After 300 cycles, is the battery problem considered normal?

I now have the dreaded "Macbook won't work unless plugged in" problem. Mine does recognize the battery at various percentages up to 100% and will charge it if it runs down (which it slowly will in sleep mode as I can unplug it then). Purchased the computer on June 6, 2006 (very out of warranty), and just started with this "can't unplug" issue last week.
After trolling this and other sites I have reset the SMU and the PRAM several times. Removed battery looks normal, no warping, and I am always updated on the software updates, so the battery update has been installed for a while now. I run maintenance scripts regularly as well.
I have calibrated the battery several times in the past but cannot now as it will take several days on sleep to run it completely down, and I need the computer daily for work as I am self-employed. I have always let it run down in the past to sleep mode, then plugged it in. I never used it plugged in while at 100%, until now since I have to.
Coconut Battery (which I just started using) says I'm at 3526 mAh of the original 5200, 67% capacity on a 100% charge. Is this typical at this age and usage of battery?
So battery cycles are at 307, plus I'm out of warranty. Is this behavior (can't run unplugged though battery is at 100% or will charge if lower) typical after 300 cycles? In other words, do I have to buy a new battery every year to avoid this sudden shut off if the magsafe cord is yanked accidentally during my work?
And I have read of others who get their battery with the same issue changed out under warranty--only to have the issue recur shortly later. Am I going to drop serious cash on a battery that will leave me in this same predicament in just a few weeks into the future? I really need advice on this one.

redalicat wrote:
Thought I was preventing battery memory issues by running it off the battery so much, definitely won't make that mistake again.
The memory thing has been going around since the Ni-Cad days. Li-Ion doesn't have that problem thank goodness. Here is some info that may also help you with your next battery.
It is OK to leave your battery hooked to the charger most of the time. The only time I unhook mine from the charger is when I calibrate. You should calibrate your battery once a month.
The following links have good information about the MacBook and the care of it's battery.
MacBook reduces processor speed when battery is removed while operating from an A/C adaptor
Apple portable computer's battery does not show a full charge in Mac OS X
Apple Notebook Batteries
Lithium-ion Batteries
MacBook: How to remove or install the battery
Determining Battery Cycle Count
Use and cleaning of MagSafe power connector
Look here for some good tips about battery care.

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Sounds like the device was dropped at some point and damaged as a result.
Take it to Apple for evaluation and a replacement.

After updating mavericks highlights the battery requires assistance

after updating mavericks highlights the battery requires assistance

"Service Battery" notification?
You have to take the computer to the Apple store to have it checked out.
You can try resetting SMC.
    Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".

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if you using the same port, maybe this issue caused by your kingmax
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Why does my brand new MacBook pro have 13 cycles on the battery right out of the box?

Why does my brand new MacBook pro have 13 cycles on the battery right out of the box? Shouldn't it have 0 because it's brand new.

horn0371 wrote:
Why does my brand new MacBook pro have 13 cycles on the battery right out of the box? Shouldn't it have 0 because it's brand new.
Yes it should have 0. I would return it, that means that the battery has already went through 13 full cycles. Perhaps they accidentally resold a returned one as new.

TS1382 My I-Pod will not accept a charge. The battery icon I normally see while charging is not visible on the screen. The cord works fine to charge my I-Pad.

My I-Pod will not accept a charge. The battery icon I normally see while charging is not visible. The cord works when charging my I-Pad. Any ideas?

Please find "System Information" in this folder path---Applications > Utilities---and launch it. When it opens, find "Power" in the left-hand contents pane and click it to get something like this in teh main pane:
Copy everything in the "Battery Information" and copy/paste it here. The number values in that report may help us diagnose what is happening.
Also, did you buy this battery directly from Apple or from another source. There are an increasing number of reports showing up that suggests some counterfeit batteries being sold.

Macbook pro 2011 battery dropped to 30% after 300 cycles

Hello ,
I have a Macbook pro early 2011 and I have noticed that the battery suddenly is draining too fast , after installing battery health it seems that in 2 weeks the battery dropped from 86% to 30% and there is the service battery sign
Please help !
Charge Information:
Charge Remaining (mAh):    1696
Fully Charged:    Yes
Charging:    No
Full Charge Capacity (mAh):    1696
Health Information:
Cycle Count:    304
Condition:    Service Battery
Battery Installed:    Yes
Amperage (mA):    -133
Voltage (mV):    11953

