Inkjet ink question

I have a Canon i560 printer and have been using Staple's inks for the last 3 1/2 years with good results. I've been told by friends that I should switch to Canon inks. Is there any reasoning for using Canon inks in a Canon printer, will they give me better results? Are branded inks formulated to better standards than off brand inks?
The Staple inks seem to last forever and I am more than satisfied with the results. Any advice or input would be appreciated.
Thank you

Hi Frank
If you think the Staple's inks are fine keep using them. I have a Canon and use their inks for photographs as they have a higher colourfastness (less inclined to fade) as well as the pigment dye is purer and gives better colour. But just for printing web pages I use cheap mail order inks just to get some print on copy paper. This necessitates changing the two ink cartridges but is little trouble and is a great saving as it preserves the the high quality for photos, for which I use I Canon paper.
The most noticeable difference between the two inks I use is one is water soluble and Canon's is not, but from the sound of it, the Staple's inks are good quality.
I don't know about Canon but Epson makes more money from selling inks than selling printers, so it's definitely overpriced, and hence brings competition to the ink market, which would be a good business to be in.
regards roam

Similar Messages

Photosmart Plus B209 - Photo Black Ink Question

Hi I just brought the Photosmart Plus and notice that there are 2 types of black for this printer and only one slot on the printhead for the black ink. I am still using the starter black that came with the printer. So my question is if I want to print a photo, do I just switch the regular black out with the photo black and switch it back when finished printing the photo? or Should I finish the starter black first then switch to photo black. TIA!!
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Here's the link that Bob meant to post.
Link
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Monitoring HP inkjet ink [SOLVED]

Hello,
I used to work with a Epson inkjet printer and I use Mtink to monotorize the remaining ink quantity.
But I've change to a HP Photosmart C3180 and I haven't found a similar app that works with it.
Can someone help me in this task?
Thank's

from the command-line you can use
$ hp-levels
HP Linux Imaging and Printing System (ver. 1.6.10)
Supply Levels Utility ver. 1.0
Copyright (c) 2003-6 Hewlett-Packard Development Company, LP
This software comes with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY.
This is free software, and you are welcome to distribute it
under certain conditions. See COPYING file for more details.
Using device: hp:/usb/Deskjet_5700?serial=TH54613021049T
Black cartridge
Part No.: 94 (C8765WN)/96 (C8767WN)
Health: Good/OK
|////////////////////////////////////////////////// | (approx. 50%)
Tri-color cartridge
Part No.: 95 (C8766WN)/97 (C9363WN)
Health: Good/OK
|//////////////////////////////// | (approx. 32%)
Photo cartridge
Part No.: 99 (C9369WN)
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Offset vs Inkjet - A Question of Gamut

Am interested to know which of these two process' has a larger gamut.
I had been under the impression modern injets (am thinking something like Epson UltraChrome or UltraChrome K3 inksets - the latter I believe is only a real advantage for B&W prints) had a larger gamut than your standard offset (4 colour cmyk on coated stock) printing and this was part of the reason they were so effective for contract proofs etc.
I may have spread some misinformation in another forum and would like to make good.
Thoughts?

Thanks Neilthat was my understanding.
From your opion/knowledge which I have a great deal of respect for would you agree then that the following is incorrect in today's situation?
i The fact of the matter is that the widest possible print gamut is available to press printing (of whatever type: offset lithography, gravure, or whatever) because these processes use true subtractive color inks. Inkjet printers, by contrast, generally use a dye based toner that simply does not have the same light absorbing characteristics as do true inks. This is the reason that many ink jets today use 6 and 8 color systems: the colors placed on the paper cannot perform their task and need assistance, especially for light tones.
i When printing on paper, the only light one can see is the light reflected from the surface of the paper. The best white paper reflects only about 80% of incident light, and every drop of ink on that paper absorbs some of that light, and so decreases the over all reflectance at that spot. True subtractive color ink (CMY) absorbs specific wavelengths of light:
cyan absorbs red and reflects everything except red light
Magenta absorbs green light and reflects everything else
yellow reflects all light except blue.
i The same is true of blacks. True lithographic black absorbs all light (Okay, it is not a true black body by any stretch, but it is as black as it comes), ink jet black is just sort-of-blackish.
i Inkjet dye based "inks", even when they are called Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, or Black. simply do not perform like that; they only emulate that activity. Sometimes one encounters pigment based "inks" for ink jet use. These color perform better (and are usually light fast longer) but they are still not true subtractive. A good demonstration of this is the ink jet's very poor performance in reproducing low percentage colors, like, say 2% - 5% process component colors. Modern ink jet fake these colors with 'light' color bottles.
Cheers,
Sam.

