Copnverting RAW files to TIFF / Tiff to Jpeg etc.

A) Is there a way to convert my RAW files into TIFF or Jpeg in Iphoto? (Right now I have to export them to Elements.)
B) Am I doing any harm to my Iphoto library by re-importing the files that I've converted using Elements?

Hi george1936,
You get a better answer in the iPhoto Forum.
This one is for discussing the Discussions Forums.
You may have missed the big notice at the top
Regards
Colin R.
Message was edited by: Colin Robinson
PS You might want to have a look at the Help file, specifically the Export command.

Similar Messages

  • Raw File conversion to Tiff or Jpeg - best workflow for multiple files in Photo Shop Elements 11

    Hello, I am pretty new to shooting in raw and Photoshop Elements (11).  I have one big problem. Once I open Elements up and load the Raw files from the SD card it shows them all on the left side in Camera Raw. I make my contrast and color adjustments if needed, but then my problem starts: I do not really want to make any further adjustments in Elements itself, but in order to save my Raw files either as Tiff or Jpeg it seems like I need to - through clicking on the "open image". Now it only opens up that one particular photo. I did not manage to go simply back to Camera Raw to grab the next one as the screen just disappears. However, this one by one process is of course not the preferred way. I know that there is batch processing, but am also not sure if my adjustments that I did in Camera Raw will carry over as I am actually never saving anything and would like to avoid saving it before all manually as .dng files as it would just be another extra step. I hope I could make clear where I have problems and what I would like to achieve and hope you can help me. Many thanks in advance.
    Philip

    Simply select and edit each picture thumbnail from the left panel without clicking 'Done' or 'Open'.
    When you have edited each individual picture, select all your thumbnails - click on the first one - shift click on the last one. They should be all highlighted.
    Then simply click 'Done'.
    Your edits are saved in sidecar xmp files.
    If the thumbnails are not yet automatically updated, select the files, right click and choose 'Update thumbnail'.
    No need to use the editor with 'Open as' if you don't want any further edit or jpeg/tiff/psd/png version.
    Edit:
    I am not sure I have understood your question.
    The above process lets you convert and edit a batch of raw files without opening the editor.
    If you want to get jpeg or tiff files from the already edited raw files, either use the 'process multiple files' of the editor or the 'export' feature from the Organizer.
    The common raw workflow in Elements consists in converting small batches as explained above to take advantage of applying common edits or individual differences. In some cases you want to open the editor, in others not.
    That's at the input time.
    When you want to output pictures, the selection of picture is different for each purpose. You'll include pictures edited in different batches, some still in raw format, others already converted in version sets to jpeg/tiff... For each output purpose, those selected pictures can be sent to the destination folder in the required format withoug opening the editor at that stage either using 'process multiple files' or 'export'.

  • Imported raw files open in PS as JPEG

    I want my raw files to remain raw files when I import them into Photoshop.  My raw files automatically open up into JPEG files.  How do I stop this from happening.
    Thank you

    I’m not very experienced with Adobe Camera RAW (and by the way there’s a Forum for that specifically), but what you describe sounds implausible to me.
    If one opens a RAW file with ACR one produces a psd file which one certainly can save as a jpg, but it is not »opened« as a jpg.
    Anyway one can set ACR to open images as Smart Objects, thus maintaining them as RAW-data in a psd file.
    But maybe I’m misunderstanding you.

  • I'm having trouble converting my RAW files to jpegs. Even though my RAW files are 90MB plus, the jpegs when converted are only around 6MB.  Am I doing something wrong?  Thanks,  A

    Dear Forum,
    I realise this isn’t necessarily your problem, buy I’m having trouble converting my RAW files to jpegs.
    Even though my RAW files are 90MB plus, the jpegs when converted are only around 6MB.
    Am I doing something wrong?
    Thanks,
    A

    HHi Barbara, thanks for replying to my post.
    No there's nothing wrong with the Jpegs, but I want to srart uploading images for sale in Alamy, but they say they must be a minimum of 17mb un compressed. Does that mean that at 6mb compressed from 90mb they'd be acceptable?
    thanks,
    alex

