DVD Mastering to DLT in CS6?

I ran into a very interesting problem today with the Adobe Production Premium CS6 upgrade from CS5.5 I installed last week!!
Each month we do a DVD video magazine and I usually author to DVD using Encore and then write a DPP image to DLT tape for the replicator. However this time Encore did not give me a "DVD Master" option in the drop down list. Selecting "System Info" from the "Help" menu showed that it detected the Compaq DLT4000 drive that is connected to my system, but there was no option to write a DVD master to the tape drive. This all worked correctly under CS5.5 previous to this (yes, I run Encore with admin privileges so that it can see the tape drive).
So I called Adobe and they told me that even though I had just upgraded to CS6 from CS5.5 that I would have to pay for tech support (it was done as ESD thru one of my regular video vendors).
So what's the deal? Doesn't Encore CS6 support writing DVD Masters to DLT tape? And don't I get at least the normal 90 days of support from Adobe as a end-user, though the only way to upgrade to CS6 was via ESD?
Thanks,
James

Hi! Thanks for the reply and the show of solidarity on this issue. For me, the DLT tape issue affects my deliverables. The companies I work for archive master tape copies of all the DVDs I author, so uploading or even a flash drive will not work (not archivable)!
In the past we've tried DVD-R media for masters but they did not work out, there are too many read errors and it just gets worse as the discs get older. I have no other option with these customers, DLT tapes are what they require me to deliver.
I've recently switched over to using DLT IV tapes. Most replication facilities use DLT4000 or better DLT drives and are happy to use DLT IV tapes written in 20/40 mode. DLT tapes are rated for over 500,000 passes (which translates to ~1000 full tape read/write cycles), so I use recertified tapes if that's the only thing I can get my hands on. Even a moderately used DLT retains it's archival properties over the specified life of the tape, and recertification ensures that any weak parts of the tape are mapped out of use (which, BTW, can be a problem on new tapes, parts of the magnetic media can fail after being written for the first time, stressing the error correction system of DLT sometimes to the point of failure, so you want to certify new tapes anyways to prevent this).
As I've mentioned before, you can write an ISO file and then use an older version of Encore to master it to DLT. Problem is this only works on single layer DVDs and not for dual-layer projects (or so my testing has revealed). I really need for Adobe to re-enable the "DVD Master" option since Encore is already able to see the DLT drive when it's been turned on and DLT support is already there in the software.
James

Similar Messages

Is it possible to burn a SD DVD correctly from an Encore CS6 Blu-ray project and content?

Hi all,
I shot and edited AVCHD 1080i30 (60i) square pixel video from a Sony NXCAM HXR-NX5U camcorder in Premiere CS6. I then exported the 1920x1080 edited mpeg2 blu-ray m2v file for import into Encore Cs6. Burning a blu-ray disc in Encore CS6 from this mpeg2 bluray m2v file is no problem and look great even with the default settings.
However, I also want to burn a standard DVD using the same HD Encore CS6 project without having to go back to Premiere CS6 and output a 710x480 mpeg-dvd file. I thought i could simply select the dvd format under the build tab in Encore thinking Encore would handle all the necessary conversions to burn a 720x480 DVD but the menus look jaggy and the video does not play smoothly.
Is it possible to burn a standard DVD correctly from an Encore CS6 HD project and content, or is it better to have Premiere CS6 output a 720x480 mpeg-dvd file and create a new standard 720x480 dvd Encore project instead?
Acording to Encore Help, it says "You can build the same project to DVD and Blu‑ray formats no matter which format you select in the New Project or Project Settings dialog box. Encore makes the appropriate adjustments to transcode the elements to the correct format.", but i'm not convinced Encore is doing things correctly.
Thanks.

Jim,
I tried a variation on your suggestion.
I exported a new m2v file using the mpeg-dvd from Premiere CS6 as you suggested with "Use Maximum Render Quality" checked to get better scaling from HD to SD. I imported it into my Blu-ray EncoreCS6 project by using the "Replace Asset" option and changed the "Project Settings" authoring Mode to "DVD" leaving the HD menu's "Aspect Ratio" at 16:9. I then built the disc using the "Build" tab DVD format and output settings.
It worked!
The jaggies are gone (except for some motion jaggies) and the DVD plays well.
I suppose I could have done something similar within Encore but I'll test that some other time.

Formating a DVD 9 to DLT

Hey all,
I have a client who wants me to ship his DVD 9 onto DLT but the thing is that he want me to ship separte DLT for each layer of the DVD 9.
Is that possble?

