Buying a home, student loan reporting questions HELP!

My fiancee and I have decided to buy a house in our area, we got a somewhat green light from our mortgage broker but he had stated there were some things that needed to have letters of payment or more information on them in order to proceed. The items are all regarding student loan accounts on my fiancees report. I did not know him when he took these loans and am not familiar with them at all but I am the one handling the credit issues because I have had a little experience with rebuilding for my family in the past. Unfortunately when I ask my fiancee about the items, he has ZERO clue how much, when, etc. So here are the items1. AES/NCT reporting a $ balance which was $19,759 and it says PAID but then says Charge off transferred to recovery. 2. Sallie Mae for $1333 original balance with a balance of $0 now Reporting as paid through insurance3. Sallie Mae for $875 original balance with a balance of $0 now Reporting as paid through insurance4. SW student services for $875 but with a balance of $0 now (this is the same account as the sallie mae above, not two accounts) Reporting as Transferred5. SW student services for $1333 original balance with a balance of $0 now (also the same account as the sallie mae above) Reporting as Transferred The SW student services ones were the originial lender for the two small student loans and they were opened in June 2003 and show as OK through October 2005 where they then stop reporting. The status shows no missed payments - He thought he paid these two small loans off right after he finished the program but he has no proof. There are no other student loan items and or collection accounts on his credit so how do I find out where these went, how to pay them, how to get them removed.. anything? And since the SW student services and Sallie mae ones are the same as eachother shouldn't one set go away? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Just send a dispute of accuracy to the CRA, identifying the asserted inaccuracy and providing your reasons or documentation in support of your assertion.The CRA is then required under the FCRA to forward a copy of your dispute to the "furnisher," which in this case would be the heir in title to the debt.You are not required to name the current owner or who the CRA refers the dispute. It is the responsibility of the CRA to make the determination of who to refer the disptue for their investigation and response. If the CRA does not receive verification back from the furnisher of the disputed information, that does not automaticaly require deletion.The CRA has the final authority in any dispute to make a determination as to whether they can verify the accuracy.Howver, in most situations, absent any verification from the furnisher, the CRA will be left with no basis to verify on their own, and thus lack of response from the furnisher will usually equate to CRA deletion as lacking verificaiton.

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Student Loan repayment question

Hey all, My partner has some student loans in deferment while she finishes school. Since they show as installment loans, would it change the reporting/help to start making small payments now? We can easily throw 50 bucks a month at them, but we could also throw that money towards our house down payment fund. Any advice is appreciated.

hanales wrote:
Hey all, My partner has some student loans in deferment while she finishes school. Since they show as installment loans, would it change the reporting/help to start making small payments now? We can easily throw 50 bucks a month at them, but we could also throw that money towards our house down payment fund. Any advice is appreciated. I would not be putting money towards loans that are in deferment.

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Unfortunately the student loan companies are very strict on the credit reporting. They are supposed to help students but screw them in the end with no recourse if you happen to miss a payment.

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Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives:  None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income.   Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location:  This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description:  Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value.  $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy.  Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance

Georgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho.  2. Credit Negatives:  Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying.  5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval  8. Location:  Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy.   Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage.  ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth

