Create a "Red-Eye Pen" - A Quick Tutorial by Mathias Vejerslev

Here´s how you can create your own special Tool in Photoshop - a red eye pen for taking out... Red eye!
Open a photo with red eyes you want to eliminate.
Make a new action set, call it MyTools or similar, then start recording a new action. Call it Red eye Pen.
Hold Alt key, and go to Channel Mixer Adjustment Layer from the bottom of Layer Palette.
Call the new adjustment layer Red eye Pen.
Set these parameters (only Red channel changes):
R: r:10 g:+50 b:+40
G: r:0 g:+100 b:0
B: r:0 g:0 b:+100
Click ok.
Set opacity of adjustment layer to ~80%.
Immediately hit following keystrokes:
'Ctrl-alt-I' to invert adjustment layer.
Now press 'b' for brush tool.
Hit 'd' for default colors.
Now choose a suiting brush preset size (opacity cant be recorded).
Hit Stop in action palette.
Thats it. When you need a red eye pen, just play this action, and brush'em'away. Use the same principle to make other tools.
Mod: If you wish you can use the Action Palette´s Insert Menu Item with View>Actual Pixels to record a last step that zooms in to 100%.
Mathias

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Shadow/Highlight workflow - A Quick Tutorial by Mathias Vejerslev

Here's a tip on using the Shadow / Highlight feature of Photoshop. I'll describe my typical established workflow using this tool, in order to help others using it.
Shadow / Highlight is in a special category of tools, based on light zones in your image. You can use it to increase or decrease contrast, or indeed both in one go.
First of all, I wouldnt recommend using Shadow / Highlight on an 8-bit image. You can do it, and it will give you results in a pinch, but the image quality will be much better if you start out with a 16-bit image in a large color space.
[continued, below...]

[...the dialogue continues...]
Mathias Vejerslev
- 2:34pm Apr 19, 06 PST
I should note that my settings for S / H are a bit more extreme than usual for this particular image. That's because its so dull to start with. With highlights closer to the right of the histogram, much less Amount for highlights suffice.
glen deman
- 6:49pm Apr 19, 06 PST
Thanks Mathias, I'll also give this a whirl, I'm not familiar with S/H at all at this point.
Lawrence Hudetz
- 12:37pm Apr 20, 06 PST
You must be reading my mind, Mathias, as I was just wondering if you might come up with some information on your take with S/H.
My problem is the reverse: Too much contrast, and I work with scanned images, so I am not using raw. So, I have set up default S/H thusly:
As you can see, it's for a greyscale, but for RGB I would be using the same settings, leaving contrast and color set to Adobe defaults. This is my starting point, and for many of my images, all that is necessary. Once in a while, I throttle back with the Fade, but very seldom. If it isn't working, I tweak the controls, usually starting with the radius.
I haven't tried your selection mask yet. looks like a splendid suggestion, (as usual!).
On certain images with backlit clouds, I frequently set the highlight radius well above 100.
The most disturbing effects I have noted is the contrast enhancement around abrupt changes in picture elements, like a mountain against a cloud. The edge of the mountain goes dark and the corresponding edge of the cloud goes light. In analog work, this is known as the Eberhard effect, and is the principle problem with Tech Pan. Trying S/H on those negs is trying indeed!
Mathias Vejerslev
- 2:59pm Apr 20, 06 PST
Hi Larry,
Try the luminosity mask. I think it will help the halos you see around contrasty subjects.
For scanning, you can still use the two develops method; Scan two versions into 16 bit with different exposure and merge them in Photoshop. Layer one version over the other, and use the luminosity mask from one layer as the layer mask on the other. The combination will be a bit flat, and will need some contrast. This is one situation where you can use S / H to add contrast.
There's nothing wrong with using S / H to decrease contrast, I think this is its primary intended use. But you have to live with the halos induced by a radius based contrast modifier. You dont have to live with halos using the combine method.
Using S / H with a luminosity mask is my own humble 'invention', but I see that it works well regarding controlling the halo effect. - to a limit. It also helps against accidentally lifing the shadows to much, exposing your use of S / H. Other masks could be used, I'd be very interested in other options or ideas people here might have.
Lawrence Hudetz
- 11:09pm Apr 20, 06 PST
Hi again Mathias,
You have a real insight here. I gave it a try and the Luminosity mask is a jewel. But using it as you describe is only the beginning.
First off, I decided to look at which to use, straight or inverted. That extends the application several fold, as now we have two ways to apply tools. And by tools, I mean far more than S/H.
The next place I tried it was the procedure you call contrast coating (I call it brightup.) here is another place to get into trouble, and the Luminosity mask again proved it's worth. But wait! There's more! Sharpening! Use the mask when sharpening an image and with the right polarity selected, one can really sharpen a fuzzy image. I was able to apply sharpening on the order of an Amount of 300 and a Radius of 3. That decisively sharpened an image which could not be well sharpened without a huge halo problem.
What is actually affected? To decide this, I used Curves to watch what areas were responding. Inverting showed a completely different outcome for the same adjustment.
Most fun I've had since....:)?
Mathias Vejerslev
- 6:44am Apr 21, 06 PST
"What is actually affected?"
You can create an alpha channel from the mask by hitting the Create Channel from selection icon in the channel palette. You can then not only see what areas are affected, but you can manipulate your alpha channel with curves to get just the selection you want. I like the straight highlight / midtone L mask, though.
[continued, below...]

