HD up-size on new MBP-SR

Has anyone successfully up-sized there MBP-SR 2.2 or 2.4 to a larger internal hard drive? ( I know about the instructions on iFixIt )
1. If so to what size?
2. Make of drive?
3. Model of drive?
4. RPM/Cache Buffer Size?
5. Any problems:
A. Noise
B. Operation....speed/panics/weirdness
C. Vibration
D. Heat
6. Difficulty to do 1-10 (1 easy minutes /10 very difficult hours)?
7. Would you do it again?

The printers are each attached to the network one with an internal NIC and the other to a Belkin Print server. We use IP Addressing to connect to them.
I had one person say that I needed to install PS and PCL drivers for the Mac, but aren't those part of the drivers?

Similar Messages

Font size on my shiny new MBP

I just got my brand new MBP i7 17" replacing my late 2008 MBP 15". Migration of everything was a breeze (took about an hour for 150GB of data and such). I had to run through a couple of updates of software, and I was ready to go.
My laptop is connected to a 24" LED Cinema Display through the mini-display port. I do most of my work on the LED display, using the MBP to show email and to occasionally dump an image or something that I need to copy to work on my main display.
The problem is that everything is tiny on the MBP. It's kind of cool that I can see my 50 or so Mail folders, but they're just on the edge of readability. I've done some tinkering with the resolution (it's set to 1920X1200), the same as my LED display. But the LED is perfect, but my MBP is not. I tried some lower resolutions, but the image was fuzzy, harder to read.
My 15" MBP didn't have this problem. The screen resolutions seem to match perfectly on my 15" and on the LED.
There must be a simple fix. I'm not finding it, because I've never had this issue, since this is my first 17" MBP. Any help would be appreciated.

The current 17" 1920 x 1200 screen has the smallest pixels of any Mac product, now or ever. This means that any graphic element made up of a specified pattern of lighter and darker pixels will be smaller on that screen than on any other Apple screen. Non-adjustable user-interface elements like the menu bar and the text in it, modal dialog boxes and the text in them, standard Open and Save dialog boxes and the text in them, and toolbars and palettes in many applications, are displayed smaller on that screen than on any other Apple display.
For comparison purposes, here is a table showing the actual pixels-per-inch resolution of various current and recent Apple displays (thanks, Pythagoras!):
13.3" MBP: 1280 x 800 pixels @ 113.5 pixels per inch
15.4" MBP: 1440 x 900 pixels @ 110.3 pixels per inch
15.4" hi-res MBP: 1680 x 1050 @ 128.6 pixels per inch
17.0" MBP: 1920 x 1200 pixels @ 133.2 pixels per inch
24" Apple LED display: 1920 x 1200 @ 113.2 pixels per inch
27" iMac or Cinema display: 2560 x 1440 @ 108.8 pixels per inch
30" Apple monitor: 2560 x 1440 @ 97.9 pixels per inch
As you can see, the 15.4" MBP with the standard-resolution 1440 x 900 display is pretty close, as far as pixel size is concerned, to the 24" Apple Cinema LED Display, and the 13.3" MBP display is nearly identical to the 24" display. But they all have substantially larger pixels than your 17", so it's no surprise that you're finding things harder to see on your new screen. Many applications do give you options for increasing the sizes of most things that appear in them, but the only way to make the menu bar and other non-adjustable user interface items that are part of the operating system look larger is to decrease the screen resolution. As you've seen, when you do that, everything gets blurry.
A pixel is not divisible: it can only be one color or one shade of gray, not part one color and part another. So when you use a fixed grid of 1920 x 1200 physical pixels, which is what your screen is, to try to simulate a grid of, say, 1680 x 1050 or 1440 x 900 pixels by setting your resolution lower, the best that can be done with the available physical grid is to approximate the appearance of the larger pixels in those other grids. The inescapable outcome and, in fact, the literal meaning of "approximation" in this context, is blurring.
Ideally, you would have looked hard at the 17" MBP's display in an Apple Store and made an informed decision about whether it was going to work out well for you before buying one. It may or may not have been possible for you to do that, and you may or may not have taken the trouble. It is true that for some people (more of them with older eyes than with younger ones), the screen on that machine is just not usable, and selecting a lower resolution and living with the resultant blurring is an unacceptable remedy. If you find yourself among those people, you may have to try to return your MBP before 14 days have gone by.