Cosigning Student Loans - Learn From My Mistakes - Please Read

I have gone through a nightmare due to a student loan that I co-signed on, and I am creating this post in the hopes that you will learn from my mistakes. Please pass this post on to anyone who you think would benefit, and hopefully save them a lot of heartache and anxiety. My post is lengthy, but please be patient and read it, it could literally save your financial life.Briefly here is my situation: I am the co-signer on a $60K Sallie Mae private student loan where the primary borrower has defaulted on me, meaning they have told me they cannot pay a dime, have no intention of changing their lifestyle to do so, and will not tell me when, if ever, they will make good on this. Meanwhile, as the guarantor of the loan, I have been subjected to the full force of SM collection agency practices, and forced to face the music while the primary person on this loan can blissfully ignore the situation as if it was not happening. After multiple weeks of heartache, anxiety and worry over my financial future, I found in the fine print that if I make 24 consecutive on-time payments, then I am off the hook. I verified this with SM and am now 6 months into paying this off. As long as nothing unexpected occurs, I am looking forward to being off the hook in 18 months, having learned an expensive but not life altering lesson, as I was originally facing. Now let me go into some lessons, please pass these on to anyone you think would benefit - let's make this post the most widely read one on FICO forums, this is so important. And now my hard lessons learned:Lesson #1: DO NOT COSIGN A STUDENT LOAN: especially private student loans which carry higher interest rates. When you cosign a loan, you are the guarantor: you are putting your good credit profile on the line and telling the loan agency that you are responsible if anything ever happens with the primary borrower and they are unable to pay. All the obligations are on your shoulders, in fact, in many ways you are more responsible than the primary borrower, and this is how the loan and collection agencies will treat you. If you think: that's just the fine print, that will never happen, think again. It happens all the time, are you willing and able to take on this burden if you have to? Possibilities become reality, and this is a reality you do not want to be a part of, trust me on this. If you want to help someone, find other ways to do it outside of the system. Loan them the money as an individual, or pay their rent or expenses, that way, if problems arise, you don't have to get credit agencies, loan agencies, and collections agencies involved. If you are a parent and want to help your child, see Lesson #2.Lesson #2: LOAN ONLY WHAT YOU CAN LOSE: Every rule has exceptions, so the exception to Lesson #1 is this: only cosign on a loan if you are absolutely willing and able to pay off the full loan obligation. When you cosign you are lending your good name and credit profile, and you are effectively loaning money that you will have to pay back if the primary borrower defaults. In other words, never loan more than you are willing to lose, and therefore never cosign for more than you are willing to lose. And be willing to accept that the fact that your relationship with the primary borrower may be permanently damaged if you are forced to step in and cover their obligations.Lesson #3: LOANS GROW: I cannot emphasize this point enough, it really burned me: I did not co-sign a loan for 60K, I co-signed for 45K, and without my knowledge the primary borrower capitalized the interest during the first 18 months of the loan, which they were allowed to do, but it caused the loan to grow by 33%. So when it came time to guarantee the loan, I was on the hook for 60K, which I had never originally agreed to.Lesson #4: SALLIE MAE DOES NOT CARE: And why should they? This is business. As co-signer, you are the guarantor of the loan, you have to make good on the obligation when the primary borrower defaults. In fact, as guarantor, the loan and collection agencies will go after you harder than the primary borrower. Do you have a good credit and collateral, such as a house? Well this binds your obligation even more tightly. When loan and collections agencies see that you have the wherewithal to pay, they will not let you off the hook. And they don't care if paying off their loan puts you on the street. This is business and you have to pay up. Understand this black and white reality before you co-sign a loan. Lesson #5: DON’T DELAY PAYMENTS: Forbearance and deferments are often mentioned as options for helping out on loan obligations, but do not fall into this trap: they make a bad loan situation worse, they don't help. Deferment does not prevent interest from accumulating: you'll just have a bigger loan to pay when the deferment ends. Student loans typically give you a deferment grace period, usually 6 months, before you have to start paying back the loan. Most of us have to use this initial grace period, but please avoid it if you can, it just makes your loan grow larger. Forbearance is another method of delay, but it requires you to make the loan current before the loan agency can talk to you. In other words, you have to be paid up on