How do I know if the Power Supply is shot?

Hi, I have G5 with a dual processor, purchased in 2003. I recently bought a new iMac and wanted to give the old G5 to a family member. The G5 just went dead, I think it took it personally.... I have done the resetting of the PMU, I have replaced the lithium battery. Nothing. Is there any way to test the other things to know what's dead? Is the power supply the next logical culprit? I know this computer isn't worth much but I'd like to have it limp along for another year. Any hints or ideas would be appreciated. I have been a huge fan of Discussions but this is my first post. Thank you.

WrightBrayne wrote:
I recently bought a new iMac and wanted to give the old G5 to a family member. The G5 just went dead, I think it took it personally....
Many moons ago, my previously trouble-free Mac IISI died less than a week after my Power Mac 7600 arrived. Spooky, ain't it?
Hope you were able to resuscitate your G5.

Similar Messages

How do I know what model Power Supply to buy?

I have a 2007 Mac Pro 3Ghz and I was wondering if the power supply I need is just the one for this year or is it determined by something else like my model number or what.
I have really only seen one out there for just like 2006-2007 Mac Pro but there was one that said 8x in the name also for a 2006-2007 and this is an 8-core so maybe that is the right one.
Thanks
I had out the power supply today and I never screwed it back in so I guess it may have a sticker or stamp on it I can check tomorrow. To tired to look now it's 3AM.

I believe this is the want you want:
http://www.welovemacs.com/6614001.html
To be sure I would contact the sales staff indicated in the link. It also lists the EEE code at the bottom of the link in the Notes section which you can compare to your power supply since you already have it out.
Message was edited by: Martin Pace

HT3964 how do I check if the power supply is faulty?

My daughter's iMac 24" has failed to restart after a power outage at her apartment. It's plugged in and the power button pressed but - nothing. Once before when a similar thing happened to me I vaguely remember having the back of the achine off and powering it up. There was an internal button to be pressed and a series of lights - LEDs - lit up on a board in the back of the computer. Depending on which ones lit up - and which ones didn't - you have a quick diagnosis of the probable fault. I've forgtten the process.
Does any one know what I'm talking about?

i do not know about what your description sounds to be a sort of reset button, but I will sugest you unplug everything from the computer, and everything that was connected to your computer from the power strip for ten minutes.
Connect the computer to power, connect the router to power connect computer to router, and power up and come back telling us what happens then.
One by one, plug things back into power then the computer if you have othe peripherals...
Does anything change as one of them is connected?
Did you remember to unplug the power strip and replug it and TURN IT On?

If plugged into the power supply, should the Cinema Display A1081 standby light come on without being plugged into a mac

I was given an old Cinema Display A1081 a few years ago. I am trying to test it and want to know if plugged into the power supply, should the standby light come on without being plugged into a mac? I don't want to buy a DVI to mini display adapter if it isn't working. One thing I did do was plug Monitor power in and then the USB plulg into my PC laptop and my iPhone charger USB plug into the back of the monitor. I am able to charge my iPhone this way so I know that the power supply is working. But I can't tell if the monitor itself is workign as no ligths are on. (PS: I am purchasing my first Mac so I am a complete newb but very proficient with PCs) Thanks so much for your help.

These Apple tech notes may help:
How to use your PowerBook G4, MacBook Pro or MacBook with the display closed
How to use your PowerBook G4, MacBook or MacBook Pro with the display closed and a Bluetooth keyboard or mouse
Just a final question about Sleep mode - does this have any negative effects on the life or performance of the laptop? I'm so used to Shutting down the laptop each day that I worry about Sleep mode having some sort of drain on the components or something.
There are only two practical differences between Sleep and Shut Down:
1. Sleep will wake instantly, so you don't have to wait for startup.
2. Sleep will drain a new, fully charged battery after several days without being woken or plugged in. If you shut down, the battery charge lasts much longer. Obviously, if you only sleep it overnight, you'll still have plenty of battery left in the morning.
Don't sleep it more frequently than necessary, though. Frequently turning the backlight and hard drive off and on can shorten their life. Just do what's reasonable. I usually leave mine awake until I have to transport it in a bag, along with sleeping it overnight. On battery, I'll sleep it more often to preserve battery.

