Exporting to Uncompressed 8 Bit Turns out very glitchy & other issues
Hi Guys,
I am doing a wedding at the moment, and I have exported the service & photoshoot sequences fine into an uncompressed 8bit (pal) file then importing into DVD SP and it has been fine also.
Now my problem is I am doing the reception (1 hr 20 m) and when I play the file after it being exported it seems to show blank unless i move the scroller, u can hear the audio fine but once moving the scroller around the video still only play every a few frames every 5 secs.
What is going on? Please help me! I need to get this done by the end of the week.
Thanks guys!
Matt
G5 Dual 1.8ghz Mac OS X (10.4.10)
Hi, I followed a tutorial suggesting to export to that, then using compresser to convert to mpeg2 for dvd. As it is faster that way instead of exporting to compresser direct form the timeline.
The footage is HD 1080i PAL.
Any other export suggestions?
Similar Messages
-
I have a problem that I can not load or even close the download in iTunes, it turns out I have hanging in the mode, and because of that I can't download from AppStore, because it turns out that the other programs I have on standby. What do I do? Thank you.
If there are multiple apps trying to download at once, only one can download at a time and the rest say "Waiting" until it is then their turn. Try this. Double tap the icon of the Waiting app, and it should resume the download.
If that doesn't work:
• Log out of your iTunes store account. Go to Settings > Store > Sign Out Then press the Home button.
• Then press and hold the Home and Sleep buttons simultaneously and don't release them when it brings up the Turn Off screen; keep holding them until the Apple logo appears.
• After restart, the Waiting should be gone.
Cheers, Tom -
I have been trying to develop digital pictures from my ipad2 photo library. I don't have iPhoto. When I develop them with snapfish or Walgreens they are fuzzy and blurry (low res/pixels). I know it's not the camera because I have printed these same photos before. They are crystal clear on my iPad. I don't know what to try next .
Contact Snapfish and Walgreens customer/technical support in regards to their digital photo developing service.
-
When I download pictures from my digital camera into iPhoto, they turn out a nice large size (usually almost the full screen), but when somebody e-mails me pictures and I import them into iPhoto, or when I transfer old photos from an old library into my new iPhoto library, they turn out very small--not exactly thumbnail-size, but too small to use for calendars or photo books. I don't know much about computers, so I don't know how this happened. Also, I can't find any discernible pattern to why this happens with some pictures and not others--ie: what I described above is usually true, but I have had e-mailed photos or old photos turn out the way I want them, which is in the larger size in iPhoto. Why is this happening, and how can I make all the pictures the larger size?
Some mail programs, including Apple Mail, can reduce the size of images that are attached to a message. It's happening at the sender's end, and all you can do is ask the sender for a larger image.
-
I have Adobe Elements 9 and I used to be able to export HD 1080p videos with no issue. But recently, when I export using H.264 MPEG or MPEG 2, which I normally used, the high resolution videos come out very choppy. How can i fix this?
mr
Are you running the 9.0.1 Update of the program and on what computer operating system is it running?
Is your video card/graphics card driver up to date according to the manufacturer of the card?
Is your computer optimized, including maintenance of pile ups of preview files, conformed audio files, and conformed video files?
Do you have the latest version of QuickTime installed on your computer with Premiere Elements 9.0/9.0.1?
What are your project settings and what are the properties of your source media? When you say that "used to be able to export...." is that on the same computer, same brand/model/settings for the camera recording the video now in use, same Premiere Elements 9.0/9.0.1?
Where player are you using for the playback of these exports?
Please give us more details on the size of the projects (then and now) as well as details of the customized export settings in your Share/Computer/ route. Premiere Elements 9.0/9.0.1 is only a 32 bit application running in 32 bit or 64 bit system. Not sure if computer resources might be taxed more so now than before.
More later.
ATR -
Exporting for web in Illustrator 6, why are my png & gif images turning out blurry?
I have never had this problem before. I am exporting an image for web in Illustrator 6 and my images are all turning out blurry. I have attached a sample image as well as a screenshot of my current settings, although I have messed with the settings quite a bit and I seem to have this problem no matter what I do.