what you currently owe before the loan agency will talk to you about forbearance. Think about this Catch-22: you can't pay your current loan obligations, so you ask the loan agency for help. The loan agency won't talk to you until you make the loan current. Never use deferment or forbearance, they make your bad situation worse. Lesson #6: NO LEGAL RECOURSE: Student loan debt is not dischargeable in bankruptcy court proceedings, it is debt that you will carry for life until it is paid off, regardless of what happens to you. And don't assume that the loan agency will only take legal action against the primary borrower in a default situation: they will also take legal action against you. Remember, you are equally responsible, you will be held legally accountable. And don't think that you can sue the primary borrower. You can only sue them if you have a separate promissory note with them, signed and notarized, that they have defaulted on. And even if you do, it is expensive and time-consuming to sue someone, especially if they have moved out-of-state, and practically impossible if they have moved out-of-country. You could probably never come out ahead, unless the amount owed was so large as to make it worth it. Unless you are wealthy, or a big organization, do not rely on your option to take legal action in the future, it's often just not practical. Lesson #7: WOULD I DO BUSINESS WITH THIS PERSON?: When you co-sign for a family member, there is a certain level of built in trust in the relationship, but when you co-sign for a friend, or girlfriend, or boyfriend, you are putting your faith in the future: faith that they will be around in the future and that they will always have your best interests at heart. Please wake up. People take advantage of other people all the time. Especially when it comes to money, people get scared and choose to hide under a rock, disappear, ignore the problem as if it does not exist. If you are the co-signer, you are the guarantor. If the primary borrower understands this, then they can choose to disappear and leave you holding the bag. Do not assume that the person who cares for you now will always care what happens to you. Business is business, personal is personal. When you are asked to co-sign for a loved one, ask yourself first: do I want to go into business with this person? How do they resolve conflict? If they get into trouble one day will they work with me? Or will they disappear on me? Do they have a conscience, and will they care how this affects me? Or will they see an opportunity to be off the hook? Ask yourself these hard questions. And don’t assume that they will think as responsibly as you. Don’t assume that they care what happens to their credit score, or what this means for the future. Treat the primary borrower as a person you are doing business with, and therefore someone who you need to rely on when times get tough. Chances are, you are the more responsible person here, so ask yourself, can I really afford to go into business with this person?Lesson #8: PROTECT YOURSELF: If your credit score gets damaged over a bad loan, your total financial life will be affected for a long time. It doesn't matter how good your intentions are, it doesn't matter why you got into a financial bind, it doesn't matter that your family member was sick, or that you were going through a hard time, or that you are low on money because you gave it all to charity. The current system of credit scoring requires you to keep your total financial profile in a healthy state at all times. If you are delinquent on payments, or worse, default on loan obligations, then your credit will suffer and you will be affected for a long time. You will be unable to qualify for loans, you will be unable to get good interest loans. Think about the effect this will have on your family in the future: not being able to afford a house for them because you can't get a loan, because you made a good faith error several years before. That's the reality you have to avoid, so protect yourself at all times.Lesson #9: AND FINALLY: Some people reading this will feel that I am missing the point: that of course loans carry obligations, and of course there are consequences if loan payments are missed. For the record, I relied on Sallie Mae loans to get me through college and grad school. I made all my payments on time, I paid my loans off, I even used the available 6 month deferment. But this only worked because I was responsible, because I had a plan, because I understood my monthly and total financial obligations at all times, and never made a life decision that would compromise my ability to pay. Cold reality: many people in this world are not responsible, they don't think through the consequences of their decisions, they are unable or unwilling to look at the hard facts. When you co-sign with one of these individuals, as I did, you are tethering your good name and your financial future to them. If they fail in their responsibility, they will take you down with them. Do not let this happen, protect yourself, you have worked too hard in your life to let an irresponsible person take you down. I hope you have found this posting useful. Please pass it on so that everyone can learn from my mistakes and hard-earned lessons.

