For my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints?

for my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints? I would like to have the best setting so when i print out the photos,i do not need to crop or trim. It is close, but i feel it can be better.

The bad news is that you can't do anything in camera to get that result. The good news is that once you understand the possibilities you'll appreciate being able to control how your prints get framed (cropped). Your camera produces images in a 3:4 ratio while a 4 X 6 is a 2:3 ratio so if you don't know in advance that you need to crop some from the top, bottom, or both to make your image fit the 2:3 ratio & frame too tightly when taking the photo you're in trouble. Learn to shoot in a way that allows cropping to match common print sizes, and find a simple editing program to crop in computer. This should be standard practice because even though you may want a 4 X 6 now down the road you might want a 5 X 7 so keep your options open.
If you don't have an editing program that easily does this & you're on a PC download Picasa which is an excellent program for this & it's free. Once you have it running select one of your existing photos, select "crop" from the menues on the first tab & then play around with the different options Picasa has built in to see the effects to your image. NOTE that it won't throw away the data outside the crop box even though it may look like it has. You always have the option to "undo crop". Once you get a result you like you "export" & create a new file cropped as seen on screen WITHOUT modifying the original file.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Similar Messages

How do I enter owners name on a Power Shot S5 IS camera?

Hi
I have recently purchased a Power Shot S5 IS camera. I would like to know how I go about entering my name into the camera so that it EXIF information lists my name as the "Owner Name". At present that information is blank.
Any help that can be provided will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Cheers
Don .
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Connect your camera via USB, power it up, and launch "Camera Window"
In the upper-right corner there's an icon which resembles a gear (just left of the "?" icon in the extreme upper right corner). Click it. This opens the preferences window.
There are three icons across the top of the preferences window. The third icon is labeled "Camera". Click the camer icon.
There are two tabs on this screen. They are labeled "Information" and "Set". Click the tab labled "Set".
The top box on this page is for the "Owner's Name". There is an "Edit" button to the right. Clicking the "Edit" button makes the field editable.
Type in your name.
Press the "Set" button (previous this button said "Edit") to save your changes.
There is also a box for "Author" and "Copyright Info" -- you can set messages in these boxes as well as they'll become part of the image EXIF data.
Press the "Ok" button (bottom right corner) to save and dismiss the window.
Back on the main window for the "CameraWindow" utility a banner across the top will list the camera model, firmware version, and owners name. You should see your name listed in there.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Best camera settings for youtube videos

What settings should I shoot video at in order to get the best youtube output? My choices are 1920x1080-30; 1920x1080-24; 1280x720-60; 640x480-60; crop-640-60
I'm wondering if it's better to compress a high quaility video, or can I shoot at low quality and get the same results?
I have a Canon 60D and CS4 master collection with Premiere Pro and Encore.

Use the preset under H.264 and set the framerate the same as your footage.
Do a little experimenting, you dont have to upload the whole movie, couple of minutes is enough.
HD footage can be upload as HD so why go for low.

Canon power shot A540 digital camera

my rear viewing screen has gone blank! Everything else seems to be working properly,menu display,etc. Cant see on screen what I'm aiming camera at. Is this a improper setting or is camera broke? Any suggestions? Maybe someone could tell me where to take camera to have it checked out.

Hey jslem,
If there was a problem with the LCD screen itself you would not be able to see the menus. It could be how you have the camera set up, but without knowing what camera you have I just can't say. I would have the camera looked at by a digital imaging expert in a Best Buy® store, and if they determine that the camera needs to be repaired I would bring it to the Geek Squad® in the store and they can send it out to be serviced. If the camera is less than a year old it most likely is covered by a manufacturer's warranty, and the repair would be free unless it is determined that there is damage to the camera. If you want me to try and troubleshoot the camera just send me a private message, and I'll do my best!
Allan
Community Connector
Best Buy® Corporate
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Power Shot SX260HS Digital Camera Solution Disk will not install on my computer.