Make sure you label the tapes Layer0 & Layer1 not Layer1 & Layer2.
If there is no valid marker for the layer break you can add chapter markers to a track and uncheck the chapter option in the property inspector. This (Cell) marker can be used for the layer break marker but will not impact your chapter to chapter navigation. When you build you can see the available markers in the Format window. You need to re-Build to see new makers eachtime.
You'll need a SCSI card (Atto) and a DLT drive (4000-8000 probably but 2000 works also). TypeIII or TypeIV tapes. You may want to look at DVDAfterEdit ME for writing DLTs if you are going to be doing it a lot...
Good luck,
-Jake

VHS - DVD Recorder - PC - Premiere Pro CS6: Workflow Questions

Hello,
I hope I have this posted in the correct place. I am seeking advice and suggestions for VHS tape to digital transfers. Here is my current workflow:
VHS tape is played back on a Panasonic PV-D4744S VCR and is recorded directly (via composite A/V cable) to a Panasonic DMR-ES40V DVD recorder and onto a DVD-R, -RW, or +RW.
The disc is then copied into a Windows 7 folder with all of the contents of its VIDEO_TS folder intact; this folder is saved on several external hard drives for safe keeping.
I then open and import a copy of the .vob files into Premiere Pro CS6, where I minimally scale the video to eliminate the distortions (“VHS tearing”) on the sides and bottom of the VHS source video. The result is a very clear video which fits perfectly in a 4:3 project window on my 16:9 HD computer screen with minimal pillarboxing.
It is at the stage of export where I am stuck.
The final DVDs are going to be viewed on a 16:9 widescreen TV, as well as on an iMac computer. I’ve read all much about interlaced scanning (VHS, Laserdisc, TV) and progressive scanning (computer, LCD TVs), but I’m still not sure if I can make a DVD which will look proper on both TVs and computers. In addition to the scaling, I am using Premiere to add chapter makers and poster frames to the video, which I wish to then export to either Encore CS6 or NeroVision – I love Nero’s animated 2D and 3D menu selections. What export settings should I use in Premiere which are closest to the original, imported .vob files? I’ve exported some test videos in MPEG2-DVD format to folders, but they are huge compared to the original DVDs made on the standalone recorder, i.e., 12.8GB on Premiere export compared to the 4.7GB import.
Are there settings to make the Premiere export as close to the original DVD import of 4.7GB without sacrificing quality? Should I simply import the sequence into Encore as a timeline and let it perform the heavy lifting of automatically compressing the files to fit on a 4.7GB DVD? NeroVision seems to not accept the MPEG2-DVD files; it “sees” only the .m2v video files and not the .wav audio files.
In a nutshell:
I want to take a raw DVD-R (or -RW, +RW) recorded on a standalone and copy to hard drive, add chapter markers and minimal scaling in Premiere Pro CS6, then export and burn a DVD that will look good on both a 16:9 TV and computer screen.
I'm trying to get this project finished for a soon upcoming family get together. Any suggestions, tips, and general advice would be greatly appreciated.
Eric

Hi Eric,
The issue I would have with the workflow is that DVD is heavily compressed for delivery - not meant for re-compressing again. You're re-compressing a file that's already been compressed as small as can be. Most DVD recorders have different quality settings, like 1 hour, 2 hours, 4 hours. Use the 1 hour mode on the DVD recorder to get the "best" quality source if you must re-edit the stuff. The typical workflow would be to have some sort of capture device on the computer that records a larger, less compressed file to begin with.
As for export from Adobe using Media Encoder, choose "MPEG-2 DVD" of course, and select "NTSC DV" for the preset. Under the VIDEO tab, you'll need to adjust the encoding bitrate according to the video length. A good rule of thumb is to use 560/minutes=bitrate, and I will round down a touch for safety margin. This assumes Dolby Digital audio on the DVD (AME exports .wav audio and Encore converts to Dolby). Note that most folks don't go over 7 or 8, for best compatibility (the max limit is a bit higher, but quality of VHS source is not going to get any better anyway at higher rates, GIGO).
Regarding audio for the DVD, could be that Nero expects ONE file with audio and video. In AME, look under MULTIPLEXING and change from NONE to DVD, this will combine them. Then under AUDIO, choose DOLBY or maybe MPEG will work for you. Use a 192k bitrate for audio if going that route.
Note sure what you meant about the 16:9 screen - would recommend against putting the 4:3 source material into a 16:9 sequence in Premiere in you are, this will do more harm than good. Stay with 4:3 throughout, including the DVD creation - the DVD player and TV ought to know what to do with it. You're actually REDUCING the resolution if you use a 16:9 workflow. Note that if you encode a 16:9 DVD using 4:3 material in the 16:9 frame, and then play that DVD on a 4:3 TV, bad news - it gets letterboxed AND pillarboxed and you end up with a small video surround by black on all sides. Not cool.
I'd stick with interlaced - if you deinterlace the footage at any point, you are essentially throwing away HALF the resolution, which is weak to start with for SD. Most software players will have Preferences settings to let you tweak the playback/deinterlacing at that point, and TVs will handle it fine.
PS - if you use Encore, then just export the .m2v and .wav files using Media Encoder, import both to Encore, and Encore then does NOT recompress the video any further (as long as it fits), only the audio gets the Dolby conversion. Do NOT use Multiplexed files in Encore.
Hope this is all helpful
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Computer freezes when mastering to DLT

