Computer to LCD TV

Hi, Is it possible to connect my G4 to my LCD TV, so I am able to use the tv as a monitor, how would I do that? Thanks

Hey, I completely overlooked the fact that I would be able to AirPlay from the iPhone and iPad to the Apple TV. I don't have to AirPlay directly to the speakers. Duh. Thanks! I'll check out the Samsung Sound bar.

Similar Messages

Why do panel array positions change when I move to a computer with LCD screen?

I wrote a program in the lab and then moved it to the production area which
has a computer with an lcd monitor. The program has 3 arrays of clusters on
the front panel and each contain both controls and indicators. When I moved
it to the production computer the 3 array moved somewhat from their proper
positions. Also, each one moved a different distance. I wanted them to be
aligned so I ended up moving them out of alignment on the uncompiled copy so
that the production copy would be aligned correctly. Is there something
funny about lcd screens? Labview property node reports they are already
aligned and of equal height. Is there a way of forcing the arrays to align
no mat
ter what computer it is installed on?

I've seen this before. If the resolutions are different it scales certain fonts
differently causing your controls to move. You need to make sure your using a
common font type and size between them or change your resolution on your desktop
to match the lcd's.
You can check the font on both machines to match them. One might have Arial 13,
20, 28 and the other Ariel 14, 20, 26. If you pick 20 it will go back and forth
ok, properly scaled.
Jim
Adam Russell wrote:
> I wrote a program in the lab and then moved it to the production area which
> has a computer with an lcd monitor. The program has 3 arrays of clusters on
> the front panel and each contain both controls and indicators. When I moved
> it to the production computer the 3 array moved somewhat
from their proper
> positions. Also, each one moved a different distance. I wanted them to be
> aligned so I ended up moving them out of alignment on the uncompiled copy so
> that the production copy would be aligned correctly. Is there something
> funny about lcd screens? Labview property node reports they are already
> aligned and of equal height. Is there a way of forcing the arrays to align
> no matter what computer it is installed on?

Why isn't ATV able to play my movie rental through iTunes on my Mac?-I can see it on ATV through the computer icon but it won't play.

So I've had my Gen 2 ATV for a little less than a year..it's been great...up to last week! Now nothing downloads and all I get is ''able to view in 90 hours...all week it's not gone under 70 hours. So I went to Itunes on my Mac and downloaded it again thinking it should show up as a rental through the computer on ATV..it does it's right there...but can I play it? Heck no! First it gets the icon showing its buffering..or whatever it's doing and it just stays there doing nothing..then I tried it again an hour later and I get an error message that I need to authorize my computer....I go back to check in Itunes and of course the computer is authorized.
I've just spent $12 on the same movie trying to get it to work and I'm just so over reading in all the forums but finding nothing that will fix this issue. Does Apple even care? Sooo many people with problems and no help to fix the issues. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH MY INTERNET CONNECTION!
How about Apple just fixing whatever it is that's wrong? I can only think it has something to do with the last update I did since nothing has worked properly with movies since then.

Hello there, Abigail.
It sounds like you are unable to watch an HD download becuase of the message saying that your display must support HDCP. The following Knowledge Base article offers up nformation on why this message can pop up:
iTunes for Windows: Unable to view or play HD video content that requires HDCP
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3354
High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection (HDCP) is a security feature requiring the use of HDCP certified products in order to display digital media like High-defintion (HD) video. In iTunes for Windows, in order to view HD content, both the display hardware (computer screen, LCD, external monitor, and so on) and video card driver must support HDCP. For additional information on purchasing and viewing HD Videos, refer to iTunes: Purchasing and viewing HD Videos.
If you want to download the SD version you can do so from Purchases in iTunesas shown by this article:
iTunes 11 for Windows: Download previous purchases from the iTunes Store
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH12491
Click iTunes Store near the top of the iTunes window.
Click the Purchased link at the right of the iTunes Store homepage (below Quick Links).
In the page that appears, select a category.
iTunes shows you which of your purchases are available for download. You can view all of your past purchases, or just the ones not currently in your iTunes library. Items already in your library aren’t available for download.
If you select Music, you can view your purchases by song, artist, or album. If you’re viewing by album, click an album to see which songs on it are available for downloading.
To search for an item, type its name or a keyword in the search field, and then press the Return key to view your search results.
To download an item, click its Download button .
Be sure to uncheck the Download HD When Available in the lower right corner before downloading the movie.
Thanks for reaching out to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Pedro.

