Improved DVD Quality

I do some video editing on my Mac Pro using Final Cut Pro. I've recently been trying to import video of personal DVDs and I've noticed the quality of the DVDs is dark and choppy. Just to be specific: I'm talking about simply popping in a DVD and playing it, the quality at that point is bad. I'm assuming that if playback is bad the quality of imported video would be worse. I am trying to get optimal quality and I'm not sure if the lack of quality comes from the DVD drive or the video card. My drive is listed as HL-DT-ST DVD-RW GH41N and my video card is an NVIDIA GeForce GT 120.
Any ideas or suggestions for upgrades are appreciated.

I'm assuming that if playback is bad the quality of imported video would be worse.
Here's one way to find out: http://www.secondchairvideo.com/?p=739

Similar Messages

Improve DVD Quality on Mac Mini?

Hello,
I just purchased a brand-new Mac Mini from my local Apple Store. My goal is to get it all set up as a media center.
OK, I hoked it up to my 42" Sony Bravia via the HDMI cable, and it works just like a computer monitor. Excellent!
But I am wondering if there's a way to improve the quality of the DVD play.
When I put the DVD in the drive, it is really easy to start playing through the DVD Player app (which comes with OS X). However, I'm noticing that the video playback is not as "smooth" as it would be through a DVD player hooked directly to the TV set. Some scenes where there is action look just a bit choppy.
Are there settings I could play with to improve this?
Also, does anyone have suggestions for better DVD-playing software?
Thanks,
Matthew

mattschenker wrote:
Hello,
I just purchased a brand-new Mac Mini from my local Apple Store. My goal is to get it all set up as a media center.
OK, I hoked it up to my 42" Sony Bravia via the HDMI cable, and it works just like a computer monitor. Excellent!
But I am wondering if there's a way to improve the quality of the DVD play.
When I put the DVD in the drive, it is really easy to start playing through the DVD Player app (which comes with OS X). However, I'm noticing that the video playback is not as "smooth" as it would be through a DVD player hooked directly to the TV set. Some scenes where there is action look just a bit choppy.
Are there settings I could play with to improve this?
Also, does anyone have suggestions for better DVD-playing software?
In terms of DVD playing software for the Mac, there is -
Apple DVD Player
Front Row
VLC
XBMC
However an area you might want to investigate is the display refresh rate your Mac mini is using to talk to your Sony TV. DVDs come with one of three refresh rates, these are -
24 frames per second (or 23.976), this is what movies are filmed at and is also used on some NTSC DVDs
30 frames per second (or 29.97), this is what NTSC TV broadcasts use, and is also used on many NTSC DVDs
25 frames per second, this is what PAL TV broadcasts and all PAL DVDs use.
If you are playing a 24fps DVD on a TV running at 30fps, then this mis-match can result in the image appearing to jerk slightly every second or so. Similarly for other mis-matched refresh rates. Newer higher end TVs including most newer Bravias can run at all three of these rates, however your Mac mini video card needs to be configured to the appropriate settings which is not always easy. Furthermore, some of your DVDs might be at one refresh rate and some at a different one meaning you would have to keep changing. Dedicated hardware DVD players might do this automatically.
Some software like XBMC can automatically do this refreshrate switching, but possibly only for Linux or Windows. This is an area that is currently not well served on the Mac.
PS. A disappointingly large number of NTSC 30fps DVDs have errors in them such that the pattern (order) of frames is messed up. The process of converting a film from 24fps to a video (on a DVD) at 30fps is called 'Telecine'. If after this conversion, the video is then edited, this breaks the conversion pattern so the sequence of frames is disrupted resulting in jaggy images every five frames. The process of converting back from 30fps to 24fps is called inverse-telecine. This sort of error is easiest to see when single-stepping through frames one at a time.

How do I improve my DVD quality?

