A few questions before installing xp

which of the two version goes best with macbook... media center or pro?
will boot camp allow me to install a non genuine copy?
how much space should i give to it? i only intend to keep it for any urgent need in scenarios where i would need to run a windows based application. for everything else, mac.
does installing windows void the warranty?
what about the drivers?
will xp be able to access my mac partiton for pics, videos and movies?

which of the two version goes best with macbook... media center or pro?
Your choice on that one. Both versions work equally as well.
will boot camp allow me to install a non genuine copy?
Boot Camp requires a licensed copy of windows as indicated [HERE|http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=Mac/10.5/en/11889.html]. Some have tried to circumnavigate this requirement however most of them have run into issues during and after installation.
how much space should i give to it? i only intend to keep it for any urgent need in scenarios where i would need to run a windows based application. for everything else, mac.
My recommendation is at least 32BG partition. This will allow for enough space for future use. A partition too small may be an issue in the future. At this time, there is no easy/straight way of increasing the partition space without starting the Boot Camp procedure all over again.
does installing windows void the warranty?
No
what about the drivers?
Windows drivers are on the Leopard installation disk.
will xp be able to access my mac partiton for pics, videos and movies?
Mac partition NO because it is formatted in OSx HFS. It won't even see your OSx partition. The way around this is to have another drive/partition formatted in Windows FAT32 format. This will allow both OSx and Windows to read/write on it.
Axel F.

Similar Messages

A Few Questions Before Installing Windows 7 in Boot Camp...

1. New Mac Pro compatible with both 32 and 64 bit Windows 7?
2. What is the minimum safe amount of space needed on the boot camp drive partition to Windows 7 to operate with no issues?
3. If one no longer needs the boot camp partition nor windows can one reset things back to factory specs with only the Mac OS on the drive and recover the full drive space like new?
4. Any good video tutorials out their on installing Windows 7 with boot camp?
5. This is a big concern for me, lots of complaints the the nVidia drivers in windows are not up to date and this has caused a blank screen to come up. Has this video driver issue been resolved?

you say Mac Pro, well that means you can put Windows on its own drive, and that you will need to use ATI drivers directly.
not knowing what your needs are maybe a VM is enough.
too general to say how large and that can be based in part on amount of RAM installed, programs, data. And with 1TB costing $90 does 25GB vs 50GB vs something else? I mean $10 for 100GB is getting cheap.
If you intend to buy a Mac Pro then obviously you want 64-bit, and if it is single cpu you don't need Windows 7 Pro.

A FEW QUESTIONS BEFORE MY MBP ARRIVES

Hi,
I finally ordered my Mac yesterday. It's obviously a MacBook Pro and I have a few questions before it arrives.
First of all, I want to install Boot Camp, and to do so, I must have the latest firmware. How do I find out if I have the latest firmware?
Also, how much hardrive should I give Windows? I was thinking 80GB = MAC OSX, 20GB = WINDOWS XP.
Obviously my last question, since I plan on only using Windows for games, how does it play? I have read a few reviews and some benchmarks but all the results are different. I also like to know if it would be worth clocking the GPU back to stock speed since it's obviously underclocked.

This document and embedded links will explain the firmware issues, latest updates, etc. Since each model of the Intel Mac is slightly different, not all firmware updates are the same. Review the document and then check what update version you have on the computer when it arrives. Go to: Apple menu, select “About this Mac/More info… and look at “Boot ROM version.
Anyway, this is what I can offer since I don’t use Boot Camp although I would recommend that your use your new Mac for a while before installing it. By doing so, you can validate your system’s integrity.
Ref: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303364
Regards,
MBP-15" / 2.16 / W8612... Mac OS X (10.4.6) G4 Tower (OS 9/10), Dell 620 WorkStation (XP Pro), Gateway P4 (XP Home)

Few Questions Before I Buy!

