B/w G3 with no system installed

I just purchased a used G3 B/W on e-bay.The hard drive was password protected and locked. No install discs and my wife tossed my originals out as my current b/w is running OS10.2.8. and she thought I had too many cd's around. I installed the new hard drive in my old G3, booted from a OS9 installer cd and did a clean install of the system software on the new hard drive.Then re-install the hard drive back into the G3. This is an easy way if you have more than one b/w G3 and no G3installation discs. The new machine is up and running on OS9. Waiting for more ram before going to OSX.
ps, all my Mac cds are now well hidden!
Blue & White G3 350mhz Mac OS X (10.2.x) dsl, firewire cd burner, Zip 250 usb,internal Zip 100 512mg ram

no question now, just a topic. I answered my own question eventually as I do not have the G3 installition dics or a OS8.5 installition disc and without those this G3 would not let you install system software with a empty hard drive. My original G3 is a back up to my I-Mac G5 now and the other G3 was purchased mostly for parts but it runs fine now so I will find a use for it also.

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I am reinstalling my mac mini with the system install disks (10.4.5). The first disk works fine. I am then asked to insert disk 2 though my mini refuses to recognize the disk as the correct disk. One of my friends has an identical model - bought at the same time - I tried using his disks and encountered the same problem. I'm unable to do anything as the mini will not let me out of this screen.
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On Windows 7 Ultimate, desktop with C (system) drive, D K and L drives, can I install Adope Creative Suite 6 Production Premium (from cd's) to Drive D (not C). Thank you.

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I installed FF4 on Mac OS 10.4.11. Says it cannot operate with my system. Old FF gone. New FF won't work. HOW DO I RECOVER?

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Adobe encore the software that's used to decode the media is not available on this system. installing the correct decoders for the file you are working with may help correct the problem

Hi,
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The files we're shot with HD cameras. Edited in Premiere Pro CS3. I installed the update 3.0.1 with still the same error.
I also tried a brand new project and after about ten or so files being imported into a timeline, the system crash. I tried this twice....
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Hi Hunt,
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Why were no system/install disks shipped with system?

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System details
Machine type/model: 9686-A12 Serial number: Lxxxxxx Operating system: Windows 6.0 Home Operating system version: 6.00
Is there a way (Other than recovery disks) that I can get this? I went to make recovery disk and it asked for over 32 CD's. This is not right. This is plain silly as I wanted to remove all the shareware software that I did not want or will never use.
Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
John Freeze
Moderator Note; s/n edited for members own protection
Message Edited by andyP on 08-15-2008 08:35 AM

Thanks for the reply. Sorry for the time it took me to get back to you. (My mother past away and all thoughts about the puter went from mind).
Again, thanks for the Info.
Take care
John Freeze

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After migration from sccm 2007, there are many systems with no client installed

Hi Everyone,
We have migrated our environment from SCCM 2007 to SCCM 2012 , And Manual client push installation has been done by HeadQuarter SCCM admins on site code of our region.
But as i see , in all systems collection based on OU, there are approx 50% systems with no client installed.
There may be some stale systems in AD.
Is there any way so that i can list out all Stale or old computers which are not in use anymore records of systems from Active directory and so that i move them to OU for which system discovery is not enabled.
Also, it will very useful if i get more information on lastLogonTimeStamp and such more properties which specifies system as stale or OFF the network for some period..

You could also remove the objects without a client and adjust the settings in the
Options tab of the Active Directory System Discovery Properties. By tweaking those options you can make sure that you're not discovering those old objects in the first place.
My Blog: http://www.petervanderwoude.nl/
Follow me on twitter: pvanderwoude

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As per System requirements | Photoshop, PS is not officially supported on Maverick and you might face several compatibility issues as well. However, we have many users who are still using CS5 on Mavericks. So, if you want you can give it a try and check it for your self.
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~ Arpit

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Running Dual boot windows 8 and win 7 pro with xp mode installed!! I love it!!

