Is there an android to mac mini mouse app?

I own a Galaxy S3 and want to use it as a remote for my Mac Mini. Any apps I can use?

checking the google store shows several apps such as this one.

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    Our school district has several Mac Mini's (OS 10.4.11) connected to interactive white boards (Smart). With regularity the mouse and/or keyboards will "freeze", often in the lower left hand corner of the screen, and will only operate normally when the USB cord for the Smartboard is disconnected. Then all functions of the computer return. This effectively means that the interactive whiteboard is no longer useful. Has anyone else encountered these issues with Macminis? Could it be a software issue??
    Additionally I have had constant problems with our Mac minis "freezing" in our computer lab when students are working on them. If they have several applications open this happens regularly. Are these machines prone to freezing?

    Yes sounds like you already know the answer. I'd contact Smart or whomever makes this whiteboards to see if they know about compatibility with the macmini's you use.
    As far as being prone to freezing no I've not seen any long or lengthy threads about freezing or other such complaints around here so I don't think so.
    I've had my mini for almost a year now and push it pretty hard and find it almost impossible to make it freeze,reboot,lockup or any such thing myself.

  • Mac Mini: Mouse unresponsive after sleep.

    Hello,
    I'm trying to help a friend with her Mac Mini.  For some reason the mouse is unresponsive after the computer sleeps.  I've tried using different mice to the same result.  I have tried using different USB ports to the same result.  Anything else plugged into USB is fine, its just the mice that are unresponsive.  The only way to resolve the problem is to force a restart.  The machine is stock running 10.5.1
    Any ideas?
    Thanks
    Rany

    I just bought a Mac Mini with Leopard, using wired Mighty Mouse, and also have the problem of the mouse freezing after logout.
    I have found that the mouse will freeze if the logout confirmation button is pressed with the mouse instead of return. Scrubbing the mouse rapidly across the screen while the system is processing the logout causes the mouse to freeze up almost every time.
    The work-around seems to be to use return logout, and don't touch the mouse until the login screen is presented.
    This problem also occurred with a Logitech mouse, which is why I bought the wired Apple mouse. (In order to isolate the problem to Apple hardware or eliminate the problem.)
    I hope that this problem is fixed soon -- I've just switched over from Windows Vista and am downgrading my old Dell box to Windows XP, because I wouldn't give Windows Vista to my worst enemy!

  • I would like to know if there is any free mac clean up app available online?

    I would like to know if there is any free mac clean app available online?

    How to maintain a Mac
    1. Make redundant backups, keeping at least one off site at all times. One backup is not enough. Don’t back up your backups; make them independent of each other. Don’t rely completely on any single backup method, such as Time Machine. If you get an indication that a backup has failed, don't ignore it.
    2. Keep your software up to date. In the Software Update preference pane, you can configure automatic notifications of updates to OS X and other Mac App Store products. Some third-party applications from other sources have a similar feature, if you don’t mind letting them phone home. Otherwise you have to check yourself on a regular basis. This is especially important for complex software that modifies the operating system, such as device drivers. Before installing any Apple update, you must check that all such modifications that you use are compatible.
    3. Don't install crapware, such as “themes,” "haxies," “add-ons,” “toolbars,” “enhancers," “optimizers,” “accelerators,” "boosters," “extenders,” “cleaners,” "doctors," "tune-ups," “defragmenters,” “firewalls,” "barriers," “guardians,” “defenders,” “protectors,” most “plugins,” commercial "virus scanners,” "disk tools," or "utilities." With very few exceptions, this stuff is useless, or worse than useless.
    The more actively promoted the product, the more likely it is to be garbage. The most extreme example is the “MacKeeper” scam.
    As a rule, the only software you should install is that which directly enables you to do the things you use a computer for — such as creating, communicating, and playing — and does not modify the way other software works. Use your computer; don't fuss with it.
    Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it. Otherwise you may create problems that are very hard to solve.
    The free anti-malware application ClamXav is not crap, and although it’s not routinely needed, it may be useful in some environments, such as a mixed Mac-Windows enterprise network.
    4. Beware of trojans. A trojan is malicious software (“malware”) that the user is duped into installing voluntarily. Such attacks were rare on the Mac platform until sometime in 2011, but are now increasingly common, and increasingly dangerous.
    There is some built-in protection against downloading malware, but you can’t rely on it — the attackers are always at least one day ahead of the defense. You can’t rely on third-party protection either. What you can rely on is common-sense awareness — not paranoia, which only makes you more vulnerable.
    Never install software from an untrustworthy or unknown source. If in doubt, do some research. Any website that prompts you to install a “codec” or “plugin” that comes from the same site, or an unknown site, is untrustworthy. Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be acquired directly from the developer. No intermediary is acceptable, and don’t trust links unless you know how to parse them. Any file that is automatically downloaded from a web page without your having requested it should go straight into the Trash. A website that claims you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, is rogue.
    In OS X 10.7.5 or later, downloaded applications and Installer packages that have not been digitally signed by a developer registered with Apple are blocked from loading by default. The block can be overridden, but think carefully before you do so.
    Because of recurring security issues in Java, it’s best to disable it in your web browsers, if it’s installed. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This action is mandatory if you’re running any version of OS X older than 10.6.8 with the latest Java update. Note: Java has nothing to do with JavaScript, despite the similar names. Don't install Java unless you're sure you need it. Most people don't.
    5. Don't fill up your boot volume. A common mistake is adding more and more large files to your home folder until you start to get warnings that you're out of space, which may be followed in short order by a boot failure. This is more prone to happen on the newer Macs that come with an internal SSD instead of the traditional hard drive. The drive can be very nearly full before you become aware of the problem. While it's not true that you should or must keep any particular percentage of space free, you should monitor your storage consumption and make sure you're not in immediate danger of using it up. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of free space on the startup volume for normal operation.
    If storage space is running low, use a tool such as the free application OmniDiskSweeper to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the most space. Move rarely-used large files to secondary storage.
    6. Relax, don’t do it. Besides the above, no routine maintenance is necessary or beneficial for the vast majority of users; specifically not “cleaning caches,” “zapping the PRAM,” "resetting the SMC," “rebuilding the directory,” "defragmenting the drive," “running periodic scripts,” “dumping logs,” "deleting temp files," “scanning for viruses,” "purging memory," "checking for bad blocks," "testing the hardware," or “repairing permissions.” Such measures are either completely pointless or are useful only for solving problems, not for prevention.
    The very height of futility is running an expensive third-party application called “Disk Warrior” when nothing is wrong, or even when something is wrong and you have backups, which you must have. Disk Warrior is a data-salvage tool, not a maintenance tool, and you will never need it if your backups are adequate. Don’t waste money on it or anything like it.

