Lens calibration with film camera?

I have a few film cameras with a fixed (not interchangeable) lens. I get my film developed and scanned, then work on the pictures in LR. Does anyone have any thoughts on using the software to create a custom profile for these cameras? Can I shoot the charts in the same way, get the film developed and scanned, then run the calibration on the scanned images?
Thanks in advance...

I'd think that as long as you can hold all the variables in development and scanning constant, and your scan covers precisely the area of the frame, this should be fine. Those are both pretty big ifs, though...

Similar Messages

Interested in buying an old 35mm prime lens for my film camera that would fit and EF mount.

Interested in buying an old 35mm prime lens for my film camera that would fit and EF mount. I've found plenty of FD mounts and plenty of newer EF lenses around $200-300. Would like somethign in between if anyone has something. Does not have to be Canon brand.

I would not buy Canon FD or Minolta MD lenses as they will need a very expensive modification on order to work with any Canon EOS camera. (film or digital) There are cheap adapters available, but they have cheap glass optics that ruin the image quality.
Old Manual Focus lenses from Nikon, Pentax, and Olympus can use a very inexpensive adapter with Canon EOS cameras and still give great results.
More info here: Using Manual Focus Lenses on Canon EOS bodies
Mike Sowsun
S110, SL1, 5D Mk III

What canon film cameras work with modern digital camera lenses

I want to pick up a film camera (cheaply, I hope) that will work with my recent vintage canon lenses (the type I use on a canon D1iii).
Anyone clue me in on what would work (or what to avoid?)

Any Canon EOS body can use any Canon EF lens.
If you're looking for something in the vein of your 1D Mk III, you might want a 1-series film body. Otherwise the EOS 3 is comparable in build to the 5D/7D, relatively affordable, and widely available on the used market. Cheaper bodies abound if you just want to get light onto film, but the handling and build quality suffers... if you're accustomed to your 1D, you may find the Rebel line frustrating.

How / where can I learn the meaning of the numbers and letters associated with each camera model?

Also meaning of camera model names such as PowerShot, EOS, etc.
Thanks!

The Powershot series are all point & shoot cameras. The letter prefer in the model number is a class within the point & shoot category. The "G" series Powershots, for example, are advanced point & shoot bodies and somewhat high end considering they are point & shoot cameras (they're often the second camera that a DSLR owner will use they're going somewhere that a DSLR is either not permitted or simply not practical. I had to travel for a busines trip recently and I had room in my bag to throw my G1 X in... but not room for my larger DSLRs and large lenses.
The EOS bodies are all SLR or DSLR (SLR = single lens reflex camera and without that letter "D" on the front it implies it's a "film" camera. With the letter D it's a "digital" camera. Canon does not make a "film" SLR anymore -- so that's really a historical note to mention the "SLR" category.)
Within the EOS system, you could break the system into roughly three major groupings... entry, mid-level, and pro.
All "Rebel" series bodies are entry level. Note that "entry" level for a DSLR is still a world ahead of point & shoots -- so don't think of these as low-end cameras. In terms of model numbers, in North America, Canon uses a letter/number/suffix combination. Currently all Rebel bodies start with "T". The first was the T1i, then T2i, T3i (and T3 without the "i" suffix), T4i, T5i, (and T5 without the "i" suffix), T6i, and T6s. Higher numbers are more recent models (the T6i and T6s were just introduced a few weeks ago.) If there is no suffix then it's a more basic model. The "i" denotes the higher end of the entry range. But recently Canon introduced the T6s which is the highest end Rebel model and has some features previously only found in mid-level models.
The Rebels include "scene" based shoting modes commonly found on point & shoots in addition to the more advanced shooting modes which are (by far) the most popular among DSLR shooters. Part of the whole point of buying a DSLR is the incredible boost in image quality you get when you get a camera out of automatic mode, take control of the exposure settings, and use a larger lens and sensor.
The Canon mid-level EOS cameras all have 2 numbers followed by the "D" suffix. E.g. 10D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D, 60D, and 70D (currently only the 60D & 70D are still produced.) These bodies introduce features found on the pro-level bodies (like the 2nd LCD display on top, extra direct-setting buttons so you don't have to navigate menus, and a 2nd large control dial on the rear) but still retain the entry level features like the "scene" based sooting modes that beginners might use.
The high-level bodies have just one number digit, like 1D, 5D, 6D, and 7D. But when Canon needs to create a newer version they can't really increase that numberic digit... so instead they rev the model by calling it a "Mark II", "Mark III", "Mark IV". etc. So it's not really the "5D" these days... it's the 5D Mark III (or simply 5D III). The 1D is now the 1D X. The 7D is now the 7D II.
A few odd things happen in this category... first, all of these bodies with the exception of the 7D II get "full frame" sensors. This is a rather large image sensor which is the same size as a single frame of 35mm film. It measures roughly 36m wide by 24mm tall. The entry and mid-level cameras all have "APS-C" size sensors which measures approximately 22mm wide by about 15mm tall (which is very large compared to what a point & shoot camera would have, but not as big as these full-frame sensors.) When you look at images that have a tack-sharp subject... and yet a beautifully soft out-of-focus background... that requries a large sensor to produce that result. You can not get that result with a point & shoot or camera phone.
The 7D II still has an APS-C sensor, but it's the best APS-C sensor can makes today. That camera body is heavily optimized for fast-action photography (the 1D X is also optimized for very fast action shooting and outperforms the 7D II -- but the 1D X is Canon's "flagship" camera -- so no surprise there.)
The 6D also stands out as that was introduced to be an "entry level" "full-frame" body. Prior to the 6D, all entry level cameras were basically about $2500 or more (for the body only). This is a full-frame camera for about $1800 (body only price -- that does not include a lens.)
Incidentally... these pro level bodies finally drop the "scene" based shooting modes that beginner's might use. They almost might have particularly advanced focusing systems that might even be a bit intimidating for beginners (except for the 6D as that's a bit of an exception. It's actually considered an "entry level" full-frame camera.
With the exception of the 6D, I would shy away from recommending Canon's high-end bodies for beginners. I've found the focus system alone can be intimidating for people and you really do have to dedicate some time to learning the system. If you don't take the time to learn the system, then you're really wasting your money because these cameras are amazing IF (and only if) you take the time to learn what they can do that other cameras cannot do... and learn when, why, and how to exploit those advantages. It wont just happpen without some effort on the part of the photographer.)
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