Cycles mean almost NOTHING, its short term abuse that matters.
1. did you often drain the battery very low?
2. did you often /always have your macbook on charge,......or did you often / always BOTH have your macbook on charge AND in sleep mode?
3. did you often /always play realistic heavy graphics games ON battery on your notebook?
1 or 2 and 3 are harsh on the battery chemistry and therefore its longevity
all batteries are consumables meant to replaced either in their own "due time" or early due to abuse / misuse.
Proper understanding of a battery charge cycle
A charge cycle means using all of the battery’s power, whether that is at once, or over several shorter battery discharges and recharges.
Two examples for clarification:
As a first example, where one fully charged battery is discharged down to 10%, then fully recharged, then using 10% of that full charge, this counts as 1 cycle since the total of both discharges is 100% of a full charge of use.
In the second example, where one fully charged battery is discharged down to 40%, then fully recharged, then using 40% of that full charge, this also counts as 1 cycle since the total of both discharges is 100% of a full charge of use.
While both examples are that of a single charge cycle, the first example is more aggressive against the lithium battery chemistry than is the second example. In short, collective overall gentle shallow or mid-range draining of your lithium battery is a better use condition than is the first example of deep-draining of the battery. While both are quantitatively identical as a single charging cycle, they are wholly different qualitatively on the battery chemistry, which is directly related to its ultimate longevity and health.
In short, it is the near and mid-term life of the battery as relates to its proper care (or lack thereof) that is to be looked after.
Priorities in order of decreasing importance for battery care are:
1. Avoiding deep discharges of the battery.
2. Avoiding having your battery constantly on charge or on charge and in sleep mode.
3. When playing graphics intense games, use your notebook plugged in when possible.
4. Reduction of battery cycles by plugging into power when on the go, or when accessible.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is vitally important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery, much more so than is the counting of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will greatly hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
Understand that a charge cycle is a general parameter of use, but is not directly related to the short-term or mid-term abuse of the battery, which can rapidly hasten a shorter lifespan, regardless of what the actual cycle count on the battery indicates.
Proper considerations for near-term care of the battery is of utmost importance. Abuse of the battery is entirely avoidable, long-term eventual old age deterioration of the battery is entirely unavoidable.
Apple’s adaptive charging system mitigates much potential for accidental battery misuse or abuse; however it is still readily possible to abuse the battery and thereby affect battery health.

Number of cycles of the battery

Does anyone had a problem with a macbook battery? My battery is not working and has only 226 cycles...

I'm new so I didn't had a chance to search the forum...only after posting the question, that I realised that there were so many problems related to mine. My problem is that my battery doesn't charge. It stoped charging after 226 cycles, and aparently everything was fine.
Here is the battery information:
Battery Information:
Model Information:
Serial Number: DP-ASMB016-375e-7ae6
Manufacturer: DP
Device name: ASMB016
Pack Lot Code: 0002
PCB Lot Code: 0000
Firmware Version: 0110
Hardware Revision: 0500
Cell Revision: 0102
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 0
Fully charged: No
Charging: No
Full charge capacity (mAh): 0
Health Information:
Cycle count: 226
Condition: Check battery
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 19
Voltage (mV): 4490

Few battery cycles, but the battery breaks? surely a manufacturing fault

I experienced a situation where my battery needed replacing at only 131 cycles of usage, no where near the common level of 300 cycles, and I was covered with warranty, yet they insisted on me paying a fair bit for a new battery.
It's ridiculous, I haven't over used my battery, or mistreated it, yet im expected to front the bill, surely its a manufacturing fault for a battery to fail after such a small amount of usage?!
I understand that not all batteries act the same and they dont all last exactly the same amount of time, but running out this quickly, with so few cycles seems a joke.

6ITManagement,
The warranty, states that "Your one-year warranty includes replacement coverage for a defective battery. You can extend your replacement coverage for a defective battery to three years from the date of your notebook purchase with the AppleCare Protection Plan. However, the AppleCare Protection Plan for notebook computers does not cover batteries that have failed or are exhibiting diminished capacity except when the failure or diminished capacity is the result of a manufacturing defect." (According to the Apple website).
So through that, I understand I am not covered for the battery unless its a manufacturing defect. But I don't understand why my issue is not a defect. 133 cycles, is not even half the 300 cycle amount that ppl are always talking about, surely a reliable battery that has been correctly manufactured wouldnt have issues like this?

"THE" battery problem, or something even worse???