New MBP and memory

It's been 5 yrs since my last laptop, so ready to get the new MBP. One question. 4G memory is quite a hit through Apple, but there are vendors out there ( eg Crucial) that charge about 1/2 that amount. Some time ago, Apple lowered it's price on memory to compete with other vendors. I am wondering if Apple's memory is different ( from the Website of the 3rd party vendors, it does not seem so). Any comments as to why not get 2G, update to 4 and sell memory that comes with Apple? Thanks in advance.

Is it possible to upgrade to the 7200rpm hard drive?
Yes it is although as the drive in the MBP is not listed as a "user replaceable part" you will technically void your warranty by doing so. A better option is seeing if you can find an authorised Apple service centre to do it for you so that warranty is compromised.
Would this newer model make any difference in my life?
Are you referring to the drive or the whole computer? If you mean just the drive I wouldn't think so (when comparing like sizes - 160GB).
As for the computer as a whole, the fact that it supports 4GB (and assuming you go for 4GB) and has a superior GPU are, to me at least, compelling reasons to upgrade if you make money from your MBP. Especially when you consider the requirement of FCS. Having said that, if this is the case the you should be able to just as easily justify the cost of going to a Mac Pro (which is the way I went resulting in allow me to opt for a lower MBP than otherwise) which is substantially better.
What you need to do is decide whether the cost of making the upgrade justifies the incremental gains made by replacing your system.
PS Next time, unless your issues match or very closely match that of the original post it's better to start your own thread. Or better still, find a matching thread that suits your question(s).

New MBP, and am having memory trouble errors with MS Word 2004

Hi,
I know this has been talked about before, but I'm not sure where to post this question. I have a new MBP, with a full version of Word (no previous trial software installed). I have been trying to copy and past basic text files from Yahoo mail, to create a book of emails of sorts. My file size has been approaching my memory capacity (basic setup). Does it not create a swap file and let you keep going if you approach the limits of the onboard memory? I understand it will run a bit slower, but I'm only moving text files and nothing else. Why the proverbial memory/disk full error messages? Does it have anything to do with the software being non universal code?
Do I need to get rid of temporary files, as Im copying and pasting alot? If so, how?
Anyone have the same trouble, and have a clear solution? I could also swear my MPB is running alot slower with Word than I would have expected.
Any help you can give me would b appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave

I’ll try to answer your questions briefly without going into too much detail. First of all, I think the error message you are seeing is generated by MS Word and not your operating system. That particular error, and other similar ones, are quite common in Word in particular situations and are the result of a known bug.
As far as I know, there is no fix, but there are several work-arounds. The bug has to do with the number of temporary files that get created when working with large Word files. As you might guess, the larger your file, the larger the temp files, and they will quickly fill up your existing RAM, which then causes the error that generates the message. You have to delete the temp files---you can do that by saving and closing your file, then restart it. There are some scripts you can run, but that is beyond what I want to get into here (and usually is not necessary).
The other problem is that by copying and pasting text from Yahoo Mail, you are not pasting simple text---you are pasting all the HTML code, formatting, and everything else that is contained in that text. And Word saves it all, then adds its own formatting and other code---leading to corrupt files sooner or later.
And then, to make it all worse, if your file is as large as you say it is (close to system memory in size), that is one huge Word file, and Word does not handle really large files very well, especially Word 2004, but all versions of Word, Windows versions included, have trouble with large files.
Word does in fact run slowly on even the newest MacBook Pros because Word is not yet compiled for the Intel Macs and does not run natively as a universal binary but runs under Rosetta, which translates Word to run on Apple computers running Intel CPUs. If you are working with small files, it isn’t too bad, but big files will slow it down to almost a crawl at times, or it will even stop responding for several seconds between each command.
You can work around these problems by breaking your file into much smaller ones, save often (and close the file once in while), and save as a text file, rather than as a doc file.
An alternative is to use another word processor or text editor to save your copied text---there are many that will work as well as or better than Word for what you want to do. Pages is a good alternative----I have to collaborate on Word files every day, and I prefer to work on my MacBook Pro (although I also use Windows-based computers about as frequently, too), and except for the most complex Word files with tables, charts, and pictures, Pages works very well, and you can save the file as a Word document, too, if you need to.
Hope that answers some of your questions----and always remember….I could be wrong.

