Connecting apple notebook to tv

can anyone help me
i want to connect my laptop to my tv
does anyone know what cables i need and how easy it is
please and thank you

Want to watch ESPN3 games via my late 2008 MacBook to large screen HDMI TV. Got a Mini DVI to HDMI Adapter then a HDMI cable to run to the HDMI input of the TV. Works fine on Video but IMO the 720p Output from the MacBook looks better than 1080i Output.
Question is how to run Audio from the MacBook to go with the Video since DVI Video carries no audio stream. Bought a Mini RCA to Regular RCA cable. Plugged the Mini RCA cable into the HeadPhone Jack of the MacBook and then to every single RCA Input on the back of the TV but no Audio to go with the ESPN3 video. Any idea's? Thanks.

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HOW TO CONNECT TO A FRIEND WHO IS USING APPLE NOTEBOOK FROM MY IMAC SUGGEST ME WAITING FOR A SOLUTION FROM APPLE TEAM SUPPORT

Hi,
Typing in all upper case is regarded and shouting here.
Presumably as you have posted in the OS X 10.7.x (Lion) area you are running this version of the OS on your iMac.
This will have iChat 6 on it.
This can use AIM, Jabber and Yahoo IDs within the app.
Apple IDS ending in @mac.com and iCloud issued @me.com and @icloud.com are also Valid AIM Screen Names.
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Facebook has an option to Enable "Chat" which will give you a Chat ID variant on your name there and this can be used in iChat (or Messages) as a Jabber ID.
The Yahoo Account will only do Text chats.
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How can i connect apple hd cinema display 30-inch DVI to my new notebook with HDMI port

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Can I use non-apple notebook to connect AirPort Extreme?

I
Can I use non-apple notebook to connect AirPort Extreme?

He might be trying to do so to promote his products or may be there was some misunderstanding.
Airport Extreme will work as a wireless router supporting upto 50 systems including Mac computers, PCs, iPad, iPhone, iPod touch, Apple TV and virtually all 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi wireless devices — all at the same time.
for reference http://store.apple.com/us/product/MD031LL/A/AirPort-Extreme

Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

How to connect apple tv 2 to pioneer pdp s35

How do I connect apple tv 2 to pioneer pdp.s35 tv? I connected to one of my pioneer receiver's hdmi ports but when I cycle through the inputs I can't find apple tv. Thanks.

Welcome to the Apple Community.
I don't have or indeed know anything about your receiver, but unless the Apple TV can see an active device and connect via HDMI it won't turn on. You will need to set your receiver to use the correct input and then turn on the Apple TV.

How to connect apple tv2 to receiver

Apple tv is connected to tv via hdmi - working perfectly. But i would like to connect apple tv to my receiver as well - for surround sound on movies and for streaming audio from the computer.
My receiver has 3 optical ports in addition to the DVD coax ( CD, CDR and TV) which one do i use to connect from apple tv - none seem to work.
Apple TV set to dolby output.
receiver digital in is turned on
No sound from the receiver
Help!

Welcome to the Apple Community.
You need to use one of the optical ports.
Are you sure they are optical ports.
Are you sure you are matching the input to the output correctly on the receiver.
Have you tried adjusting the audio out and Dolby digital settings on the Apple TV.

I use "hdmi to component converter" to connect apple tv with my old plasma tv by component cable. Sound is ok but the picture split 2screens left and right. Still can't fix it. Anyone can help or has any idea? should I try convert to av?

I use "hdmi to component converter" to connect apple tv with my old plasma tv by component cable. Sound is ok but the picture split 2screens left and right. Still can't fix it. Anyone can help or has any idea? should I try convert to av?

Your TV hasn't entered some odd picture in picture mode has it with two 'inputs' side by side?
AC

How to connect Apple TV when I have run out of HDMI Ports?