What does "inkjet" mean/refer to?

Hello, I am wondering what exactly "inkjet" means/refers to. I am shopping used printers and am just a rube in need of a little education. Thank you.
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Hi walkenhair,
I can help you with your inquiry. Some printers use an inkjet ink system, others use toner, these are laserjets.
I found a PDF document that discusses Inkjet VS. Laser. You may find this either very helpful, or very overwhelming and more than you were looking for!
I found a video on YouTube you can watch instead if you would like. It is only about 3-4 minutes long and is non bias. This gentleman speaks strictly about Laser and inkjet and makes no references to specific brands.
Ultimatly, to best answer your question in the most straightforward fashion, inkjet is liquid ink and toner is powder ink.
Personally, your best option is to speak with somebody in sales. Discuss with them what your needs are and see what they recommend. Some of the high end inkjet printers have all the same benefits of a laser and more. It all depends on the model.
I hope this is helpful and resolves your inquiry.
Please click the Thumbs up icon below to thank me for responding.
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Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Sunshyn2005 - I work on behalf of HP

FOR A PROJECT I NEED 2 PRINTER THAT IS NOT "MADE IN CHINA"

hi,
we are a engineering company based in TURKEY.
We got a projectabroad but they insist us not to use any "made in china" products even printers. we have to find 2 printers whicH is not made in China.
PLEASE CAN YOU DIRECT US SOME SELLERS OR HP PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
THANKS IN ADVANCE
here is what they want:
1) Alarm/Event printer:
it shall be black and white letter quality laser printer.
it shall have a speed of 10 pm or greater in draft mode.
black ribbon (quantity 4)
the printer shall be HP Laser Jet or equal
WE CHOSE FOR THIS ONE : HP Q5401A LASERJET 4250 N
2) Color and report printer:
shall produce Ink Jet quality monochrome print at min. output rate of 10pm
shall also produce InkJet quality color prints with a min. resulation of 1200 dpi at min rate of 6 pm.
shall be RISC based and support ethernet connectivity
shall be supplied complete with a min of 128 MRAM interconnecting parallel cable and spare monochrome and color toner cartridges.
shall be HP INK JET Series
WE CHOSE FOR THIS ONE :HP CB041B OFFICE JET K1700 COLOUR INKJET
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Almost all HP printers are manufactured in China, Malaysia and Thailand and Mexico. Their serial Numbers will start with CN, MY, TH and MX respectively. I'm not sure of how to obtain printers from a specific location from any HP outlets. You'll probably have to go to the store and view the Serial number on the box before buying it.
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Color issues - please help

i have a photosmart c6280. i've had it since early september. i am very very disappointed with it. the picture quality is terrible. with the setting at maximum, it's even worse than when set at automatic. the printouts are very washed out, with blotches on them. i cannot find any information on how to correct this issue. i am very very unhappy.
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What are you printing? What paper type are you using? What driver settings? If you are printing on photo paper but have the printer set for plain paper the results will be poor. Also, if you are using some form of glossy media such as photo media make sure it is made for inkjet use. Some photo papers are compatible with inkjet inks, others are not.
The following may also have some useful tips.
Regards,
Bob Headrick, MS MVP Printing/Imaging
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
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Changing the colors of crop marks

Hi guys.
I´m printing a small job off a inkjet printer and the paper I´m using is black.
So, is there a way to change color of the corner crop marks?
Thank you.