Following the on screen instructions, after verifying the device, the software begins to install then a pop up screen comes on that says "a program needs my permission to continue" and after I click "continue" the software stops installing and a pop up screen comes up that says "unkown install errror" and it will not continue to install. It seems that the first pop up interferes with the installation but I do not know how to override that. Please help. Thank you

Hi espring453,
The window that pops up asking for permission is called the User Account Control. If it is interfering with the installation, it will need to be fixed or disabled. Microsoft can help you with this, but you will need to contact them directly. They also have an article on their website about turning this feature on and off. Please refer to the link below:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/turn-user-account-control-on-off#1TC=windows-7
This didn't answer your question or issue? Find more help at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Best lens/settings for outdoor shots (high contrast) with 6D?

I have a 6D I'm just getting started with. When I get a perfect shot (perfect lighting, color saturation, depth of field, etc), I LOVE it! The trouble is, I'm not getting enough of them. Not capturing what my eye sees with good repeatablilty. I have the following lenses for it: The 70-300mm zoom that came with it; a 24-105mm; a 17-40mm ultra wide angle; and a 50mm 1.4 fixed (dumb impulse purchase that I haven't found too useful). I am planning a trip to our tulip festival, and there will be loads of colors and likely high contrast as it will be a mostly sunny day with some clouds. PERFECT, right? Except I find that many times, particularly on my full auto settings, I am not getting the exposures I want! The photos often turn out kinda washed out, without the full saturation I want. And sadly, I'm just not able to compensate for that with the photo editing software I have. As I said, I'm just a beginner and don't want to lug around a manual with me to read while trying to get a good shot, so...anyone have any quick and dirty advice for which of my lenses will be the best to use for distance vs closeup of the flowers, and what settings to use with it? Full auto vs A, AV, or full manual? And if I use full manual, what priority do I want to get the best saturation? Urgh, I hope this isn't too crazy wide-open of a question to be able to get good helpful responses, it's hard to know what to ask. I just want to get some really good, color-rich, good depth and texture photos without a lot of thinking, lol. Thanks! PS-- I'm thinking of selling my 50mm and maybe one of my other ones to get a different one with better ranges. Any suggestions? I tend to do a lot of wildlife and landscapes, if that's any help, and find sometimes that the 300mm doesn't cut it.
Thanks again!

