Finalized Back up lingers

So I don't get this. I took the advice of an Apple tech: At first back-up, it is good to connect via ethernet cable. I've done that and my back up has been exceptionally quick. However, it has been finalizing my back up for the past 2.5 hours SERIOUSLY! Does anyone have any advice on this? I'm extremely frustrated with this and very very close to returning this product and just consider Apple to be massive dead weight products, like their very buggy 3rd Generation iPod Nano and their disposable wireless Might Mouse. Please, help!

Just got off the phone. Yikes... what a long wait. Since having gotten on the phone, the original 5MB backup finally completed and another backup started and completed with similar slowness. It took about an hour to backup about 252KB. Half of that time was in the prepare and finish stages which I can understand may take time since TM is checking files and volumes. I noticed a lot of network activity watching the Activity Monitor with all other apps closed. Not sure if it's coming from TM about 400+ KB/second. I'm not sure why TM took so long to transfer 252KB though.
The phone tech had me test the drive by copying a 1MB file to the TC. Everything appears normal as that file transferred in about 1 second. The tech didn't have much to add. I'll just keep an eye on it to see if the performance degrades any more.

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Display has gone - can anyone assist me to do a final time machine backup?

Hi all,
My macbook pro for the last couple of months has done something odd sporadically - the display kind of crashed (ie looked like the screen was smashed pixels everywhere) so I assumed my mac was on its last days and ordered a new one, hopefully arriving tomorrow.(i did get it in 2006 or 2007)
However, last week the display went for good, and i really cant see my screen very well. I tried turning it on and off lots of times, and while this worked for a little while (ie if i turned it off 20 times once might work) it doesnt anymore. (of course the lesson learnt is the minute things start to seem wrong do the back up! grr) I did back up everything with time machine but not that often...the last one was probably a month or so ago, so i would like to do a final back up to make a copy of anything new that was added in that last month, as there were plenty of important additions
As i can see a tiny bit of the screen around all the distorted areas, i might be able to tweak a couple of options in time machine, if someone could kind of direct me - ie, what happens when time machine starts etc and what I should click, i might be able to do another back up.
my time machine back up is on an external hard drive...and from what i remember, when i plug in the external hard drive it automatically starts backing up. however, now, i can see the icon in the top corner (next to the wifi signal, spotlight icons etc) but it doesnt spin around (the movement it made whilst backing up)...any advice?
alternatively, would a better solution be to kind of remotely salvage contents of my dead macbook with my new one? is that something i can do even though I won't be able to adjust security settings/bluetooth visibility settings etc on my dead macbook (forgive my ignorance i really know nothing about this, (obviously) just that I know thats possible in some cases to repair etc)
any advice would be more than welcome, i assume its a memory issue that has caused my screen to pack up like this. the trouble is you have a half decent view of the desktop at first (plus i can remember where most things are) but once you start clicking or moving things the display goes a bit mad! sadly i can't take it to an apple genius or store as i live quite far from one, and was quite resigned to scrapping this one and getting a new update anyway, so i really dont want to replace the memory etc for something i wont use again.
Many, many, many thanks in advance!
from what i can recall, i think its a silver macbook pro 15' bought around 2006 or 2007, I think it has a 2.2 ghz processor and had about 150 gb hard drive.

Pull out the hard drive, put it in a nice external case (I like the ones from Other World Computing macsales.com). You can then transfer the data to your replacement Mac as soon as you get it, and can work from the data on that drive with any Mac until you get a new one of your own.
While you're at it, get another external drive that's at least as large as the drive in your new Mac to use for backups. Keep on it a recent bootable backup of your drive (using Carbon Copy Cloner, backuplist+, or something similar) as well as frequent Time Machine or similar backups on some other device.

Backing Up Tiger w/ External Hard Drive

I am finally backing up my Macs! I purchased an external hard drive and have successfully backed up my Macbook via Time Machine. When I attempted to back up my iMac (10.4.11, Tiger) using the same hard drive, I notice there's a Time Machine icon on my desktop when it connects. Do I backup my iMac differently than my Macbook (given the age difference)? Do I drag and drop or copy the Mac HD into its own folder?

Time Machine does not run on Tiger.
Use either a separate HD, or a separate partition for those backups. See #3 in Time Machine - Frequently Asked Questions.

I'm temporarily using my daughters 4s since mine went underwater. how do i back up my data on her phone without overwriting her backup file in icloud?

my 4s went in the ocean this past weekend. ugh. guess it was time enough to switch to a 5 anyway. so i commanderred my daughers 4s to use as my own for a week or so while i get the new 5. I backed up her data to our family shared icloud account (7 devices and 50g), and then deleted and restored from my own backup. i also changed the name on her phone to my own. but, now when i look at the backup management on icloud, it shows her backup with "this device" under and my new name on it. I expect if i back up to icloud now it will not overwrite the back up i restored it from, it will overwrite the most recent back up of this device, which was her final back up. how do i back mine up- perhaps just to itunes for a week or so, until i can restore her back up back to her phone?
any help would be appreciated.
thanks-
dad in trouble...

