Building a hp8673C driver (first time driver builder, coaching appreciated)
I've got a HP8673C Synthesized Signal Generator, communicating with Labview over GPIB-USB-HS cord (Labview 8.6.1 on Windows XP). There is no existing driver, so I am setting out to build one. I have never built a driver before, so here it goes.
What I've done so far:
Downloaded and installed the NI-488.2.3.0 driver.
Watched the NI presentation on the Instrument Driver Development
found the operating manual for the device (link) on the Agilent website.
created an instrument driver project, made an icon, and started testing the codes.
First question: Why does the error query vi have a loop in it? When I query the message on my device ("MG") it returns a 2 digit number error code. "00" is no error, and any non "00" code is an error. When there is an error (say, "20"), then it never stops the loop of the error query (because the return number is not equal to zero). It seems like I should just take the loop out, but I wanted to check why it was there in the first place.
Second question: Using the NI-488.2 Communicator, I query the device "*IDN?". It returns "FR03000000000HZ"; this also resets the HP8673C, and shows the error corresponding to "Invalid HP-IB code" on the device... any ideas what's happening here? Is there something I should be doing to EOS? I don't really understand what the EOI is or what my device requires.
Any help is greatly appreciated. In doing this project, I am hoping to learn more about how Labview works too, so feel free to point out things that I should know in general, especially if I'm missing steps. I hope it helps other first time driver builders too.
Attached is the driver project as it currently stands (mainly so you can check the error query vi if you want to).
Attachments:
hp8673C.zip 106 KB
The basic approach you are taking is the right one, since there are no existing drivers for that instrument. There are for the 8671, but I don't know how similar those instruments are.
The first thing you have to keep in mind is that the instrument you have is old. Very old.
The second thing you have to keep in mind is that the instrument driver project wizard creates a template based on an instrument that uses the SCPI standard. The instrument you have does not use the SCPI standard. Thus, several things that the template creates will simply not work correctly for the 8673C or won't apply.
With respect to your questions:
The Error Query has a loop since that's what most SCPI-based instruments work. They will have an error queue, and querying for an error will return the first error in the queue. You then repeatedly query the queue to get the next error until you get the response of "+0, No Error".
The *IDN? query is a SCPI standard. Your instrument does not support SCPI, so it does not know what that command even is. Instruments from that era had commands which were two or three characters long.
The Initialize VI performs an ID query (which you would need to chage to reflect the 8673's actual command and response) and then performs a reset or default setup. The Reset VI sends the *RST command, which, again, is a SCPI command. You would need to change this to the appropriate reset command for the 8673. A quick look at the table of commands seems to indicate it's probably the "IP" command. The default setup just sends REN which is remote enable. I think the 8673 should be OK with this, but you'd need to confirm it by looking at the manual. But then maybe you want the "IP" command here instead.
What I would suggest doing is to make things simple by creating individual VIs for each command that you are likely to use. This will allow you to test things one at a time, building up a usable library.
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I request you to help me with the procedure of the same?IMPORTANT - This will reformat your Seagate drive and hence wipe it. If there is anything on your Seagate drive you want to keep, save it somewhere else FIRST.
Plug the drive in.
In Finder select Applications > Utilities > Disc Utilities.
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Trials and Tribulations of a First Time MSI Builder
I'll try to keep this short and sweet (IMPOSSIBLE!), but hopefully this may make sense to some of you out there who have sought and found solice here on the MSI boards....
First off....I'm a first-time MSI MB user.....my system specs are as follows:
Voyeurmods Verge X case
MGE Vigor 500 PS
Athlon 64 2800
MSI K8T Neo FSRII
1 gig Kingston 400DDR (KVR400X64)
1- 80 gig Barracuda SATA
Thermalright SLK948U and TT UFO fan
Aopen DVD/CDR combo drive
TT Hardcano 12
Enermax 6 fan controller
Asus 9800xt
Audigy Platinum
and assorted other fans, belts, and whistles......
Now...the story and the point behind this post:
I have only built one other comp....2.4 Pentium Platform......nice, stable rig.....a few extra goodies to qualify it as a "semi-mod"...but it was a great system to cut my teeth on, and in all fairness, I had a lot of extra help with cables/bios/cpu install, etc. I wouldnt call it a "from-scratch" set up...Never one to NOT jump into the deep end of the pool, I decided to move up a bit and try a new build from scratch....I wanted a decent rig...strictly gaming......as close to state of the art as my budget would allow, but I was prepared to make exceptions......