You can also view the image here: http://mendotawaterfront.com/floorplans/unit-a-1124-sq-ft/gwynthfair,
Apart from its inverted colour, the image in the OP does look rather bad when clicked, but the linked version seems quite normal given the size. -
Slideshow-Exported PDF is a bit washed out
I exported my first Slideshow to a PDF file.
Looking at the PDF using the Mac Preview program the images were a bit washed out compared to the images within lightroom.
So I tried exporting some of the images to the desktop and comparing them to the images within LR and the PDF. The exported images were as vibrant as within LR. And the PDF file still looked washed out compared with them. I even downloaded the Adobe Reader and the slideshow PDF looked washed out on it.
My conclusion is that this .PDF file has images more washed out than they ought to be.
I have never created a PDF file before. Is washing out of images normal? Or am I doing someting wrong?
ThanksI'll try that out tomorrow and see what I find out.
Thanks. Too bad this Helpful button still seems broken -
I cannot export to "Uncompressed 10-bit 4:2:2" format. Help!
I need to deliver clips to a stock agency but I cannot export the footage from iMovie with the uncompressed format I need. Not in iMovieHD, nor in iMovie8, nor in FCE. I tried it with a 10 second clip, so it can not be the length or files getting too big!
So what happens?
Exporting to Uncompressed 10-bit 4:2:2
If I try this setting, on all occasions iMovie simply crashes and I get the "iMovie quit unexpectedly" window. The same thing happens in FCE.
Exporting to Uncompressed 8-bit 4:2:2
When I export using this seting, iMovie SEEMS to export the file as it should. But when I open the file in Quicktime, the timebar indicates the full 10 seconds, but the video & audio freezes after about 1 or 2 seconds, the clip keeps playing and I hear & see the last second of the clip again. The same thing happens with files exported with this setting in iMovieHD, iMovie8 and FCE.
I've read on the forum that I should not worry about the quicktime movie not playing right, because the file can be imported into Final Cut without any problems. So I try not to worry about this and hope the stock agency can work with the files... But that still does not explain why I cannot export to 10-bit 4:2:2 without my video programs crashing!
And yes, I've also tried doing this on my Macbook with Intel processor. With the same result.
Can somebody please help me with any suggestions? Thanks!!
DaniëllaYou don't say what's the source of your clips.
If standard DV (..though I doubt that an agency would accept standard def video any more..) NTSC DV is compressed in the camera as 4:1:1, and PAL DV is compressed as 4:2:0 ..so you won't get true 4:2:2 from normal DV, unless you're using a broadcast camera (..probably feeding into the capture device via SDI inputs).
If the source was tape-based HDV or any other hi-def source, then iMovie converts that, during import, into Apple Intermediate Codec, and wouldn't be able to output proper Uncompressed 4:2:2 material.
For Uncompressed 4:2:2, I think you'll need to be using a dedicated capture card - and massive-capacity hard discs! - to be able to import the material in the first place.
iMovie certainly isn't the program to handle pro video of this nature.
Ask in the Final Cut Pro Discussions..
"..I've also tried doing this on my Macbook with Intel processor.." ..but maybe that's just not fast enough (older Mac portables have "shared graphics memory" ..meaning their graphics processor may have to compete with the main processor to temporarily grab free RAM)! -
Problems exporting to uncompressed MS-AVI (PPro 2.0)
Hi!
I have done a little film with still images. When trying to export 20-30 seconds from it (just to try it out), the resulting file is unplayable, and seems corrupt(normally I can play uncompressed video). Before I started this project, I did a test project with other still images, exporting to uncompressed Microsoft AVI, and it was no problem. Now it doesn't work, and neither does uncompressed Quicktime.
Changing the 10-bit YUV compressor to 8 bit results in a file that is playable, but the picture is distorted and made up of narrow lines.
Exporting to DV-AVI works allright, though.
The only difference between this project and the previous test project is higher quality pictures, and texts on top.