I Would Like a "Expert's" config. of a new MBP

I was offered by my parants that they will but me a new MacBook Pro. As much RAM as I want, the (solid stae) newer kind of HD, but about a year ago it was getting a bad rap from a lopt of comments I read on here. I can't remember the exact name fo the HD, but I think it had solid state in it. and I took a look at the new MBPs and there is a lot that is new to me. My last MPB was about 4 years ago and did not have half as much of the functions and special parts as the newest one I could see online.
so, I am wondering for basic architecture (software use), i would like to start backing up but i never have excpet when I backed up on the CDs a long time ago, and anything ele if someone gace you the chance to put together the most basic, but powerful MacBook Pro, what would you configure? I do some arcitecture teaching on the side with grade school kids, and I teach online grad students in kinesiology and exercise rehabilitation.
Please anybody that can just put their ideal machine together, and any explnations I would appreciate it. I will right off the bat go get the max in the RAM area. Is it possible to get a battery that has a longer life? I remember when I got this MBP there was supposed to be a big difference but it has been the same maybe even a little worde than the previosu MAC.
this may sound stupid like a lot in this post, but is Lion the best and the lates OS. I am getting the iPhone 4S from my sis so if there is anything I should get with the MPB that I might use for the phone or visa-vera, I would like that. I loved the Verizon MiFI2200 3G I had with this MBP, but it stopped working and no Verizon tech could get it to work, they suggested I go to the 4G. I hear Verizon says they have 4G but they really don't. somepone told me I could get a set-up that would turn the phone into a mobile hotspot but that may be beyond my mental ability. I was thinking about just getting wither the Verizon Samsong 4g mobile hotspot or what replaced the MIFI22003G but in the 4G category. the 3 G MIfi woked grest with my MBP but I have not read anything about the 4G that Verizon has out. Both of my contracts ae up from my verizon phone and the MIFI2200 4G so they have a $50 NEw Every Two (which they stopped) but are still offering it to the people that had it coming so I have 2 of the $50 New Every Two rebate type $$ that I just subtract $50 from the any 2 devices. I am using one for either the Samsong mobile hot spot or the MIFI 2200 4G (not sure if this is the right nae for the MIFI2200 3G replacement)
Also, is it better to get the machine and bring it back to the store so they can register the machine with the machine's name, and any other reason why I would want to take it back to the store? I remember they did some things to may last one, like document some thing in various places which did help he a few times when asked for something by the genius bar, set up the One-to-One for me so I would sign in, I knew how many sessions I had, what topic areas I wanted to test, etc.
My final question, I am still using a CAT5 long kind of fryed ethernet cable. A was reading a post on here that talked about the Blekin CAT6 ethernect cable is better if you take your machine to hotls that use the ethernet connection to get the internet, it will give you a slightly fast speed, independant of the speed the internet is gettting from the hotel. Any thought on this or is still the basic CAT5 just as good? I would like a little shorter one and more quality so the thing does not crack off from the main cable, the platic tab has a less chance of breaking off.
I think that is it. It is a gift and I do not want to get anything and everything I can think of but I would like to get the best MacBook Pro the Experts would suggest.
I am hoping at least one or two experts will take uy questions seriously so I have some standard to go byt because there are so many new names for the latest MBP, I do not think I would know most of the devices I was selecting are.
Not sure if it possible, but does Mac come with USB 2.0 yet? if so, I would like as many as those as I could.
Thanks. I really do appreciate it.

There is no configuration of a MBP that will satisfy the needs of all users. The variables are too many for the tasks that are required for the MBP to perform.
If cost is no object, the fastest CPU is a given as well as RAM. Needs for same may be few and not often if ever used, but certainly will do no harm,
Storage is an issue of a HDD with greater capacity compared with the speed offered by SSD with lesser capacity.
Size can be important. The convenience of portability of a 13" MBP with the larger and heavier 15" and 17' MBPs.
In the final analysis, you have to make these decisions.
Ciao.
(I'm not an expert)

