BEST Backpack for Protecting My 17in PB?

Any suggestions on Backpacks for a 17in PB? I am always on the road, and need something that is protective....I have the incase one...it is nice, but not padded enough. I have seen the Brenthaven, and am impressed, but is this my only option for a solid backpack?
Thanks for your time,
steve

I use the Mack Truck case http://www.radtech.us/Products/MacTruck.aspx and tuck that inside of an old army backpack for maximum protection and urban camoflage.
PB 17" 1.67 Ghz Hi Res DL SD/120GB/1.5GB RAM/10.4.3   Mac OS X (10.4.3)   2.1 GHz GB G5 iMac 20" Monsoon MM2000 sound, el gato 200

Similar Messages

  • Best option for protecting the palm wrest area from staining?

    My new white MacBook is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow. I currently use a blackbook. Anyway, I have kind of oily skin, and I'm worried about staining on the white plastic on the new computer where my palms rest during use.
    What's the best option for protecting this area? I've seen the Marware protection pack, but I've read quite a few bad reviews on it.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks!
    Dave

    I use Mareware's product on my WhiteBook and it is sold at the Apple Store and Apple online. It also comes with a keyboard cover cloth to put on when the Book is closed to protect the screen. The cloth doubles as a soft wipe for the screen. The palm rest is custom fitted for the palm area and is removable. I have removed it twice and stuck it back on. Here's a link: http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?mco=A75 86758&nplm=TJ751LL/A

  • Good Backpack for protecting MBpro?

    I guys. I have taken advantage on the release of the c2duo and picked up a cduo mb pro for a hefty discount. I am currently a student and I am looking for something to protect my macbook pro since it will be attached to me at all times. I do not need a huge backpack. Just enough to hold the computer, a book and some cable. I am looking for something kinda stylish. Any suggestions?
    Thanks in Advance!
    15" Macbook Pro C2 2.16   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

    I've had a Brenthaven backpack for years now and can't imagine a much better bag. It has a secondary sleeve that acts as a carrying case - which can also velcro right into the backpack very securly.
    I think you can find them at Apple stores...
    http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&sa=X&oi=spell&re snum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=brenthaven+backpack&spell=1

  • Best backpack for school and mba 13 inch notebook?

    Hi,
    I am sorry if this is not in the right section. I am new the this forum.i am looking for a nice backpack to keep my schoolbooks in as well as my notebook, ipad and ipod touch. I was looking at the incase nylon backpack but am not sure if that is good to fit a 13 inch mba,ipad,2 1.5 inch binders as well as some other things to fit in the small pockets like a smartphone,ipod touch,pens,pencills,some usb connector cablers and maybe even over the ear headphones. I am looking at the incase backpacks but if there is anything better for my needs that you guys know of please let me know. Thanks in advance.

    Welcome to Apple Discussions!
    Whichever backpack you get make sure:
    1. The computer is padded with at least an inch of foam padding on all 6 sides.
    2. The straps are set so that not matter what you put in your bag, your back does not hurt lifting it up.
    3. Test your bag with some books of a typical weight to see if it might get too heavy.
    4. Make sure the books and power adapter are OUTSIDE the foam protection.
    5. Make sure that the screen has no chance of jamming into the keyboard.
    6. Shut down your Mac before transporting it. There have been reports of closed lids still resulting in a Mac waking from sleep, and overheating the Mac. Also the potential exist that a jarring action if it is awake unknowingly to cause a hard drive head crash. While normally it shouldn't happen since the sudden motion sensor can prevent such things, it isn't a perfect means of preventive medicine.
    7. Don't let any loose filaments or pencil lead, or other small particles get inside the foam cover. Clear it carefully of all debris when removing the notebook.
    8. Always lay the backpack so that the computer is on top of any books, and not underneath them, as the pressure might be enough to get through the foam, and hurt the computer.
    9. Make sure the bag is never left unattended for even a second, unless you are in a secure place that only you have access to. Same with the notebook.
    10. Don't make it obvious that it is a computer bag. Black bags are especially obvious.
    Good luck!