If this is your first sync and there is already data on the phone, perform the steps listed below. This will transfer your apps and other media purchased from the iTunes store to your iTunes library, perform a manual backup and restore, then sync the iTunes media back to the phone from your iTunes library. This will not transfer media from other sources such as music from your ripped CDs. As you said you never synced before, I assume all of your apps, music and other media was purchased from the iTuens and App stores. If this is correct, you won't lose anything.
Download and install iTunes: http://www.apple.com/itunes/.
Launch iTunes, go to the View menu and click to check Show Sidebar.
Go to iTunes>Preferences>Devices (Edit>Preferences>Devices if using Windows) and check "Prevent...from syncing automatically".
Go to Store>Authorize This Computer and authorize all Apple IDs used to purchase apps and other iTunes media (music, podcasts, movies, tv shows, etc.) on your phone.
On her phone, go to Settings>iCloud>Storage & Backup and turn iCloud Backup to Off.
Connect her phone to your computer and in iTunes go to File>Devices>Transfer Purchases to transfer your purchased media to your iTunes library.
Right-click on the name of the phone on the left side of iTunes and click "Reset Warnings".
Right-click on the name of the phone again and click "Back Up" to back up the phone.
Right-click again and choose "Restore from Backup...", select the backup you just made to restore from and restore the backup to your phone. If prompted to back up again, decline.
Go to the Info tab and make sure nothing is checked so you aren't syncing calendars, contacts, etc. with iTunes.
Go to the Summary tab and select This Computer under Automatically Back Up.
Check the other tabs to confirm that your sync settings are the way you want them.
Click Apply at the bottom to sync your phone.

Personal Hotspot goes away, takes forever to get it back, then adds another homegroup each time

I am out of town and trying to use my personal hotspot. Ever since I updated to OS 5 I have had this problem. When I disconnect in windows 7, I can not reconnect withouth messing with settings. When it does connect it creates a new homegroup so my iPhone is now up to group 10! Yikes I need help!! I am working remotely this week plus I am in school full time I dont have time for this? Any suggestions out there??? Went to the ATT store they had me delete the connection and start over, worked fine for a bit, then shut down my computer and I am finally back on after 30 minutes of trying.

Same problem. iPhone 4s w/OS 5.
I activate my iPhone's hotspot (with password), connect via wifi, work (or play) a bit, get distracted for a few minutes, come back and there's no internet, check wifi connection, not connected, signal from the iPhone is not present, refresh to look for wifi signals, other signals are there but not iPhone's. The hotspot simply goes away.
I ditched another isp with spotty service with the intention of connecting my pc and iPad to the internet via my iPhone. Did I make a big mistake thinking my iPhone hotspot would be more stable?

Backing up ( movie folder and itune movie category)

I don't want to offend anyone. Please let me know if this post should be on itune or broken up for itune, iphoto and imovie.
Trying to to complete this backing up process, but get it lean and clean before the final back up.
As I looked closer at my almost full HD using "whatsize it", I notice that these files: movie ( movie folder and itune movie category) and music( itune and music folder ) and photos ( iphotos and picture folder ). Apparently as I was downloading from camera, making movie, or what ever to get or create the files they were being place in various places. I see now I am not using the full potential of organization on my imac.
It seems that I tune and iphotos are storage like libraries, with itunes having the capabilities to play back the music and movies. Question-should I transfer all the items into the storage application of itune and iphotos? Then erase the files from the others location?
Also what is the suggested format of transport into Itune for music and movies?
I noticed in Itunes and iphoto various folders with years and dates. Do I need these folder after transfer into itune and iphoto? What I'm trying to say do these Apps need to assess the dated folder to show or play the movie, music or display photos?
In my movie folder, I see many folders that my son made with final cut.The folders have a star in the middle and above the star is some type of black broad ➤➤➤➤➤➤. Inside of the folder is a quicktime movie and another folder titled " media", which contains a AIFF sound file. Can I transfer this QT movie into Itune? Do I need the audio file that in the media folder? Will he be able to use this movie for another project or to continue completion?
In the imovie project folder, there is one movie, but it does show up as QT. Is this the format format for Imovie? Do I need to export to itunes or QT for later transport into itune?
Austin

I received this from thomas. I also gave my response. I have a start.
Thomas A Reed
Posts: 1,680
Registered: Jan 1, 2006
Re: video or photo's in backing up data
Posted: Jul 16, 2009 6:31 AM in response to: Austin Smith2
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If you're having trouble with organization of files, it's probably best to start using Time Machine and just let it back up everything on all your drives. The catch is that it needs a minimum of 2-3 times as much space as whatever it's backing up. If you currently have everything on the 250 GB internal drive, one of your 500 GB external drives would be an adequate backup, even if you move some files over to the other 500 GB drive. (You don't need 2-3 times more than the total drive capacity, just 2-3 times the size of the contents to be backed up.) But you said your 250 GB drive was almost full, so if your data grows much further, 500 GB won't be good enough, so you would need to buy a 1 TB drive at that point.
17" MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.5.7)
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Austin Smith2
Posts: 470
Registered: Oct 31, 2001
Re: video or photo's in backing up data
Posted: Jul 16, 2009 6:38 AM in response to: Thomas A Reed
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Thanks, then I will back up with time machine and go today and get 2 Itb. I was given this suggestion for a new drive.
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/firewire/1394/USB/EliteAL/eSATAFW800_FW400USB
I give these other drive to my sons.
Thanks, Austin
imacG5 ,iMac7,1,Intel Core 2 Duo,Memory:1 G, super drive-MATSHITA DVD-R UJ-825 Mac OS X (10.5.2) Intel Core 2 Duo, Processor Speed: 2 GHz, Processors:1, Cores: 2, Memory:1 GB,

Back from exile

What a bummer, being banned from a techie site by your boss. I'd probably go through withdrawals if I were banned.