Hi,
I have an old style G5 with DVD Studio Pro 4.1.2 and an ATTO Express PCI UL5D and a Quantum DLT 4000 drive.
It doesnt work at all. When I attempt doing Format and Build it asks me to insert a tape, then is says waiting for tape to be ready and then it totaly freezes and I need to force restart.
Anyone had similar problems? I looked around on the net and cant find a solution anywhere.
Thanks
Nicolae

I have no experience with DLT's but offer the following hardware suggestions.
Run System Profiler to verify that the tape drive is identified. It should be listed
Pull and reset the PCI card (assuming this is how the DLT is connected) to rule out the card not seating properly.
Can you get a substitute cable to rule out the cable not being up to snuff?
I don't think there should be any software out there but there might be a plist file for the device? if so ditch this.
Finally ditch DVDSP plist file as well. Then open DVDSP and create a new project. Review the preference pane to see if the DLT is identified.

Need some URGENT help with 3 DVD mastering issues PLEASE! :

Hi there,
Firstly, I am running DVD SP 3.0.2 on Mac OS 10.4.7 on a G5 Dual 2 GHz 3Gb Ram plenty of HD space...
I am creating a DVD with: An intro sequence, a main menu, 4 sub menus, and 4 sections with around 12 chapters each.
I am having some big problems, and a pretty stuck. I will lest them separately below, numbered. If you are able to help, please refer clearly to which number you are helping with. Any help is MUCH appreciated! Many thanks!!
1. Each of the 5 menus (1 main, 4 sub) have a background video, and a separate audio track. I added the background videos by simply dragging them to the assests panel, then from there onto the menu editor window. They are created in FCP and are properly encoded. However, when I click the motion button, or use the simulator, the videos do not show up. The music plays, but all i see is plain black.
What is going on?!?!?!
2. I am really struggling with rollover buttons. I have custom created buttons, and I wand them to have a soft red glow around them when hovered over. HOW ON EARTH DO I ACTUALLY DO THIS??
The buttons are in photoshop so can be exported with/without background/glow in any format.
3. Is it possible, once I have got the above rollover working, to have an image to the right hand side of my buttons which changes with the the button rollover. i.e. hover over button 1, see image 1. hover over button 2, image changes to image 2.
PLEASE PLEASE give any help you can, I have a deadline coming up and am quite stumped. Thanks again!!