How to check the power supply? iMac G3 233

How to do it?
Can i just take the case with the mainboard out and "short" the pins Power on (pin 8) with GND and check the voltages on the connector that comes out of the monitor case?
I know that the pin 8 is the power from articles about imac>atx case conversion.And i know that you can power up a normal ATX power supply by shortening two pins, and want to know if i can do the same with iMAc power supply. I don't want to fry anything.

Sounds like you have eliminated most of the possibilities, other than power supply board or motherboard. But it may also be the CPU daughter card that is faulty. I had one (233 MHz) that would run Mac OS 9 just fine, but it was unable to run Mac OS X reliably (crashes and freezes after a few minutes). I replaced it first with a 333 MHz G3 card off of eBay and later with a 467 MHz G4 card from the Fastmac booth at MacWorld San Francisco two years ago.
If you are comfortable disassembling the iMac to the point of removing the power supply board, you can layout the PS board and the carrier assembly (the thing you pull out with the motherboard, CPU card, and drives) on a table top. Then connect the power supply board to the carrier assembly, and connect the external power cord plug to the power supply board, and connect a keyboard with a power button to the carrier.
To measure the voltages, you can disconnect the 4-pin connector to the hard drive. If you turn it on using the power button on the keyboard, it will not start up with the hard drive not powered up (unless you use a bootable CD), but the system should be powered so that you can take your measurements.
Hope that works. Be careful with the exposed back end of the CRT. Keep any curious cats out of the room while you do this...
In case you don't have the PDF of the tray-loader iMac tech manual, it is downloadable here.
http://www.baconeggs.co.uk/manuals/index.htm

How can I replace the power supply IN the time capsule

I have a TimeCapsule that has a bad powersupply. I have opened the timecapsule to confirm this. Has anyone done this before? If so, where did the power supply come from? Cost? I took this to the Apple Igneous bar and they said there is nothing that can be done about it.They said it couldn't even be opened, but simply peeling the rubber bottom off and unscrewing a number of tiny screws and that's it. The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there. That was a bit of a surprise. I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad. I had hoped that if I removed that the AP part would at least work, but after opening it up and firing it up I could hear that the power supply was buzzing thus the conclusion it was the issue.
I am going to put the SATA drive in a reader to see that it is indeed ok. If that checks out, then I know for certain it is the power supply, but I don't know what to use as a sub since the unit needs both 12V and 5V. I'd just as soon find a good supply and use that. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John A Kostelac

What version is your TC.. A1xxx from the rubber foot?
Power supplies are not available from apple. They do not consider it repairable. It is a sealed consumable.
Power supplies are available from ebay.. simply type time capsule power supply into search.
This is absolutely standard issue that has been ongoing for ages and ages.
See https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenague/a-deconstruction-of-routers-and-modem s/apple-time-capsule-repair
For a multitude of ways to fix it.
The 1 TB drive is LOOSE in there.
No, it is not loose, it has rubber mounts with pins in the bottom base plate. You cannot see the mount points with the base off. This is standard hdd mount for low noise and vibration.
I had thought that the issue was the drive itself was bad.
Drives seldom are the problem. The Gen2 WD black has been less than great though.. and later spinpoint in Gen3 not so good.
Apple Igneous bar

HT4060 iPad will not charge if hooked by USB to pc or plugged into wall. How do I know if the problem is with iPad, cable or power adapter. I have a 12, 10 and 5W adapters no success with any. Only one lightening cable so can't swap cables.

iPad will not charge if hooked by USB to pc or plugged into wall. How do I know if the problem is with iPad, cable or power adapter. I have a 12, 10 and 5W adapters no success with any. Only one lightening cable so can't swap cables.

I'm sorry but this is too funny to pass up.

How to change the power supply to the CD/DVD Drive so that it is off by default?

