50L2400U and HDMI Switch Problem

I just purchased a 50L2400U LED TV and am having a problem, First there is only two HDMI ports and I have three HDMI devices, I have a HDMI switch the same one I used on my other HD TV when I hook up the switch nothing happens the LED lights up on the switch but cant switch between the Roku and the DVD player. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be ???

Gefen makes a product called the DVI Detective that is made just for such situations. You insert it between the mini and the receiver and it spoofs the mini into thinking the TV is always attached, even when the receiver is switched to something else.
Of course the downside is you are adding more hardware and it isn't cheap, but I don't know of any other workaround that will succeed, and this definitely will.
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/product.jsp?prod_id=1378

Similar Messages

Apple TV and HDMI switch

Can i connect AppleTV behind a HDMI switch?

many people repport issues when using hdmi switchs but then people who don't have any problems using them
don't write here so yes it should work
but if it does is a big maybe
you can use the forum search to do a hdmi switch search limited to this sub forum and read other peoples exps

Display And HDMI Switcher

So, I ran a twenty-five feet HDMI cable from the Mac Mini to the HDMI switcher and turned on the HTPC...all was well...until I switch to TV. Well, screen share would lock up on the MacBook Pro. Reconnection attempts failed and will not reconnect again till I select the Mac Mini through the HDMI switcher. The HTPC plan is not working seamlessly.
I was wondering whether a software such as SwitchResX help on the Mac Mini! I want to be able select the AppleTV, AndroidTV, Regular TV, and the Mac Mini on the HDMI switcher, and be able to control the Mac Mini screen on my MacBook Pro without loosing connection.

Okay, whay I need is an HDMI EDID Manager/Emulator...something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIIG-CE-ED0111-S1-HDMI-EDID-EMULATOR-PRO-READ-STORE-UPLO AD-MAINTAIN-INFO-/301052183354?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item46181bc33a

HP Pavilion dv9218tx Notebook PC and HDMI audio problem with Sony TV and Windows 7

Sound does not come through with the HDMI connection and, on investigation, there is no HDMI audio driver/option.
Noting that there seemed to be an issue with windows 7 and HDMI audio which is addressed by updating the BIOS and the connexant sound driver I have done so to no effect.
The Sony TV is recognised as a standard monitor in the devices for graphics but not for audio
Suggestions as to why HDMI does not appear - including as a disabled service - and what to do t get is available?

Hello everyone,
Thanks for posting on the HP Forums!
I will definitely assist you with lack of sound issues. Before anything else is done, please make sure you try every step in this thread: Troubleshooting Guide: Audio does not Work after a Certain Period of Time
If every step does not help, please provide the following information:
1. The computer's model number. If you require assistance locating this information, please reference this website: Guide to finding your notebook product number
2. The computer's operating system. If you require assistance locating this information, please reference this website to determine your Windows operating system.
3. Does this occur on certain programs, or all programs?
4. Have you installed any new software or drivers on this computer, before the issue appeared?
5. What steps have been attempted from my first post on this thread, and what were the results?
Additionally, if the issue just began occurring, I would perform a system restore. I want you to bring the computer back to the earliest restore point possible, in an attempt to dodge whatever caused the issue. Here is a document on how to perform a System Restore: System Restore
Either way, let me know what happens. Thanks!
Mario
I worked on behalf of HP.

Plugin-container in Firefox 4; High CPU and Graphics Switching Problems and Workaround