  • Mac Blue Tooth Mini Mouse Right Click Failure

    After installing 10.5.1, my Logitech MX 310 optical mouse froze the system, and I found there was an incompatibility without a patch as yet.
    The reason I used the Logitech is that no matter what I do with the Mac Mini mouse (preferences reset, reinstall batteries) I can not get the right click contextual menu feature to work but one in 20 tries. I am not the only one.

    Correction: its the Mighty Mouse. i have tried two new apple mice and the following is the case;I can set the left side as the secondary contextual click, and it works. However, the right side will not work except as the primary. This could not be only me.

  • Mac Mini and USB 2.0 hubs (hubs stop working within a month)

    I have an aluminum Mini running OSX 10.6.6 (Snow Leopard). With only 4 USB ports, I have need of a USB hub to accommodate my external drives and other peripherals: keyboard/mouse, camera and iPhone have to use the existing ports in the Mini (difficult access to ports due to space limitations), leaving one port for up to 4 external drives (older drives 40-60gb used for backup and extra storage).
    I have problems using powered USB 2.0 hubs with this computer; I have 'burned out' 2 hubs since buying the Mini in February. They just flat out stop working, though they still show power (the power indicator light on the hubs); no peripheral is recognized when plugged into the hub (which worked fine for about a month). I can unplug the 'must use Mini ports' (camera, iPhone, charger, etc) and the peripheral drives are recognized and work normally when plugged directly into the Mini ports.
    One hub was a Belkin 4-port hub (about 1 year old) and the other was a GE 3-port hub with several flash card readers (19-in-1 card reader), also about a year old. Is there any reasonable explanation why powered hubs would suddenly stop working, related to use with the Mac Mini 2010 aluminum version?
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    There have been times when I powered up a drive connected to a powered hub and both the hub and the drive indicated activity but the drive didn't mount. On those occasions the drives sometimes would not appear in Disk Utility, and other times would appear, but would not be "mountable". I didn't know what the best way to deal with that was, so I would just turn the drive off, hoping the lack of mounting on the desktop meant no real drive activity was occurring and I wouldn't risk data loss or drive damage. So far all the drives seem to work fine when plugged directly into the back of the mini.
    The main external hard drive I was using when the Belkin hub failed (iomega 40g) is USB 2.0 only (no firewire). I have another drive that is only firewire (la cie 60g)... so it wasn't a factor. Two other external drives are ACOM, one 40g one 120g, and then there's my old iMac G5 disk (display fizzled and everything but the disk recycled through Apple's recycling program) which is mounted in an external enclosure and is part of the USB contingent, but is not being used for anything but backup (all three both USB 2 and FW400 capable). (I know, too many toys... but why throw them out?)
    The USB hubs both had their own power supplies, too, and I never used them without power (though I tried it as part of troubleshooting, before reading the Apple article on USB and power requirements). Other USB devices that only work when plugged into the mac directly are my Epson Stylus CX4800 all-in-one, and my Radio Shark.
    So, whaddya think? Should I risk buying another powered USB hub or just live with plugging in peripherals to one available USB port (through a short USB 2.0 extension) and only use one at a time? That would be a bit of a pain, but if there are no issues you've heard of with Mac USB ports (several unanswered questions in the Mini Support forums here involving USB and peripherals, I noticed), what else would explain the seemingly short lives of USB hubs?
    Oh, here's something I just remembered: the last time the Belkin hub was working (last night), I had my Radtech BT mouse charger cable plugged in (not charging, mouse not attached) along with two of the external hard drives, and my Fuji camera USB cable. I got an error message onscreen (on the Mini) that a drive had been improperly ejected (or put away?), yet the hard drive in question was still mounted on the desktop. I looked at the hub, and the loose ends of the charger and the camera USB cable were touching. Could that have caused the error (and maybe the hub to fail)? (Edit: the camera cable I think was plugged into the mini's one available port; 3 external drives and the mouse charger were plugged into the hub, _but only one drive powered up and in use (3rd edit)_. The camera end of its USB cable contacted the mini-plug end of the mouse charger... could that have short-circuited the hub? +That wouldn't explain the failure of the GE hub a couple weeks before... but I don't know if any of this is connected, so to speak--2nd edit.+)
    Message was edited by: blick
    Message was edited by: blick
    Message was edited by: blick

