Am I overthinking this?

Hi,
Just signed up for a free upgrade to Infinity (being installed next Friday). I currently have a BT Vision box on a no subscription pay as you view deal.
I am considering moving over to Youview but here is my dilemma, my broadband contract expires towards the end of May and the price I pay for Infinity is held at the current rate until then. On renewal I will obviously need to re negotiate the contract for infinity.
So, If I take out a contract for Youview now which will tie me in for 12 months that will seriously compromise my bargaining position when my BB contract is due for renewal, should I therefore hold off upgrading to Youview so that it coincides with the BB renewal so that if push comes to shove I can migrate to another provider? Or am I being too cynical here?
Thanks

Hi rubble2,
Thanks for posting. It would probably be best to hold off but I can check what’s available to you if you wish. Drop me an email with the details. You’ll find the “contact us” form in the about me section of my profile.
Cheers
David
BTCare Community Mod
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
We are sorry but we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)

Similar Messages

Branch IPSEC VPN Site with WCCP setup for vWAAS - Overthinking this

OK, I have a fairly large WAAS environment so I'm kicking myself for overthinking this. I have a particular branch that has an 881 router that terminates an IPSEC connection back to my main location. I have a vWAAS at this branch site, so I'm going WCCP. I got the license upgrade to enable to the WCCP feature set. Now Im confused on the WCCP setup. There is only 1 VLAN at the branch. I have the WAAS setup to do WCCP GRE.
Question is: Would I do the redirect 61,62 on the VLAN1 internface? I think I would, but Im used to dropping the 62 on the serial interface of my MPLS. I.E.:
int vlan1
ip wccp 62 redirect in
ip wccp 61 redirect in
HERE IS THE CURRENT CONFIG
ip wccp 61 redirect-list branch-waas
ip wccp 62 redirect-list branch-waas
interface Vlan1
description Branch Data VLAN
ip address 10.22.1.1 255.255.255.0
ip nat inside
ip virtual-reassembly in
ip tcp adjust-mss 1452
crypto ipsec client ezvpn Corporate-client inside
ip access-list extended branch-waas
remark WCCP Redirect ACL
deny   tcp any any eq telnet
deny   tcp any any eq 22
permit ip any any

wccp 62 is to intercept the WAN traffic, but if you put it on the LAN side, you have to catch the traffic on its way out:
ip wccp 62 redirect out
There is no need to deny telnet and ssh, those both have policies in WAAS for passthrough. Also, I prefer to put my WAAS device on its own VLAN. However, if it is going to be on VLAN 1, your access list will need:
ip access-list extended branch-waas
remark WCCP Redirect ACL
deny   ip any host (WAAS IP)
deny   ip host (WAAS IP) any
permit ip any any
To make sure you do not loop WCCP traffic.
Just edited to change from TCP to IP in access list.

Am I overthinking this simple strategy?

Hi all, I've been doing a lot of reading on these forums and finally had the guts to make my first post! I am having a bit of trouble understanding a strategy I keep seeing when it comes to rebuilding your credit. I promise I'm not a dunce, I just can't seem to grasp this one: - Keeping util. under 30% of limit and paying balance off in full every month Simple enough, right? Well, I ran across an answer to a question on CK that mentioned something about using that strategy above plus paying your balance in full 2 days before the due date and refraining from using the card until the statement posted, but I'm not quite sure how this helps your credit score if the CCC reports a zero balance every month. How does this help raise your score if the CCC just reports a zero balance every single month? Do you let it report a small balance and then pay it off the next month (and take the hit on interest), or how does it all work? I'm overthinking it, I know, but I just can't get over this. What am I missing?