My original MB of choice once I settled on an Athlon 64 was the Abit KV8. It was a great-looking MB; I thought the OATES cooling system was a significant upgrade from a lot of others...and I liked their "UGURU" system management tool...unfortunately, the Abit MB is now sitting in a trash bin....I have to say that, all emotion aside, Abit wont be seeing my cash any time in the future.....to call the OATES system a total failure would be an understatement...only AFTER I started reading the Abit boards did I realize that virtually every builder was removing the plastic OATES shroud and tossing it away.......the screw alignment in the OATES portion of the board, coupled with almost any aftermarket HS/fan alignment warps the board slightly and doesnt allow multiple sticks of memory to sit properly in the slots......if you folks think thats a joke, just check out the Abit forums.....I'd say that right now, the negative reviews of the KV8 boards are surpassing the "positive" reviews by a ratio of 2 or 3 to 1. And then try RMA'ing the board once its warped!
Now granted, the Thermalright SLK puts a hell of a stress load on the CPU section of the MB through sheer weight alone, but the MSI board, TO ME, seems to be a bit "beefier"....a tad thicker in construction. I dunno...maybe its the layout, or weight distribution. But I digress and this was "supposed" to be short and sweet....
Many hours of bareboning the build with the Abit board resulted in me switching manufacturers and trying MSI. Everything I tried....all the tech support....all the forums and Abit messageboards.....litterally swapping out every piece of equipment....nothing got that Abit board to boot up. I was getting error messages that werent even acknowledged by the manufacturer! Folks, you have NO idea how much better a product MSI is putting out compared to Abit.
For starters.....the board sits damned near perfectly on the standoffs.....one does NOT have to remove the video card to get at the memory slots (the Abit board requires MOST if not all video cards to be removed if swapping memory in slot 1)...the layout of the SATA and IDE brackets seemed a bit more ergonamically proficient on the MSI board.....about the only thing that appealed to me (initially)more on the Abit board was an "on board" LCD error check system that seemed to be a bit easier to use than the MSI D Bracket system. I say "seemed to be", but again, going back to basic board layout and design, the LCD's are virtually covered by the IDE cables that have to sit over the LCD's because of their close proximity to each other. Nice idea. Poorly executed.
So....if any of you first-timers have concerns about choosing the MSI board, start breathing easier.....once I switched boards, and used the exact same components as my first try with the Abit board, the K8T Neo started up first time out of the box.....everything about this board (knock wood), so far, has been great, and I also have to say that the help that all of you here dish out has made this experience nothing short of amazing.
Jocko, whoever the hell you are, you are my new Obi Wan Kenobi! Your advice in a few threads to newbies like myself was so damned "dead-on" ....so accurate...its like you know these boards and systems from the circuit on up! And I have to thank you right now for helping me even though we never exchanged emails or posts......many, many, many thanks!
Also, Mike...your thread for first-timers......it should be part of the itinerary for ALL newbies. Thanks for taking the time to share....
Finally...some additional thoughts that may help others ( or may not):
1. Configuring the BIOS is, to me anyway, always a bit scary. I like pointing and clicking...I hate pressing enter and using arrow keys...there are just too many damned choices and I'll always wonder if I made the right ones......scan back a few threads and search out any of Jocko's advice regarding the initial load of Windows and SATA drives...he makes this part easy. Also, there are several websites that give advice on optimum BIOS configs....you can find many links here on these forums.
2. If any of you want custom modded cases at decent pricing, dont be afraid to use Voyeurmods. Everything about Brian and his crew is top notch.....the customer service....the shipping.....the Verge X case is simply perfection.....I cant say enough nice things about them.
3. Kingston memory can be purchased directly from their USA website at fairly discounted pricing from just about anyone else on the web.....I paid $139.00 for 2 512 sticks of 400 DDR(not per stick...$139.00 total) a while back...pricing changes weekly so if you like Kingston product, check them weekly for specials...so far it has worked perfectly in my rig, and because you are buying direct, the warranty is as good as it gets.
4. The Thermalright SLK 948 is one hell of a heatsink, and the TT UFO fan that sits on top of it makes for one nice combo! My CPU refuses to overheat under load, and I cant say enough about how easy it was to install on the board. If any of you want a superb aftermarket product this does the trick nicely.
5. Any idea why the 2 power slots on the MSI MB are on opposite sides of the board? That was the one glitch I found on these boards that Abit did right...place the 2 power connections side by side for better cable management.