I am still having problems regarding issue Number 1. PLEASE ANYONE HELP?!
Sorry, I'm not sure about the motion menus. I avoid those whenever possible. But you might click on the menu in the storyline tab (whatever it's called -- the hierarchical view with the disc, tracks, slideshows, etc.) and look at the properties and see if there's anything you have to enable specifically for motion. And be sure the motion button is on on the main display/preview area, but it sounds like you already know how that works.
For your information, here is a screen grab of the menu I am trying to create:
http://www.redhavoc.co.uk/stuff/menu.jpg
I think it is obvious that when a button is hovered over, I want it to glow red, and the image to the right will change to match the respective button.
IS THIS GOING TO BE POSSIBLE????
Yes.
First, your menus have to be layered menus. Unfortunately, there's no way to convert non-layered menus to layered menus, so if you already have non-layered, you'll have to just delete them and create new layered menus. The button (and menu item) to create a layered menu should be right by the normal new-menu item.
Next, the graphical work is all in Photoshop.
Side tip: You may already know this, but I found it's best to use 640x480 for the Photoshop document. When I do text and leave it as a text object in the Photoshop file, it resizes poorly in DVDSP. So this ends up being another 720x480 vs. 640x480 square/rectangular pixel conversion thing. DVDSP plays in the 640x480 world, at least as far as the designer can see. So I keep my images at 640x480, and it doesn't have to resize, and everything looks right.
Moving on... Set up your basic background, the part that won't change (or will have other things covering it, like for your square image).
Then put in all the buttons and images you'll be using, each part in a separate layer. This could have fifteen buttons (you have five buttons, and there can be three versions for each -- inactive, selected, and activated versions) and five or six square images (you said one for each button, and you might want a blank default if, say, you want to add a "back" button on the menu and want some blank or default image for the square when they're on the "back" button).
Sometimes people don't bother with a separate "active" button state, but you usually want some visual feedback that they clicked the button. Also, I usually just build the default (unselected) button into the background; that's less hassle later on, and it will just draw the selected or activated buttons over that when the user is on that button.
Line up all your buttons and images. All the square images lined up perfectly on top of each other, all the buttons in the right places (so you'll have three buttons stacked on top of each other in each spot). Give each layer a short but quickly recognizable name, and line them up in a consistent order. (button1-default, button1-selected, button1-active, button1-squarepicture, then button2-default, ... etc.) Photoshop and DVDSP don't care, but it makes it easier for you later.
Note that earlier versions of DVDSP won't show Photoshop layer effects. (They handle layers, just not the effects, like inner glow, outer bezel, etc.) I don't remember when they changed this, but I think it was version 4.something. So if you're using that method to make your buttons glow, you may have to flatten each selected or active button layer, and you may even need to create a dummy blank layer underneath it first to give it something to flatten onto.
Save the file as a standard Photoshop file (.psd). Drag the file onto your DVDSP layered menu and set it as the background.
Now, in DVDSP, create all your buttons. Just drag boxes over/around the button pictures you have. Feel free to make them extra-big; users won't see the actual area you've selected, and bigger areas makes it easier for people to hit them if they're using a mouse on a computer to watch the DVD. You can point the buttons to their targets now if you want, and set the end jumps on the tracks if you want. (I tend to set the end jumps on the tracks so they automatically select the button for the next track.)
Now's the fun part, since it will actually hook everything up and should be easy if your naming layer order were consistent. Click on the layered menu (in that hierarchical view) and look at the properties window. (Sorry I can't remember the technical names for all these windows; I'm doing this all from memory. So feel free to ask more questions if you can't find what I'm talking about.) One of the properties tabs should have a grid of checkboxes with a list of your layers. Make sure the background is checked for all of the states. Then check the layers you want to show for each button state, as well as the corresponding square image to show for each.
Again, I'm doing this from memory, and I can't remember exactly how things are listed in that grid. But I remember it keeps your layers in the same order you put them in the Photoshop file and shows you those names, so it should make it easy to go down the list and check the right boxes.
And another side tip: You can update the Photoshop file, but once you've put it in DVDSP, if you change the layer order, it will screw up the check boxes you checked. It always shows you the layer names correctly, but it keeps the checkboxes in DVDSP simply assigned to the layer number, so the fifth layer will keep the same checkboxes even if you juggle them so some other layer is now the fifth layer. So if you do juggle the layers in Photoshop, go back and fix the checkbox list in DVDSP.
I put a sample Photoshop file based on yours in
http://dan.black.org/layered-menu-sample.psd
It's quick and dirty, but shows the layer layout, and you should be able to drop it on DVDSP to play with. (I also won't leave it there forever, maybe a few weeks, so anybody reading this in a month or more probably will get a 404 for that url.)
Again, doing this from memory, so feel free to ask if anything doesn't work or doesn't make sense.
G4/dual867 Mac OS X (10.4.5) 2GB/0.8TB

Burn Speed for DVD mastering - fast or slow

Please help! I am getting conflicting advice regarding the best speed to burn a DVD Video (in DVDSP, iDVD, Disk Utility etc) that will be used as a duplication master. I have read online that you should avoid slowing down the burn too much (I think because the disc dyes etc are 'optimised' for faster speeds) and that you will run into problems if you burn an 8x disc at 1 or 2x. However, a technician assures me that you should slow the burn right down and that professional duplicators and production houses never burn a DVD at its rated speed! Who is correct? Any help or links appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ian
I have read online that you should avoid slowing down the burn too much (I think because the disc dyes etc are 'optimised' for faster speeds) and that you will run into problems if you burn an 8x disc at 1 or 2x.
The general advice around here is burning at slow speeds to avoid playback problems. DVDSP will allways burn at max speed and that's one of the reasons for NOT using that burning workflow. I allways create a disc image of my project and burn it with Toast and/or Disk Utility, where you can select the burn speed.
After all, you can ask to your duplicator what they prefer.
Hope that helps !
Alberto

Using a commercial DVD mastering service....