I want to buy this laptop in future for university but have a few questions before hand. Can you change the video card like on a regular computer or is that not on option? When I buy the laptop it comes with the current OSX, but when Leopard comes out how much will it cost to upgrade or is it free? Which Ram memory is suggested for installing after purchase? And finaly, Does BootCamp run effectively on this Machine. Thanks in Advanced.

Can you change the video card like on a regular computer or is that not on option?
The GPU cannot be changed.
When I buy the laptop it comes with the current OSX, but when Leopard comes out how much will it cost to upgrade or is it free?
The cost to upgrade has been $US129 in the past. Whether it stays the same for Leopard is unknown although it shouldn't be too different to that.
Which Ram memory is suggested for installing after purchase?
For simplicity you might want to think about buying the RAM from Apple. However, if you want to go 3rd party there's aplenty of choices such as Crucial, Kingston, Samsung etc. Just be sure to buy RAM that has been explicitly tested in an MBP (it'll say so).
And finaly, Does BootCamp run effectively on this Machine.
Very.

A few questions before buying a spectre x360

Hi I'm considering buying a 13" Spextre x360 once Win10 arrives in final version - but have a few questions before going ahead. Mostly looking into the 4041no (i'm from Denmark) - or similar configuration. I need a configuration with at least 500 GB of hard drive and 8 GBs of RAM. 1. Will the spectre support all the new windows 10 touchpad gestures (similar to OS X/Mac gestures)? I have read something about the touch pad on the not being a "precision touchpad" but instead being run by synoptic drivers or something. Don't know exactly what it means. I come from a Mocbook Pro - and these gestures are so good. 2. One of the things some talk about in reviews is heat - that the x360 gets very hot to hold. Even just browsing the web. And also fan noise being loud. Any experience here - is it just a few unfortunate buyers, or are any of these issues generic. 3. Browsing the web there are so many different model numbers, that i can't keep up - and some of them seem to be identical configurations. Is there any overview of what is what. For instance 4041no and 4040no seem identical - but there is a difference in price, at the stores i have seen online. Similarly there is a 4030no and a 4032no. What are all these models. different numbers for every store/country/????. Any help here.. 4. The 4041no model i'm looking into has this QHD screen. Very high resolution. How is that in everyday life for surfing the web (mostly Chrome), Photoshop, watching movies local/streaming and more. It seems that everything will be very small, or is there scaling options or other stuff that makes this high resolution usable in real life. Or maybe lower the resoltion in settings. Any experience? I will soon try to find one in a real store to try out if possible. Think i'll start with those questions :-) And maybe also some generel feedback on the spectre x360. Thanks /Jonas

Hi Jonas,
I have the 4014 model (core i7, 256gb ssd, 8gb ram and FHD screen) so I can answer some but not all of your questions.
1. Touchpad is responsive and easy to use for me. Just upgraded to windows 10 and multi touch gestures are working fine. Three finger tap to open search, four finger tap to open the quick settings panel. Three finger flicks do app switching and minimising. The pad is controlled by the synaptic driver, but it has quite a few options and seems to work well for me.
2. Heat is not an issue for me. Sure, it gets warm when running intensive tasks, but as long as you are not pushing the cpu for long periods of time, it will be fine on your lap. Browsing the web, the fan will come on briefly when I load 10 or more tabs at a time, otherwise the fan will remain off.
Being an aluminium chassis, it has the ability to transfer heat out of the shell more easily than a plastic laptop, so you might notice it getting warm quicker, but it also cools down fast.
The fan is no louder than any other laptop I have used.
3. Can't help you with model numbers, sorry.
4. I'm finding that a lot of applications do not scale correctly on my FHD screen, so I can imagine that the QHD would be the same or worse. Most of the time, you can get the applications to look better by turning off display scaling in the compatibility settings. Sometimes this means that the application then looks smaller on screen, though text, images and icons are sharp, they are harder to read. The QHD would make these apps even smaller. I do not think QHD is worth it on a small screen for this reason.
In general the laptop works well. I use it in my job as a teacher, and being able to convert from laptop to tablet is a huge benefit. It is super fast to start up and easily gets me through a school day (quite often getting home with more than half a charge). I will just close the lid between uses and it sleeps, drawing very little power. It is capable of running Photoshop and office apps, while browsing the web and doing some light duty CAD modeling on the side.
One small issue that I and a few others have had is a crackling, buzzing noise due to the processor power regulation. Only audible in really quiet rooms or when putting an ear close to the device, when the computer is idling. Not an issue for everyday use, but something to be aware of if you have sensitive hearing or are annoyed by slight imperfections.
Hope that answers a few of your questions.

