Found a small chip on the corner of my new macbook pro- worth calling?

I've had this mac since around December time so I've been very careful with my new purchase! I was just at my desk today when I realised there is small chip on the edge near the battery charger.
Is it worth calling apple about or will they not do anything?
Not sure what can be done, its just annoying considering its so new!

You are a bit over the Apple 14 day return period. There is no way to tell if it came like that and even if it did you would of needed to see it when you took it out of the box. And then taken it back for a replacement.
Sorry but as Steve says Apple will do nothing for you as this falls under accidental damage, as far as Apple is concerned.

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There's a soft white dot on the screen of my new MacBook Pro Retnia

There's a soft white dot on the screen of my new MacBook Pro Retnia That is visible especially when the background is light. It isn't a sharp dot but rather a soft blurred looking dot. Does anybody else have something like this or does anyone know what it is? I'm thinking its s dead pixel but it doesn't look like one that i've seen on other lcd displays.
I set my desktop background to a 50% grey and that's how I found it. Now that I did, i can't stop looking at it. I tried to take a pic of it its in the center of the photo. Its not easy to see on the photo but, its very easy to see on the display. Oh and its not dirt or something on the surface. Not sure if i should go to the genius bar on it. I am worried that it may get worse. Any input is appreciated.

I also had this problem, same make and model and specifications as you have. Brought it into Apple and also called them about. They stated they have not heard of this yet although I find that hard to believe with the # of cases on this being reported. Must have been a bad lot or batch of Retina MBP's that were made and this got by quality control. But they were okay with giving me a new one on the spot.
As you said, doesn't show on darks but on whites; oh boy it sure does and it is annoying on photo editing and documents where white is all you see; about 1.5mm x 1mm big and bright like a little star. Very hard to detect at first unless you have the white background up as wallpaper.
I sent my MBP back for a replacement and told them I did not want a repair on a computer that was less than 3 weeks old. Stuff happens and no one is perfect so long as Apple and their resellers stand by and make amends by issuing new MBP's. I did not buy mine via Apple direct this time, but rather used a authorized Apple reseller and fortunately they agreed to issue a new one. Keeping fingers crossed.

What is the exact name of the cable I need to connect my old hard drive from my macbook pro (it has been taken out of the computer) to my new macbook pro? I need to transfer files from the old hard drive to the new computer.

What is the exact name of the cable I need to connect my old hard drive from my macbook pro, which has been removed from the computer, to my new macbook pro? I need to transfere files from the old hard drive to the new computer.

No eSATA to USB. Just a SATA/IDE to USB adapter. Google SATA/IDE to USB adapter and you will get tons of links to buy them. Most likely your local computer electronics store has them, although they might be more expensive buying locally than online.
I have several. You can get either USB 2, which what I recommend, or USB 3. USB is backward compatible so a USB 3 adapter will work on a USB 2 port and a USB 2 adapter will work on a USB 3 port. Backward compatible in both directions.
I suggest a USB 2 type because there have been some problems with certain USB 3 devices, the USB 3 interface used isn't all that good in those certain devices. USB 3 is still fairly new where as USB 2 has been around for over 10 years.
synghem wrote:
Thank you LowLuster,
At the apple store they said I needed an esata to usb wire. But looking at wires on line has been confusing. Is sata the same as esata? How do I know if I need a usb 3 or usb 2?

I have iWork 09 with a family license. I am unable to install the software on my new Macbook Pro (the message is simply "Installation failed"). I wonder if I need to remove an old computer from the family license, and if so, how?

I have iWork 09 with a family license. I am unable to install the software on my new Macbook Pro (the message is simply "Installation failed"). I wonder if I need to remove an old computer from the family license, and if so, how?

Yes, gladly. I am trying to install on a 13" MacBook Pro with OS X 10.8.3. I insert the disk into the SuperDrive. The I work '09 window pops up with two icons: one Tim install and one that says "Read before you install iWork." I double-click on the "Install iWork '09" icon, and a window appears that says, "This package will run a program to determine if the software can be installed." I click "continue" and see "Welcome to the iWork '09 installer." I click on "Continue." The "read me" bullet on the left lights up, and I see "Read before you install. . . ." I click "Continue," then see the software license agreement. When I click on "Continue" again, I am asked to agree, and I do. The window then says, "Standard Install on 'Mackintosh HD" and indicates how much space the program will take.
I click "Install," enter my password, and the installation begins. It goes through a validating phase and begins "writing files." It indicates that installation will take about 30 minutes (although that number fluctuates). After about four minutes it goes to "cleaning up." Then after just a few seconds, the "Summary" bullet on the left lights up and this message appears: "There were errors with the installation. You may want to try installing again." There is a large yellow triangle with an exclamation point in it, and a bold "The installation failed." Below that appears "The installer encountered an error that caused the installation to fail. Contact the software manufacturer for assistance."
At that point, a "Close" button is pulsating blue at the bottom of the window.
Sorry for the tedious detail. Anything revealing there?
Thanks!