6. If on the first power up the entire system stays dark, chances are it AINT a bad Power supply...more than likely its front panel headers in the wrong slots..check your wiring. If there is just a slight glimpse of power and it cuts out immediately, its almost assuredly wrong wiring....the PS is shorting itself out.
7. On the HOT topic of power supplies....my MGE has 20 amps on the 12 volt line...I know, I know....its barely adequate to some of you....but I have to say this in as nice a way as possible: folks, it AINT always the power supply when a problem develops. I have read countless.....COUNTLESS posts/threads on both Board forums where a problem is "diagnosed" as being a crappy power supply. Some folks wont even discuss any other issue until a different PS is installed. The sad/funny thing is....if you read back through the threads here, as well as the Abit boards, I'd say 90% of the solutions to the problems didnt end up being the PS at all! Its more like: 30% user error....20% memory...10% CMOS clearing....20% component failure(including MB)....10% CPU seating.....10% PS.
8. Do....regardless of how much extra work is involved here....DO utilize a barebones build BEFORE you install in the case and hook up all the peripherals.....it cuts out SO many potential problems before they happen, and just makes so damned much sense. I know its extra effort, but if youre a first timer, and you want that first boot to take place; you want that main screen once you press "DELETE", this is the way to go.
9. Clearing CMOS. LOL! Yup......oh the errors of first- timers like myself!!!!!! Dont even bother posting here until you make sure you cleared the CMOS properly, and if youre not sure how, dont be afraid to ask stupid questions like I did here.
10. Dont be afraid to use cardboard as your anti-static material under a barebones...it works well...costs nothing...and your only potential issue is heat build up if your CPU freaks out.
11. DONT overuse your Artic Silver 5 on the CPU.....forget all the advice about "spreading out evenly" a thin layer of silver all over the CPU cover.....use the "grain of rice" method in the center.....a very small amount spreads out like you cant imagine! After I removed the HS from the CPU on the Abit board, I couldnt believe how thoroughly well the paste had spread over the CPU cover. If I had used more, or spread it out, the TR SLK would have forced it well over the sides of the CPU.
12. DONT be afraid of the BIOS. The MSI manual actually does a pretty decent job of guiding one through the initial set up, and YES...do NOT forget to press F10 to save all your changes.....it took me a couple of tries to make sure the changes "took".
13. DONT panic if you miss the F6 move on Windows install for SATA drivers.....it seems that on XP home, pressing F6 when prompted to made no difference.....30 seconds later the "add 3rd party drivers" screen comes up anyway.....for reference sake, my total Windows XP install took 16 minutes from start to finish.
14. Loading the VIA SATA drivers at that point in Windows is tricky for one very simple reason: the floppy doesnt have any "scroll down" arrows for multiple driver install. They are hidden UNDER the initial screen....press "S" when prompted for the initial driver....and then scroll down under the first batch to find the second one...highlight it and press "S"....dont panic if the screen doesnt change immediately...it "feels" like Windows lags a bit but the screen DOES change.
15. SATA cables dont always "sit" snugly in Barracuda drives...I tried 3 different cables from legit manufacturers in 2 different Seagates....they all fit...they all work...but just a tiny amount of pressure unseats them....use caution and try to keep any other cables from pressing OVER the SATA near the HD.
16. Bench test your system for at least 24 hours of continuous useage before you move it or do anything else with it......it just makes sense to see if anything shorts out or heats up......
Feel Free to email me ([email protected]) if you have any questions or want any ideas.....MSI has made my first real build a blast!
JJHi
Welcome, glad you got some benefit from the threads, it all so easy once you've done it a few times, aint it.
Glad your going well, now you can help others
you could also join the folding team and help medical research.
enjoy
cheers
jocko -
First time computer builder - using K7N2G-LISR
Here is my story:
I am a first time part by part computer builder, I have installed every product except a CPU and Motherboard seperately. This was my first time buying each part on its own and assembling it myself though.
The parts I am using are:
MSI K7N2G-LISR motherboard
Athlon XP 2400
512 MB 2700 DDR Corsair XMS Ram
40 GB Western Digital 7200 RPM HD
Sony 32x CD-Ron
Integrated Graphics
400W Power Supply
Vantec Aeroflow heatsink
I had some trouble installing the heatsink. I had both paste and thermal pads, since it was my first time doing this and thermal pads seemed alot easier, I tried out one of them. I continued putting the PC together and everything was working just fine.