  • D300 RAW files converted to TIFF Anomally

    Ok....heres the thing! I recently spent 2 months in Argentina working on shootshorses.com. I used a Nikon D300 RAW (12mb) and downloaded everything (70 gig) to an 80 gig ipod. Aperture at this point could not read the nikon nef file so viewed them in nikon view nx, picked 50 or so I wanted, converted to 16 bit tiff on desktop and imported to Aperture. (now 77mb files)
    When upgrade for aperture 2 came out, installed and attached ipod and imported all the work. Started working on some of the same images in the new projects in order to uplaod more to web site. wanted to lift and stamp changes from tiff files and apply to freshly imported raw duplicate files then delete much larger tiff files. Point...the identical stamped changes make a completely different image.
    Checked the new raw file against the previous tiff file with no adjustments on either, on screen (apple 30 inch) and the tiff files blow the raw masters away for depth and sharpness. do not understand why as they are both the original Raw file from the ipod.....Question is, why is this? Suddenly the raw files really look digital and the tiff files have a depth that approach the work done on the kodak DCS pro.... and that is a bench mark!
    If anyone has any explanations it would be great. Many thanks
    A perplexed David Sinclair.

    AHHH... . amazed there is such a notable difference.... simple really. Only problem ,natural I suppose, Capture nx being same manufacturer, but makes me ask what else might be missed in the way of picture quality with Aperture. Many thanks for your answer

  • Why are my files exporting so small? (15 mb RAW files exporting to 2 mb JPEG)

    I'm trying to export RAW files into JPEG for a client and haven't experienced this issue before. I shot on large format RAW and original files are around 15 mb. When I export them in lightroom they end up around 2 mb. I know that I can still print large files from this but I'm worried that my (wedding) clients will see the file size and worry about enlarging prints, etc. Is there a way to export them so they are larger? I'm currently exporting at 100%. Help please!

    ayyo wrote:
    I'm trying to export RAW files into JPEG for a client and haven't experienced this issue before. I shot on large format RAW and original files are around 15 mb. When I export them in lightroom they end up around 2 mb. I know that I can still print large files from this but I'm worried that my (wedding) clients will see the file size and worry about enlarging prints, etc. Is there a way to export them so they are larger? I'm currently exporting at 100%. Help please!
    File size really doesn't provide useful information. And since JPG is compression, I see nothing unusual about a 15mb original RAW exported as 2mb JPG. If you are worried about file size, then you are not looking at the right numbers.
    You need to look at number of pixels in the original image, and number of pixels in the exported file. Anything else will lead you in the wrong direction.

  • What does a camera add to a Raw file to make a finished Jpeg version?

    I've used Lightroom 4 for a while now but have only ever used Jpegs, and mostly using just the basics panel and curves. I want to try developing Raw files now too.
    I was wondering, compared to a Raw file what extra steps does the camera add to make a Jpeg file of the same image, essential steps that you would consider doing yourself to a Raw file in Lightroom too?
    I'm aware of Noise reduction, but am a little unsure about the rest.
    Many thanks.

