Histograms: luminosity or saturation?

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I've been learning Photoshop for quite a while, I've done lots of tutorials and read a few books, but I can't find the answer to this simple thing: In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation.
In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm obviously missing something, but I don't know what. Can anyone help?...I'm using PS 3 Extended.

On Sat, 11 Oct 2008 12:38:05 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
Good questions. It's no wonder that the histogram tool is a bit confusing,
since very little is said about it in the PS documentation. There are five
histogram "modes", RGB, red, green, blue, luminosity, and colors.
> 1) In the histogram Palette ( and indeed in Levels) do the color channel histograms
> represent luminosity ( which I take to be brightness) or color saturation? (These
> are presumably separate entities).
Speaking only of RGB images, the red, green, and blue channel histograms
are the first ones to sort out. They represent the number of values
(0-255) of each color channel. The Color histogram is a superimposed
display of red, green, and blue histograms. The absolute height of the
peaks in the histogram is determined by the height of the maximum peak, and
this is done on a per channel basks.
> 2)Does the black RGB histogram represent a composite of the 3 color
> channels( as I think you've said ) or the grey tonal values? If the
> former, why do we use it to adjust tones ie. make the image darker
> or lighter,increase contrast etc?
The black RGB histogram is a combined view of the histograms for each of
the three channels, however all the channels are vertically scaled by the
same amount, instead of being scaled individually per channel. This means
that the location of the peaks for each individual channel stays the same,
but that the height of each peak will be smaller for two of the channels.
> 3) What is the luminosity option for in the Histogram Palette and why is there not one in Levels?
Luminosity is calculated by taking the weighted sum of the red, green, and
blue values for each pixel. The weight is smaller for blue, since it is
the darkest color, and largest for green. This corresponds closely to the
histogram seen in many camera displays, and is the reason that clipping can
occur, but not show in the histogram.
> 4)In the channels palette, do the greyscale images for each channel represent colors,
> or are there really greyscale images behind each color channel?
Each channel is a grayscale image. For RGB, each image can be thought of
as providing a certain amount of red, green, or blue to the image.
> 5) Do Curves adjustments increase saturation or brightness ie. Luminosity.
Again, speaking only in RGB, Curves can increase saturation and luminosity
in a variety of ways, since saturation, hue, and luminosity information is
mixed together in each of the red, green, and blue channels. Many people
find that working in the Lab color mode is simpler, since the L channel
contains all the luminosity information, and a and b contain independent
color information. Try Lab - you might like it very much indeed.
> 6) Why is there a black channel in CMYK if each channel has its own greyscale image?
The black channel borrows data, more or less equally, from the C, M, and Y
images. This produces a fourth channel, called K, that provides excellent
control over shadows and textures. Since the CMY channels contain more
color information, they provide a very sensitive adjustment for color,
which is good for things like skin tone variation.
> As you can see, I am having problems understanding what precisely color channels
> are, and also what exactly histograms are telling us.
It takes a while for all of this to sink in, but it does not require a PhD.
Things like additive and subtractive color, and the idea that organizing
color data into different color models, such as RGB, Lab, HSB, and CMYK can
provide leverage.
> I realise this might be a tall order for a forum such as this but I would appreciate
> any help you can give.
I think it's important to work these things out from basic principles, as
you are doing. Grab a book by Dan Margulis, and some light bulbs will
start to turn on regarding the different color spaces.
BTW - histograms are a poor tool for color correction. If there are
problems with clipping or other issues, it is much better to look at the
individual channels of the image, rather than the histogram.

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    I have an image shot in a forest, with a footbridge over a stream and a path in it. It has a lot of green, naturally, and a few blown out places in addition to dark shadows. While I like it, I've always found it a little flat.
    Looking at the histogram under levels adjustment, the left side of the "mountain" is right up against the zero point of the graph, so I never bothered to try tweaking it.
    But yesterday I noticed that, if I use the histogram palette and change the drop-down box to "Luminosity", then the left side of the mountain is a bit to the right of the zero point on the graph. Curious, I switched to the levels adjustment, selected the black eyedropper, and clicked in the darkest part of the image that I could find. The colors became much deeper -- especially the greens -- and even the blown out parts look better. Some of the shadows are maybe a bit too dark, but overall it's a nicer photo. And I noticed that on the histogram palette, the luminosity mountain is up against the zero point of the graph now.
    So, finally my questions. What exactly is luminosity? And is it always preferable to use the black eyedropper rather than the little slider on the levels adjuster, as I had always done before? Is there a way to see a luminosity "mountain" in the levels adjuster, rather than just RGB or the individual colors? And for that matter, what is RGB?