  • Exchange 2010 - What is best practice for protection against corruption replication?

    My Exchange 2010 SP3 environment includes DAG with offsite passive copy.  DB is backed-up nightly with TSM TDP.  My predecessor also installed DoubleTake software to protect the DB against replication of malware or corruption to the passive MB
    server.  Doubletake updates offsite DB replica every 4-hours.  Understanding that this is ultimately a decision based on my company's risk tolerance, to the end, what is the probability of malware or corruption propagation due to replication? 
    What is industry best practice: do most companies have a 3rd, lagged copy of the DB in the DAG, or are 3rd party solutions such as DoubleTake commonly employed?  Are there other, better (and less expensive) options?

    Correct. If 8 days lagged copy is maintained then daily transaction log files of 8 days are preserved before replaying them to lagged database. This will ensure point-in-time recovery, as you can select log files that you need to replay into the database.
    Logs will get truncated if they have been successfully replayed into database and have expired their lagged time-stamp.
    Each database copy has a checkpoint file (.chk), which keeps track of transaction log files status.
    Command to check the Transaction Logs replay status:
    eseutil /mk <path-of-the-chk-file>  - (stored with the Transaction log files)
    - Sarvesh Goel - Enterprise Messaging Administrator

  • Best practices for protecting files from ransomware?

    If you don't know what CryptoWall and such ransomware is, you are lucky. For now.
    This os probably more of a Desktop security issue but I'd like some ideas for file server protection.
    A corporate office got lucky today with just the files on one PC infected and network file shares the user had access to lost - but they were backed up, hence the "lucky".
    But it was scary enough they want to know what Microsoft wants us to do to prevent this in the future. The user was not admin on the local machine and so we are not sure how it was installed (I've read people get it different ways).
    We have SCCM EndPoint protection and obviously it didn't help. It did actually stop a password stealing utility from installing around the same time but didn't stop us from having thousands of files rendered useless for many hours today.
    It was suggested not using mapped network drives but I think one share was hit without a mapping (still waiting for confirmation). But I think anywhere it finds it, ie., under Favorites, could be attacked.
    Suggestions please.
    Thank you!

    You can try this.
    http://www.thirdtier.net/2013/10/cryptolocker-prevention-kit/

  • What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for my iMac desktop

    What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for my iMac

    None is needed.
    Helpful Links Regarding Malware Protection
    An excellent link to read is Tom Reed's Mac Malware Guide.
    Also, visit The XLab FAQs and read Detecting and avoiding malware and spyware.
    See these Apple articles:
              Mac OS X Snow Leopard and malware detection
              OS X Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
              OS X Mountain Lion- Protect your Mac from malware
              About file quarantine in OS X
    If you require anti-virus protection Thomas Reed recommends using Dr.Web Light from the App Store. It's free, and since it's from the App Store, it won't destabilize the system. If you prefer one of the better known commercial products, then Thomas recommends using Sophos.(Thank you to Thomas Reed for these recommendations.) If you already use Sophos, then be aware of this if you are using Mavericks: OS X Mavericks- Sophos Anti-Virus on-access scanner versions 8.0 - 9.1 may cause unexpected restarts
    From user Joe Bailey comes this equally useful advice:
    The facts are:
    1. There is no anti-malware software that can detect 100% of the malware out there.
    2. There is no anti-malware that can detect anything targeting the Mac because there
         is no Mac malware in the wild, and therefore, no "signatures" to detect.
    3. The very best way to prevent the most attacks is for you as the user to be aware that
         the most successful malware attacks rely on very sophisticated social engineering
         techniques preying on human avarice, ****, and fear.
    4. Internet popups saying the FBI, NSA, Microsoft, your ISP has detected malware on
        your computer is intended to entice you to install their malware thinking it is a
        protection against malware.
    5. Some of the anti-malware products on the market are worse than the malware
        from which they purport to protect you.
    6. Be cautious where you go on the internet.
    7. Only download anything from sites you know are safe.
    8. Avoid links you receive in email, always be suspicious even if you get something
        you think is from a friend, but you were not expecting.
    9. If there is any question in your mind, then assume it is malware.