Many months ago I post a topic about being "banned" from Spiceworks (you can check that here), to be honest right now I felt like it has been years since the last time I logged in here. Many of you told me to change jobs, for a good (or a bad) thing I haven't do that yet but I'm planning to; once I'm done with the actual project (this is the last strike, or we take it out of the park or we are out once and for all).After all of these months (years for me :P) I'm finally back to check, read, post once again and see what has been of SW since I left. I don't think many people miss me here but it's good to know that nevertheless you always receive someone with arms wide open. So that's it and I'll try to keep up somehow, hoping not to be banned again
This topic first appeared in the Spiceworks Community

Back flush through the router

Is there a report I can run that will find materials not marked for back flush in the router? We happened upon one because it was a large order and the final back flush was off by a significant amount. What concerns me is if there are others but the orders are small and so the back flush error is insignifacant.
mary

Hi...
try this:
Hard wire your pc to router...If you are now connected to the router then access the Routers page, how to access UI/routers page? :
* launch Internet Explorer
* clear everything in the address bar then type 192.168.1.1
* if you will be prompted by username and password, then leave the username blank then type admin for the password (note: if you didn't change the password of the router)
*if you are now in the UI page, you will get the info. you need in the "Wireless" tab..
Just helping...
Tell me if it works..
Gobless..

How do I back up my mbp using external drive...

that has been used to backup my macbook?
I have the G Drive usb.
I don't plan to use it back and forth between my mbp and mb.
I did the final back up for my mb now I wanna use it for my mbp.
How do I do it without having to delete its content?

This one (Hitachi) has partition tab
But when I click the g drive (whick is the name of the external drive) it has no partition tab
So I guess it's the Hitachi one?
However when I change the partition layout to 2 as below
when I click apply it says that it'll delete my data
How do I solve this?
I'm sorry I have to put pics as I don't know how to explain it

HP 7510 AIO printer won't stay connected - Wired workstation, wireless printer

Hi! I spoke (and checked solution button) too soon. The printer still "disappears" from the Wired XP network workstation. The only difference since applying the solution given is that the disconnects are now happening about every 12 hours, vs every couple of hours.
Ink notification is set to "only when I print"
Static IP is set for all machines
HNDU works -- when the printer is visible but will hang the workstation if printer is not visible.
Original comments follow below;
HP 7510 wireless printer disappears -- 4 station XP wireless network, w/ 1 PC hardwired.
Options
04-12-2012 03:59 PM
Printer: HP 7510
Network: multi-station wireless, thru DLink DI-632 (one PC hardwired to router)
Address Config:   Printer is using static IP -- outside of DCHP range (192.168.15.240)
Printer Config: Each computer has static IP set into the control panel app, using IP addressing.
Operating System: XP (Service Pack 3)
Other devices: Ipad, Xoom and Kindle Fire (all working using ePrint)
Network Security Protocol: WEP (we're out in the country)
Network Setup: Main router, along with 2 access ports (hardwired); currently using channels 1, 5 and 11 (again, we're in the country and have little competition for channels)
File Sharing: All machines in network have one open "share" drive, accessable with passwork.
Scenario: Wireless computers appear to stay connected for several days to a week at a time. (We reboot weekly, just as a SOP)
Computer that is wired to the network loses communication with the printer a couple of times a day and needs to be rebooted in order to restore connection.
When this happens, other machines continue to print and scan, with no problems, and the wired machine continues to have its name displayed in the SCANNING panel on the printer -- but the printer won't talk to it.   All network functions, including internet and intranet access to the printer's EWS is still available. I have noticed that if I go into check ink levels, though, that the ink check software behaves differently.
Normally in the ink status app, there is a small "working" icon with 6 dots. When this computer is connected properly, it will start jumping around the circle, showing activitiy, get to 41%, and then display the ink status info. When the printer/computer connection is not working, the "working" icon will go to just a couple of percent then jump to the printer information page, showing make, model, serial number, firmware level etc.
In every instance so far, rebooting (with no other action) brings the printer/computer connection back to life -- until next time. I am trying to find any other pattern for this behavior, just can't identify it yet.
I started out with the plain vanilla installation, but then every computer in the network would consistently drop connections, about every 45 minutes. Using the info on this forum, I've eliminated the drop-outs for those printers, and got to the Static IP solutions (we've done that anyway for years with net-ready machines). This is the last machine that "drops off" It appears that some piece of HP-required software is "dropping out" or getting clobbered, but I cannot see a pattern, even checking and noting the various software used locally on the machine, and the various websites visited. So far, no pattern.
I am hoping that an HP guru with access to the source for the "ink supply" status software can take a look at what is happening and why it will always go to 41% and then display ink status (when connected) and then only go a couple of percent and display the ink status (when it isn't connected).
Thanks, in advance,
jim
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jimzix
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Re: HP 7510 wireless printer disappears -- 4 station XP wireless network, w/ 1 PC hardwired.
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04-13-2012 01:48 PM
More info:
In last paragraph, above, the request for "ink status" is returned with a static display of the printer firmware version, driver version, step level, MAC# etc of the printer, not "ink status" when the printer is disconnected.
Also, when printer is disconnected the HP home networking utility will hang the system -- a hard reboot is required, which restores the printer, until the next time it goes "into the woods". Signal stregth, measured on the printer, is 4 bars (very good).
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007OHMSS
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Re: HP 7510 wireless printer disappears -- 4 station XP wireless network, w/ 1 PC hardwired.
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04-20-2012 09:30 AM
Not sure if this would help, some of the info could be pertinent:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c03149924&tmp_task=solveCategory&cc=us&dlc=en&la...
007OHMSS
I am a support engineer for HP.
If the advice resolved the situation, please mark it as a solution. Thank you.
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jimzix
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Re: HP 7510 wireless printer disappears -- 4 station XP wireless network, w/ 1 PC hardwired.
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04-22-2012 09:53 AM
Thanks! That appears to solve the problem. After your suggestion, I remembered that I set the "ink level warning" on this machine ONLY to "Always warn me", as opposed to "tell me only when I am printing". That seemed to be the problem. Only the computer that was set to "always warn on low ink-levels" was disconnecting -- the others worked fine! Now, all are working fine.
Just to be safe, though, I've also turned off the "scan from printer to computer" function on each computer. That was set for each machine, and seemed to work fine. The other machines in the network did not disconnect, and the printer was tracked whether each computer was on or off.   May try to turn it on later; I'll see if the family uses that feature very often!
Thank you for your help.
Jim
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Re: HP 7510 wireless printer disappears -- 4 station XP wireless network, w/ 1 PC hardwired.
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04-22-2012 03:56 PM
I spoke too soon! After about 26 hours, the printer connection on the one "hard-wired" CPU dropped, which is better than before, but still not solid. Same exact symptoms as before. Only piece of the puzzle that was different this time is about 50 pages were scanned, some to this computer. Used the "Scan requested from CPU" process, rather than enabling the "Scan TO Cpu" function in the software app. It did not drop the connection immediately after -- about 1 hour to 1.5 hours afterwards. Suspect this is a coincidence, not a cause of the problem with this machine.
I also scanned (same approach) from one other CPU on the network -- that wifi connection is still rock-solid.
Jim
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I think it is fixed now.....the problem seems to reside in the module that will notify you immediately if ink is low (vs notify me only when printing). If, when initially installed, the user selects "immediately", then the printer will randomly disappear. (More on "re-finding it" later.)
Also, it is difficult to change the ink notification setting, because it appears not to be "sticky", but will sometimes, flip. (I've not figured this out yet). As long as the setting for "low ink notification" is on "only when printing", life is good.
If the printer does disappear, go over to the Advanced tab when the printer software/firmware page comes up, instead of the current ink levels. Reset the selection about "tell me about ink notification" to "only when printing", and then toggle the "autoshut off" from "NEVER" to "2 hours" and then, finally, back to "NEVER". Then, lastly, press closed on the panel. Printer should be connected again. To test, go to the Photosmart 7510 app again, and select "Show estimated ink levels". The counter will start at 1%, jump to 41% and then bounce around until it displays the ink level.
FOR HP TECH: Please consider making the "ink level notification" persistent in the registry OR provide a de-install tool that will completely clean all traces of the prior installation of the 7510 driver / app in the registry, so that a new install may have this setting saved correctly.
Hope this helps some of you -- it's an excellent printer once its running!
jim