_lpc wrote:
Hi all, I've been doing a lot of reading on these forums and finally had the guts to make my first post! I am having a bit of trouble understanding a strategy I keep seeing when it comes to rebuilding your credit. I promise I'm not a dunce, I just can't seem to grasp this one: - Keeping util. under 30% of limit and paying balance off in full every month Simple enough, right? Well, I ran across an answer to a question on CK that mentioned something about using that strategy above plus paying your balance in full 2 days before the due date and refraining from using the card until the statement posted, but I'm not quite sure how this helps your credit score if the CCC reports a zero balance every month. How does this help raise your score if the CCC just reports a zero balance every single month? Do you let it report a small balance and then pay it off the next month (and take the hit on interest), or how does it all work? I'm overthinking it, I know, but I just can't get over this. What am I missing?It's a technique used by us FICO strategists when we're getting "clean" for an application. There's absolutely no reason to do this (other than if you're just trying to check where you're at at some given point in time after prettying up your report) other than the application scenario; however, revolving utilization is calculated on reported balances which is what's actually on your credit report and doesn't factor in whether you're paying in full (which you should be under typical circumstances) or carrying a balance. As a result in order to maximize that part of the scorecard, the general suggestion is a good one: leave a small amount on one card to report, and have the rest of your cards report zero, by paying in advance of the statement date, not using the card, and getting it to report a $0 balance to bureaus. The reason for this is because part of the calculation involves the number of revolving tradelines with balances, and the fewer, (again, not all, as that is a different penalty for non-credit-use as absurd as that sounds), the better for all files as we understand it from large amounts of anecdotal data. You can pay off the remaining small balance on the one card after the statement cuts, typically a 25 day grace period, to prevent having to pay interest even with this: you just need the statements to cut correctly, before and after do what you need to do.

Suggestion for turning this into one case structure

This is a snippet from some exisiting code we were hired to modify/clean up. I have to assume there is some way I can reduce this to only have one case structure, maybe with a not-and or not-or. Or maybe I'm overthinking this. Basically I keep confusing myself in relatively simple code when thinking about the booleans being compared. Any help is appreciated.
CLA, LabVIEW Versions 2010-2013
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Attachments:
cleanuppls.PNG ‏11 KB

KathrynB wrote:
This does look to be just a NAND, pure and simple.
The truth table I came up with was:
old   new    write to global
0      0         1 (< is false, new is false)
0      1         1 (< is true)
1      0         1 (< is false, new is false)
1      1         0 (< is false, new is true)
Classic not-and.
Your logic works in the case where you want one result if both inputs are TRUE, and another result otherwise. That would require modifying the original logic. In the case where the original logic persists, then you need one result if one input is TRUE and the other is FALSE, and another result otherwise. In this case, you need Implies.
Darren Nattinger, CLA
LabVIEW Artisan and Nugget Penman

Does this hanging quotation mark look dumb?

I designed a fundraising brochure for a client that includes a quote on the bottom of the front cover (attached). Text is flush right for the moment. I did it two ways: flush right as is (left sample) and flush right with the closing quotation mark hanging out a bit (right sample). Does it look okay or am I overthinking this? I wouldn't obsess so much if it wasn't the cover.

Never hurts to show that sort of client both options. I think the originals both look like "centered" alignment that is badly spaced, and you can use that as a jumping-off point to introduce the left-aligned option. With differnt line breaks I think right-aligned would be fine, but this particular quote would look odd, I think, if you tried to break it differently.

Mini DisplayPort to DVI-D Dual Cable/Adapter for mid-2010 iMac?

Hi . . .
Sorry to pester with a question that's been covered from various angles before, but I'm new to the Mac world. Am a musician in BC, Canada doing a project remotely with people in Ontario. Decided to ditch my PC-based recording rig and went with a 2010 iMac and Logic Pro X (hallelujah!) because the other people are using Logic Pro X. So . . . I'm just learning the ropes.
Anyway . . . I have a spare monitor I want to run in dual setup extended desktop, and I'm not 100% certain of the cable and/or adapter I'll need. I'm also not sure why the adapters are bigger and seem to contain more internal components, whereas the cables just look like a simple "Plug 1" connected to "Plug 2" cable in a variety of lengths (in the same way you'd have a XLR to 1/4" phono cable).
Here's the info on my system, and any help would be greatly appreciated (will a cable suffice or do I need an separate adapter, DVI type, etc).
My iMac (mid-2010 21" Core i3 with Firewire running Moutain Lion 10.8.5):
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/specs/imac-core-i3-3.06-21-inch-alumi num-mid-2010-specs.html
My monitor I want use as an extended desktop (Acer 22" X223W LCD):
http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/acer-x223w-lcd-monitor/4507-3174_7-32627876 .html
So, it appears I'll need a male Mini DisplayPort to a male DVI-D Dual adapter and/or cable. Do I need to specifically buy a DVI-D Dual cable? Will a simple cable function properly or do I also need an adapter? I'm pretty sure a DVI-I cable won't work because it would have extra pins that aren't present in the DVI-D.
Thanks again . . . the assistance is appreciated.
Suds . . .