A few questions before I buy a new iMac/Mac mini and sign up for Creative Cloud.

Hello Everyone,
I am looking to purchase a new Apple computer and sign up for Creative Cloud within the next week and I have a few questions that should be answered before I proceed.
My wife and I own a business and we will be using the CS6 apps to create brochures, Constant Contact mailings, product package inserts, edit product photography for print and web use, and short HD how-to videos. We are not graphics professionals or power users and wont be doing anything too complicated.
Any help and answers will be greatly appreciated.
I will start with the hardware questions first:
I am trying to decide between the iMac and the Mac mini.
The iMac is a 2.7Ghz Quad-core Intel core i5 and comes with 4GB of memory that is expandable to 16GB, which I will do for sure. It comes with a Radeon HD 6770M graphics card with 512MB of GDDR5 memory(not upgradable), and a 1TB HDD that runs at 7200RPM. This unit meets the specs required.
The 2.5Ghz Mac Mini comes with 4GB of memory that is expandable to 8GB, I will also do this. It has a Radeon HD 6630M graphics card with 256MB of GDDR5 memory(not upgradable), and a 500GB HDD that runs at 5400RPM. This unit meets all the spec(I think) except for the speed of the HDD.
Question: Will the mini run the software without too much of an issue considering the speed of the HDD?
Question: Will the iMac run the software significantly better to justify the price difference?
I already have 1 mini(purchased 4 months ago, with the same specs listed above) and will be purchasing a second computer for my wifes desk. If the mini will run CS6 fine, that is great and we can save a few bucks. If my mini will not run CS6 well, I will get the iMac for her desk as she will be doing the bulk of the work in that regard anyway.
Now a couple of software questions.
After reading hundreds of reviews and forum posts over the last few days I have seen many people having this or that issue. It seems to me that most of the issues are because of upgrades from Lion to Mountian Lion after installing CS6 first or trying to open CS3,4,5 files in CS6.
If you want to know what issues have me concerned take a look at just this one forum:
http://blogs.adobe.com/jnack/2012/07/adobe-cs-apps-mountain-lion-no-known-issues.html
Similar issues are discussed in the Apple forums as well as many other places around the web.
I am not a computer professional but I know enough to maintain my systems and keep them running smoothly.
We do not have any Adobe software installed on my mini and will not be opening any files from previous versions of Adobe product in the new CS6 software. These will be a clean installs on pristine systems running fully updated Mountian Lion OS's on both machines and creating new files from scratch.
Question: Should I be expecting any issues like the ones I have read in the forums and blogs or are these just the normal things that happen when upgrading to new software with multiple hardware configurations?
My feeling is that we will not be having too much of a problem due to the clean installs and no files from previous versions.
Next up, the Creative Cloud(CC) FAQ states that you can install on 2 machines but can't open stuff at the same time.
Question: Does this mean we can't be using any CS6 apps at the same time or just not using the same app at the same time?
Example: PS and PS on both machines at same time = No, PS on one and Dreamweaver on the other at the same time=Yes?
The CC FAQ page says Adobe will add Lightroom 4 later in 2012 while the main CC page lists it as available now.
Question: Which is true?
My mini is registered to me, with my name, iTunes account, Apple ID etc.
Question: Do I need to do the initial set-up of the new machine with all my information to ensure the CS6 suite works on both machines? Do the computers need to be registered(as far as Apple configuration is concerned) to same person for them to work on one CC account or can I install CS6 on any 2 machines regardless of how they were initially set-up?
This may seem like a silly question but I want to avoid any problems before they happen.
Well, those are all of my questions at the moment. To anyone who made it this far in my looooong post, Thank You so much for your time. I appreciate your expertise and knowledge and hope that you can help me make this decision.
Cheers,
Alex Bogdan