I have a EOS Rebel Ti film camera which I used for business years ago, 3 lenses, wide angle to

telephoto. Is there a market for these and do the lenses work on current digital Canon cameras?

Mike wrote:
Hi jonesy!
Thanks for the post.
All EOS cameras, both 35mm and film, have the Canon EF lens mount. Any of our EOS Digital SLR cameras will work with the same lenses you were using with your EOS Rebel Ti.
The reference to "all EOS cameras, both 35mm and film" is sure to confuse some people, especially if this is the first time they've heard of a full-frame Rebel. And as most owners of digital Rebels are aware, not all EOS cameras have the EF lens mount, which does not accept EF-S lenses.
So I'd put it this way:
"All EOS film cameras have the Canon EF lens mount. Since all of our EOS digital cameras can accept lenses disigned for the EF mount, the lenses you were using on your EOS Rebel Ti will work on any EOS digital camera."
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

FAQ: Will Lightroom work with my camera, or Why won't my raw files open?

What is a raw file?
A raw file is the unprocessed data that was captured by your camera sensor when you took your picture. The only settings on your camera that apply to this file are aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. This means that any effects you may have applied to the file, such as white balance or black and white, may not appear in Lightroom. Your camera will create a JPEG copy of your raw file with all current settings applied and save that within the raw file for use as a thumbnail by most applications. When you first view a raw file in Lightroom, you will see this thumbnail, then Lightroom will read the raw data and create its own thumbnail, which may have a different appearance.
How does Lightroom work with raw camera files?
Lightroom interprets the raw data and makes image information out of it. But every camera has a unique sensor and thus has a unique form of raw file. Even though camera manufactures may use the same file extension each time (e.g. Nikon raw files are always .NEF), each camera model has a different way of storing information. Because of this, we must continually update Lightroom for new cameras. As we add new cameras to the list (over 300 now) we update our published list of supported cameras.
Will the raw files from my camera work with Lightroom?
To determine whether your camera is supported by Lightroom, check this list:
Supported cameras
Go to Help > Updates to install the latest release. You can also manually download and install Lightroom updates:
Macintosh
Windows
What if I own a previous version of Lightroom?
Supposing you have a camera that came out after the release of a newer version of Lightroom, so that your version of Elements is no longer recieving updates, you have two basic options:
Purchase the latest version of Lightroom that supports your camera.
Use the latest version of the free DNG Converter (for Macintosh or Windows)
You can convert your files to the universaly compatible DNG format (the files will work with any version of the Lightroom). See In depth : Digital Negative (DNG) for more information.
For more assistance on DNG:
Adobe TV - The Advantages of the DNG File Format
Adobe TV - On Using DNG in Lightroom
Adobe TV - DNG Enhancements in Lightroom 4
Can I perform tethered capture from my camera to Lightroom?
Lightroom has the ability to automatically import images from your camera, as you shoot, life. To learn more about setting up and useing tethered capture, please see Import photos from a tethered camera. This list shows all the cameras that Lightroom supports for tethered shoooting:
Tethered camera support | Lightroom 4, 3
Use this document if you run into trouble when performing tethered shooting:
Troubleshoot tethered capture | Lightroom 4, 3
For more assistance on Tethered Shooting:
Adobe TV - Import photos from a tethered camera
Will Lightroom help me automatically compensate for the image distortion caused by my camera lens?
The Develop module of Lightroom includes Lens Correction which can read what lens was used from the metadata. With this information it can pick a profile that will reduce distortion caused by the curvature of the lens. For a list of which lenses are supported by which camera bodies, see this list:
Lens profile support | Lightroom 4, 3
If your lens is not currently supported, you have a few options:
Apply the lens correction manually
Use the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader (Download: Mac, Win) to see if someone else has created a profile your camera and lens
Use the Adobe Lens Profile Creator (Download: Mac, Win) to make your own profile for your camera and lens.
For more assistance on Lens Profile Corrections:
Adobe TV - Lens Correction & Perspective Correction
Adobe TV - Create Stunning Images
Adobe TV - Correcting Perspective
Adobe TV - Apply Lens Corrections
Julieanne Kost's Blog - Lens Correction Profiles
Additional resources
For more information about Adobe Camera Raw, please check these links:
Troubleshoot Camera Raw
Why doesn’t my version of Photoshop or Lightroom support my camera?
In depth: Camera Raw
Lightroom Jourrnal (developers blog) about Camera Raw releases
Julieanne Kost's Camera Raw video tutorials
Adobe Camera Raw turns 10