I got to the BIOS and messed around with the settings a bit. I realized I accidently set my HD as slave to the CD-Rom. I also set it to High Performance, and allocated 128 MB of ram to the onboard graphics. Before exiting out of the bios, I checked my CPU temp and it was a whopping 64C/148F. After I powered down, I fixed my HD/CD-Rom to the proper settings, and took off my heatsink.
I removed what was left of the thermal pad and scraped as much away as I could. I then put a little layer of thermal paste on top of the CPU using the credit card method. I had a little trouble putting the heatsink back on, using its side clip.
The computer refuses to boot up at all now.
The diagnostic lights will vary depending on what settings I have, between:
(R= Red, G= Green)
R G
R R
(Memory Detection Test)
I don't know how long it is supposed to sit there, but I gave it a minute. This was the first hang-up I encountered. I had two sticks of 256 MB so I alternated between the two sticks in different DIMMs, but nothing worked.
After screwing around and putting the original settings back (with the HD/CD-Rom) I got this message:
G G
G R
(Testing Real Time Clock)
It hung there for a while too.
I left the HD/CD-Rom configuration, removed the ram, and got:
R G
R G
(Testing base and extended memory)
Again, it just sat.
No matter what I do, I can't seem to get past this stage.
My question is this:
Did I fry my CPU? If not, could you think of something else preventing me from starting up?Well it's certainly possible that you did fry the CPU but I don't think so at this point...
Do this:
UNPLUG the machine
UNPLUG the MB from the PS
Ground yourself if possible otherwise make sure you have touched METAL on the case prior to unplugging it. And don't walk around on the carpet or shuffle your feet.
Set the HD on the Primary IDE as Single Drive/Master
Set the CDROM on the Secondary IDE as Single/Master
Take off your Heatsink and clean it really well and get ALL of the old goo off of it and the processor. Use Orange Clean as I've found it really does the best job. Put the paste (Arctic Silver II if you can get it) back on and install the fan/heatsink again.
Install 1 stick of memory in slot 3
Plug in the Floppy
Plug in the system fans and the power hookups
Plug in the MB to the PSupply
Find the jumper to reset the CMOS/BIOS and set it to clear
wait the amount of time it says in the manual and set it back. sometimes you have to remove the battery to get it to reset so you might just do that first and then do the jumper
Plug in the PS and start up the system and see what happens.
If it doesn't start you may have fried any number of things in the machine so you'll have to start replacing them one by one to figure out what the problem is.
Hope it works tho!! 8) -
First time computer builder - simple question(I think)
Im putting together my first computer so far without much problem
This is hardware I have
380W Antec Power
865 neo2 board
2.8 p4 processor
2x512 mb corsair memory
lite on cd-rw
plextor dvd-rw
200gb western digital special additon hard drive.
(which came with ata ultra controller card)
My question is this:
How should I set up my two optical drives and the hard drive on my available ide connections. Of course I have the two regular ide ports 1&2 and I have the ide3 next to the serial ata ports. I also have the ata ultra controller card plugged into one of the pci ports which gives me two more ide ports. I ve read through the forum listings and have not came across a simple description of how I should configure my hard drive and optical drives. How should I hook up these drives and what settings should I use (master/slave). Any help would be appreciated If it seems like I'm asking dumb questions it's just because I'm real new at this and want every thing to be perfects. thanksIMHO
I would take out ata controller card. Your MB has enough....
Primary IDE - master - your WD harddrive
Primary or Secondary IDE - slave - you lite on cd-rw
Secondary IDE - master - plextor dvd-rw
If you will install XP + service pack 1 your harddrive should be OK.
PS - Just finish to build about the same config....
But I made my dvd-rw - external
added later AFAIK Your 3rd IDE will not support optical drives.
It is possible to put bootable harddrive on third IDE, but I it is not very simple
and have no big advantages -
First time to build computer - Need help
Hello, I just finished putting my computer together. It was my first time and I think everything went pretty well. I just finished putting Windows XP on it. However, I have a few questions/problems still:
1) Whenever I turn the computer on it still has a screen with Platinum on it saying tab to post | del to enter bios. Is this normal?
2) After that screen goes away, it stops loading and says "Press F1 to continue, DEL to enter SETUP" and I have to make a selection.
