Best security settings for Outdoor P2P with 1300 Bridges

Hello
I would like to hear from you otu there what are the best security setting for a P2P bridge outdoor link with two 1310 bridges. (with/without external Radius).
any input is very welcome
Oliver

From one standpoint, best security is achieved by powering the bridges off. You need to balance risk versus reward for any security decisions: How much security do you need, and how much work are you willing to put into it?
WPA-PSK is a pretty good solution for non-Radius implementations. PEAP, or LEAP with long nonsense passwords, are pretty good solutions for sites with AAA services. Another option is point-to-point VPN terminating on routers adjacent to your bridges.
Another option is not bothering with any security at all other than restricting your bridges from associating with anything besides each other. It just depends on what you need and how you want to get there.

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Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Best Security Settings for Mac Newbie

Hello
I'm new Mac user (OS X 10.9) and am still trying to get to grips with Apple's OS.
Hopefully this question won't have been asked too many times before! Sorry
In 'settings' - 'security & privacy', how should I configure it?
It's just me using the computer and I guess I'm an average home user and don't have anything particulaly sensitive on the laptop. I have encryted my 'financial stuff' folder into a .dmg file? Plus I don't tend to access or download any dodgy stuff, pirated software/music, etc, or ****.
But I obviously I still want to try to prevent hackers, viruses, malware, etc. When I used to have a windows computer I used to use 3rd security software. Do I need to purchase similar for my Mac, and if so any recommndations?
Regards Richard

1. This is a comment on what you should and should not do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to your computer, or who has been able to log in to it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandboxing security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're smarter than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some red flags that indicate danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent or Usenet.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website.
Rogue websites such as Softonic and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web popups.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
Software that you would otherwise have to pay for is "cracked" or "free."
An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
Unexpected events
You open what looks like a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file or message.
An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. New threats are emerging on a daily basis. Research has shown that most successful attacks are "zero-day" — that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based malware scanners do not defend against such attacks.
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not completely effective. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular trojan it is, but do you really care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless an institutional policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every unknown email attachment until proven otherwise.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. "Hmmmm, this torrent is a crack of that new game I want. I think I'll download it. It could be a trojan, but the antivirus will warn me if it is." Then they wonder why their Mac is so slow all of a sudden. It's slow because it's running flat out mining bitcoins for a hacker who has already sold their credit card number and banking passwords to a criminal gang. Maybe a week later the antivirus does warn them, but what good does that do?
Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

Security settings for CRM Integration with SharePoint

I have successfully integrated CRM 2015 and SharePoint 2013, both on-premise. I can see the SharePoint iframe on my CRM.
Next, is to set up the security. Only users with access to CRM record can access the respective SharePoint folders.
After I set up the security in SharePoint, i.e, by only giving permission to the specific folder and not the root site's Visitors group, the iframe on CRM side displays an error. It seems that the iframe is trying to access the root URL first, to which the
users don't have access, hence the error.
Am I missing something or is it not possible? Little explanation is given on MSDN about the security settings.
Another question, is there any plan for Microsoft to support server based integration for on-premise version?

crm does not give the rights through to sharepoint. u have the option to open sharepoint external with list component where you must take away the sharepoint rights and for us never a usefull option. We created custom application internal and did not published
sharepoint, we programmed so that documents are visible in iframe via a IIS website and looks to the logged-in user´s and only the documents are visible which belongs to his security role. its a lot of work but we found that it is also faster then the list
component.
gruss Daniel Ovadia MBSS - Microsoft Dynamics CRM MCNPS

Best Export settings for vid shot with iPhone5S

Hi, I have been reading the discussions and tried many settings but it all didn't work. The exported video is still choppy/jerky
Heres my situation. I have video clips that I have shot from my iPhone 5S (1080x1920) H.264.
In order to rotate the video orientation to 1920x1080 (portrait) without the black bars, I use iSkySoft video converter. (Should I skip this step and just use iMovie directly?)
After getting the video coverted to an mp4 file of smaller size, I do my editing in iMovie 11. Everything looks good, the preview looks good on my mac. But I cant seem to find the perfect settings to export the project so that there is no quality loss and no jerky/choppy motions in the video.
I've tried these settings for export:
video format: H.264,
data rate: 16000kbits/sec (overkill?)
optimized for: cd/dvd-rom
image size: custom (1080x1920)
frame rate: 30
Key frame: Every, 30 frames.
WIth these settings, the exported vid is slightly jerky.
I would like to know what would be the best way to edit my videos shot with my iPhone 5s, then export them without losing quality? I only need the videos to be on my mac. I dont have to upload it anywhere or get them on DVD.
Thank you very much in advance guys!!