My take on the new MBP

Hi all,
I thought I would give you guys and gals my opinion on the new MBP.
Firstly let me explain that I bought my MBP to replace my old PB G4 17" 1.67Ghz model, so as you can probably imagine it's a fairly big upgrade for me.
I have also been using Apple stuff for 20 years and have spent a small fortune on their products.
I am a web designer and a photographer, an amateur photographer I hasten to add!
The main software I use on my machines are Flash, Photoshop, Aperture, Dreamweaver, Final Cut etc. Without these I am lost.
Okay down to the nitty gritty, I have been reading forums all over the net and heard a lot of people moaning about these new machines, I do appreciate it may not be to some people's liking for whatever reason but please note this is just my opinion on the new MBP's.
I have the 2.4Ghz version with no RAM upgrade as yet.
My first opinion when getting it out of the box was 'Wow', these machines really do look nice, the colour of course is the same as old and it's difficult to explain why they look so nice, maybe it's because they are thinner, maybe it's because they are moulded, I really don't know but I do know that with most Apple products you cannot appreciate them until you've seen them in the flesh.
Opening the lid, well this was a revelation it looks absolutely stunning, simple, elegant and the screen (I know what most people think) is absolutely superb. Let me talk about the screen a little, now I know why there are different complaints about this and it generally boils down to calibration issues for pro photographers and people who need to print professionally. I of course had the matte screen on my 17" PB and can tell you now that it really used to annoy me when I was outside as I could not see the thing at all. On many occasions I wanted to sit out in the garden during the summer and do some work but was unable to. I have a computer upstairs in my office and use my MBP downstairs in the living room, this allows me to carry on doing work and still chat with my girlfriend downstairs. One of the major problems I do have is that the sun (especially in the winter months when it's much lower) shines directly through the window and beams nicely onto my MBP. With my PB I used to have to close the blind (much to my girlfriends annoyance) otherwise it was impossible to work with but with my new machine I can see the screen perfectly without closing it. In fact I am sitting in that very position now with the sunlight beaming through and it's no problem. I'm not going to say there is no reflection at all but it's hardly noticeable and I can definitely say with hand held on my heart that the screen is fantastic whether you are in direct sunlight or night. My girlfriend has the MB (the previous model) and she has a glossy screen, I'm not sure what Apple have done but the glossy screens on these new ones are much better.
The Keyboard.
I know some people don't like the chicklet keyboard but I have no problems with them. I actually prefer them to the older style but I guess that's personal preference. The backlight is absolutely fantastic, it's one of my favourite things on this machine. My old PB had a backlight keyboard but due to the silver keys and white lettering it was near on impossible to see at certain angles, even when looking at it directly it was nothing to write home about. The new backlight on the MBP is just fantastic, I can't say enough good things about it, you have to see it for yourself.
Trackpad.
Mmmmm, really love the look and the size, it makes other trackpads look totally archaic. However I'm not too sure about the whole clicking thing. I am not having problems that others have mentioned about the click not registering or taking time to register. To me the click works as well and as efficiently as a standard button but it is harder to press down and noisier. Apple mentioned that they spent many many hours just getting the click sound right but I think they could have done much better with this. It's the only thing on the machine I am not totally convinced about and could definitely be improved but it's certainly not a deal breaker.
Battery Life
Seems okay at the moment, I probably get around 3 hours with it but as with most Apple products this improves over time.
General Use.
I have had it since launch and am over the moon with it. The speed is fantastic and it does exactly what it sets out to do. Whatever anyone says (and yes it is expensive) this IS (in my opinion) a brilliant piece of kit. It's fast, it's responsive and it looks fantastic. You would be hard pushed to find a better laptop on the market but of course you'll have to pay the price.
I urge you all before passing comment on these new MBP's to go and check one out and see for yourself how good they really are. I know there's nothing like testing one at home when doing your own work but I'm sure that you will be surprised at just how good these machines are and that some of the comments you may have thought originally will soon be forgotten.

Sweet! I cannot wait for mine to arrive this week. i actually went
to the apple store to check it out i can not wait for its arrival. i was very impressed
Im going from a 1.25ghz PB with only 512mb ram to the new MBP with 4gb
of ram. Talk about a major upgrade (yes!!) As a fellow web/multimedia designer
I know I will benefit from this upgrade. I really hope to be more productive
with having dreamweaver,photoshop,flash etc all open at once. A sImple RAM upgrade
could have solve some of my problems wIth my current PB...but this new machine is just
beautiful and durable and will really help me work easier. My current PB will be my side project and back up for now. 5 years I've waited to upgrade........ and glad i did.