  • What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my mac? Do I need Virus Protection?

    What is the best app for Maintenance/Cleanup for my Mac? Do I need Virus protection?

    How to maintain a Mac
    Make two or more backups of all your files
    One backup is not enough to be safe. A copy of a backup doesn't count as another backup; all backups must be made directly from the original data.
    Keep at least one backup off site at all times in case of disaster. Backing up to a cloud-data service is one way to accomplish this, but don't rely exclusively on such backups.
    In fact, don’t rely exclusively on any single backup method, such as Time Machine.
    If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
    Keep your software up to date
    In the App Store or Software Update preference pane (depending on the OS version), you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis.
    Keeping up to date is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Don't install such modifications unless they're absolutely necessary. Remove them when they are no longer needed. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all system modifications that you use are compatible. Incompatibility with third-party software is by far the most common cause of difficulties with system updates.
    Don't install crapware
    ...such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, such stuff is useless or worse than useless. Above all, avoid any software that purports to change the look and feel of the user interface.
    It's not much of an exaggeration to say that the whole "utility" software industry for the Mac is a fraud on consumers. The most extreme examples are the "CleanMyMac," "TuneUpMyMac," and “MacKeeper” scams, but there are many others.
    As a rule, you should avoid software that changes the way other software works. Plugins for Photoshop and similar programs are an obvious exception to this rule. Safari extensions, and perhaps the equivalent for other web browsers, are a partial exception. Most are safe, and they're easy to get rid of if they don't work. Some may cause the browser to crash or otherwise malfunction. Some are malicious. Use with caution, and install only well-known extensions from relatively trustworthy sources, such as the Safari Extensions Gallery.
    Only install software that is useful to you, not (as you imagine) to the computer. For example, a word processor is useful for writing. A video editor is useful for making movies. A game is useful for fun. But a "cache cleaner" isn't useful for anything. You didn't buy a computer so you could clean caches.
    Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve. Do not rely on "utilities" such as "AppCleaner" and the like that purport to remove software.
    Don't install bad, conflicting, or unnecessary fonts
    Whenever you install new fonts, use the validation feature of the built-in Font Book application to make sure the fonts aren't defective and don't conflict with each other or with others that you already have. See the built-in help and this support article for instructions.
    Deactivate or remove fonts that you don't really need to speed up application launching.
    Avoid malware
    "Malware" is malicious software that circulates on the Internet. This kind of attack on OS X was once so rare that it was hardly a concern, but it's now increasingly common and dangerous.
    There is some built-in protection against malware, but you can’t rely on it—the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party "anti-virus" products for protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness—not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
    Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must come directly from the developer's website. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from the web, without your having requested it, should go straight into the Trash. A web page that tells you that your computer has a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with it, is a scam.
    In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
    Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
    Don't fill up your disk or SSD
    A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a startup failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem.
    While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage use and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
    If storage space is running low, use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper to explore the volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move seldom-used large files to secondary storage.
    Relax, don’t do it
    Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
    To use a Mac effectively, you have to free yourself from the Windows mindset that every computer needs regular downtime for maintenance such as "defragging" and "registry cleaning." Those concepts do not apply to the Mac platform.
    A well-designed computing device is not something you should have to think about much. It should be an almost transparent medium through which you communicate, work, and play. If you want a machine that needs a lot of attention just to keep going, use a PC, or collect antique cars.
    The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

  • What is the best antivirus/malware protection software for a MacBook Pro?