My PowerBook is only a month old. I calibrated the battery the first time I used it, and it held a charge for about 2 hours the first few times. Then is started getting freaky.
Here's what happens:
-Battery only charges to 96 percent, then the green light goes off and it doesn't continue to charge.
-If I then unplug the cable, I get about 20 minutes of battery life at best.
-If the battery drains completely and shuts down and I plug the computer in, I can't turn it back on. I have to wait several minutes, and then it will suddenly work again.
-When I finally do get it to turn on after a full discharge, my date is set to 1970.
-When I remove the battery and try to work with power only, I can't turn it on at all. It will only turn on at all if the battery is in.
That last point in particular is making me worry. It seems like it may not be the battery, but something else. Any ideas?
I checked the apple site to see if my battery is one of the batteris affected by "the" problem, but it isn't.
PowerBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.3)
iBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.2)

You're right -- Apple is aware of the bad batch of batteries. I talked with an Apple tech today and he was very excited about hearing there was some type of thing that happened when I jiggled the AC connector in it's socket. As I mentioned above, on a battery from the "bad" batch, the mAh went from 800-ish to 4600+ just by moving the connector in and out a little -- he immediately escalated the call to his supervisor, as there may be some issue with not only the bad batteries, but also/or the charging circuitry (at least in my PBook). From the two of them (the rep and the sv), I had the feeling there's been no discussion (in their camp) of problems beyond the now-accepted bad battery issue, so at least now they are aware of other possibilities, FWIW. But, like I said, it may just be my PBook.
It's been 24 hours since I this happened, and the battery ran for over four hours non-stop the first time it reset, and I've used it on and off today, with the charge dropping to 85% a couple of times, and it still shows a cur/max mAh as 4563/4570 on XRG.
For those of you (with October, 2005 hi-res PBooks) having battery problems, call Apple for a replacement battery. If you're thinking of also jiggling your ac connector in its socket on your PBook to possibly get the same result I did (described above), be advised that all it took for my unit to change or somehow reset the charge factors was a very SLIGHT, subtle pressure, and it could more accurately be decribed as a very gentle in-out manipulation that was only lasted a split second and it was hardly an exact motion. That's all -- it was an inadvertant result and I can't promise you will be able to repeat it (I don't know that I could repeat it). The important thing is that it happened, and tso I'm reporting it. For the record, I'm NOT advising you to start wiggling and yanking connections -- use your heads, kids
AZB
Performa/G3 iMac/G4 eMac/G5 2.0dp/and my 15" G4 1.67 DL PBook w/2G RAM ROCKS!!! Mac OS X (10.4.3) My Macs are like my children, I love them all equally (even the ugly ones)...

The battery problem,

The battery indicator does not show normally. It shuts down after the adaptor plucks off. When the window is openned, It is shown visit to "www.hp.com/go/techcenter/startup"

Hi ,
Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome. It is a great site for information and questions. I have looked into your issue about your HP Pavilion dv6-6047cl Notebook and issues with the battery not working correctly. Here is a link to calibrate and test the Battery. Calibration should eliminate this issue. Plug the power adapter directly into a functioning wall outlet. Do not plug it into a power strip, surge protector, or secondary power source as this could cause and issue. HP Battery Check in HP System Diagnostics for Windows 8, would give you details of charging and discharging.Testing and Calibrating the battery using HP System Diagnostics in Windows 8. At the starting of the Notebook, Press F2 to select F2 System Diagnostics. Then choose Component Tests, then battery. Let me know how this goes. Thanks.

My HTC 1 phone is completely charged and after a few calls the battery goes down Why?

My HTC 1 phone is completely charged and after a few calls then battery goes down fast Why?
HTC One

We certainly want you to get the most out of the device! To confirm is this the HTC One M7 or M8? When checking Settings>Power, what are some of the top apps and processes using battery? The battery is warrantied for one year so it is possible it is past its prime. Only HTC directly would be able to review replacement options of only the battery. I am eager to continue troubleshooting though!
YaleK_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport
If my response answered your question please click the �Correct Answer� button under my response. This ensures others can benefit from our conversation. Thanks in advance for your help with this!!

