Can FCP6 convert an HDV 1920/1080 to SD avi that could be edited inPP2.0

Can FCP6 convert an HDV 1920/1080 (EX1 files) clip to a SD avi that could be edited in Premiere pro2.0/Matrox rtx100?

Yes it should but results may be potentially disappointing.
QT based systems don't produce great AVI outputs and some sort of re-compression may be required.
Try Compressor,
In Compressor *settings tab* there's a button with a plus icon on the top right corner. Click on it and in the popdown menu choose Quicktime Export Components.
You've just created a new untitled setting. It sits at the bottom of the settings in the untitled folder.
Double click it and/or see it in the inspector window. Give it a name and in the *encoder type* menu choose AVI.
Now if you click Options button below you can change a number of settings. Remember, the higher the bit rate the better the video will look but greater wil be the size of the video.
Do some tests to find best settings. *Do not* get inpatient during the testing process.
Hope that helps,

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How can one convert a picture to 1080 pixels in height at 72 dpi and retain the aspect ratio?

The ppi has nothing to do with this. It will stay at whatever it is.
Go to image>resize>resize image, turn ON Resample image and enter 1080 for the height, making sure to leave constrain proportions turned on. Don't mess with the ppi setting.
If the image is set to another ppi setting, then after you're done with the above, go back into that window, turn OFF resample image, and set the ppi to 72. PPI only affects the inc/cm measurement.

How can I convert DVD- video into Apple's format so that it can be played and streamed from my Mac?

How can I convert DVD- video into Apple's format so that I can play the content on my Mac and also stream it to my Apple TV? A few years ago, I transferred all of my home videos onto DVD but now would really like to put these onto my Mac and stream them through Apple TV to watch on the "big screen". Any advice would be most welcome!! Thanks

MPEG Streamclip.
Apple do not have their "own" format. You need to convert your DVDs to H.264 though.

How can I convert a .pdf file to an Indesign CC file which is editable?

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Hi btacme,
I understand there are some third-party utilities that will allow you to convert a PDF to an InDesign file. But, as PDF is intended to be a final format, Adobe doesn't offer this capability. Are you unable to make the edits that you need by opening the PDF in Acrobat?
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Can I convert tracks from one format to another so that the converted tracks appear in the various playlists of the originals?

I have a large number of tracks which I should like to convert from one format to another (aiff to Apple lossless). These tracks are distributed in a large number of playlists. Can I convert a track or tracks from one format to another so that the converted track appears in the playlist of the original track without going through a laborious and error-prone process of converting each track individually, determining the playlist of the original, and allocating the converted version to the playlist (or playlists, because in many cases the original track exists in more than one playlist) of the original track.

I do not believe iTunes will do this. The files created are essentially new media files, not regarded as replacements for old files. There may be ways to trick iTunes if you are good at editing library files but that would be more trouble than it is worth.
You can check the site below but I do not recall having seen such a script.
Dougscripts - http://dougscripts.com/itunes/scripts/scriptcount.php?sortBy=Name&op=y - Many itunes scripts
If you're into writing Applescripts you could try it.

How can I convert my AVCHD footage to an easier high definition format to edit?

AVCHD UpShift, from NewBlue, convert AVCHD (hi-def MP4) to more standard HD-mpeg (hi-def MPEG .m2t), a format that is both more universally editable and which demands significantly less system resources.
http://www.newbluefx.com/avchd-upshift.html
The product sells for $49.95.
Another solution that will convert your AVCHD to formats more easily edited on a PC with no loss quality.
http://www.shedworx.com/voltaichd
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It sells for $34.99.
More information on the why's and how's of converting video for Premiere Elements can be found in my article "Converting Video for Premiere Elements", free from Muvipix.com.

A free converter that will convert AVCHD to Premiere Elements compatible hi-def MPEG2 is the Free AVCHD Converter, available from:
http://www.koyotesoft.com
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One downside is that, when you install it, it automatically downloads a search tool to your browser toolbar -- but it can easily be removed using Add/Remove Programs.
For easy editing of AVCHD and even conversion to standard DV-AVI, a great buy is Corel VideoStudio Pro X2. This editor/converter sells for $59.99.
http://www.corel.com/

How can I convert my animation into a working movie clip that can be used with a new scene?