3) After I press F1 to continue it says Press<Ctrl+S> or F4 to enter Raid Utility, but I dont have any raid stuff. If i leave it alone, then it enters into XP
4) After XP loads, if I try to goto my computer I get a blue screen. It says MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION on it towards the top. Towards the bottom it says
*** STOP: 0x00000009C (0x00000 and some more numbers). How do I fix this. I don't know if this helps, but I have a 200GB harddrive that was brand new, and whenever I booted with XP CD it said it only saw 131,000+ MB. I said to format anyway, hope that didn't screw me up.
Thanks for the help.1. It's a normal default setting for the bios screen to show the logo. I personally don't like it, so I turned it off. You can access it in the "Advanced BIOS" page of the bios.
2. Something must be in error to have the system stop booting. The bios only stops on errors. I wouldn't be overly concerned yet though. Default settings on the board make it stop on all errors. It should give you a reason why it's stopping so look at the screen when it stops and tells you to hit F1. That should give you an idea of what needs fixing.
3. Just turn off the RAID function. It's in the "Integrated Peripherals" screen.
4. Could be any number of reasons, checking your memory would be a good first step. As to Windows only seeing it as 131GB, that's probably because you installed with an older version of Windows XP, before SP1. Back then it couldn't see drives bigger then around 139GB. Install SP2 and you shouldn't have a problem. Just make sure that your BIOS sees it as 186GB. That's what 200GB drives usually show up as.
Michael -
Please help with first time PC build
As a guy coming from a 8 year old 3,1 MacPro into PCs I need a bit of help evaluating all the different combinations when it comes to building a PC.
I'm woking in CC mainly with After Effects and Premiere. In AE I'm working with Element 3D/optical flares, getting into some C4D.
Premiere mainly with HD and Blackmagic cinema dng & prores. Working with some 4k Red footage. Additional CC applications but After Effects and Premiere are the main concern. Also, hoping to use Resolve, but haven't.
I'm not going to be building it myself, there is a computer place that will be assembling and this was their suggested build with parts that they usually use with workstations along with some of my input from looking online. I think the vast amount of work they do is for gamers, and since I won't be gaming at all I want to make sure this is a solid work machine.
Motherboard : 2011-v3 : ATX : X99S SLI PLUS : MSI
CPU : Intel Core i7 5820K (6 x 4.0 GHz Overclock, 12 x threads)
Case : ATX : No PSU : P70 Silence (Black) : Antec
PSU : 750W : Smart Standard 80 Plus : SP-750PCBUS : Thermaltake
RAM : Desktop DDR4 : 16GB/Kit : PC4-17000 : Crucial
Cooling : CPU : Liquid : 120mm : Kuhler H2O 650 : KuhlerH2O650 : Antec
Video Card : PCI-E : NVIDIA : GTX 970 : 4GB : ZT-90101-10P : Zotac
HD : SSD : 250GB : SATA3 : Samsung 850 EVO (OS, Programs)
HD : HDD : 2TB : SATA : WD2003FZEX Black : Western Digital (media, projects)
HD : SSD : 500GB : SATA3 : BX100 Series : CT500BX100SSD1 : Crucial (media cache, previews, exports)
I have a couple of 500GB 7200 seagate drives that were in my mac pro that I will probably bring over to keep photos, documents and other personal stuff.
I have a 3TB caldigit vr raid that I'm thinking I can connect to the pc via esata
As a potential extra I'm considering a 4TB backup drive where I can copy everything over incase of a drive failure.
I appreciate any input, thanksThanks,
I've been reconsidering my build in light of what you said and I'm hoping you could look it over.
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 850 - $174.99
CASE - Fractal Design Define R5 - $139.99
I'm still not sure about cooling. The R5 has 2 fans included, on on the back and one of the front. Is that enough or do I need another?
CPU cooler - From what I understand I will still need a fan on the CPU and I've seen the Noctua NH-D15 and Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO on other forums. Thoughts?
I have no experience over clocking so I'm thinking I will just leave the CPU as is. Correct me if I'm wrong but I've heard the 5820 is a better price/performance value than the 5930 so I'm thinking it's worth it to save the $250. Unless this CPU only makes sense if you OC
CPU - i7-5820K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.3GHz- $469.99
Motherboard - Asus 99-A - $334.99
Originally I had the regular Crucial Ram picked out but It looks like the Crucial Ballistix Sport has a higher speed and is on sale for basically the same price. Latency is 15 for the regular and 16 for the ballistix? Is that the right call?