Could there be some setting that I need to adjust? Here is all the information I know:
Computer:
Dell Dimenion 8300
Intel Pentium 4 CPU 2.80 GHz
1,50 Gb RAM
Windows XP
Service Pack 3
Premiere Pro 2.0
project setting: DV PAL Widescreen
export settings:
Uncompressed MS AVI
work area bar
10-bit Yuv
25 fps
aspect ratio: D1/DV PAL Widescreen 16:9 (1.422)
Data rate: recompress, maintain data rate
Bit Depth: use project setting
Fields: no fields (progressive)
The pictures are jpg , and the audio is mp3.
It would be great if someone with knowledge could point to what may be the problem!John caught that "higher quality" mention, as did I. I think that the linked article will be helpful.
Though it does not seem that you are having an issue with the MP3, you might keep this ARTICLE in mind, should you encounter any. Some MP3's never cause an issue, and some users happily use them. In many other cases, however, they do cause issues.
Good luck,
Hunt -
I am no musician, but have owned an iMac now for around four years. During that time I have had Garageband installed. I have dipped in and out very occasionally as I would like nothing more than to be able to get my head around it just for my own amusement really. I would at least like to be able to record my electric guitar with loops and tracks etc, just try to be a bit creative and see what comes out. The problem that I have is that perhaps its me, but every time I try to get to grips with this software, I just can't seem to get my head around it, even to begin to do something. I have now recently downloaded 10.0.2 which is confusing in itself, as, as far as I can ascertain that is actually version 11, but I'm not even sure about that. I have also recently purchased a Rocksmith RealTone Cable to connect my guitar. I can sometimes get a sound come out, but nothing to brilliant. And every time I try to set something up, it just doesn't seem to work out. I end up hitting buttons and controls in the simple hope that I may hit the correct control in order to get some sort of result. But I'm kind of fumbling in the dark with this. I have trawled the Internet just trying to find either a good manual or video tutorials for absolute beginners, but there just simply doesn't seem to be anything of that nature out there and what there is appears always to be very sketchy and not particularly detailed in explaining anything properly, and so I always find myself seemingly jumping in with both feet and just struggling to try and find a foothold with this on how to really begin. It is so frustrating as I can see the fantastic potential of this software, but just can't understand how to use it properly. If there is anyone out there who may be able to offer me some advice with this, I would be most grateful indeed... Many Thanks.
I have now recently downloaded 10.0.2 which is confusing in itself, as, as far as I can ascertain that is actually version 11, but I'm not even sure about that.
Version 10.0.2 is the newest version and the successor to GarageBand '11 (version 6.0.5).
The '11 is referring to the iLife '11 suit of multimedia application - the older GarageBand was a part of this bundle.
Have a look at Edgar's graphical enhanced manuals, the explain very detailed how things work and why. You can buy them as iBooks from the iBook store or directly from the page:
http://DingDingMusic.com/Manuals/ -
I opened a file on my desktop that I don't remember putting there. We use many photos and I thought it was a photo file I was looking for. It turned out to be a keychain certificate from a client of ours. Does this mean that they were spying on me? What is the deal with that? Any ideas?
Interesting tid bit. I created an AAC of the original file, deleted the original MP3 from my library and also deleted the Clean matched track from the icloud.
Result is that it matched with the explicit version of Mrs. Officer this time.
What I am curious about is which songs this is happening for. I've went thru a few batched of about 500 songs at a time and redownloaded in 256k for many tracks. Sadly we don't have people to bring this to our attention and I have so much music that it's impossible to go thru every song to make sure I am getting the right version. -
iPhone 4 OS 7.1.2 (11D257) display normal when switching on, turns to very high contrast with bright primary colours only, no tonal graduation.Initially problem arose every time I switched the Camera on, but has worsened such that any application can cause it. In Camera, after a short time screen goes black. Also, Wifi no longer works.
You're welcome
In case you don't want to buy a new iPhone, Apple will replace the whole unit if you are willing to pay the service fee of 149$ for the iPhone4.
Out-of-warranty repair service
If your repair isn’t covered by Apple’s One Year Limited Warranty, AppleCare+, or AppleCare Protection Plan, your iPhone might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. For example, liquid damage isn’t covered by warranty but might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. Some damage isn’t eligible at all, for example if your device has been broken into multiple pieces. See Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions for complete details.