Hello,
I was unsure about where this topic should go, but this seems most reasonable, but sorrry if it isn't. I am working on a project that is going to be sent out for duplication/replication through discmakers.com. The project that I am working on will have a couple of video montages in it. The question I am having is about the songs that I am going to be using for the video. Am I able to use songs in the video if credit them at the end, or will I get in trouble through discmakers for having an illigal use of songs? I am pretty unclear on the legal usage of songs, but I am going to needing about 300 copies of these dvd's and don't want to end up getting in trouble at the end, and since most of you are pretty educated about this stuff out here, im sure ill be able to get some help.
Robbie

Working in radio and television for much of my life, I can tell you that mass producing something without having the rights can have some pretty serious consequences if not done properly. Like it was said before, if this is for profit, then you MUST get approval before making the copies. If not, then you can probably get away with it.
Actually, your biggest mistake might have been posting your question, since now it can be viewed. But it's better to be honest, and you did the right thing.
I'm going to point you to two sources to help you out. One is the American Society of Composers, Authots and Publishers, or ASCAP. They can be found at www.ascap.com. This is one of the licensing places for much of the music you hear on the radio. The other is BMI, at www.bmi.com. Almost any music that you will use can be licensed for distribution through one or both of these companies. It is not cheap, put it is much cheaper than the alternative. You will have to contact them, and figure out how to take care of it. Going this route means you don't have to necessarily write a letter to the artist. They will take care of that for you.
A good way to find out where the song is licensed is to look on the back of the CD cover. It will most likely have either a BMI or ASCAP logo.

Opinions - DVD Mastering Resolution

Hello,
I've read that DVD and DV 4:1:1 have similar resolution. I've also read that DVDs are on the order of resolution of VHS-SP. What I haven't read is... Does a Digi-Beta or DVCPRO 50 video or film transfer look noticeably better when transferred to DVD than a DV master of same video or film?
My guess is yes, because there was a similar argument to be made with VHS dupes in the past coming from 1" type-C, Beta-SP or 3/4" U-matic. In other words, the higher quality somehow filtered through to the dub rather than being filtered out.
Thanks,
Chris

Hi Chris
You are correct that the higher quality the source material, the better the quality of your mpeg. The reason is simple, lets say I have a digi-beta video that I dub to DV. Right there I'm looking at 5:1 compression of the source. On a studio monitor if you compare the digi-beta orig to the DV dub you can see the difference, the DV is a bit softer, edges get more aliasing, fine detail gets blured, etc.
When you convert this to an mpeg, there's all these algorithms that are reinterpreting the source footage and striping as much info out of it as possible while still trying to represent the original. If you've already gone down a generation and softened, blurred, weakened the source, the mpeg will be representative of this and not of the best the footage can look.
Hope that helps
Cheers
B

Schlechte Qualität bei Ausgabe von DVD und Bluray in Encore CS6

Guten Tag
Ich muss für ein Schulprojekt dringend eine DVD UND eine Bluray brennen.
Wie bekomme ich hier nun die beste Qualität hin?
Der Film ist praktisch fertig, doch beim Ausgeben des Films via Dynamik Link in Encore, kommt eine miserable Qualität heraus.
Ich habe 1920x1080 50p als Quelle.
Ich kann ja auf Bluray nur 25p ausgeben, weshalb mir beim H.246 Blu-ray Format schon automatisch oberes Halbbild angegeben wird. Progressiv kann ich gar nicht erst einstellen.
Auch wenn ich die DVD in Standart Format rendere, jedesmal wenn ich mir die Bilder nacher anschaue habe ich eine richtig miese Qualität. Das geht von verpixelten Bildern bis zu "Streifen" im Bild (wahrschienlich von den "erzwungenen" Halbbildern).
Ich habe fast alle Formate und Einstellungen durchprobiert und weiss auch nicht, was es genau mit diesen Bitraten auf sich hat, da ich noch sehr "neu" beim Filme produzieren bin.
Wie schaffe ich es eine Bluray zu brennen, welche eine gleich gute Qualität wie die Bilder meiner Cam (auch 1920x1080 bei 50p) und eine DVD ohne Pixelrennen zu brennen?
Ich danke für jede Hilfe!
Liebe Grüsse

Das wird irgendwie an den beiden Halbbildern (PAL) liegen. Deshalb sieht man den Fehler nicht am Computer.
Kannst du nicht das DVD-T Material außerhalb von Encore nach MPEG2 für DVD entcoden? Also mit einem anderen Programm?
DVD-T ist ein anderes MPEG2-Format als bei DVD.
Martin

Cannot Play DVD After Build in Encore CS6

After building a DVD with Encore on my client's system, it will not play on any computer. When clicking PLAY on the disk drive from Explorer, it returns the error "This file does not have a program associated with it for performing this action..." I can play the VOB files with VLC player, but the DVD will not play.
I do not have a DVD player to test.

When clicking PLAY on the disk drive from Explorer, it returns the error "This file does not have a program associated with it for performing this action..."
A DVD plays fine with VLC on my laptop. Sometimes there is no dvd decoder, but the message you are getting should not be an issue with VLC installed.
Try opening VLC. then Media -> Open Disk; do you see the disk?

I NEED DLT support, can I install only Encore 5.5 along side CS6??

