How I solved my crackle/pop iss

Hello fellow sufferers!
After I bought a Creative X-Fi Titanium Pro the fun began with sound issues. There were gaps inside the sound that made enjoying music impossible. Also the DPC latency checker tool showed many peaks while playing sound. But to make a long story short, it turned out that the problem was an application named "SRS Audio Sandbox" that caused gaps inside the sound output. After uninstalling all problems disappeared
I know, the vast majority does not have this application installed so the problem has to be on another side. But maybe some have...
Hope this helps!
Cheers!

Heres some general stuff to try to stop audio pops
The first step is to disable all the extra stuff in creative audio panel
if that doesnt work, what I found to help was to not install the Intel drivers for AHCI, (I have a board with the P45 chipset which is ICH0R intel)
setting the network adapter from "auto negotiation" to full duplex / half duplex may help
and last but not least it may be overheating of the cpu, just wild guesses
edit:there is one another way for sound to distort: if youre monitor is dvi and is not plugged tightly it might cause audio to pop I have no idea why this isMessage Edited by Melted_Igloo on -2-2008 04:56 AM

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    I'm kind of cranky about this problem. Read on because I actually know exactly what the problem is (at least for most of us and only Creative/EMU can fix it).
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    I have a 1212M with the 0404 I/O card. It's a V1 that have had for five or six years. The quality of the sound is great, the features are great and the price is great. There's just one problem. From the day I got the board all those years ago I've had the crackling/popping problem that many, many other users also have.
    The problem is not my motherboard, BIOS, other hardware, Windows or other applications. Over the years this EMU board has been in many different systems, many different configurations and the evolution from WinXP, Vista and now to Win7. The crackling problem has always been exactly the same. The problem is the board itself, not the system and not the configuration and I can prove it (read on).
    Another thing that frustrates me is all the time that so many users have spent trying to troubleshoot this issue that is completely wasted since, for some of us, the problem is in the EMU hardware/drivers. That's not to say that there aren't some other crackling problems that are related to the system speed, interfering hardware or interfering software. There are actually two different problems that both have the same crackling symptom which makes all this quite confusing. I'll call them "System Related" and "EMU Hardware/Driver Related". If you're having the crackling symptom you should figure out which type of problem you have before spending hours troubleshooting, reinstalling, etc, etc, etc. Here's how:
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    - Starts with a few minor crackle/pops per second and gradually gets progressively worse over several minutes with nothing else changing in the system (ie not running new software or changing anything).
    - After a while (can be a long while) the crackling can actually go away again and you have clean audio. Then the crackling returns. Once again with no changes in system load in between.
    - You can make the crackling go away instantly and every time by simply resetting the clock on the card. There are several ways to do this. In Patchmix go to the System tab under Session Settings and switch the clock between internal/external (whatever you have it on, go to the other and back again). Another way is the change the ASIO Buffer Latency milliseconds in your host software's ASIO control panel.
    If those four things are all true for you then you have the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. Do not waste any time with all the well-meaning but misguided troubleshooting ideas posted on this and other forums. None of it will help.
    If these four things aren't true on your system then by all means you should try all the troubleshooting steps because it's likely that you can resolve your crackling problem.
    Here is what is happening with the "EMU Hardware/Driver Related" type of crackling problem. First, let me say that I know what the root of the problem is because I used to work for a company that developed high-end professional video/audio software for Windows PCs. We encountered this exact same problem when some our users started reporting it. It wasn't solely with Creative or EMU hardware because the problem can actually happen on a variety of PC audio cards where the hardware is slightly out of spec or malfunctioning and the software driver is not capable of correcting the problem.
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    Once we understood the problem, in our next version we modified our software to use a larger buffer. This eliminated the problem for some of our customers whose hardware clock was only very slightly out spec. However, for other customers the problem remained, although by increasing the buffer size it made it take longer for the pointers to reach each other and the crackling to begin. This is the what I suspect EMU has done with the new Win7 beta drivers. With the new drivers my crackling takes longer to appear. In these forums we see reports from some long-time sufferers of the problem that the new driver fixed their problem and from others we hear that they are still having the problem.
    Since we still had unhappy users of our video/audio application software, we kept working on the issue and eventually came up with a fix that solved the problem for all users and all audio hardware. It was hard to implement but this is what EMU/Creative needs to have their driver engineers do to actually fix the problem (short of replacing an enormous amount of hardware).
    The problem can be solved in the driver (yes, my old company actually embedded our own low level generic driver in our application software). Since EMU/Creative is making their driver themselves they can just implement this fix there. The secret is for the driver to actually keep track of where the write and read pointers are and each time they get too close to each other it stretches or shrinks the next packet of data by averaging the audio samples in that packet to the exact size needed to put the pointers 180 degrees apart again. It then resets the pointers as it writes that new data. The data shrink or stretch prevents a single pop or click from happening when the pointers are reset to their correct positions. Frankly, this was hard to implement but it worked perfectly. We actually hired a consultant to figure this audio problem out who was a former Microsoft engineer who wrote the WDM kernal mode drivers.
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    If you need specific help, I'll even connect you with the engineers that did it for a more detailed explanation (we sold our company years ago and the team has split up but I'm still in contact with most of them).

    Markran,
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    9) After the update installation, I no longer receive "An error occured when attempting to change modules" the message but instead tnow I receive message asking me for serial number. So much problem now ...
    Note:
    If you see this link, something is wrong bcos when you clicked the settings wheel, you'll see that Managed Application - Uninstall Unavailable"
    <a href="http://s32.photobucket.com/user/ryan_khoo/media/ScreenShotofAdobeCC_zpsa6c420e7.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2/ryan_khoo/ScreenShotofAdobeCC_zpsa6c420e7.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo ScreenShotofAdobeCC_zpsa6c420e7.jpg"/></a>
    So now my problem has changed form one where the error message popped up to one which now asked me for serial number ...
    Any ideas ?
    Thanks

  • TS3694 how to solve 1015 error message

    how to solve 1015 error messege

    Error 1015: This error is typically caused by attempts to downgrade the iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch's software. This can occur when you attempt to restore using an older .ipsw file. Downgrading to a previous version is not supported. To resolve this issue, attempt to restore with the latest iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch software available from Apple. This error can also occur when an unauthorized modification of the iOS has occurred and you are now trying to restore to an authorized, default state.
    Pull up itunes on a computer and plug the iPad cord into the USB but the the device, hold the "Sleep/Wake" button and the "Home" button at the same time and count to 8.  then let go the Sleep/Wake button BUT KEEP YOUR FINGER ON THE HOME BUTTON. while holding the home button connect the device to the cable thats plugged into the computer and keep holding the home button
    AT NO TIME SHOULD YOU LET GO OF THAT HOME BUTTON until you see the message pop up in itunes saying "iTunes has discovered your iPad in recovery mode" then just go through the screens to restore the device.
    if that message doesn't pop up after about 20 seconds, then call apple care, let them know you tried to perform the DFU mode restore (Deivce Firmware Update) and it was a no go. and ask them if you're in warranty to replace it for free.

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