Hi there! I've made video projects using my Sony HDR-CX110, iMovie, and idvd. I know it's not going to look professional, but the quality i get once the project is on DVD is far from the original quality. Is there something I can do to improve the quality? Keep it simple, but if you could give me some advice that would be great!
Thanks!

iDVD compresses to the standard DVD format of mpeg2, so the quality is largely dependent on the source material.
But using the most appropriate encoding setting helps:
iDVD encoding settings:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1502?viewlocale=en_US
Short version:
Best Performance is for videos of up to 60 minutes
Best Quality is for videos of up to 120 minutes
Professional Quality is also for up to 120 minutes but even higher quality (and takes much longer)
That was for single-layer DVDs. Double these numbers for dual-layer DVDs.
Professional Quality: The Professional Quality option uses advanced two-pass technology to encode your video (The first pass determines which parts of the movie can be given greater compresson without quality loss and which parts can’t. The second pass then encodes those different parts accordingly) , resulting in the best quality of video possible on your burned DVD. You can select this option regardless of your project’s duration (up to 2 hours of video for a single-layer disc and 4 hours for a double-layer disc). Because Professional Quality encoding is time-consuming (requiring about twice as much time to encode a project as the High Quality option, for example) choose it only if you are not concerned about the time taken.
In both cases the maximum length includes titles, transitions and effects etc. Allow about 15 minutes for these.
You can use the amount of video in your project as a rough determination of which method to choose. If your project has an hour or less of video (for a single-layer disc), choose Best Performance. If it has between 1 and 2 hours of video (for a single-layer disc), choose High Quality. If you want the best possible encoding quality for projects that are up to 2 hours (for a single-layer disc), choose Professional Quality. This option takes about twice as long as the High Quality option, so select it only if time is not an issue for you.
Use the Capacity meter in the Project Info window (choose Project > Project Info) to determine how many minutes of video your project contains.
NOTE: With the Best Performance setting, you can turn background encoding off by choosing Advanced > “Encode in Background.” The checkmark is removed to show it’s no longer selected. Turning off background encoding can help performance if your system seems sluggish.
And whilst checking these settings in iDVD Preferences, make sure that the settings for NTSC/PAL and DV/DV Widescreen are also what you want.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1502?viewlocale=en_US

How can i improve burning quality of dvd.looks fine in preview on idvd,but final burn quality is poor/

how can i improve burning quality of dvd.looks fine in preview on idvd,but final burn quality is poor.

Had same problem with iPhoto pictures and poor burn quality. Went back to original picture file and dragged images into idvd project from there. Set encoding at professional quality and burned at slowest speed. Got very good result with high quality slideshow when played on TV.
Also tried Old Toad's Aug 30, 2011 advice to get a slideshow into iDVD with transitions, music, etc. from iPhoto.
Again the quaility of the burned CD was very good.

Can improve picture quality in Dvd Pro?

I just made my first DVD in DVD Pro! Just a simple DVD with first track start.
I am disappointed about the quality.
I took it from 2k clips, assembled them in FCP, exported to Compressor, choose (MPEG 2) best quality max 90 min (Footage is only 2 min) and burned it. I am a bit ashamed to give away so soft images.....I was told, a dvd con only hold SD and not HD.
Is there any way to improve the quality?
I shot it on 4k. But most dvds I have seen have a better quality.
Dorian

no, I have not looked at a TV. Don't even have one... haha.
Only monitors. But I see all other dvds on my computer monitor.
Well, of course, it is downgraded to 720x480. But is there a way to tweak the quality a little bit? I used already 2 passes setting, all others are default settings in Compressor.

How to improve image quality

I've been using Motion for a couple of years now and although I'm no expert, I'm really pleased with the possibilities. I mainly use it to create animations that are then watched on a computer - either on a CD or on the web. I've also done a few animations that were later exported to a DVD. I must say, the quality of the image on a TV is terrible. It really looks like an amateur animation. I was just wondering if there was a way to improve the quality of the animation shown on a TV screen. Is it just a question of settings, compression or codec?