No Graphics Card option with new MBP 17"

I have a new MBP 17" laptop, and I can not change my graphic card options. I've looked at the support document (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3207) about changing the settings, but my problem is that the Energy Saver system pane does not give me the Graphics option in the top left of the window as shown in the support document. I've tried disconnecting the power supply to see if that would bring up the option, but to no avail.
Anybody else experience this or have any suggestions? I can't even tell which video processor the machine is currently using.

Take the computer to an Apple retailer or back to where you purchased it and have the problem fixed. The computer is under warranty. Otherwise the only thing you can try is to erase the hard drive and reinstall OS X or do the following if possible:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then quit DU and return to the installer.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

When should I buy a new MBP?

I'm leaving for college in the fall and I would like some help deciding when it makes sense to buy a new computer. I'm planning on buying a new MBP with Retina display, but I'm not sure if it's totally worth updating yet. I currently have a Late (October) 2009 White Macbook (2.26Ghz, 8GB RAM, 250GB HD), that works decently, but isn't wonderful--it's slowing down. I would appreciate some ideas and thoughts on when it makes sense to upgrade: now, before I leave for college; sometime during the fall semester, after I really know my computing needs (my least preferred option); or, this Christmastime? If anyone has some advice, it would be much appreciated.
Cheers!

ccshaw wrote:
Wouldn't it just make sense to put the money for the 7200rpm drive towards one more upgrade on the MBP? I could just cut that up front cost.
You can choose to forgo the hard drive upgrade, however 250GB is quite small, meaning your likely using a great portion of the second 50% of the drive, which the read/wrire performance is substancially reduced.
7,200 RPM doesn't make that much of a battery life dent that one will notice it, but one will notice the speedier response.
S0 by incrreasing the RPM's and the storage size, plus newer drive with better read/write speeds through technology improvments combined with a zero erase + fresh install of 10.6.1 (your original disks) and Software Updated to 10.6.8 (10.7 is slow) should make a dramatic improvement on that model.
However a erase + fresh install of 10.6 on that present 250GB can do the job well too, 10.7 is slow and you likely have other problems the 10.6 install will also cure.
How to erase and install Snow Leopard 10.6
How to revert your Mac to Snow Leopard
I'm not sure where I can get a copy of 10.6.8. Do you know where I could obtain that?
Your computer came with 10.6.1 install disks, hold c or option key down and boot off the disks, use Disk Utility to erase the entire drive (select the drive makers name and size on the left) with Security Option > Zero all data, wait, then when finished quit and install 10.6.1 and Software Update fully to 10.6.8.
If you no longer have the 10.6.1 disks, call Apple for a machine specific replacement disks for your 2009 Late 13" White MacBook.
You can also use the $29 10.6.3 white Snow Leopard retail disks sold here
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A
f it turns out that I do need Windows for class applications, do I install it on a partition by using disk utility and partitioning my HD (also, how big does that partition for windows need to be)?
There are two methods to use Windows on a Mac.
1: Apple's Bootcamp, which takes the bottom free space on your boot drive (250GB isn't much if you have a lot of OSX data) and allows you to direct install Windows 7 (only) there.
2: Virtual machine software, which allows one to run Windows (any flavor and Linux's) in a window in OS X.
You can read about both (pro's and cons) here:
Windows in BootCamp or Virtual Machine?

I am trying to decrease the size of my aperature library on my MB Pro HD. I used file\ relocate master to move files to my External HD(EHD) and this worked. However, the size of my MBP library has not decreased.

I am trying to decrease the size of my aperature library on my MB Pro HD. I used file\ relocate master to move files to my External HD(EHD) and this worked. However, the size of my MBP library has not decreased. I do not want to delete the files on my MB Pro until I am confident Aperature can see the files on the EHD. It looks like the relocate master fxn just copies the masters and data to another location.