I need DLT support (dropped from CS6 thru some brain-fart by Adobe), can I install only Encore 5.5 and not the rest of the Creative Suite without interfering with CS6? I need to master dual-layer DVDs to DLT tapes and CS6 does not support DLT anymore. For single layer DVDs I can create them in CS6 and master the ISO out to tape on another computer running Encore CS2, but that method doesn't support dual-layer ISOs, they have to be mastered to DLT directly from Encore.
I do not use dynamic link and am fine with using CS6 to get the video ready for conversion to MPEG and AC3. I just don't want to mess up CS6 and don't want a lot of crap I won't be using (the rest of CS5.5) laying around on my hard disk waiting to foul me up in some way in the future.
Anyone done this, heard of it being done, etc?
If I need to I'll revert entirely back to CS5.5, but I REALLY like CS6 except for the one disaster where DLT mastering support was dropped out (a move which may truly be a deal breaker on CS6 for me).
Thanks,
James

No problem installing CS6 over CS5 and/or CS5.5.
I did not find anything in the PR forum right off to give us an example of CS5.5 over CS6. CS4 over CS5 was a problem, and I developed the general belief that one should not install a lower version after a higher. It is not always a problem, but I don't trust it.
I have CS5, CS5.5, and CS6 installed together with no problems. But I installed in that order.
If I were you, I'd consider biting the bullet, uninstalling CS6 (with all the cleaning etc), and then install CS5.5 and then CS6.
Alternatively, do a fresh install of your whole system.
If either of those two reinstalls, you could install CS5.5 over CS6, and let us know how you fare!

Can you download Adobe photoshop CS6 without DVD?

I dont have a DVD drive on my Mac, I received an Adobe photoshop CS6 from school and need to install it by Friday.. Help! I have the PIN number. Thanks

It's a common question for Macs with no DVD drive.
Download the CS6 trial version from http://prodesigntools.com/adobe-cs6-direct-download-links.html
You must follow the Very Important Instructions on that page first otherwise the download links will not work.
Once you've installed the trial, enter your serial number to license it.