Hello all,
First and foremost, I AM A TOTAL FLASH NOOB. I want to preface this and make it incredibly clear how new this all is to me. I LITERALLY started using flash this morning; that is precisely how new I am.
With that being said I am going to do my best to explain what I'd like to do.
I have created an animation of a spider moving its legs back and forth. I want to be able to combine all of the layers into 1 simple animation that can be imported into new flash scenes with the animation exactly how it stands. I have figured out how to convert the whole animation into a symbol AND I have figured out how to import the movie clip from the library. However, herein lies my problem. When I open a new flash scene and import my animation, I play it and it does nothing at all. It's just the static image of the spider I created with no movement.
I've spent the last couple hours trying to figure out (and doing my own research) what I have done or didn't do to get to this point. I'd be willing to bet I am just going about the entire process incorrectly and I'm simple overlooking a basic facet of the program.
Any insight to fix my ignorance is greatly appreciated.
(P.S. Hell, I don't even know if I am using the correct terminology so for all I know I am confusing every person who has taken the time to look at my question. If I am using incorrect terminology please correct me to avoid future hang ups. Thank you.)

Ned! This totally worked! Thank you! I knew there was a tiny piece of this whole thing that was preventing me from making everything work. Unfortunately as my luck would have it, although I have the movieclip working the spritesheet converter I'm using now no longer recognizes the movie clip. The converter says there are 7 frames in the animation, but doesn't display any working sprites. Just a blank sheet. Frustrating to say the least.
I'm just going to throw everything out on the table here:
This is the video tutorial i'm using to convert my animation into a spritesheet. I've done the steps exactly as directly up until the point I actually click "Begin Conversion." When begin conversion is selected, it shows the movieclip exists on the bottom left underneath "list of movieclips" but doesn't actually show any individual sprites.
Here's the simple sprite converter I am using.
The irony of this whole situation is that you have successfully helped me make a working movieclip (which was the important piece), but the converter no longer recognizes it. Whereas before, it would at least show the image on the 1 frame of animation it had.
If you wanted to to take a stab at it and see if you can successfully get it to work I'd be appreciative. If not, I totally understand as you have already been incredibly helpful and have my eternal gratitude for getting me this far. These animation programs can be quite overwhelming when they so vastly differ from one another. Don't even get me started no Anime' Studio Pro.

How can I convert the projects files (*.prel) to a AVI or WMV format? Is that possible?

I'm actually using Adobe Premiere Elements 10.

rayssasouza
There is no "Publish+Share" in Premiere Elements 10. Publish+Share/ is the Premiere Elements 11 and 12 counterpart of Premiere Elements 10's Share/.
If you have established your Premiere Elements 10 (assumed Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit) Timeline, you can export that to an .avi file and .wmv file and many other formats from the Share area. Remember, .avi and .wmv are just file extensions that wrap the video and audio compression, so, when deciding on export choices, good to keep in mind all the properties that you seek for your export. All that being said...
General idea....
For avi file...
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and then you set for the appropriate Presets.=
For .wmv file
Share
Computer
Windows Media
and then you set for the appropriate Presets =
I suspect what generated your question was that you are not seeing the AVI and Windows Media choices under Share/Computer/.
If that is so, you need to use the thin scroll bar to the right of the choices and scroll down to AVI and Windows Media to see them
and others toward the bottom of the list there.
Please review and consider. Any questions or need clarification, please do not hesitate to ask.
Thank you.
ATR