I was migrating from a 3gs to the 4s. Big mistake. Have lost contacts and access to music and apps.

I was migrating from a 3gs to the 4s. Having never upgraded the IOS before, I thought that I should do that before handed the phone down to my daughter to replace her broken 3g. Big mistake. Even using Google sync for my contacts, following instruction from the Google webpage (ambiguous: cancel or not when error message is displayed?) the contacts did not sync to gmail. iTunes says it will sync contacts, but doesn't from the phone, only from the few that were in my old Gmail account. The iCloud set up asks for email and a new password- not specifying that you should use your old email and password for your old iTunes account or your phone will be instantly locked out of those apps and tunes stored there. The web info says you can't merge accounts or passwords, so, I bet I have to cancel the new set up and start over with the old password if it will even let me. I've spent 8 hrs reading, syncing, et c., on this! It will be a long time before I casually buy a new phone from them! I wonder how much time it will take to switch from the 3GS to the 4S? I now have a 3GS without contacts, no way to get the data from those files back, and can't get the apps to it or the 4S until Apple support helps fix the double identity problem.
Considering that I had verbal instructions from the Apple store prior to the IOS upgrade, reviewed all the details on line, I think this process is woefully lacking in clarity and transparency. The local ATT branch offered nothing except backing up to avoid loss of contacts if both phones were taken to the store, but not any help with the IOS or iTunes content. Cable internet for the 3GS backup and IOS 5 upgrade seemed to take about 2 hours. At least calender, notes, etc. were done correctly and 2500 picture and videos were not removed.