RAM - Crucial 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 2133 PC4-17000 - $449.99
OR
RAM - Crucial Ballistix Sport 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4 2400 PC4-19200 - $439.99
Video Card - GIGABYTE GV-N970G1 Gaming-4GD GTX 970 - $449.99
System Drive - Samsung 850 Pro 256GB - $194.99 2 of these one for system and another for media cache, previews, and exports.
Am I forgetting anything?
Thanks for taking a look -
First time PC build. Please help.
So first off I'm pretty amateur. I have been running Pr elements on an old destop for a while and putting together a few little DSLR projects. Im starting to get a few more serious projects and need to upgrade things. I was tempted to go down the Mac route but have pretty much opted against that. I am planning on getting Production Premium, as I can get student pricing. Going this route I really need a good computer that I can rely on to cut and color quickly. Keep in mind that Im not doing anything really fancy. Mostly simple edits with coloring and other basic effects.
This is what the computer shop recomended based on what I thought I needed. The price came out a little higher than Id like, so any recommendations would be really appreciated. I am really not much of a computer guy so I have no idea if there are any problems with this setup. Is it too much for what I'm doing? What would you do to make it better?
Antec P193 Full Tower
Antec True Power 1200W Power Supply
Intel Core i7 2700K 3.5 GHz (Quad Core Hyperthreaded)
ASUS SKT1155 Intel Z77 Ivy Bridge Motherboard
16GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600MHz Ram
Patriot 240 GB Wildfire SSD Hard Drive (OS drive)
Seagate Barracuda SATA/600 3TB Hard Drive (Data Storage)
ASUS Blu-Ray Writer 12X
Internal Card Reader All – in – One
PNY nVidia Quadro 4000 2GB DDR5 256bit Graphics
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
3 Year Warranty
$3249.95 CAD
I appreciate anyone who can take the time to answer this question from a beginner.>Patriot 240 GB Wildfire SSD Hard Drive (OS drive)
I agree with Harm... I have Win7 64bit Pro and CS5 Master Collection and MS Office Pro and "several" other, smaller programs on my boot drive... and only 60gig is used... I do have my work load spread across 3 drives
My 3 hard drives to edit AVCHD are configured as...
1 - 320Gig Boot for Win7 64bit Pro and all program installs
2 - 320Gig data for Win7 paging swap file and video project files
When I create a project on #2 drive, the various work files follow,
so my boot drive is not used for the media cache folder and files
3 - 1Terabyte data for all video files... input & output files (*)
(*) for 4 drives, drive 3 all source files & drive 4 all output files
Search Microsoft to find out how to redirect your Windows paging swap file
http://search.microsoft.com/search.aspx?mkt=en-US&setlang=en-US
>Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
Unless you are on a "business enterprise network" where you need the advanced features of Ultimate, all you need is Win7 64bit Pro
Even if you are not going to overclock your CPU look into a better cooling aftermarket CPU fan
Be sure you have plenty of "large, quiet" case fans
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/652694 includes a link to the computer I built... outdated now, but still works well for me -
Just have a few things i would like to check with you guys.
OS not installed yet.
1: I have got a SSD drive to put my OS on, is there anything I need to do in the Bios first??
2: Have a MSI 790FX-GD70 Mobo, and the ram I have is Crucial Ballistix Tracer 4gb ( 2x2 ) DDR3 PC3-10666C6 1333MHz Dual Channel, CAS 6-6-6-20 timings, 1.8 - 2.2v. I see this mobo is set at 1.5v so will i have to change this before I load the OS?? If so can I change the volts only??
ThankyouThe SSD should be recognized without a problem. Just connect and it should be working.
Voltage: change voltages in the CoreCell menu in the BIOS. Set to 2.0V first. If the system gets unstable, increase one step at a time. -
24p Advanced on P2/Hard Drive - First Timer Questions
I'm getting ready to edit a project that is going to be shot on a Panasonic HVX 200- onto 8 gig "P2" cards, downloading them on set to a mini mobile editing system to a Digital Hard drive. The production company is going to send me the hard drive. It will apparently be shot 24p advanced. Normally, everything I've worked on for years has been shot on 35mm or 16mm and transferred to beta or Dbeta for me to edit with. I will not be finishing this project - only offlining, but I have some questions:
I can edit 24p Advanced HD with FCP, correct?
Since It's only going to be on a hard drive, should I transfer it to my CalDigit SATA RAID to edit with?