You messed up. You should NOT have rendered MP4 out of Premiere to use in AE. You're adding compression and quality loss in between stages. BAD video person!
The easiest thing to do would be to import your Premiere project in AE. That way it can use the original footage too. If, for some reason, you can't do that, you should render a lossless file out of Premiere. Speaking of lossless files, that's what you rendered out of AE. This page explains your large AE file issue.
Anyway, take that large file you render out of AE into the Adobe Media Encoder and render out your final compressed file. Either H.264 or WMV should work well for playback.

Best Security Settings for iPhone?

I have a 3G iPhone with OS 4.0. I would like to use the wi-fi function in public locations. Just wanting to access internet for browsing and checking email. What are the best settings to protect hackers from getting my sensitive information such as contacts, notes, calendar, etc. that resides on the iPhone? I am new to OS 4.0 and the iPhone so any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated.

Currently there are no worms or viruses that can get into a non jailbroken iPhone. As for public WiFi, it is very easy for any person near it to read any and all data you are sending out or getting in even if encrypted just takes a tad more work for man in the middle attacks.
So don't do anything sensitive on any public wifi (iphone or laptop, etc).
Depending on mail server you check mail on, many pass passwords in the clear text.
But as for them getting to anything on your phone, they won't.

Security Settings for more

I saw this on a site that has many users in Iran
This setting does not harm anyone to use and useful
Or not.
Security Settings for more I With a simple trick for the Firefox browser you can always Certificate of forged and stolen check in Amman Even if all the fake certificate to get It is mentioned in the ability of the default browser is Chrome
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/2hxp0jo.jpg[/IMG]
(My choice when ocsp server connection fails, treat the certificate az invalid The chrome is not activated in your browser, you can enable this option, none of the sites Sites such as the bank's internal pull Vardsh Nmytvnyd) Message to your browser if the connection is untrusted or ocsp error gave me a few times to retry This message was repeated again Mlvmh Jlyh site certificate Gmail did not do anything and sit in. I think what Yahoo's Site of the National Bank The fake site, your freedom The main site of your freedom
2. Firefox and Chrome browsers, by default the system uses rc4 128 bit encodings The system according to security experts, is one of the weakest systems encodings I will use it only for high speed One of the reasons that the wep hack wireless internet use Hmynh But unlike wireless Internet connections that use wpa2 aes encodings system In theory you could perform any For more information, read this article I did not find any option in Chrome that I can disable this feature To disable this option in the Firefox browser, do the following operation about: config Type I rc4 All of the following options to make false Tqyyr
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/mbr51i.jpg[/IMG]

Check the file /etc/pam.d/sshd and /etc/pam.d/login.
Adjust the entry auth required pam_tally2.so deny=5 onerr=fail, as needed.
Modify deny= to the number of allowed failed attempts.
Refer to Mos Note 1269133.1 for details.

Best Settings for HD output with Still Photos and Audio?

I am creating a 1 minute audio presentation that I would like to add photos and text titles to. What are the best sequence settings for this?

Joe,
Thanks for your help. Would these be HDV settings, NTSC (?), PAL...etc?
I guess I just want it to look good. I'm a photographer and not a videographer so this is all new to me. I've just made some quick little videos (only about 4) in the past with Premiere. I'm much more familiar with Photoshop, but I thought this would be an easy project. I just don't want my photos to show up blurry. I'm in the US, so I think there is a difference for that with the NTSC and PAL settings, but I don't even know if I should use one of those or if it's one of the other endless options up there.
Are the ones you said just different sizes that the videos can be enlarged to and show clearly at an enlarged size? (Sort of like dpi?)