When running on battery I often use the "Safely Remove Hardware" icon from XP to "unplug" the Mat****a CD/DVD drive in order to safe some battery life.(Does it?) I use Fn+Tab to bring it back to life. I wonder if there is a way to make my Notebook (M400) boot with the power supply to the Drive off by default. By the way, any idea where I can find the extra battery for the CD/DVD-Drive slot and at which price?
Thanks in advance for your help.

Hello Robert
If you check start page you will see that this support forum is not any kind of Toshiba support directly but user-to-user forum. But you are not alone and many users expect that some Toshiba support team sit in the office and wait to write answers.
Anyway there are many Toshiba notebook users with very good knowledge and also enthusiasts who try to help other guys with different issues and also share own experience.
Professionalism is not forum but action when you need assistance because of hardware damage or something similar. If you need competent answers and help every authorized service partner should be able to give you info you need. But please dont mix service partner and Toshiba because it is not the same.
Anyway I have found info that you can use additional (second expansion battery) and it should be batteries with part numbers PA3510U-1BAL and PA3510U-1BRL. I can not tell you how much it costs but you can find it alone using Google.
Back to your first question: If I am understand you right you want to save more power and because of that you want to disconnect ODD. It is nice idea but you have obviously misunderstood something. "Safely Remove Hardware option is there to help operating system and say this hardware part will be removed and dont exist anymore but it does not mean physically disconnection from other hardware.
If you need more power use second battery and enjoy your life.
If you have more questions you are welcome. Many users here have M400 and I hope in the future some of them will participate a little bit more.
Have a nice day! :)

I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug. Cold now. Could it just be the power supply? Can I replace that myself?

This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box.
I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica. Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house. I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip. There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
First questions: Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
Next question: Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service? How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder. I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook. My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed. I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
Thanks for any help you can give.

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

Use SNMP to monitor the power supply status of stacked switches

Does anybody know how to use SNMP to monitor the status of the internal power supplies of a group of stacked Cisco 3750 switches?
The switch stack has three 3750-48PS-E switches inter-connected by Cisco StackWise cable. IOS ver 12.1(19)EAlc. A single IP address is used to identify the switch stack. Every time I poll the OID chassisPs1Status (1.3.6.1.4.1.9.5.1.2.4.0 in CISCO-STACK-MIB), I only got the status for the Master switch of the switch stack. Is there any way to poll the power supply status of other switches in the switch stack?
Thanks a lot!

Sorry to refresh such an old topic - but I am stuck with exactly this: Monitoring power supplies of a stacked Cisco Catalyst 3750-E.
I'm using the exact same OID's as described, but the problem is, the information shown on the SNMP output is not correct.
This morning, a power supply of the first switch failed and switched to RPS. Here the information I got on SNMP:
snmpwalk -v 2c -c public 192.168.1.50 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.1.0 = INTEGER: 13
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.2.1006 = STRING: "SW#1, Sensor#1, GREEN "
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.2.2006 = STRING: "SW#2, Sensor#1, GREEN "
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.3.1006 = Gauge32: 41
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.3.2006 = Gauge32: 40
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.4.1006 = INTEGER: 59
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.4.2006 = INTEGER: 59
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.5.1006 = INTEGER: 0
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.5.2006 = INTEGER: 0
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.6.1006 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.3.1.6.2006 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.4.1.2.1060 = STRING: "Switch#1, Fan#1"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.4.1.2.2059 = STRING: "Switch#2, Fan#1"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.4.1.3.1060 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.4.1.3.2059 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.1059 = STRING: "Sw1, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.2060 = STRING: "Sw2, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.3.1059 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.3.2060 = INTEGER: 1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.4.1059 = INTEGER: 2
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.4.2060 = INTEGER: 2
As you see, both PS1 (for both switches) are appearing normal. It doesn't even recognize RPS:
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.1059 = STRING: "Sw1, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.13.1.5.1.2.2060 = STRING: "Sw2, PS1 Normal, RPS NotExist"
The first switch's power supply died and now the cable is disconnected. LED's of the power supply are out. And still: The switch happily announces by SNMP it's power supplies are up.
Is this a known bug? If yes, has it been fixed?
Model WS-C3750E-48TD
Firmware 12.2(37)SE1
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I just replaced the power supply in my Intel imac and now the screen is really really dark and I see the missing folder icon, what do I do?

