Charger causes mouse problems

Hello - I guess this is both two questions and a warning. I use a 11" MacBook Air with Mac OS X Lion 10.7.5, purchased in October 2011. I am in a town in Kenya with no Apple Store. My charger got fried during some power fluctuations yesterday and I needed a new one quickly for a variety of reasons. In town I found a knock-off that seemed (and seems) to work fine with respect to charging. Got home, began using computer while charging. Within a few minutes I noticed my mouse (the mouse built into the computer) was behaving oddly and not working so well. Within an hour it was barely working at all. Restarting helped the situation for only a few minutes. I tried unplugging the charger and, voilà, the mouse worked (and works as I now write) perfectly. So the warning … you can figure that. The questions: How could a battery charger affect a mouse? If I charge only while not using the computer can I expect any problems? Thanks.

1. Restart
2. Shut down the computer.
    Clean the trackpad with moist not wet microfiber cloth.
    System Preferences > Point & Click
    Try turning off three finger dragging and then turning it on after testing.
3. Is there any Bluetooth device nearby with failing batteries? If so, replace the batteries.
4. Reset PRAM:   http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222
5. Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
6. Close all windows and quit all applications.
    Click the Spotlight -the magnifying glass icon- in the menu bar. Enter Disk utility in the box.
    Select Disk Utility. When the Disk utility window opens up,
    select Macintosh HD, then First Aid.
    Click Repair Disk Permission
    Ignore the time remaining estimate.
    Last 1 minute may take longer.

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GeForce FX 5900 drivers causing mouse problems

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Camaro Guy > Im using a ASUS A7N8X-X motherboard
I thought I may have been my PSU that was not powerfull enough (300W, I have 2 extra 80mm fans installed also) But after seeing that you use a 500W+ PSU, that cant be the problem.
Have you tryed using a older forceware driver ?
And btw, im refuseing to degrade my hw accel. in propeties, might as well have bought a Fx5200
neXuzDK

Printer causing mouse problem?

I have a Beige, but recently was given an early G3 iMac, 233mhz processor, 288mb ram.
I successfully installed OS 9.2.2 (starting with an OS 9.1 iMac disk..........the iMac had 8.6 on it) and updated the firmware; removed the hard drive, hooked it up to my Beige and copied some applications onto it.
Everything works fine, except:
When my Brother printer (USB) is turned on, whether plugged directly into an original USB port or through a powered hub, the mouse icon still shows and moves, but clicking it does nothing.
This does not happen with the Beige. The printer works just fine plugged into the USB card or hub.
I have tried 2 mice and two keyboards; I have removed all the Brother software and extensions from the hard drive and reinstalled from the Brother CD. I have gone to Brother's website and looked for updates....nothing.
Any ideas?

I'd check out the Brother CD for any 'Read Me' files which may list incompatibilities or odd behavior's.
Um... clutching at straws now but... any uneccessary printer extensions loading? Like Laserwriter etc? Maybe trash the mouse or OS preferences? I doubt they're the culprits but it's not like you'll be killing anything by trying it.
Perhaps a bare mimimum extension setup with just the OS & Brother driver/extension to see if the same problem occurs or.... I don't know, is it possible to print without the brother driver? I know the Mac OS has a standard printer driver but I thought that was just for the laserwriter and for background issues. I may be totally barking up the wrong tree on that.
In fact, I'm sure that's the silliest idea I've ever suggested here. I'm getting forgetful, wasn't it all easier when we used calculators and typewriters like Angela Lansbury?

Please Help! My battery won't charge. Not sure if this is my battery or the charger causing the problem.

I recently came down to Costa Rica to do some work abroad and last week my battery display showed it wouldn't charge higher than 15%. I've kept the charger plugged in to avoid a total shut down and everytime I do unplug I lose power. I'm not sure if this is my battery or the charger that is faulty. I'm now at 8% power and freaking out as I have work to do and I'm nowhere near an apple store or certified repair shop. I can keep my charger plugged in but must find a solution. A new charger or battery can possibly be brought to me from San Jose but I must know asap to request the product.
Any help is SOOO greatly appreciated. THANK YOU.
Some Details on my computer...