Setting a Layer Break for GEAR Pro Mastering Edition with EncoreDVD & IFOEdit

Setting Layer Breaks Manually for Encore/GEAR Projects
Although we can write straight to a DVD+R DL disc directly out of EncoreDVD 2.0 and we can also create our Master DLT tapes directly out of EncoreDVD 2.0 also, there are times when these options simply are not sufficient.
For example - we wish to Verify the successful writing of a DLT Tape, or we wish to create a QC disc for our clients in DVD-R DL format.
Either way, the "option" of using a +R DL disc is often unacceptable.
Another very good reason for +R DL discs to be NFG is that they are NOT DVD-Video format, and as such tend to expect the layers 0 and 1 to be of equal size.
Yet another reason could simply be we are using EncoreDVD 1.01, which does not support direct writing of any DL discs at all.
The solution is to use GEAR Pro Mastering Edition to create your DLT or DVD-R DL disc directly from your Encore project instead.
And here's how you do it.
You are going to need copies of both GEAR Pro Mastering Edition, EncoreDVD (any version) and finally a copy of the freeware application IFOEdit http://www.ifoedit.com/. Additionally, we will also need the GEAR Layer Break Calcuulator, provided for free on their excellent support site at http://www.gearsoftware.com/support/documentation/layerbreakcalculator.xls
Now we are ready - lets look at how it is all done. Don't be put off by what looks like a lot of math here either - this gets easier every time you do it and all it takes is a little common sense and practise.
The best way to proceed is to use EncoreDVD to build your project to a folder. This will not make any Layer Break settings at all, and will allow us to create a new DL Project in GEAR and also allows GR+EAR to build the UDF/ISO structure for us.
So once we have written our tested and checked project to a folder, the next step is to close out of EncoreDVD and launch GPME. By the way - if you're not certain that you need the expense of GPME for a one-off project you can simply download their 30 day trial version and use this as it is 100% fully functional in every way - there are no limitations at all.
When GEAR loads, select to create a new DVD-Video project and be certain you tick the DVD9 box in this screen too. Another window will appear now asking you to locate the folder where the Video_TS files are stored. Point this at the Video_TS folder and GEAR will create a basic DVD9 project for you.
Next we need to load up the Excel Spreadsheet with the Layer Break Calculator we downloaded earlier. I always use a different machine for this as I don't have Office installed and any open source application that can read an XLS file will do the job. If you don't have one, I recommend either OpenOffice or Star Office to do this. There are a lot of helpful calculators in XLS mode, and you won't regret it. Just try to keep all this stuff well clear of your authoring system though. But I am rambling, and I'm sorry. Back to buiness.
Once we have loaded up our Layer Break Calculator, we need to enter in some numbers.
Back over in GPME, where we have our shiny new DVD9 project sat there waiting for instructions, there is a file structure on the lower left hand side of the project screen. Att the top of the list we should see something very much like "VOLUME (projectname) (DVD-Video ISO/UDF)"
Right-click on this, and select "Properties". A screen will appear with all sorts of numbers in it, and we ignore the lot of them except for the "Total Volume Size in Sectors" - which we need to write down, nip across the room to our spreadsheet, and type the number in right at the top where it says "Total Volume (project) Size"
Another set of (probably) meaningless numbers appears - and the 2 we are interested in here are the ones where it says "RULES" and specifically "Layer Break Point must be Greater than .....
And Less than.....
Write these 2 numbers down, and hop smartly back across to where we have our GEAR project open on our authoring machine. Or simply minimize the spreadsheet if we are doing all this on the same system.
We now need to click on the folder marked "Video_TS" in the bottom left of the GEAR screen, and on the lower right we need to click once on the bar in the middle above all the VOB files marked "start sector" to arrange all the files in the sequence they will be on the disc. This makes finding our VTS file so much easier.
Somewhere in that list there will be a file that has that range of numbers in it. If we are really lucky, there will be more than one, which means that one of these will soon become our Layer Break.
When we have identified the correct file, take a note of it's name - it will be VTS_01_4.VOB or something with a similar structure name wise.
Next, we need to write down and enter into the Layer Break Calculator the start sector number of the VTS_xx_1.VOB file that holds our values.
I will try to explain why. If our Sector range is to be found in the example we gave earlier, say VTS_01_4.VOB, we need to note the start sector of the file VTS_01_1.VOB. This is because all these VTS_xx_x.VOB files are all extensions of the same file. They are just in handy blocks so that the Computer can keep track of them without breaking any rules about file sizes. Anyway, we write down the Start Sector of the file VTS_xx_1.VOB where xx is the file where the Layer Break range is to be found.
Just to try & make the concept clear, if the range were found in the file VTS_05_5.VOB, our start sector we need to write down is VTS_05_1.VOB
Enter this into the Calculator/Spreadsheet in the place where it says "Chosen Video Object VTS_xx_1.VOB Start Sector.
Now this will tell us exactly where we need to look next, and tell us we now need to hunt for a cell start sector between a range of sectors.
It might be something like "1,148,678 and 2,051,052" sectors.
This is where IFOEdit comes in.
Launch IFOEdit - and you may as well go back to GEAR, and close the project - but not the application. Go to the "File" menu, and from the drop dow select "Delete GEAR Project" and delete the one we just created, as we will need to change it anyway. Why you will find out later on.
From IFOEdit, you will see 2 halves of a screen. Down the bottom left there is an "Open" button. Click on this and locate the Video_TS folder, and specifically the file VTS_xx_1.IFO, where xx is the file we know from earlier the Layer Break will be placed.
Immediately your head will start to ache, your eyes will glaze over & your brain will wave a little white flag, as some serious mathematics suddenly appears (Well, that's what happened to me the first time. I was too fascinated to be confused - sheer bewilderment is perhaps the best expression. And I still don't know what most of it is for.
The one we are interested in can be found in the upper half, and is called "VTS_PGCITI".
Click on this, and a lot of little others will appear immediately below it.
You will see VTS_PGC_1 and so on until you run out of blocks.
The odds are high our layer break will be in the longest file - but this does not always hold true, so we start at the top & work our way rapidly down. What we are looking for is twofold.
1 - A Cell Start Sector within our range defined earlier.
2 - A cell Start Sector flagged as "NON Seamless playback.
If we can fill both these criteria, we have our layer break.
Write this number down, and enter it into our spreadsheet - and close down IFOEdit as we are done with it for today.
Back in the Spreadsheet we are almost done. Once we enter this number in, it will helpfully calculate exactly where in our Virtual image from earlier that sector lies, and will check to see if it is divisible by 16. Don't worry for now why, just know that it has to do this.
The chances are high it will not be, so the spreadsheet will tell you how many sectors the whole image has to be shifted forwards by, and what the new Cell Start Sector is in this revised image. This is automatic, and you get 2 figures.
1 - Offset. This number will be between 0 and 15.
2 - Layer Break Sector.
Time to go back to GEAR, and in our "Options" drop-down menu we will have another one called "Preferences". In this, we need to tell GEAR to ask us for the start sector to be entered for each file.
Now we create our project again - but this time GEAR will ask us for the start sector of VIDEO_TS_IFO, and the figure 640 will be highlighted.
Add our offset figure we were given earlier to this so if our offset was 11, enter in 651.
GEAR will do all the rest automatically for you.
One more job to do now.
Go Back to "Options/Preferences", and under DVD we need to tell GEAR we are changing the Layer Break. Click on the "Change" button, and use the up/down arrows to arrive at our newly discovered Layer Break Value.
Save the project - we're done. And write down that offset & Layer Break whatever you do.
You can now write to DVD-R DL, DLT tapes (and if you right-click on your DLT drive in the lower "Devices" screen, and choose "Properties", you can tell GEAR to verify the tape after writing too. It will write both layers first, then verify each one.
There is, however, a minor "GOTCHA" in GPME when writing DLT tapes.
It is allowed to set the IDENT.TXT file to be included on the DLT tape by means of a tick box. However, as this file is not actually required for replication in DVD-Video, but only in DVD-ROM - GEAR will not include the file
i even if the box is ticked
but it
i does
add a pointer to the file in the DDPID file instead. The upshot of this is that a DLT tape where IDENT.TXT has been selected to be included will be
i rejected by the factory as unusable.
This is because when they try to verify the DDP image on the tape it will fail as IDENT.TXT is NOT on the tape.
You must ensure this box is NEVER TICKED - I fell for this one recently, and had to rework 7 DLT tapes.
There is yet another way to get a DL project to the factory if you do not have a DLT machine, and do not have access to DL discs in the correct format.
Write the DDP images to 2 single layer discs instead!
This requires the use of GEAR Pro Mastering Edition again, and is incredibly easy to do.
What you need to do here is follow the original guides in the FAQ sections for setting the Layer Break manually, but instead of writing the project to DLT tapes or to DVD-R DL/DVD+R DL media, what we do next is write the project to a DDP file on the HDD instead.
This will result in 2 folders appearing - Layer 0 and Layer 1.
Each of these has the necessary information for the replication plant to manufacture the discs - all we need to do is get them onto 2 discs instead of 2 DLT tapes.
This is simplicity itself.
Launch your burning application.
Create a new DVD-ROM project.
Name it (Project)_Layer_1
Broswe to the 2 folders with the DDP files in them, and add the contents in this exact order
DDPID
CONTROL.DAT
IMAGE.DAT
(Checksum.txt - optional)
(Log file - optional)
Burn the disc.
Repeat for Layer 1.
That is all there is to it.
What will happen at the factory is the Eclipse verification system will look for the DDPID file at the root level of the disc. If it cannot find it, it will assume it is dealing with a standard DVD-ROM disc instead, but if it is there it will know what is going on, load the files, and ask for Layer 1 after it has finished in the normal manner.
I hope this helps out - if not, please post in the main forums, and I'll try to help out.