It took over 2 days to figure out how to adjust the bios to get my win 7 pro DVD to boot and install dual boot on this GREAT MACHINE!!
Step 1: using diskmgmt.msc you have to shring the C partition. I shrunk it so I had 80GB remaining as unallocated space.
Step 2: You have to enter the machine Bios adn set the BIOS to Both and UEFI as first
Step 3: Connect your usb dvd
Step 4: Put your win 7 pro dvd in the usb dvd drive
Step 5: Reboot your machine and when it starts press F12 to get the boot menu and select the usb dvd drive then press enter
The machine restarts
Message on screen says press a key to boot from cd/dvd
Press space and it boots up the win 7 pro DVD
After files copy and load the setup screen asks to accept the agreement and where to install win 7
BE SURE TO SELECT THE 80GB location
Then follow thru the win 7 prompts to load it.
When the machine restarts you will see a dual boot screen with Windows 7 on top as first selection and Windows 8 below it as 2nd selection.
Make sure to hit enter with windows 7 selected
The win 7 installation completes.
You will see many items with drivers not installed dont fret.
You can load most of the drivers by highlighting the device in control panel/device manager and pick update driver then select BROWSE for DRIVER and be sure to put in drive D:\ which is now the windows 8 drive and hit search.
Many of the windows 8 drivers installed with no issue.
The Realtek driver was an exception .. goto to the lenovo site and pick the x100e tablet and download the LAN driver from there about (4MB). Copy it to flash drive and install it in win 7 from the .exe file. The driver for LAN will install sucessfully. The version of the driver is 7.46 something the 7.11 versions do not workl.
I have only 3 drivers that I could not find - 2 list as unknown and are related to ACPI or power management and 1 lists as USB controller but all the USB stuff works without it.
Be sure to either shutdown the system or sign out of win 8 when your done so you get the dual boot menu. If you shutdown while logged into win 8 the next time you start up it will go right to win 8 until you signout and restart.
Just to let you know an easy way to shutdown is go to the desktop and press ALT + FN + F4 and a shutdown menu comes up on the desktop.
Once win 7 pro is installed you can download the XP mode free from Microsoft and install it.
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ENJOY! This is the BEST machine I ever had!

It's been many, many years since I don't do dual boot anymore. Don't find the reason to do it, either. Different kinds of virtualization should be enough. Anyway...
dfw1417 wrote:
It took over 2 days to figure out how to adjust the bios to get my win 7 pro DVD to boot and install dual boot on this GREAT MACHINE!!
ENJOY! This is the BEST machine I ever had!
WHICH machine?
Cheers.
If I helped you, please give me some kudos! ^^

What to do with Previous System Folders?

First of all, Happy New Year to all!
I just spent two days doing an "Archive and Install" on my iMac at the advice of an Apple Genius who checked out my iMac at the Apple store. He said my iMac was running very slow but couldn't find any reason for it.
The first "Archive and Install" took six hours on the 30th, and then it was several more hours to get the software back up to speed with all of the updates. But after all of that, my system ended up in the Kernal Panic screen on start up. So today I got on the phone with Apple Care and they had me boot up with the Leopard Install DVD in the drive, holding down the C key. That worked, but I was back to square one with my Archive and Install.
The second try yesterday took another 6 hours, and then it took several hours to get my software back up to speed again. The Apple Care guy told me the Install should only take an hour, so that right there tells me something isn't right. Anyway, here I am after two very long days, with my iMac at least functioning again, albeit not faster as I had hoped. It's still running slow as molasses. This post has taken me forever to write due to only being able to type three or four letters, then wait for SBOD to stop spinning, then another two or three letters. It's so frustrating.
But, my main reason for posting here is to ask two questions.
1. The two "Archive and Installs" left me with two "Previous System Folders" on my hard drive that are almost 21 GB's!! I had 74 GB's free before and now have only 53. Can I dump those folders and get my space back? I sure hope so. If so, how do I safely do it?
2. The three folders on my dock at the right end; Applications, Documents, and Downloads, used to be in nice neat folders with symbols on them indicating what they are, but now they're just plain folders with stuff sticking out of the top of them, and in the case of the Applications folder, the Address book app is sitting on top of the folder, rather than inside of it, and all I see is the Address book icon, not the folder. How do I get those folders back to normal? I hate the way they look now!
I'm very frustrated that I'm having all of these problems with my iMac, but grateful at this point that I extended my warranty before the first year was up. I'm definitely going to have to take it back in for more help. I don't think it should take four minutes for iTunes to start up and shut down, four minutes for iPhoto to shut down, or two minutes for a photo to open up in iPhoto after clicking on it, etc., etc. I have the Spinning Beach Ball of Death spinning way more than it should! I'm tired of constantly having to wait for it to stop so I can continue.
Ironically, I installed two more Gigs of RAM less than six months ago so that I would have a faster computer, but I never really noticed a difference. Although it wasn't this slow the first few months.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can answer my two questions up above, and thanks for listening to me while I expressed my frustration.
Deb