The power supply in my Intel iMac went out (and smelled pretty burned) so I replced it and now when I start it up the display is so dark I can hardly see it and it shows the missing folder icon. Is it the inverter? Or if shine a flashlight on it and re-install the OS will changing the display settings maybe fix it?

Thanks for ur quick reply to my problem. I tried all of that with no results... I did notice tho that the lights next to and above my caps lock key and my num lk key are now flashing. They flash in unison three times then there is a two second pause then they flash three more times and this repeats. They may have been doing this before I tried this solution but I did not take notice until now... I was also wondering how I am supposed to know, after pressing f10 to enter bios, how I can tell if my new drive is being detected when my monitor will not function? Was pressing f10 supposed to possibly make the monitor turn on? In a last ditch effort to try and further identify the problem, I re installed my old drive. Before replacing it my computer would begin to boot then display a hard error that would not allow me to continue booting and run Windows. My display would still work but I could not run Windows. After re installing the drive the monitor will not turn on. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad monitor. Is there a way of testing this with out buying one? Where does the monitor connect to the mother board? I wonder if maybe its been jarred loose, although I highly doubt it, it may still be worth looking at. Thanks again for your advice.
Casey

Is the Power Supply Important?

I see a number of other people are having dual-channel memory issues like me. I'm wondering how important the power supply is. I'm using the PSU that came with a PC case. It's rated at 300W (3.3v/20A, 5v/30A, 12v/10A, -12v/.8A). Using a bench calibrated Fluke 83 I see that the 5v rail is at 5.14v/stable and the 12v rail bounces between 12.19 to 12.21 vdc. Don't know about the 3.3v or the -12v. Maybe I need to check them too? Has anyone had a stability problem that was resolved by getting a better power supply?

those are very unimpressive numbers,10 a at 12v especially
get a better psu
Is the Power Supply Important?
you could say the same re the engine in a car
you would get the same answer from a sensible person

HT5244 how do i know if the flashback malware is on my system?

how do i know if the flashback malware is on my system? And how can i get rid of it.?
I cant upgrade to a higer os.. becouse my powermac does not have intel.. processors.
Modelnaam:          Power Mac G5 Quad
Modelaanduiding:          PowerMac11,2
Processornaam:          PowerPC G5 (1.1)
Processorsnelheid:          2.5 GHz
Aantal processors:          4
L2-cache (per processor):          1 MB
Geheugen:          8 GB
Bussnelheid:          1.25 GHz

X423424X wrote:
For some, if not complete peace of mind, go to F_Secure's Flashback Removal Tool web page, download their Flashback trojan detection/removal tool, and follow the instructions you find there.
Turns out their tool won't run on a PPC Mac (unless you extract and modify the AppleScript so it will run the shell script).
The only one I know of that does is Norton's. I glanced over it and gave it a test run. Looks OK, but I cannot attest to how well it might work.
And as has already been said, nobody we've run into here using a PPC Mac has been shown to be infected and all the samples I have been able to examine contained Intel only executables.

Can I keep plugging in my iphone to the power supply despite fully charged to reduce the battery cycle?

Since an iphone battery lasts for 300-500 cycles before losing its juice, can I just continuously connect my iphone to the power supply to avoid using the battery, like how I use my macbook.

Yes, you can but best read this
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html

I have the first generation Time Capsule A1254, the power supply went south and I'm looking to replace it any suggestions where I might find one? Thanks

Hi,
I have the first generation Time Capsule A1254, the power supply inside went south, does anyone know where I can purchase another?
Thanks

Might be worth considering a repair of the power supply so you can keep the data on your drive.
I have no association with the link below other than as a customer.
http://www.timecapsulerepair.net/

How do I know if the Power Supply is shot?

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