Board won't power up

I have a biostar P4VMAM motherboard with intel pentium 4 3.2 processor and was having trouble reseting the board when all of a sudden the board would not power up. now to get it to do anything I have to disconnect the power cord from the power supply for maybe 15 to 20 sec. then when I plug it back in and try to power up it comes on for less then a sec. the goes off. I know the power supply is good because I'm using it wth another board and it work just fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
birdaug

You have to contact BIOSTAR Support about your issue.
Here is MSI Forum.
P.S: Topic locked since product is not MSI.

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945GCM478 board won't power up

I have a 954GCM478 board that will not power up. I receive no post codes.
I have tested the following:
1) power supply with a power supply tester.
2) 2nd (spare) power supply.
3) Verified CMOS battery is good and replaced with known good batteries.
4) Tested in case with minimal configuration (video, ram, CPU/cooler).
5) Bench tested with CPU/cooler and ram.
6) Cleared CMOS and retested it all again.
In each of the tests, nothing happens. No post codes and the CPU fan doesn't start up.
I believe the MB or CPU to be at fault, however, I don't have extra supplies of those to verify.
Note: The system had been running for 6-9 months until last night when it just spontaneously powered off.

Quote from: Jack the Newbie on 19-December-08, 06:20:14
Please provide full and accurate system specifications. Read the >>Posting Guide<< to get an idea of what we need to know.
Look on the CPU itself, there should be useful information on it to help identify which model your are using (that may make it necessary to remove the heatsink). What if you have a model that is not supported in the first place?
What brand/model of RAM do you use?
What kind of video card do you have installed (brand/model)?
Does anyone read these posts first and try to understand what is being provided. THERE ARE NO POST CODES. THERE IS NO RAM/VIDEO installed (ie, it doesnt matter what brands they are). If the MB was working correctly there would be a post code for missing ram/video IF IT WAS GETTING THAT FAR IN THE POST process.
Another worthless forum, for a worthless product. Time to just get a replacement MB/MEMORY and not support MSI anymore. Back to Gigabyte for me.

Board won't power on IF atx 12v is plugged

I was trying to switch cpu fans. The pc booted and froze during POST. The pc wouldn't turn on afterwards.
MS-6777
The current situation is:
No device connected to the mobo, not even CPU.
I took the mobo out the pc-case to avoid any shortages.
I can manage to turn it on WITHOUT atx 12v. If I plug ATX 12V computer won't turn on, fans move a little bit but stop.
thanks for your time.

for other helpers sake, please use the 'marketing name' of your board instead of the MS-xxxx number to identify your board
in your case, MS-6777 is the 'K7N2GM-L'
Is your problem caused by your PSU?
Clear CMOS Guide
Make sure your heatsink is rated for your CPU, and is seated correctly:
and in order to POST correctly, your mobo needs at least a CPU and one stick of memory...

IBook G3 800mhz powers & starts up, after a shutdown it won't power up

One day my iBook G3 800mhz was working fine. I shut it down and later went to turn it on and it wouldn't do anything... no startup chime, no fans, no lights, nothing. I tried resetting PRAM, PMU, and many other things which didn't work at all.
I had a local computer store check it out and they told me the Motherboard was fried. I pretty much wrote the iBook off as DEAD. I took the battery out and it sat that way for about a month.
Today, I put the battery back in and hit the power button, and IT POWERED UP & BOOTED! I couldn't believe it. I shut it down and hit the power button again... nothing, it was "dead" again. I took the battery out and let it sit that way for about 2 hours, put the battery back in, pushed the power button and it BOOTED JUST FINE. So, I shut it down, pushed the power button and it was "dead." I took the battery out again, let it sit for an hour. This time instead of installing the battery I just connected the power adapter, pressed the power button and it BOOTED. To determine if it was the battery, I left the power adapter plugged in, shut down the iBook and pressed the power button... NOTHING, "dead" again. So, it's not the battery, it's not the power cord.
When I do get it booted, I am able to do a succesful Restart by selecting it in the Finder. Also, whenever it does power up, I am able to reset the PRAM and it will start up. Whenever I do a Shutdown (either from the Finder or by pressing the power button) it won't power up unless I disconnect the battery and power adapter and let it sit for about an hour.
I've been through all the forums and many websites and have yet to find a fix for this problem.
Anyone have any ideas?