You are overthinking this.
"DVI dual link support" is concerned about the resolution of the display, not the number of displays.   A dual-link adapter or cable basically has double the number of wires to carry extra data to support higher resolutions than a single-link cable. Of course, both the computer and the external display must also support the higher resolutions in order to take advantage of the capabilities of dual-link.
You want to use two displays ... your iMac's buit-in display + your Acer display as a second monitor (what you called "dual monitors"). You can do this, as I explained earlier.
Your Acer monitor's maxiumum resolution of 1680 x 1050 is not high enough to require a dual-link connection.
"In single-link mode, the maximum pixel clock frequency is 165 MHz that supports a maximum resolution of 2.75 megapixels (including blanking interval) at 60 Hz refresh. For practical purposes, this allows a maximum 16:9 screen resolution of 1920 × 1080 at 60 Hz (1915 × 1436 at a 4:3 ratio).
To support higher-resolution display devices, the DVI specification contains a provision for dual link. Dual-link DVI doubles the number of TMDS pairs, effectively doubling the video bandwidth. As a result, higher resolutions up to 2560 × 1600 are supported at 60 Hz [via dual-link DVI]."   (See Digital Visual Interface, Wikipedia)
You can connect almost any VGA, DVI or HDMI display to your iMac, using the appropriate cable and/or adapter. Of course, you always have to make sure that your cable has the correct gender plug on each end.   The Apple adapter I recommended has a female connector, so you will need a cable with a male DVI-D plug on one end. As for the other end of the cable, check the input on your Acer display to see what it has and select a cable that has an appropriate gender connector on the end that will plug into your Acer monitor.
In extended desktop mode, you can set separate (independent) resolutions for your iMac display and your external Acer display, taking advantage of the maximum resolution of each.   (For example, that's why the MacBookPro example you cited works, it's because that model MacBook Pro can support higher resolutions on an external display than it's built-in LCD panel can.)

Multiple Subinterfaces on same context.

Hi,
I'm having a difficult time finding examples where there is a multi-context ASA using multiple subinterfaces under the contexts. I'm running 5585-X SSP-10 in my network.
We have a license for 20 contexts, currently only using a quarter of those context. Issue is, the way they set this up was only one subinterface per context, and that's how they want to keep.
I'm already charged with adding three new vlans to our firewall for migrating some devices off our old network to our new one. Issue is if we keep doing that we're going to burn through all these contexts in no time.
I'm assuming you can have multiple vlans going to the same context with multiple subinterfaces. That being said, I would assume you can block the traffic from two vlans on the same context from each other.
Can anyone link me to some configuration examples for multiple subinterfaces, and an example of what the access rules on the same context might look like for two vlans with different subnets?
Thanks.

I feel you are overthinking this. If you have setup an ASA interface before then setting up subinterfaces in a context is not much different (other than having to allocate the interface to that given context) Then you configure the interface on the context as you would any other interface.
Your configuration would look like this:
changeto system
interface Gig0/0
no shut
int Gig0/0.1
vlan 10
ing Gig0/0.2
vlan 20
context A
allocate-interface Gig0/0.1 - Gig0/0.2
changeto context A
interface G0/0.1
security-level 100
nameif inside
ip add 10.10.10.1 255.255.255.0
interface G0/0.2
security-level 0
nameif outside
access-list TEST-ACL permit ip 10.10.10.0 255.255.255.0 any
access-list TEST-ACL2 permit ip any host 10.10.10.10
access-group TEST-ACL in interface inside
access-group TEST-ACL2 in interface outside
Please remember to select a correct answer and rate helpful posts

Iphoto crashed after "successful import" but during the "finishing import" stage - i had selected to delete the imported photos on my phone...iphoto crashed after 90% of the photos had been deleted. Now i can't see any of the photos on iphoto

Hi guys, I was importing about 5000 photos from my phone onto my computer. it said the import was successful but did i want to delete or keep the photos on the original device. I opted to delete photos. The photos started to count down as they deleted and the computer said "finishing import". Once it had deleted down to about 600 photos iphoto simply disappeared, and a message popped up to say it had crashed. I opted to reopen iphoto and saw that not one of the photos had imported! Not only that but now all the photos have been deleted from my phone. I'm really upset if i've lost the last year of photos/ videos....does anyone know what has happened/ if i can recover them?
thanks so much in advance x