Read Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions
Model
Out-of-warranty service fee
Battery service*
iPhone 6 Plus
$329
$79
*available only if battery
fails Apple’s diagnostic test
iPhone 6
$299
iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5
$269
iPhone 4s
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 3G,
Original iPhone
$149
Plus a $6.95 shipping fee, if required. Fees are in USD and exclude local tax. Pricing is for service through Apple. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above. Pricing and terms vary for service through an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
copied from Service Answer Center - iPhone -
Can I maually check for updates but prevent them from being automatically installed if it turns out one is available?
Background:
In options I have "check for updates, but let me choose whether to install them" ticked. This works fine, in that I periodically receive a notice of an available update, and it will ask me whether I want to I want to install it.
But there are certain times -- for reasons I won't go into here (unless requested as part of seeking a solution) -- where I want to manually check for new versions, but RETAIN the ability to decide whether or not to install it. But if I click Help/About Firefox/Check for Updates, and it finds an update, it will immediately proceed to install it without asking for permission. While that seems quite inconsistent with my update preferences in Options, it is apparently normal behavior as described in https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/update-firefox-latest-version#w_how-do-i-manually-check-for-updates.
So is there any way I can manually check for new-update availability but then refuse the update if I so choose? Once an unwanted install begins, I'm concerned that if I click cancel I could end up with a partial installation or some "messed up," duplicated or corrupted FF files (e.g., multiple versions appended with (1), (2) etc, similar to what sometimes confusingly happens when I do an XP System Restore).
Thanks.I think what needs to be made very clear here is that when a user clicks on "check for updates" the software should bloody well CHECK for updates and most certainly SHOULD NOT proceed to download and apply any updates. this is misleading and intrusive.
I just wanted to check if there was an updated version but I DID NOT want to actually update at that moment. the software downloaded data, costing me money and tried to apply the update which could have potentially messed up my settings if I had not checked everything was ok first.
I actually discovered how to prevent the update by searching through windows and manually deleting the files but why should anyone have to go to such lengths?
the software should simply do as it is asked, not do things that have most certainly not been asked. -
I'm attempting to create online help sourced from a FrameMaker 10 book using Robohelp 9 and Web Help (primary layout).
The text is interspersed with numeorus small icons which, in the FrameMaker documents, are .bmp images inserted into anchored frames in the lines of text.
Most of these icons were imported by reference into the FrameMaker book's chapters. Some were copied from another FrameMaker book and pasted into the present book.
Many of these images are turning out blank in the finished Help project.
Robohelp seems to convert these images into JPEGS.
In the source FrameMaker book, the images which appear OK in the Help project have Object Properties including: Facets: FrameVector JPEG ... Referenced File: No File
The images which appear blank have different object properties there: Facets: DIB ... Referenced File: (address of the image's source file)
How can I fix this and make all of the images appear in the Online Help?Sorry, Jeff. I missed the key word in your instructions. Well, I did the import and still no luck. I'm getting the exact same results with the same images. (In some cases, I'm even getting hidden conditional text from the FM document body showing up in the image's frame instead of the image! See below.) This is bizarre behavior, but it's not new with the import. It is happening both in the linked and imported WebHelp with the same exact images. (Just another piece to complicate the puzzle.) So we have some jpeg images that are blank, and a few that are glitchy. From what I can tell, the commonality, besides the fact that all these new images are in jpeg format instead of gif format, is that all the blank and glitchy images are in a text inset. I'm beginning to think maybe RH just doesn't support text insets at all.
Arnis, I'll have to ask my colleague how she created the images next week when she's back from vacation. I have no clue if there are any differences between the jpegs and why some are showing up correctly. What do you mean by "compression type or level?" Are you asking about the resolution (high, medium, low) she chose when saving the images, or which program she used to do the screen capture and editing? (We have Adobe Photoshop CS5 and FM 11).
My next step is to copy-paste all the content from the text insets into my FM document (in the book I am linking) and re-render to see if that solves the problem. It will make single-sourcing impossible because I'll have to copy-paste the new content and images my colleague creates into my document each time we do an update, but oh well.