Hi Riyanna. Do you have the mag safe power cord with you and will it turn on with it? With it plugged in you should be able to go to the top right screen menu and click on battery. It should say power source power adapter. It maybe grayed out , but that is ok. That means your power adapter is working. Then it will not hurt to run the SMC reset or pram reset. The other thing is if you are using an Aplle power supply there will be a green light showing on it.

Incase auto charger causes problems?

I have had a series of "faulty" iPods (iPod--40 GB Click Wheel)--two rebooted after playing 5-10 secs of many songs, the other really locked up so that it didn't respond to the buttons. I have AppleCare, so I am on my 4th iPod.
My 4th iPod which I got in exchange 2 weeks ago at an Apple store, locked up after it was just after I plugged it into my Incase cigarrette lighter car charger. I have noticed that the other problems I have had have happened "just as I am leaving for a long car trip."
Are there any other reports of a car charger causing hardware problems with an iPod? I'm afraid to use mine now.

1. Restart
2. Shut down the computer.
    Clean the trackpad with moist not wet microfiber cloth.
    System Preferences > Point & Click
    Try turning off three finger dragging and then turning it on after testing.
3. Is there any Bluetooth device nearby with failing batteries? If so, replace the batteries.
4. Reset PRAM:   http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222
5. Reset SMC.     http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
    Choose the method for:
    "Resetting SMC on portables with a battery you should not remove on your own".
6. Close all windows and quit all applications.
    Click the Spotlight -the magnifying glass icon- in the menu bar. Enter Disk utility in the box.
    Select Disk Utility. When the Disk utility window opens up,
    select Macintosh HD, then First Aid.
    Click Repair Disk Permission
    Ignore the time remaining estimate.
    Last 1 minute may take longer.

My ipad won't start up. I downloaded iTunes on my pc while my iPad was charging - could this have caused the problem? I don't want to restore to factory settings and lose data. Any ideas or solutions? Thanks, Linda

My ipad won't start up. I downloaded iTunes on my pc while my iPad was charging - could this have caused the problem? I don't want to restore to factory settings and lose data. I also recently successfully paired my ipad with a bluetooth keypad. Any ideas or solutions? Thanks, L

FYI, your iPad will charge much faster if you plug it directly into an electrical outlet.
When doing the reset, as Jackkcc suggests, make sure you let go of both buttons fairly promptly after the apple image appears, then wait another 10 seconds or so for the iPad to start up. Note that a reset does not alter any data or settings.

MSI K7N2 Delta-ILSR, Mouse problem & Video off problem solved!!!

I find the following information that I collected very interesting at the very least...
Here goes...
The video off problem that I was having was directly linked to the mouse. Here, let me explain the video off problem. In the BIOS Have the Standby mode set to S3. The problem occurred when I started windows, then went into standby, then started back up, then restarted the computer, the monitor would act as if it were in sleep mode, or rather there was no signal being sent to the monitor. Well the odd way I fixed that is by plugging in a standard 2 button PS/2 mouse. Also this fixed the issue with the mouse sometimes not working in windows.
Here is how I tested.
Logitech MX700 Cordless Optical Mouse, PS/2 & USB= failed.
Logitech iFeel Optical Mouse, USB= failed.
Microsoft Cordless Ball Mouse, PS/2= failed.
Standard Artec (Cheapy brand) Ball Mouse (With no wheel), PS/2= All issues fixed, and passed.
When I said failed I do not mean they didn't work, I mean they sometimes didn't work and also caused the Video off problem after restarting the computer.
Obviously it isn't the ports (PS/2 or USB) that are the problem, it is more like the mouse itself, and the amount of buttons in particular. As you can see above the only mouse that works correctly is the one that only has 2 buttons, the rest has 3 or more buttons along with a Wheel. The MX700 has 8 buttons + wheel, WOW!
Anyways I figure out it was the mouse, and not the memory.
Obviously MSI needs to make a patch for this mouse problem.
I'm still having a hard time believing that the mouse caused the video not to work, but it is true! I spend well over 5 hours testing this crap. Every time with the mice with more then 3 buttons it messed up, and every time with the 2 button old fashion mouse it worked flawlessly!
MSI, get to work on a new BIOS to fix this mess!!! :]
BioHaz