Not sure where you got those ideas - simply import your photos and keep the rather than deleting - then after a successful import and at least one back up cycle you can format the card if you want or you can do what I do and keep the photos moving to a new card when that one is full giving you yet another backup - if problems occurs then trouble shoot them - no need to trouble shoot if there is no problem
ad personally I find removing the card and plugging it into my card reader is faster and easier than finding the USB cable and hooking it up, turning on the camera, verifying that tty e battery is charged, etc - and it eliminates a point of failure in the USB cable and the chance of the camera battery running out - but that is clearly a personal choice
You are overthinking this - it is simple
a best practice to is to never have any computer program (including iPhoto) delete the photos from the card but to import the photos and keep them and then after at least one successful backup cycle has completed and then reformat the card -- I use three very large (32 GB) cards in rotation so I do not reformat for typically a year or more giving me one more long term backup of my photos
LN

How do I update iphone 3GS 4.2.1 to ios 5.1 (don't want ios 6!)

I have an iphone 3GS on 4.2.1 and want to upgrade to ios 5.1 but on iTunes there is now only the option to upgrade to ios 6 which I don't want as I have read that although it's available for the 3GS, a lot of the features are not useable on the 3GS and it might slow the phone down etc. Is there any way I can get ios 5.1 or 5.1.1 on my 3GS? I thought I read somewhere that the only way to do it was to go into a phone shop and they would be able to upgrade it for me, but can't find the page now where I read that so I might be mistaken! Does anyone know if this is the case?
I am planning on upgrading my phone to an iphone 5 eventually but still have over 12mths left on my current contract (was an Android contract but having got fed up with the phone I am now using my sim in my old iphone 3GS but need to finish the contract before I can get a new phone!) O2 changed my data back to iphone data and everything is working fine on the phone except that most of the apps I want to use need at least ios 4.3 or 5.0 so if I am going to upgrade it I might as well get the 5.1 but I can't seem to find a way to do it. Has anyone else needed to do this recently and been successful?

spiderkatuk wrote:
Really?? Oh dear! That's going to be a bit restrictive then app wise. I should have just stuck with the 3GS in the first place then I could have upgraded it to ios 5 at the time it was out!!! Thanks anyway!
You're overthinking this too much. Your phone will still have all the same features it has now as well as all the same featuers it has when running iOS 5 plus more. Just install 6 and move on.

CS5.5 licensing for created content

I am considering purchasing a one year or month to month subscription to CS5.5 but I am bit curious about what I can and cannot do with created content. I am sure the information I am seeking is available but I have not been able to locate it. If someone could explain it to me or direct me toward the information I would greatly appreciate it.
Q1 - If I were to begin developing software using a trial version of CS5.5 and later upgrade my trial to a subscription, would I retain full ownership of work developed using the trial version? Would I be free to distribute said software without limitation?
Q2 - If I were to begin developing software using the trial version of CS5.5 and somehow complete it within the 30 day trial window without upgrading to a subscription, would I retain the same rights mentioned above?
Thank you in advance for any information.

You are overthinking this - why should Adobe care? Unless you are using specific components e.g. from Flex/ Flashbuilder or ActionScript files that fall under specific "no unbundling" regulations and may only be distributed under limited license, I see no reason why anyone would want nor could legally prevent you from distributing a compiled SWF, AIR app or even custom server-side code as long as it's based on your own code and only requires runtime components which are available for free, anyway. You might just find it difficult to deal with your clients/ users in the long run, if you don't have the means of updating your code, should you not decide to purchase/ subscribe, but that#s a different matter....
Mylenium

Is a MacBook Pro w/ Retina display worth the price?

Apple community-
    Looking at purchasing portability for school- going to work on an MFA in graphics/web/new media, and need some assistance. I've an iMac from 2007, seems to run flawlessly, but looking at options for taking school with me while at work- I'm currently travelling five different states in my current position. The new MacBook Pro with Retina display looks stunning, albeit expensive, but has many features that worry me.
    For instance, everything is completely bolted/soldered/non-upgradeable, so any desire of modification needs to be purchased pre-production, right? Also, the big issue with their PCIe "Flash based" storage... exactly what is this, and why is it so freaking expensive? I've read different reports on Apple using various manufacturers, so not every MacBook as the same storage model, no third party attempts at upgrades, etc.. If I'd like to install numerous, monstrous programs, such as the entire Adobe Creative Suites, 3D Max, Maya, Final Cut, and so forth, I'll need a high capacity memory drive, as I assume most, if not all of these, need a root drive to install, and not simply an external hard drive. I still make CDs/DVDs, so a SuperDrive is another $80.
    Chatting with an Apple representative, she stated that there is "only one model that will run my software at peak performance," which was the 15-inch model, starting at $2k; also, my software needed a "dedicated graphics card," I'm not too certain that it needs all that, and a high-end PC laptop could certainly run all of my demands- but let's face it, this is an Apple discussions community, and I'm plain simply accustomed to working on an Apple computer. Plus, I don't really care for Windows 8.
    Should I possibly aim to purchase an older model used, something without Retina, but with more storage? Is Retina that big of a deal for a laptop? I also considered the possibility of just toting a Mac Mini with a 13-inch Cintiq tablet; though it does need a constant power supply, it's still quite portable.
    Thoughts? Am I just overthinking this? I've been expecting a MacBook to be expensive, but this could be pushing it a bit.
Cheers!