Hi Deb,
This may be ten days late, and way, way too long, but you might want to try some of these suggestions, especially if AppleCare, or someone else, hasn't fixed it for you. You'll probably need to print out all this stuff. It's all stuff I've found useful in similar situations. There is no particular order to check things, but you might want check the utility "Activity Monitor" first and then try setting up a new account. That has worked for me.
Launch "Activity Monitor" (found in the utility folder inside the root Applications folder) and click on the CPU column to see if some background process or another application is running and using a large percentage of the processor's time. Also check the RAM columns to see if something is using a lot of the available RAM. If there is something that doesn't seem right, you can select it and double click the questionable item - a dialog box will appear that allows you to quit. That may solve the problem of spinning "pizza wheels" of death without a restart. At the least you'll have a good question to ask AppleCare (though they'll definitely suggest Activity Monitor.
You may also want to set up a new account in Apple Menu/System Prefs/Accounts with a different name and password. Then within that account try launching some apps from the Root Applications folder. They may now work in the new account. You can also install some apps you use most within the new account. Those apps will be placed in the Applications folder within the new home folder of the new account - NOT in the root Applications folder (the one you see when you double click the hard drive icon).
If you haven't set up a new account before it will seem strange when you first startup. Nothing is the same - the desktop, dock, etc will be like when the machine was new. But often, using the new account, and finding the sluggishness is now gone, tells you the problem was in the old account - even if you can't find what the problem was. The old account is still there. But setting up the new account will take some additional drive space if you reinstall applications.
Whatever you do, *_don't just delete the old account_* as that will also delete all your documents, videos, photos, etc. You can copy or move between accounts with your administrator password. The Library folder in the old Home folder will contain a lot of stuff you may want to keep, but also can contain the corrupt file that caused the sluggishness problem. You may want to copy the contents of different User/New Acct Home folder/Library folders a little at a time and reboot after changes. If the sluggishness reappears, then pull out the last items you put in and try to narrow it down.
If you don't want to set up a new account initially try some of these suggestions. Uninstall and reinstall the major applications that run slowly. Use the uninstaller that comes with the app. If there is none, then just reinstall and restart. That might solve the problem. Reinstall whatever apps you need. Can't hurt and may eliminate some file corruption.
After you restart, and BEFORE you launch any application, press and hold the Cmd (Apple) Key and then hit tab. You will see which apps are running in addition to the Finder. If there is stuff you didn't launch, keep pressing Cmd-Tab which will highlight each application. When selected, you can quit the application [Cmd-Q ]. Or just release the Cmd-Tab keys with the app selected and it's name should appear at the top left of the menu bar. There, you can pull down the menu and quit it (or press Cmd-Q). If it doesn't quit try to Force Quit [Opt-Cmd-Escape]. Try not to quit the Finder. Then launch the apps you need and see if they are still sluggish.
If there was stuff running and you don't know why, check your Account (Apple Menu/System Prefs/Accounts). Accounts is the first item on the System row (next to last row down). Click Accounts and when it opens, click the the account you're using (if there are more than one). Then click the Login Items tab near the top of the window. You'll see a list of apps that launch whenever you start up (sometimes in the background). If you don't recognize some of what's there you can remove them using the [-] icon. You'll have to unlock the account with your password and then re-lock it to prevent others from changing stuff.
Restart or log-out and log-in and see if the machine is faster without one or more of the removed items. There are things that are best not touched, but you'll probably know by their names. Pretty much anything you'd add will be found in the Applications or Utility folders. Other stuff is added by applications when they are installed. Make a list of whatever you remove if you have to add it back. If an application needs something you removed, you may be asked to reinstall the app.
That's it - hope it helps.
MartyP

How do I get a cd out of my imac with no system?