I've never had need nor found a way to change the color from black myself, and I recall another question similar to yours in which the answerer stated it couldn't be done. Unfortunately the forum search feature seems to be broken at the moment.
You could, of course, create your own image that's a bit larger than your print size, complete with black background and white or colored crop marks, then paste your image over it as a second layer. I realize that's nowhere near as convenient as just ticking the checkbox in the print dialog.
Out of curiosity, what kind of inkjet/inks can print on black paper? Sounds like you could get some really cool effects, and I haven't heard of it before.
-Noel

BIP and szending output to a printer

Hi,
I am perusing the BIP documentation looking for how to print my report directly to a printer. The only reference I am seeing is to IPP. I must be missing something, because all I need to do is send my output to printers already defined on my server.
Please trell me how I can simply print to my already defined printer without setting up IPP.
thx,
Gary

This would be a start:
http://www.scantips.com/basics01.html
When you're talking about 300dpi art, in reality it should be 300ppi (pixels per inch). Below is a quote from that Scan Tips site:
Printer ink dots and image pixels are very different concepts, but both use the term dpi in their own way (dots per inch).
Inkjet printer dpi ratings refer to printer ink dots (the four colors of ink), which is NOT AT ALL the same thing as image pixels. These are such different concepts that some people think we should reserve the term dpi for those inkjet ink dots, and reserve use of ppi only for image pixels. Not a bad plan, except that this view fails to recognize real world usage.
In the quote above, when they say "Inkjet printer dpi ratings", it applies also to offset printing presses.

:*( Form buttons don't work for all testers

I created a form in Acrobat 9.1 using Forms> Add or Edit Fields. The form contains action buttons for next page and previous page, to clear all fields, and (with the generous help of a fellow forum member) to print the form and save it to disk. I optimized the form with compatibility set to Acrobat 8.0 and later, then enabled it for Reader. I sent this form to several users for testing.
Those using Acrobat have no problems with it.
Those using Foxit Reader have no problems with the action buttons or the form fields (except that date fields are finicky; Foxit doesn't convert the dates to the correct format the way Reader or Acrobat do). But, the yellow background that I created as a watermark -- so I could make it visible but not print -- is printing. That's not anything that Acrobat can help, but it is a very good reason to not recommend using Foxit. It would create a dreadful shortage of yellow inkjet ink.
Those using Reader 8.0 to 8.1.2 are having several problems. For them, the action buttons don't work... except the "clear all fields" one. The buttons don't do anything; there are no errors, no messages, no activity of any kind except to change color when clicked.
The buttons that don't work are all set up as Mouse Up actions executing a menu item... for example, "Go to page 2" is just View>Go To>Next Page. The "Clear all fields" button is, on Mouse Up, "Reset a form" with all fields selected... so it's the only kind of button that works for Reader users, and it's the only button that doesn't execute a menu item.
Why is there a difference in actions these users can run? If it's a security issue... what possible risk is there in going to the next page, using a button instead of a scroll bar or Page Down key??? I can find no common sense here, especially because Reader users are the only ones barred from these form actions. Everyone else can use them.
-- Also, these testers (Reader 8+) are having problems with the tab order. Some of the radio button groups (which have no more than three options, Yes, No and NA) at first appear to be tabbing correctly, because the Yes option receives focus in the correct order... but randomly, tabbing through several fields, suddenly the No option will get focus... in a radio button group nowhere near the current tab location. Tabbing is rendered useless, then, because these anomalies are unpredictable and it doesn't appear there's anything I can do to prevent this from happening.
It's pointless to delete and re-add the afflicted radio buttons. That has no effect... and the radio button groups are already in the correct order anyway. I don't know how this could possibly happen... But it doesn't happen for the Foxit or Acrobat testers.
• Why would Reader be the only app that can't use the buttons and can't tab through the fields correctly? I'd think Adobe's own software would work best with their own file format. •
Is Reader 8 the problem --- should those users all update to the newest version? I don't have any Reader 9+ testers yet. Nobody seems interested in it. The testers all assume the problems are MY fault, so nobody's happy with me and no one wants to bother testing the forms because there's always something wrong.
<hair-pulling> I seriously regret upgrading to Acrobat 9.1. I know other forum members who agree this thing is catastrophically buggy -- I've wasted weeks trying to iron out all the problems I've been having with these forms, forms that should have been quick and simple to create, and in past versions of Acrobat, would have been. Yet I'm still tearing out my hair over tab order! Worse, I fear I'm close to losing my job for all the time wasted and all the projects I've fallen behind in because of this. <no /hair-pulling in sight>

I have no clue, but it might make a difference depending on the form being produced in Acrobat versus Designer. Acrobat will take you both places and one of them may have an issue with backward compatibility. I have not heard of that, but it is a possibility.