Why does the internet on my new macbook pro not work when my old macbook's does?

Why does the internet on my new macbook pro not work when my old macbook's does? I'll have to turn the wifi off and back on multiple times to get the internet to continue to work on my Macbook Pro (running mountain lion but did it on lion also) when it runs fine on my old white Macbook (running lion). Is there something I can do to fix it or do I just have to deal with it?

Here is your fix .. I have uploaded my properly calibrated profile get it here :
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=YAJL6A9X
And it should go to your user folder/Library/ColorSync/Profiles
if you have one already you can rename either one ..
and then go to system preferences - displays - color to select the profile .
you will get rid of the blue tint while keeping correct color and gamma
This is for the newer 2010 MBP's altho if same display was used might also give good results in the previous models as well . .

Will the Superdrive on a new Macbook Pro play Blu Ray DVDs?

Will the Superdrive on a new Macbook Pro play BluRay DVDs?

No:
Maximum read: 8x DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-ROM; 6x DVD-ROM (double layer DVD-9), DVD-R DL (double layer), DVD+R DL (double layer), DVD-RW, DVD+RW; 24x CD
http://www.apple.com/macbookpro/specs.html

What kind of longevity can I expect from the SSD in a new MacBook Pro with Retina Display?

Hi all,
I recently ordered a new MacBook Pro with the Retina Display. This will be both my first computer and my first Mac that uses a SSD as the primary storage device. As the title of this post suggests, what I would like to know is what sort of lifespan/longevity can I expect to get out of it? My current MacBook Pro was manufactured in 2007 and has a stock 160GB Fujitsu hard drive that has been fantastic for me over the past 4-5 years. It continues to run like a champ, and I would hope that a brand new SSD would be able to last at least that long. Given that the new retina MBPs cannot be upgraded or (easily) user-serviced, I am somewhat curious to know whether or not Apple's new proprietary SSD modules will give out/slow to a crawl before/after my new machine becomes completely obsolete. I have been searching for articles published within the past few months on whether or not the current crop of SSDs on the market are more reliable than those introduced a year or two ago, but alas, I haven't had much luck. Perhaps it is still too early to tell?
I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.

ARealMac(PPC)User wrote:
...I found a few discussion threads on here somewhere where some users indicated that their original MacBook Airs, or other SSD-equipped MacBooks, were still performing quite well and responsively after a few years of use. Can anyone substantiate this for me? How long have you been using your SSD(s) in your Mac(s), and do you think the newer models will be able to last several years? I would greatly appreciate any insight.
While I think your concern is legitimate (it was mine too), I think to some extent, how long they last will be up to you. The individual cells in the flash media in an SSD have limited life spans, and SSD controllers have a variety of techniques to spread that wear around evenly (wear leveling). That wear is exacerbated by the controller having to erase a whole block of data when even just one page needs to be changed, and if not all the data in the block is still valid, more data than necessary gets moved (write amplification). To provide some extra room for all this reshuffling of data, SSD manufacturers build in extra space that's inaccessible to the user (over-provisioning), but it typically runs about 7%. (This is a good discussion of the inner workings of all this)
If you stuff your SSD full of files, so that there's very little room to do all this rearranging, I think you'll experience the slowdown you're concerned about. TRIM, which Apple's SSD's support, will help, but you can too. Allow plenty of free space on your SSD and perhaps partition it so that there is free space outside the partition (check this out to see what a difference it can make). You can't use it but the controller can as an extension of the built-in over-provisioning.
You also mention that you "will most likely use it to record several tracks and store my growing library of songs and videos." Why not instead use an external SSD connected via USB 3.0 for storage? They're relatively cheap, very fast, and keep the space on your internal working drive free. A BootCamp partition would also take up space, so you might consider using Windows in a Virtual Machine instead. VMware Fusion or Parallels would be installed on the internal SSD but the virtual machine files could go on the external.
In any case, your data is more important than your SSD, so back up, back up, back up.

Why do the fans on my new Macbook Pro Retina always turn on?