Quote
Originally posted by Raven_
hi
its possible to use an ps/2 mouse AND a usb mouse at the same time.
i used the ps/2 mouse in windows and the usb mouse when playing games.
you can get some trouble if you do it the way i did it.
i was in windows surfing and the pointer just jumped all over the screen.
when i looked on the other side under a table a friends little kid played with the usn mouse. )
bye
LOL, that isn't what I'm talking about.
There seems to be a problem with my motherboard accepting mice with more then 2 buttons. It works the first time, but if you restart the computer, the video goes off. If you have both installed, it still messed up.
BioHaz

Weird mouse problem (clicks not being performed, -)

Recently I am suffering from a really weird problem.
The middle mouse button shows a really strange behaviour:
I'm using KDE from [extra], and middle clicking e.g. a link in a webbrowser (no matter which toolkit it uses) instead of opening one tab, opens the link in several tabs.
Also middle clicking on a tab, normally should close *one* tab, while here it often closes more than one tab. Since this happens in every application I use, no matter which toolkit is used, this cannot be a KDE/Qt problem, since e.g. Firefox is affected by it too. I also doubt that GTK is the cause of this problem…
[The middle clicking problem has been solved, by cleaning the mouse wheel]
[The problem below, still persists]
Furthermore, sometimes my laptop looks like it enters a "state", where my clicks are not "performed" the normal way:
E.g. I had a media player running, when my laptop got into this "state". No matter where I clicked on this app, the clicking action was performed on the Play button. Using Alt+Tab to focus another window/bring it to the front, and clicking in this window anywhere again resulted in the Play button getting clicked.
After quitting the media player app (through a keyboard shortcut) my clicks still did not work normal. They still simply were not performed. In order to "re-gain" the ability to click, I had to log out first.
Since I've setup my Arch Linux not to automatically start X/KDM after logging out, I found myself in the terminal, where I ran startx, in order to run KDE.
The terminal still had some output of my X session, but it wasn't displayed with normal characters, but rather with some weird characters, looking all scrambled and stuff, as you can see on the screenshot. http://imagebin.org/100067
I currently use the packages from the testing repo, but IIRC this behaviour was there even before installing the testing repo packages.
Extra information:
kernel26 2.6.34-1
xorg-server 1.8.1-1
nvidia 195.36.24-2
xf86-input-evdev 2.4.0-1
I run Arch Linux x86_64 on an Acer 5741G Laptop, with a NVidia Geforce GT 320M.
Interestingly, another user who suffers from the same bug is running a computer with intel graphics, so it probably is not the nvidia driver causing the problem either.
Originally the bug was reported as a rekonq bug: https://bugs.kde.org/show_bug.cgi?id=238987
Thank you
Last edited by pano (2010-06-09 11:43:21)

Hello,
I seem to suffer from the same problem. Sometimes (perhaps triggered by amarok, but I have to investigate this further before blaming this app) the left mouse button stops working. I can not perform left-klicks anymore. Everything is fine with the right button. If I log out and in again the mouse if fully back. In this loop X has not been restarted.
My setup:
KDE 4.4.5 (official packages)
X: X.Org X Server 1.8.1.902 (1.8.2 RC 2)
kernel: 2.6.34-ARCH #1 SMP PREEMPT
architecture: x86_64
mouse: Logitech MX1000 Laser (Logitech, Inc. MX-1000 Cordless Mouse Receiver)
If s.o. will ever work in this I will be happy to provide any information I can come up with.
Cheers and good night.