  • Mac Mini first boot and bluetooth keyboard not recognised

    Hi Apple Support Community-
    I have just purchased a brand new Mac Mini and App Wireless Keyboard.  Unfortunately upon first boot, the Mac Mini is requesting I connect my bluetooth keyboard by switching it on, however even though the green light flashes, after the 5 second startup acknowledgement, there is no response from the Mac Mini.
    To confirm the keyboard is working, I have successfully paired it with my MacBook.  I do not have a USB Keyboard or Mouse and without purchasing additional hardware, do you have any suggestions to work around this problem?
    Thanks, Julian

    Hi Julian,
    Sometime a Mac can't pickup the connection of a bluetooth keyboard or mouse is normal. Whatever your Mac is brand new or not.
    I will do the following if the brand new Mac can't pickup the bluetooth connection, but make sure the bluetooth keyboard and mouse is not yet paired with other computer, that means you have to un-pair the keyboard and mouse from your MacBook before you perform the follow step:
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    - Switch off the Keyboard and Mouse which not yet paired with other computer, remove its battery, and re-install the battery after 10 seconds
    - Switch on the Keyboard and Mouse first, make sure both devices have a green light flashes (the light flashed at intervals, like a pulse **...**...sorry my poor English), that means the devices is discoverable.
    - Switch on the Mac asap if all the bluetooth keyboard and mouse is ready, and let the Mac pair both device (according the screen instruction)
    If the method still doesn't work, the worst case is: i'm afraid you have to connect wired keyboard and mouse to finish the Setup Assistant, and pair both bluetooth devices by Bluetooth Preferences. Once both bluetooth devices connected, disconnect wired keyboard and mouse.

  • Mac Mini and thunderbolt/vga to LCD TV

    Hi All,
    Here is an interesting one......
    I have just taken delivery of 5 new Mac Minis which have the thunderbolt port on them.  The Mac Minis each connect using displayport tb/vga adapter to a switch then on to 5 LCD TVs.
    The HDMI/DVI is not used.
    In this config, if I start a Mac Mini the display will not route through the Thunderbolt/vga adapter to any of the TVs (even though I have selected them on the switch). The display seems to want to go through the default HDMI port.
    If I connect a standard PC monitor to the tb/vga adapter and reboot, the screen shows correctly on the monitor.  If I then change cables without a reboot, the LCD TVs show correctly!
    I can add the PC monitor as a second monitor using HDMI/DVI and ensure that the outputs are mirrored AND that the VGA display is the primary.  However, on reboot it's as if the details are all forgotten!
    Searching around it seems that there are issues with Mac Minis and VGA connections to LCD TVs.  That said, I wanted to put my environment out there and see if anyone had an ideas.
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    Hey Spost!
    You have explained exactly what happened to me last night.  I was afraid it was part of the 10.8.3 update or the latest ATV software update that hit this week.   I tried from my macbook pro and the airplay from 10.8.3 and the atv software worked fine.  
    Previously my mac mini was connected to a monitor in my basement but last night i made it "headless" and moved it to my "server closet"  airplaying prior to the move worked great ... then last night 4:3 Green Screen. 
    My guess is the computer needs to be connected to a external display in order for airplay resolution to figure itself out.   Via Logmein i could see that the Mirror mode wanted to use the resolution that fit the mac and not what was best for the Apple TV ... Even forcing the change made the setting go right back to this mac. 
    Looks to be a bug in a plist file that apple would need to fix as many people run headless mac mini's and now wish to AirPlay to their Apple TV's without the need for a external cable run. 