Alex,
I'll try and answer your questions as best I can.
Qn 1 Which Mac.
Ans:- As I understand it both units will run Adobe CS6.
          Which one really depends on what you wand from CS6. If you are looking for high end demand and performance, then I would go for the IMac
          Your Specs for the Imac are right. However if you buy your IMac straight from Apple there are even higher specs.
          You can get:-
                              3.4 GHz i7 processor rather than the i5
                               2GB video card as opposed to a 1Gb video card.
                               Of course such a model will cost you more.
          In the end it is needs compared with money to spend. That is only a decision you cam make.
Q2:- Will the higher cost for the Imac justify copst.
Ans:- Again it depends on what demands you intend to make on the hardware and software.
          But I note you have a business and if that businees expects to high demand and high speedy performance then I suspect the Imac would be more able to provide your needs.
          Again only you will know the answer to that.
Q3:- Questions about CS6 reliability
Ans:- I have been with Adobe for way over 10 years.
         Speaking, only for myself, it is the most reliable software on the market.
          It is true that if you look down this form, like any other and I am thinking about the Apple discussions forum, you will find numerous instances of problems.
          Again this is only my opinion, but although all these problems are real for the individuals:-
          First it is not clear why they have the problem e.g. what have they done or not done.
          Second, they are in the minority of the total users using the hardware / software.
          The only problem I am aware of with CS6 is Acrobat X. I understand it has been sorted Adobe, however it cost me so much work I have removed it from my system and reverted to Acrobat 9
          So what I am saying is that there are only two comapnies I rely 100% on: They are Adobe and Apple.
         So if you are happy with my opinion I would not worry about Adobe CS6
Qn 4:- CS6 0n 2 machines.
Ans:- Yes you will not be able to run the same program similtaneosly.
           I believe, if it is important that you do run the same program together, that you can acquire a further licience from Adobe to do that.
           You would need to contact Adobe about that.
Qn 5:- Lightroom 4
Ans:- Lightroom is now available as part of Creative Cloud.
Qn 6:- Set up for individual machines
Ans:- I do not believe you do. Once you have set up your Creative Cloud account you go to the apps site and download the apps for each machine.
          Each machine downloads the apps and your machine and the apps are registered by Adobe.
         Here is something that you may want to know:-
          Because I was so unhappy loosing all the Acrobat data with Acrobat X I ended up deleting Acrobat X
          However as far as Creative Cloud is concered Acrobat X is still on my machine.
          It is not a problem for me because I am happy with Acrobat 9, it fullfils my needs and has not crashed and lost me all my bookmarks.
          However here is the point:-
          Adobe, when there was a problem with Acrobat X requested that no-one deletes the application.
         Though I do not know for certain I believe registration of the apps you have with Creative Cloud are registered with Creative Cloud in their database. Therefore were you to delete an app, it will still be registered with Creative Cloud and you will not be able to download a further copy even though the app is no longer on your    machine.
          Therefore it maybe not a good idea to delete an app when you no longer have a use for it. If you want it back I suspect you will have to contact Adobe Support
Personal Comment:-
          It is true many unfortunately have had all sorts of problems, including me with Acrobat X.
          That said, Creative Cloud in my view has been a major advance in how Adobe delivers software. I have no regrets with signing up to Creative Cloud and I expect to remain with it.
Hope all of that goes some way to answering your questions.