The color space on a TV is completely different, and much, much more restrictive, than that of a computer monitor. If you work is destined for NTSC or PAL TV, you really should use a calibrated monitor to view your project as it will be seen so you can make the right choices of color, title and action safe, and watch for interlace issues. You need to make sure your luma and chroma levels are broadcast safe as well.
Under the File menu is the new Share feature for exporting movies to different devices (in Motion 4, FCP 7)

DVD Quality Sucks

I shoot weddings in HD with a SONY HVR-Z5U and edit them in Premiere Pro CS6 using the correct settings and then use the Adobe Dynamic Link to import them into Encore CS6. I use the DVD and Blu-ray presets in Encore. The Blu-ray discs have a sharp clear quality but the DVDs look awful. If nobody is moving the video looks fine but my videos are mostly long shots of dancing and everyone looks blurry and pixellated. They look much worse than my old wedding DVDs looked on the older 4x3 TVs. I did tests with the same scene on a 2 hour video, a 2 minute video and with Maximum Render Quality checked and I even tried exporting an mpeg2 from PPro and importing that into Encore but I saw no difference. How can I improve the DVD quality?

sneedbreedley wrote:
Well I use the Automatic DVD Setting so how do I change the Automatic DVD Setting from "Lower" to "Upper" field? I can't even find these settings to change them.
So the field order for the default transcode settings can't be changed. Instead, select the asset in the project panel and go to the File menu:
Jeff

Exporting a video and improving the quality

I'm trying to export a video from adobe premiere CS5 but it doesn't begin it remains 0!! but yesterday i did that many times and it succeeded.
Also I just want to know how to improve the quality? since it becomes poor something after editing!!

Sorry, one more question. Once the videos filmed with the nano are imported into itunes can they be burned to dvd?

What are the best asset formats to optimise DVD quality?

Hi Guys
Some of my clients have been complaining about the DVD quality they received from me, and I wondered to myself how can I improve in future.
I just want to confirm if these are the best formats for each asset:
1) Video - AVI format (as opposed to MPEG2)? The major irritation I find about AVI is that it eats up lots of disc space, and it takes a lot of time as far as transcoding in encore is concerned.
2) Photos - TIFF format (as opposed to JPEG)? Same story as above regarding disc space.
3) Audio - AIFF format (as opposed to MP3)? Same space problem as the first 2. Furthermore, my major annoyance with WAV files is that you have to know which version of WAV files are the best quality.
Now, I do not what TVs most of my past and future clients own, i.e. a normal 4:3 TV like mine or the 16:9 plasma ones (although the trend these days seem to be LCD TVs). What is the best aspect ratio to use that will work on most TVs?
Also, I use a Sony 30g HDD video camera to record events. I like it since these is no hassle about carrying tapes or DVDs around. But, the problem with the camera is that MPEG2 is the "highest quality" it can record events; my still camera can take jpeg's as the highest quality. And the photos on the DVD look - most of the time - OK in terms of quality. It's only in my last DVD that I built that I saw some of the photos having some sort of problem in the slideshow (something like a water effect on the blazers and shirts of some of the audience - definitely unwanted).
To edit my assets, I use:
1) Power director 6 (for my video). I know you are going to say I should use Premiere Pro. I'm still reading the manual for PPro2 and Ppro doesn't have SVRT like PD6 does.
2) Photoshop elements or Fireworks (for my photos). Photoshop CS2 looks very complex for me at the moment - will learn later.
3) Adobe Audition (for my audio).
All I want is to have the highest quality possible. What's the best advice?
Thanks for all your help guys.