Need best security configuartion for ESA

Hi ,
I am looking for best security configuration for ESA as per the audit propose can any one help me out?

Now this depends, as each organization has different views and regulatory guidance based on the size and complexity of your environment. Much of this is in the first few planning phases of the admin guide of the ESA. It also depends on other objectives you wish to achieve. In this response I'm assuming basic layout, with the limited information you provided.
The ESA can be configured in a few different ways, think of the ESA as the firewall for your e-mail, and you can use an edge configuration. The benefits of this configuration is it simplifies configuration of the firewall, and better lays out how logically the ESA Ironport works for troubleshooting.
<Management Interface Optional> management network
<Interface 1> DMZ <limit incoming to ICMP/SMTP> <outgoing ICMP/DNS/SMPT>
<Interface 2> LAN <Limit to HTTP/HTTPS/SSH/LDAP/SMTP>
Some organizations do not like having edge servers on their network and do not want to implement a second DMZ. So they wish to keep it all on the DMZ. This is possible, but will require configuring a different port for SMTP such as 26 for your outgoing e-mail. This is so you can assign your outgoing listener to this port and leave the incoming port for SMTP 25 for the incoming e-mail.
<Interface 1> DMZ - rules are a little more intense as you will need to allow access for management and everything through this.
Now if you want to get into additional features:
- AMP
- AV Sophos/McAfee
- SPAM Filter Settings
- Content Filter
- Message Filter
- Outbreak
- SPF/DKIM/DMARC
- TLS/Email Encryption CRES
and so on....
Each of these features can take a lot of time to explain. I know Robert has a document he has been trying to share with us that has all the best settings to tweak.

What are the best optimization settings for Logic 9....

Hey guys,
I am running Logic 9 on a Macbook Pro 2.53GHz, Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, OSX 10.6.4, with a AK1 soundcard. And I was wondering what the best optimization settings for this setup are?
I have been having a few issues with drop outs in sound during playback, which is also carried over when i bounce the audio. I did some research and found my latency settings needed to be higher, so I set the I/O buffer size to 512. I am also running all samples from the local hdd, I was thinking maybe put the samples on an external drive. I also changed Logic 9 to 64bit mode.
Does anyone know if this is right and anything else I need to do with Logic and/or the AK1??

First, return to 32-bit mode. 64 bit still has some ß-issues and some features that are not working/disabled, and the only perk of 64-bit is that Logic can adress more than 4 GB RAM, which you don't have anyway.
Samples on the startup drive is not a problem, unless you start using really big third party sample libraries, or zillions of EXS instruments. Some of the Logic content insists on residing on the startup disk anyway, better leave that where it is.
If you have an external, use that to store your Logic projects, or, in other words, make it your recording disk (as recordings are stored in the project folder). You do record audio too, I assume? Anyway, if you get an external, make it a FireWire one, not USB. FireWire is much easier on the CPU, and +for audio (and sample-) streaming+ more reliable and faster than USB.
If dropouts you hear during playback also show up in the (offline?) bounce, it is probably not a buffer issue, as the buffer is irrelevant for bouncing offline.
So how many tracks and what kind of tracks in this project? Which plugins and how many instances of them?

Java WebDynpro's and IE security settings for file download

We have a EP 7.0 SP13 environment on which we have deployed a number of own developed java webdynpro's. In some of these webdynpro's we provide the file download functionality. The portal and webdynpro's are used by both internal personnel and external customers.
On the other hand the default Internet security settings for Internet Explorer, disable "Automatic prompting for file downloads".
When a user, with these default security settings active, tries to use our webdynpro's file download functionality, the screen seems to refreshes but no file download starts. When (s)he retries, the session runs for some minutes and gives following error message:
"com.sap.tc.webdynpro.services.session.LockException: Thread SAPEngine_Application_Thread[impl:3]_20 failed to acquire exclusive lock on client session ClientSession".
This behavior is explained in SAPNote 1234847. Webdynpro provides a single-thread module, meaning a user session is blocked for the during of the request. And because the previous file download isn't yet completed the new try can't start.
Issue now, although the users IE settings allow file downloads and don't block pop up's, he can't download the file and even isn't made aware of the cause of the failure.
How can we avoid this issue, without having to communicate the
application requires specific browser settings?

Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
See > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5290
You can install the program using different ways:
1. Right-click the application installer and choose Open.
2. Go to System Preferences > Security and Privacy and select Anywhere in Allow applications downloaded from

What are the best export settings for a HD video in Premier Pro CS4?

Hi!
   I've been having so much trouble with this issue and it's something that continually frustrates my boss. I have a HD video the settings for it are
FPS 23.98
1920 x 1080, then a few lines down it says 1408 x 792
16 bit,
2 channels
48000 Hz
   What should the settings be when I make a new sequence?
             When I look at it in the window in Premiere Pro I have to contantly 'shrink' the image to fit the window, is that something I should be doing or does it indicate the sequence settings are incorrect?
But more importantly what should the export settings be? I exported a 4 minute long video and the size was 1 GB, I know that's too big.
I need to export it without loosing any quality and export another one that meets the Youtube and Vimeo limits on size.
Vimeo is 500 MB per week, sometimes I upload 4 videos per week. I think Youtube you can only upload 500 MB at a time.
I need to get smaller sizes with loosing the least amount of quality possible AND the best export settings for quality, so I guess I have 3 separate questions-
What are the best sequence settings for HD video?
What are the best export settings for HD without loosing any quality?
What are the best export settings for the size to come out around 500 MB with loosing the least amount of quality possible?
Thank You!
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/713070
On the above thread I used the 5th anwer, and it's going to take about 7 hours to export a 4 minute video :/

It Stands for "Coder Decoder."
Your format is like a container for your video file. Certain containers can hold certain codecs and not others. Other containers can hold other codecs. Sometimes different containers can hold the same codecs.
This might be a bad analogy but I'll give it a try.
A coffe cup (container) can hold pretty much any liquid you drink, where a red solo cup (container) won't hold scolding water. So, the coffe cup would be your container of choice most likely because it has the most options for liquids (codecs). But, you might want a red solo cup for just a single crappy beer at a party (a moderate quality streaming video on the web). In that case, you don't need all the optoins of another container.
In Premiere Pro CC H.264 is a Container and the Codec in one option. This has been streamlined for web distrobution of video to be played in browsers without things like Flash or special players.
Were as if you choose the QuickTime Container there are over 40 codec optoins (at least on my machine with additinal ones installed) but you may run into an issue where your browser doesn't support QuickTime playback.
I would say that your container is for compatability with players and your codec is taken into consideration when looking at the quality of the compression.
Yesteraday I wrote a blog entery on Exporting from Premiere Pro and found that the MPEG-4 codec inside of the QuickTime container gave me much richer colors than the H.264 container/codec option.
I posted the link before but here it is:
http://goo.gl/8GZq4i

WRT54GP2 security settings for HP Ipaq 111 handheld

I have a home wireless network, using a Linksys WRT54GP2 wireless router. I'm trying to secure the network, with has 3 wireless systems, my home PC, a notebook, and my Ipaq 111. I can get my home PC and the notebook to work when I setup the WRT54GP2 router using Authentication: WPA-Pre-Shared Key and Data Encryption: TKIP, but the Ipaq 111 will not even see the router with any security setting. When the security settings for the Linksys Wireless Router WRT54GP2 are disabled the Ipaq 111 sees the router and connects to the internet.
The HP Ipaq 111 handheld has the following security options: Authentication: Open, Shared, WPA, WPA-PSK, WPA2, WPA2-PSK. Data Encryption: Disabled, WEP, TKIP, AES.
Does anyone have any ideas of how to get the Ipaq 111 to work on the secured Linksys WRT54GP2 router?
Thanks for any help.
John

On your Router setup page, Click on the Wireless tab and below change the Wireless Channel to 11-2.462GHz and click on Save Settings, then click on the Sub tab Advanced Wireless Settings and below Change the Beacon Interval to 75,Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304,Change the RTS Threshold to 2304 and Click on Save Settings...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect to it on your Ipaq.

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