A few questions re: installing 10g on a virtual linux machine

I am in the process of building up a virtual linux box on my XP laptop and have a few questions regarding the networking setup. Purpose is to have a sandbox *nix setup at my fingertips.
Here's what I have so far:
Dell Latitude laptop running Win XP. This is a DHCP machine.
Installed VMWare Player
Created virtual machine with OEL 4.8, with NAT network config
So far, so good. Next step is to install 10.2.0.4 EE on the virtual Linux machine. When installing 10.2.0.4 directly on the XP system, of course I had to install a loopback adapter to provide a fixed IP address for Oracle, all well documented in the installation guide. While it is my understanding that the loopback adapter, as installed and configured on Windows, is primarily a Windows issue, I would expect something of the same fundamental under Linux insomuch as it is still a dhcp machine. However, when checking the relevant installation guide, the section on networking considerations and DHCP simply gave a two-paragraph discussion of what DHCP was. I found no discussion on how to deal with it in a *nix environment.
This particular vmware setup gives me a choice of 3 network configs - Bridged , NAT, or host-only (private vitrual net shared only with the host) I am currently configured to use NAT because I need outside connectivity (to yum server, etc) but do not want an additional device (ip address) on the real network. I'm guessing I could use host-only most of the time and when I need to access the internet, shut down the db and switch back to NAT.
This is all new territory for me, so I guess I'm looking at some 'best practices' advice as much as anything.

Ed,
I would encourage going for OEL 5u2 or 5u3 and including the oracle-validated package. It makes sure you have all the prerequisites for 10gR2 and makes life much easier.
I set up dozens of these machines for Oracle U classes. What I started with originally is 2 virtual NIC - a NAT and a Bridged. The Bridged allowed me to access the outside world at any time and was assigned using DHCP from the local network. The NAT I'd configure manually as a static IP, and I used it primarily to provide a second 'virtual network' so the classroom machines could communicate with each other.
In my latest iteration, I've dropped back to a single Bridged NIC based on DHCP. For Oracle install purposes, I
- pick a hostname (myhost.oraclass.com)
- switch to static IP (I've scripted it - edits /etc/sysconfig/network-scripts/ifcfg-eth0 and /etc/syscfg/network : hostname) but using the network GUI tool is ok as well
- I choose the static to macth the DHCP address assigned
- inject a single line into the /etc/hosts with the new static address, the hostname, and a hostname that I want to publish
192.168.4.21 myhost.oraclass.com orahost student21.oraclass.com student21
- set a global env variable (/etc/profile.d/oraprofile.sh (export HOSTNAME=myhost.oraclass.com)
and after installing Oracle, I switch back to DHCP. Then if I want to travel, I can easily switch the 'static' address as often as I want (also scripted) to match the IP addr the 'host DHCP' provides.
I've used the NAT. It hands out a DHCP address and usually it works for me (and Oracle) simply by making it static (as above) and letting VMWare container handle it. But every once in a while it seems to 'jam up' and I'd need to fight with it. So I've converted to bridged .. with the help of some scripts I've written.

Few Questions Before Getting Leopard

I want to install leopard but i have a few questions:
1. If i install it will it overwrite everything on my mac like documents, movies, pictures etc.
2. What will happen to my bookmarks, cookies etc.
3. Do i have to reinstall all my apps?

Hello! The biggest factor in an upgrade is making SURE BEFOREHAND that all your system tweaks and apps are Leopard ready. Most of the disaster stories are from those who blindly upgraded without checking their apps and haxies. The pref pane "Application Enhancer" usually resulted in an inoperable system so check it out for sure because many folks have forgotten that they installed it years ago. Tom

A few questions before I buy the 13" air.

I need to buy a laptop within the next week so I have a few questions about the air.
Does the 13inch i5 version support hyperthreading to 4 cores and turbo boost?
Is the difference in performance between the i5 and i7 worth it?
Would the air be good enough to use word/PowerPoint with a lot of tabs open in chrome with no lag? (School laptop)
Am I better off getting a 13inch BBP? Or is the air the same performance wise? (I don't need the DVD drive or ethernet)

All the intel chips have the turbo boost. No MacBook Airs have quad core chips. They are only duo core. You need the pro book for the quad cores. As a school laptop the air is great because of the SSD. It opens quickly after moving while studying here and there. You can buy a pro book then eventually put a SSD in it if that is what you are looking for. But because apple makes all of their parts and software, you do not need as big of a cpu as you would need on a PC.