I recently upgraded to Firefox 4, and unfortunately, I've had many problems running Firefox under OSX on my Macbook Pro.
The first problem I came across was that Firefox is now hardware accelerated. This should be a good thing, but due to the way Apple has implemented graphics switching, Firefox caused the discreet graphics card to be used (as seen with GFXcardstatus)
To prevent this, I went into preferences, and disabled "Use hardware acceleration where available" under Advanced>General.
But my problems didn't stop there. Now, it seems Firefox has decided to run plugins such as flash under a separate process called plugin-container in order to protect the browser from plugin crashes. This is a good idea (I believe Chrome and Safari do the same), but even with hardware acceleration disabled in Firefox and Flash, plugin-container still triggered the discreet graphics.
This would actually be acceptable if plugin-container was terminated after I navigated away from the page with the flash content, but this is not what happens. Instead, plugin-container keeps using the high-powered GPU until Firefox is closed.
At this point, I thought that I'd try to force the computer to only use integrated graphics (using gfxcardstatus), but then I discovered another problem:
The plugin-container process was using large amounts of CPU time when flash content was visible in the Firefox window. Typically, viewing just a static flash ad would cause plugin-container to use about 60% (in addition to firefox using about 20%, that means 80% total). Obviously, this was a battery life problem.
After all of this I think I found a temporary workaround, but there are clearly problems here that need to be resolved by the Firefox developers. There are many non tech-savvy users who are no doubt experiencing poor battery life from these problems.
'''My Temporary Solution'''
1. Disable hardware acceleration in Firefox in Advanced > General
2. Disable hardware acceleration in Flash by right clicking a flash element, clicking settings, and then unchecking "enable hardware acceleration"
2. In about:config, search for dom.ipc and set all boolean values that appear to false. This will disable Firefox's plugin-container process for all plugins.
(At this point, if you restart Firefox, Flash will not work at all)
3. Set Firefox to 32-bit mode by getting info on Firefox.app and then checking the "Open in 32-bit mode checkbox"
4. Restart Firefox. Flash should be working with reasonable CPU usage (I had something like 20% with static flash ads as opposed to 80% before), plugin-container will be no more, and your Macbook will no longer switch to discreet graphics for Firefox or Flash.
'''UPDATE:''' It seems that firefox still sometimes causes a switch to discreet graphics for certain flash elements (video players mostly). Also, I've still seen some cases where flash elements are using large amounts of the CPU, even when they are not in the current tab.
I hope this was helpful to somebody, and if anyone has a suggestion for how to make this workaround obsolete or better, please respond.

Ive downgraded from FF4 to 3.6 at this point. The CPU usage is out of control on OS X.

Problems with uVerse DVR connected to a network switch and 1x3 HDMI switch

So that I can connect multiple devices (Apple TV & BluRay player), I've connected my uVerse DVR to a network switch with IP Quality of Service function. Is it known whether or not this will cause problems? I am having problems, but see next question for probable cause. I have also connected my HD TV to a 1x3 HDMI switch output, with inputs from the uVerse DVR, Apple TV, & BluRay player. This clearly has caused problems because the DVR goes through the power on sequence almost everytime the TV is turned on, I have intermittent problems with the HDMI switch displaying video on the TV, and on several occassions, shows scheduled for recording haven't recorded at all or only partially recorded.

I've been having problems with this for months especially with the GigaPower rollout and broke down and decided to resort to some network engineering tactics versus calling out AT&T Techs. The Techs are good at their job but they are only knowledgeable about the hardware aspect but are dumb founded on this one and it's not their job to know. To the point of using a switch next to the DVR and this counts truly for all set top boxes via Ethernet they need to be physically seperated wires. Well, unless you want to pay someone to put an extra Ethernet drop next to each wired set-top box or DVR this isn't feasible so options are deal with it or spend $20 more dollars on a switch that supports 802.1q trunking which makes two 'virtual' independent ethernet cables over one line. If you can do it great otherwise this takes a higher than average knowledge of basic networking. A basic setup would be: + Get two switches - Netgear GS108T or GS108E I've found does the job well. + Enable 802.1q advanced VLANs+ Make two additional vlans 2 and 3 (1 is the native VLAN)+ Mark a port as tagged 'T' for the trunk port to the other switch for VLANS 1,2,3 (I used port 8)+ Assign VLAN 2 and mark as untagged for ports 2-7 - this is for data traffic+ Assign VLAN 3 and mark as untagged for port 8 only - this is for video multi-cast traffic+ ***DISABLE*** MULTI-CAST IGMP SNOPING otherwise IPTV won't work. On the back of the Uvserse router, take an Ethernet wire and plug into port 8 and take an Ethernet cable and plug into port 7. This does not create a loop though sounds like it, we've created two unique layer 2 networks. Now configure the second Netgear switch (or switch of your choosing...) the same exact way but plug your DVR into port '8' and all your data stuff XBox, whatever... into ports 2-7. Whalla, you've eliminating multi-cast flooding and DVR traffic is independent. Ever since I started doing this I increased the speed throughput from 10 MB/s or to never working to a full reliable gigabit speed or respectibly whatever UVerse service you get.