    I bought my MacBook Pro in April of 2011 and it's been running fine ever since then. I do not keep too many files on my laptop and have everything backed up on a 4TB external hard drive. I have programs that keep my MacBook running smoothly and as fast as possible by clearing out unnecessary files. Recently, my MacBook has become slow and I now normally have to click on a button at least three times before the page loads or refresh the page. Sometimes I even have to force quit Safari and restart from the beginning just to load a web page. Programs will quit unexpectedly and downloading something takes ten times longer. I fear there may be something wrong with my MacBook and it might have a virus or something. What is the best antivirus/malware software to download? I'm leaning towards Norton Antivirus for Mac or Intego Mac Internet Security. Could someone please help me?

    1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
    If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
    OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
    2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
    The following caveats apply to XProtect:
    It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
    It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
    3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
    Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
    It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
    A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
    An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
    For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
    4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
    5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
    That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
    Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
    A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
    Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
    Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
    Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
    Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
    Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
    6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
    Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
    Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
    Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
    Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
    7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
    Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
    Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
    In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
    By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
    8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
    An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
    A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
    ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
    Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
    The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
    9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
    10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

  • Is anybody tell me which is the best setting for firewall, Flash player, safari and other applications  to protect my mac from risk

    what are the best setings to protect from risks

    Hi.
    I've been a Mac user since the days of the Mac Plus, about 1986.
    It's been my experience that the system defaults are generally enough to keep your Mac safe.  I know there are going to be others who will swear up and down that you HAVE TO do more... but the setup that ships with the newest Macs is pretty d*mn good.
    The best thing you can do to protect your machine is practice a little self control.  By that I mean, just follow some basic rules when your on using the machine and the internet.
    > Don't download files or apps from untrusted sites... sites you don't know.
    > Don't allow an application to install itself if you didn't initiate it. (This is how a trojan would infect a machine.)
    > Don't click on links in your e-mail if it's from someone you don't know.
    > Don't share your user IDs and passwords with others.
    > Install and use an anti-virus (Kaspersky, Symantic, et al).
    > Use Software Update regularly.
    There are other basics that you should keep in mind when using your Mac, and I'm sure others can add to this.
    Most of the issuse that people have when using Macs is because they don't use common sense... not because their machine has been hacked or attacked.
    OS X is pretty secure as it ships. And Apple is pretty proactive in keeping it updated.

  • What is the best way to protect it?

    I HATE getting scratches or any sort of cosmetical damage on my devices, I am getting my first MBP on Friday, and want to know what the best way to keep it like new is?
    It won't be leaving the house regularly for a while, but I do have a neoprene case which I think it will fit for travelling anyway.
    I have seen many people with cases on their Macs, I don't know what the proper name is for them, but they are like hard shells attached to the back of the lid, are these recommended? I have read about some heat issues with it.
    What is the best way to protect the screen? I don't ever touch it, so I don't think that will be a problem, but cleaning dust off etc.?
    Lastly, will the trackpad wear away? My laptop's trackpad has slightly faded from it being used a lot, are MBP's prone to this too? I will try to use a mouse as much as possible.
    Are there any other things I should know about? I read that the bottom can get scratched easily too? I would only use it on a flat surface, so something like my lap, so depending on how soft the metal is... It can't be that bad can it?
    Thanks!

    Wouldnt buy that, nope
    Hard cases protect the finish of your macbook, but they trap in heat, ....many here have spoken on same.
    A major part of a macbook pro, especially a RETINA PRO is dissipating heat from the alloy case, which this case prevents from happening.
    Yes, youre stopping all the scratch,.....and likewise keeping the Macbook from dissipating a lot of heat.
    When I said INCASE, I meant this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Incase-CL57482-Nylon-Sleeve-13-Inch/dp/B0043NTOKC/ref=sr_1 _1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382551803&sr=8-1&keywords=incase+carry

  • Best Practices for Using Photoshop (and Computing in General)