FIrst of all, it takes time to learn how to use a complex camera system well, so don't beat up on yourself a lot or give up on the gear you already have too quickly. Keep taking lots of photos, analyzing them and how you might have made them better. All cameras and lenses have their ideal uses and limits, it's just a matter of learning them and there's no substitute for experience. Get the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson and read it, study it, learn it. That's the best single book every semi-serious to serious photographer who wants to improve their skills should read.... Might turn out to be the best $18 you ever spend on your photography.
The various exposure modes each have their uses. I see some people suggest using M (manual) only... but that's slower and limiting and there are times it will prevent you from "getting the shot". Av (aperture priority), Tv (shutter priority) and even P (program) all have their uses. I like to set my camera to M and forget it, but that's really only possible when lighting is very steady and consistent or I have time to carefully set up each shot.
Much of the time I have to use Av or Tv because of variable lighting conditions. This can be because of intermittent clouds changing the intensity of light itself, or because I'm trying to capture shots of a subject that's moving in and out of different lighting. I tend to use Program when I just need a quick shot in different light than I've been working, and don't have time to calculate my exposure and am not very concerned about depth of field (aperture) or freezing or blurring subject movement (shutter speed). All three of these auto exposure modes (as Canon calls them) require experience with and knowledge of how subject tonality effects the camera's reflective metering system and how to use Exposure Compensation to correct for it.
There's a "tool" built right into your camera that can help you learn about the exposure controls and how your choices with them effect your images.... On the top dial there's a "CA" setting, which is a great learning tool that will give you feedback on the LCD screen about your settings. This might take the place of carrying around the manual and consulting it before each shot. Try it!
Personally I don't use the "SCN" or "Green Box/A+" modes, both of which are super auto exposure... That dictate a lot more camera settings than just exposure. These also limit focus modes, file types, color rendition, and more. Av, Tv, P are plenty of automation for me.
A lot of your questions seem to be about lighting. If you ever watch a movie being shot or a pro making still portraits or macro shots, you are likely to see them using some sort of light modifiers.... reflectors to "bounce" more light onto a subject, fill flash to open up shadows, flags to block light, diffusers to reduce contrast and more. Monte Zucker was a master portrait photographer who specialized in available light (no flash) and made use of what he found on location and modifiers such as these... even invented a few of them. These are tools that you might use, or you can learn to look for similarly "ideal" lighting that's naturally occuring and will give you the effects you want. For example, if shooting close-ups and macro shots of flowers, insects and such, I often look for light shade to work in... or pray for a moderately overcast day (all too rare here in Calif.). Same can be done with portraits and many other types of photography.
To get great color in your images, you should get set up for and learn to do a Custom White Balance. This will insure optimal color in a wide variety of situations. Auto White Balance is very usable, especially in full sun. However, shade or indoors/artificial lighting comes in a wide spectrum of colors and can challenge AWB, or you might prefer it be rendered differently than the auto mode will do. There are a bunch of "preset" White Balance you might use - flash, tungsten, shade, etc. - but setting a Custom WB can very often give more accurate results. There are WB targets (usually white or neutral gray) that can be used to quickly set up a Custom WB simply by taking a test shot and telling the camera "this is what you should use" to set WB. There are even "warm cards", which are lightly tinted to cause slight bias toward a little warmer looking image, or in some cases cooler.
Shooting digitally, a lot of what you want to do can be, or might would even be better accomplished in post-processing..., i.e. at your computer at home. Today with digital photography we all are essentially our own "photo labs", too. More to learn, I'm afraid. There are various image editing and optimization softwares, as well as very helpful things like graphics quality computer monitors and calibration devices. It's hard to take your images to their "best" without some additional "development" at your computer. Shoot RAW for the maximum ability to make adjusments to your images in post-processing. This includes the ability to change White Balance quite freely. But a RAW file is sort of like a negative from the days of film... taking the shot is just the first step, the post-processing is necessary and an important part of creating the final image. (Note: Shooting RAW + JPEG is a good learning tool.... once you can make finished images from your RAW files that are better than JPEGs it's producing itself, you can stop shooting JPEGs at all.)
Sorry, but you aren't going to be able to do this "without a lot of thinking"
However, over time you will find that working with your camera and lenses... as well as everything else that's part of the process... becomes easier and eventually a lot of it will be second-nature. You'll need to do a lot of practice and study at first... and may feel overwhelmed at times. But gradually and eventually you'll realize that you know exactly what to do to get the images you want in many different situations. Don't be too quick to change or add more gear, because that just means starting some of the learning process over again.
With respect to wildlife photography, yes a 300mm lens on a 6D may not be enough reach a lot of the time. You have several possible solutions: get a longer focal length lens (Canon 400/5.6L is reasonably priced and quite good, but lacks IS so plan on using a tripod or at least a monopod... Canon 500/4L IS is fantastic, but pretty expensive and quite large... think "tripod only").... Or, get a crop sensor camera (70D for example) to complement your full frame camera. The 300mm will "act like" a longer focal length, when used on a crop sensor camera.
Be warned, though, small wildlife, birds and such, there is no such thing as a "long enough" telephoto. If you have 300mm, you'll want 400mm.... But once you get that 400mm, you'll want a 500mm, etc., etc. Eventually the lenses get very pricey and large, hard to hold steady and even shooting through a lot of atmosphere will reduce image quality. So other solutions you'll probably want to learn inlude stalking skills, use of blinds, calls, decoys, baits to bring subjects closer.
A lot of patience is needed too. There are times the subject is just too far away and all you can do is sit back and enjoy the show, hoping they'll come closer. Sometimes I've spent weeks or even months acclimating animals to allow me to approach close enough to get the shots I want (Canon EF 135/2L lens on Canon 7D)...
Other times I've found locations where the critters are already relatively accustomed to people and will let me get close (EF 300/4 IS USM lens on 7D)...
Hunger sometimes outweighs shyness and fear, too (EF 300/4L IS USM on 7D)...
While some wildlife could care less about you and may even give you repeated opportunities to get a good shot of them (EF 300/4L IS USM lens on 5D MkII)...
Hope this helps!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Where can I find the instructional manuel for Power shot A1100 camera.