F2480 does not print using MAC OS 10.9.3

Hi
I recenty bought a MacBook Air with OS 10.9.3 OS.
I did the Apple software update, the system is now up to date.
I connected the HP2480 with the MAC using an USB cable. But it is failing to print!!
The printer is idle and recognised as : HP F2400 series with Driver 1.5.
Question: is this driver the latest version for MAC?
After the print instruction (using 365 Word), the printer is showed in the bottom bar showing a 1, indicating 1 document is being printed then it disappears.
There is no paper output, also the printer is not showing any activity.
What to do? Please help
Thanks
John

Hi JohnGrijpma,
That's great news, thanks for updating me!
You should be able to create a Black Ink Only Preset on your Mac so that each time you have to print, all you have to do is select that preset to print without the color inks
To do this please follow the steps in the screen shot below to select the Black Ink Only first.
Once you've done that, if you go up to where it says Presets: and click on the drop down there should be a Save or Save As option. In selecting that you can name and create the Black Ink Only preset, so that the next time you go to print you just select that preset for black ink only printing!
If that resolves the black ink question for you as well, can I ask that you mark my post as the Accepted Solution for this thread? That way, anyone with a similar issue can more easily find the post. If not though, no hard feelings whatsoever!
Hope this helps, please let me know if you have any further questions I can help with
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post resolved your issue, as it will help others find the solution faster
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Need help understanding profiles and color management

I made the big leap from inexpensive inkjets to:
1 Epson 3800 Standard
2 Spyder3Studio
I have a Mac Pro Quad, Aperture, PS3, etc.
I have a steep learning curve ahead, here's what I've done:
1 Read a lot of books, watched tutorials, etc.
2 Calibrated the monitor
3 Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
What I've found:
1 The sample print produced by Spyder3Print, using the profile I created with color management turned off in the print dialog, looks very good.
2 When I get into Aperture, and apply the .icc profile I created in the proofing profile with onscreen proofing, the onscreen image does not change appreciably compared with the no proof setting. It gets slightly darker
3 When I select File>Print image, select the profile I created, turn off color management and look a the resulting preview image it looks much lighter and washed out than the onscreen image with onscreen proofing turned on.
4 When I print the image, it looks the same as was shown in the print preview...light and washed out, which is much different than what is shown in edit mode.
5 When I open PS3 with onscreen soft-proofing, the onscreen image is light and washed out...just like displayed in PS3 preview. If I re-edit the image to look OK onscreen, and print with the profile and color management turned off, the printed image looks OK.
So, why am I confused?
1 In the back of my simplistic and naive mind, I anticipated that in creating a custom printer profile I would only need to edit a photo once, so it looks good on the calibrated screen, and then a custom printer profile will handle the work to print a good looking photo. Different profiles do different translations for different printers/papers. However, judging by the PS work, it appears I need to re-edit a photo for each printer/paper I encounter...just doesn't seem right.
2 In Aperture, I'm confused by the onscreen proofing does not present the same image as what I see in the print preview. I'm selecting the same .icc profile in both locations.
I tried visiting with Spyder support, but am not able to explain myself well enough to help them understand what I'm doing wrong.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