My iphone 4 suddenly blank, i thought it is out of battery and put on a charger, but in few minutes later my iphone turns to be too hot on the right half side of its body. i pull off the charger. whats the problem is this?

my iphone 4 suddenly blank, i thought it is out of battery and put on a charger, but in few minutes later my iphone turns to be too hot on the right half side of its body. i pull off the charger. whats the problem is this?
the next day i tried to connet with itunes on pc, but its undetectable. what should i do? i think i will need to delete notes, pivtures and video recordec by the iphone itself but how to do this since the phone cant be on at all. lease help me. its only 7moths old since i buy it

i try to reset but nothing happened. & my warranty had end bcause i bought thru small dealer with a month's shop warranty only. due to problem of getting hot of the iphone's right side body, is it may cause of battery problem? how much will it cost to solve/repair this kind of problem?
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Apple Mighty Mouse problem

I bought a Apple Mighty Mouse for my MacBook and now when I'm moving the cursor it instantly appears in another position that has nothing to do with the positioning I'm moving it. Do you know why this happens? Can you help me?

If its the wireless Mighty Mouse, I had problems with tracking, too.
(Also right button click, but that's a whole 'nuther story)
Some put it down to possible RF interference from other devices causing the problem, while my local Genius put it (and the click issue) down to a botched MM. In the end I gave up and went to a Macally BTMouse Jr. No problems at all.

Mouse problems with v10.7 Lion and VMWare Fusion 3.1.3; reboot of Lion temporarily fixes it

Since installing Lion, my VMWare Fusion 3.1.3 Windows 7 and XP virtual machines have very strange mouse problems. I thought it might have been caused by 3rd party software on my iMac (Mouse Zoom), because it seemed to work after removing the software, but I have now discovered that it is actually the reboot of OS X v10.7 (and now v10.7.1) that temporarity removes the problem. However, after a while the problem comes back, requiring another reboot of Lion.
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I have deleted and reinstalled VMWare Fusion 3.1.3 per suggestions on the VMWare support site and/or various forums, but that did not help.

According to: http://roaringapps.com/app:61 Version 3.1.3 has issues with Lion. There is a 2011 beta that works better.

Odd mighty mouse problem...applecare replacement?

This morning my mighty mouse(cable) was having a scrolling issue most likely caused by gunk-buildup. I gave it a cleaning, the way I usually do, although I used a different cloth(which might have NOT been lint free) after this cleaning, the scroll ball felt odd against my middle finger, than it normally does, kinda like it was 'lower'.
Because of this, it won't scroll properly AT ALL, if I attempt to scroll up or down it sorta feels like it 'skips a beat' and will not scroll down or up a page more than a few centimeters. I gave it several additional cleanings using my 'usual' cloth this time, but it sorta feels like the ball is dislodged or something. Shortly after, I found that whenever I attempted to close/open a file/window, the mouse would not respond at all and any additional clicks within my browser opened that secondary scroll-4-point arrow thing, it was completely unusable, and would not let me open/close/initiate ANYTHING afterwards.
I had to use my wacom in order to do anything, though was relieved it wasn't a problem with my mac since the pen stylus/wacom mouse still worked fine. I was able to get into my mouse settings, and oddly enough disabling the 2 side grey buttons, fixes most of the problem, but i am still unable to scroll via the scroll wheel and while these 2 buttons are disabled, it won't 'right-click' at all.
Did I really mess up the mouse that bad by using a different, probably non-lint free cloth? and if so does apple care cover the replacement of a mouse?