Hi Ryan,
Yes, you'll only get the LB sector number when you format with one of the "tape images" (go with DDP 2.0). And unfortunately, Gear doesn't allow transfer of DDP or CMF Images to DLT.
Gear is working on a version that will incorporate DVD-9 making within the program.
Meanwhile, If you go with the instructions on their site to create a DVD-9, be sure to add: "correct VTS sectors" in the VIDEO_TS folder with IFOEdit, and set the region info in the VMGM_MAT to "0"; and be sure to flag all instances of a cell properly for the layer break, in the case they reside in any Stories that span the Layers.
But if I may; It's highly recommended that you hire out tests on the resulting DDP image to make sure the layer break did indeed fall where you expected, and that there are no other issues (Same goes with any DDP image destined for replication, created by any other program).
Or better yet, consider hiring someone to premaster for you (I wonder who? , who also includes navigation proofing, spec compliance testing (MEI and sometimes with a player bank) and verifying the finished Image (EclipseSuite); all for one low fixed price, i.e. no charge in the event a resubmission to me is required (pre consultation, also included, nips lots of common mistakes in the buds). This insures that only a bullet-proof Image is finally sent in to the replicator.
There I go with commercials again! But for sure, Gear's current DVD-9 method is not for the faint of head; and premastering in general, is not the innocuous activity it appears to be. Real trouble eventually awaits (unless measures are taken), due to the nature of the critter.
Take care,
Trai

Can you enable CSS using Encore to write DLT with CSS?

re: CSS Copy Protection
I'm posting to find out if Encore can write a DVD master with CSS 'enabled' with the CSS keys turned on for replication mastering.
It's as easy as clicking a radio button in Apple's DVD Studio Pro to write a DLT tape master with CSS enabled. We submit the DLT tape master with CSS 'enabled' to replication mastering dept. that then 'activates' the CSS keys to create a glass master and stamper with CSS copy protection. All DVD's pressed from a CSS enabled & activated stamper carry CSS copy protection on each DVD disc.
Thank you.
Brian alan

Yes, Encore supports CSS flags for mastering to DLT for replication.

DVD Mastering to DLT in CS6?

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