I recently purchased a new Macbook Pro 15'' Retina and the fans seem to, at random, start spinning at full speed...even when the computer is relatively cold and there are very little system process running. This computer is replacing a similar system that was stolen and this never happened with the old computer.
I've tried restarting, checking activity monitor for anything taking up a lot of resources and haven't found anything. Here are a few screenshots of temp information and fan speed:
Is this normal? Should I exchange it? Any advice?
Thanks,
Steven
System Specs:
Processor 2.6 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Graphics Intel HD Graphics 4000 512 MB
Software OS X 10.8.2 (12C3103)

You are not the first to report such a situation with a retina MBP. I would exchange it for a new one if I were in your position. You could try a SMC reset, but I'm not sure it will cure the problem.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Ciao.

How do I compare the speed of my new MacBook Pro to my old one?

I recently purchased a new MacBook Pro (2.6 Ghz Intel Core i7, 8 GB 1600 Mhz DDR3) and gave my old one to my daughter. I used Time Machine to basically produce an exact copy of the old machine; however, in the six weeks I've been using it, I don't seem to see any improvements in speed eg programmes which took several seconds to open still take several seconds to open (I know - learn to be a bit more patient!).
Is there a simple way of comparing two machines? Are there any ways the general public can "benchmark" different computers to allow a direct comparison?

Drewsey_woosey wrote:
I recently purchased a new MacBook Pro (2.6 Ghz Intel Core i7, 8 GB 1600 Mhz DDR3) and gave my old one to my daughter. I used Time Machine to basically produce an exact copy of the old machine; however, in the six weeks I've been using it, I don't seem to see any improvements in speed eg programmes which took several seconds to open still take several seconds to open (I know - learn to be a bit more patient!).
Is there a simple way of comparing two machines? Are there any ways the general public can "benchmark" different computers to allow a direct comparison?
You might have gotten a newer machine, which is surely faster performing on the hardware side if you run GeekBench, XBench and other tests for CPU, Graphics and UI responses.
However some hardware speeds haven't changed too much, like hard drives which Apple places pokey 5,400 RPM drives in their laptop because it's more stable and takes less power.
Apple likes to add features to OS X to sell more hardware, this "bloat" tends to eat away at the hardware performance you do get when you buy a new machine.
Apple very well can make the UI feel more snappy, however they put speed limits in as they want people to be able to recognize something is happening.
Another factor is you restored from TimeMachine, which doesn't really optimize the hard drive when it restores back.
Another factor is a lot of hard drives come from the factor with bad sectors, which takes time for the drive to discover and map off, this affects read performance.
Another factor is perhaps you bought a 13" MBP, with no dedicated graphics card, so it's running on the Intel CPU 4000 graphics which is greatly inferior to the higher end 15" dedicated graphics.
Another factor is when you restored from TimeMachine your personal data pushed past the 50% mark on your boot hard drive, these sectors and tracks on the hard drive are shorter and further inwards thus it takes longer for the read heads to get data from them.
I don't have to recommned any program for you to test your new hardware against the old one, I know your new machine is probablly faster.
What I suspect has occured is your machine either doesn't have a dedicated video card (a 13", cant' help about that)
or that your running 10.7 (you CAN upgrade to 10.8 which reports are it's a bit snappier)
Does your Mac qualify for free 10.8 upgrade?
I suspect you dont't have a SSD or else you wouldn't be complaining, so that leaves a boot hard drive over 50% filled and/or a deoptimized TimeMachine restore.
What you can do is get a blank, powered external drive and a copy of Carbon Copy Cloner
1: Reduce the content of your boot drive user data so Acitivty Monitor > Disk Usage is below 50% (never more than 80% filled) reboot to see the changes.
2: Use CCC to clone the Macintosh HD partition to the external drive, hold the option key down while booting and boot off the clone drive.
3: Use Disk Utility (on the clone) to select your Macintosh HD partiton on the internal drive, use the Erase > Secure Erase middle selection and wait, this will "zero" the drive and ehen it checks, will map off any bad or failing sectors.
4: When that's completed (takes a few hours) then use CCC to clone the clone back onto the Macintosh HD partition.
5: Reboot and Disk Utility > Repair permissions on both drives, use OnyX from MacUpdate.com to run all the maintainence and cleaning aspects and reboot.
For the OnyX routine, see #12 here: Step by Step to fix your Mac
What you should wind up with is a as snappy machine as possible, your Applications will be written to the "hot band" which is the fastest portion of the hard drive, hopefully any bad sectors which take longer to read from will be eliminated.
If you want to make hardware changes, I recommned getting a Solid State Drive for faster speed, however they can't be securely erased and Filevault has been cracked so that's no protection.
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/
FYI I have a pokey 5,400 RPM drive, butI used the optimization techniques above and it's dam well snappy. I also run 10.6.8 on a Early 2011, which is the last machines that can run 10.6., so because the OS is less bloated I get more UI response.
Other factos I have, I have a 25 Mb/p download Internet speed and a 5Ghz WPA2(AES) ruoter with no leachers or other users. I use Firefox with the broadband tweaks which is even faster than Safari which is the fasest browser on Macs. My web pages lad in about 1-2 seconds onaverage.

