What's the best security settings for publishing PDFs on the web while considering SEO still works

I want to protect my PDFs from people editing them and publishing them under their names, but I also want search engines to be able to scan it properly for SEO purposes. What's the best security settings to use for the PDF to accomplish both?
Thanks

I am currently using WD 2TB Thunderbolt hard drive for my iTunes, which i love and is works great. i am connected directly to my Mac Book Pro. I am running low on Memory and thinking of buying a bigger Hard drive. My question is should I buy 6TB thunderbolt HD or 6TB NAS drive to work solely for iTunes. I have home sharing enabled for my Apple TV
I also have my time capsule connected just as back up only.

Similar Messages

What are the best optimization settings for Logic 9....

Hey guys,
I am running Logic 9 on a Macbook Pro 2.53GHz, Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, OSX 10.6.4, with a AK1 soundcard. And I was wondering what the best optimization settings for this setup are?
I have been having a few issues with drop outs in sound during playback, which is also carried over when i bounce the audio. I did some research and found my latency settings needed to be higher, so I set the I/O buffer size to 512. I am also running all samples from the local hdd, I was thinking maybe put the samples on an external drive. I also changed Logic 9 to 64bit mode.
Does anyone know if this is right and anything else I need to do with Logic and/or the AK1??

First, return to 32-bit mode. 64 bit still has some ß-issues and some features that are not working/disabled, and the only perk of 64-bit is that Logic can adress more than 4 GB RAM, which you don't have anyway.
Samples on the startup drive is not a problem, unless you start using really big third party sample libraries, or zillions of EXS instruments. Some of the Logic content insists on residing on the startup disk anyway, better leave that where it is.
If you have an external, use that to store your Logic projects, or, in other words, make it your recording disk (as recordings are stored in the project folder). You do record audio too, I assume? Anyway, if you get an external, make it a FireWire one, not USB. FireWire is much easier on the CPU, and +for audio (and sample-) streaming+ more reliable and faster than USB.
If dropouts you hear during playback also show up in the (offline?) bounce, it is probably not a buffer issue, as the buffer is irrelevant for bouncing offline.
So how many tracks and what kind of tracks in this project? Which plugins and how many instances of them?

What are the best export settings for a HD video in Premier Pro CS4?

Hi!
   I've been having so much trouble with this issue and it's something that continually frustrates my boss. I have a HD video the settings for it are
FPS 23.98
1920 x 1080, then a few lines down it says 1408 x 792
16 bit,
2 channels
48000 Hz
   What should the settings be when I make a new sequence?
             When I look at it in the window in Premiere Pro I have to contantly 'shrink' the image to fit the window, is that something I should be doing or does it indicate the sequence settings are incorrect?
But more importantly what should the export settings be? I exported a 4 minute long video and the size was 1 GB, I know that's too big.
I need to export it without loosing any quality and export another one that meets the Youtube and Vimeo limits on size.
Vimeo is 500 MB per week, sometimes I upload 4 videos per week. I think Youtube you can only upload 500 MB at a time.
I need to get smaller sizes with loosing the least amount of quality possible AND the best export settings for quality, so I guess I have 3 separate questions-
What are the best sequence settings for HD video?
What are the best export settings for HD without loosing any quality?
What are the best export settings for the size to come out around 500 MB with loosing the least amount of quality possible?
Thank You!
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/713070
On the above thread I used the 5th anwer, and it's going to take about 7 hours to export a 4 minute video :/

It Stands for "Coder Decoder."
Your format is like a container for your video file. Certain containers can hold certain codecs and not others. Other containers can hold other codecs. Sometimes different containers can hold the same codecs.
This might be a bad analogy but I'll give it a try.
A coffe cup (container) can hold pretty much any liquid you drink, where a red solo cup (container) won't hold scolding water. So, the coffe cup would be your container of choice most likely because it has the most options for liquids (codecs). But, you might want a red solo cup for just a single crappy beer at a party (a moderate quality streaming video on the web). In that case, you don't need all the optoins of another container.
In Premiere Pro CC H.264 is a Container and the Codec in one option. This has been streamlined for web distrobution of video to be played in browsers without things like Flash or special players.
Were as if you choose the QuickTime Container there are over 40 codec optoins (at least on my machine with additinal ones installed) but you may run into an issue where your browser doesn't support QuickTime playback.
I would say that your container is for compatability with players and your codec is taken into consideration when looking at the quality of the compression.
Yesteraday I wrote a blog entery on Exporting from Premiere Pro and found that the MPEG-4 codec inside of the QuickTime container gave me much richer colors than the H.264 container/codec option.
I posted the link before but here it is:
http://goo.gl/8GZq4i

What is the best security lock for a 17" mac book pro?