I have an iMac Mid 2007 with no system on it. I put in a Snow Leopard OS disk and booted from that in order to instal the system. The install failed three times with the message that certain support files couldn't be copied. I had verified and repaired the disk a couple of times while trying to do this install.
So I thought that I'd buy a Lion disk and install Lion that way. However, the Snow Leopard disk is still in the machine. Is there any way I can get that disk out of the machine without having to take the machine to be repaired? When I boot from the disk, I didn't notice anything in the menus for ejecting and there's no disk icon at that stage to drag to the trash -- there's no trash.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Oh, that's where I got the $69 from. I didn't realise it was a usb stick. Well that would solve the problem.
I can't remember where I got the Leopard disk, it's been a while. And I know this really sounds stupid, but I can't tell whether the disk is gray or white :-)
Since I last wrote, I came across this:
About Lion Recovery Disk Assistant v1.0
Built right into OS X Lion, Lion Recovery lets you repair disks or reinstall OS X Lion without the need for a physical disc.
"The Lion Recovery Disk Assistant lets you create Lion Recovery on an external drive that has all of the same capabilities as the built-in Lion Recovery: reinstall Lion, repair the disk using Disk Utility, restore from a Time Machine backup, or browse the web with Safari.
Note: In order to create an external Lion Recovery using the Lion Recovery Assistant, the Mac must have an existing Recovery HD.
To create an external Lion Recovery, download the Lion Recovery Disk Assistant application. Insert an external drive, launch the Lion Recovery Disk Assistant, select the drive where you would like to install, and follow the on screen instructions.
When the Lion Recovery Disk Assistant completes, the new partition will not be visible in the Finder or Disk Utility. To access Lion Recovery, reboot the computer while holding the Option key. Select Recovery HD from the Startup Manager. "
Since I have another iMac running Lion which has the recovery HD on it, do you think that I could create Lion Recovery on an external drive on that machine and then then boot to that external drive from the systemless machine and install from the external to the systemless machine?
Thanks.

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1. I have an eMac running Mac OS 10.5.8
Processor Name: PowerPC G4 (3.3)
Processor Speed: 1 GHz
Number Of CPUs: 1
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The latest version for your system seems to be Flash 10.1 r102
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Dual Boot Selection with two SSD Installed

I have two SAMSUNG SSD's installed in the W540.
SSD #1 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
SSD #2 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
The SSD's had a complete install of each Microsoft Windows operating system without using the dual boot manager. I select teh SSD to boot from by using teh F12 key at boot time.
On my previous computer (HP EliteBook Workstation 8560w), the BIOS had a option to display a boot selection menu for me to select from without having to manually select the option to display. The boot selection menu gave me 20-30 seconds to select a alternative boot option. If I did not respond it woudl boot to the primary drive.
Can the Lenovo W540 be setup the same way? I can find no options in the latest BIOS.