My heart goes out to you. My stomach was in knots for you just reading about your situation. Thanks for the lessons learned. I co-signed a private education loan with my ex husband. I wish I had someone like you back then to sit me down and make me really think. Unfortunately, I was young and naive and never thought twice about co-signing. Even though the original loan amount was small by most standards (less than $8000), here it is 10 years later and that stinking loan is still attached to my credit rating. It's barely halfway paid off with another 10 years to go. The ex is a bit of a deadbeat so after some late payments a few years ago, he has since only made the minimum payments. At this rate, I will be ready to retire when that stupid thing is paid and off my reports. I am very conscientious about my own financial health and have less than $1000 on a credit card, a little of my own student loans, and a reasonable mortgage. BUT because I am forever listed as co-signer of this silly loan, it actually drags down my FICO rating. I could suck it up and pay off the whole balance myself in a few months time....which causes me to feel sick to my stomach. Its my only option besides watching this thing languish for 10 more years.

What is a website that can assist with getting student loans under control?

I've seen in previous post people refer others to a website that will assist you in getting your loans under control. I have multiple loans with different loan companies and I want to speak with someone to guide me through getting on the right track? Does anyone know the website?

The National Student Loan Data System is a good place to start. It will list all of your Federal student loan debt - including the amount borrowed, currently owed, status and who holds the loan. You can use this site to put together a list of who you need to contact. This system does not include private student loans, so if you have any of those you'll have to turn to your original paperwork, records from your school, or your credit report. This DoE website is a great overview of the different loan programs - it covers borrowing, repayment options, and how to get out of default (among other topics). There is no reason to pay someone to help you manage your federal student loans. Every servicer and collection agency is required to give you access to the same repayment options and pathways out of default, and you can handle it yourself, for free. If you have questions about a specific step of the process, these forums are a great resource as well.

FHA changing guidelines on deferred student loans - 6/15/15

If you weren't aware, FHA is coming out with a revised underwriting manual on 6/15/15. Currently Handbook 4155.1 is used, and while there are minor tweaks every now and then, for the most part it's remained pretty similar throughout the years. However on 6/15/15 the new Handbook 4000.1 (not sure why it's a lower number) is going into effect, and I've noticed some bigger changes (haven't gone through every section yet), one of which is a change in deferred obligations (including student loans). It reads: (G) Deferred Obligations (TOTAL)
(1) Definition
Deferred Obligations refer to liabilities that have been incurred but where payment is deferred or has not yet commenced, including accounts in forbearance. (2) Standard
The mortgagee must include deferred obligations in the Borrower’s liabilities. (3) Required Documentation
The mortgagee must obtain written documentation of the deferral of the liability from the creditor and evidence of the outstanding balance and terms of the deferred liability. The mortgagee must obtain evidence of the anticipated monthly payment obligation, if available. (4) Calculation of Monthly Obligation
The mortgagee must use the actual monthly payment to be paid on a deferred liability, whenever available. If the actual monthly payment is not available for installment debt, the mortgagee must utilize the terms of the debt or 5 percent of the outstanding balance to establish the monthly payment. For a student loan, if the actual monthly payment is zero or is not available, the mortgagee must utilize 2 percent of the outstanding balance to establish the monthly payment. "Mortgagee" means the lender. This means if you are planning on applying for an FHA loan and have deferred student loans (or other deferred obligations) that would disqualify you if their payment was included in your debt ratio, you should get moving sooner rather than later, or adjust your plans to get qualified for a mortgage. This is effective for new FHA case numbers on/after 6/15/15. To get an FHA case # you need to submit an application and also have either an address (refinance) or an accepted purchase contract (purchase).

georgiapine wrote:
Is there language about whether an income-based repayment plan counts as a sufficient calculation of the monthly obligation if that is what appears on the credit report? I believe I have seen discussions about how with USDA loans, underwriters won't accept IBR payment amounts for their DTI calculations but I am not sure what the case is here with the FHA. Is the only cause for concern is that a loan in total deferment will be calculated with a monthly payment of 2% of the loan, when previously it could be excluded if deferred for more than 12 months, or will loans in IBR be calculated at 2% too, regardless of what payment amount shows on the credit report? (I am closing on my house soon, but if I ever want to sell it and qualify for an FHA-backed loan... The house I'm buying is not my forever home.)Don't worry about it then. ^^^One thing about mortgage guidelines is that they change all the time. What is true today may be entirely different than what is true for the time you go for your new mortgage. FHA changes their guidelines. Lenders change their overlays. Conventional loans change too. It is the nature of the business. When you do decide to sell, check with a lender prior to selling to see what you qualify for based on the sale of your home. That way you know the specifics required at the time of sale.