Hello Folks! Happy holidays!
Quick question:
What is the best security lock for a 17" mac book pro?
Any models or brands ?
Cheers!

Most computers refer to the locking attachment in some relationship to the name "Kensington", and that might be a useful clue.
Following that, be sure to avoid counterfeit products. A well-known computer vendor (not Apple), was approached by a large purchaser (several tens of thousands of laptops) who insisted on using a counterfeit locking product that had a larger than normal locking tab. The vendor modified the tooling to accept the counterfeit product and, wouldn't you know it, the genuine product would no longer secure the computer properly.

What is the best security system for a Mac?

I am curious as to what is the best security system for a Mac. Is it Norton or something else? I have a Macbook Pro with Lion and I want to make sure I avoid all of the viruses and malware out there.

Hi c,
General consensus here is to stay far, far away from Norton, and that most anti-malware software for Mac causes more issues than they will ever avoid.
Most Mac users run bare.
I still haven't seen anything in the wild, no OS X virus really going beyond proof of concept; some malware, yes, but not a virus. And the existing malware requires users to "open the door" and basically tell the malware it's ok to do its thing. I'm not sure there'll ever be software which can overcome the actions of such a user.
For those who feel the need, ClamX has been often suggested.

What is the best security lock for the new 21 inch imac?

I want to know what is the best security lock for the new 21 inch imac?

Most computers refer to the locking attachment in some relationship to the name "Kensington", and that might be a useful clue.
Following that, be sure to avoid counterfeit products. A well-known computer vendor (not Apple), was approached by a large purchaser (several tens of thousands of laptops) who insisted on using a counterfeit locking product that had a larger than normal locking tab. The vendor modified the tooling to accept the counterfeit product and, wouldn't you know it, the genuine product would no longer secure the computer properly.