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This is a fairly common error, as a scan of the topic list will show, and likely due to a design flaw in the layout of the composition page.
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Kodak Digital Camera QuickTime MOV Problems
After battling a number of serious problems with the videos taken by my new Kodak Digital Camera, I decided to write up this page so that anyone searching the web would find out the true answers without as much grief!
I’ve also made some other comments about my experience with the camera, in case anyone was considering buying a Kodak camera in the near future.
I bought the camera just before Christmas 2004 in the US. At the time of writing, it is a pretty good model for domestic use—about 5.2 megapixels, costing about US$400 (or AU$600 back here in Australia). From a company as reputable as Kodak, I expected no problems.
The first disappointing thing was that the spring inside the spring-loaded battery clip, inside the camera, came loose within days. It proved impossible to reattach it without completely dismantling the camera, which (despite my engineering qualifications) I was not willing to do. This would usually have been a warranty item, but Kodak’s warranty does not extend to other countries. I’ve since had to jam cardboard in to keep the battery clip engaged, and have taped the battery bay shut to avoid it opening accidentally when taking the camera out of the case. This works fine with the docking station (an extra AU$100!), but it means I can no longer charge the battery without the docking station (since you need to take it out to charge it). I was not impressed!
The camera takes good photos, and I have no complaint with that. The controls and camera menus are well-designed. The large display is excellent.
The EasyShare software is not as easy to use as it looks, has a habit of crashing, has a web update program that is always running in the background of Windows, and transferring images is nowhere as easy or quick as it should be. I’ve now uninstalled it completely, and simply copy the photos directly from the device. (If the camera memory is nearly full, and you just want to transfer the last few photos, then it’s impossible to use the EasyShare software to browse the camera’s photos without it actually downloading the whole lot through the USB cable—and it takes forever! Copying from the device directly doesn’t hit this bug.)
The capability to take video using the camera was a great attraction when I selected it, and, if it worked properly, it would make it quite a handy little camcorder in its own right. With a 512 MB memory card in it, over an hour of video can be recorded at Video-CD quality (320 x 240 24fps video, 8 kHz audio). It’s not full digital video, but it would still be a pretty good feature for a US$400 camera. If it worked.
The first disappointing thing about taking videos is that the optical zoom cannot be adjusted while the camera is recording. It can only be adjusted between video sequences. I don’t know why this restriction was made in the design.
The real problems, however, start when you try to do anything with the video clips captured by the camera. Kodak has chosen to capture the videos in QuickTime format. This is fine—QuickTime is, technically, excellent—except that there is no simple way to convert QuickTime MOV files to AVI or MPEG or VCD. The Kodak software comes with a QuickTime player, so you can see the video clips on the computer you installed the software on—and they look good. Problem is that you can’t just dump those MOV files onto your Video-CD creator (it will usually want AVI or MPEG files).
It takes some time to realise that Kodak have not even bothered to include any software with the camera that can convert these MOV files to a more useful format. This is a serious PR blunder, and anyone bitten by this is unlikely to go near the Kodak brand ever again.
After some web searching, owners of these cameras generally find that the best (only?) freeware solution to convert MOV to AVI is Bink and Smacker’s RADtools program.
RADtools is amazingly powerful for the price (i.e. free), but it hits two fundamental problems with Kodak Digital Camera MOV video files, that are the fault of the Kodak camera, not RADtools. (I know this because every other MOV converter hits the same problems—except one, as you will see below.)
The first problem is that the sound cannot be converted properly. When you convert any Kodak MOV files, there is an “aliasing” of the sound at the upper frequencies. This is a technical description—you get a whispery, tinny, C3PO type of echo to everything. It really destroys the quality of the video clips (especially bad when I am trying to capture priceless memories of my 4- and 7-year-old sons—I don’t want their voices destroyed for all time).
Every conversion program I tried ended up with the same audio problem. I concluded that it is something strange in the way the Kodak cameras store the MOV files.
Strangely enough, I noticed that the QuickTime player didn’t distort the audio like this. The audio sounds just fine through QuickTime. More on this shortly.
The second, more serious problem is that RADtools could not properly convert some of the video clips at all. (This problem only affected less than 10% of the clips I originally filmed, but most of those clips were very short—less than 20 seconds. It seems that the probability of this problem gets worse, the longer the clip.) RADtools would misreport the number of frames in the clip, and would stretch out a small number of frames of video (in slow motion) to match the length of the audio.
Again, I confirmed that this is a property of some of the MOV files stored by the camera. Other conversion tools also had problems with the same MOV clips.
After more angst, I found a number of websites in which frustrated owners of these Kodak cameras have reported the exact same problems.
It was only then that I discovered that QuickTime itself can convert MOV files to AVI. Believe it or not, it’s built into the QuickTime Player that Kodak supplies, or that you can download free from apple.com. The problem is that you can’t use it unless you pay Apple to upgrade to QuickTime Pro.
After realising that this would probably be the only way to get decent audio for these clips, I paid the AU$59 to Apple Australia to get the licence key that enables the extra “Pro” menu options in QuickTime.
Sure enough, you can “Export” any MOV file to a number of formats, including AVI. And guess what? The audio comes out fine!
So, the first piece of advice I can give is: pay Apple the US$29 (or whatever amount it is in your country) to upgrade QuickTime to QuickTime Pro.
From here, however, there are still a few snags to untangle.
The first is that the default settings for Exporting to AVI don’t give a great result. It defaults to the Cinepak codec, medium quality. This looks terrible compared to the original QuickTime movie. Even on maximum quality, that codec just doesn’t give good results.
I finally found that the best option is to use the Intel Indeo Video 4.4 codec, set on maximum quality. This creates AVI files that are 10 to 20 times larger than the original MOV files, but the quality is there. If (like me) you only want the AVI files so you can dump them into your Video-CD program, then you want to keep the quality as high as possible in this first step. The extra hard disk space is not really a concern. When your VCD program converts the AVI files to MPEG, it will compress them to the usual VCD size.
Now for the biggest snag: those problem MOV files are still a problem, even for QuickTime Pro. Unbelievably, these Kodak cameras are spitting out MOV files which have some sort of technical flaw in their data specifications. QuickTime is able to play them back fine—and that seems to be all that the Kodak engineers really checked. However, if QuickTime Pro tries to export them, then when the progress bar gets to the end, it never finishes. It just keeps going. If you check the output folder with Explorer, and keep hitting F5 to update the file listing, you can see the file getting bigger, and bigger, and bigger. It never stops.
That this happens even for QuickTime itself (the native format for these files) confirms that the problem is with the software built into these Kodak cameras. It would be nice it they issued a patch or a fix. I couldn’t find one.
Fortunately, there is a “workaround” for this problem. I found it when trolling the net trying to find solutions to all these problems. The workaround is to use QuickTime Pro’s cut and paste facility. Open the problem MOV file, then press Ctrl-A (the standard key combination for “select all”—in this case it selects the entire film clip, as you can see by the grey selection of frames at the bottom of the player). Then hit Ctrl-C (i.e. copy, which in this case copies all the frames, but not the incorrect data structure in the original MOV file). Now hit Ctrl-N (i.e. new, in this case a new MOV file or player). In this new player, press Ctrl-V (i.e. paste). Now you have a new version of the MOV file with the bad data structure exorcised. You can save this under a new name, but make sure you specify “Make movie self-contained”—otherwise, it will simply be a link to the original (bad) MOV file, which you are probably going to delete once you save the exorcised version. (You also cannot overwrite the original file, because it needs to access that to make the “self-contained” movie. You need to give it a slightly different name, save it “self-contained”, then delete the original and rename the new copy back to what you wanted it to be. A pain, I agree, but at least the **** thing works—finally!)
The exorcised MOV file can now be used to Export to AVI format. (I also keep all the MOV files on a separate CD, in case I want to reconvert them to a different format in the future. I figure it’s better keeping the exorcised ones than the haunted ones.)
So I hope that all this answers a few of your questions. No, you weren’t being incredibly stupid.