Here is an example of a glitchy image in RH:
And here is what it looks like in FM:
So bizarre! -
Business trying to take product pictures, turning out dark
Let me preface this by saying no one who works here has had experience with photography and any guidance would be much appreciated.
We just got the Rebel t5i to help us get better pictures of our instruments and other merchandise for our website. I've spent 3 days reading about all the various settings of the camera (ISO, shutter speed, exposure, aperature, filters, lenses) and different lighting options.
The set up we currently have is as follows:
4 par 64 lighting cans with diffusing gels, (2 on an 10 ft. adjustable tree stand, the other 2 on individual adjustable stands) charcoal backdrop. It is important to note that we have this set up in a corner of the store so we're working with being able to light from the front, 1 side and above.
We're having a few problems.
(This is after much trial and error with settings. The best one I was able to find was on Manual mode, 1/250 shutter speed, f 5.6, iso 800, aeb exposure and tungsten filter to help with the yellowing due to the florescent light)
1. We can't get the camera to produce an accrate color profile of the items consistently. In the first picture, you can see that the color is more yellow and it's even distorting around the edges. The second picture is more accurate in terms of what the color looks like in natural light but we were never able to get that when we were shooting the guitar closer up.
2. For black guitars or guitars with black edges, we're losing the edges no matter what we try to do with the lighting.
Do we need more light? or just the light we have being reflected better? different lense on the camera? Any advice would be seriously appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Jamie
Kentucky Music CompanyGels don't "diffuse" -- they merely change the color of the light. Sometimes you change the color for an effect (e.g. light a neutral background with a colored "gel" and put a different light on the subject.
For example... if your background were farther away and a neutral "white" then you could dedicate a light to the background with a colored gel so that the background color always complements the product color (complementary colors can usually be found by using a color wheel). This basically gives you the ability to make your background any color you want without physically changing the background.
Another good reason to put some distance between product and background is to create better separation of the product. The edges of the product can now pick up reflections that you can control and you wont have a black against black problem that you're having here. It also allows the background to fall outside the depth of field (the range at which things appear to be nicely focused) -- this allows you to deliberately blur the background and yet have a tack-sharp subject for even better subject isolation.
I can see the shadows are casting hard edges on the background -- which isn't a good look. When we talk about "diffusing" a light, what we really mean is that we make the shadows edges soft and gradual. If light originates from a pin-point source, you get a well-defined shadow. It has a hard edge. E.g. when you stand outside on a sunny day and look at your own shadow, you can see the shape of your body on the ground because that's considered a pin-point light source (the sun's angular diameter is only about 1/2º from edge to edge.) If, on the other hand, you shoot the light through a very broad diffusing material (such as a "shoot through" umbrella which has a diameter several feet across, NOW the light appears to originate from the entire surface area of the fabric on the umbrella. That nice broad light source means you don't get shadows with hard edges... instead things gently change from light to shadow and it's a much better look.
As I stare at the knobs and pickups on the front of your first image, I can see a very definite shadow with defined edges -- which we don't want. This is because your light source appears to originate from a small area (basically a "point source"). There are many ways to diffuse light... shoot-through umbrellas, reflective umbrellas, soft-boxes, etc. will all cuase the light to appear to originate from a very broad source.
You also mentioned you are struggling with white balance and getting the colors to show accurately.
The easiest way to handle this (and nail it) is to use something called a "gray card". When you use a white balance setting on the camera, that's just a good "guess" at the right white balance setting. But when you use a gray card you can be sure you actually have the correct white balance... every time.
The "card" is just a surface that's painted gray. But not just any gray will work. This gray is formulated to be guaranteed to be "color neutral" and the camera and post processing software expect this. There are two ways to use it.
If you shoot JPEG images (I always only shoot RAW) then you place the gray card in the IDENTICAL lighting that you will use to photograph your subject. In the photo below, I'd put the gray card right in front of the guitar. Center the card in the camera's viewfinder and get in close (it doesn't need to fill the whole camera frame, but it should cover most of the middle of the frame.). The camera doesn't even need to be focused (its almost better if it's not focused). Take a photo of the card.