Hey Shim..,
Certified Apple Technician and he agreed that it is probably the transistor (what he called it) that is failing, since it's not holding Date & Time
OK but a transistor is a long way from a microprocessor. Uhh where did he get his...oh never mind.
I have read in some forums about the leaking super cap,
I'd be interested in those leads
but I haven't been able to find any photos or anything that shows where on the board this is located.
Just put one up here, it's from a 12" G4 1.2 GHz:
http://www.photolava.com/view/d5pr.html
They're pretty distinctive, so hard to miss.
Here's the blowed up one from the 500MHz 12" G3
http://www.photolava.com/view/d5pu.html
Now that's blowed up
Is this cap replaceable? Anyone know of any step-by-step guide that would show how to go about this, or know of any company that might do this sort of thing? If it's not too terribly expensive, I'd be willing to give it a try.
Well let's determine if it's bad first. Usually when these things fail it's pretty obvious.
I'd try blowing out all the chips we talked about first since I believe a tiny bit of smutz will cause a CMOS micro to crash.
It reminds me of when these early PMUs will crash and drag the battery down with it in a matter of days vs years.
One of the resets in those was to remove all power and let it sit just like you're doing here. This was called resetting the logic board and was SOP for a no startup situation.
Richard

Computer Won't Power Up

After a BIOS update that went wrong, I received my mobo a few days ago from MSI. I re-assembled my computer 4 days ago, but started having random crashes. Today I decided to test the memory. When running memtest86 the pc just powered off unexpectedly. I switched it back on again, but after a few minutes it shut off again. This time for good.
I disconnected the power cable and plugged it back in. 4 red lights on the D-bracket flashed, the PSU, CPU, Northbridge and case fans moved slightly and then all went dead. I didn't hear any beeps or other sounds. This response lasted less than a second. Same thing happens if I turn off and on the PSU's power switch. The case power switch generates no response at all.
Here is what I've tried already:
- Cleared the CMOS - No changes
- Striped everything, leaving only the CPU, and then re-assembled one component at a time and powered on and off the PSU after re-assembling each component - No changes
- Unplugged the case's power switch cable and direct contacted the 2 pins with a screw driver (to check if the problem was with the case's power switch) - No changes
Any thoughts?

Quote from: NovJoe on 23-July-05, 17:25:56
Exactly Bass, I hope that it wasn't a Windows flash...
That's exactly what it was. However, I got the pc running for 4 days after MSI solved the BIOS problem. After the power up problem I took the pc to the my local tech service and they said it won't power up because the board is dead. Everything else works OK when instaled on another board.
Blazer, I took the battery out and inserted it again but that didn't fix anything. I have no multimeter, so I couldn't test the battery. How long do these batteries last? My pc is 1 1/2 years old (running 24h a day, 7 days a week).

Power mac g4 Model 8570 won't power on

A few months ago I installed Leopard on my g4 tower and since then I've been having power problems. I realized I pulled the wrong power cord in when I set everything back up, so I figured that waws the problem, thinking it was an issue of not drawing enough power; however, the problem has persisted. It used to be that I'd have to press the power button a couple of times for it to really take, then it was taking longer and longer to make that happen. Now it just won't power on at all. We popped the battery out for a bit, unplugged everything, and then re-assembled it but that didn't work. I keep reading about a pmu button or something, but I don't see anything like that and none of the diagrams on here match my logic board. can any one suggest what I can try? does my model even have a pmu button? I'm not that seasoned at trouble-shooting the hardware so any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks so much, this was incredibly helpful! Unfortunately it didn't fix the problem tho. Is there anything else you would suggest I try before replacing the battery? I want to try all options before having to buy a new battery, and also whatever I can do before having to take it in somewhere (not having a car makes that a difficult task). Thanks again!