A few questions before I buy Logic Pro (also anyone use M-Audio Ozone w/it?

Hello. I just bought a mac (my first one). I plan on getting Logic Pro, but have a few questions.
-Do I need an audio interface to use the program?
-Does anyone use the M-Audio Ozone with Logic? If so, do you recommend it? I know USB isn't as fast as Firewire
-If the Ozone isn't a good audio interface, which M-Audio interface do you recommend? (i might be using Protools M-Powered as well so that's why I want M-Audio)
-Is there a plugin similar to McDSP Filterbank for Logic?
I won't have too much hardware so I don't need too many ins/outs.
Thanks

Ok well do you have a piano? If you take courses you probably need a full piano unless you only want to do synths and pop music, the Ozone will not do. Do take this into consideration, 25 keys is very very small. The cheapest best piano IMHO is the Yamaha P60; piano playing needs weighted keys.
The audio interface converts analog sound to digital and transfers it to the computer. The latency comes from the transport (firewire, usb, IDE), from the computer (software, operating system and drivers) and from the analog/digital conversion. The audio interface also does the reverse, it provides many outputs for speakers and headphones. It can also optionaly provide MIDI I/O.
There are MIDI only input/outputs too, which allow you to plug in any MIDI device, such as a Yamaha P60 piano for instance.
The controller is usually a piano like device (some aren't, they provide only buttons) that sends MIDI information to other MIDI devices (like Logic, via the computer's MIDI I/O). Synths can act as MIDI controllers but provide much more (such as the ability to generate sound).
The Ozone is both, it displays itself as a MIDI controller through it's keyboard and 8 control knobs, as well as an audio interface with 2 inputs and 1 output. That's why it's good at what it does, it's cheap and compact and does all basic IO. But if you won't record anything, a normal MIDI controller is enough. But if you have monitors, maybe the output from the Mac isn't good enough. In terms of sonic quality the Ozone is okay.

Few questions before buying a GPS receiver

Hello everyone,
I have nokia E63 and I have few questions about the Maps feature:
1. Is it free or do I have to subscribe to Maps?
2. How can I tell if my there are maps available for my country?
3. Does any bluetooth GPS receiver work, or do I have to buy something specific?
4. After I buy a GPS receiver, do I have to pay something for my cellular company? or GPS + Maps is enough?
Thanks in advance!
Koby

Hi kobyaizer
1) Determining your position or planning a route is free, but you have to pay extra for voice guided navigation although a free trial is offered pricing available here:http://europe.nokia.com/A41441532
2) Regional maps here:http://europe.nokia.com/explore-services/maps/download/nokia-map-loader
3) Any Bluetooth external GPS should suffice.
4) Bear in mind two processes at work, Nokia Maps application in which you can set "go-online at start up" to "No" and "Assisted GPS" which can be disabled if you are using an external GPS as would be superfluous and in this scenario you do not have to pay anything. Assisted GPS if enabled downloads 2-5 kb's of data for a positional fix which without a data plan can cost about 0.07GBP in UK.
If you require any further information then please ask.
Happy to have helped forum in a small way with a Support Ratio = 37.0