I have a Sony Bravia TV with 3 HDMI Ports - in those I have connected:
- Sony Home Theater Surround Sound
- Playstation
- Sky Digital TV HD Box
Is there a way to connect Apple TV without disconnecting any of the above? (and without buying a new TV with 4 HDMI ports!)

lkrupp is correct, the only soution is to add what's called an HDMI switch to your setup. The HDMI switch normally has 2, 4, 6, or 8 HDMI inputs and one output. The output goes to your display. You then select which input you want to choose.In your case, you can do one of two things:
Connect all your sources to the HDMI switch. You then select sources via the HDMI switch and you no longer need to change HDMI inputs on your TV.
Disconnect one of the HDMI sources you have (let's say it's the Playstation) and plug both the Playstation and the APPLE TV into the switch. In this setup you need to change the input on both the TV and the HDMI switcher.
The simplest setup in your case is to buy a 4 or 8 port HDMI switch and put all your devices on the switch. If you are looking for inexpensive HDMI switches, you need to look at Monoprice. The stuff is all manufactured overseas and can be hit or miss but it's the cheapest that you'll find. If you feel like you need some guidance and help, then try www.hdtvsupply.com. They have a good selection and great support.

How to connect Apple TV to DVD blu-ray home theatre

Hi guys, I am planning to buy Apple TV2 and I was wondering is there setup guide for connecting to HDTV and home theatre system. I currently have LG HDTV and LG DVD Blu-ray Home Theatre. They are connected with HDMI 1.3 cable and I had to get optical cable to get sound from TV to Home theatre.
How is Apple TV fits into that? I have 1 HDMI slot free on TV and 2 HDMI inputs on DVD system.
I was thinking just to connect Apple TV to DVD via HDMI? Would that put sound on home theatre system?
Thank you in advance.
ddrasko

You have read home theatre manual about playing sound from external device.
You doesn't need to connect home theatre to tv at all as you have get video from apple tv.
Connect video output from apple tv to tv(may carry sound along) and optical cable from apple tv to home theatre.
That will do. You can mute sound of tv(in case hdmi carry sound along) or using other function(on samsung ) and hear from home theatre sound from speakers.

How to connect Apple TV to a stereo?

What is the best way to connect Apple TV to a stereo with only analog audio input?

Welcome to the Apple Community.
DAC (Example Only - Not a recommendation or suggestion that this is suitable in your circumstances)

How to connect apple tv to NAD T748 AV Receiver

Hi All, Trying to connect apple tv to NAD T748 home theatre.
Any one achieved this?

Thanks, discovered the only way I could get it to work was to run an HDMI cable from my Apple TV to TV's HDMI 2. HDMI 1 then runs from TV to HDMI out on T748 AV Receiver
Could not find any reference to HDCP for NAD T748 or TV
TV = Samsung UA40C6200UMXRD

How to connect Apple TV (2g) HDMI to HDTV with only component video input.

Trying to connect Apple TV (2g) HDMI to HDTV with only component video input. Can I use a simple cable or do I need a converter box/plug? Is the HDMI signal coming from ATV encrypted or HDCP enabled?
The TV is HD, but only has a component input and not HDMI. Apple TV 2g only has HDMI output.

google component hdmi converter
but they are pretty expensive and may not work at all
and will not work with any DRM material as in movies you reant and maybe netflix and the sports thingy

How to connect Apple TV with AT&T Uverse

Need help pls. Not sure how to connect Apple TV2 to AT&T Uverse. I know I need to connect one cable to my wireless router, and another cable from the HDMI port to my TV. That part is clear. But my Uverse router is in an upstairs closet, and my TV is downstairs in the living room - too far apart to connect cables to both devices from my ATV2. Do I need to somehow put a bridge router next to my TV, so that I can connect my ATV2 to both my bridge router and to my TV? Thank you

Welcome to the Apple Community.
Assuming both devices are on the same network and that AirPlay is not turned off on the Apple TV, then simply tap on the screen when you are watching content you wish to stream to your Apple TV, then tap the airplay icon that appears in the control bar, choose the Apple TV from the menu that appears.
When displaying the content you wish to mirror on the iPad 2 (or better), iPad Mini, iPhone 4S (or better), double tap the home button (quickly) and swipe the bottom row of apps to the right to reveal the playback controls, tap the AirPlay icon and select your Apple TV from the list of available devices.

How to connect Apple TV to ipad2 with air play

Hi...how to connect Apple TV to ipad2 with AirPlay

Hi. Your Apple TV should be connected to the TV (I'm using HDMI cables) and connected to the internet via a wireless or ethernet connection.
The best way to test AirPlay is to play a movie trailer from the iTunes store. When you play a trailer you will see the AirPlay symbol at the bottom of the screen. Click on it and it will show your AirPlay devices - in your case the Apple TV. Select it an your video and sound will come out of your TV.
I hope this helps. Google the AirPlay symbol. I tried to paste it into this message with no success.

Connecting apple notebook to tv

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