I use an AJA io SDI box and the new JVC flatpanel HD/SD broadcast monitor. Will I be able to output this on my monitor with this setup?
Anything special to look for when outputting 24p EDLs?
Basically, any advice on workflow with this would be greatly appreciated. I'm an old-school, film and Avid convertee and I hope to make a smooth transition to HD.
MacBook Pro, FCP 5.1, AJA io, Caldigit SVRDuo 1.5TB, Lacie Rugged FW Drive Mac OS X (10.4.8) Other Macs/Editing Systems OwnedThe raw P2 files. They're in a folder with the job name. It's listed "Card 1", "Card 2", etc... I'm copying them over as we speak to the RAID.
No no no. STop...stop now. That is NOT what you are supposed to do. You need to import the footage FROM that drive using the P2 IMPORT (or Log and Import...whatever the FCP 6 term for it is)...LEAVE the raw on the Lacie. Importing them converts them to Quicktime files you can edit.
You gotta watch this tutorial before you go ANY further:
http://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/pagewrapper.cgi?forumid=8&page=http://www.creativecow.net/articles/ross_shane/p2workflow/index.html
When I create a Capture Scratch folder, I tend to get several "Capture Scratch" folders inside of that folder (as opposed to having them all in the OMFI folder in the Avid). How do I keep them all organized into one folder (or do I need to do this?)\
Stop thinking in Avid terms now. Get that out of your head.
When you choose the CAPTURE SCRATCH, choose the drive itself. NOT A FOLDER ON THAT DRIVE. This way you'll have all the right folders on the base level of the drive.
How do I keep them all organized into one folder (or do I need to do this?)
Click on Underdog to get to my blog...then click on the DVD on the right hand side. This is my tutorial DVD on how to organize yourself in FCP. FCP does things VERY differently from an Avid, and if you take the Avid approach you'll get lost and burried, FAST. Buy this DVD (shameful plug) and watch it. But watch that tutorial first.
Again, this will be conformed elsewhere, but hopefully, my EDL and ref tape will do the trick.
Get this figured out now. Talk to who is finishing it because this workflow is VERY different from a tape based one. There is no offline, you are cutting at full resolution. There is no conform, as there will be no recapturing of the footage. It is unnecessary. They need to talk to the finishing house now and get this figured out before you do something you shouldn't.
Shane -
First time to build OLAP Cube - aggregation problem
I am new to OLAP technology and i want to build first OLAP cube. i use scott schema doing:
1- build dimension on "DEPT" table with one level deptno.
2- build cube with one measure sal on "EMP" table.
Table Emp
DEPTNO SAL
20 800
30 1600
30 1250
20 2975
30 1250
30 2850
10 2450
20 3000
10 5000
30 1500
20 1100
30 950
20 3000
10 1300
table DEPt
DEPTNO DNAME
10 ACCOUNTING
20 RESEARCH
30 SALES
40 OPERATIONS
when i use maintain wizard and then view data the sum of salary is not accurate it looks like
sum
all depts 5550
accounting 1300
researches. 3000
sales 1250
operations 0
values should be
sum
all depts 29025
accounting 8750
researches. 10875
sales 9400
operations 0
why the aggregation values for departments is no accurate??Problem is visible in your below table.
Table Emp
DEPTNO SAL
20 800
30 1600
30 1250
20 2975
30 1250
30 2850
10 2450
20 3000
10 5000
30 1500
20 1100
30 950
20 3000
10 1300
There are multiple of dept no with different sal. In OLAP when you load such record then the last record comes wins. This is why if you observe then you will see the value you see is the last value getting loaded.
To resolve this you should do a group by (in emp) deptno and sum(sal). Load the records and you will see correct result.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Brijesh -
Starting BIOS first time after build with X99S Sli plus
Is there a tutorial for the basic BIOS set up for this mobo? I want to just set the computer to boot up tfrom my ssd. Is there anything else I have to do in BIOS before I load Windows 8.1? I don't want to get into overclocking, just the basics. Should I try to connect the computer to the internet right after I change the boot drive priority in BIOS? I'm thinking automatic updates to the BIOS via The Web.
Quote
Is there a tutorial for the basic BIOS set up for this mobo?
Manual for your mobo
http://www.msi.com/support/mb/X99S-SLI-PLUS.html#down-manual
Quote
Is there anything else I have to do in BIOS before I load Windows 8.1?
If you don't need UEFI win8.1, then no need to change BIOS settings.