After the last post,I went to the local ATT for some feedback. The manager there, Stephen, was helpful and spent a long time, even after i had gotten the abbreviated list of contacts I had constructed from the 3GS to the 4S by an iTunes sync with the correct options selected. This however, would not sync notes. I took screen pix of my many stock symbols for future reference, and got them to transfer with Bump (as photos, in case I want to refresh my memory on some of the symbols added previously). I emailed myself copies of 28 notes i did not want to lose, because the iCloud back up would not initially work. After what seemed like years, I finally was able to get it working, following repeated refusal to Merge because of "not enough space available" @5GB even though everything was turned off except contacts and calendar.
My old phone is finally backed up to the cloud after I turned off location service on new phone, and a bunch of apps and photo data showed up for the first time, as icons to be turned off on the old phone in the Manage Storage window. It said it was going to back up 8 GB of photos when the photo backup had been turned off on the prior screen. (The screws are loose, and the worm has turned on this software at Apple.)
Backup for notes, a few contacts, and calendar, over high speed wifi, took 25 minutes to complete without photos.
I have never seen anything this troublesome in the Apple OS!
You will need to set your own Apple ID and a .me email ID if you want to use the cloud. My recommendation and that of the store manager for the first time is don't back up any photos, let it erase the photo stream if it wants to. The camera roll should be ok.
Backing up to the iCloud removed all my stocks from the old phone! It wasn't supposed to. Be sure to select leave data on phone at every opportunity- even so, there they went. It did not remove contacts or calendar when backing up, though the IOS 5 upgrade had lost my years of contacts since I had not specified that they should be saved when I hit the simple sync in iTunes the first time and since Googlesync failed to connect properly for me over wifi as noted above.
All in all it appears nothing is going to clone your phone or preserve all the data through a IOS 4.x to 5 migration, though I did not do it right the first time with iTunes, and complicated matters by starting with a new ID instead of my old iTunes account and password, living in a small town, away from any Apple store, though if you can't be there at an Apple store with both phones in hand, they probably can't help much unless they walk you through each option in iTunes and you are very attentive. The store genius I saw did not do this, though I had yet to order the phone at that point.
Good Luck!
Message was edited by: richardfromel dorado

MSI X48C Platinum OC setting from DDR1200 to DDR1600

I'm finally back. I got depressed about that last attempt with my X48C Platinum setup with Corsair XMS3 1600 MHz.
The problem was that MemTest checked it out fine, but I was getting lock-ups. On retesting errors would only be reported on the 10th pass --- which took some time to find out. Everything sat on the shelf and I was the butt of many jokes with my MSI board.
I've popped for some Mushkin DDR3 1600 MHz and am just burning it in @ DDR1200.
MemTest is reporting RAM bandwidth @ 5,211 MB/s which is acceptable, however I'd like to see a stable performance around 5,800 MB/s.
This Mushkin is 9-9-9-24.
What I'm having trouble with now is the OC setting to get even a single pass with this Mushkin.
Could you guys help out with some simple, straightforward tweaks necessary for the BIOS for running this RAM @ DDR1600 ?
Thanks a bunch.
Klaus.s