AppleCare replaced my Mighty Mouse. I took it to an Apple Store. The guy at the Genuis Bar took it to the back room to attempt a cleaning. I was not asked if I tried to clean it.
Unless your "non-lint free cloth" was wet toilet paper or paper napkin, I don't think it would cause this problem.

Transparent image causes flattening problem

Hi,
I have a 34 page booklet that I am exporting as a swf file. When I add a transparent png file to the booklet (it makes the book look like it has a spiral binding) the file will NOT export anymore. It gets to page 17, quits and the error message says something like, "there was an error while flattening".
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Sounds strange, I have used a lots of transparent images in INDD layouts and exported them as SWF succesfully. Have you tried to use Photoshop PSD-format? And you could also create a new layer for that spiral...
If you want to get your book centered and equipped with preloader, go to Adobe Marketplace and download eDocker:
http://www.adobe.com/cfusion/marketplace/index.cfm?event=marketplace.offering&offeringid=1 7503&marketplaceid=1
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My PS/2 mouse problem :(

for some time now i boot up the computer and every other time the mouse works, i now use a usb keyboard and before when i had a ps2 keyboard it was that that wouldnt work, sometimes the mouse wouldnt work and when i restarted with pressing Ctrl+Alt+Delete twice and tabbed to the shutdown in the box that came up when it was time for windows to let me log in my keyboard wouldnt work and i had to use the mouse to restart, eventually the mouse and keyboard would work together after a few restarts using this method.
well now i have a usb keyboard and it works all the time so the mouse now works every other boot or reboot, i am guessing maybe i should of gotten a usb mouse along with the keyboard but the keyboards that came with mice together were kind of ugly and small so i got the Gigaware usb keyboard, plus four of the five usb slots in the back of my computer are currently being used(one for this keyboard, one for my gigaware headphones, one for my webcam, and one for my printer) the only one empty is the one connected to the D-link Bracket thing that has the four lights that light up a certain pattern to tell you if any problems, i had my ipod shuffle hooked up to it once recently and when i opened or restarted my computer nothing would load up, really not sure why so i dont leave the ipod shuffle connected to my computer, just that time to test it because i just got it not too long ago, been trying to resolve my computer issues so no time to do anything with it lol
so back to the main issue....my mouse works but every time i restart it doesnt or if i start up my computer it doesnt work and then when i restart it then it works. I have searched for the passed month with google looking for similar issues with this mouse problem and i have seen a few people with the same problem but no solution, i personally will be getting in more detail than any of these people have been in those forums i have visited.
so i have tried a few different things to try and correct this problem and none have worked so far. I have looked in the BIOS for any setting related to the mouse and have found nothing, i have uninstalled the mouse in Device Manager and restarted my computer still with the mouse being detected and sometimes not until reboot
the last thing i did was most interesting to me, i had my computer shut down and thought to try and see what happens if i have no mouse physically installed so i unplugged it and turned on my computer and when the screen came up for me to log into windows there was the pointer in the middle of the screen just the same as the times my mouse would be frozen and i need to restart to make it work.
now further into my observatory skills hehe i happened to eventually get really curious at the boot up screen after the detecting of my drives and before the microsoft windows logo and i got more near to what i think is causing this mouse issue yet i dont know how to correct it, i pressed Pause/Break to read what was there because it was to fast to read in the first place and i finally notice it is PCI listing devices and there is a list of devices and IRQs that each one is using, before all that though i noticed in my readings that the mouse IRQ was 12 always and this part of the screen that i saw really confused me was that after many tests i noticed that each time the mouse didnt work i had seen when i froze the screen to read that IRQ 12 was being used by SMBus Cntrlr and also Multimedia device and when i restarted then those two were using IRQ 11 and my mouse worked
this was really strange and i do believe that this is part of the source of my mouse not working, i am stuck and have been for some time now on this and i dont know what i need to do from here, i was also thinking maybe i need a new power supply because sometimes when i first start up my computer i can tell my processor fan struggles to spin a little even after it is clean and i do clean out dust on a regular basis, but i dont know about the power supply thing, its just a guess because i think it may be pushing out as much juice as it can to power up all four of my usb connections, my processor, my fan, my video card, and my mouse which has that frozen in the middle of the screen problem when i boot up my computer before i can log into my windows account
also i am more moving away from my power supply hypothesis because i can leave my computer open for a long period of time and my mouse never freezes up, i really need some help with this, thank you for the time spent in reading all this and any help i may be offered to correcting this issue, i have a couple more questions but they are not related to this issue so i will submit this one and send my other questions in a different message, thank you again