Since you raised the question of Hi8 versus DV tape formats, here are a few thoughts intended partly for you and partly for those who (unlike you) may be planning to get their first camcorder and are wondering about the different formats available.
Hi8 is a second-generation analog format that was marketed starting about 1988 to permit better resolution than the original VHS and Video8 camcorder formats. It was superseded about 1995 by the digital video, or DV, format.
Hi8 produced video of decent quality and was a good capture medium for material that was going to be distributed on VHS or SVHS tape. But the quality of DV is better, and DV has enormous advantages for editing and distribution. In particular, DV has absolutely no "generation loss" when transferring from tape to computer, from tape to tape, or from computer to tape, and it permits sophisticated editing using any one of many "nonlinear editing" applications that are available on PC's or Macs. Once you have edited your video using one of these applications, you may proceed to "author" your DVD's (i.e. add menus, etc.) and they will be of surprisingly high quality.
In mentioning Hi8 you may actually have been thinking of the Digital8 format. This is a format developed by Sony as a bridge between the older Video8/Hi8 world and the DV world. It is logically identical to DV but it uses the same physical tape as Hi8. This tape is now customarily labelled "Hi8/Digital8" to emphasize this fact. Hi8/Digital8 tape is less expensive and reportedly more robust than DV tape.
In principle Digital8 is just as good a format as DV. However, Digital8 has been targeted at a lower end of the market than DV, so even the best Digital8 camcorders may not have as good optics, as good sensors, or as many features as the better DV camcorders.
A few years ago, many people would recommend Digital8 as a very practical format for someone just getting started in video, since it was available at lower price points than DV, was identical in quality as regards format and perhaps better in value as regards camcorders, i.e. Digital8 camcorders were less expensive than DV camcorders of the same quality. Above all, Digital8 was ideal for someone who had previously used Video8 or Hi8, since the early Digital 8 camcorders would play back analog tapes and so could bridge the transition to digital. In fact, by buying or borrowing a second Digital8 camcorder, you could play back your analog tapes from one camcorder and record them as digital tapes using the other camcorder, forever after enjoying the advantages of the digital format.
At the present time, however, DV would be a much better choice than Digital8. Most (or all?) recent Digital8 camcorders have abandoned the ability to play back analog tapes. Only one or two manufacturers are making Digital8, and their offerings have dropped to a handful in recent years. This hardware will quite likely cease to be available in the near future, though the tapes will probably be marketed for years. When your present equipment wears out you would not want to be left with a library of family videos in an unsupported physical format.
In the last few years the DV format itself has been superseded by various high-definition formats, especially by HDV, a format that records to the same physical tapes as DV, at the same bitrates as DV, but, thanks to much greater compression, with twice the horizontal and more than twice the vertical resolution of DV.
Another format using even greater and more sophisticated compression, AVCHD, promises similar quality as HDV with even greater horizontal resolution, although the implementations of AVCHD available now are probably not as high in quality as the best HDV, and are certainly much harder to edit.
Despite the emergence of high-definition formats, there are good reasons for some people to prefer standard-definition DV at this time. One reason is cost. A good HDV camcorder -- the Canon HV20 is probably the best consumer model right now -- is likely to cost $1,000 or a bit more, while good DV models cost a few hundred. A second reason is low-light capability. The imaging chips for high-definition have many more pixels than the chips for DV. If the lenses are the same size, then these pixels must be crowded into a sensor about the same size as that of a DV camera, meaning that each pixel must be smaller and therefore less responsive to low-light conditions. So a good DV camera may be much better in low light than even the best high-definition camcorder of the same size.
Camcorders are now available that record direct to DVD (NOT advisable as John Smith said: the DVD medium is not robust for long-term storage and the necessary MPEG2 compression robs your source video of the quality it would have on tape and is much harder to edit).
Camcorders are also available that record directly to hard disk. Depending on the implementation, and your handiness with computers, thes might be just right FOR SOME USES. In particular they permit much more rapid turnaround between shooting and editing, so they might be right for something that is needed quickly but where archiving is not important (for example, shots of a football team at practice). But (as you have undoubtedly discovered with your 30gig Sony) you must download the material from camera to hard drive when the camera fills up, and this is not as easy as putting in a new tape. Also, the file may not be stored on disk in the relatively uncompressed, and easily edited, DV format. Finally, no hard drive is as safe a storage medium as a tape. With a hard drive and especially with a DVD, you risk losing everything to a crash or scratch; with a tape, you risk at most losing a few frames to a dropout caused by imperfections in the media.
Only you can balance all these factors knowing the type of things you will be shooting, how you will view or share your videos, and what you plan to do with them in the future. Note that DV can be edited together with HDV by many editing programs, though either the quality or the size on screen or both will be noticeably different. Also note that the high-definition formats are all in the widescreen 16:9 aspect ratio, like the newer TV's, while DV was originally 4:3 and may be available in 16:9 but with the additional width achieved by stretching the same number of pixels and possibly by using a smaller fraction of the imaging chip.
I would recommend that you search for articles and forums about camcorders to learn what is available. There is a lot of information out there. As for me, I would certainly not recommend Hi8, or even Digital8, at this time. Choose DV if you have a pressing reason for it, such as cost or the need to get good images in low light; otherwise make yourself more future proof with HDV or AVCHD. They will produce high-quality DVD's when "downconverted" when capturing them into the computer or when exporting them from the nonlinear editor or authoring program (experiment to find which method is best). Unless you are using AVCHD, which is not a tape-based format, stick with tape (for now) if you are concerned with long-term storage.
Best wishes!

