Horrible LAN pings on all Apple hardware
So I have a MBP 15" (latest), a MBA 13" (late 2011) and a MBP 13" (a bit earlier, but pretty recent) an iPhone 4s and an iPhone 4 on my LAN with a dual-band time-capsule with an express N in "extend a network" mode. On the 15" MBP if I ping google.com I get a rock solid 50ms ping time (+/- 5ms):
PING google.com (74.125.225.98): 56 data bytes
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=0 ttl=53 time=48.366 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=1 ttl=53 time=52.572 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=2 ttl=53 time=53.063 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=3 ttl=53 time=52.277 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=4 ttl=53 time=52.545 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=5 ttl=53 time=53.017 ms
64 bytes from 74.125.225.98: icmp_seq=6 ttl=53 time=52.616 ms
If I ping a machine that's on the time-capsule ethernet, I get this:
PING 10.0.1.5 (10.0.1.5): 56 data bytes
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=0 ttl=64 time=642.520 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=1 ttl=64 time=129.652 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=2 ttl=64 time=153.549 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=3 ttl=64 time=176.083 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=4 ttl=64 time=324.919 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=5 ttl=64 time=7.797 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=6 ttl=64 time=771.227 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=7 ttl=64 time=701.933 ms
Request timeout for icmp_seq 8
Request timeout for icmp_seq 9
Request timeout for icmp_seq 10
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=11 ttl=64 time=3.867 ms
Request timeout for icmp_seq 12
Request timeout for icmp_seq 13
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=14 ttl=64 time=4.644 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=15 ttl=64 time=683.825 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=16 ttl=64 time=2.300 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=17 ttl=64 time=525.720 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=18 ttl=64 time=445.582 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=19 ttl=64 time=4.635 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=20 ttl=64 time=287.609 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=21 ttl=64 time=2.059 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=22 ttl=64 time=207.607 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=23 ttl=64 time=4.567 ms
64 bytes from 10.0.1.5: icmp_seq=24 ttl=64 time=584.469 ms
I've tried from every machine on the network and going to every machine and the LAN pings are all horrible. If time-machine is running it's even worse. I'm an experienced software engineer and have written a lot of network code, so I understand how an OS uses networks, but this kind of performance just blows my mind - I can't explain it. People seem to be "fixing it" by dumping Apple network hardware for far cheaper Linksys, D-link, etc. Is that the answer?
That's really sad if so. For what it cost me to have an all Apple infrastructure it should "just work".
Thanks,
Mike
So If I understand your network arrangement:
modem <--ethernet cable--> Airport (of some kind) <---wireless--> Airport Time Capsul <--ethernet--> BMP15.
or is it
modem <--ethernet cable--> Airport Time Capsul <--ethernet--> BMP15.
Also waht is the arragnement when you get the 50-60 ms?
is it modem <--ethernet cable--> BMP15?
Similar Messages
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Why are Sony headsets incompatible with Apple hardware?
Hello,
Close to one year ago, I had to get my iPod touch 2G replaced due to a defective headphone jack. One staff member at the Apple store told me that Sony, Skullcandy, and some other brands of headphones have a slightly larger plug which wrecks the jack on iPods over time because Sony and Skullcandy (among other brands) have headphone jacks that are just slightly larger than the others. This seems like a reasonable explanation to me.
What I'm wondering is: is this slightly larger jack size exclusive to only a few brands, or does it extend to all brands except Apple's own earbuds? (which would be ridiculous) Secondly, why does this problem occur with ALL Apple hardware, including their computers? (My iMac G5 has the same issue my old iPod touch did.) Do the engineers at Apple not realize that Sony headphones are the choice of not only many home users, such as myself, but also many respected creative professionals around the world? Seeing how Apple hardware is used extensively by these "creative" professionals, such as musicians and music producers, what exactly is the reasoning for making Apple hardware incompatible with these jack sizes? Is there any work around for this incompatibility, such as some kind of headphone adapter I can pick up at Radio Shack?
Since I know that some users here will inevitably believe that I am thick-headed enough to confuse 1/4" jack with the 3.5mm variety, allow me to make it explicitly clear that I am not trying to somehow use a 1/4" jack with my iPod! (that is not even physically possible...)