Where can I find the instructional manuel for Power shot A1100 camera.

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/6/0300001856/01/PSA1100IS_CUG_EN.pdf

Need owner's manual for Canon Power Shot ELPH 115 IS camera

Need owner's manual for Canon Power Shot ELPH 115 IS camera

You can find that right here: http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/digital_cameras/powershot_elph_115_is#Brochu...
On the Canon website...Canon has lots of good information there on your model !

My airmac no longer finds cameras. Will find iphone, but no longer photos either. My Canon Power Shots, old and new, are as good as rocks.

Recently my MacBook Air does not list devices that are cameras. It used to, but does not now. I have recently a) used MacKeeper, b) deleted movies, photos (thousands of those spawning ones) for space, c) installed ios 7 on my iphone, d) bought a Canon Power Shot SX 170is.
Image Capture, Image Browser EX, iphoto--nothing gets photos...nothing sees photos residing on my Canon PowerShots (old and new) or my iphone. Macbook Air can not find cameras.
Help. All cameras are rocks now.

MacKeeper is considered Malwear and has destroyed many iPhoto libraries - read the user tip on it - https://discussions.apple.com/community/ilife/iphoto?view=documents - my best guess is that your problem was caused by MacKeeper - I suggest you remove it according to the instructions in that user tip
to test depress the option key and launch iphoto - create a new library and see if it works correctly with your cameras - post back with the results
LN

What is the best camera for me?

I don't know much at all about cameras, so I'm really hoping someone will be able to help me! I'm looking for a camera that's better than your standard point and shoot digital camera but one that doesn't cost a fortune. I want to be able to take pictures of NASCAR cars going down the track without them being blurry. I would also like to be able to take pictures of things that are sitting still or aren't going quite 200 mph. I guess I just want an all around good camera that also has the ability to take good, non-blurry pictures of NASCAR cars in motion. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the best camera and/or lense would be for this. Thanks so much for your help!

This is one instance where good gear helps but knowing how to use it properly is more important. Panning skills will be important, & so will choosing the right focal length of lens. I'll assume you have to shoot from the stands but don't know how far you'll be from the stretch of track you're hoping to shoot the cars along. A camera with a good AF system matched to a lens with fast AF capabilities will help too, but you could do this old school & use manual settings & manual focus too. You would set up the camera based on the lighting favoring a Tv that can freeze the car but blur the background & wheels / tires. Then you pick an ISO to allow shooting in the f8 range at that Tv & pre focus on the section of track in front of you. Pan with the car or group of cars as they go by & take a few shots while they are in the zone you've pre focused on.
If however you're really serious about it & think you'll attend enough events to justify spending the money the 7D, 1D2n, 1D3 & 1D4 are all worthy bodies for action thanks to their AF systems & frame rate. For lenses I suggest considering any of these as a starting point but again you may need longer depending on access to the action. 70-200 f4 L, or the IS version or maybe the f2.8 versions but since the 70-300 L IS seems to have both a very fast & accurate AF system it would be my first choice as a from the stands starting point. The 100-400 L would be my next addition to a motorsports kit but I don't think it's the lens I'd start with.
As for setting up a camera for action (DSLR's but some P & S may work too) I wrote an article which is a good starting point & the suggested shutter speeds for prop planes fit a rookie shooting motorsports so I recommend reading this plus use the link in my last post for another set of lessons from Canon that you should read.
http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=147971
As a side note I started attending R/C events to work on my panning skills so I'd be better at the track. A smooth panning swing is developed through practice & it's the key to good results, and follow through after the last shot in each sequence.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

What are the best import settings for iTunes - AAC 160 / AAC 192 / MP3??