I just received a hand-delivered letter from my MOM, and she says I should include some more information.
So here goes.
CPU = x9770 @ 3.20 GHz
BIOS = 7.4 12082009
RAM = 4096 or 2x 2048
Advanced = MPS 1.4
CPU = Virtualization Technology = Enabled (VMM can utilize additional HW caps) [I don't know what this is or if it's a good thing for stable performance]
CPU = Execute Bit Support = Disabled (Force XD feature flag to always return 0) [I don't know what this is or if it's a good thing for stable performance]
CPU = Set Limit CPUID MAXVAL to 3 = Disabled (Some OS's cannot handle >3) [I'm going to install Win.XP.Pro.32-bit]
Chipset = HPET = Disabled [I don't what this is, or if it's a good thing for stable performance]
Chipset = DRAM = Non-ECC (Options are ECC or Non-ECC) [I'm kind of onto this. ECC is for 24x7 service such as web-servers that don't have the option for re-boots, and does a constant hot-sector swap/test thingy to ensure constant CRC checks or some-such, right ?]
Chipset = Ative State Power Management = Disabled (PCI-E L0 & L1 Link Power state) [I don't know what this is or if it's a good thing for stable performance for my NVidia GeForce GTX 295 -- just one]
Trusted Computing = TCG/TPM Support = NO (Enable/Disable TCG (TPM 1.1/1.2) [I'm sorry. I don't know what this is or if it's a good thing for stable performance. I've got about 3 other books that'd be nice to read in the sun between some gaming, but it'd be kind of nice if there was a nice little reference material in the User Manual instead of having to go to Google for every little thing that may or may not be relevant, especially in some kind of priority ---- as in is this something that is on the front burner and I should turn it on to get some water boiling, or should I just let this simmer on the back burner because it's not really all that relevant and other settings are going to demand attention now for immediate results. I hope you can get my simple point.]
H/W Monitor CPU = 38
H/W Monitor System = 31
H/W Monitor CPU fan = 1915 [seems a little fast, but maybe after I get everything else tweaked I'll come back to this & turn this down somehow]
H/W Monitor CPU = 1.272 - 1.280v
H/W Monitor 3.3v = 3.328
H/W Monitor 5v = 4.961
H/W Monitor 12v = 12.144 - 12.232
H/W Monitor 5v SB = 4.992
H/W Monitor Icore = 16.xxx - 29.xxx A
H/W Monitor I 12v = 1.983 -3.320 A
H/W Monitor 51 - 156% [Well it seems like the voltages are nice & tight. Where I have put the "-" is because the values flicker around. My science teacher would love to have a fit over this, where the decimal is reported to 3 places, but the value in the 1st place would be all that is required, or worse. Anyhow, at least there are no sparks flashing up or smoke bellowing out.]
CELL MENU = DOT = Disabled [I'm sorry, yet another of many acronyms that I'm not familiar with. I guess I'm going to need a link to some FAQ that wasn't available when the manual was being printed. Sure wouldn't mind though. It just seems that what is required on my part, isn't just the money to buy all this 'stuff' but the time to invest in sorting through a lot of reading, studying and experimenting. Sure would be nice to just click on DRAM Frequency = 1600 MHz, and all the associated voltages and whatnot sync to match what is required. Maybe I could take this experience and start writing some comic books or something.]
CELL MENUS = Intel EIST = Disabled (GV3 Technology) [I'm sorry, just another item in the don't know what this is, never seen it before, don't have it on the other Quad core motherboard, and have at least the modicum of a clue that it might just be relevant to know more about this. I'm looking forward to reading the forthcoming links.]
CELL MENU = CPU FSB = 400 (200 - 800) [Wow. This'd be nice to crank up, but am I simply going to get a constant series of black screens, and then have to press the CLR button on the back of the board, and have to re-enter all the values in the BIOS all over again. Now this would be some valuable information to know just the range of possibilities, instead of poking around in the dark for endless hours. Ranges can be good, but maybe just a hint of practical ranges would be just that much better.]
CELL MENU = CPU Ratio = 8 [Now this is one that I've fiddled around with quite a bit, and the ratio on the MoBo goes all the way to 60, but I have had the guts to save this value on an exit to boot. With the rocking CPU, I'm sure I can get nosebleeds, but just what that ratio is, well, that would be nice to know a practical value that won't cause black screens or a lump of pins that winds up on the top of the lava-lamp for topical discussion.]
CELL MENU = Advanced DRAM = By SPD = Enabled [This Muskin is supposed to be some honking RAM, so maybe it's best to leave the chips sort this out for now, but then maybe again, just maybe there are some practical values to insert here that are realistic and more functional than what has been pre-programmed into inert silicon & gold. Right now I simply do not find it within the grey matter between by ears at this moment. Not in the User Manual either.]
CELL MENU = Advanced DRAM = MCH Read Delay (tPD) = Auto (Other choices 4 - 15) [Now I sense that this might be close to the 9-9-9-18 ratings, however I'm not brave enough to just set this to 9. There seems just too many other settings what with the voltages etc to know just what practical options would be viable, again, without a lot of time to experiment.]
CELL MENU = Advanced DRAM = 1N/2N = Augo (Other choices 1N & 2N) [Seems like something associated with latency, just that I don't know what is practical & viable.]
CELL MENU = FSB/MEMORY Ratio = Auto (Other choices are 1.20, 1.60, 2.00, 1.00, 1.33) [Well I do like a short list of options. What would be nice to understand here in chart like form, is what kind of CPU ratios, RAM speeds, FSB speeds & FSB/RAM ratios are viable. I've seen these done nicely in review forums or magazines where people are paid by the hour or month to sit with just one motherboard, or maybe get the info from the Engineers that tested the MoBo, and actually print that practical performance chart in the User Manual. Then I could use this handy guide to follow the edges of practical options and know that I'm going to get a viable result and start putting all this hardware to use instead of idling while I'm in the BIOS on this MoBo, while I'm using another computer to browse the Internet with a lot of my time that I'd rather see invested in actual entertainment. It isn't that I don't like the guys that provide such valuable handy practical advice here, but seeing that crowd of animated emoticons staring back at me, I'm beginning to feel like some character out of "Waking Life" not knowing if I'm creating some sort of animated dis-reality. If you haven't seen "Waking Life" it's a thought provoker right up there with the original "Matrix," and was my first exposure to Alex Jones -- he does a marvelous job of driving around in that convertible car that can drive through water.]
CELL MENU = Adjusted DRAM Frequency = 1200 [this is greyed out. at least it can run at this speed with a lame no-brainer BIOS effort. I guess this is the experience that F1 driving teams go through. My MOM could probably drive one of those @ 160 MPH with my dead, planted in the ground DAD as a mechanic, but to get 240 MPH requires a truck load of information, experienced techies, loads of time, trial, trial, trial, trial & more trial. But hay, at least next year I can say when someone asks about all these BIOS settings that I can't remember what they were other than to leave them alone -- they worked to get it running -- and fiddling with them anymore isn't going to do anyone any good. When Charlton Heston returns in the future to this planet overrun with talking apes, they too can pick this up in wonder and won't know any more that I will next year.]
CELL MENU = Auto Disable DIMM/PCI Frequency = Enabled [This one confuses me, because I thought that the FSB has the RAM, the CPU & maybe even the video card, and managed by the 'HUB' maybe the SB, but I keep mixing the SB & the NB, but one of these. Then the one 'HUB' communicates to the other 'HUB' which handles the PCI slots, the SATA drives, LAN, sound, PS/2 ports, USB and I guess the eSATA port. So wouldn't it be best to just leave alone the PCI frequency because all those devices can so easily start to loose track of the triggering voltages & start mixing up the '0'-bits from the '1'-bits and lock up? Well, I suppose that's coming up with those magical URL links. My brain could use a bit of exercise, just that I wasn't expecting this much mental activity before the fun began.]
ANYhoo.... I hope this exercise will drag me kicking & screaming just a little bit closer, not to the doll that wants to take me dancing, but to the games that I have waiting on the DVD's, and be able to drag some arrogant friends over to drool over the frame rate count & response, especially with the up times & lack or roar of noisy fans .... but maybe I'm projecting too much out of this digital hobby. Maybe I'll get a hint of my future out of this experience.
Thanks for taking the time to follow my escapade to tweak the DRAM frequency form 1200 MHz to 1600 MHz, get that FSB up a bit, and see what this Quad-Core can handle for a CPU Ratio without cooking the whole combination into non-existence.

