distances.)
    The list price on the STM version of the lens is only about $50 more than the non-STM version (about $299 vs $349 -- that's Canon list price... you may find retail stores selling it for slightly less.)
    You can read a review of that lens here: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-f-4-5.6-IS-STM-Lens.aspx
    I skipped comments on any of the "L" series lenses because they tend to be the most expensive lenses in the lineup (but offer the highest quality features -- not just in optics, but other features of the lens as well.)
    I would probably take a very serious look at (in order of preference - best being first):
    EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (on the spendier side so that may be out of your range)
    EF-S 55-250mm f/4-4.5 IS STM (note the emphasis on "STM" and not the non-STM version)
    EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II (not as good as the STM version but it will shave a few dollars off the price tag.)
    EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM (in last place -- a mediocre quality lens, but it is the least expensive of all.)
    Tim Campbell
    5D II, 5D III, 60Da

  • For Sale: Sony SCL-Z18X140 FZ Power Zoom Lens

    Bump!

    Hello All, I am selling our SCL-Z18X140 - Sony's FZ Mount power zoom lens. I've owned it for less than a year and used it only a handful of times so it's basically in brand new condition. The glass is completely clean with no pitting or scratches of any kind, and the servos are all in great working condition. There are also zero scratches on the body or the lens to be found anywhere. All original boxes, manuals, lens caps and hoods are included. This is an awesome lens for f3, f5, and f55 users because of it's long focal range of 18-252mm, manual and automatic focus and aperture control, and image stabilization. I am selling because we will be upgrading. Asking $6450.00, $6750 if through e-bay. Thank you! Photos can be seen here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131548772113?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

  • Combination zoom lens as alternative to 18-55mm & 55-250mm lenses for my T3i?

    I have a T3i with 18-55mm and 55-250mm lenses.  Switching lenses while sightseeing is a nuisance.  The shorter one is needed for close photos of museums, galleries, close up sites, ourselves and our friends, etc.  Longer lenses are useful for many outdoor city and rural/mountain shots.  Is there a reasonably priced combination zoom lens I should be considering?  Is there somewhere I can sell my current lenses.  My T3i and lenses are less than a year old.  Thanks.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Most photographers say to buy the best "glass" (lens) you can afford because they will last a lifetime. Good lenses are not cheap, so my advise would be to keep what you have right now, and learn all you can about them and the aspects of taking photos. While you are learning you can investigate the different lenses, determine what type of photography you are really wanting to take, and so have a better idea of what you NEED in a lens. Hope thgis helped a little.

  • Adobe Photoshop Elements 7   - Comparison with Picasa and Canon Zoom Browser

    I have recently bought a new computer and connected it to a USB hard drive which contained all my photos and a copy of an Adobe Photoshop Elements (APE) 4 catalog which permitted me to run APE 4 directly from the USB drive. The new computer runs on Windows 7 with Adobe Photoshop Elements 7. When I attempted to open the old catalog, created in APE 4 APE 4, APE 7 needed to convert it. The converted catalog then needed to reconnect with files and this took hours because APE seems to be incapable of sorting this out automatically. On the other hand Picasa 3 dealt with the matter in minutes and Canon Zoom Browser dealt with it in seconds. Why is this? What are the advantages of using APE 7 over Picasa 3 or Canon Zoom Browser?