Relocate master (or original in newer versions) does move and not copy the master file. Jut to make sure I just ram a test and moved some images out of the library to an external drive and they were definitely gone from the Aperture library.
If you look at the images in the library that you moved do they have the referenced file badge? If you run a filter on your library looking for referenced files do the images you relocated show up? If you select one of the images and do a Show in Finder what does it show? Finally if you select the images and do Locate Referenced files do they appear listed as being on the volume you put them on?
You could go into the library and look for the masters you moved to see if they are still there but if all the above show you they were relocated then I don;t think you will find them.
How are you checking the library size? Have you quit Aperture and restarted it (better would be to log out and log back in) and then checked the size? It is possible that some of that data is cached and won't get updated till you restart.
Finally you could do a library repair in case something got 'stuck'.

How to use Time Capsule to tranfer files to a new MBP?

Hey guys,
I have recently sold my old MBP, and had all my files backed up with Time Capsule. Now, I want to transfer my files to the my new MBP. What is the best way to do this? What cable can I use? I'd appreciate any information. Thanks.

This may help... Have you already created a user account on the new Mac? Or have you not yet started it? It makes a difference as to what approach you take as described below.
*_Migrating User Data From One Mac to Another_*
*Wirelessly or Directly Connected?* (For AirDisk Users)
Bear in mind that for Time Machine to successfully migrate user data, the backup disk must be accessed in the same manner in which the backups were originally created. Otherwise, the backups may not be visible for migration.
In other words, if backups were performed wirelessly to a hard disk attached to an Airport device, then the restoration will need to be performed either wirelessly, or, for faster speeds, via ethernet between your Mac and the Airport device. On the other hand, if backups were performed with the hard disk attached directly to your Mac, then the restoration will need to be performed with the hard disk connected directly to your Mac You cannot perform backups via one means and be able to access them via another means.
*Using Time Machine Before Initial Launch of New Mac*
Before starting the new Mac for the first time, attach the hard disk that contains the Time Machine backups from the old Mac. (For Time Capsule/AirDisk users: If you will be attempting this wirelessly, ensure that you are in range of your Airport wireless device. Alternatively, for faster migration of large quantities of data, connect your Mac via ethernet to your wireless device.)
Procedure:
Startup the new Mac and begin the setup process. You will initially see the video introduction.
At “Welcome” select your country and then preferred keyboard.
At “Do You Already Own a Mac?” you are asked “Would you like to transfer your information?”
+from another Mac+
+from another volume on this Mac+
+from a Time Machine backup+
+Do not transfer my information now+
Select “from a Time Machine backup” and click “Continue”.
At “Select a Backup Volume” choose your Time Machine backup disk and click “Continue”. (If you are attempting the migration wirelessly, then click “Join...” and select your network first.)
At “Transfer Your Information” check all the categories you wish to migrate over. If you wish your Mac to be in the same state as your last backup, then check everything. If, however, you are only interested in transferring one user account, then click the little disclosure triangle next to "Users". A list of all the previous users will appear. Just uncheck the user accounts you do NOT wish to migrate over. In other words, have only the desired account checked.
Give the installer time to calculate sizes.
Once that is complete, the “Transfer” button will become active and you can click it.
After the migration, verify the registration information, click “Connect” and you are done.
Once the migration is complete use Disk Utility to repair any permissions issues.
*Using Time Machine After Initial Launch of New Mac*
If you happened to initially set up the new Mac using a different username than the username on the account you wish to migrate, then skip to “Attach the hard disk containing...”.
If, on the other hand, it is the same username as the account you wish to migrate over, then do the following:
Go to System Preferences --> Accounts.
You may need to unlock the lock in the lower left to make changes.
Below the pane on the left click "+" and create a brand new Administrator User account on the Mac with a completely unique name - not the name of your own User account.
Now logout of the account you are currently in and log back in using the new Admin account you just created.
Attach the hard disk containing the previous Macs' Time Machine backups to the new computer. (For Time Capsule/AirDisk users migration will be much faster if you connect your Mac directly to the router via ethernet. [See “Wirelessly or Directly Connected” above])
Now go to Applications --> Utilities --> and launch Migration Assistant.
At the welcome dialogue click "Continue." You may be required to enter your Admin password.
For Migration Method chose "From a Time Machine backup or other disk". (Do not choose…
"Full System Restore" unless it is exactly the same Mac you are restoring to.)
At “Select the System to Transfer” choose the hard disk containing the previous Time Machine backups and click “Continue”. Give Migration Assistant some time as it connects to the drive and scans the disk for eligible data to migrate.
At “Select User Accounts to Transfer” put a check beside each account you would like migrate over to the new Mac.
At “Select the Items to Transfer” you can choose to migrate “Applications” over. If an application already resides on your new Mac, only the newest version will be transferred. Additionally, other “Files and Folders” that resided at the top level of your old Mac can be transferred at this point as well. Files from the “Library” folder of your old Mac will always be transferred over unless you uncheck the other two options.
Click “Continue”.
At “Select Computer Settings to Transfer” choose which settings you would prefer transferring to the new Mac. If you want a completely fresh system to start with, then do not check any of these options. This can be helpful if your previous system was experiencing issues.
Click “Transfer”.
If you have already created a User Account on the new Mac and it happens to be named the same as the User Account that is being migrated then Migration Assistant will report,
+"There is an existing user account with the same name as an account you are transferring."+
At that point, you will be able to choose one of the following:
+• Rename the user account you are transferring+
+• Replace the existing user account with the one you're transferring+
+• Do not transfer this user account+
If you wish the new Mac environment to be exactly the same as your old Mac, then avoid selecting “Rename the user account...”. Rather, select “Replace the existing user account...”. It will not be deleted but saved in a new folder labeled “Deleted Users” found in the main Users folder. Click “Next”.
At this point the transfer will begin with a bar displaying the progress. Once completed click “Quit”.
*Full Backup After Migration to New Mac*
Bear in mind that in all cases Time Machine will not continue to backup the previous Macs’ backup sets but will perform a new full backup. This is normal. Time Machine will resume incremental backups after the full backup has completed. To view previous backups, Control-click or right-click the Time Machine icon in your Dock or Option-click the Time Machine menu extra and Choose "Browse Other Time Machine Disks," then select the previous Mac’s backup set. You will enter Time Machine and be able to browse your previous back ups and restore files. [http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1338]
Let us know if this was helpful.
Cheers!