Macbook Pro to Toshiba LCD via HDMI screen shuts off

I have a mid 2010 model Macbook pro hooked up to a 46'' Toshiba LCD tv using the moshi connector and an HDMI cable. Every 25-30 minutes the screen goes black for 2-3 seconds as well the sound turns off. The picture then comes back, usually to shut off again for 2-3 seconds then will remain on for another 25-30 minutes. This happens each time I connect the laptop to the computer.
I have returned the TV, connector, and HDMI cables and the issue has continue to happen. This leaves me thinking that it must be an issue with the computer. Does any one have any tips or ideas as to what I can do to stop this? Its really irritating to try and watch a movie to have the picture cut out periodically.
Thanks

Hi, Guys
I'm using a MacBook Pro with a Samsung 610 52" color monitor for studio video production.
I'm using an adapter to hook up the TV to the Mac via VGA. There are times when I can get the image on the screen, but any time I either start cold or have to change a cable, I get the message "check signal cable." I originally thought the problem was the cable, but changing out three different "known to be good" cables did not resolve. When select system preferences=>displays=>gather windows, the Samsung window with resolution options opens. Nothing as of yet immediately resolves the problem, but if I **** around with it long enough (plug and unplug cables, turn both computer or LCD off and on), eventually I get a picture. And yes, I never had this problem when we were using a Dell Inspiron. Any suggestions or resolutions, please let me know.

Computer Monitor Progressive vs. HD progressive

OK, so we all know that if a project is going to be broadcast, you have an NTSC monitor set up when you're editing, right? Because the computer monitor is a progressive display, it isn't the best when it comes to color correction or interlacing/deinterlacing issues (as seen in many a thread here when people say "XXXX looks really bad when I see it in the canvas" only to have someone say "Have you looked at it on a TV or NTSC monitor?). So we're all in agreeance (is that even a word?) that computer monitors (LCDs like the Apple's Cinema Display) are not the best to view this stuff, right?
That said, how come all HD televisions (smaller than 52 inch plasmas) are LCD progressive? Isn't that just like watching something on a computer monitor?
Just wondering.
Jonathan

Progressive plasma and LCD TV's have powerful de-interlacers built into them, they effectively take the 480i60 image and upscale, and interpolate it into a 480p60 image, in real-time, there is a delay in the picture because of this, and the sound has to be delayed to match - it is quite noticeable when playing rhythm action games on consoles (like Guitar Hero).
Some do it better than others, and some don't do it at all (discard 1 field to make a 240p30 image, and blend).
The same is true of 1080i60 images being turned into 720p60 or 1080p60 by HDTV's, again, some do it badly, or not at all.
What I do on a computer, is use compressor to take i60 sequences and use the advanced format conversion to set the frame controls up to create a p60 sequence, for viewing on a monitor. It takes a long time to do, but looks pretty decent, and still maintains the fluid movement I expect from video (60 updates per second).
For instance, taking 1080i60 HDV and making 720p60 DVCProHD seems to work quite well.

CALIBRATING LCD MONITORS IN YOUR WORKFLOW

HEY
WONDERING IF ANYONE IF CALIBRATING THEIR APPLE LCDS WITH ANYTHING LIKE THE EYEONE OR PANTONE STUFF BEING THAT THE COLOR OR NTSC DIFFERS AS WELL AS A REGULAR CRT ?
ARE YOU SEEING BIG DIFFERENCES AND WHAT ARE YOU USING TO CALIBRATE THEM WITH.
IM NOT TALKING ABOUT CALIBRATING NTSC MONITORS JUST LCD'S.
G5 2.5,QUAD,MBPRO 17 , PBG4 15 Mac OS X (10.4.8) FCP STUDIO , SHAKE, AE 7

First off, take off your caps lock. Shouting won't get you far here.
Second, I used the Pantone to calibrate my Dell 2405 monitors, and they look good. The stuff I do in Photoshop comes out lookng right.
BUT...you cannot calibrate a computer monitor (LCD or CRT) to match the gamma characteristics of a broadcast monitor. You can come pretty close, but there will be a noticable difference.
Are you trying to use a computer monitor to color correct a show for broadcast?
Shane

TS3354 What is the solution for the error message when playing movies on a windows computer that doesn't support HDCP?