Hi I originally imported all my treasured CDs to iTunes several years ago, and they've served me well (AAC 128 - default setting) but in recent times hard-drive sizes have trebled and my much loved iTunes Library has not been updated.
I am thinking of re-importing all of my original CDs - as I think now that hard-drive space would allow for a higher quality but at the same time I do not want to fill my hard-drive completely with music - hence my question;
WHAT ARE THE BEST IMPORT SETTINGS CONSIDERING SIZE AND QUALITY?
(I know this has probably been asked a million times, but I did a search and nothing came up that answered my Q - also all the answers that came up in Google search where dated 2003/ 2004 - a little out-dated me thinks!!)
Rachael

Personally I've started ripping everything Apple Lossless. That way I hope I never have to rip again.
I used to rip 320 mp3. I couldn't tell the difference between 320 mp3 and lossless, but, one day I might be able to - big maybe. But since disk price is not likely to go up, I figured I'd rip lossless from now on "just in case."
Probably few, if any, people could tell the difference between 256 AAC and lossless (I've done it at 192, but never at 256, and I have not bothered trying again recently - there might be a song out there where I could hear the difference, hence ripping lossless from now on - my time costs more than disk space . . .)
256 AAC is a pretty safe bet, unless you need mp3 compatibility, then use 256 (or 320) mp3.

Settings for Canon EOS 450, Adobe Camera RAW, PS CS 5 and printing photos

I have a Canon CS EOS 450, have used PS CS5 in the past. I have now been made aware of Camera RAW and have started using it. My problem is that the images varies when I open the photos in different programs. My laptop is a HP Probook, 64 bit, Windows 7, etc.
So, my question is about settings on the different devices; Camera and programs:
1. I shoot in RAW, so I believe no change in camera settings.
2. Adobe CR- I use white balance, contrast, clarity, and vibrance. Any programme changes on ACR programme necessary (ie colour, etc in the programme to match with my screen?))
3. Biggest difference between moving from ACR to PS CS5- usually a big difference between these two (colour; sharpness)
4. And what would be the best proramme to watch the photos that will look as close to what I will get if I print these in photos?

You should read up on color management. It's relatively complex, and is difficult to teach in a forum thread.
Your raw conversions are (if you haven't changed the defaults) being converted to the Adobe RGB 1998 color space.
I suspect you'll see some initial improvement in consistency by doing the following:
Open a raw image to get the Camera Raw dialog.
Click the little link at the bottom center.
Change the Adobe RGB default color space to sRGB.
Complete the opening of the file.
This will set the color space for further conversions to sRGB, which is likely going to seem more consistent when you open the images in your other apps.
After you learn more about color management, and you understand how the parts interact and what additional steps you'll need to consider, you may well want to change this setting back, or even go so far as to change it to ProPhoto RGB, which has the largest gamut.
-Noel

How do I : Transfer camera photos to computer and then E-mail to someone.( Power Shot 160 IS)

HOW DO I : Transfer camera photos taken ( POWER Shot 160 IS) to computer and then E-Mail the out.

Hi BobHopkins!
Thank you for posting.
First, you will need to install the software that came with your camera. Then, connect your camera and power it on in playback. Use the Canon software to download the images from your camera.
Once the images are on your computer, there are a couple of ways to e-mail them. Canon's ImageBrowser EX has an e-mail option in it that you can use simply by selecting the images you want to e-mail, clicking on the Share button, then selecting Email Images.
Otherwise, you can open your favorite e-mail application, then use the appropriate options in that application to attach images to a new e-mail.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

RAW Native Camera Settings for Nikon - do they convert?