Also, if anyone knows where I could contact Apple for some sort of official statement of this matter, I would be quite grateful.musicmannn wrote:
One staff member at the Apple store told me that Sony, Skullcandy, and some other brands of headphones have a slightly larger plug which wrecks the jack on iPods over time because Sony and Skullcandy (among other brands) have headphone jacks that are just slightly larger than the others. This seems like a reasonable explanation to me.
Well it doesn't to me.
What I'm wondering is: is this slightly larger jack size exclusive to only a few brands, or does it extend to all brands except Apple's own earbuds?
In which case, that would suggest that the Apple jack is smaller than every other make, not that everyone else has a larger "plug". But I don't accept "a difference in size" as any sort of explanation. In fact, I think such an explanation is complete rubbish!
Other than that, I agree with Kappy, why would you post a problem about a Sony product on an Apple forum?
What can happen though, is that the back end headphone plug (the bit you grip to remove the plug) can be pushed against other objects when the iPod is in your pocket or bag and then the business end of the plug (the front bit that goes into the socket) is levered over, pushing the headphone jack over as well, and that causes the connection between the socket and the circuit board to break. Hence the problem.
The solution (to minimise the risk of broken headphone jacks) is to ensure that the plug cannot be pushed over while it's in your bag or pocket. I purchased a right-angled 3.5mm adaptor (http://www.keene.co.uk/electronics/multi.php?mycode=KA178) which reduces strain on the socket. In additon, do not leave the plug inserted with the headphone cord wrapped tight around the device when you're not using it, because once again, that will strain the connection inside the iPod.
Phil -
There is a URL with all my apple hardware. When I sell a iPhone, I must cancel it from the list - how does it function?
There is no requirement that you add or delete items, but it can be helpful. The URL is https://supportprofile.apple.com/ and to delete, you click the "Edit Products" button near the top right of that page.
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My windows based itunes is not finding any of my apple hardware when it is plugged into my computer. Could someone please tell me what i need to do to fix it. i have already uninstalled and reinstalled itunes.
Restart the computer.
Try plugging into a different USB port on the computer.
Try a different sync cable. -
Fan runs all the time.. Apple Hardware Test Error
The fan on my 13" Macbook Pro recently started running continously. I tried resseting the SMC per directions on the apple support page, when that didnt work I ran the Apple Hardware Test from my install cd, and got the following error: 4SNS/1/4000000 : TNOD-128.000
I've googled everywhere, and can't find what that means!
Any ideas?Hi Alex FLB, welcome to Apple Discussions!
I had this exact error code (4SNS/1/4000000) on my iMac a couple months ago, along with the same symptoms. The code refers to one or more faulty temperature sensors on the logic board of the unit. Because the MBP isn't getting a reading from a temperature sensor, it has no idea what the actual temperature of the computer is, so it runs the fans at high speed in a fail-safe mode to prevent damage.
What this means is that you'll have to either take the machine to an Apple store or call Applecare over the phone to initiate a repair. Tell them the symptoms, and have them run the AHT or give them the code. If the machine is still under the one year warranty (or Applecare) then the logic board should be replaced free of charge for you. It's the only way to replace these temperature sensors, as they are incorporated into the board itself and cannot be separated from it.
If you Google "AHT 4SNS/1/4000000" then you may be able to find more information!
--Travis -
Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.
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I want to run Apple Hardware Text but can't find it on any CD's. I bought my iMac in 2009. It came with 10.4. Apple Hardware Test is not on the installation disk. Should I have it? Where can I find it? I"m now running 10.7.4.
The disc plainly state:
To use the AHT, hold down the D key as the computer starts up.
Works here. However, there was an issue with installing Lion that screwed this process up.
Mount disc 2, run this command in the Terminal app, OPTION-click & hold Finder's Dock icon, and select RELAUNCH:
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles 1
That unhides all hidden files/folders.
Now, drill down to /"Applications Install\ Disc"/System/Library/CoreServices/ and drag the .diagnostics folder into your Lion boot volume's /System/Library/CoreServices/ folder. That might require you to authenticate to copy the folder into the CoreServices subfolder.
Run this command to hide the normally hidden files/folders and RELAUNCH the Finder again.
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles 0
This should allow the machine to boot into AHT when restarting and holding down the D key.