A few questions before proceeding to uninstall/reinstall Mountain Lion

Since I'm new to this forum I inadvertently closed the discussion that I initiated myself without it being resolved, so I'll copy what I had asked in the previous discussion over to a new thread:
23-Oct-2012 16:08 (in response to ds store)
Since yesterday I've done this:
Safe boot
smc reset
pram reset
hardware test looped 5 times off of original discs: no trouble
check battery: good condition
reinstalled flash with click for flash in Safari, updated Firefox to 16
Startup Manager: Volumes are Mac hd and recovery 10.8.1: did repair disk and permissions repair
Onyx: did everything and rebooted. There was trouble with epson permissions that was fixed and still recurred, went to users and deleted printers and then went to epson and downloaded uninstall from July 2012 and removed with that anything that was there
Still crashes though, so I thought I would do this, I'm nervous about it though:
command r boot off Recovery HD partition and Disk Utility Erase with Security Option: Zero the OS X drive/partition. Check under Partition: Options: GUID and Format: OS X Extended Journaled and apply if not already set.
Quit and install 10.6 or 107+ from Apple's servers.
Reboot, use the same user name as before (different password advised)
quit and install 10.6 or 107, what is 107? does this mean 10.8? I'm confused by that
so I must write down the user name, not the owner name, both of which I changed
I also before had created a new user and deleted my friends user accounts, so that was done already but didn't help.
when you say different password advised, you mean change that later in users?
When adobe asks for id are they asking for my id that I created to get to this forum or my user name and computer password or the computer name and password?
I'm ready to do this once I get things ironed out.....I'm afraid something awful will happen....but I guess I've done what I can for the most part otherwise.
Thank you for your help, it's been great!
23-Oct-2012 16:28 (in response to ds store)
I also did try to command r and reinstall mountain lion but when I entered my adobe id they said that it has not been used in the app store.....
so I'm not sure where that leads, whether entering my friends id and password might have lead to a free reinstall or even how to get any reinstall,
however I'm happier with the idea of a fresh restart...but worried I won''t be allowed to or run into a message like that ....or it will cost a huge amount
but you say I believe that it is quite simple and free?
23-Oct-2012 16:31 (in response to ds store)
"quit and install from apple servers"
is this something that happens within the program without rebooting? Is the "install from apple servers"given as a prompt after you select the "quit" button?
23-Oct-2012 16:42 (in response to ds store)
Do I need to download and install this?
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1492
I have noticed that somethings have improved with all these changes, I continue to delete programs that seem outdated and unneccesary, however there still seems to be lots of crashes, and a clean install deleting everything and starting again with mountain lion is what I'd like to do once I get these final things sorted out.
Thank you

No, please don't do that. Here's how you do one or the other:
Downgrade Lion/Mountain Lion to Snow Leopard
1. Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer Disc. After the installer
      loads select your language and click on the Continue
      button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the
      Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the
      mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status
      of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then
      the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART
      info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on
      the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions
      from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS
      Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the
      partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Click on
      the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Quit DU and return to the installer. Install Snow Leopard.
This will erase the whole drive so be sure to backup your files if you don't have a backup already. If you have performed a TM backup using Lion be aware that you cannot restore from that backup in Snow Leopard (see below.) I suggest you make a separate backup using Carbon Copy Cloner.
If you have Snow Leopard Time Machine backups, do a full system restore per #14 in Time Machine - Frequently Asked Questions. If you have subsequent backups from Lion, you can restore newer items selectively, via the "Star Wars" display, per #15 there, but be careful; some Snow Leopard apps may not work with the Lion files.
Reinstalling Lion/Mountain Lion Without Erasing the Drive
Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Continue button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.
Install or Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion from Scratch
Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive because the following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.
Boot to the Recovery HD:
Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alternatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
Erase the hard drive:
1. Select Disk Utility from the main menu and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your startup volume (usually Macintosh HD) from the left side list. Click on
      the Erase tab in the DU main window.
3. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Optionally, click on the Security button and set the Zero
        Data option to one-pass. Click on the Erase button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Quit DU and return to the main menu.
Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion/Mountain Lion and click on the Install button.
Note: You will need an active Internet connection. I suggest using Ethernet if possible because it is three times faster than wireless.

Question before installing

I currently am running 10.4.11, and I just bought Leopard today.
My concern/question is concerning CS2, and what will happen once I install Leopard. I was given CS2 by a teacher of mine on my laptop so I could do layout for my school newspaper, but I am no longer involved in that class, so I don't have the installation disks anymore.
Will I have to re-enter the registration numbers? Is there any way that I can keep CS2 and still install Leopard?
Thank you for your advice in advance.