Onkyo SR705 HDMI-DVI switching problem..

I just bought myself an Onkyo SR705 with built in HDMI switching. At first, I thought my monitor having problems with the switch or my mac pro not detecting it. Then i turned on my PS3 and it works. Mac detects the receiver. But no picture comes out if it. Previously, i had a TERK 2-in-1 switch and that works well.
Gateway FPD2275W DVI-HDMI > Onkyo > mac pro HDMI-HDMI with HDMI to DVI adaptor.
what do i need to do with the mac or the setup in general to fix this problem?
my monitor supports 1080i, and supports HDCP.

ill answer my own question.
found out the switch does not support full HD resolutions. Supported Max at 1280x1024 and also 1024x768.. probably my video card doesn't support it either? eh.. for anybody who is wondering why it dont work.
Message was edited by: KwaZyLiLoBoY

Problems with HDMI switching

I am having problems getting HDMI signals to come through on the receiver and TV. If the home theater system has been off for several hours, I am finding that when I use the Harmony 700 remote and select the watch TV option, the TV is displaying 'Weak or No Signal' and the receiver is displaying 'no signal.' I have to turn everything off and back on again up to six times before I can finally watch TV. I have to do the same thing if I want to watch a blu-ray movie.
When I previously had an all HDMI connection (as I do now after the Geek Squad tech changed the setup), I had this problem. I contacted my Cable company and a tech came out and informed me that beacuse of software updates on the boxes, I had to run the HDMI cable from the box direclty to the TV and then had to use red/white RCA cables for the audio. According to the cable tech, this is a standard setup among all cable companies.
I don't know what the problem is with the HDMI signal not getting to the receiver or TV from the blu-ray player, but I used to not have this issue until after the Geek Squad tech changed everything,
I'd like to identify if it's the TV or the receiver that is having problems with the HDMI switching.

cbrookhart wrote:
I am having problems getting HDMI signals to come through on the receiver and TV. If the home theater system has been off for several hours, I am finding that when I use the Harmony 700 remote and select the watch TV option, the TV is displaying 'Weak or No Signal' and the receiver is displaying 'no signal.' I have to turn everything off and back on again up to six times before I can finally watch TV. I have to do the same thing if I want to watch a blu-ray movie.
When I previously had an all HDMI connection (as I do now after the Geek Squad tech changed the setup), I had this problem. I contacted my Cable company and a tech came out and informed me that beacuse of software updates on the boxes, I had to run the HDMI cable from the box direclty to the TV and then had to use red/white RCA cables for the audio. According to the cable tech, this is a standard setup among all cable companies.
I don't know what the problem is with the HDMI signal not getting to the receiver or TV from the blu-ray player, but I used to not have this issue until after the Geek Squad tech changed everything,
I'd like to identify if it's the TV or the receiver that is having problems with the HDMI switching.
The cable tech is wrong.
What kind of reciever is it? There are several recievers that have had issues with their HDMI boards that would cause this. Geek squad may just be a coincidence.

Having problems connecting iMac(late 2006) running 10.7.5 to a Samsung Flat Screen TV using separate audio/speaker cable and HDMI standard cable, mini-DVI to HDMI video converter. TV displays generic Apple galaxy background and "some" windows (e.g. scree

Not sure that I have selected the correct forum. Hope my questions are clearly stated.
Having problems connecting iMac(late 2006) running 10.7.5 to a Samsung Flat Screen TV using separate audio/speaker cable and HDMI standard cable, mini-DVI to HDMI video converter. TV displays generic Apple galaxy background and "some" windows (e.g. screen resolution choices). It does not show Mail or Safari menus. System preferences' display "gathered" the Samsung and chose its resolution. I did not find a way to select the Samsung as my display.
In addition to having old hardware, we have Verizon FIOS providing internet and TV access. Is there any way to make this work for us? We would like to stream video (Netflix) and view shows from the Web. Do we need Apple TV to do this? Or is it not possible with our old iMac? My husband thinks that our Airport could be a factor.
Thank you