    I've been seeing some threads that lead me to realize that not everyone knows the best practices for doing Photoshop on a computer, and in doing conscientious computing in general.  I thought it might be a good idea for those of us with some exprience to contribute and discuss best practices for making the Photoshop and computing experience more reliable and enjoyable.
    It'd be great if everyone would contribute their ideas, and especially their personal experience.
    Here are some of my thoughts on data integrity (this shouldn't be the only subject of this thread):
    Consider paying more for good hardware. Computers have almost become commodities, and price shopping abounds, but there are some areas where spending a few dollars more can be beneficial.  For example, the difference in price between a top-of-the-line high performance enterprise class hard drive and the cheapest model around with, say, a 1 TB capacity is less than a hundred bucks!  Disk drives do fail!  They're not all created equal.  What would it cost you in aggravation and time to lose your data?  Imagine it happening at the worst possible time, because that's exactly when failures occur.
    Use an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS).  Unexpected power outages are TERRIBLE for both computer software and hardware.  Lost files and burned out hardware are a possibility.  A UPS that will power the computer and monitor can be found at the local high tech store and doesn't cost much.  The modern ones will even communicate with the computer via USB to perform an orderly shutdown if the power failure goes on too long for the batteries to keep going.  Again, how much is it worth to you to have a computer outage and loss of data?
    Work locally, copy files elsewhere.  Photoshop likes to be run on files on the local hard drive(s).  If you are working in an environment where you have networking, rather than opening a file right off the network, then saving it back there, consider copying the file to your local hard drive then working on it there.  This way an unexpected network outage or error won't cause you to lose work.
    Never save over your original files.  You may have a library of original images you have captured with your camera or created.  Sometimes these are in formats that can be re-saved.  If you're going to work on one of those files (e.g., to prepare it for some use, such as printing), and it's a file type that can be overwritten (e.g., JPEG), as soon as you open the file save the document in another location, e.g., in Photoshop .psd format.
    Save your master files in several places.  While you are working in Photoshop, especially if you've done a lot of work on one document, remember to save your work regularly, and you may want to save it in several different places (or copy the file after you have saved it to a backup folder, or save it in a version management system).  Things can go wrong and it's nice to be able to go back to a prior saved version without losing too much work.
    Make Backups.  Back up your computer files, including your Photoshop work, ideally to external media.  Windows now ships with a quite good backup system, and external USB drives with surprisingly high capacity (e.g., Western Digital MyBook) are very inexpensive.  The external drives aren't that fast, but a backup you've set up to run late at night can finish by morning, and if/when you have a failure or loss of data.  And if you're really concerned with backup integrity, you can unplug an external drive and take it to another location.
    This stuff is kind of "motherhood and apple pie" but it's worth getting the word out I think.
    Your ideas?
    -Noel

    APC Back-UPS XS 1300.  $169.99 at Best Buy.
    Our power outages here are usually only a few seconds; this should give my server about 20 or 25 minutes run-time.
    I'm setting up the PowerChute software now to shut down the computer when 5 minutes of power is left.  The load with the monitor sleeping is 171 watts.
    This has surge protection and other nice features as well.
    -Noel

  • Could any one please help me to select the best case for my iPhone 6plus gold?

    HI All!
    Could someone please tell me which is the best case for my new iPhone 6 plus gold. I do not want to lose the beauty of the gold back finish of my 6 plus.
    THanks and Regards
    Aneesh

    Hello, I just bought the same phone and didn't want a hard case so I ordered this case from Amaon.
    ZVE® Full-body Protection Case,iPhone 6 Plus Case, [iphone6 plus wallet Case] Apple iPhone 6 Plus Case 5.5 Inch [Slim] Leather Wallet Cover with S
    Sold by: Zwallet

  • Best option for initial setup of HD's on Xserve (possible RAID)

    I'm just about to set up a new network in a new office and have an Xserve with 3 HD's 2x700GB and 1x500GB drive.
    Now i have a fair bit of experience with the server itself, however i have zero experience with RAID.
    I would like to start automatic backups of the OS (which i do already in a round about way). And have several share points for users network homes and data.
    Does anyone have any suggestions of how to setup the HD's themselves, should i RAID? what would be the best option? etc etc etc.
    All suggestions are very welcome and appreciated.
    Thanks
    Steven