What is the best security package for an imac using yosimity

What is the best security package for an imac using Yosimity

Mac users often ask whether they should install "anti-virus" software. The answer usually given on ASC is "no." The answer is right, but it may give the wrong impression that there is no threat from what are loosely called "viruses." There is a threat, and you need to educate yourself about it.
1. This is a comment on what you should—and should not—do to protect yourself from malicious software ("malware") that circulates on the Internet and gets onto a computer as an unintended consequence of the user's actions. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the computer, or who has been able to take control of it remotely. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it.
The comment is long because the issue is complex. The key points are in sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user. Internally Apple calls it "XProtect."
The malware recognition database used by XProtect is automatically updated; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
☞ It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
☞ It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
As new versions of OS X are released, it's not clear whether Apple will indefinitely continue to maintain the XProtect database of older versions such as 10.6. The security of obsolete system versions may eventually be degraded. Security updates to the code of obsolete systems will stop being released at some point, and that may leave them open to other kinds of attack besides malware.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
☞ It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
☞ A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
☞ An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
Apple has taken far too long to revoke the codesigning certificates of some known abusers, thereby diluting the value of Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. Those lapses don't involve App Store products, however.
For the reasons given, App Store products, and—to a lesser extent—other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. Sandbox security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is effective against known threats, but not against unknown ones. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. The built-in security features of OS X reduce the risk of malware attack, but they are not, and never will be, complete protection. Malware is a problem of human behavior, not machine behavior, and no technological fix alone is going to solve it. Trusting software to protect you will only make you more vulnerable.
The best defense is always going to be your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "Trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and Internet criminals. If you're better informed than they think you are, you'll win. That means, in practice, that you always stay within a safe harbor of computing practices. How do you know when you're leaving the safe harbor? Below are some warning signs of danger.
Software from an untrustworthy source
☞ Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, doesn't come directly from the developer’s website. Do not trust an alert from any website to update Flash, or your browser, or any other software. A genuine alert that Flash is outdated and blocked is shown on this support page. Follow the instructions on the support page in that case. Otherwise, assume that the alert is fake and someone is trying to scam you into installing malware. If you see such alerts on more than one website, ask for instructions.
☞ Software of any kind is distributed via BitTorrent, or Usenet, or on a website that also distributes pirated music or movies.
☞ Rogue websites such as Softonic, Soft32, and CNET Download distribute free applications that have been packaged in a superfluous "installer."
☞ The software is advertised by means of spam or intrusive web ads. Any ad, on any site, that includes a direct link to a download should be ignored.
Software that is plainly illegal or does something illegal
☞ High-priced commercial software such as Photoshop is "cracked" or "free."
☞ An application helps you to infringe copyright, for instance by circumventing the copy protection on commercial software, or saving streamed media for reuse without permission. All "YouTube downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily malicious.
Conditional or unsolicited offers from strangers
☞ A telephone caller or a web page tells you that you have a “virus” and offers to help you remove it. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
☞ A web site offers free content such as video or music, but to use it you must install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "downloader," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one.
☞ You win a prize in a contest you never entered.
☞ Someone on a message board such as this one is eager to help you, but only if you download an application of his choosing.
☞ A "FREE WI-FI !!!" network advertises itself in a public place such as an airport, but is not provided by the management.
☞ Anything online that you would expect to pay for is "free."
Unexpected events
☞ A file is downloaded automatically when you visit a web page, with no other action on your part. Delete any such file without opening it.
☞ You open what you think is a document and get an alert that it's "an application downloaded from the Internet." Click Cancel and delete the file. Even if you don't get the alert, you should still delete any file that isn't what you expected it to be.
☞ An application does something you don't expect, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
☞ Software is attached to email that you didn't request, even if it comes (or seems to come) from someone you trust.
I don't say that leaving the safe harbor just once will necessarily result in disaster, but making a habit of it will weaken your defenses against malware attack. Any of the above scenarios should, at the very least, make you uncomfortable.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it—not JavaScript—in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a padlock icon in the address bar when visiting a secure site.
Stay within the safe harbor, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" (AV) or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they are all worse than useless. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free security apps in the Mac App Store—nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial AV products?
☞ To recognize malware, the software depends on a database of known threats, which is always at least a day out of date. This technique is a proven failure, as a major AV software vendor has admitted. Most attacks are "zero-day"—that is, previously unknown. Recognition-based AV does not defend against such attacks, and the enterprise IT industry is coming to the realization that traditional AV software is worthless.
☞ Its design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere. In order to meet that nonexistent threat, commercial AV software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
☞ By modifying the operating system, the software may also create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
☞ Most importantly, a false sense of security is dangerous.
8. An AV product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," has the same drawback as the commercial suites of being always out of date, but it does not inject low-level code into the operating system. That doesn't mean it's entirely harmless. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An AV app is not needed, and cannot be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful, if at all, only for detecting Windows malware, and even for that use it's not really effective, because new Windows malware is emerging much faster than OS X malware.
Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else. A malicious attachment in email is usually easy to recognize by the name alone. An actual example:
London Terror Moovie.avi [124 spaces] Checked By Norton Antivirus.exe
You don't need software to tell you that's a Windows trojan. Software may be able to tell you which trojan it is, but who cares? In practice, there's no reason to use recognition software unless an organizational policy requires it. Windows malware is so widespread that you should assume it's in every email attachment until proven otherwise. Nevertheless, ClamXav or a similar product from the App Store may serve a purpose if it satisfies an ill-informed network administrator who says you must run some kind of AV application. It's free and it won't handicap the system.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have all the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user, you don't have to live in fear that your computer may be infected every time you install software, read email, or visit a web page. But neither can you assume that you will always be safe from exploitation, no matter what you do. Navigating the Internet is like walking the streets of a big city. It can be as safe or as dangerous as you choose to make it. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

What is the best export settings for mini DV?