Power mac G5 2004 won't power on

Hello all,
my Power mac G5 June 2004, won't power on at all. I've changed the logic board, power supply, dual processors, front panel board, and front panel board cable. Still getting the same results. The only thing I could think of next is the power button.
Please help!!!
M-One

m-one
No more wise guy stuff then.
If you have tried and thus eliminated everything else, then perhaps it is indeed the power button.
However, are you perfectly certain that it can be nothing else? Were all of the parts that you used for troubleshooting purposes from some other Mac or from some kit or did you purchase them or what?
Sometimes it can be more than one thing. And at different times. I am not sure exactly what the minimum configuration for a boot-up is but perhaps search for that and see what pops up. Reduce it to that and try it.
If you have a working Mac from which these replacement parts are coming it is not high on my list of favorite strategies but you can try plugging the suspect components into the working Mac one at a time until you find the culprit.
Are there any parts that you replace that require you to press the SMU reset although you have done it once? Perhaps a call to Apple or again search on that for suggestions.
Luck-
-DaddyPaycheck

HELP! My Macbook Air won't power on!!

I have plugged it up and the power cord's light is green. It has ben a week and it still won't power on. What do I do now?

Were you able to find a solution... My wife's Air is doing the same thing I have tried all the KB suggestions of key combinations etc.. The power supply is green but the Macbook Air will NOT power on. Frustrated because I have a Dell laptop and never have had any problems as this Mac. So far she has had the Hard Drive fo so we replaced with a SSD $145... Then the hinges went $150... Then the LCD went $150 now it will not power on... from the looks of things it could be the Logic Board $850. There is no way I am sinking more money into this inferior product... I think Apple should be replacing this free of charge...This was all after the warranty was up...
Let me know if your problem has been resolved...
Message was edited by: MTCca

15" MacBook pro won't power up

I'm using a 15" MacBook pro from July 08 running snow leopard. When I went to recently turn it on I realized the battery had died since the last time I used it. After letting the battery charge up to at least 2-3 lights and keeping it plugged in, I tried to power up. When I push the power and release, the fans and drives start then shut off instantly. If I keep the power pushed in it stays on until the light on the front latch starts to blink and everything shuts off. I tried with only battery, only power adapter but no luck. I followed every step on apple's troubleshooting page for a MacBook that won't power up but nothing has changed. I will take my computer to the apple store if need be, but I'd rather be able to fix this myself.
Any help?

What were all the steps you tried to do? Some people say this but they don't do everything because everything is not in the book:
Reset the SMC:
-Pull the battery
-Unplug the MagSafe adapter
-Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds then release
-Wait 5 seconds
-Put the battery back in
-Plug in the power
If the SMC reset does not resolve the issue make an appointment most likely you are having a hardware issue and probably need to replace your logic board.

MacBook won't power on, even when plugged in

Not sure what's going on. My white MB is my secondary computer, I've only had it for a few months. I brought it on a trip a couple of weeks ago and it was fine. It's been packed up in its case since I've been home, so I'm sure the battery is probably dead. I took it out today, and plugged it in, but it won't power up. Even if the battery is dead, shouldn't it turn on when it's plugged in?
I get nothing...no sound, no flicker, no nothing. Help? I have an Apple store close by, so that's not a problem...just want to make sure I'm not missing something dumb before I head over there.
-SB

The Apple store called this morning and confirmed it was the logic board that went bad, and that it was fixed and ready to be picked up. I stopped by to get it after work and I'm back up and running again...and I couldn't be more pleased with how Apple handled the whole process. Less than 24 hours from the time I dropped it off to the time it was fixed and ready for pickup.
Kudos to the San Tan Village Apple Store in Gilbert, AZ!!
-SB
Message was edited by: SisterBlue

K7T266 Pro won't power on

I have a new (used) K7T266 Pro that won't power on. Could this be caused by JBAT1 being in the clear position? The manual shows JBAT1 but the board actually has two jumpers on it right next to each other. Can't tell which one is JBAT1. What does the other jumper do? It's not listed in the manual. I tried with working Athlon XP 1600+ and PC2100 RAM. I also tried with no CPU and no RAM. Thought I'd at least get some beeps. No luck. Any ideas?