I am honestly dubious that your previous HP machine had anything in the BIOS to provide this "Boot Manager" functionality you've described. Your description is exactly what Boot Manager in Windows does, which probably what was in effect on your HP machine.
Now you say you installed two separate versions of Windows on two separate drives, and without involving Windows Boot Manager. That suggests to me that you unplugged the other SSD when you did each install, so that the Windows installer didn't even know about the other bootable OS when doing its current install. If it had seen the other pre-existing bootable Windows, then the second install would have triggered the creation of a 2-OS boot menu (identical to what you say you saw on your old HP machine). You could still have two bootable Windows, on two separate drives (or, you could also have installed to two separate partitions on one drive if you wanted to), and at boot time Boot Manager would present the menu to you and you'd select one or the other. The most recent Windows to get installed would probably have made itself the "default", so that after 10-30 seconds it would auto-boot to that Windows if you didn't arrow up/down and press ENTER to select the other Windows for this particular boot.
The BIOS of the machine has a "boot sequence" setup, and one of your two SSD drives MUST be first, in front of the other. So at boot time by default (in the absence of F12 to select a boot device) the BIOS would normally go to THAT "first" drive in the boot sequence list, locate the "active" partition on that drive (where Boot Manager is assumed to live), and start the boot process. If Boot Manager sees a 1-OS boot menu, it just goes to that partition (as C, where Windows lives on that drive) and starts Windows. If a 2-OS boot menu exists, Boot Manager presents it to you and you decide which Windows you want to boot to.
When you push F12 at boot time, you simply say to the BIOS "let me pick which of my drives I want you to go to, to then find the "active" partition on that drive to kick off the boot process". Since you did two completely independent Windows installs, I would say that you probably have a "system reserved" partition (which is marked "active") on each SSD, along with a C system partition (for Windows) on each SSD. So you can actually boot to either drive, via F12, or you can just let the machine boot to whichever one you know to be first in the boot sequence list.
But... if you'd simply installed your second Windows to the second SSD while the first Windows/SSD was still cabled and visible, the second Windows install would have done everything you're now asking to be done. The existing 1-OS boot menu (on the first SSD) would have been seen and updated by the Windows installer, to add the second Windows to the menu which would thus now be a 2-OS boot menu. The second Windows would get installed wherever you wanted it to get installed (i.e. to the second SSD), and all would be well with the world.
Note that had this taken place, no second "system reserved" partition (marked "active", and housing the second copy of Boot Manager) would have been created on the second SSD with the second installed Windows. The existing "system reserved" (marked "active", and living on the first drive in the BIOS boot sequence list) would simply have had its boot menu updated from 1-OS to 2-OS, and you'd be home free right now.
This is exactly how Boot Manager works. I'm sure your old HP machine had such a setup, with your two Windows installed sequentially over time, and with the second one recognizing the first one's existence and adding itself to the boot menu to produce a 2-OS boot menu which is what you saw. That wasn't from the BIOS. It was from Windows Boot Manager handling a 2-OS boot menu.
So, what can you do now? Well, technically, you only need one "active" partition (i.e. "system reserved", where Boot Manager lives) on the first SSD in your BIOS boot sequence list. You won't need the second "system reserved" which in my opinion was probably created (unnecessarily) when you did your second Windows install with the first SSD temporarily disconnected.
But the goal here is to get the 1-OS boot menu that's on the first SSD "system reserved" partition updated, to add the second Windows on the second SSD, producing a 2-OS boot menu. And to do that you can use a wonderful 3rd-party product named EasyBCD. It is a tool to maintain your boot menu, and you can manually do things after-the-fact (like now) which you should have done before, or simply to perform maintenance or changes.
So, with both SSD's cabled and operational (your current booted Windows will appear as C, and probably your other drive's Windows partition will thus appear as D to the current booted Windows), you run EasyBCD. It really doesn't matter which Windows is on the first SSD and that is first in the BIOS boot sequence, only that it will be the boot menu in the "system reserved" partition on that drive which will be manipulated by EasyBCD to become the 2-OS menu. You can make either Windows the default (which will auto-boot in 10 seconds if you don't select the other Windows), no matter which SSD it's on.
You can view the current boot menu (from the currently booted Windows) via EDIT. You pick which entry is to be the "default".
To add a new entry to the boot menu, push the ADD button and navigate to the drive (D) the Windows to be added lives on.
If you don't already have same, I would recommend you have a "system image" backup of both of your bootable Windows drives (to an external USB 3.0 drive, ideally), so that if you're skittish about doing this you'll at least be able to quickly and easily restore what you currently have from your backups.
But believe me, EasyBCD can be trusted to do exactly what you want to do... which is to create a 2-OS boot menu on your first drive's "system reserved" partition. This 2-OS boot menu will name BOTH of your two bootable Windows, from your two SSD drives. You won't need to push F12 to select the boot device, just let the machine go to the first drive in the boot sequence and kick off Boot Manager, and the rest will behave exactly as you are now seeking.
Let me know if you have questions. And for sure, let us know how it turns out.

B/w G3 with no system installed

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