DVD Quality - Jumpy

Hi,
In the last 6 months the DVD quality has become jumpy when burning MPEGs to DVD using Premier Elements. Before this it was fine. I purchased a new camcorder but it hasn't improved. When I view the Mpegs on the computer they are fine, however after burning them to DVD and playing it in the DVD player (and a second one to test it), the quality is jumpy like it can't catch up when moving the camcorder. Do you think this is a problem with the computer's DVD burner, the software when compressing it to DVD or something else? I have always saved the movies as MPEG PAL Widescreen then combined several to make the DVD, is this what you'd recommend?

Hi
I haven't changed any of the setting in Premier Elements.
The camcorder is a Sony Handycam DCR-SR78E. Previously I had the DCR-SR52E which used to be fine for creating DVDs until earlier this year when I noticed the jumpiness. That camcorder's LCD lost part of its colour so replacecd it with the 78. I haven't changed Premier elements settings throughout this process.
The files are mpegs which I copy to the laptop using a cable from the camcorder and Windows Explorer to move them around.
Project settings are Editing Mode DV PAL, Timebase 25.00 frames/second. Frame size 720*576 16:9
Playback settings are DV25i (720*576), 24p Conversion method is Interlaced Frame, Desktop Display mode is Standard.
Capture format: DV Capture
Video rendering: Maximum bit depth (unticked), Optimize stills (ticked)
Default timeline: Video 3 tracks, stereo 3 tracks
I've noticed discussion http://forums.adobe.com/message/1753696#1753696 which also uses a Sony camcorder. Could it be the same issue?
Please let me know if you would like any further info.

Improving image quality of transferred video

I transferred old home movies from 8mm to dvd and then saved as .mov files on the mac for use in imovie. The video is grainy and a bit fuzzy and I want to improve the quality as much as possible for viewing the movie on a larger screen. I am thinking they will be improved if I reduce the image size of the video clips but cannot figure out how to do this.

Part of the problem is you transfered your movies to a DVD. DVD content is mpg-2 compressed, and mpg-2 is a highly-compressed delivery format and not an editing format.
There really isn't anything you can do to improve the image quality now - it is what it is.
You could add a black-mask around the movies that would reduce the displayed size of your 8mm content and would avoid the quality issues of enlarging your content.
A page I put together at http://homepage.mac.com/profpixel/QT_Pro_7xmasking.html describes how to reduce the size of video content to fit in the action/title safe area with Quicktime 7 Pro. You can adjust the mask size and offset to get the results you want.

Apple TV CANNOT play DVD-quality video, let alone HD.

Ok, somebody needs to teach me a lesson (literally). This video encoding stuff is giving me headaches...
If I rip a DVD using MPEG-4 and H.264 at 100% quality the resulting file is over 8000kbps, which is higher than the 5000kbps Apple TV supports.
So, resolution-wise Apple TV may display DVD and HD signals, but when it comes to quality, it's not even close to what it should be. Is that an accurate statement?
According to the wikipedia, DVDs are encoded with MPEG-2 at 8000-14000kpbs. Now, it also says that MPEG-4 H.264 allows you to have similar image quality at much lower bit rates and much lower file size.
So the question would be, can a 5000kbps MPEG-4 be comparable to a 10000kbps MPEG-2 from a DVD?
....Or do I get all this completely wrong?
Thanks for any insight,
Julian
Dual 2.7 GHz PowerPC G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8) 2.5 Gb RAM