Quote from: zillafan on 27-October-06, 03:00:15
Thanks for the info. The board has two seperate jumper blocks on it. Both with 3 pins. They are very close to each other. The manual only references one jumper though (JBAT1) By looking at the board it hard to tell which one is JBAT1. Not sure what the other one does.
Thanks again.
It is often very difficult to see the markings on a board, especially if the board it mounted in the case. I have a pair of magnifying glasses and a high powered flashlight for just such occations. See if you can download the manual from MSI and open it on your computer. You may then be able to zoom in on the picture to see more details.
Some manuals even gray out the items that are not of much interest in order to highlight the ones that are. You can sometimes find the exact location from the various landmarks on the board. Usually it is easy to spot various chipsets, connectors, etc. to find your place. It is like reading a map, except for the roads, lol.

Macbook won't power up

I have a Macbook Air 11inches, Late 2010 model. I haven't use it for a couple of months. When I decided to use it, it won't power up. I used different adapter still no luck. I notice that the adapter has a low green light, not the kind of light that I have seen before. I brought my MBA to some techie who knows apple they said I have a busted battery. I am still confuse, though its already 1 year and half old since bought it but I didn't remember if I drained the battery or something. All I know the last time I used it, I properly shutdown my MBA before I leave in its proper place. Please help, I really need my MBA now..

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
With the charger plugged, does the Mac turn on? If not, it's possible that the logic board has failed. If that's the case, it will be an expensive repair.
The green battery indicates that the battery is full, but if your Mac doesn't turn on with the charger plugged, it's not a battery issue

Good Ol' G4 12" won't power up - weirdness.

I know this is sooo 2003 but I wanted to see if any geniuses out there might offer some insight...
My trusty old 12" Powerbook 867 (god I loved that machine) died last night, just as I'm getting ready to give it to my 10 yr. old nephew. I got some great mileage out of this machine and am hoping I can save it to give it just a bit more life...
As it was getting old, I have been putting up with occasional tired wake-ups and power issues. Most significantly, it suffers from a heavily dented corner right where the power plugs in, and therefore from a very unstable connection, resulting in constant checking to make sure the unit is getting power.
Recently, I've been noticing that although the connection is intact , I never see the power indicator ring light turn from green to orange - even when it obviously needs charging from constant disconnects.
Anyway, at some point last night she went into a deep sleep (the little light near the front latch pulses gently and no key combination would wake her), so I pulled the battery out and put it back in, hoping a hard reset would at least let her start back up.
Now, the machine won't power up at all, and the power connection ring indication is green. Both batteries I have for it give me the rapid blinking dead signal, so it looks like I have no way to power it back up.
I've tried resetting the PMU to no avail. (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1431?viewlocale=en_US)
My hunch is that the power management circuitry is dead, and that my best bet would be to replace the DC-in board, as suggested here: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Wiki/PowerBookG4_Aluminum_12%22_Troubleshooting#Section_My_PowerBook_won_t_turnon
Before I spend hours taking this little baby apart, does anyone have any other suggestions? Could it be the power supply not working properly (and somehow giving a false green light indication?) Any other ideas out there??
Thank you so much in advance.

Because you say the corner where the power cord plugs in has been heavily damaged and contact with the plug is iffy, a bad DC-in card (possibly caused by something on it shorting out against the dented case, or possibly by breakage of one or more of the port's contacts with the card) is by far the most likely suspect.
Getting to the card in that model is no joke: it requires a total disassembly of the machine.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repair/Installing-PowerBook-G4-Aluminum-12-Inch-867- MHz-DC-In-Board/214/1