    "What exactly is luminosity?"
    Luminosity is a representation of the brightness of an image separate from the color/hue. A histogram of the luminosity will show a pretty reliable map of the tonal range of an image. Adjusting the range of the red, green and blue histograms so they cover a full range of tone may be a better correction in Levels than using Luminosity mode as the r,g,b sliders will correct for some color casts and shifting that luminosity will not.
    "And is it always preferable to use the black eyedropper rather than the little slider on the levels adjuster, as I had always done before?"
    I would stick with the slider adjustments. The eyedropper is convenient, but not easy to control, and not as accurate.
    "Is there a way to see a luminosity "mountain" in the levels adjuster, rather than just RGB or the individual colors?"
    If I think about this, there might be an easier way, but this will give you the right view of the histogram:
    1. Create two new layers at the top of the layer stack for the image you are working on. Name the bottom of these two layers Commit and the upper Source.
    2. Activate the Source layer and stamp visible to the layer (Ctrl+Alt+Shift+E/Command+Option+Shift+E [PC/Mac]), then set the layer mode to Luminosity. At this point the image will look the same.
    3. Activate the Commit layer and fill it with 50% gray (Use Edit>Fill Layer). After the fill the image will appear to be grayscale.
    4. Activate the Source layer again and merge down. Name the resulting layer Luminosity.
    5. Create a new Levels adjustment layer and view the histogram. You will see that this result is a somewhat different representation than you get from the RGB graph.
    "And for that matter, what is RGB?"
    RGB is red, green and blue...it is a light-based color model where the set of these three colors mixed in different amounts make up the total set of available colors. 100% of red, green and blue is white, 0% of each is black and even amounts of each is gray (at varying brightness depending on the percentage). RGB theory is what much of digital imaging is based on and much of what my book relies on to help people with color and other corrections.
    Richard Lynch

  • Aperture and it's Histogram

    Hi. Sorry if must of you already know this information but I've done extensive testing with my images and the Aperture Histogram. I've been posting on another thread where it really does not belong so I thought I would just repeat here. I hope you don't mind but I've found that a few people really have a rough time getting their heads around the Histogram and to me, a) Aperture's is the very best and most acurate when it comes to capturing the Midtones and b) It's ALL ABOUT THE MIDTONES in your images.
    So......
    There is a very small difference between RAW and jPEG IF you know how to expose correctly. I mean very small difference. If your shooting in RAW with the hopes of adding Photoshop sludge to "compensate" for the lace of proper exposure you will never be happy with your photography. Never.
    Here is my suggestion:
    Learn, in great detail, about your histogram. EVERYTHING in the digital world is about MIDTONES, meaning between 1 and 254. I can promise you once you really learn about the histogram and Midtones you may never go back to RAW again. Really invest the time you I'll bet anything your photography will go up at least a huge level.
    It drives me nutz when someone says, "oh, your histogram should be like a camel hump" or even better, for RAW photographers, "Just move the right or left slider over to where the beginning of the "Hump" begins" AGH!!
    Learn about that Histogram, shoot a gray card and play with your exposure until you see that shot of the graycard have a spike right at the 128 mark (middle) and then use that same exposure for your shot.
    I promise, the time it takes you to do this, will be much less time it take you to process a single RAW image, and the output of your work will be tens of folds better.
    There are lot's of resources out there, understand digital exposure and how it relates to the histogram and you'll fall in love with your images.
    How I check out a gram before I make a purchase, and I did this with both trail versions of Aperture and LR, is take a picture of my son wearing his black shirt.
    Now, I'm sure all of you, or most, know that the Histogram represents black to white, or, 0 to 255.
    1 thru 254 is your midtone. So taking a picture of my son, close up in his black shirt should have a huge spike at 0, correct? NO. 0 is complete black or the deep fold under his arm in a shadow etc.... His shirt has wrinkles, creases, shades from lighting etc... this is what makes my image 3D. These are also called the midtones, even if they appear black to you or me on our eyes, they are midtones. That's what I'm looking for when I look at the histogram and that's why I chose Aperture and made the purchase. It's that darn great to me.
    White, or 255, of course is not white. 255 will be things like a chrome bumper in the sun, etc.... the polarbear in the snow is not white, it's all shades of grey but will of course be on the right side, or at least more information will be on the right side, of your histogram.
    Working with Aperture for awhile now, I've found the best way to capture my midtones is going into my camera's menu and taking down both the contrast and Saturation one level. The difference to me when I first learned this was mind blowing. My midtones where gaining by a huge margin in Aperture's Histogram but not as much in LR. I was capturing more midtones or making my image more 3D and as we live in a 3D world, much more lifelike.
    My outside shots jumped a great deal in the midtone area when I really learned how to use fill flash. Here's a simple test. Take a picture of your subject without fill flash in manual, then add fill flash with a difusser but take the same exposure down just one stop. Look at both in your histogram.
    Bottom line is Aperture's reading or representation of my captured image regarding the Mid-Tone range is really wonderful.
    When you take images as suggested before, open up your histogram in Aperture, then go into your Mac ~ Apps/Util folder and open up the Digital Color Meter. Run this meter over your image and watch how the sync or compare to the Aperture Histogram. Fun to do but a great learning tool to learn about your Aperture Histogram.
    I'm sorry if most or any of you know this but I simply find the Aperture histogram one of the best I've ever seen and would like to help anyone that could use a better understanding of it.
    (in my old light I was a fiber optic engineer, but I'm much better now.)

    Hi David, and I'm sorry, I should have taken it to the next step.
    So do this.....
    Open you color meter and the image you are working on in Photoshop.
    Run your color meter over the image until you get a value around 128 for each, not perfect but get close.
    Make a new Curves layer, now when the curves window opens up, take the middle eyedropper and go back to the area whereas your color meter read 128. Click on that spot with your color meter.
    You've just told your image where the MidTone is for that specific image. This should also remove any color cast in your image as well.
    Now, back to aperture, i meant it's simply fun and a great learning tool to go over your image with the digital color meter and relate it to the Aperture Histogram. You can actually learn about midtones and values this way. For example, if I'm running my + over a underarm shadow and can relate the numbers to the histogram and then move it and watch the values in relation between the image and the Aperture histogram.
    This is frankly how I found Aperture to have the most acurate histogram between products.
    It really is a good way to learn.
    A bit tedious now, but when you learn this it truly is a giant leap into making better images.
    Best,
    Tom

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