Convergent HD connect box and FCP help

I am trying to capture HDV video using a HDV deck that goes firewire into a convergent design HD connect si box, i am then going out of that sdi into my aja card on my computer....to get deck control i am using the rs422 connector into the convergent box....I am trying to capture it Proess HQ and it seems to be working but every so often a message pops up and stops my capture but the tape is still playing and FCP says the tape had changed would like like to name it something new......it does it at random times and not on TC breaks....any idea of the setting i need to be using on FCP i made my own in the device control but not exactly sure what they should b......how ever if i take it in using the aja 10 bit not proress i have no problem.......any ideas?

when you ran the control app for the box did you select FCP? default is avid generic.
I would use Sony 422 as a default protocol, vitc and ltc, but that's just the way I think.
have you talked with convergent support?
http://www.convergent-design.com/Support.htm
possibly a switch setting re drop frame/nondrop frame?
you've gone over the switch settings on the SI box
http://www.convergent-design.com/hdmisipics/HDCSI_manual.pdf

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Unending connectivity problems -- and Desktop Help...

I'm wasting so much time on connectivity problems that it's positively wearying. Prior to the installation of BT Infinity here in April, I had a low quality broadband service because of the length of the line from the exchange: if I could get a download speed of 1.2Mbps and an upload of a quarter of that, I was doing well.
BT advised that thanks to fibre optic, my Internet should run much faster. So we had Infinity installed. I'm registered with Speedtest.net so am able to see my performance record.
The average download speed is now aroun d 6Mbps and the average upload, more than that at 7Mbps. How an upload speed can consistently be faster than a download escapes me.
But I'm not familiar with the ways of Internet connectivity and try as a I might, can't get my head around it.
This desktop computer runs Vista OS. Vista was **bleep** when it came out and is renowned for its botched handling of Internet connections. So I'm not blaming BT for the literally unending connectivity problems that are occurring now, with line drops, speeds slowing to a crawl, and no guarantee that any connection will last. But it would be good to actually use BT software to help fathom out what's going wrong here, and today's typical morning which looks like this:
1) Boot up computer. Automatic connection to hub via Netgear USB wireless adapter. Hub is on ground floor of this 3-storey property but signal strength from hub is excellent, as confirmed by inSSIDer monitoring, currently showing 54 with no other networks anywhere near that figure.
2) Perhaps 5 minutes after connection established, it's then lost. 'Local Only' is displayed. This is, apparently, a known Vista problem. But Microsoft has issued a fix for it. I know this, because it took 100 hours of ploughin g the Net to find out that MS had finally admitted to one more Vista screw-up. I've used the Microsoft router "fix it" before and it didn't work ("failed to process") so uninstalled it and have DL'd it again now and run it. This time it says it has fixed everything.
3) Computer is re-booted to make the fix effective. Computer connects to Internet. Speedtest.net check yet again confirms that upload speed is faster than download speed.
4) Connection dies. So much for Microsoft Fix It.
5) Windows diagnostics reports that it can re-set the IP profile (or something.) I click yes. The re-set goes through. Connectivity is restored. 10 minutes later, connectivity is lost. Just a red X in the tray. No connection of any kind, not even that daft 'Local Connection' only alert.
6) Reboot. Yet again. BT Desktop Help was installed here and ran OK when we were using our Netgear DSG34 router. But since the change to the BT Hub, the BT program has never run at all. So-oo. . . It has been uninstalled. And then re-DL'd and re-installed. And though the installation has been completed, clicking on 'launch' has failed to launch anything. But anyway. An hour ago, in one of the brief periods today when the Internet connection was holding up, I Revo-ed out the earlier install, DL'd BT desktop Help and re-installed it. . . and I'm still at the same stage as always, with a Firefox browser page that's open and completely blank and has been for the past 30 minutes. The URL is:
file:///C:/Program%20Files/BT%20Broadband%20Desktop%20Help/btbb/Start.html
Repeated page re-loading gets nowhere. Malwarebytes PRO is turned OFF to prevent any possibility of blocking and the antivirus is termporaily SUSPENDED. This PC runs on Windows standard firewall but even turning that OFF doesn't get the page to load. Copying the address into Internet Explorer in case there's a Firefox problem merely results in Firefox being opened and the same blank page running there.
7) After all that. . . Connection lost yet again and this time, Windows cannot connect at all. It reports that the "wireless network security key is not correct". I happen to know that it is, because this is maybe the 20th time it has reported this in the past 10 days and every time I have to key in the "correct" key all over again. . . at which point Windows still says it isn't correct and cannot repair.
Turning off the computer completely, unplugging from the wall, holding in the power switch for a full minute to clear the circuits, traipsing up and dowen three flights of stairs to turn off the hub, then wait, then turn the power back onm again. . . Ah, wot fun times I'm having here with my particular versioin of Infinity (as in, an infinity of connectivcity problems.)
Summary: I seem to be being simultaneously hit with one issue after another.
I'm bewildered as to why ever since Infinity was installed here, my upload speed is generally faster than my download speed. I'm not happy with endless Internet connection failures though am thinking that Vista is playing a large part here with its "wrong security key" and unending 'Local Only / Limited Connection' failures. I do miss my Netgear router and the ability to access a fantastic help menu and re-boot directly from the desktop without having to keep going up and down three flights of sdtairs to do so (I haven't been able to find out how toe access the BT Hub remotely.)
Above all though: I'm really tired of repeatedly trying to run freshly downloaded and installed BT Desktop Help software but getting no further than a blank page because the program has stalled.
If anyone has any advice / suggestions, other than to buy a carrier pigeon, that'd be much appreciated.
Thanks.