How do I make my Windows computer Dell Latitude E7440 play the movies I just purchased? I am getting the message, "To play this movie in HD, your PC must have Windows 7 and a built-in display or a display that supports HDCP."
Is there a fix or solution ot this problem? Please help!

Hello Mendeezee,
Depending on the age of the monitor, you may not be able to playback any HD content that is purchased in iTunes. One way to check is to download the SD version that comes with the HD version. Check out the articles below for more clarification.
iTunes for Windows: Unable to view or play HD video content that requires HDCP
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3354
iTunes: Purchasing and viewing HD videos
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3209
In iTunes for Windows, in order to view HD content, both the display hardware (computer screen, LCD, external monitor, and so on) and video card driver must support HDCP.
Note: Depending on your computer's hardware limitations, you may be unable to purchase, rent, or view HD content from the iTunes Store. If you are trying to view HD video on an external display, the display must have a digital connection (DVI, DisplayPort, or HDMI) and support HDCP.
Regards,
-Norm G.

Ibook bright spot left bottom corner LCD on boot

Hello Everyone,
First post here on the forums, and I'd like to thank all those who post answers regularly, in advance. You're knowledge and advice is very much appreciated.
I picked up a well cared for ibook g4, that I'm running OS x 10.5 on. The only fault, I've been able to find, is that on boot the gray screen, has a bright spot (almost like shining a penlight) in the bottom left corner. Would this be a dead pixel? or could it be another issue altogether.

Hello, and welcome to Apple Discussions!
The display, being a backlit liquid crystal display panel,
would have dark pixel squares of they were dead; or
if they are stuck, on one color that may have seen a
bit of time on the screen, such as a background.
Some people have been able to massage or lightly rub
the area a stuck (light or dark) pixel area of a flexible
LCD panel {the newer ones have a hard glass cover}
and if very careful to not further damage the display,
sometimes the pixel square that had not been active
or had been stuck, be it a color or just black, lit up.
I've tried this, using the back of a finger nail and to
be sure to avoid the end where it may be sharp; or
use a rounded small object that is not too small &
not sharp, to gently rub around the area and watch.
{Near some of the edges, behind the LCD panel, is
where the cold fluorescent backlight bulbs meet
the frame behind the LCD and its protective cover.
There may be something in there that has moved
over time, a bright pixel, or maybe a sample defect.}
A very bright light, on the other hand, may not be
just a white color, stuck, there may be a problem
in the mask or edge of the LCD panel where for
some reason, the cold fluorescent backlight shines
through or around the LCD panel, set in front of it.
Since I am not an expert, I can only tell you what
I know and have tried; and I also have read about
this kind of issue with stuck-on, or off, LCD bits.
There had also been some software that could test
and change colors in the display, to give it exercise
to see if the video processor and panel were OK;
and to tell if there were a problem in that system.
Not sure if the original Apple Hardware Test that
had been included with the computer when new as
part of the software packet (on installer DVD disc#1)
was included in your purchase; but that may be a
way to test the general condition of the hardware.
It may miss such subtle items as one bright place
on the computer's LCD panel.
If you are in a real city with an official Apple Store,
you may see about getting an appointment with
an expert genius to have them take a look and if
they have any ideas, they could share them. At
this time, given the holiday, you may have to wait
for some time after the first week in January or so;
but contacting a specialist who knows Apple LCD
and can identify the cause of a very bright place on
the panel (by cause and cure) may also be helpful.
Other than the expert's observation and experience,
which would be the best way to go, I can only suggest
some trial and error method of trying to make it work.
And do not press hard at all on the flexible surface of
the LCD panel. You can see the discoloration of the
normal pixel bits on the screen as you touch it lightly.
The back of the finger and away from the edge of a
fingernail can be about the right tool for the job; others
have used a soft pencil eraser (white synthetic, clean)
to rub their display areas to do this.
I'd suspect a very bright pin-point of light from an LCD
panel in a small location should be investigated; in
part to see if there is any physical damage or defect
that may mean something more involved, or not. I'd
go as far as to turn down the brightness and look at
the bright place with a magnifier to see if something
could be seen around the edges of the bright pixel.
Since there is a plastic outer layer that should protect
the LCD panel, there should be no outward evidence
of someone accidentally pressing a sharp point into it.
Unless there is obvious evidence, I'd think it was a
stuck pixel... Or some minor defect in the panel.
If only a stuck pixel, a tool such as JScreenFix applet
may help, it runs a series of colored random shapes
in a pattern and that may reset the color of the LCD
so all of the supported ones are exercised.
Some ideas are presented here, along that thought:
How to: Fix a Stuck or Dead Pixel
http://www.unplggd.com/unplggd/software/how-to-fix-a-stuck-or-dead-pixel--095332
JScreenFix, some ideas/links, and to launch applet test:
http://www.jscreenfix.com/basic.php
the JScreenFix test in a browser window
{their suggestion to use F11 for full-screen does not work}
http://www.jscreenfix.com/applet.php?width=1440&height=900
Good luck & happy computing!
{ edited to add links }