Hi folks,
Love this forum, it has been a huge help for a novice. I am looking for answers to a more tailored question. I believe this will help others too!
What are the best export settings for mini DVs (now in mov format) for the following uses and how do I input these settings:
1. archive an exact duplicate without any quality loss of an imported mini DV tape. My goal is to have the best quality/duplicate archived digital version of the original mini DV tape for later editing/use?
2. the best quality version of the mini dv tape for viewing on media devices such as WDLive, boxee box, pivos xios, etc?
I really appreciate you reading and considering response.

First, I do NOT write back to tape... so only have a few saved links with no personal experience... but my "general" understanding is that you simply play your timeline with Firewire output active and press the record button on your tape deck
2nd, read below for a "trick" that is required to export to tape
Export to Tape http://forums.adobe.com/message/4699448
Hardware MPE must be OFF to be able to export via Firewire
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/902499
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/880824
Also CS6 http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1016269

What are the best sequence settings for a movie to be put on youtube?

I am making a video that consists of mainly jpegs and audio. The final movie needs to be crisp and fairly high resolution because the pictures have some house plans that need to be easily read.
I have tried the following settings only to get a blurry image result in the end:
Frame Size: 960x720 Aspect Ratio: HD (960x720) (16:9)
Pixel Aspect Ratio: NTSC - CCIR 601 DV 720X480
Editing Timebase: 29.97
Quicktime Video Settings:
Compressor DVCPRO50 - NTSC
Quality: 100%
This seems to me like it should be a crisp enough image result but the end result is very poor. When I use the H.264 Compressor instead of DVCPRO50 - NTSC, the image is much sharper but the faded transitions are sometimes choppy, and you have to render the timeline with each change you make. Please help me find the best overall settings for smooth editing and sharper image.
Thanks,
Caleb

Your settings -- between the Compressor, Pixel Aspect Ratio and Frame Size -- are oil-and-water.
If this is going to YouTube (meaning not going to be viewed on traditional TVs) and it's mainly Photos, try using this:
Frame Size: 1280x720
Aspect Ratio: HDTV 720p
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square
Editing Timebase: 29.97
Compressor: Motion JPEG A
Quality: 100% (though in a lot of cases, you could drag this down to about 75-80% and quality will not suffer)
Unfortunately, you won't get much (if any) real-time effects. Unless, of course, you're on FCP 6 or later, where you can use a ProRes compressor instead. But with your signature saying 10.4. something, I wasn't sure if it was safe to assume that. The Motion-JPEG setting should work in all versions.

Best security settings for Outdoor P2P with 1300 Bridges

Hello
I would like to hear from you otu there what are the best security setting for a P2P bridge outdoor link with two 1310 bridges. (with/without external Radius).
any input is very welcome
Oliver

From one standpoint, best security is achieved by powering the bridges off. You need to balance risk versus reward for any security decisions: How much security do you need, and how much work are you willing to put into it?
WPA-PSK is a pretty good solution for non-Radius implementations. PEAP, or LEAP with long nonsense passwords, are pretty good solutions for sites with AAA services. Another option is point-to-point VPN terminating on routers adjacent to your bridges.
Another option is not bothering with any security at all other than restricting your bridges from associating with anything besides each other. It just depends on what you need and how you want to get there.

What are the best wireless settings for a WRT160N v2?

I am trying to find out what the best wireless settings are for the WRT160N v2 to have the best connection with my PC (WUSB600N) and my PS3 gaming console. Are there any suggestions on which channel I should be using, etc? My PC and PS3 are about 30ft from the router and unfortunately, I cannot move the router. I have really no obstructions from PC and PS3 to the router, but signal strength is low. If anyone can enlighten me, I would much appreciate it.
Thanks for your help!