guiparent,
whether it’s worth the price or not is an entirely subjective opinion. My own choice was to buy a used non-Retina 13-inch Mid 2010 MacBook Pro, and replace its hard drive with a SSD; but since I don’t use graphic-intensive apps such as the Adobe Creative Suite, my own choice would most likely not be best for you. Given your graphic design background, if you find the non-Retina displays sufficient for your needs, I’d recommend that you consider a used 15-inch Mid 2012 MacBook Pro. That model has memory sockets, so you can replace/upgrade the RAM if needed; its internal disk can be replaced by/upgraded with any 2.5-inch 9.5-mm-high SATA hard disk or SSD; and it has a built-in SuperDrive.

Installing PSE 10 on Windows 7 64 bit

OS: Windows 7 64 bit
Doing a clean install of PSE 10
This file:
www.adobe.com/go/learn_installpse10_en
indicates that disc #2 of the retail package contains:
Windows 7 (64 bit) PRE trial
In spite of no such markings on the disc.
Question #1:
What is a PRE Trial? I don't really want to install trial, or beta versions from a retail package. Is there a gold release version of PSE10 64 bit?
Question #2:
Is there is a download gold version of PSE 10 64bit? And, if so where is it?
Question #3:
If I were to start the install with disc 1 is it smart enough to know it is on a 64 bit OS and direct me to disc 2, or will it just go ahead and install the 32 bit version on disc 1? And, if it is not smart enough to install the correct version, why not?
Question #4:
Bottom line: I'm just not clear on PSE 10 64 bit. Does it exist, and how does one install it? I have stumbled on several different answers on this forum. But nothing clear cut from Adobe staff.
Thanks,

PRE = Premiere Elements
For the rest simply use disc 2. You are overthinking this.
Install Premiere Elements, Photoshop Elements
Mylenium

Install PSE 10 on windows 7 64 bit

Bought new computer with windows 7 64 bit. Can not get PSE 10 to run after install help!!!!

PRE = Premiere Elements
For the rest simply use disc 2. You are overthinking this.
Install Premiere Elements, Photoshop Elements
Mylenium

Installing iTunes to alternate internal hard drive?