Lately, I have been seeing a lot of posts with users trying to use their Macs/iMacs to mirror their streaming video from their Macs to an HDTV.
There are, actually, many alternatives to choose from than just from a Mac.
You need to have or invest in a WiFi capable router for all of these examples.
Apple TV only integrates with WiFi and newer Mac hardware. So, if you want to have total integrated experience, if you have a 2011 Mac or newer, you might as well pay the $100 for the AppleTV box.
If you have a older Mac, like I have noticed many users do, then you have other options.
If you want to elimate long cable clutter and having your Mac at the mercy of your TV all of the time, you can still use the AppleTV box independently or purchase cheaper alternative media streaming boxes from Roku, Sony, Boxee or any number of electronics manufacturers that now have media streaming boxes and media streaming capability built into DVD/Blu-ray players.
These eliminate long cable clutter by being close to the HDTV where shorter, less expensive cables can be used.
Another alternative for iPad users is to use an iPad with the USB/HDMI video adapter and use your iPad as the streaming box. This ties up your iPad in much the same way as it does with your Mac, but again the iPad can be close to the TV and use minimal cables to the TV.
Another alternative to is to use a combination of an iPad and your Mac to stream content that is only available to stream online from a computer. In this case, you can use a desktop remote app on your iPad and Mac. A good and cheap Desktop Remote app is Splashtop Remote. This allows you to completely connect your iPad remotely, over Wifi, to your iMac desktop. The app streams both video and sound to the iPad which is still connected to your HDTV. The resultant stream video picture will be smaller than the size of your HDTV, but it will still be plenty large enough to watch. Again, if you own a iPad and an Intel Mac, this method also allows minimal cabling to the TV.

Macbook Pro Thunderbolt and HDMI displays switch on wake up

Hi there,
Currently using a late 2013 15" Macbook Pro., latest version of Mavericks. I have one display hooked up through Thunderbolt->DVI, with a second set up through HDMI->DVI.
There seems to be an issue where on waking the monitors up from sleep mode (about 10 minutes inactivity time) the displays will turn on, immediately go black (inlcuding the Macbook Pro screen), and then switch such that all windows on one are now on the other.
I can't really repliate this, as it seems to just happen randomly. All I can say in my detective work, is that the HDMI->DVI hooked-up monitor tends to take a little more time to turn on after sleep, whereas the Thunderbolt->DVI monitor comes up immediately.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

I've noticed that the HDMI connection seems to lag the Thunderbolt on wake as well. I haven't had the switching issue, though. I use my Thunderbolt display as the primary (menu bar in the preferences) - maybe try doing that if you're using your HDMI out as the primary.
You can always try resetting the SMC and PRAM as well.