10.7.2/iCloud has crippled my new MBP

My new MBP (13" MBP 2.3 GHz i5, 4GB Ram) has been nearly paralized since upgrading to 10.7.2, iCloud & iOS 5 (I'm not sure if iOS 5 has anything to do with this). My MBP is crawling and giving me the spinning beach-ball WAAAY too often. In Console I see the following messages way too often:
10/13/11 6:11:35.000 PM kernel: IOSurface: buffer allocation size is zero
10/13/11 5:54:37.000 PM kernel: (default pager): [KERNEL]: ps_select_segment - send HI_WAT_ALERT
10/13/11 5:54:39.000 PM kernel: macx_swapon SUCCESS
10/13/11 5:07:32.000 PM kernel: MacAuthEvent en1 Auth result for: 00:11:24:a6:a9:91 MAC AUTH succeeded
10/13/11 5:07:32.000 PM kernel: wlEvent: en1 en1 Link UP
10/13/11 5:07:32.000 PM kernel: en1: BSSID changed to 00:11:24:a6:a9:91
10/13/11 5:00:56.807 PM com.apple.mdworker.pool.0: I/O error : encoder error
Any advice?

Restore your previous 10.7.1 bootable backup/clone or Time Machine backup.

How much free disc space should be on a new MBP?

On my brand new MBP, my first mistake was I did not immediately time machine the new mac or record the "available" disc size in it when it first came out of the box.
My next mistake was I ran migration assistant twice, and it failed with unspecified errors both times.
Now when I go to Apple->AboutThisMac->Storage, it reports OTHER as 121.48 GB, and Audio/Apps/Movies/Photos/Backups together are several dozen GB in total. So OTHER is taking up most of the used disc space right now.
Disc utility says the HD has used 151GB total, with 348.1 GB available.
Capacity of the disc size is 499.1GB
I have not yet put any data on this MBP, unless the migration utility did it without me knowing it and didn't delete it when it failed.
What exactly is OTHER data?
How can I find out if my failed migration attempts has put 100GB or thereabouts on this machine that I can safely delete?
How much disc space is USED right out of the box on this MBP (2014 13" retina, 500gig drive)?
Thanks!!!!