  • Mac Mini s-video vs. PowerBook s-video quality

    Is there notable difference between Mac Mini's s-video output (with the DVI to s-video adapter) and PowerBook G4 1.67 s-video output?
    I'm asking this because I've found PowerBook s-video output to be quite good. I can easily use my Powerbook on a CRT 28" WS TV. If Mac Mini delivers same quality, I'm quite sure I will get one to replace DVD, CD and digi-tv on the living room.
    This subject briefly surfaced on another thread, but I decided to ask it more visibly.

    Yep,
    I have the powerbook 1.67 and a mac mini core duo, the powerbook handles s-video really well in terms of resolutions however the mini fails, it cannot manage anamorphic displays which are rubbish if youve got a widescreen tv. However in terms of quality they are both great even though the powerbook has 128mb video card the mini easily matches.

  • Can i have multiple monitor with my mac mini ?

    Can i have multiple monitor with my mac mini like i do with my PC ?  2 differents screens.. not mirror.

    There's lots of Mac Mini models since 2006 or so. What do you have?
    Most support two monitors but how you do it is different depending on model.
    Put this phrase into Google
            dual monitors, mac mini
    and you'll come up with the solution needed based on which MM you have.

  • Mac Mini for Digital Signage?

    I need to bring digital text and video on a vertical large plasma or lcd screen at least 42".
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    And last not least, what software would be best to display the text and the video images simultanously?
    Lots of questions, but I hope somebody of you has already done this and will be able to tell me if it works well or has any problems.
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    Whodany
    imac G5   Mac OS X (10.4.3)  

    Hello clintself
    Try deleting the Keynote and then downloading it again from the Mac App Store under the Purchases section.
    OS X Mavericks: Install, update, and uninstall apps
    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14299
    Mac App Store: Buy, download, and install apps
    http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11493
    Regards,
    -Norm G.

  • Audio output from Mac mini 2009

    I have a 2009 Mac mini with mini dvi and mini display port outputs. Just bought an hdmi tv to use as the display. I understand audio is not supported out of the mini DVI, but what about the mini display port? I was thinking of using a mini display port to hdmi cable. Trying to avoid an additional cable for audio.

    There are two 2009 Mac mini models, Early 2009 and Late 2009. I can tell you for sure that the Early '09 Mac mini does not have integrated audio from the mini-DIsplayPort. It was my understanding that the Late '09 Mac minis built in 2009 also did not have integrated audio, but those made in early 2010 did. The only way to know for sure would be to test it. Apple reports that some m-DP adapters are not adhering to the VESA standard and even Macs with integrated audio in the m-DP do not with these poorly made adapters. Apple is only recommending the Moshi and Griffin adapters.
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    If your mini does not have integrated audio you can get a cool adapter that will solve that issue from Monoprice;
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    Dah•veed

  • Should I buy an iMac or a Mac mini?

    HI everyone! Can't decide which one to purchase! I quite like the idea of the portability of the Mac mini and would probably use it alot with my tv for entertainment, but was looking to get the new mid range model for additional space, better specs etc. But the price would be edging near iMac territor, plus I'd probably also need a new monitor for the Mac mini. Just wondering how people have found there experiences with the Mac mini, would they recommend it or just recommend on iMac instead? Especially since the price differenice not bring too different including the external monitor Just to note, Ive heard about the lack of being able to modify the new Mac minis, this isent a problem for me as I'm not big into tech and wouldnt even know where to start on doing something like that!   thanks in advane for your advice!

    I’m a recent iMac-to-mini convert. I’ve had two iMacs since 2006. Both served me well, but I use my computer mostly for editing text, and when the ultrawide monitors came out, I realised that having two documents or windows open side by side would be very handy for me. So I bought one, used it with my iMac until the new minis arrived, and then bought the mid-range i5 with a 256 GB SSD and 16 GB of RAM (needed for running Windows in a virtual machine). A big improvement from my old (2009) iMac. If you don’t need higher-range graphics or four cores, a mini will be fine. You can pick and choose the size and quality of monitor that best suits your needs and budget. The upgradeability of the new minis isn’t great, but then neither is it for the iMacs. I liked my iMacs, but I will never buy another.

  • Mac Mini Intel 1.83 HDD doing a clicking sound ever 15 seconds

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  • Logic Nope With G4 Mac Mini (Non-gigabet version)

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