Here are some settings which you can set on your Router, and i think this should solve all the problem. As this is the same settings which i have set on my Router and its working perfectly fine.
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on your wired computer(desktop).In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1 and press Enter...
Leave username blank & in password use admin in lower case...
For Wireless Settings, please do the following : -
Click on the Wireless tab
-Here select manual configuration...Wireless Network mode should be mixed...
-Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box in order to differentiate your network from your neighbours network...
- Set the Radio Band to Wide-40MHz and change the Wide channel to 9 and Standard Channel to 11-2.462GHz...Wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on save settings...
Please make a note of Wireless Network Name (SSID) as this is the Network Identifier...
For Wireless Security : -
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...
Change the Wireless security mode to WPA, For Encryption, select AES...For Passphrase input your desired WPA Key. For example , MySecretKey , This will serve as your network key whenever you connect to your wireless network. Do NOT give this key to anyone.
NOTE : Passphrase should be more that 8 characters...
Click on Advanced Wireless Settings
Change the Beacon Interval to 75 >>Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304 Change the RTS Threshold to 2307 >>Click on "Save Settings"...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...

What are the best import settings for iTunes - AAC 160 / AAC 192 / MP3??

Hi I originally imported all my treasured CDs to iTunes several years ago, and they've served me well (AAC 128 - default setting) but in recent times hard-drive sizes have trebled and my much loved iTunes Library has not been updated.
I am thinking of re-importing all of my original CDs - as I think now that hard-drive space would allow for a higher quality but at the same time I do not want to fill my hard-drive completely with music - hence my question;
WHAT ARE THE BEST IMPORT SETTINGS CONSIDERING SIZE AND QUALITY?
(I know this has probably been asked a million times, but I did a search and nothing came up that answered my Q - also all the answers that came up in Google search where dated 2003/ 2004 - a little out-dated me thinks!!)
Rachael

Personally I've started ripping everything Apple Lossless. That way I hope I never have to rip again.
I used to rip 320 mp3. I couldn't tell the difference between 320 mp3 and lossless, but, one day I might be able to - big maybe. But since disk price is not likely to go up, I figured I'd rip lossless from now on "just in case."
Probably few, if any, people could tell the difference between 256 AAC and lossless (I've done it at 192, but never at 256, and I have not bothered trying again recently - there might be a song out there where I could hear the difference, hence ripping lossless from now on - my time costs more than disk space . . .)
256 AAC is a pretty safe bet, unless you need mp3 compatibility, then use 256 (or 320) mp3.

What are the best security practices for your forms and databases

What are some of the best security practices to follow to
ensure your database isn't attacked with injections, forms abused
with snippets of code, and mass spam DB inserts on your
forms?

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:17:01 +0000 (UTC), "jsteinmann"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>What are some of the best security practices to follow to
ensure your database isn't attacked with injections, forms abused
with snippets of code, and mass spam DB inserts on your forms?
David Powers books on php for Dw give detailed advice on how
to do
forms, first with html, and then validate them with secure
php
scripts.
http://foundationphp.com/
~Malcolm N....
~

What are the best export settings for TV?

I'm making a video that i would like to have on TV and would most likely go through iDVD, i have a Panasonic mini-dv camcorder and all my footage is in 4:3. What would be the best export settings to accomplish this?
thanks,
rob

From FCE, export a QuickTime Movie (do not use QT Conversion). If you'll create the DVD on the same machine, leave the "Make Movie Self-Contained" box unchecked for a quicker export. Drag the resulting QuickTime file into iDVD.

CS3 - What Are the Best Export Settings for Animation?

I have edited a project in Premiere Pro CS3. It is animated, and I want to preserve as much of the quality of the animation as I can.
What are the best possible settings that I can use to export the video to a .MOV file?
A little background info, in case it helps:
The animations were created in After Effects, and the .MOV files were made with the Animation codec.
After editing in Premiere, I exported the finished file to the Animation codec. It looks so-so.
Important: I imported the Premiere Project into After Effects, and exported the project with After Effects. The After Effects Quicktime file looks better than the Premiere version of the Quicktime file. (And has a higher data rate, in case that matters.)
What kind of settings do I need to select in Premiere when I export the video to make the .MOV file look as good as it can?
(And please don't be afraid to dumb it down.)
Thx!

Try an Uncompressed "QT" file. (Component YUV - 10-bit)
BTW: Did your PPRO Settings match the AEFX Comp you exported from?

What's the best security settings for publishing PDFs on the web while considering SEO still works

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