Thanks again to John and gg30340. Here's an update:
1) BT Desktop Help removed completely from this computer. The uninstaller itself mopped up everything, which surprised me. But anyway.
2) Bt Home Hub manager set up and working. Had to input serial number and create new password. All of this sounds fairly easy and would be if one had the device near the desk. But the idiots who built this property shoved the BT master socket inside the garage next to the door. Our two home computers are on the third floor. To ensure the wireless signal strength is OK, the Hub and Infinity module/device/whatever it's called are on a high shelf. It's a major job to even reach the darn things, never mind read the labels seeing as how the BT Infinity engineer was good enough to tidy up the cabling and make a very tight connection to the wall socket.
3) I had hoped to be able to back up the Hub's settings, seeing as the software provides for Advanced Settings / System / Backup. But not on mine (Hub 3.0). All that System allows is choosing which internet clock to define the accurate time. Everything else in System is just a pattern of short lines as if trying to indicate that there's some text there but it's invisible.This is now my second encounter with BT software which, for whatever reason, isn't functioning as it should on this PC.
4) Hub reset to factory fresh, according to BT guide.
5) Reset appears to have achieved nothing apart from requiring the password to be popped in again. After reset, it wasn't even possible to connect to the hub manager. Internet connectivity was eventually established for all of 30 seconds and then, gone.
6) Computer was shut down and then booted anew. Internet connectivity is still. . . dreadful. One minute everything's fine and then, literally,. the next minute a webpage won't load. Even opening the Hub Manager has taken three attempts, i.e., disconnecting from the Internet, re-connecting, failing, and trying twice more until success. Yet all the time these failures are occurring, the tray icon is showing a steady, unwavering green icon for Local and Internet access -- despite the fact, there manifestly isn't any.
7) Speedtest. net tests are actually showing upload and download 'trajectories' going slower and slower and finally halting at some point on the arc, then after a period of up to 30 seconds, suddenly becoming animated again. Speed test results with broadband speed checker UK and Think Broadband's checker are so at variance with one another, and with Speedtest, net, that it seems all three are using different technologies in pursuit of the same thing. Either way, upload speeds continue to be much, much faster than download speeds, a state of affairs I certainly have never encountered before.
8) Speedtest net tests taken in the past 10 minutes, with one test following on from its predecessor, begin at 8.24 down/8.88 up, followed by 5.24 down / 6.40 up, followed by a mind-numbingly lonnnnng 0.62 down / 8.70 up -- in other words, a continuous yo-yoin g of Internet connectivity to the pooint that it actually might as well not even be here (I've had to make five attempts just to get on to this forum. . .)
9) BT Speedtest will necessitate disconnection of everything downstairs and all boxes being lugged up here. This is actually going to require uncoililng tied-off cabling and hanging off a stepladder to do so -- though I surely can't be the only person in Britain who doesn't have a nice, handy BT master socket in their study or lounge. That said though: until we switched to Infinity, we *never* experienced these kinds of horrendous connectivity problems and never had need to unplug the Netgear router downstairs and bring it upstairs to connect directly to tjhe desktop PC so BT's own test could be run.
I'll just have to get to work dismantling stuff tomorrow. However, I have to say that after a factory re-set which has changed nothing at all, I'm beginning to think there's a problem with the BT line itself (hence why I'm happy to follow the advice here, though less than happy at the prospect of the messing about involved.)
Thanks, you two, for your patient help, and also for clarifying the situation re the three signal paths being shown on inSSIDer. At least I know that's usual now! And now, hopefully, when I press 'Post', I won't be faced with an endlessly spinning Firefox circle culminating in what may well be, or seem to be, the 57,938th time today of seeing "Page Not Found". . .