If that doesn't do the trick, run this command in the Terminal app:
sudo chown -R root:wheel /System/Library/CoreServices/.diagnostics
At the Password: prompt, carefully type in your admin password, since nothing shows up on the screen, and hit the return key. Then, try another restart, holding down the D key. -
Can't boot off Apple Hardware Test disk
Can anyone suggest why my laptop won't boot off of its Apple Hardware Test disk anymore? I have not tried it in years, but want to try now. I have the original, and a copy I made years ago, and neither will boot. I can select them at startup disks in that preference pane in OSX, but then it fails to find it, and boots into OSX. I can boot into OS9 on the hard drive. I was able to partially boot off of a different AHT disk from my 12" Albook G4, but it gave the message that I can't use that disk since it is not meant for the Tibook. One idea is that TechTool tells me that "macintosh startup file was absent", and the Help file states:
"The Startup file is intended for use by systems that do not have built-in ROM support for booting from HFS Extended volumes. The first eight extents of the Startup File are stored in the Volume Header. This makes them easy to locate and read into memory. This file contains information used by the computer’s ROM to determine what program will boot the computer. In almost every case, this will be configured to point to the preferred System."
But it does not tell me how to restore this Startup file.
-how can i get my startup file back?
-my computer boots fine off the hard drive, so is this file used only to boot off a CD?
-any ideas why i can't boot off my AHT CD?Hi, t. (That alias of yours sure is a mouthful.) I think in your shoes I would pose the question to the tech support people at Micromat (TechTool's developer). It's their error message, after all, and they should be able to explain it to you in as much detail as you need. Perhaps they'll shed some light on the original problem in the process.
-
Cannot start-up to the Apple Hardware Test — MacBook Pro & Lion
Whenever I try holding the D key before and throughout all of the start-up process, it simply makes the grey screen appear for longer, and slow the whole process... but never beings the Apple Hardware Test.
I'm following Apple's official instructions:
To start up your computer in Apple Hardware Test:
Press the power button to turn on your computer.
Press and hold the D key before the gray startup screen appears. An Internet-enabled connection via Ethernet or Wi-Fi is required to use this feature.
Note: Some Macintosh computers that shipped with OS X Lion support the use of Apple Hardware Test over the Internet. These computers will start up to an Internet-based version of AHT if the hard drive does not contain AHT.
Why doesn't it work?
My MBP was shipped as follows:
For Apple computers that shipped with Mac OS X v10.5.5 to 10.6.7, Apple Hardware Test is located on the Applications Install Disc 2 and should be included with your computer.
But I have upgraded to Lion! Do I need the disk still? If so, why am I to lumber around a disk from a previous OS... good that I didn't throw it out!I'm trying to find the answer to a similiar question. Here's my thread.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3549995 -
Can I run apple hardware disk from a clone of the Install disk 2 on an external hard drive?
I have just installed a new SATA cable and HDD and want to check everything is in order. I don't have my original disks with me, but I do have copies of both disks on an external hard drive. Can I use that to run Apple Hardware Test on my machine?
If nothing else works, give this a try:
1. Right click on iPhoto
2. Click on Package contents
3. Look for file name "Master"
4. Right click on it and click copy
5. On your desktop right click and paste.
The "Master" file has all the orginal pictures and movies. You can then burn them with toast! Good luck!
Snatch -
Apple Hardware Test (AHT) Hard Drive Full Read Fail But SMART Status OK
I have a Mac mini Server from Mid 2010 running Snow Leopard Server.
Ocassionally, it'll freeze up with the spinning beachball wheel for a few minutes. This usually happens when opening an app or performing an app function from the menu bar. It's a pretty clean system—there are not many apps installed.
I suspect it's a hadrware issue. I ran Disk Utility's Permission and Disk Repair. All good. SMART Status is verified. So I ran the Apple Hardware Test. Everything passes except for the Hard Drive's "Full Read"—it fails because "Reading took longer than the average time". The Hard Drive "Short .. test" and "Check SMART Status" pass.
Does anyone have an idea of what's going on here? Is the hard drive the issue? I don't understand how there can be a read issue (or hard drive issue), when the SMART Status is verfied.S.M.A.R.T isn't perfect. Neither is AHT for that matter, but if it is reporting that reading is taking longer than it should then an impending failure is likely. The occasional "wait cursor" appearance supports that diagnosis.