The battery problem (and an explanation)

This is for all the people who posted with battery problems (battery always shows full charge / charging, battery only charges with wall charger, battery drains overnight on full charge even though it is off, ipod cannot be turned off).
If you are under warranty, take it to the apple store. If you are like me and are out of warranty, you have a couple options.
1. If the only problem you experience is with a weak charge (battery drains overnight on full charge) then it is probably a battery problem. Follow the usual steps (5 R's) first, then search online for replacement batteries. The process is EASY and CHEAP.
2. If you experience any of the other problems I listed (the ones I have are: Ipod won't turn off - which causes the battery to drain quickly, always shows charged / charging, only charges through wall charger) then you probably have a logic board problem. This is the answer people aren't giving you. Unfortunately, the logic board replacement is much more expensive (however, with the right tools which are cheap, it is not that difficult).
What are your options? You can sell your ipod for parts and buy a new one. Your other option is to try and pick up a broken ipod and hope it has a working logic board. Note that the 'sad face' can actually be a problem with the logic board and not the hd! If the hd is making clicking noises / clearly sounds bad, then it is probably an hd problem. Keep this in mind.
Currently I plug my ipod into the wall charger each day then only use it for short trips when I need it. I'm hoping the next gen ipods come out soon =]. However, I am keeping my eyes open for ipods that may have hd or other problems that I can pick up on the cheap. I have not turned to ebay since it is hard to figure out exactly what the problem is.

My brother never syncs either and that's not good. Should sync often if not every day. So, given that, as far as your apps go, did you remove any apps over the last year and you just forgot? If so, when you synced with your computer it simply deleted the apps from your phone. Not being snide just a thought.

Nokia's answer to the battery problem: turn everyt...

http://www.nokia.com/gb-en/support/faq/?action=singleFAQ&caseid=FA136400_en_US
How rediculous is this?
Isn't this phone all about a great user expierence? I never read this only applies when the phone is connected to the charger!

XxWWWSAMxX wrote:
what are you on about?
Quote from above Nokia resource:
To increase your phone's battery life:
Turn on Battery Saver. Select Settings > battery saver. Note when Battery Saver is on, your phone will no longer: automatically receive email and calendar updates, update some Live Tiles and allow apps to run in the background.
Stop your phone scanning for available Wi-Fi networks if those are not available. Select Settings > WiFi > Off.
Switch Bluetooth on only when you need it. Select Settings > Bluetooth.
Use network connections selectively. For example, if the signal strength of the mobile network varies much in your area, your phone must scan for the available network repeatedly. This increases the demand on battery power. If the 3G connection is on in the mobile network settings, your phone searches for the 3G network. To switch off the 3G connection, select Settings > mobile network, and deactivate the 3G connection.
Reduce the frequency of email synchronization. Select Settings > email+accounts > YourEmail > Download new content.
Use a dark theme. Select Settings > theme > Background > dark. Select also dark theme in applications that offer an option.
Reduce the screen brightness. Select Settings > brightness > Level. Disable the automatic feature first. The brightness level also affects the Automatically adjust functionality.
Use a Wi-Fi connection to connect to the internet, rather than a mobile data (GPRS or 3G) connection.
Switch off location services if not needed – so the phone will not look up your location frequently in the background. SelectSettings > location > Off.
Disable unneeded background applications. Select Settings (swipe left to applications tab) > background tasks
Use wired headphones, rather than the loudspeaker.
Switch off unwanted sounds and functions, for example Vibrate. Select Settings > ringtones+sounds.
Switch off “connect with Xbox LIVE” when not needed. Select Xbox LIVE > Settings > Connect with Xbox LIVE.
Switch off your phone or switch flight mode on whenever phone is not needed, for example, while you are sleeping. Note that the alarm clock is not active if the phone is off!
Ensure your phone's battery is fully charged. Check Settings > battery saver > battery information. Note that older chargers may not fully charge the battery.
Note: it is recommended to use the original charger found in the sales package to charge the battery of your phone.
Note: make sure that your phone is running the latest software to get battery related improvements.
If the battery loses the power fast even though there are no features consuming the power, switch phone off and back on. The battery may be also wearing out and needs to be replaced with a new one.
Happy to have helped forum with a Support Ratio = 42.5

My iPad went down to 98% battery after 6 mins after being taken off the charger is this normal?

Ya pretty much what the tile says I just wanna know if this is normal

That seems to be a bit too fast if it continues to drain that quickly. That would be 20° drain each hour only giving you 5 hours of battery life. Give it some time before you make any real assessment, the battery indicator can act sort of funky at times. My indicator will stay on 100° for 15 minutes and then start to drain rather quickly until it evens out and gets to where it should be. From that point on, it will reduce at a normal rate.
You can try resetting the iPad. Sometimes that cures hunky little software issues. Sometimes, restarting the iPad can return the gauge to a normal reading.
Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Reset the iPad by holding down on the sleep and home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider if it appears on the screen - let go of the buttons. Let the iPad start up.

After 300 cycles, is the battery problem considered normal?

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