Replaced T61 motherboard, LCD still does not work!

The LCD on my Thinkpad T61 recently died. I started by ordering a new inverter, since that was a possible cheap fix for the problem. When the first replacement inverter did not work, I tried another one, and the LCD still did not work. Because the laptop outputted fine to an external monitor, I was led to believe (from reading many forum posts online) that the issue may either be with my Nvidia 140M graphics card or with a fuse on the motherboard delivering power to the internal LCD. When I held a flashlight to the LCD, I could not see anything at all (not even a faint display, as would be the case with a bad backlight).
In an attempt to rectify both of those problems, I ordered a brand new system board. The replacement motherboard had Intel graphics instead of NVidia graphics. After I swapped everything in and turned on the computer, the LCD screen briefly worked, but none of the status LEDs on the inverter board worked (except for the Wi-Fi light on the far left). After I turned off the computer and turned it back on, the internal LCD stopped working again.
If I hold up a flashlight to the LCD, I can see a faint image when I boot up. However, once the computer boots into Windows, this faint image disappears even if I shine a bright light at the LCD. This leads me to believe that something may be wrong with the backlight. [u]However, would a bad backlight alone also cause most of the lights on the inverter board to not work? Currently, only the LED for Wi-Fi on the far left works. I'm skeptical that the problem is with the inverter board, since I've tried THREE different inverters (the original one that came with my computer and 2 replacements I bought on eBay). I've inspected the LVDS cable and it does not seem to be damaged. I've also double and triple-checked all of the LCD connections to ensure that they are firmly in place.
What else could be possibly causing the problem here? I was very much encouraged when the LCD worked for a few minutes after I swapped the motherboard, but after that it never worked at full brightness again.

I think you've gone way overboard fixing this thing. A simple display swap from a working unit would have told you which direction to go to look for the cause, and I'd hate to think what you spent on a new system board... and with so much cheap used parts available, you probably could have done this alot cheaper, and faster.
If you were local I'd offer to help you diagnose this, but if you have one of the common screens and you deside you want to replace it, I may have one, or be able to find you one.
Either way, good luck and I hope you get this thing fixed after all you've put into it.
Good luck
ThinkPad W-510 i7-820QM(1.73-3.06GHz) Quad Core... ThinkPad T500, T9900, 8gb SSD...FrankNpad T-60p/61p (X9000 2.8ghz) 8gb SSD ips FlexView...ThinkPad T-61p (T9300 2.5ghz) 8gb ram...Thinkpad X-61 Tablet 4gb ram...ThinkPad A-31 (1.9ghz P4 1.5gb ram)

Assets Master Data List

Hi All,
I have created all the assets and need to extract the report of master data list which show descripation 1, descripation2, serial number, capitalized etc appear as per below screen shot. Please advise how i extract this type of report.
Description          COMPUTER
                     UD367- LCD, 14.1 XG, VESA, SMSNG
Asset main no. text COMPUTER
Acct determination   ITHW       IT Assets Hardware
Serial number
Inventory number
Quantity             5                   EA    each
Last inventory on
Inventory note
Capitalized on       12.03.2009              Deactivation on
First acquisition on 12.03.2009              Plnd. retirement on
Acquisition year     2008 012
Thanks & Regards,
Pankaj

Hi,
Please check the below thread.
[capitalization asset report.;
And follow the procedure as i was explained to her.
Thanks,
Srinu