Airport wifi problems with uverse and gigabit switch resolved

I think there is a bug in airport firmware 7.6 with how spanning tree works in addition to problems with the Uverse router. Having an Airport with a uverse 2wire 3801 and gigabit switch will not work. Putting the extreme in NAT mode with DMZ plus behind the uverse resolved the problem.
Network configuration:
Uverse 2wire 3801 router
    3801 provides prioritization for upstream traffic so skype and VoIP work better when doing a lot of stuff on Internet
Airport extreme firmware 7.6
two airport express 802.11n hardwired to extreme. Set up in bridge mode. All access points have same SSID "create a network" to enable roaming. Ignore anything to do with extending a network. firmware 7.6
two gigabit switches
    Netgear GS608 - 8 port gigabit switch
    Trendnet TEG-S80g - 8 port gigabit switch
    100BT 5 port switch - did not figure into problem
Three Uverse set top boxes wired on Ethernet. They have to be wire directly to the 2wire box to work correctly. See: http://forums.att.com/t5/Features-and-How-To/At-amp-t-U-Verse-modem-setup-Airpor t-Extreme/td-p/2300785
However, you need to be careful to place your own PCs and other internet devices on the network created by your gear (airport extreme in your case), but keep AT&T's set top boxes for the IPTV services IN FRONT of your own router - so they remain on AT&T's provided network.
So it would work like this ...
Network 1: 2wire RG (4 lan ports) -> Any Set tops, and to the WAN port on your AirportExtreme
Network 2: Airport Extreme LAN ports -> to any computers or internet devices (but not AT&T set top boxes).
The RG prioritizes the traffic for your Uverse Voice and your Uverse TV ahead of internet data traffic, as it rationalizes data heading out of your home. If you place your own equipment in that equation (like putting AT&T set top boxes behind your Airport Extreme) the performance and function of your AT&T set top boxes could really flake out on you.
Symptom:
    Everything would be working fine, then intermittently all my wifi access points would stop working. ~6,000 ms latency, dropped packets. Ethernet worked fine. Here is an example of my macbook pinging the extreme when associated with the extreme over wifi with a strong signal.
ping: sendto: Host is down
Request timeout for icmp_seq 23
Request timeout for icmp_seq 24
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=25 ttl=255 time=267.051 ms
Request timeout for icmp_seq 26
Request timeout for icmp_seq 27
Request timeout for icmp_seq 28
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=26 ttl=255 time=3402.599 ms
Request timeout for icmp_seq 30
Request timeout for icmp_seq 31
Request timeout for icmp_seq 32
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=30 ttl=255 time=3060.673 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=34 ttl=255 time=24.115 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=35 ttl=255 time=31.056 ms
64 bytes from 192.168.1.64: icmp_seq=36 ttl=255 time=39.828 ms
Root cause:
    It looks like the 2wire 2801 router has a problem with spanning tree when interoperating with gigabit switches and airports. There is interplay with the airport.
I did not have this problem until the 7.6 airport firmware. I had been using the Netgear hub for about a year with the extreme in bridge mode. I added the Trendnet hub and upgraded airport firmware at the same time which made fault isolation difficult.
Problem recreation:
Set up airport expresses hard wired to extreme
Connect gigabit switch anywhere to network
Everything OK
Dettach one computer from wifi then reattach, then all wifi stops working. It takes a few seconds for the problem to propagate.
Ethernet still works fine
Problem Resolution:
Connect to 2wire with ethernet
Set 2wire route to have subnet as 192.168.2.x
Set extreme in NAT mode behind 2wire. It will complain about double NAT. Override the warning. Set the subnet to 192.168.1.x so you don't have to change any static IP addresses. Note that 2wire uses 192.168.1.254 as default route whereas airport uses 192.168.1.1.
I set DHCP to start at .10 to leave the lower addresses for assigning static IP addresses to computers I want to expose outside the firewall.
Go into firewall settings. Select airport extreme. Select the bottom setting which is "DMZ Plus". When you go into the airport extreme settings, you will now see that it has the uverse public IP address on its WAN port. NAT port mappings work fine on the extreme behind the 2wire router.

Keeping this very short here is a summary of the actual problem and solution to allow your Apple Airport Extreme to run in Bridge mode on the same subnet as your uVerse settop boxes (if your Layer 2 switch is configurable).
Devices: Uverse, Cisco SG300, and Airport Extreme
uVerse uses Multicast to broadcast video streams between the uVerse network to the settop box, and from settop box to settop box.
X number of Multicast Groups are created based on X number of settop boxes you have. You can see the multicast definitions by logging into the webinterface of the iNid. Each settop box is a member and can choose to display a broadcasted TV stream or not.
Multicast membership is setup by the use of ICMP messages for IPv4 (MLD for IPv6). Each of the settop boxes become members of each others multicast group by reporting up to the iNid (MultiCast Proxy).
In an ideal world a layer 2 switch will track these memberships and only forward a broadcast packet to the ports on the switch to which the settop boxes are connected to. The switch would do these via snooping on the ICMP packets. Most switches by default do not do this by default and simply forward the broadcast packett out every one of it's switch ports.
Here in lies the problem. Problem is that the Apple AES doesn’t do ICMP snooping / filtering and floods the wireless network with these broadcast streams.
In order to fix this you must turn on ICMP snooping and filtering on the switch (or buy a switch that does this). I have a Cisco SG300 and list out the configuration below.
Other notes:
Ensure that all Media renderers (settop boxes) and servers are wired directly off the switch and not attached to any of the Airport Express ports. This way no media transverses the Airport (only control point traffic goes through the WiFi - which is fine). Obviously if the IGMP snooping switch sees any client requesting Multicast streaming traffic on the same port as the WAP, it will add that Multicast address to the forwarding table for that port, and then, yes it could get flooded.
Remember, you need to allow some Multicast traffic through your WAP to allow UPnP discovery to work (assuming that you will be using Wireless control points.)
Read the Multicast chapter in the SG 300 switch Admin Guide as it explains things very well.
Setting up multicast on the SG300s using the WebUI:
1. Multicast/Properties/
Tick enable Bridge Multicast Filtering Status for VLAN 1, and
set the Forwarding Method to IP Group Address for both IPv4 & IPv6.
2. Multicast/ IGMP snooping/
Tick enable IGMP snooping status then select and edit the entry and ensure that IGMP querier status is ticked.
It's essential for IGMP snooping to work that there must be at least one active IGMP querier on the network - if more than one is enabled, they will carry out an "election" to decide which one should be active (normally the one with the lowest IP address.)
3. Multicast Router Port
Set whichever port that is connected to the uVerse iNid to Status which means that it the uVerse router connected to this port is the Multicast Router
4. Multicast/ Unregistered Multicast
set all ports to Filtering. (The default is Forwarding.)
There are a lot of other variables within all the above - the defaults are OK, you should probably leave them alone!
In the config file you would then expect to see the above appearing as something like this:
ip igmp snooping
ip igmp snooping vlan 1
ip igmp snooping vlan 1 immediate-leave
interface vlan 1
bridge multicast mode ipv4-group
bridge multicast ipv6 mode ip-group
interface range gi1-10
bridge multicast unregistered filtering
ip igmp snooping vlan 1 querier
ip igmp snooping vlan 1 querier address <IP-Addr>