Calibrated the printer several times and created .icc profiles
You have understand that maintaining the colour is done by morphing the colourants, and you have understood that matching the digital graphic display (which is emissive) to the print from the digital graphic printer (which is reflective) presupposes a studio lighting situation that simulates the conditions presupposed in the mathematical illuminant model for media independent matching. Basically, for a display-to-print match you need to calibrate and characterise the display to something like 5000-55000 kelvin. There are all sorts of arguments surrounding this, and you will find your way through them in time, but you now have the gist of the thing.
So far so good, but what of the problem posed by the digital graphic printer? If you are a professional photographer, you are dependent on your printer for contract proofing. Your prints you can pass to clients and to printers, but your display you cannot. So this is critical.
The ICC Specification was published at DRUPA Druck und Papier in Düsseldorf in May 1995 and ColorSync 2 Golden Master is on the WWDC CD for May 1995. Between 1995 and 2000 die reine Lehre said to render your colour patch chart in the raw condition of the colour device.
The problem with this is that in a separation the reflectance of the paper (which is how you get to see the colours of the colourants laid down on top of the paper) and the amount of colourant (solid and combinations of tints) gives you the gamut.
By this argument, you would want to render the colour patch chart with the most colourant, but what if the most colourant produces artifacts? A safer solution is to have primary ink limiting as part of the calibration process prior to rendering of the colour patch chart.
You can see the progression e.g. in the BEST RIP which since 2002 has been owned by EFI Electronics for Imaging. BEST started by allowing access to the raw colour device, with pooling problems and whatnot, but then introduced a primary ink limiting and linearisation.
The next thing you need to know is what colour test chart to send to the colour device, depending on whether the colour device is considered an RGB device or a CMYK device. By convention, if the device is not driven by a PostScript RIP it is considered an RGB device.
The colour patch chart is not tagged, meaning that it is deviceColor and neither CIEBased colour or ICCBased colour. You need to keep your colour patch chart deviceColor or you will have a colour characterisation of a colour managed conversion. Which is not what you want.
If the operating system is colour managed through and through, how do you render a colour test chart without automatically assigning a source ICC profile for the colourant model (Generic RGB Profile for three component, Generic CMYK Profile for four component)?
The convention is that no colour conversion occurs if the source ICC device profile and the destination ICC device profile are identical. So if you are targetting your inkjet in RGB mode, you open an RGB colourant patch chart, set the source ICC profile for the working space to the same as the destination ICC profile for the device, and render as deviceColor.
You then leave the rendered colourant test chart to dry for one hour. If you measure a colourant test chart every ten minutes through the first hour, you may find that the soluble inkjet inks in drying change colour. If you wait, you avoid this cause of error in your characterisation.
As you will mainly want to work with loose photographs, and not with photographs placed in pages, when you produce a contract proof using Absolute Colorimetric rendering from the ICC profile for the printing condition to the ICC profile for your studio printer, here's a tip.
Your eyes, the eyes of your client, and the eyes of the prepress production manager will see the white white of the surrounding unprinted margins of the paper, and will judge the printed area of the paper relative to that.
If, therefore, your untrimmed contract proof and the contract proof from Adobe InDesign or QuarkPress, or a EFI or other proofing RIP, are placed side by side in the viewing box your untrimmed contract proof will work as the visual reference for the media white.
The measured reference for the media white is in the ICC profile for the printing condition, to be precise in the WTPT White Point tag that you can see by doubleclicking the ICC profile in the Apple ColorSync Utility. This is the lightness and tint laid down on proof prints.
You, your client and your chosen printer will get on well if you remember to set up your studio lighting, and trim the blank borders of your proof prints. (Another tip: set your Finder to neutral gray and avoid a clutter of white windows, icons and so forth in the Finder when viewing.)
So far, so good. This leaves the nittygritty of specific ICC profiling packages and specific ICC-enabled applications. As for Aperture, do not apply a gamma correction to your colourant patch chart, or to colour managed printing.
As for Adobe applications, which you say you will be comparing with, you should probably be aware that Adobe InDesign CS3 has problems. When targetting an RGB printing device, the prints are not correctly colour managed, but basically bypass colour management.
There's been a discussion on the Apple ColorSync Users List and on Adobe's fora, see the two threads below.
Hope this helps,
Henrik Holmegaard
technical writer
References:
http://www.adobeforums.com/webx?14@@.59b52c9b/0
http://lists.apple.com/archives/colorsync-users/2007/Nov/msg00143.html

How can I view resolution in DPI and not PPI?

Hi all,
Under Bridge>view content as list, I got a column of Resolution but the mesurement are ppi and not dpi and i need to see the dpi.
Anyone knows where can i set it?
thanks..
shlomit