Red eye correction creates a black eye

I am using iPhoto 6.0.6 (322) and when I use red eye reduction the command creates a blue-black blob of color that not only covers the red eye, it covers the eye socket and then some. I have used red eye reduction hundreds of times and this is something new. Any ideas out there?
Thanks
Ken

Ken,
There is a hidden feature to control the red-eye and retouch tools:
Type Caps lockControl9
Undo caps lock
Click on Retouch or the Red-Eye Removal tool.
The tab key will toggle between cursor types: a cross or a circle for Red-Eye removal tool, and between darken and lighten in the Retouch tool.
The \[ and \] keys decrease or increase the size accordingly.
NOTE: Using the { and } keys will will change the value next to the circle and that represents the degree of change or intensity that the Retouch tool imparts on each pass. To get a lighter pupil with the red-eye tool, Shift-Click inside the circular cursor.
The keystrokes are awkward at first, but I've found that with this method I get better red-eye correction with iPhoto than I do with Photoshop Elements 4.
Regards.

Red eye removal in PS Touch?

Is there a dedicated tool for red eye removal in Photoshop touch? I've looked around and not found anything so far. I keep looking because I won't believe that such a common tool is not found in such a well-known, used, and respected photo editing software. It has to be somewhere! Thanks in advance.

hazard1yard wrote:
Hi, probably a stupid question but how do I change the colour of the eye using the red eye tool?
Thanks
You don't!
Make a selection round the iris; create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, and play with the hue slider.
That's a quick and dirty method, there are plenty of other ways.

Red Eye Removal in CS3

Hi, probably a stupid question but how do I change the colour of the eye using the red eye tool?
Thanks

hazard1yard wrote:
Hi, probably a stupid question but how do I change the colour of the eye using the red eye tool?
Thanks
You don't!
Make a selection round the iris; create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, and play with the hue slider.
That's a quick and dirty method, there are plenty of other ways.

How do I remove red eye using ps Touch

How do I remove red eye using PS Touch on a Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 Tablet

In addition to Warunicorn's helpful forum post, I have assembled a quick tutorial on how to remove redeye quite quickly.
1. Below is an image with red eye
2. Select the paint with effects tool. Select the effect, and select Black and White.
3. Adjust the size of the brush to make it the size of the eye.
4. Zoom into the image, and start to remove the red eye.
5. Now you have quickly removed the red eye!
Please ask if you have any questions
Janelle

Ofoto - red eye

When I upload my pictures to ofoto after I made enhancements for red eye, the picture in apperture looks fine but the ofoto picture still has the red eye. Any help?

Of course.
Aperture is huge, complex, and powerful. Even the basics will require some time on your part to master.
The first seven chapters of the User Manual are a must-read. It is also available as a local copy on your computer from Aperture's Help menu.
You might also work your way through the "Exploring Aperture (PDF)" tutorial (also available from the Help menu).
Here is my super-concise "Well-trod Path", which I penned as an even easier way for users get started.
Once you commit an Image file to Aperture, you should use Aperture and only Aperture for management of the Image in Aperture and the file (now a Master) on your storage drive.