Consider yourself fortunate in that you still have the ability to back up anything important, and you can plan a convenient time for its replacement. -
Error Code After Running Apple Hardware Test
I ran apple hardware test (I'm having problems where my computer freezes for like 10 seconds with the mouse being movable... but it happens very frequently. like once a minute. it's SOOO ANNOYING)
this is the error i got after running apple hardware test:
(it came out as a Mass Storage error... which is Hard Disk i guess)
**ERROR*CODE***ERROR*CODE**
2STF/8/3: S-ATA Bus 0-Master
**ERROR*CODE***ERROR*CODE**
Does anyone know what I can do to fix it. Apple Hardware Test only allows me to find the error and then restart or shut down... which is useless cause what is the error code supposed to mean. I've only got Apple 1 yr repair support left... so I cant call up Apple or anything. Does anyone know anything about this and what I could do to fix it!?
I know about this: http://www.apple.com/support/imac/repairextensionprogram/
I might go to the apple store, but I dont wanna make a trip out there for nothing.
Does anyone know what I can do or should I just take it to the apple store.Actually, i just spent like 1 hr working with disk utility using the os x install disk and i think it finally worked. im so happy for myself! yay... i wouldnt accept no for an answer. Disk utility kept saying "oh first aid failed because it didnt exit right" or something... total garbage response... i kept pressing verify disk and then repair disk and then i did the verify permissions and repair permissions too... didnt really know what i was doing with the permissions... but it finally worked so thats all that mattered! yay... its back to normal!!
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G4 that will not boot from any disc EXCEPT the Apple Hardware Test CD
We have a DP 1ghz Quicksilver PowerMac G4 that will not boot from any disc EXCEPT the Apple Hardware Test CD that came with the machine.
We were in the process of installing 10.4 Tiger before placing it for sale.
The Mac was originally OSX Server 10.1 that we later converted to a worksation running 10.3 Panther.
It has 1 GB of memory, 80GB hardrive, 250MB Zip Drive and a Radeon 7500 video card.
Since this machine only has a CD-R drive and not a DVD-R, we installed Tiger using another Mac via Target Disk Mode. The installation process went well, but when I tried to reboot I got a Kernel Panic right after startup screen with the grey Apple logo.
On some reboots we get to the blue startup screen, others it stops at the grey Apple logo, others a black box like the a Kernel Panic - but with no text. Twice it went directly into Open Firmware.
We have done the following during our troubleshooting:
- Reseat RAM, Video Card, Hard Drive, Zip & CD-R connections
- Remove RAM 1 stick at a time and reboot
- Replace RAM with RAM from another working Quicksilver
- Replace Video Card with one from another working Quicksilver
- Zap PRAM
- Reset CUDA switch
- Unplug the MAC and remove everything (RAM, Battery, etc) for 30 minutes and try to reboot
- Tried booting from the Macintosh Server G4 Software Restore CD
- Tried booting from Mac OS X Server CD
- Tried booting from AppleCare Protection Plan CD with TechTool
- Tried booting from Diskwarrior CD
- Tried booting from an external FireWire drive with a disk image of Tiger OS Install
- Tried booting with the hard drive disconnected
The Mac WILL boot from the Apple Hardware Test CD and will pass ALL of the extended tests.Conventional wisdom says that any Mac that will not boot up from a System/Install CD OS 9 or an Install CD Mac OS X, has a Hardware problem.
The diagnostic CD is a red herring because it uses a very primitive method of reading the CD, and so does not properly represent the machines general ability to read CDs.
I would look at the CD drive cables, etc, and see if another drive gives different results.
You have not mentioned using the Startup Manager (option key at Startup) to do any checking:
HT1310- Startup Manager: How to select a startup volume -
Won't Boot to Apple Hardware Test or accept Boot Commands
Hi All,
I would appreciate some help with this issue, I am trying to boot up to the Apple Hardware Test on my Install Disk 1 that shipped with my MacBook Pro 2.4GHz Model #A1226 ordered new with 4 gigs of memory (around Aug. 2007). I am currently running 10.5.6 and the install disk of course contains the Tiger OS. I have nothing plugging into my computer, other than the Power Adapter. I have the proper install disk inserted in the computer and am holding down the "d" key on my built in keyboard throughout startup, but it will not go to the AHT. It simply boots to the normal login screen for Leopard. In fact the only boot commands that I see any visible or audible confirmation that it has taken effect is the option key, taking me to selecting a Startup Manager and holding down the Power Button gives me a tone from the internal speaker after a few seconds.
Below are what I have tried with seemingly no effect:
"d"
"c"
"t"
Option-Command-"p"-"r" (no beeps)
Command-"v"
Command-"s"
Shift (not sure I should see or hear any confirmation, I don't have any login items set right now so I can't tell if it has any effect)
I have not tried an of the networked drive boot commands as I don't have any networked drives
The only way I have been able to boot from either the optical drive or another disk is either holding down the option key during boot up or selecting the drive from the startup manager in system preferences.