Credit/Loan Approval Questions

Need some help on what to do to with my credit to get best interest rate. So my current scores showing in MyFico are 603, 612 and 615. Fico Auto 8 score is 629. This past weekend I was at a dealership and they pulled my credit giving me a 583? Why would there be a difference? Here's the situation.Have about 4,800 left on a car payment that has about 16 months left, interest rate was around 1.9% This is my oldest account- opened in 2011. I just read that you should keep your oldest account opened. I have about 4,700 in credit cards with the limits totalling 5,500 - I know this is high utilziation. I will have access to 5k in cash in about a month. I cannot decide what would be the best route. Should I pay off my car or pay off credit cards? Which would look better?I am leaning toward credit cards. I had a collection account that I just paid off this past month that was about $700 which is still showing as not paid - it should be updated soon - but I'm sure that will get me declined until that is updated as paid. Current payment is $310 My current income is about 2,600 per month. I don't have rent or mortage payment. I am wanting to finance for about 38-40k Would it be better to take that 5k and put as a down payment? Or maybe even pay enough to get credit cards under 30%? I also have a student loan that is in defferenment until 2018 - will this be taken into consideration to be approved? If so how do they factor this in? I have a co-signer with about 2,600 per month also if needed. What would give me the best credit profile to be approved with the best rate?To add - I want a Jeep Wrangler - does anyone know how hard or what kind of score you need to get good financing?

Southernchic wrote:
I typed the income part wrong it's about 70k combined (minimum as it can be more as my other half frequently works overtime but I've heard they only count your base income?) 1.9 would be nice but I'm not expecting to get 1.9% as circumstances were different when I got that, I think under 5 % would be do able. I was simply asking does it matter to the banks of you already have a car payment when you try to get one? And what would be the best solution. I've read you won't be approved with multiple auto loans but I've also read you shouldn't pay off or close your longest open account which is what my car loan would be. So I guess Paying off credit cards (12% rates) would be the best. I am hoping to get lower than 38-40k but I just put that out there as a max. What about the collection accounts that have been paid - will that be an automatic decline? I just checked and that account has been updated showing a zero balance but it says agreed to pay for less than full amount, this is incorrect as the original amount was wrong and I paid the correct amount we agreed to. Should I dispute this, how will that look to banks?My wife and I actually just bought her a brand new Jeep Wrangler last month so I'll give you our experience. Our combined incoming is currently around 74k. We did file for a chapter 7 bankruptcy last year so our situation may be a little different. We had trouble getting approved because neither one of us had experience with car loan above 20k. Our scores were in the 640s/650s. Under 10% credit card utilization. We ended up having to have her dad co-sign on the loan with her through Ally Financial for 37k, 1k down at 6.9%. And he has a mid-700 score 150k income. We're hoping to refinance with Navy Fed ASAP. Absolutely pay the credit cards down. To boost your score, one card should be reporting less than 10% balance, and the others zero. This will give you your best chance. And the reporting is correct if you did settle for anything less than the full amount owed.

If I buy creative cloud student plan, can I use the software on multiple computers. I have 2 laptops for school.

If I buy creative cloud student plan, can I use the software on multiple computers. I have 2 laptops for school.

Creative Cloud Help | Creative Cloud / Common Questions
Can I use the software I download from Creative Cloud on more than one machine?
Yes. Creative Cloud desktop applications can be downloaded and installed on multiple computers, regardless of operating system. However, activation is limited to two machines per individual associated with the membership. See the terms of use for more information. Learn how to deactivate a Creative Cloud license on a machine.

I want to set up a custom footer for my office documents. I have the home/student version of Office 2010 for Mac. Will I be better off purchasing Office for business or just stick with apple products.

Hi,
Can someone help me to set up a custom footer on my iMac. Currently using home/student 2010 and it does not offer a custom option. Will I need to purchase Microsoft business or would I be wasting my money. I went to the apple store for guidance and they informed me they could not help me with the microsoft products. To my surprise although apple has a version of microsoft, it is not a full version. I did not purchase the apple word, excel, powerpoint and such to avoid problems sending letters and such to pc users. Does anyone have advice or experience enough to let me know what issues may arise out of either choice.

Microsoft Office 2010 is out of date. You need to buy Office 2011.
You can get more advice here:
http://www.msofficeforums.com/

Buying a home, student loan reporting questions HELP!

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