I'm pretty critical about my video quality and I've done a fair amount of testing using Apple's H.264 codec (using QuickTime Pro and Final Cut Studio). So, here's my take on H.264 -- it's NOT as good as many would have you believe. It's better than MPEG2, but I'd question any claim that it is four times as "good." I'd say that under the best of circumstances it's more like twice as "good" or twice as efficient as MPEG2. In any case, a 2X improvement over current state-of-the-art MPEG2 is still a pretty remarkable achievement.
So, where does that leave us with the AppleTV? First, you're not going to get consistent, solid HD quality at only 5Mbps (the limit on AppleTV). However, if you have good material and you encode with care you can definitely produce content that will exceed the quality that you might see on a standard definition DVD (or for that matter, probably as good as any anamorphic DVD).
Then there is the issue of frame rate, since the AppleTV will only do 24fps at 720p (spec) you're probably going to experience frame rate conversion artifacts on some material. Finally, the AppleTV lacks a "true" 1080i mode since for 1080i it just scales the picture up by two times from an internal video source at 960 x 540.
In any case, I'd say that given the proper source material (and the "proper" encoding) that the AppleTV potential sits somewhere between DVD quality and true HD. Of course, the video material that Apple currently sells on the iTunes store is encoded at approximately 1.5Mbps and at frame sizes equal to or smaller than 640 x 480. Given those (low) numbers, you should not expect anything that even approaches DVD quality (assuming that you compare against a good DVD). However, I don't believe that Apple has ever claimed "DVD quality" with the current iTunes content. Under the best of conditions -- and the quality varies widely -- the current iTunes content is most similar to a decent standard definition broadcast, but with a slightly different "look" and a different set of defects than you would see in an analog broadcast.
In the interest of a full disclosure, you should know that I already own an AppleTV and I think it's a pretty good product (i.e. it's worth the $300 even though it may never really achieve HD quality). But let's be fair, if it offered solid HD playback, 30fps 720p, and true 1080i it would be a near "steal" at only $300 (given its audio and still photo capabilities, its wireless 802.11n features, the internal HD storage, and its beautiful "10-foot" GUI).

Improving soundtrack quality

Are there any tricks to improve sound quality? Any soundtrack plays beautifully on the computer but is really bad once compressed and put into DVD. Thanks!

Are there any tricks to improve sound quality?
Lots.
Any soundtrack plays beautifully on the computer but is really bad once compressed and put into DVD. Thanks!
Bad in what way? Distorted? Too quiet? Too loud?
What are you using to make your DVD?
What are you starting with?
To have a hope of helping you, it is absolutely crucial that you describe the workflow and problems that you are experiencing in as much detail as possible.

Best dvd quality

I have DV taped a live performance captured into computer via firewire- Edited to 45 min. with FC Express. Have 4 other movies to put on DVD also which brings the total size to 65 min. I have exported all to 5 quicktime movies. I have burned a dvd with IDVD and I am a little dissapointed with the quality. It's good but not great. It's a children's choir from Africa and they move around alot. Will I get better quality with DVD Pro and are there settings in DVD Pro that would improve the quality over IDVD.
G4 dual 125 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

One thing you should check is the preferances in iDVD. They have an option to compress, I think. Make sure it's off, I also had an issue like that. The picture came out with lines when ever someone moved. I turned off the compression and it worked fine after that.

One Step DVD quality

I have been reading the posts about using IMOVIE09 and then using IDVD. I understand the quality is not great because of IMOVIE09 and the way it does the import.
IS the quality better if I skip IMOVIE and use the One Step DVD option in IDVD directly? I am importing Mini-DV tapes.
Thanks

Hi
IS the quality better if I skip IMOVIE and use the One Step DVD option in IDVD directly? I am importing Mini-DV tapes.
YES !
else on Quality and iDVD - my notes
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Improved DVD Quality

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for