ok first of all i would like to thank all those who have read and given input and helped me with everything, thank you all so much
second is the story i have left out from the start of my blue screen of death problem and what it may have to do with the RAM.......
two days ago i started to put together my motherboard in my new case and new RAM and power supply, first i started with the motherboard transfer, i unscrewed it all fine and put inside the new case, but before i had it laying on my bed while i prepared the screws inside the new case, i put in my cd drive and hard drive, then i installed the power supply and connected everything, when it got to the RAM i took out the one 512 and the 256 and left the other 512 as it was and if you know about the K7N2-L motherboard then you know that two RAM slots are side by side and one is a little further off, well the one that was a little further off had the 512 so i put the 2x1Gb Patriots in the slots that were together
then i started installing more of the power connectors from the power supply and i noticed on my bed one little piece and had no idea where it came from, i started looking and thinking where have i seen a similar piece before and then saw that it was a RAM clip and how it came of the slot eludes me even to this moment, i didnt think it a big deal so i took the 512 out of the slot it was in and put the 1gb in its place and the 512 in the middle of the two 1gb chips, so one 1gb and the 512 were in the slots side by side and the other 1gb chip was in the slot further away from the other two and that was the one with the broken clip, yet it ran through the memory tests and even showed up in Sandra but i am thinking now that maybe it is the reason why i have gotten 26 blue screens of death since yesterday when i first started up my system
so now i removed the 512 and put in its place the 1gb from the broken clip slot and i started it all up and went in bios and see the timing are automatically set at 2.0-3-2-5 and so i also set the frequency voltage at 2.7V just as a test and so far since i have been typing this message i see no blue screen
the broken clip slot is broken at the clip but i had it in there and when the chips was installed i tugged a little to make sure it was being held in there and the fact the memory showed up on my system lets me know that it registered but i think that because they are two different types of RAM they may not have been compatible so i was getting the blue screens, the patriots are stock timed at 2.0-3-2-5 @ 2.7V and the Corsair is 2.5-3-3-8 @ 2.5V but then i think again it is because of the broken clip slot now because before when my system had the two 512 and the one 256 chips and no broken slot clips and i had the voltage set at 2.6 and also 2.7 with no BSOD issues............
so now here i am Single Channel Ram with timings of 2.0-3-2-5 at 2.7V and no blue screen so far but that extra 512 would have been nice but oh well i guess, maybe 750 mb more RAM than i had before is not so bad.......but i am power hungry just as are the rest of you when it comes to the computer system
i wish i had one more 1bg patriot chip to test my theory but then again if it didnt work i will have an extra chip to look at which will make me go
well i guess that is it for now, it is just a time issue now to see how this 2gb works out for me, but i want 2.5 gb
my next project is new motherboard and new processor and new ddr2 or ddr3 RAM but by the time i need that upgrade ddr5 or 6 may be in use i hope in that time the prices are good and for some reason AMD gets my attention more than intel, i dont know why
well ok i have been typing this for quite some time now and no blue screen so this is good news, i guess the question now is do you think the problem was due to the broken RAM slot clip or because the Corsair RAM was timed to run at 2.5-3-3-8 at 2.5V and the Patriots' are timed at 2.0-3-2-5 at 2.7V and together they are just not compatible?
thanks again for everything

Charger causes mouse problems

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