Quote
Should I try to connect the computer to the internet right after I change the boot drive priority in BIOS?
Install all the drivers from your driver DVD
Quote
I'm thinking automatic updates to the BIOS via The Web.
If you mean using Live Update to flash your bios, be sure you updated to the latest Live Update version, and before flash the bios, be sure the bios does for your motherboard -
Dreamweaver table building help for a first timer.
I either need help re-slicing my web page or I need help making a table to fit this oddly sliced monstrosity. I went to classes for this far too long ago and I am only now putting this into practice. The page is 955px x 600px and I wanted the table cells to have 0 Border Thickness, 0 Cell Padding and 0 cell spacing, but every attempt to make this table within a riddle within a paradox has failed. Please help send this newbie to the correct drawing board or send me a sample table,
Thank You
bolthead88
This is the page I sliced.
http://http://imgur.com/kqKpL.jpgSince you're basically starting over, why not do it right? Table-based layouts were a popular choice about 10 years ago. Modern web design has changed a lot since then. Nowadays, we use CSS (cascading style sheets) to style content and position elements on pages. Once you understand the basics, CSS is actually very liberating because it keeps your styles totally separate from your HTML content. Should you decide to change the look of your pages later, it's accomplished in an hour or so by editing the CSS code within a single stylesheet. The major disadvantage of Table based layouts is that you would need to go back and change each line of HTML code to change the appearance of your tables - which could take a week, or more on larger sites.
Apart from the time saving advantages of CSS, having content separate from style makes indexing your site easier by search engines, it produces cleaner, more efficient code and faster loading pages. I urge you to look into CSS as your primary layout method. You'll be glad you did.
Some tutorials to help get you started:
HTML & CSS Tutorials - http://w3schools.com/
From Tables to CSS Web Design Part 1 -
http://www.adobe.com/devnet/dreamweaver/articles/table_to_css_pt1.html
From Tables to CSS Web Design Part 2 -
http://www.adobe.com/devnet/dreamweaver/articles/table_to_css_pt2.html
Taking a Fireworks (or Photoshop) comp to a CSS based layout in DW
http://www.adobe.com/devnet/fireworks/articles/web_standards_layouts_pt1.html
Good luck,
Nancy O.
Alt-Web Design & Publishing
Web | Graphics | Print | Media Specialists
www.alt-web.com/
www.twitter.com/altweb
www.alt-web.com/blogspot.com -
I just replaced my hard drive in my 13" Macbook. I got the OS install disk from Apple but it's stuck with 7 minutes remaining. What do I do now? I let it check the disk before the install.
Did you properly prep your new drive first?
Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder. If you need to reformat your startup volume, then you must boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID (for Intel Macs) or APM (for PPC Macs) then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Steps 4-6 are optional but should be used on a drive that has never been formatted before, if the format type is not Mac OS Extended, if the partition scheme has been changed, or if a different operating system (not OS X) has been installed on the drive.
When formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Complete the OS X installation.
I think you should shutdown the installer then erase the drive per the above and start again. -
Unknown error code 13014 problem, this is the first time I've ever seen it.
After I upgraded my PC, I copied old libraries and music files from the old hard drive to the new one. I installed the newest version of iTunes (8.0.2) and when I plugged in my ipod, I saw something I had never seen. Guess what it is?
'Unknown error code 13014!'
I had no problems for using every function that my iPod touch and iTunes have (including Genius play list) and of course, I've been updating every version of firmwares and iTunes programs. After I googled about this incident, I figured out this problem should not be seen on the newest version of iTunes but I'm still surffering from it.
Temporally, I turned off Genius Play List and now, that error code doesn't pop up but of course, I can not use Genius Play list because of it.
I uninstalled and reinstalled iTunes, restored firmware, moved Library Extras & Genius.itdb and do them again and again. Of course, none of them worked.
What can I do? Is there anyone else who is experiencing same thing to me? How can I get my Genius Play List function back?
Please Help me. I'm desperate. :<Did you properly prep your new drive first?
Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder. If you need to reformat your startup volume, then you must boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID (for Intel Macs) or APM (for PPC Macs) then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Steps 4-6 are optional but should be used on a drive that has never been formatted before, if the format type is not Mac OS Extended, if the partition scheme has been changed, or if a different operating system (not OS X) has been installed on the drive.
When formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Complete the OS X installation.
I think you should shutdown the installer then erase the drive per the above and start again.
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