HDTV as video monitor

I just bought a HDTV to use as a video monitor with fcp5, as cinema display not through firewire. According to the manual I need to use the RGB HD15 cable to connect to computer, I can't use the HDMI converted to dvi and plug that direct. So with the rgb, in the monitor setting, on mac not tv, it will not recognize it as 1920x1080, the most I can get is 1024x768. Therefore I do not have a widescreen monitor anymore. I have black bars on left and right. So after projecting 16:9 hd footage on the tv, I get black bars on top and bottom too, because it thinks it is standard 4:3. Any ideas??? Thanks

After reading this, you'll probably think twice about 1080p:
http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages_b/reality.html
HD-TV really is in its infancy, and the desire to really have a good combination TV and monitor in a single TV is still years from achieving its dreams.
You can add TV to your computer directly via Elgato's EyeTV boxes and use a regular Computer monitor LCD. That may be the more reasonable solution for someone who wants the best of both worlds, and doesn't cost the premium that 1080p sets currently cost in the market.

Mac mini and display

any one can tell what is the best or posible display for mac mini 1.25mhz ? thanks

Hmmm.
As far as LCD's go, I have been doing a bit of research for the purchase of one.
Consider first what you wish to use the computer for, LCD's are becoming fairly specialized, and typicall fall into these categories:
1) Office/Word processing - Not too bright, so fairly easy on the eyes, not too fast, not too expensive. "action" in movies will not be as smooth or clear as on a CRT
2) Professional Image editing - accurate colors, excellent image, fairly expensive, not too fast. Ditto about movies... these have excellent color, but response time for a LCD is much greater than for a CRT.
3) Gaming - colors are inaccurate, may be bright, but very fast response. Probably not an easy monitor to sit in front of for word processing. Also, some in this category add noise to movies, so while the action may appear more fluid, you will have to contend with flashing and or off colors.
There are a few monitors that fill more than one category, and I opted for one of these. Have a look at Tom's Hardware for a current review of LCD monitors for a better idea of what to expect:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/03/27/thespring_2006_lcdcollection/page37.html
Mac Mini, 1.66GHz Intel Core Duo Mac OS X (10.4.6) Averatec 3200 & PII 450MHz; Both Dual Boot: Linux + Windows; AE

Vga cable: 14 vs 15 pin

I recently bought VGA splitter, that's 14 pin. My VGA cable is 15 pin.
After connecting the Cable to the splitter the monitor resolution goes down, then if the VGA cable is directly connected to the PC vga adapter.
So, I looked online to see diffrence between the 14 and 15 pin VGA. I could not find much information, but few blogs. They say 1 or 2 pins are obsolute, so there is no diffrence between 14 and 15 pin cable.
Then, I boght a 14 pin VGA cable to try. But it don't give the high resolution as 15 pin cable. It's same low resolution picture as 15 pin cable with splitter attached.
So is it right that 14 and 15 pin VGA cables are same, and if that's right do I need and display setting changed?
Connecting 14 pin cable don't even give the resolution option as 15 pin cable give in Display settings. There is only 3 option.

I have seen this problem and question in various forms many times, and have never seen the correct answer given. So here is the answer. Please spread it around, since many people seem to have the problem:
VGA 15 pin cables often have only 14 active pins. Pin 9 is missing. (This missing pin is on the middle row of pins, one pin from the end.) This missing pin is a problem for flat screen TVs.
Pin 9 is required by most, if not all, plasma and lcd TV's to supply back to the computer graphics card information about the available resolution of the monitor. Pin 9 carries a 5 volt signal to the DDC (display data channel). New computer monitors (LCD or CRT) do not seem to need this pin, and work fine without it -- as a result the majority of VGA cables labeled as "15 pin" really only have 14 pins, and this is never explained or noted in the packaging or product specifications! The only way to tell if a "15 pin" VGA cable actually has all 15 pins is to look at the connector and count the pins. If the middle row has only 4 pins, then the critical pin 9 is missing.
From the posts I have seen -- and from my own experience with my 50" Pioneer PDP-5070HD plasma TV -- nearly all flat screen TV's DO NEED this pin to return information about the native screen resolution.
I have seen dozens of posts by people trying to set up their HTPC's to work with their big screen plasma, but not being able to set the resolution (usually 1360 x 768) on their video adapter card. Some people on the forums argue they had "no problem" while others cannot make it work. People blame the video card or video card drivers. No one seems to figure out the problem is a missing pin on the supposedly standard "15 pin VGA cable" many people are using!
I had the same problem with my ATI 9800 Pro graphics card using a 15 pin VGA cable with only 14 pins. When I changed to a full and true 15 pin cable, the ATI 9800 immediately sensed the native resolution of the plasma TV.
So the difference between a 15 pin and a 14 pin VGA cable is not "just one pin", as one sarcastic idiot answered to a previous post of this question. The absence of the pin 9 signal (5 volt to the DDC) means your your very expensive plasma or LCD TV cannot notify your computer graphics card about its supported resolution. Get a VGA cable with all 15 pins, and your problem may be resolved. But you will have to search to find one by visually examining the plug. Remember, all the VGA cables are labeled and sold as "15 pin VGA cable" even if they actually have only 14 pins. Check it out.
(BTW, there is a reason to leave the 5 volt signal off the cable when it is not needed. However, for LCD and Plasma TV's, it is needed.)