Aspect ratio issues with SD box and no help from Verizon

I just renewed my 2 year contract which included a free box but a billing screwup resulted in repeated charges for the box. A CS rep credited the account and said I had the wrong box and she would send out a new one.
i had a 7100 Motorola HD box. I have an older television set (that cannot control aspect ratio) and I have never had HD service but this was the box I was sent by Verizon as part of my contract. Why they felt it had to be changed I don't know, but ..... the box they sent was a 2500 SD box which does not give me an acceptable picture.
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I couldn't get an answer as to why the box I was sent by Verizon as part of my original contract that provided a perfectly acceptable image had to be replaced with a box that doesn't provide squat. I have had Verizon service for approximately 7 years with this same television and this is the first time I've been given a box that can't produce an acceptable image and a remote that can't resize. So why now?
This smells like a bait and switch, or an attempt to get customers to pay for an upgraded box for a service they don't want just to get an acceptable picture. I live in an urban area and there is plenty of older equipment in these homes. So are customers like myself just being told even though you pay a significant amount of money for a Triple Play you are only getting 2 parts of the service?
I find it hard to believe there isn't some way to make the box or the remote change the image size. Can anyone help?

why do so many topics go to private section? we need to see how it's responded to in case we have the same problem..
but yes, our 2500 sd box, basically the 4:3 standard non HD box broadcasts to fit a 4:3 TV.. now some channels will have the black bars on top and bottom to accommodate the 16:9 aspect ratio.. you'll notice this if you run the 2500 box on a flat screen.. if you have it in 16:9 ratio on a flat screen it looks stretched.. the only way to watch regularly is in 4:3 mode.. which basically has the image with bars on all sides.. or you can zoom it and lose a portion of the image.. but it's because the box thinks you're using a 4:3 sd tv so the boxes appear on top and bottom so it can still fit the wider image it's filmed in.. so with flat screens you need the HD box i guess.. unless there is something i'm missing but there isn't a setting that i can find to change how the box exports the image for a flat screen or 4:3. I know the HD boxes have an 'SD Override' option.. which i guess tells the box you're not using a 4:3 tv anymore.. but that option is not on the 2500 SD box.. believe me i looked.. but this is all in reverse for your issue anyhow as you're having trouble with the SD box on an SD TV... which yeah, if you run SD the quality of picture is not as good as the HD programming.. so please let us know what they say to do for you.

Check Box and Feedback help

Hi
I'm having a few problems with this checkbox quiz i'm
re-developing from old Java Applets.
I've managed to create the checkboxes dynamically, but need
to get the true/false answers out of the dataset and show feedback
in the dynamic textfield box.
This link has the fla attached
http://board.flashkit.com/board/showthread.php?t=695320
Can anyone help... would be much apreciated.
John

No-one help at all?

Check box and items help

if zero or one check box is checked then item (NO S)is shown
if more than one check box is checked then items will show (show S)
<cfparam name="variables.morethanone" default="0">
<cfset count.morethanone= 0>
<cfloop index="checkField"
list="#form.1#,#form.2#,#form.3#,#form.4#,#form.5#">
<cfif checkField EQ "on">
<cfset count.morethanone= count.morethanone + 1 >
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</cfloop>
<cfif count.morethanone GT 1>
<cfset variables.morethanone = "1">
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item<cfif variables.morethanone>s</cfif>
i wish to have the item show items:
in a page before submit.
when a ((no,0) or one ) checkbox is checked and submit then
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the code i have does not show the s on the initial page
(before submit)
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show: please click one of the following items
then the logic i have just explained above.
what do i do thanks.

I'm not exactly sure what you want to do, but here's the code
that shows "items" when more than 1 checkboxes are checked on the
previous form page; otherwise, it shows "item":
<html>
<head>
<title>Untitled</title>
</head>
<body>
Target Page:
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<cfparam name="Form.Checkbox_1" default="">
<cfparam name="Form.Checkbox_2" default="">
<cfparam name="Form.Checkbox_3" default="">
<cfparam name="Form.Checkbox_4" default="">
<cfparam name="Form.Checkbox_5" default="">
<cfset count = 0>
<cfloop index="checkField"
list="#Form.Checkbox_1#,#Form.Checkbox_2#,#Form.Checkbox_3#,#Form.Checkbox_4#,#Form.Check box_5#">
<cfif checkField EQ "on">
<cfset count = count + 1 >
</cfif>
<cfif count GT 1>
<cfbreak>
</cfif>
</cfloop>
item<cfif count GT 1>s</cfif>
</body>
</html>

My TV is mounted on a wall so I can't connect the Apple TV device. Is it possible to connect to an HD Cable Box and send signal to TV that way? Other problem is that Box only has one HDMI socket .. Help!