Question on RAW processing in Lightroom. Can Lightroom show ALL of the the in-camera settings (WB, saturation, etc.) selected when the shot was taken? I prefer not to have to re-cook the RAW photos from scratch on every picture. Nikon NX2 provides this option (i.e. the RAW and JPEG can look identical as starting points on your screen) which I find helpful versus dealing with uncooked RAW images to start with each time. I am considering Lightroom for lots of other good reasons but this is a threshold issue for me due to time, etc.
Would love to hear anyone's experience on this. I use a Nikon D80.
Thanks much.
Gary

Robert,
Specific camera settings,etc, are in fact stored in Nikon Nefs and can be read by NX2--or changed, if one wishes in NX2, but nowhere else, as has been stated.
Eric,
Presets, or profiles, may come close in some instances to reasonably good starting points for NEFs in LR2, so if that is all you need or use NX2 for, then your advice is reasonable.
However, at this point in time, NX2 has some distinct advantages, most notably much more advanced and faster local corrections tools than LR2 and soft proofing, to name two.
However, LR2 editing is integrated with a catalog database, and NX2 is browser based, and that may make LR2 worth the tradeoff for some users. Both, of course, offer non destructive editing.
Each has it strengths and weaknesses, so I use both to take advantage of the unique tools each offers.

Best camera for low light and sports

have the sx200is
looking for a newer camera for sports and low light shots

The challenge with sports is that you are REALLY pushing the camera gear to it's limits. Fast action requires fast shutter speeds. But fast shutter speeds demand a lot of light and only outdoor games played during the daytime have that. Indoor games or games played under field lighting at night generally do not have the kind of lighting needed to shoot with fast shutter speeds -- not the kind of shutter speeds needed to freeze action. So this ends up demanding a camera with excellent ISO performance and lenses with very low focal ratios so they can collect a LOT more light when the shutter is open. This gear is expensive.
You will want to consider a reasonable budget depending on what you can afford and the needs of the specific sports.
Are these indoor or outdoor sports? If outdoors, are these played during the day or are they night games?
The "best" camera for sports and low light is the EOS-1D X. It has phenominal low-light performance, has an amazing focus system, and can shoot at 12 frames per second. But it's about $6800 for the "body only" and then you still need lenses. I'm guessing this is probably not what you had in mind. But if money were not a constraint... this would be the one to go for.
The 5D III is another amazing camera for low light performance and and also has an amazing focusing system (largely the same as the 1D X) can shoot at 6 frames per second, and only costs $3500... again, that's the "body only". Still probably not what you had in mind.
The 70D has an extremely good focus system (though not as good as the 5D III and 1D X), not quite as good as low light (but pretty good and much better than a point & shoot camera) and shoots at 7 frames per second (1 fps faster than 5D III) and it only costs $1200 for the body only.
The T5i will be noticeably less expensive than the 70D... a good (but not extremely good) focusing system and 5 frames per second, but the body and 1 kit lens combined is about $850 but that wont a lens suitable for use shooting sports so you'll still need to invest in more appropriate lenses.
When shooting action photography in low light, what you _really_ want is a lens that can collect a lot more light than the average lens for that very brief moment when the shutter is open. Such a lens can allow you to use a faster shutter speed to help freeze those action shots. But *which* lens you use depends on the sport.
For low-light sports, these would ideally be f/2.8 zoom lenses... but f/2.8 zoom lenses are not cheap. Canon's EF 70-200 f/2.8L IS USM (ideal for most indoor sports and outdoor sports IF the action is happening close to you) is about $2500. Sigma's lens is about half that price. But if you're covering action on a large athletic field and the players are far away, they'll still be small. Sigma makes a 120-300mm f/2.8 zoom for sports... for the low low price of only $3600.
Scott Kelby does a video to talk about sports photography and he discusses the equipment used and why... and basically says if you want the gear for shooting sports, you basically need a suitcase full of money.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

For my power shot S5IS, best camera settings for 4 X 6 prints?

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