If you shoot RAW, you just need one photo that has the gray card in it -- anywhere. It just needs to be in the identical light conditions as your product. Remove the gray card after you take this shot and then shoot the rest of your images as you normally would. This "gray card" image will serve as a reference image and will be used later.
Since the room lights are not technical a neutral "white" color (the light has a colored tint to it) it will alter the color of the gray on the card. This is what we want because know we have an object for which the camera actually KNOWS the true "color" and yet it can see the "apparent" color (caused by the tint of the light) and this lets the camera (or computer software) make the color correction to get the colors back to true color.
If you shoot JPEG you can use something called "custom white balance" (CWB). You'll go into the camera's white balance menu, pick the "custom white balance" (CWB) option. It will prompt you to select the image on your memory card which contains the gray card shot. Find and select that image. The camera will then analyze the apparent color of the card (compared to what it knows is the true color of the card) and will adjust the colors by subtracing the color tint from the image. Now... EVERY shot you take with that particular CWB setting will have the identical color correction applied. Just note that if you change your lights, move your product to a different spot, etc. then you have to shoot a new gray-card image and re-select it as the new CWB reference image.
If you shoot RAW (my preferred method) the camera doesn't do anything as you shoot... just make sure you captured one image with the gray card and then shoot the rest of your shots without the card.
When you unload the images into your computer software, you'll find the image with the gray card and you'll use your "white balance" tool (Adobe Lightroom is recommended if you shoot RAW -- there are others.) The tool will usually have an eye-dropper icon. Pick the icon and it'll prompt you to go pick a pixel from your image. Go pick a pixel on that gray-card you have in the photo. The software will apply white balance correction based on the gray card and that will fix that one image to have accurate white balance. Having done this, you can now "sync" that white balance correction to every single shot you took in your photo shoot (provided they were shot in the identical lighting). You've now applied white balance correction to the entire shoot.
I should warn you that the colors on your computer monitor are probably not accurate unless you own a color calibration tool and have calibrated the monitor. I use a Colormunki Photo (by X-Rite). The Datacolor Spyder is also popular. It has software that changes the color of your display to various calibration colors so the tool can determine how accurately your monitor displays color and it then creates a "profile" for your monitor so that the colors on your screen are true to real-life colors (otherwise when you think you have the color correct on YOUR screen, it may look wrong on someone OTHER screen.)
There is a little more to it... but that gets color pretty close. It turns out your camera may have various levels of sensitive to saturations of reds, greens, and blues that vary. So X-Rite makes a device called the "Color Checker". It has a card with colored squares on it -- you photograph the card, white balance it, and then pull up the image in their software and they can detect that even though the white balance is correct, certain color saturations may still need some tweaking -- and the software applies these adjustments for you. In the end you can be confident that the colors are bang-on accurate. If anyone else thinks the colors are wrong... it's their montior which is out of whack... not yours.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da
Maybe you are looking for
-
Dual monitor settings on macbook pro 13"
I am using a 13" MacBook Pro (non retina display) that only has 1 thunderbolt port to connect a 2nd display. I was able to get 2 displays to work by using a mini display port to HDMI adaptor and USB to HDMI adaptor. However, I can not get the monit
-
I have a Lucid 2 LG. I have been having trouble with insuffient storage. I have a 8G phone and have spent hours with Tier 2 tech trying to move info from the internal storage to the SD card with no luck, When I go to storage in the settings it sta
-
Message posted from BPEL not found in oc4j JMS queue
Hi, I am facing a weird problem when I try to post a message in oc4j JMS from a BPEL process. There is no exception(Not even in the logs) and the BPEL process gets completed. But the message is missing(Could not find it while monitoring the queue). I
-
How to set up Microsoft Office Communicator ?
this app comes with Anna Upgrade to my N8 device and i know from previous topic that it used for a IM , but i don't know how to set it up.... and the user name and the password for what account ? .... and what's the CWA server URL? ..... and from whe
-
I keep trying to install the latest version of firefox and it's not working
I'm running firefox 3.something, I think, and I keep trying to install the latest version on my mac. I go through saving it, opening it, dragging the icon to my apps file...and when I drag it to my apps file it takes a few seconds to do *something*,