    Pbeck1 wrote:
    my original question I feel is still partly unanswered, and that is: For a beginner to Raw editing, is there some sliders that should always be checked &/or adjusted without fail (even if you decide that no adjustment is needed).
    Answer:
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    * make sure you set camera profile according to taste (and after you gain experience, you may want to roll your own).
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    * luminance noise reduction and sharpening should be set (initially) based on ISO range.
    Then adjust the basics. If toning can't be perfected with basics, supplement with tone curve, if still some imperfect areas, touch up with locals. Use HSL if need be, and so on and so forth.
    Fair enough?
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    * likewise luminance NR contrast has only a very subtle effect at highest ISOs, and can pretty-much be ignored unless you are really wringing out the detail.
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    What else you need to know?
    To summarize:
    ===========
    Lens corrections are a necessity in most cases, and you need to figure out how you like NR & Sharpening set by default. Camera profile determines the general look and feel of the photo and as such can be considered setting #1 (white balance is also setting #1 - yep: there are two #1s ;-}).
    Many photos can then be adjusted satisfactorily just using the basic sliders. What's needed after that, really depends on the photo, and you...
    Final thoughts are about sharpen masking. I used it a lot in the beginning, then noticed yucky artifacts / sparkling stuff scattered about..., and stopped using it entirely for years.  It's undesirable side-effects are most noticeable when sharpening detail is up (and/or sharpening amount). Moral of the story, if you keep sharpening detail (and/or sharpening amount) down, you can also use sharpen masking to keep from sharpening noise in "sky" and "skin", as another way to keep from needing so much lum. NR. Anyway, I'm using it again now, albeit very judiciously. Tip: press Alt key when adjusting sharpen mask slider.
    Put another way: sharpen masking masks (disables) sharpening in some places, but not others. Whether the transitions between masked regions and adjacent unmasked regions looks like hell or not depends on how much noise is being sharpened in the unmasked regions, since it's not being sharpened at all in the masked regions. Unfortunately, the situation can not be improved by increasing global noise reduction, since that makes the masked regions smoother too (as well as the unmasked regions).
    Bottom-line (imo): If low-noise is the priority over sharpening, then keep sharpening amount and detail low and use masking. If sharpening is a priority over over noise, then leave masking off and crank up sharpening til heart's content. If both sharpening and noise are priorities, there is no choice but to sharpen and/or noise reduce via locals, since using sharpen masking in conjunction with high sharpening (detail and/or amount) on a noisy (or even semi-noisy) photo, looks like cr@p (yes: that's just my opinion), regardless of global lum. NR setting.
    PS - Some people use sharpen masking with sharpening detail (and/or sharpening amount) up too and don't know what the heck I'm talking about - YMMV...
    Although I use zero sharpen masking by default, some people use light sharpen masking in default settings, and some people use heavy sharpen masking as default. Worth considering how much of it you tend to like...
    UPDATE:
    ~~~~~~~
    Settings you usually don't have to mess with, as a beginner: and why.
    * Camera calibration color sliders: white balance suffices.
    * Effects: most are "advanced" / optional (although you may want to explore post-crop vignette amount as your first foray).
    * Lens corrections: you need chromatic aberration at a minimum, and some profile-based correction by default is usually good, but the rest are "advanced".
    * Detail (covered above).
    * Split toning: "advanced".
    * HSL: "intermediate".
    * Tone Curve: consider using the parametric curve sliders, if you are beginner; point curve & channel curves are advanced; moving the parametric range-changing doo-hickeys: let's call that "advanced" too.
    * Locals and such can be considered not for begginers, but they will need to be used too at some point for optimal results. I mean, even beginners need to get the red-eye out sometimes, or kill dust spots... And you can get by without gradients or paint for a while, but not for long...
    Have fun,
    Rob

  • Jpeg, TIFF and Raw files in iphoto

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    imac g5 1gig   Mac OS X (10.4.5)   300 gig external HD
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    To sort your pictures by file types, create Smart Folders where Filename Contains .tif or .tiff, .jpg or jpeg, etc.
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  • File conversion - RAW or DNG to TIFF or JPEG

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  • How do I process raw .dng or .pef from pentax k20d into .tiff 's (or jpegs) in aperture 3?

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  • How can I save adjusted Raw files to Tiff without destruction of original Raw file in Elements 11?

    How can I make available  "Refine edge" when advised in (Elements 11 - Guided - Depth of field - Custom - Blur - that the "Command refine edge is not currently available" ??????

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  • Strange object formed when saving camera-RAW file as TIFF

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  • Is there any benefit to keep the RAW file after editing outside Lightroom creates a TIFF

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    Answering this question:
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  • How to get thumbnails to indicate whether JPEGs or Raw files?

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    Regards
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