    John McQuade wrote:
    I avoid keeping photos on the C Drive of my computer because of adverse past experiences of losing data when problems arose and it was necessary to reinstall Windows. I prefer to use two separate hard disc drives connected to my computer using  USB ports so that I have all photos and catalogs on each drive. PSE catalogs appear to be drive letter specific so that a catalog created on one drive will not function if simply copied to the other. In PSE-4 I overcame this problem by opening the copied catalog and changing all references to drive letters. In PSE-7 I am unable to open the database and my goal is to find a quick and efficient way of modifying a copied catalog so that it functions on a drive different to the one on which the catalog was created.
    Finally, and at long last, a kindred spirit that won't keep photos on the OS drive. I was told as recently as >> yesterday << that my post about saving photos anyplace else but  "C:/" was "non-sequitur".
    Second, I'm sort of accustomed to "USB drive", as a synonym for "flash drive", and "Ext HDD" referring to an external HDD, (this makes sense, at least in my twisted individual perception), so accordingly, I apologize for my knee-jerk lecture about it.  (In hindsight, perhaps the only child in me is expecting too much also).
    I never use external HDDs, but rather install additional HDDs internally to accomplish the same net result. My sensibilities here are, they are quite a bit less expensive, they do the same job, and you don't have addional s*** laying all over the place.
    IMO, you are overthinking the database issue. I get to say that since I have no such ability to do so, and additionally, I have never been unable to reconnect a catalog other than within the normal Windows environment.
    Therefore, I suggest changing the drive letter(s) to that of the old drive(s), and remain in blisslful ignorance as to whether PSE-7 is using the SN# or Drive letter to do its "dirty work".
    As Mr. Ellis has pointed out, you're trying to do too many things at once. I'm going to suggest an "experimental" fix which is sort of backwards from Mr. Ellis', but retains the same spirit.
    Install PSE-4 on the NEW machine! Insert its catalog file into its (PSE-4) correct folder. This location can be found by "Help" > "System Info".
    Upon installation, PSE-4 will generate a new catalog, "My Catalog", therefore you must change the old catalog's name, (say "My Catalog 2"), to avoid a conflict.
    You might have to change the "compatibility" mode for PSE-4 several times, before PSE-7 will be able to follow the file path.
    As an additional note, since PSE-7 is technically, (according to Adobe), "incompatible", you can match its compatibility mode with PSE-4's, at the onset. After you have stabilized the system, change PSE-7's mode back to whatever works best.
    If you need any more info on these operations, please feel free to post back.
    I would like to add, that my PSE-7 in Windows 7 runs poorly in comparision with the same program in the XP environment. This seems not to be "typical", but IMO, worth mentioning.
    Please also bear in mind that you can paste the entire catalog file into the "Open Catalog" dialog box, and PSE will place in its folder for you...!
    Then, assuming the HDD letters are the same, it will reconnect "instantly", or in the case of a PSE-4 ".psa" cat file, PSE-7 will convert it, then open it instantly.
    As an afterthought, by changing the drive letters, then pasting the .psa file into the "Catalog Open" dialog box, you do not have to make any additional installations of PSE, nor muck about in any database.

  • Blurry photos with zoom lens

    I have a canon xsi that takes lovely, crisp pics with the EFS 18-55 IS lens and a EF 50 1:1.4.  I wanted a zoom to take pictures of sporting events like soccer, baseball, and horseback riding.  I purchased Canon zoom EFS 55-250 1:4-5.6 IS.  Every single picture I take with this lens is blurry.  If a take a photo with a FL of 55 or 250, the image is blurry.  If there is action or if I'm zooming in on a still object, the image is blurry.  I have used the lens in great lighting conditions, and still blurry images.  I have made sure the the settings for the lens include stabilizer "on".  I have tried to trouble shoot, but have missed too many shots and need expertise.  Not sure if there is more for me to do (operator error), or is this an issue with the lens?

    The lens, in general, is a fine lens.  It's possible that you got a bad copy. If it is truly "every single photo" then most likely this is the case.  If you really mean, a lot of images are blurry then it could depend on many things.  If you posted a few examples (with EXIF data) it would help us determine if it's the lens or user error.
    In general longer lenses require faster shutter speeds to get sharp photos.  But if you've taken photos in good light (i.e. fast shutter speeds) and it's still blurry then something is off.  Hard to say what that something is without seeing images, otherwise we'll just have to guess. Common questions would be:
    Are you able to manual focus and get good photos?  Were you in autofocus at all?  Did you get confirmation (beep) that AF locks?  Is the image clear in the viewfinder?  What is the shutter speed?  etc.

Maybe you are looking for