Cliff Notes Version:
Can someone help me re-install iTunes on an alternate internal drive (a drive other than C)?
I have just removed iTunes and all components from my PC and now need to reinstall.
You can read the details below but ultimately I want to install all things Apple on my E drive as opposed to my C drive.
If you do read the details, I chose option 3 at the bottom as opposed to trying to fix existing errors or files.
I tried moving both the library file and the database file as instructed but you can see the error messages below.
What I am looking to do is do the original install on the E drive to avoid moving anything as that did not work the last time.
I am not looking to save any files or playlists...I can repopulate those fairly easily. I just want this set up right out of the gate.
Any advice greatly appreciated.
Original Posting on Another Board:
I originally tried to move itunes the library & database and got the these errors
- iTunes Library cannot be saved . There is not enough memory
- the iPhone Doug's iPhone cannot be synced. An unknown error has occured (-23)
My System:
Windows 7 64 bit
C drive = 96Gb SSD that is used for program files only. I want to move both the library and database (ie all Apple software) off of here.
iTunes 10.7.0.21
System has 8Tb of memory over several hard drives (music, photos, etc...). iTunes will only manage the music part of my media
Of these drives, about 1.5 Tb is music. Of that 1Tb is a copy (FLAC) of all my CD's. The other 1/2 Tb is digital music I have downloaded.
E: = 1 Tb drive for digital music (mp3 files) It is less than 20% full
H: = 1 Tb drive containing a FLAC copy of my CD collection
Bonjour was/is disabled as it had been causing other issues with the system (edit - is has now been uninstalled with the remainder of the Apple software)
I wanted to move itunes (both the library and database files) is to keep the SSD at a lower capacity. Obviously the library files alone would have over-ran the drive, but I am not sure how large the database file gets, so to be safe I moved it too. Here are the steps I took:
First I moved the library (at the point it was moved it only had 3 mps cd's in it).
1. Edit>Pref>Advanced
2. Checked only the Keep iTunes Media Folder Organized (I do not want a second copy of all my music in the library.
3. Clicked CHANGE button and chose E:/Music folder (the same drive I have my digital files on and only 20% full.
4. File>Library>Organize Library>Consolidate Files>OK
I then moved the iTunes Database:
1. Shut down iTunes
2. Copied the iTunes folder to the new location (also E:/Music)
3. Restarted iTunes while holding the shift key and chose the library.
Finally, I moved in all the digital files from the E drive (File>add Folder to Library). This appeared to work and all my MP3 files appeared in iTunes.
The problem started when I attempted to sync my iPhone. I should note that my music library has been recently rebuilt as I lost everything on a previous drive (music, iTunes, etc...). So, when I attempted to sync the phone for the first time since re-installing/rebuilding everything, I got an error message: this iPhone is already synced to another Library. And that if I continued with the sync, I would lose all the files on the iPhone. I was ok with that as I had the files in the new/rebuilt iTunes. Also checked was the button to let me check the files I wanted to sync as iTunes is much larger in size than my phone. At that point I tried to select several files to sync with the phone and got the error messages listed at the top.
So, I have a few questions:
1. Can anyone tell me what the error messages mean? The first about not having enough size makes no sense. The drive that iTunes was moved to was only 20% full at the time on a 1Tb drive. Even if I had chosen to keep a copy of the music in iTunes (which I did not) it would have still only been 40% full including the iTunes Library file. I have no idea why I got this message.
2. Just how large will the iTunes database get. I know this is subject to how much it "manages" but assuming 3-4 Tb of music, photos, etc... how large will this file grow? On my SSD Windows is taking up more than 25% of the drive. I could leave this on the SSD provided it will remain fairly small and just move the library but thought it would be just as easier to move everything.
3. Would I be better off completely installing iTunes and re-installing it on the alternate E drive as opposed to the default C (SSD) drive? This is what I have choosen to do, so far have uninstalled iTunes and now have questions regarding re-installing on an alternate drive (see very top)
Any help is greatly appreciated!

turingtest2 - thanks for the info. Have some questions:
1. Already used 3rd party software to backup all the music from my phone (about 99% ripped from cd or purchased elsewhere than iTunes. So, I really need to just get any data (contacts, etc...) and the apps purchased backed up. I assume doing steps 3-6 from the Recover Your iTunes Library link you sent will do this?
2. From what you sent, just my database file will be about 20Mb on a 96Mb drive. That is precisely why I want to move the database as well as the library off the C drive.
3. I currently have no library as I deleted all things Apple earlier today. What I do have is 2 drives that contain music, an E drive for music downloaded and an H drive for music ripped from CD's. So I don't currently have a library to know if it's working. The process you describe is a split process with the library database on one drive and the media folder on another drive. In my case I do want to "move" the entire iTunes folder to another drive but an internal drive. And as opposed to moving the files, is there a way to simply install them that way when downloading a new copy of iTunes (rather than installing then moving the files)?
Also, in the Make a Split Library Portable document you linked, it sawy that any media files outside of the media folder will need to be consolidated. Since I am starting from scratch, I assume there will be no files there yet to consloidate. Or would this be the files I backed up and restored (apps, data,etc...) in step 2?
As for manipulations you mention, are any of these necessary in my case if I am not moving a library but rather creating a new library on a different drive? I assume once the
Or, in short, how can I simply install (or move) the entire iTunes folder to my E drive and then compile the library with music? And if you don't mind, could you be pretty detailed on moving/installing both the library database and the media folder on the new drive? I got confused about renaming, root drives, etc...
Or am I overthinking this and it is as simple as downloading iTunes (to the C drive)> copying the iTunes Media folder (and all contents)>pasting that folder in my E drive> going back and deleting the original iTunes Media folder in the C drive> then re-opening iTunes +shift key to point to the new iTunes Media folder on the E drive?
Thanks again

Need more storage - larger internal drive, or external drive?