Can you duplicate spreadsheets so that if you edit one, the other will change accordingly?

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Hi Jono,
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Can I convert 1920-1080 to 1280- 720 (and 29,97 fps to 50) and if so, how?

Can I convert 1920-1080 to 1280- 720 (and 29,97 fps to 50) and if so, how?
Coz the 1920-1080 clips dont come out nice.
Next time I'll shoot everything with 1 camera...

If what you want to do is mix 1920X1080 clips with 1280X720 clips, I suggest that you create a sequence by dropping a 1280X720 clip on the "New Item" button to create the new sequence.
To quote John Smith:
Please NOTE that the PPro CS6 screen may look a bit different (I use CS5)
For CS5 and later, the easy way to insure that your video and your project match
See 2nd post for picture of NEW ITEM process http://forums.adobe.com/thread/872666
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Many people refer to 29.97 as 60i and it is possible that when you wrote 50 up above, you meant 50i which is more commonly called 25. So basically, your 29.97 footage would be slowed down from around 30 to 25. You will have to speed it up 20% with Time Remapping, or just the Speed/Duration parameters. It would be better to do that in a separate sequence and then use that sequence as a clip in your main timeline.
If you actually meant 25, then you are going to have to slow down the 29.97 considerably. It might be better to interpret the 50 to 25 and add the 29.97 as I said above.
If this footage is interlaced, I suggest that you deinterlace it if one is Upper Field First and the other is Lower Field First. Those two don't play well together.

Can FCP6 convert an HDV 1920/1080 to SD avi that could be edited inPP2.0

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