Convert LP records to ITune?

Does iMac have software to convert LP records to ITune?
Is this found in garage Band or ITunes?

Hi Corla,
Connect your turntable to your Mac and turn it on. Go to System Preferences and select the Sound pane. Then select Input. Can you see the turntable in the list of input devices? If you can't you will have to install the software that came with the turntable as this will include the drivers the system needs.
If you can see the turntable then select it and quit out of System Preferences.
You can do what you want to do in GarageBand but there will be some manual editing of the audio and a lot of cutting and pasting of individual audio regions. There is software that will automate the process to a degree. I use CD Spin Doctor from Roxio.
To capture your LP's in GarageBand, create a new project with one Real Instrument track. Make the input to that track the signal from the Turntable using the Input Source drop down menu in the Inspector.
Record enable the Instrument track and play something from an LP so that you can adjust the record volume to suit. When you are ready, hit record and play the first side of an LP. When it is finished use the audio waveform displayed on the track to identify the individual tracks and isolate them using the Split from the Edit menu. Now you will need to create new project and cut and paste each isolated track individually from the original project to the new project and send them one at a time to iTunes. Now do the other side of the LP.
It's a lot of work and you may be better to use the supplied software. Even the basic transfer software may make the task a little less arduous. Or have a look at CD Spin Doctor. It costs around £30.00 ($50.00). Have a look at what it can do here
http://www.roxio.co.uk/eng/products/spindoctor/overview.html.
I hope this helps.
Alastair.

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    Work Flow - Recording a vinyl LP to the Mac for iTunes
    The short version of what needs to be done is this:
    * Set up the hardware - find the cables needed to connect the turntable to the Mac.
    * Provide an RIAA EQualization curve - this can be done with hardware or software
    * Clean the vinyl LP
    * Set up the recording software - select input and output, designate where the file is to be saved and in what format (considering quality level desired and hard drive space available), enable "pass through" (so you can listen while recording), and set the recording level.
    * Record
    * Edit - define tracks, if necessary, clean pops and scratches, if possible
    * Import into iTunes - name tracks, change file format, if necessary to save hard drive space
    Here is the long version:
    *Hardware:
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    If your Mac does not have a "Line In" port, I highly recommend the Griffin iMic ($40 - http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/imic/). The iMic comes with a short RCA-minijack cable; you will probably want a 1/8th inch stereo extension cable which is long enough to reach between the turntable and the Mac.
    I also suggest a good set of headphones - especially if you are applying filters and effects. It will be difficult or impossible to tell what you are doing if you are monitoring the results with typical computer speakers. I use (and highly recommend) the Sennheiser HD-485s although there are many others you could choose from.
    * RIAA Equalization - As mentioned elsewhere in this thread, you will need to provide an RIAA equalization curve so your LPs will sound right when played back. Your stereo amplifier or pre-amp with a "Phono" input has that built in, so you are all set.
    If, however, you don't have an amp or pre-amp with "Phono" inputs, then you could connect the turntable's RCA jacks directly to the iMic and use the Final Vinyl software (included with the iMic) to provide the RIAA curve (Filters>Add>EQ> then check the button "Connected to a turntable"). I can't comment on the results from using Final Vinyl's for the RIAA, because I use a stereo amp.
    * Clean the vinyl LP:
    First, I use a brush with very fine nylon bristles and a weak solution of dishwashing detergent in tepid water (http://www.needledoctor.com/Online-Store/Nylon-Bristle-Brushes) to remove dirt and fingerprints. Gently work the bush with a concentric motion, following the groves, then, rinse under tepid tap water and blot dry on a clean tea towel.
    This will leave some lint, so clean again by using the Discwasher brush (http://www.needledoctor.com/Discwasher-D4-Kit?sc=2&category=108), held lightly, on the LP as it rotates on your turntable. After using up my Discwasher fluid, I started mixing my own: half distilled water and half isopropyl alcohol.
    I should mention, my goal was to clean the LP for one last playback for the recording, without consideration of what long-term effect my cleaning method might have on the LP.
    Don't forget to examine the needle on the turntable cartridge - it can collect crud which seriously degrades the playback quality. The Discwasher kit has a little brush for the needle, too - careful - it's very fragile.
    *Set up the Software:
    For general recording, including LPs, I recommend "Audio Hijack Pro" ($32 - http://www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijackpro/) I prefer Audio Hijack Pro to Final Vinyl and CD Spin Doctor, because I can use it to record from many more sources (including streaming audio from the internet), it has many more options for effects and file types, a better Help manual, and, in my experience, fewer crashes. However, Audio Hijack Pro does not offer an RIAA equalization curve, as does Final Vinyl.
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    Some file formats which are compressed - like MP3s - get re-compressed every time you Save. A little information is lost each time the file is compressed, so if you are doing a lot of editing and saving, the file can degrade. That's why I prefer to do any editing on AIFF files, which I change to high quality MP3s in iTunes only when I am done editing.
    - Refer to your software help files to learn how to set input and output, save preferences, and to enable pass through, if needed, so you can hear what you are recording.
    - Next, you will need to set the "level" to be as strong as possible without clipping. Clipping results in distortion when the signal is too strong. If the signal is too weak, the recording will be noisy because the junk will be louder relative to the desired audio. Audio Hijack Pro has "VU Meters" with clipping indicators, and you can set up a "Gain" control to increase or decrease the signal strength. You may need to visit the Mac's "Sound" Preference Pane>Input Tab, to change the signal strength at the system level.
    - Your recording software may offer a few - or many - filters and effects. Filters and effects are available as plugins, so you may be able to find even more as free downloads or for sale. Many filters and effects are going to be of interest only to sound engineers and only for rare special circumstances. Some are quite useful when cleaning up tape or microphone recordings, but I have not found any which are very effective on LP-type pops and scratches. You can waste a LOT of time playing around with these.
    My suggestion is to make your "master" raw recording using few or no effects, then go back and edit COPIES of the master, so if you mess it up, you can start over. With experience, you will learn what works - only then you should apply the filters as you record.
    * Record:
    If your recording software offers these features, here is something you may want to try when recording LPs. One is a feature to automatically detect the "silent" groove between tracks so the finished recording will consist of a separate file for each track. You may have to adjust some sensitivity settings to get this to work, and I found it to be somewhat fussy.
    Another useful feature is a Pause button, so you can turn over an LP without actually stopping and restarting the recording - and also without the sounds of picking up the needle from side A and setting it down on side B. The pause feature is especially nice when the LP is really one long recording, such as a symphony.
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    * Edit:
    If your finished recording lacks tracks, you can re-create them by using the "split" feature of your editing software - which may be the same as your recording software, or something different. I really like Fission for simple editing like splits, cuts and fades, and they claim it's "lossless" even when editing MP3s (http://rogueamoeba.com/fission/). It's particularly good for trimming off the "silent" grooves at the start and end of the LP where the pops are much more obtrusive. For applying filters and equalization, I stick with Audio Hijack.
    The Holy Grail for LP recordings is trying to eliminate pops and scratches. I can't offer too much encouragement. Nothing I've tried has been very effective in reducing pops and scratches, and everything I've tried which has helped, has also degraded the recording somewhat, usually dulling the sound a little.
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