W530, W7-64: external monitor is dark except for mouse pointer

Hello,
I'm starting to experience this problem. Initially I had no problems with using an external monitor, but now I cannot use it. When I switch to the external monitor, the screen is dark, except for the mouse pointer which moves correctly.. Anyone know the cause of this problem?
Regards,
bostjanv

I have had same problems using NVIDA Q2000K when using Windows 8. Try configuring with NVIDA instructions for multiple displays as follows:
ThinkPad W530       NVIDIA Quadro K1000M or NVIDIA Quadro K2000M           - Computer's analog VGA connector           - Docking Station's analog VGA connector           - Computer's DisplayPort connector           - Docking Station's DVI connector(s) or DisplayPort connector(s)
      Intel HD Graphics Family           - (Computer's LCD)
DUAL ADAPTER CLONE
Dual Adapter Clone is a technology where display output from one display adapter is cloned to another display adapter. This feature is unique for NVIDIA Optimus Technology starting from second generation Optimus technology. The only difference between cross adapter clone and traditional clone is that the former involves two display adapters while the latter involves only one.
HOW TO CONFIGURE DUAL ADAPTER CLONE
Dual Adapter Clone is only supported and be configured in NVIDIA Control Panel. As an example, the procedure below describes the steps on how to configure the dual adapter clone. Remember that the dual adapter clone involves two different graphics devices, so the 'Display Topology' section above will give you an idea which combinations can support dual adapter clone, otherwise, it is considered as a traditional clone.
The procedure below assumes to use the LCD and DisplayPort monitor connected to the computer. 1. Attach a DisplayPort monitor to the computer. 2. Open the NVIDIA Control Panel, and on the left pane, select 'Setup multiple      displays' under 'Display' tree. 3. On the right panel, under 'Select the display you want to use', check both      LCD and DisplayPort monitor. 4. Under 'Verify your display configuration', right click on either the LCD or      DisplayPort display icon. 5. Select 'Duplicate with 1 (use 2 as source)' then click Apply.
Note: The Dual Adapter Clone can not be enabled by using the Windows display         control panel or the Intel's display control panel.
Windows 8 also disabled my NVIDA Q2000K and I had to restore it. I hope this was helpful.
Jack
Jack

Using a minidisplayport to hdmi adaptor to connect with plasma but get no signal on tv

i want to connect my new iMac late 2012 model to my Panasonic Plasma
I'm using a minidisplayport to hdmi adaptor to connect with a hdmi cable to my Panasonic plasma
Why doesn't this work ?

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Help,
I have a problem with connecting my Imac and Phillips LCD TV.
For two years everything was working as a violin and two weeks ago it stopped working : (
Computer and LCD are connected with an HDMI cable (over Mini Display port to DVI adapter with DVI-HDMI adapter on it)
The computer recognizes the TV in System Preferences-Display but there is no picture on TV but
in the corner of the TV a label "Unsupported video format."
When you connect the devices, the iMac's monitor goes blue but the TV does not have a picture.
On the web I found hundreds of people with similar and same problem but without a successful resolution.
What is the strangest thing when I connect a old macbook over the same cable only MiniDV port, everything works!
Stranger still is when I connect the Imac over the same cable and adapter to a LG LED monitor that has HDMI Input, again everything works!
HDMI cable is also correct because I've checked it out with the Blu-ray player on all three HDMI inputs on the TV.
Imac's OS is 10.6.4.
TV model PHILLIPS 42PFL5603D/12
Thanks in advance for any advice and hopefully solutions!

Computer to LCD TV

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