Yes, junky thumb drives pour like rain. Verify same with another or a good thumb drive.
Whats the format of the USB stick?
Use Sandisk or other reliable drives.

Can I connect my 35 mm film camera to my MacBook pro computer?

Hello. I would like to know if I can input images from my 35 mm film camera to my MacBook Pro computer. Is the use of a scanner the only answer? If I purchase a digital camera, I would like to have one that requires low energy from a battery. I am looking for one that has 12 megapixels of resolution and has an adjustable focal length from 25mm to 180 mm. I read that digital cameras require much energy from a battery. And I would prefer to use a small battery over one that is a NiMh or is a lithium ion.

but an AM Vantage is also cool (and much cheaper)
There you go: This is my new (demo model 2008 with 4,500 Kilometers) Vantage. The actual car and photo the day I took it from the dealer in Vancouver. Just have to figure out if i can change my name from Bimmer to Vantage in this forum.

Anyone had issue with ipadair camera?

The image looks grainy and photos are not clear. I have updated to all latest updates...Any suggestions?

Hi Partha,
Take a look at the camera troubleshooting suggestions in this iPhone article, it has a bunch of great tips that will work for all iOS devices.
iPhone: Hardware troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2802
Camera isn't functioning or has undesired image quality
If the screen shows a closed lens or black image, force quit the Camera app.
If you do not see the Camera app on the Home screen, try searching for it in Spotlight. If the camera does not show up in the search, check to make sure that Restrictions are not turned on by tappingSettings > General > Restrictions.
Ensure the camera lens is clean and free from any obstructions. Use a microfiber polishing cloth to clean the lens.
Cases can interfere with the camera and the flash. Try gently cleaning the lens with a clean dry cloth or removing the case if you see image or color-quality issues with photos.
Try turning iPhone off and then back on.
Tap to focus the camera on the subject. The image may pulse or briefly go in and out of focus as it adjusts.
Try to remain steady while focusing:
Still images: Remain steady while taking the picture. If you move too far in any direction, the camera automatically refocuses to the center.
Note: If you take a picture with iPhone turned sideways, it is automatically saved in landscape orientation.
Video: Adjust focus before you begin recording. You can also tap to readjust focus while recording. Exiting the Camera application while recording will stop recording and will save the video to the Camera Roll.
Note: Video-recording features are not available on original iPhone or iPhone 3G.
If your iPhone has a front and rear camera, try switching between them to verify if the issue persists on both.
Issue not resolved
My issue is still not resolved. What do I do next?
Contact Apple Support.
-Jason

Acquire with two camera's to one image??

Here is my configuration:
Windows 2000
PII 866
512mb ram
1) Imaq PCI-1409
1) Imaq-A6822
2) JAI CV-M50 camera's
2) Pentex C60607 lens'
I would like to snap an image with both cameras and combine the two to make one image. The part will not be moving and time is not critical. The camera's will be mounted 3.8' above the part which will give me about a 3' square area for each camera. So basically I would like to end up with one image approx. 3' X 6'. How is the best way to go about doing this? Or is it even possible?