I can't seem to close the screen on my new MacBook Pro with ext montitor

I have a new MacBook Pro with a Samsung T240 through the DVI link. I can see my desktop on the external monitor when the laptop screen is open, but if I close it the computer goes to sleep and I cannot see anything on the T240.
I have the Bluetooth keyboard and the Bluetooth mouse. The mouse also deactivates until I manually browse for it after I wake the computer up by opening the screen.
I know I should be able to keep the display closed but how do I do this? Thanks!

MrAceXPS wrote:
I know I should be able to keep the display closed but how do I do this? Thanks!
Let the laptop sleep, then hit a key on the keyboard or wiggle the mouse to wake it up.

I would like to inquiry about the video tuitorial for new macbook pro user

i"m a new user of macbook pro so i would request your support to give me the tuitorial video or any manual to acknowledge the system and how to use the macbook pro with high efficiency. <Edited by Host> Thank you very mufh.
Kpleang

See Here
http://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro/
And Here
http://www.apple.com/findouthow/mac/
Also, Not a Good Idea to Post your email address on a Public Forum...

HT201177 Sometimes the screen on my new macbook pro slowly pulses from very light to a rather dark screen. This happens both whether or not it's plugged in. It's sporadic, and unpredictable. I'd love an answer. Thanks.

Sometimes the screen on my new Mac Book Pro slowly pulses from very light to a darker screen than I like. This is an intermittent problem and happens whether the computer is plugged in or on battery. Hope someone can help. Thanks. Ellen 206

That is the automatic ambient light sensor doing it's thing.
Depending on what machine you have, try turning the screen brightness all the way up. It will buttons on the top row, usually the F-1 for dimmer, F-2 for brighter
Also you can go to sytem preferences>display and un check the automatically adjust brightness for ambient light.
Hope this helps

Found a small chip on the upper right corner of my iMac screen. Has anyone had this repaired? Can you tell about the experience?

Wondered about the cost and whether there were any low-cost solutions short of full glass replacement on the monitor.

Also, found many of what you need on eBay.
Just search for iMac glass.
Here are my results
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0&_nkw=iMac+gl ass+&_sacat=0&_from=R40
It's not too expensive a part to obtain
It's a, relatively easy item for a user to remove and replace yourself, if you don't want to truck your iMac to an Apple Store.
Here's but just one video showing you how to remove the panel and how to reinstall it or another new panel.
The glass screen is held on the iMac by strong magnets that latch onto the metal frame on the back of the glass panel.
http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=9cHMHzq5E5I&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D9cHMHzq5E5 I
Good Luck!

How do I search the internet on a new macbook pro

How do I get the google app to search the internet? I cant find it in the app store.

Hi...
Google is not an app, it's a search engine.
Click this link > http://www.google.com/
Then bookmark that page so it's easy to access. From the Safari menu bar top of your screen click Bookmarks > Add Bookmark.
From the pop up menu select: Bookmarks Bar
You can access your Bookmarks not just from the Bookmarks Bar, but by clicking the Bookmarks icon top left corner of the Safari window

I live in the UK but visit the US regularly. The price of a new MacBook Pro is much less in the US, and is where I plan to buy one. However, I have read that a US machine will not play UK DVD's. Is this true and if so is it possible to change the codes?

I live in the UK but visit the US regularly. I plan to buy a MacBookPro in the US but have read that it will not play UK DVD's. Is this so? If so, is it possible to change the codes?

All modern & new Macs can play both PAL and NTSC DVDs. I do it all the time and it works perfectly.
The DVD drive is set to its first region code when you first play a DVD in it. So when you buy a Mac, whatever type of DVD you play first will determine the initial region code that is set. If it's a PAL/Region 2 DVD it will set the DVD drive to region 2.
The only thing you have to watch out for is if you have a collection of DVDs that have different region codes. In those cases you may be faced with changing the region code in the DVD drive in order to play one or more of the DVDs; and as others have noted there is a limit to the number of times you can change the region code (most modern DVD drives allow up to 5 changes; the 5th change becomes the permanent change). This is due to industry licensing practices.
If you have DVDs that are Region 0 or All Regions you don't have to worry about region codes.

Found a small chip on the corner of my new macbook pro- worth calling?

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