MacPro a1186 won't power up. Trickle Power Only

MacPro a1186 won't power up. when pressing the serv_diag botton, i only get one yellow light (indicating trickle power). the final diagnosis from the service source manual (sections are included below) is less clear to me. if i only get trickle power to the logic board, and the power connections check out, is it the power supply or logic board failure? could it be something else?
Power Supply Verification
To power on, the computer’s logic board requires “trickle” power. If the system fails to power on, first reset the SMC as described in this chapter. If the computer still doesn’t power on, follow the procedure outlined below to determine whether the issue is related to the power supply.
Verify trickle power
Diagnostic LED 2 indicates the presence of trickle power required by the logic board to begin the startup process.
LED 2 should be yellow when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that trickle voltage is present.
Verify Power Supply Is Providing Power
Diagnostic LED 8 indicates that the main power is OK and within regulation.
Plug in AC power cord, and press the power-on button on the front panel.
LED 8 should be green when the DIAG_ LED button is pressed, indicating that the main power is OK and within regulation.
If diagnostic LED 5 and LED 6 are both solidly illuminated at power up, improperly seated power supply cables could be one cause of this behavior. Check all power supply cable connections to ensure they are properly seated.
Startup Failures
Power-on LED does not illuminate when power button is pressed, fans do not spin, and there is no boot tone or video
Verify power outlet is good. 1.
Check that diagnostic LED 2 is on when the power cord is connected.2.
Replace power cord. 3.
Check that diagnostic LED 2 is on when the power cord is connected.4.
Reset the logic board. Refer to “5. Resetting the Logic Board” in this chapter.
Verify power supply cables are fully connected. 6.
Mac Pro (Early 2008) Troubleshooting — Symptom Charts 165
Verify that processors are properly seated. Check diagnostic LED 3 and/or LED 4. 7.
Verify that processors’ mounting clamps are properly tightened. 8.
Test whether the front panel board or power button is at fault. Remove the installed front 9. panel board and test with a known-good front panel board.
Replace front panel board. 10.
Replace power button. 11.
Replace power supply. 12.
Replace logic board.

Are there updates or solutions to this problem trin1? Seems that front panel board, power supply or logic board are all possibilities.

NF750-G55 won't power up, almost no APS LEDs activity

Hi there,
Just purchased a brand-new NF750-G55 mobo and a Phenom II X3 720.
Installed mobo, cpu, stock heatsink and thermal compound, ram, psu and monitor only. Everything is powering up properly, shutting down, plugging everything in the case, with drives, gfx card... Power-on the computer with no problem, start a Win7 installation, and I leave when Windows disk is copying data.
When I come back a half an hour later, the computer is off. Pushing the on/off button leads to the power led to blink every second without stopping until I unplug the power cable.
Checking mobo, when I push the power-on button, the 1st of the 4 APS LEDs lights blue for half a sec and instantly powers off. Then nothing will even happen, even when pushing the power button again. Have to power off/unplug the psu and power back on to see the same thing happening.
Switched ram, psu, removed everything but cpu and heatsink (actually removed the cpu, cleaned it, applied thermal compount again...)...and ultimately, removed mobo from the case, nothing will work. The power button on the mobo lights up but won't power on the computer, and the heatsink won't even start working.
With I had a spare AMx mobo and a spare CPU and heatsink, but it's not the case, so I can't cross test...
Removing the cmos battery didn't help either...
Also, no beeps at all. And CPU looks perfectly fine, no bent pins, and put and removed from socket without any difficulty.
So, what do you guys think?
Thx!
edit: seen on another topic:
Quote from: dcrwton on 29-July-11, 05:46:45
I found it on standby with the power LED flashing but it would not restart. Just the blue LEDs for <0.5 secs. I even reset the BIOS.
Could there be an Electrical Overstress on mboard damaging CPU?
Quote from: Bas on 29-July-11, 18:18:40
Could be 2 things: 1 PSU underpowered or broken (or both)...2 CPU overheating (something wrong with the heatspreader of cooler).
The blinking led shows it did an emergency shutdown to prevent damage.
I already tried with 4 different PSUs, Antec, CM, Corsair and OCZ, from 450 to 600W. All had the exact same behavior. So what is this freaking emergency shutdown caused by? Tried with Kingston and Patriot ram, so the only parts that haven't been cross tested are the mobo, the cpu and the heatsink...but again, it worked well for half an hour!

Quote from: Bas on 07-November-11, 17:59:19
I have seen thousands of boards myself, but can still count the bad ones on two hands.
(if you forget the bad-desinged ones, but those show up in the forum in big numbers, like the last Intel 67 series before B3)
Me too, 2 bad boards in a year probably makes 2011 the worst year since I built my first computer back in '98. And unfortunately, these two boards are the same brand...
Quote from: Fredrik on 07-November-11, 22:08:19
It worked till you put it in the case. User related. Probably a stand-off too many and/or motherboard under-side got scratched in the procedure.
nope...check my writing again: worked for 10min out of the case, then for an hour into the case. THEN it stopped working.

Board won't power up

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