HDMI and Component Switching?

Hello all.
I have an issue with my AppleTV that I'm unable to use HDMI or DVI (with a DVI convertor dongle). Usually with my Plasma TV I use a component cable, this worked fine, but now I've swapped my Plasma for a version with HDMI (and no component) and I can't get any video output using HDMI. I can't remember if there was a setting on the AppleTV to set the display type to composite or HDMI outputs. My AppleTV was upgraded to Take 2 before I changed TV sets.
1) Is there a setting within the Apple TV menus to switch between component and HDMI?
2) Is there a special key-press on the remote control to reset video settings? (as I don't have any way to view the video output at the moment)
thanks in advance.

There's no way of switching between component and HDMI manually (HDMI will always take precedent over component), there is however a way to switch resolution which likely isn't but could be an issue I suppose.
You can cycle through video modes by holding down the 'menu' and '+' buttons on the remote for 6 seconds. (then to cycle use the '+' and '-')
Message was edited by: Winston Churchill

Problems between a Wireless Controller and a Switch.

I have a Wireless Controller 4402 connected to one sw2960G.
I configured the controller with LAG and the switch (sw2960G) with etherchanel.
I connected the controller 2 distribution ports to the 2 ports of the switch (configured with etherchanel).
It worked like it should work.
But the problem is like this: if I take one cable that is connected to the switch and unplugged that cable from the switch (if that cable is the one connected to controllers port one) I have connectivity between both machines.
If I plug in the switch the cable connected to controller port one and take the other cable and unplugged that cable from the switch I stop the connectivity between the two machines.
I think that was not supposed to happenâ¦ because the LAG in the controller should put every AP in the second controller's port, and the connectivity between the machines should not end.
Can any one help me?
Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong?
Thanks in advance,
Rui

With LAG enabled in the controller I think I can have only one ap-manager interface.
The LAG will (it is supposed to) do the load balance automatically.
I mean, if one of the interfaces is âdownâ the other will have to coupe with all the AP's.
I should have always connection between the controller and the switch.
The STP of the controller is configured by default (STP Mode = OFF).
In the case of etherchannel load balanceâ¦ I saw the Cisco documentation and I did not saw any thing about that. I think that The LAG as to do that for the controllerâ¦ I'm right about that?
I will see the link that you advisedâ¦
Can you help me?
Thanks,
Rui

I have an ipod nano 5th generation. the problem with it's that it doesn't show in itunes when connected to the laptop and it switches on on its own and songs start playing the battery gets consumed too fast after full charge. what is the actual problem?

i have an ipod nano 5th generation. the problem with it's that it doesn't show in itunes when connected to the laptop and it switches on on its own and songs start playing the battery gets consumed too fast after full charge. what is the actual problem?