Red Eye Adjustment not saved (completely)

After upgrading my library, I tried editing some photos.
On one, I made red-eye adjustment that looked just fine--that is until I saved the edit. Once saved, the red-eye correction was different (and not as complete) as I had seen in the edit window. Some of the corrections were good, but one I could not get to save properly!
Anyone else having this problem? Or better yet, know of a workaround or fix?
++ Peter
iMac 15" G4 800MHz Mac OS X (10.4.4)

I'm having the exact same thing. I make red-eye adjustments, it says it's saving, but the red-eye tool changes are NOT saved. Here are some things I've tried doing before re-trying the red-eye tool, none of which have fixed the problem:
1. Making other edits in iPhoto and saving them first.
2. Making other edits in photoshop and saving them first.
3. Duplicating the image in iPhoto.
4. Reverting to original and starting over.
5. Exporting the photo and re-importing it.
6. Exporting the photo, editing it in Photoshop, and reimporting it.
7. Exporting the original TIFF, converting to PNG, and re-importing it.
8. Exporting the original TIFF, converting to JPEG, and re-importing it.
9. Exporting the TIFF, scaling it down slightly, and re-importing it.
10. Cropping it.
11. Exporting as TIFF, downsizing to 2,000 pixels wide, and re-importing it.
Here's what did work:
- Exporting it as a jpeg scaled down from 3004 pixels wide to 2000 pixels wide and re-importing it.
- Exporting as a TIFF, scaling down to 1000 pixels wide, and reimporting it.
NOTE that scaling it down to a 2000 pixel wide JPEG allows the edit to work, but scaling down to a 2000 pixel TIFF does NOT! Yet scaling it down further as a TIFF does work! I also tried scaling it down just slightly as a JPEG- from 3004 to 3000 pixels, which did NOT work.
I have no idea what's going on, but it's sure annoying. The red eye tool makes perfect adjustments, and then anytime I leave that image and go back to it, the changes are not there, despite iPhoto saying "saving changes."
I'd be glad to send a test image this happens to to Apple, if anyone wants it, because this is definitely a bug, and an annoying one. It doesn't happen with most images, so if Apple doesn't happen to have an image around that this happens to, they won't be able to re-create the bug for testing.
G5 Dual 2 Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.7)
G5 Dual 2 Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.7)
G5 Dual 2 Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.7) iPhoto 6.0.4
G5 Dual 2 Ghz Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Red Eye reduction not working

Iphoto 11
Red eye reduction does not work, auto is not selectable and circling eye and clikcingh does do anything.
I have trashed the plist file, repaired permissions and rebuilt the iphoto database. Nothing fixed the problem.
ANy other ideas I can try ?
all software updates applied , 10.7.3

As a Test:
Hold down the option (or alt) key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Create Library'
Import a few pics into this new, blank library. Is the Problem repeated there?

In iphoto 6.06 I make the red eye changes, it appears to have worked, but when I open the pic again the red eye is back. Advice?

In iphoto 6.06 I make the red eye changes, it appears to have worked, but when I open the pic again the red eye is back.Advice?

As a Test:
Hold down the option (or alt) key and launch iPhoto. From the resulting menu select 'Create Library'
Import a few pics into this new, blank library. Is the Problem repeated there?

Red Eye removal tool bug

Hi everybody,
I have a big problem using the red eye removal tool:
When trying to select the area around the eye to correct, LR randomly creates a selection rectangle of a different size and at a different location.
Does anyone have the same problem?
Example:
+ I activate the red eye removal tool
+ I drag the cursor to create a selection around the red eye to correct, taking care to have the center of the rectangle more or less in the red area of the eye
+ Release the mouse button
+ the selection rectangle disappears for a split second and appears again at a different location, for example around the eye brow or somewhere under the eye in a 20-30 times smaller size than what I selected.
Is this a failed attempt of artificial intelligence to properly recognize the area to correct or simply a bug?
BTW. the file in question is a JPG, with 2 people, red eye correction worked fine on 3 of the eyes (selection rectangle stayed where I created it) and fails on every attempt on the fourth (LR restarted and so on).

The red eye tool works by selecting the whole eye not just the pupil. If it still does not work try lightening or darkening the image to gaiain some more colour. If that does not work you can clone form one of the eyes that has worked.
Hope this helps you out.........

I get Black Eye instead of removing the RED EYE.