Here is a definition of OTHER: http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202867
Download from the Internet OmniDiskSweeper (free) and open it. It will show all of you files and the respective sizes. this should permit you to see exactly what you have on your MBP.
I would estimate that the OSX and the initial applications should take about 20 GB space or less.
Ciao.

Choosing new MBP purchase based on screen

My 2 year old 15" MBP bit the dust - it appears to be the GPU, but Apple can't confirm it, so they won't do a logicboard replacement. That makes it a write-off in my book; paying £750 for a 90 warranty on something that could fail again isn't something I'll do, especially when new MBPs can be found with a 12 month warranty for not too much more - plus the battery is dead, and the hard drive sounded like it was on the way out.
Being full-time in web development/startups, I'm anti-glare only, which almost makes a new MBP buying decision easy. However, I've been wondering;
1. Will Apple launch an anti-glare 15" soon? I'm not 100% sold on having 1920x1200 in a 17" screen. I'm used to it on my 24" Dell, but not on a laptop size screen.
2. Will a 15" 1650x1080 anti-glare screen ever exist? That would be perfect for me - I would rather hold out for that than buy a 17" anti-glare, but that isn't really an option as I use my Mac all hours of the day for work. This week without my MBP has to be factored in as a holiday.
3. Could I get a 15" with gloss and buy something like this;
http://www.photodon.com/MBP3-450x339.jpg or will that give unsatisfactory results?

Hi, N.Cauldwell.
1. Will Apple launch an anti-glare 15" soon?
2. Will a 15" 1650x1080 anti-glare screen ever exist?
No one here knows the answer to either of these questions.
3. Could I get a 15" with gloss and buy something like this;
http://www.photodon.com/MBP3-450x339.jpg
Sure you could. $40 might not be too much for you to pay to find out whether or not you could get it applied satisfactorily (a real chore with any film) and live with the fuzzy image it would give you. The distance between the LCD and the antiglare film (at least the thickness of the glass, and I'm not sure whether there's also a narrow airspace between the LCD and the glass) is likely to appear to be filled with a pea-soup fog. But you won't know what it looks like until you try it.
You write, "Being full-time in web development/startups, I'm anti-glare only", as though the two things were clearly related. They aren't. Lots of people do web development on glossy displays. Have you tried one to see how you like it?

New MBP Core2Duo - just my observation

I just switched over from my MB. I loved the size of the MB, but the features and bigger screen combined with the faster processor and 128mb video card made up my mind. I just wanted to say my new MBP is runs much cooler that my old MB and my first older MBP. Have a great day!

Thanks for posting, good to know!

New MBP Backup to previous TM HD

Hi Everyone -
So I have just purchased a new MBP (amazing!). I would like to start backing it up to my External LaCie Drive. The drive has one TM partition with 200GB (another partition for other files). I had been using this partition for my previous MacBook - so it now has only 7GB of free space.
What should I do? Begin the first backup?
70GBs have been used on the new MBP.
I would like to keep some of the files on the old TM backup until I am sure they are not needed and I can reorganize them on the new MBP.
Would it be possible to make a new partition without reformatting the external drive?
thank you!

You can backup to the same TM partition, but I'm pretty sure TM will want to create an entirely separate backup of the new computer. If you use the same computer name (Sharing preferences) then it's possible that TM may be nice and simply continue to use the same old TM backup set.
Now, your TM backup partition should be at least twice the size of the drive it backs up. Yours seems a bit small, especially if TM insists on making a new backup set. You can create another partition on the same drive if you have the space:
To resize the drive do the following:
1. Open Disk Utility and select the drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list.
2. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window. You should see the graphical sizing window showing the existing partitions. A portion may appear as a blue rectangle representing the used space on a partition.
3. In the lower right corner of the sizing rectangle for each partition is a resizing gadget. Select it with the mouse and move the bottom of the rectangle upwards until you have reduced the existing partition enough to create the desired new volume's size. The space below the resized partition will appear gray. Click on the Apply button and wait until the process has completed. +(Note: You can only make a partition smaller in order to create new free space.)+
4. Click on the [+] button below the sizing window to add a new partition in the gray space you freed up. Give the new volume a name, if you wish, then click on the Apply button. Wait until the process has completed.
You should now have a new volume on the drive.

HD up-size on new MBP-SR

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