What have you tried so far in terms of troubleshooting this issue? Are you plugging the iPod into a high powered USB 2.0 port on the back of your PC? Have you tried a different USB cable?
What happens if you try to reset the device with it still connected to the PC?
How to reset iPod
Has this iPod ever worked on this PC or is this the first time you have time you have tried connecting it?
Have you carefully worked through each and every single suggestion in this Apple support document?
iPod not recognized in 'My Computer' and in iTunes for Windows
B-rock

Tough Problem: This action cannot be completed because the other program is busy. Choose 'Switch To' to activate the busy program and correct the problem

Please, please help us!
We have an intermitant problem which is badly affecting a group of our users. Can anyone help identify what SERVER this message is talking about???
Details: CF-19 Panasonic Tough Book, McAfee Enterprise 8.7i, Windows XP 2005 Tablet Ed. SP3.
Problem at login intermittantly we get a unmanagable/unresponsive window stating the following:
Window Name: Server Busy
Text: This action cannot be completed because the other program is busy. Choose ‘Switch To’ to activate the busy program and correct the problem
Buttons: Switch To, Retry, Cancel (Grayed out)
Event Viewer Message:
Source: DCOM, Type Error,
Description: The server
{D6E88812-F325-4DC1-BBC7-23076618E58D} plus others with {6B19643A-0CD7-4563-B710-BDC191FCAD3B} did not register
with DCOM within the required timeout.
I searched the registry for {D63.....} and found keys relating to "TCServer.exe" Little info available. But found
((KB895953 - Memory Leak in Windows XP Tablet PC Edition )) but this seems related to a pre SP3 update.... we have SP3 installed can I still install this patch?
I searched {6B1....} and found keys relating to "TSFManager". Again little information available.
How can I identify the servers with the long {XXXXXXXXX} keys, and what is tcserver.exe?
Please help,
Tony Heslington.

Hi,
If the problematic XP PC is in a domain, please provide us more information on it, such as how many DCs, member servers and the OS versions. Does the error only
occur on one XP PC? Does the issue occur when logging on as some certain users? When did the issue begin to occur? Have you installed software, hardware or updates recently?
Please check whether the error occurs in Clean Boot mode.
1. Click "Start", go to "Run", and type "msconfig" in the open box to start the System Configuration Utility.
2. Click the "Services" tab, check the "Hide All Microsoft Services" box and click Disable All (if it is not gray).
3. Click the "Startup" tab, click "Disable All" and click "OK".
4. Restart your computer. If the "System Configuration Utility" window appears, please check the box and click "OK".
What is the result? For further assistance, please help gather the following information for research:
Event log
=========
1. Click "Start", click “Run”, input "eventvwr" and press Enter.
2. Expand the "Windows Logs" node on the left pane, right-click on "Application" and click "Save All Events As"; in the pop-up window, click to choose the Desktop
icon on the left frame, input "app" in the "File name" blank, and then click save.
3. Right click on "System", with the same method, save it as "sys".
4. Locate the two saved log files on the Desktop and send them to us.
Collect HiJackThis log
==============
1. Please download HijackThis from the following link:
http://www.techspot.com/download317.html
HijackThis is a tool to collect some system settings information which is useful for further troubleshooting.
Please Note: The third-party products discussed here are manufactured by vendors independent of Microsoft. We make no warranty, implied or otherwise, regarding
these products' performance or reliability.
2. Right click the downloaded “HJTInstall.exe” file and choose "Run as administrator".
Provide administrator password or click “Allow” if you are prompted to do so.
3. Click the "Do a system scan and save a logfile" Button.
4. A Notepad window will appear, please click “File”, “Save As...” to save it as HJT.log (or other file name you like) on the Desktop
and sent it to us.
Upload these file to the following workspace.
You can upload the information files to the following link.
(Please choose "Send Files to Microsoft")
Workspace URL: (https://sftus.one.microsoft.com/choosetransfer.aspx?key=900ac54d-301d-42da-876d-4546dc81a342)
Password: Y^dh$J1KR2u%UKL
Note: Due to differences in text formatting with various email clients, the workspace link above may appear to be broken. Please be sure to include all text
between '(' and ')' when typing or copying the workspace link into your browser. Meanwhile, please note that files uploaded for more than 72 hours will be deleted automatically. Please ensure to notify me timely after you have uploaded the files. Thank you
for your understanding.
Thanks.
Nina
This posting is provided "AS IS" with no warranties, and confers no rights.

50L2400U and HDMI Switch Problem

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for