Shlomit,
Strictly speaking, images do not have dpi (ever), only ppi. Images are made of pixels, not dots.
Dpi refers to prints.
However, in everyday use, the terms are loosely used interchangeably. They work out to exactly the same thing (same numbers), but ppi is the correct terminlogy.
See: http://www.scantips.com/basics01.html
DPI, PPI, SPI - What's in a name?
Printer ink dots and image pixels are very different concepts, but both use the term dpi in their own way (dots per inch).
Inkjet printer dpi ratings refer to printer ink dots (the four colors of ink), which is NOT AT ALL the same thing as image pixels. These are such different concepts that some people think we should reserve the term dpi for those inkjet ink dots, and reserve use of ppi only for image pixels. Not a bad plan, except that this view fails to recognize real world usage.
We may hear scanning resolution called spi (Samples Per Inch), and that is indeed what it is. We often hear image resolution called ppi (Pixels Per Inch), and that is indeed what it is. The spi and ppi terms are correct. But historical and common usage has always said dpi for image resolution, meaning pixels per inch, and fully interchangeable with ppi. Pixels are conceptually a kind of colored dot too, and resolution has always been called dpi, for years before we had inkjet printers. Dpi is just jargon perhaps, but it is a fact of life. Scanners and scanner ratings say dpi too, meaning pixels per inch (see dialog pictures here, here, here, and here). I habitually always say dpi myself, but I did try to switch to ppi in the book version.
We may use the term of our own preference, but we need to understand it both ways. Some photo editor programs have switched to saying ppi now, which has much to be said for it. But others have not switched, so insisting on conformity for others to only say ppi will necessarily encounter much frustration, because the real world simply isn't that way, and obviously is not ready to switch yet.
My point here is that we must understand it both ways, because we will see it both ways, often, in the real world.
It's easy, not a problem - the idea of printing digital images is always about pixels per inch, so when the context pertains to images instead of printers, all of these terms, spi, ppi, and dpi, are exactly the same equivalent concept - they all mean pixels per inch.
There is no problem understanding any use of dpi if you know the context. It always means the only thing it can possibly mean. If the context pertains to images or printing pixels, dpi means "pixels per inch". If the context pertains to inkjet printer ratings, dpi means "ink dots per inch". There is no other meaning possible. This should be clear and no big deal - the English language is full of multiple context definitions.

Newly Installed eINK ePrint Cartridges

HI, i have just recently installed my new ePrint cartridges after using the free ones I got with the printer. I now pay a monthly subscription for ink, which is a brilliant idea, however, how do I know how many pages I have printed using these cartidges? Not the entire page count for the printer, I can see that. But I need to know how far along I am on my subscription page limit as this is a family printer.
I need to know how many pages I have printed this month. I dont want to be charged for over printing, when I dont know how many pages I have printed so far this month.
Thanks.

Hi @LoudScotsBloke,
Welcome to the HP Support Forums and to HP’s Instant Ink program. I see that you would like to learn more about it.
I have included the Managing Your HP Instant Ink Account document. The last FAQ in the document explains how to keep track of your page count. There is also lots of good information about the Instant Ink program at the HP Instant Ink Product Support Page.
If you prefer to ask your Instant Ink questions to a live person, please call HP’s Cloud Services at 1-855-785-2777 if you live in the USA/Canada region. If you live outside the USA/Canada region please click here to find the Technical Support number for your country/region.
Regards,
Happytohelp01
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Please click “Accept as Solution ” on the post that solves your issue to help others find the solution.
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Question on workflow for high end inkjet prints from InDesign CS4

Photographs are imaged in Photoshop using Adobe 1998 as a profile. These files are linked in InDesign. My question is how should I output the files from InDesign. I've tried "High Quality Print" saving the files as a PDF then parsing those files with Photoshop as high res files. But the files lack the quality in the original photoshop files.
My system in completely calibrated and I'm quite used to creating output for both offset printing (generally as per vendors instructions) as well us highend digital printing.
Thanks ahead for your comments.

You need an ICC profile that defines the destination color space. In this case the high end ink jet.
This will be an RGB profile. You can use a factory profile corresponding to the printer model and paper (this would be part of the printer software install), or you can have a custom profile generated by reading a color target printed on the device. There are online services that can actually create the profile if you send them a print out. Follow their specific instructions if you choose to do this.
Once you have the print device ICC, check the Color Settings in ID. Make sure the RGB policy is "Preserve Embedded". As long as this was the setting at document creation, the image Adobe RGB profiles were honored.
To double check, look in the Links panel. Under ICC you should see Adobe RGB, not Document RGB.
You can also right or control click on an individual image. Go to Graphics: Image Color Settings. By profile it should say Adobe RGB, not Document RGB.
In the print dialog, Color Management, select Document radio button. Color Handling, Let InDesign Handle Colors. Printer Profile, select the Printer ICC. Do a small test print, then check the result to see if it's satisfactory.

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