T400 - Video problems and a long wait for repair...

Hi,
I'd just like to state my experience with Lenovo Customer Support for a video problem with my T400. Bottom line, as of today, it's been around 27 business days that it's been with Lenovo, and 41 days total since it's failed on me, and nobody, including Lenovo Customer Support, seems to know what its status is exactly, except that they're waiting on a part which has no ETA.
In July 2009, I bought a T400, a 2764CTO version with the switchable graphics between the internal intel graphics and the ATI GPU.
All was well until February 1st, 2010, when the LCD sudden wouldn't work. Well, it would work, but the screen was very very dim, even with the display maxed out on brightness. You would have literally bring your nose to the screen in order to even make out any text or images - definitely unusable. However, if you hooked up an external monitor via the video output, the T400 would display video output properly that way. When I did this, I noticed that the switchable graphics option wasn't there any more - couldn't switch to the ATI GPU. Based on this, I figured it must be a video card or LCD issue, or a combination of both.
So, I called Lenovo Customer Support (CS) at 1-800-565-3344, since I'm up here in Canada, and I initially was issued a case number of 41JRFSD, and I agreed to send it to a local Lenovo Repair Centre. Oops, my bad, I made a mistake using the locator tool I was told to use at bplocator.lenovo.com, and thought the Centre was relatively close. Not quite. So, I called Lenovo CS again, and they issued me with a new case number, 40KWSYF, and said they'd send a box for return to depot. And within 2 days, Feb 2nd or 3rd, I got a Purolator courier return box. That's fast service! Pleased, I put my T400 in according to instructions, and I sent it off.
Fast forward to about mid-February. I called Lenovo CS, and apparently there was a delay - the depot needed a part that wasn't in stock. Fine, I know these things can happen - I'll wait.
Fast forward to March 1st. I talk to a Lenovo CS rep, and it appears that the part needed has arrived, and they've put a rush order to get the computer back to me. Great!
Fast forward to March 8th, still no computer. I talk to another Lenovo CS rep... strange, there's no update. The issue gets escalated to the Depot managers.
Fast forward to March 12th. Still no word on my T400's status. An email fron CS has been sent to the depot. Not even the CS reps know what's going on. The rep I talk to figures there should be a response by the end of the day.
Fast forward to today, March 13th, 4:50pm Pacific Time. I just finish talking to Lenovo CS, there's been no response from the depot. Apparently there's a part that they're waiting on for repairs, but there's no ETA on it. Is it the same part that I've waiting on all this time? Is it a new one? I don't know.
At this point, I've been told to send an email explaining my situation, and I've also been told to talk to Scott the next time I call CS on Monday after 3pm Eastern. I have to stress that the Lenovo Customer Support Reps I've talked to have all been very sympathetic and have been courteous, helpful, and professional - something I appreciate from having worked in Customer Support myself. But the bottom line remains: my computer's not back to me.
So, my questions to the community here: is my experience here typical? Is there any hope of my seeing my computer back, or even at least just the hard drive? I've used Lenovo computers for work for the past 7 years, and it was my good work experiences that led me to buying a Lenovo for home use. However, it's been a while since I've been without my T400, and I was hoping to get my taxes done on the computer too, since they're due at the end of March. I'll reserve judgement on Lenovo until I get my computer back, but at this point, all I can say is... I'm disappointed.
If you're reading this, I'll let you judge my experience for youself. I'll update my case as it progresses.
Thanks!
Moderator edit: Removed support contact private information, per the Community Rules.

Hi all,
So, an update with some good news: my computer is finally back!
After a total of over 40 business days (just over 2 months) I finally have my T400 back at home, working again!
According to the spec sheets, the repair depot had to replace: the systemboard/planar, display/LCD panel, LCD cable, PC card, bluetooth, and the inverter. BIOS/Embedded controller was also updated, along with the regular diagnostics to ensure everything was working properly.
I give Lenovo credit though: they got the final parts to repair the computer on Monday, April 5th, and shipped my computer back to me for the next day (today, April 6th). That's fast service, once repaired!
However, my case spans over 4 screens of updates and repair depot orders of parts.
Also, it took me over 10 calls to Lenovo's Customer Service, plus an escalation to a higher-level manager after 1 month had passed, to get progress updates and ETAs for repair.
Lenovo called me only once to give me an update, and that was the manager whom my issue was escalated to: all the other times, I called Lenovo for an update.
The story doesn't end here, however:
In talking to Customer Support, they told me that Sales might be able to sell me an extended warranty at a discount, given the issues I had. And indeed, after talking to Sales, they offered me a 1 year warranty extension at a price of just over $100 CDN, plus tax. This is a sale price, compared to the regular retail of $129. Unfortunately, they can't sell me just one month.
At this point, I refused their offer, and again escalated to a manager to request an extension of exactly 1 month on my existing warranty. I figure 1 month delay in repairs, that's plausible - crap happens, and while most repairs take 5-10 business days, I can understand it can sometimes go higher. Two months though.... My request for a warranty extension is being considered by the manager it was escalated to.
So, one last question for you folks reading this: am I being unreasonable, talking to Lenovo support one more time to request a 1 month extension of my warranty, given the length of time it's taken for repairs? I'll post the response Lenovo will give me tomorrow, as they've said they'll do.
One thing for sure: Lenovo's response will definitely influence my choice of brand from whom to buy a new computer (and it will influence the choice of my friends who've heard my issues, and maybe yours too). My particular repair problem may not come up often, but if it does happen to you, I'd be happy to know of your experience.
Thanks for sticking with me through the drama!