Good day...here's a little background before I head into my question.
I have a mid-2010 Macbook Pro with a 320 GB hard drive. I have an 2 GB WD External Hard drive...I've partitioned 500 GB that I use for my Time Machine backups and use the remaining 1.5 TB to store additional files, mainly music and video files. I rarely keep it plugged in to my MBP....I'll plug it in to do the odd Time Machine backup every couple of weeks, but that's about it. I like taking the MBP to the living room to use and the idea of having to plug and unplug an external hard drive several times a day is something I've decided not to do. Additionally, I access most of my photos/music/video through my Apple TV to play them on my TV/receiver. I also have no need to use the cloud as I don't require access to my media files when I'm out of the house.
My internal hard drive has been filling up over the last year and as it has, I've been dumping video files to my external hard drive. If I need them again, I'll simply transfer the odd one back to my MBP and add it back to the Itunes library. However, even with the odd purging, my internal drive is now filling up, mainly due to photos and videos of the little kids. The time has come, I need to do something.
I know that I have the option to store my Itunes library on an external drive (and this would quickly fix my storage issue as about half the 320 GB of space is my Itunes library), but I've been hesitate to do so. I do have an Airport Extreme Base Station downstairs and a PC Desktop as well. In reviewing these forums, I understand that I can transfer my Itunes library to my external hard drive, connect it right to the AEBS and access my Itunes files on my MBP from there. However, as I buy new music/videos from Itunes or add other media files to my Itunes on my MBP, would they automatically transfer to the Itunes library on my External, or would I have to add them each time? Is it still pretty seamless to transition to having my itunes library on an external hard drive without a lengthy list of things that you have to "put up with"?
In an effort to resist too much change, I've been thinking about simply replacing my 320 GB internal drive with a 1 TB internal drive so that I can keep things pretty much as they are...keep the Itunes library on my MBP and continue using the 2 TB external for backups and some additional storage space.
So, with that, I'm curious to hear any feedback on how to approach this...am I complicating things, are there any suggestions on how I could be organizing things way better? And finally, is your advice to increase the internal hard drive, or should I quit overthinking this and just move the ituens library to an external hard drive?
Thanks!
Lee

large external HD
A computer should never be considered a data storage device, only a data creation/ sending/ manipulation device.
All mega-storage should be a "grab and dash" item to store in a fire vault etc. Easily unhooked from a main computer capable of lightning strike, failure, easy erasure, etc.
And never ever rely on one backup ever. Recipe for disaster.
There are currently only 3 HD manufacturers, WD, Seagate, and Hitachi/Toshiba (recently acquired by WD).
No such thing as a "windows" Hard Drive either, .....only a Win formatted HD. A HD is a HD ... whatever it says or is formatted in when you buy it,... you can format it for Mac OSX extended journaled.
All personal conjecture aside, Hitachi/Toshiba are the best 2.5" HD, same used by Apple inside the Macbook Pro
..... also those running literally 1000s of HD in server farms agree on this.
That being said, WD are not recommended as an internal HD for a Mac.
Most reliable 3.5" class HD are Seagate
The LaCie drives carried in the Apple stores contain 3.5" Seagate HD
Most reliable 2.5" class HD are HItachi/Toshiba (same as used by Apple in the macbook Pro).
MUCH empirical data (and my own as well) says that Western Digital are the worst
WD has some compatibility issues with Mac.
Best bang for the buck in external 2.5" HD, is the Toshiba Canvio Basics HDTB120XK3CA 2 Terabytes 2.5" External Hard Drive
I have 4 of these tiny 2TB drives, ....theyre highly rated, and phenomenal
Currently theyre $120
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Basics-Portable-HDTB120XK3CA/dp/B00ARJD56K
People running server farms and see 1000s of HD, and failures will all tell you the same, in 3.5" class, get a Seagate, and DONT get a WD.
7 out of 10 HD failures have NOTHING to do with the HD.......if a HD fails (and they all fail) , its usually first 3 months or less
7 out of those 10 failures AFTER 3 months is NOT a bad HD, but a cheap/junk SATA connector and circuitry which connects the external HD to your computer.
Seagate large BACKUP HD 3.5" had gotten, for a while a bad reputation, but it had nothing to do with the HD, rather the cheap SATA connector interface that it was plugged into in the external casing.

Am I overthinking this?

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