    No one can answer your question - at least not without more information.
    When deciding disk layout you need to factor things like how much usable disk space you need - in this case for users' data. Are the users home directories on the server, or do they just upload files to the server for storage/backup?
    What's the intensity of the data? Is reliability or performance more important? Would you pull your hair out if you lost a single file? a day's work? a week's work?
    How much downtime could you tolerate if the server crashed?
    These questions (and probably more) are important because it helps focus on the needs. For example, if the integrity of the data is more important than uptime you could mirror the two 700 GB drives for the user data and install the OS on the single 1TB drive. Of course this leaves you (slightly) vulnerable to a problem on the OS disk and you could be offline for hours if that disk failed. However, your user data would be mirrored and likely protected from disk failure.
    On the other hand, if the uptime of the server is more important, you might opt to install the OS on the 700GB mirror, using the 1TB for user data, relying on backups to restore this disk if it fails.
    Or, you might decide to put everything (OS and data) on the 700GB mirror, using the 1TB as the backup destination.
    On the other hand you might determine that you need 1TB of user storage space, in which case you either need to use the 1TB for user data, or you need to stripe the two 700GB drives into a 1.4TB array, but then that array has no redundancy and the loss of a single disk will result in the loss of all data.
    So, as I said, there is no one single answer to your question. You'll need to balance storage capacity and redundancy to find the best match for you.

  • Best Practice for SSL in Apache/WL6.0SP1 configuration?

    What is the best practice for eanbling SSL in an Apache/WL6.0SP1
    configuration?
    Is it:
    Browser to Apache: HTTPS
    Apache to WL: HTTP
    or
    Browser to Apache: HTTPS
    Apache to WL: HTTPS
    The first approach seems more efficient (assuming that Apache and WL are
    both in a secure datacenter), but in that case, how does WL know that the
    browser requested HTTPS to begin with?
    Thanks
    Alain

    A getScheme should return HTTPS if the client is using HTTPS or HTTP if it
    is using HTTP.
    The option for the plug-in to use HTTP or HTTPS when connecting to Weblogic
    is up to you but regardless the scheme of the client will be passed to
    WebLogic.
    Eric
    "Alain" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]..
    How should we have the plug-in tell wls the client is using https?
    Should we have the plugin talk to wls in HTTP or HTTPS?
    Thanks
    Alain
    "Jong Lee" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:3b673bab$[email protected]..
    The apache plugin tells wls the client is using https and also pass on
    the
    client
    cert if any.
    "Alain" <[email protected]> wrote:
    What is the best practice for eanbling SSL in an Apache/WL6.0SP1
    configuration?
    Is it:
    Browser to Apache: HTTPS
    Apache to WL: HTTP
    or
    Browser to Apache: HTTPS
    Apache to WL: HTTPS
    The first approach seems more efficient (assuming that Apache and WL
    are
    both in a secure datacenter), but in that case, how does WL know that
    the
    browser requested HTTPS to begin with?
    Thanks
    Alain

Maybe you are looking for

  • How do I move all of my apps from one touch to another

    I just bought a new iPod touch and would like to move all of my Apps to the new touch - when I sync the new touch the apps download as if they are new apps.  I have a games that I'd like to transfer with history.

  • Customizing Self Registration Form

    Hi, We have a scenario where when a user comes to perform self registration on OIM, we have to take different fields as input based on the user type. For example if the user is an external contractor we want to take input fields 1 and 2, and if the u

  • ARB Issue: Font Embedding Reprise

    Posted today: http://opensource.adobe.com/wiki/display/flexsdk/Font+Embedding+Reprise Please comment by Friday (04/10/09) morning. Thanks.

  • Kernel nitro3 and menuconfig

    Hi, im having the stranges occurrences. I tried 2 use this PKGBUILD of nitro in here http://bbs.archlinux.org/viewtopic.php? - ight=nitro, but changed the nitrover = 3. it downloaded fine, and it goes to the choice menu : ==> How do you want to confi

  • What is the steps for flash recovery of database

    pls tell us what sre the steps for the flash recovery of the database. how will we be do the auto recovery from flash recovery area...... rakesh