Mid-2010 27" iMac very slow, even after clean OS install - HELP!

Good afternoon guys, I'm hoping someone can offer me some advice.
I bought my Mid-2010 27" iMac in May-ish 2011. Everything was brilliant, I couldn't believe the ease of use, and especially the start up speed, coming from a world of PCs. My iMac was used almost every day, for web browsing, photo editing, etc.
Maybe about April / May this year it started becoming very slow, slow to boot, slow to respond to mouse clicks, slow to do anything. Since I'd used about 750GB of my HDD (mainly photos), I decided I would archive some and hope that would ease the congestion. As my photos were stored in Aperture, it took about 3 days to export them all to my external HDD, 3 days of the iMac only getting so far, switching itself off, then me finally getting it to come back on (I was getting messages about Kernals, etc. now and again through boot too) - it finally backed up my photos I have from my daughters first year.
Great news, but I still had probably 400GB / 500GB of photos from her second year and any other photos I'd taken. I found the root of my Aperture directory, and managed to pull these images off, so everything is now backed up.
I decided I should try and clean install, and managed to get the HDD to boot and choose the option to re-install from Apple's Servers. All installed OK, and we're good to go! Fired up the iMac, and although it's fractionally quicker to respond, and a lot more stable, it's not quite right. And I've lost all my iLife Apps which originally came with the iMac.
Does this sound like a HDD issue? As I say, it was on quite a lot through the backup procedure, and I had set it (maybe stupidly looking back now) to never sleep, and for the monitor to only switch off after 3 hours. Or does it sound like something more is wrong with it?
I am quite confident of working with PCs, so would manage to replace the HDD I think, looking at some videos, etc. online. I did upgrade the RAM to 16GB, and that was simple enough. My question is, when you replace the HDD, how does it know where to look to the Apple Servers for the clean OS install? Or do I have to do something to let it know where to look first? I have to point out I don't have any Time Machine backup, etc. as the iMac was just not stable enough to get this in place - and up until that point, again probably stupid now looking back, I had never bothered to set up.
Any help / advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated. At the moment I have totally fallen out of love with the iMac, for something to cost £1,500+ and only last 3 years, where my last build PC lasted Approx 8 years for half the price, is very disappointing.
Thanks in advance,
Col

Just suggesting things right off the bat here-
To me it sounds as though the HDD is failing, if your iMac shipped with a Seagate drive try entering your serial number to see if Apple will replace it:http://www.apple.com/au/support/imac-harddrive/
Or try running Apple Hardware Test a few times back to see if it is a hardware error.
As for the iLife apps they should've come on one of the install discs that shipped with your mac.
If your iMac is ineligible for the program above I would consider replacing it yourself with either an SSD or HDD, as for recognising apples servers for download, you will need the original install discs that came with your computer or if you haven't already it will need a firmware update to enable internet recovery
See here:Computers that can be upgraded to use OS X Internet Recovery
Good Luck!

Simple button trick ?!

Hi there, let's say i have to make a button and when I press
it a rectangle will appear next to it.
So, I create a new button, I make a new frame key in the
"down state" of the button and create there a rectangle.
Sounds good? But when I press the button -> the rectangle
appears, then I release the button--> the rectangle disappears.
My question is how could this rectangle stay there without
disappearing even when I release the button!
Should I create a new key frame with my button and the
rectangle and make my button point to this frame when pressed? Or
is it a better way?

If you are not comfortable with Actionscript then the best
method for you to do this would be to create a new keyframe and
point the button there.
The "better" way would be to do it with code. Something
like......
myBtn.onPress = function(){
var rectMC:MovieClip =
_root.createEmptyMovieClip("myRect",_root.getNextHighestDepth());
rectMC.beginFill(0x000000,100);
rectMC.moveTo(0,0);
rectMC.lineTo(this._width,0);
rectMC.lineTo(this._width,this._height);
rectMC.lineTo(0,this._height);
rectMC.lineTo(0,0);
rectMC.endFill();
rectMC._x = this._x + this._width;
rectMC._y = this._y;
This code goes in the frame actions. The gist of it is this:
When I press the button with the instance name "myBtn" create
a new movie clip on the root level with the name "myRect" at the
next highest depth. Then draw a rectangle into the new movie clip.
beginFill(0x000000,100) starts the fill for the movie clip - black,
100 alpha. moveTo(0,0) initializes the drawing point. The next line
initializes the stroke for the rectangle - 1 px thickness, medium
gray, 100 alpha. The next 4 lines actually draw the rectangle
sides. rectMC.lineTo(this._width,0); draws a line from 0,0 to the
width of the button,0. Next we go down from that width to the
height of the button, then back across the bottom, and finally back
to 0,0 to finish the rectangle. Finally, the code moves the
rectangle movie clip to the point that is flush with the right side
of the button.
This is considered "better" because you can reuse this code
wherever you want to, and you can add conditions to it to add, say,
more rectangles to the stage after the first is drawn.

Finalized Back up lingers

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