The old "red eye" system was sooo simple & easy to use. I am probably doing something stupid. On auto it seems to do nothing. Manual makes the eyes black, bad enough BUT if the spot is to big I get a big black eye. It seems the system is designed to cover up the red with black instead of removing the RED. Can this be true. I hope not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Warren

Warren:
No, you're not doing anything wrong. There are types of redeye that iPhoto just doesn't handle well at all. When there's a lot of yellow or orange in the color it just doesn't work as intended. The manual way also just puts a black disk over the eye.
Try using the redeye tool in manual and then apply the Retouch tool, sized to the black circle, to the the black area with one click. That can soften the effect a bit.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Red eye problems

Hi I'm new to this forum and an absolute beginner so please bear with me.
I would like to ask if anybody has a solution to the following problem.
I am working with Adobe Premier Elements 9 on a 2010 iMac running Mac OSX 10.6.8.
I always have a problem with the eyes of my Siamese cats. They have beautiful blue eyes with the usual black iris. Under flash photography they turn completely pink. Not red but pink. I have tried correcting this using the red eye reducter but it really looks terrible. Giving just a black blob on the eye, making it look dead. In one case the black dot even refused to stay on the eye and instead jumped to my wifes red finger nail. She is holding the cat.
Any ideas gratefully received and will be tried.
Thanks in advance.
John.

John,
You are correct in that feline (and canine) eyes show up differently on film (or digital), than do human/primate eyes.
There was a tutorial, or at least a long discussion on the Photoshop forum, from some years ago, on how best to "recreate" the feline eyes, but I cannot find the one that I recall (my memory is just getting too cloudy, sort of like the eyes on my older Bulldog... ). I looked over the tutorials on Dr. Brown's Web site, and did not see what I was looking for, but it might be tucked away, or perhaps in an archive. Dr. Brown does so many great tutorials, and those often change a bit, as Photoshop evolves (new Tools, and new features), that one might have to dig more deeply.
I would also post the question to the Photoshop Forum, and just not mention that you have Photoshop Elements, as some of the younger folk there (with better memories, than mine), will likely furnish you with a link, and tips (that can be easily translated to PSE). If you mention PSE in the post, too many will likely just recommend that you post to that forum, without considering the problem fully. I know that the tutorial/discussion was in the Photoshop Forum, but could not locate it.
Good luck,
Hunt

Red Eye Woes

The red eye in iPhoto has does some strange things for me. It always had an issue where sometimes (seemingly randomly) it would apply redeye to an ENTIRE photo (red shirts, lips, face and all). This is obviously a useless feature and it takes a good 30 seconds to apply the effect, then another few seconds to undo it. Then the red eye tool works as advertised (click on the red area).
I still have that issue, but now I am having another problem additionally. I like to zoom in on a photo when I do the red eye reduction so I can see where I'm clicking. When I did this, the image would be blurry for a second then it would go back to the proper resolution a after a half second or so. Now however, when I zoom in the image stays burry. Not because the image is blurry, iPhoto just isn't recalibrating the image. The only thing that seems to solve this usse is if I use the enhance tool. The image goes back in focus.
Needless to say, all these issues make reducing red eye a chore and a several hour long one at that.
Any ideas about what is causing this. The new issue I mention did start after using a new camera (went from a kodak to a panisonic). I wouldn't think that could be the problem but you never know.
I suppose the best solution would be to plunk down the $80 for an upgrade. I wish I could spend $20 just for an iPhoto upgrade.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If you find that the red eye blotched out more than just the red in the eye the photo in general may have more red in it than others. One possible way around it is to use the Temperature adjust slider to temporarily make the image cooler in appearance, use the red eye tool and then reset the temperature back to its original setting. That can reduce the overflow of the red eye tool.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Has red eye reduction improved in iPhoto 8.0

Is red eye reduction any better in iPhoto '08 than it was in previous versions?
I'm currently using iPhoto 6, and when I use red eye reduction it often makes a big gray splotch over the whole eye, including the eyelids! It's just very inaccurate and make the pictures look almost worse than they did with the red eye.
Is iPhoto '08 any better at this, or should I turn to another tool like Photoshop Elements? Is there any freeware that would do it?

The only freeware that I know of that might do the job as well as Photoshop or Photoshop Elements is Gimp. It's an open source application that is much like Photoshop but requires installing Apple's Xcode 11 (which is also free). I've not used it but it's touted as being much like Photoshop.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Create a "Red-Eye Pen" - A Quick Tutorial by Mathias Vejerslev

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