I can't seem to access the AHT an in any way. The reason I am trying to access it is because I have had a few weird intermittent problems that I can't put my finger on and would like to be able to rule hardware out.
I also just replaced my HD with a WD 320 gig drive after my original drive failed due to a physical error. I just restored my data, and all seems to be running well after a permissions repair and a disk repair while booted up on my install disk.
The intermittent problems I was talking about are very vague and rare so I is difficult to describe them other that just a hunch that something is still a bit off. One is the display, every once in a while, showing what looks like a massive bar code or UPC code on my screen. This is not like the bands with soft edges that seem to be a well documented issue with the early MBP but transparent lines of alternating width and brightness with hard edges. Again it looks just like a UPC code transposed on my screen. The other items are random freezing of the OS or the mouse and the fact that my keyboard does not respond to any but a few boot commands. Again all the things are either rare and intermittent or do not come up in daily use of my machine. But when taken together, seem to add up to the conclusion there is still some issue present (at least in my mind).
To recap my specific questions relate to not being able to run the Apple Hardware Test and many of the boot commands having no effect. If you can shed light on the other items mentioned, great!
Thank you!At a guess, I would think this error code has to do with the video artifacts you are experiencing. You might try reseating all the cables to the display. If the position of the screen makes a difference, there may be damage to a cable, particularly where it goes through the hinge.
Apple is the keeper of the error codes. If you have access to an Apple Store, you could probably ask about this.
Don't know about the other intermittent problems. Does an external keyboard work? If so, there's likely a problem with the internal, maybe even again, a cable or connection.
You could also try creating a new use account and see if the keyboard and mouse problems persist. If not, there could be some sort of software corruption in your usual account. Ditto with the freezing.
Good luck! -
Apple Wireless Keyboard with Windows 7 on non Apple Hardware
Good Day,
I love the Apple Wireless Keyboard and it's the on I use when using my Thinkpad laptop as a desktop, meaning connected to an external Monitor and with an external keyboard and mouse. The Keyboard I use is an Apple Wireless Keyboard.
On my MBA 13 I use Windows 7 as my OS and the Apple lyouted keyboard works actually quite well with windows: The function keys perform very much like in Mac OSX with the volume, screen brightness, the fn+left or right for "home" or "end" etc.
Not I bought an Apple Wireless Keyboard to use in conjuction with my Thinkpad but all does features are missing. I guess that this has to to that on the MBA 13 the appropriate drivers where installed when the whole Bootcamp Software package was installed.
Since I obviously cant install the whole Bootcamp CD on non Apple Hardware, is there any way to just download somewhere the drivers for Apple KEyboards so the behave the same way as they would on a Mac running Windows?
Or is there any other way I could use my Apple Wireless Keyboard with non Apple Hardware the same way it behaves on my MBA 13 running Windows 7? Can somwhere lolely the Apple Keyboard drivers be downloaded?
I want to thank anyone who is kind enough to help mme with this mather in advance and please leave out comments of the kind that I it's my fault, I should have bought an Apple machine from the beginning. I have my reasons and If anyone can't handle that I kindly ask you to just ignore this post unless it's constructive and helpful contribution
Message was edited by: ApollossAfter 3 frustrating hours of trying every tip on the net, I found the answer: Try this.
"This finally fixed it for me: Device Manager - Open System Devices, you will find a Bluetooth HID Device. Double Click it, open Driver tab and click "Update Driver" Select Browse my Computer, then "Let me Pick". It should now show TWO compatible drivers with exactly the same name. One of them is the Microsoft one, one is the non-working Chinese ****. Install one of them and see if the driver properties changed to the right (Microsoft) driver. If not, try again with the other one. For me, the Microsoft driver was the first one in the list, but this may be different for you. Wow, an annoying and intense hour of trouble shooting finally over..."
Source: http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-windows_update/window s-update-yi-ruan-bluetooth-hid-device-driver/5bfd0c92-1771-e011-8dfc-68b599b31bf 5?page=2&tm=1304484508563
The issue is related to the Chinese version of the driver that the latest windows update applies that stops the keyboard from working.
I'm typing this on the Apple Wireless Keyboard on Windows 7 64 bit on my PC. Finallly!
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