My TV is mounted on a wall so I can't connect the Apple TV device. Is it possible to connect to an HD Cable Box and send signal to TV that way? Other problem is that Box only has one HDMI socket so would also have to use a splitter. Tried Apple Support but couldn't offer a solution. I can't be the only person with this issue surely?
Help!

No, unless you are using a home theatre system already, your only option is to connect to the TV.

I will be using a HDMI cable to connect an Apple TV box and a Comcast cable TV box to my TV. My TV has only one HDMI port.

I will be using a HDMI cable to connect an Apple TV box and a Comcast cable TV box to my TV. My TV has only one HDMI port.
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When using a HDMI auto switch to connect two devices to a HDMI TV, the
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Do you know of any other solutions? Componets? Actual expierances?
Full text below.
Cable : HDMI switches expand the number of available HDMI ports on a high definition television allowing connection of cable boxes, Blu-ray players, and game consoles. A side benefit is that cable clutter is also eliminated by running a single HDMI cable to your HDTV from a switch and relocating the HDMI ports to a concealed location. The problem with most HDMI switches is that you have to either get up to push a button, or hunt for the remote control, to switch sources. The true mark of any great switching component is an ability to perform its function and remain transparent in its operation. This automatic HDMI switch is a plug-and-play away from offering everything you are looking for in an HDMI switch. Select a single output from up to three devices for signal delivery to your HDTV. Smart operation provides complete control for connect-and-forget operation. Powering on a device gives it output priority over the other devices. By powering down the device in use, output priority is returned to the last powered on device. Note: Auto switch function only works for components that do not output continuous voltage over HDMI port when turned off.
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http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hdmi+auto+splitter&rls=com.microsoft:en -us&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=1I7GGLF_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=1 0340892278237558532&sa=X&ei=fTPmTtOiHuXq0gGc3sHfBQ&ved=0CHsQ8wIwAA#
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Hi Erico,
I tried what you said again but without success. I even updated the driver so that that audio driver is the same as the graphics driver i.e.. NVIDIA but this has not helped either:
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Updated to ios6 on my ipod touch 4g when i try to turn it on it doesn't, it just comes up with the itunes symbol and the usb, so i plugged into laptop opened itunes and it says to restore back to ios5 i pressed restore and it cant connect to server? help?

updated to ios6 on my ipod touch 4g when i try to turn it on it doesn't, it just comes up with the itunes symbol and the usb, so i plugged into laptop opened itunes and it says to restore back to ios5 i pressed restore and it cant connect to server? help?

Maunally restore it. In order to do this:
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Connectivity and FCP

Up to this point in my FCP experience, I have used nothing but Log and Capture with my Canon NTSC ZR60 mini cassette camcorder which has worked great with FCP. I am on the verge of purchasing a new Canon HD camcorder and am worried about connectivity issues using Log and Transfer. The new Canon camcorder I am looking at says this about connectivity: "USB|HDMI". Will this work with Log and Transfer in FCP 7.0.3? In addition, the camcorder has 8 gb of Flash Memory. Not sure how that translates into video time? Is upgrading to 32 gb of Flash Memory worth the expense?

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Why are sent emails from mac mail going to out box and message saying cannot connect to ATT server?

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Hi all,
I really need some help as I feel I'm getting no where with BT help desk.
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Solved!
Go to Solution.

any sockets in use require a filter. your sockets should only have 2 wires conencted to terminals 2 & 5 and if the wire is conencted to terminal 3 that is the old bellwire and should be removed as known source of interference
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Changed router box - and can't re-connect time capsule ?

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Hi there, I am trying to connect to my server at work from home using a vpn connection. It connects fine and the time ticks along, but when i click go - connect to server, it comes up with connection failed. Please help!

Hi there, I am trying to connect to my server at work from home using a vpn connection. It connects fine and the time ticks along, but when i click go - connect to server, it comes up with connection failed. Please help!

... when i click go - connect to server, it comes up with connection failed.
If you're trying to connect to a Bonjour server on the remote network, that won't work over a layer 3 VPN. Use something like Hamachi or one of the SSH-tunnelling Bonjour proxy apps for that.

TS1538 my ipad can not continue to download ios 6.1.2 because of connection problem and it is stuck in connect to itunes image, i cant open it anymore..what should i do? help plz

my ipad can not continue to download ios 6.1.2 because of connection problem and it is stuck in connect to itunes image, i cant open it anymore..what should i do? help plz

Connect to iTunes on the computer you usually Sync with and “ Restore “...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414
If necessary Place the Device into Recovery mode...
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4097
You may need to try this More than Once...
Be sure to Follow ALL the Steps...
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Convergent HD connect box and FCP help

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