I can't address the C2 issue since I don't use those items. However, since you're no longer associated with that work, bite the bullet and buy the latest Adobe things if you really need them.
However, before you proceed, get a bootable, external HD (preferably FireWire), and make a bootable backup/clone before upgrading and ensure that it's bootable and works like the original. That allows you to revert to the previous good state without having to reinstall anything. See these for details:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106941
http://www.macmaps.com/upgradefaq.html
http://www.macmaps.com/backup.html
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/installswupdates.html
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/backuprecovery.html
Once that's accomplished, see these for various installation options:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5757385
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5666369
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=5646414

Quick few questions before I take my iPhone to Europe..

Hey everyone, sorry if this is redundant. I've searched the forums to find most all of my answers, but I still have a remaining few that hopefully someone can help me out with here...
I'm leaving for Europe on Monday. I'll be there for 11 days and will be in Ireland and France. I plan on activating the World Traveler $5.99 option in order to get charged .99 cents a minute rather than $1.29.
I basically want to use the phone for emergency purposes, and use the wifi for internet, email, etc.
I also plan on turning my International Data Roaming OFF in order to avoid Edge activating and me seeing high charges on my next bill.
I want to still be able to use my iPhone for a phone if I need it, as well as the wifi for internet,e-mail,etc.
My question is, will I still be charged for SMS text messaging while in Europe? I have an unlimited plan now and have heard both that I will be charged .50 for each message I send or receive, while also hearing they're free to receive, but .50 to send. I'd like some clarification on this, and if I get charged either way (send or receive), is there anyway I can disable text messaging for a while?
Also, am I charged for voicemail and missed calls?
These two things have been hard to get a sure answer on.
I think that covers it, if there's anything else I'm forgetting in order to avoid the $3000 dollar bills, please let me know.

I would make sure, that Voicemail is disabled.
In Europe other phone companies and networks will be involved (to make sure you are covered) so they will charge At&T for their service. This will come back to you, I guess. As Voicemail is actually a diverted call (in Europe this would mean for you international diversion) I would make sure this diversion is disabled (in your AT&T Network) before you leave to Europe.
2nd possibility: Switch your phone in Europe strictly to Airplane mode. Only leave this mode, when you want to make a call, check your SMS text messages or want to use WIFI. After that: back to Airplane mode. You should avoid surprises this way.
Generally speaking in Europe receiving of SMS text messages is free, but sending the network company you are in will charge your provider (At&T) for their sevice, so this will probably also come back to you. You will have to communicate with AT&T about this, I am afraid.

I am planning on buying Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5 ASAP but had a few questions before doing so.

Any help would be appreciated, as I could not find anywhere to contact the company to ask questions regarding Lightroom.
1. All of my photos (jpeg files) are on my computer hard drive and an external hard drive. Can they be easily imported into Lightroom?
2. A. After they are imported, do the photos remain in the original location as well (external hard drive/ hard drive)? B. If so, do they therefore take up twice the space on my PC?
3. Can I import jpeg images directly from my camera (or only raw files?)
4. I am planning on upgrading to an Mac computer in the near future. Can I take carry over the editing, rating, sorting of photos, etc. that I have done in Lightroom on my windows PC to the Mac computer when I get it or will I have to redo everything?
5. Can I open images from Lightroom in Photoshop Elements?
6. I can purchase Adobe Lightroom 5 without buying the Creative Cloud subscription, correct?
Again, I would appreciate some answers ASAP because I have photos that I need to sort for my work and cannot do so until I buy Lightroom or another software if necessary. Also, if there is a faster/better way to get questions answered please let me know (I'm new to Adobe.) Thanks!!!

If you want to have the photos stored on an external HD, you probably should move them there in your operating system before you import into Lightroom.
But, if you don't yet own an external HD, you can import from the internal hard drive and later move the photos to wherever you want them to be, as long as you do it properly.

A few questions before installing xp

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