It all depends on how accurately you want the images to be joined.
If you just want to display them as a single image, it is very easy. IMAQ ImageToImage will paste one image into another.
If you want to seamlessly join them together, and do it accurately enough for measurements or feature detection, it is a lot more difficult. It is impossible to rotate and align the cameras so that two images can be pasted together accurately without manipulation of the images. You will need some mapping tools and figure out how to rotate and align the second image with the first. You will need a small portion of the images to overlap so they can be matched up. You may need to map both images to eliminate distortion first. If your part has a noticeable thickness
variations, you will get different perspectives for the two images.
Bruce
Bruce Ammons
Ammons Engineering

Would a Tamron 18-270 mm lens work with a Canon T51

This forum has been a blessing to me, and I am asking YET another question.
I just purchased a Canon T5i and two lenses, 18-135mm and 55-250mm, thanks to the direction of this wonderful forum.
I am also looking for a lens that would work as an "all-in-one" lens for my travel photography, as changing lenses is not something I like to do on my travels.
Has anyone had any experience using theTamrom 18-270mm with the Canon T5i? Is it compatible with this camera? I read some great reviews about the lens, but do need some information.
Thank you so much!!!!

Yes it will "fit" your T5i. Now will it work?
You already know my answer. I don't like off-brand lenses and this Tammy is no exception to that statement.
You might consider one review:
Slow and occasionally indecisive autofocus
Geometric distortion across much of the zoom range
Significant chromatic aberration at wideangle and telephoto (especially 270mm)
Macro performance rather compromised (very soft at F6.3, focus shifts on stopping down)
Uneven zoom action, zoom creep when not locked
Slightly sub-par build quality
What you already have is better than most of the off-brand lenses out there. That first concern on the list should turn you off on this Tamron.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

How can i add the Sigma 10mm 2.8 Fisheye lens profile from the camera profile in windows to lightroom 5?

It only seems to give me a 15mm fisheye option for Sigma and not the 10mm even though it is a profile in the camera profiles folder.
Can anyone help with importing this profile into Lightroom?

nickpearse wrote:
Just so it is black and white for my sake. I am shooting with a Nikon D7100 using a Sigma Fisheye 10mm 2.8 and using the Lens Profile of the Sigma 15mm 2.8mm on Lightroom.
Then the correct profile to use is the Sigma 10mm F2.8 if you want proper Vignetting correction and matching Distortion correction, but you'll need to shoot camera raw images (i.e. no JPEG lens profile). This is also why you are only seeing partial correction. As I said, "With a crop factor camera only the central crop area of the full-frame Sigma 15mm lens profile will be applied."
That said there is absolutely nothing wrong with using the Sigma 15mm lens profile with your crop factor Nikon D7100 if you are happy with the partial correction results, but you can also do this using the correct Sigma 10mm lens profile (set less than 100). There is a fisheye correction plugin called Fisheye-Hemi that works very similar in that it only applies partial correction. You're getting about the same results as Fisheye-Hemi for free using partial correction with the LR lens profile tool. That should make you happy! I suggest experimenting with both the 15mm and 10mm lens profiles and start shooting camera raw image files. Your're not realizing the camera's full capability shooting JPEGs!
In the DSC_7098 images posted none of them look very sharp (slow shutter speed?). Other than geometric correction I can't judge the posted images for "sharpness" in the corrected areas, which is the major concern. The biggest issue with rectilinear correction of fisheye images is loss of detail in areas with the most correction (edges and corners). If that were not the case people would use fisheye lenses for ALL wide-angle images and simply correct them inside LR. Sadly that's not the case and using LR's Lens Profile Distortion and other transform tools to correct fisheye images considerably softens the corrected areas (sides and corners).
Fisheye geometric distortion with some subjects is almost undetectable. So how much correction you need will vary by subject type and what the end use for the image. Any fisheye image that has correction applied will lose sharpness in the corrected areas, which may be fine for most purposes other than large prints.So it's best not to strive for 100% rectilinear correction–Just the correction needed to make the image look better.
Canon 8-15mm F4L FE on 5D MKII Full-Frame @ 15mm (No correction)
Looks good to me with no correction!
For more flexibility and better results PS's Wide Angle Adaptive filter and content aware fill tools will retain more image detail in the corrected areas. Here's the same lens and camera with an image processed in PS:
15mm Full-Frame Fisheye
LR Distortion = 50 (partial) PS Adaptive Wide Angle Filter + Content Aware Fill
The corner image detail is about the same in both of the above images at 1:1 view. Partial LR Distortion correction is good!
So what happens if I apply 100 Distortion correction to the image inside LR?
1:1 Compare View (lower-left) with LR Distortion = 100
100% LR Distortion correction of fisheye images is NOT good IMHO!

Is canon EF 24-85mm F3.5-4.5 lens compatible with canon eos 6D ? is it work fully automatic ?

Is canon EF 24-85mm F3.5-4.5 lens compatible with canon eos 6D ? is it work fully automatic ?

6D requires lenses with an EF mount. You list your lens as an EF (the mount style) 24-85 zoom so yes it will work but it may not provide nice crisp images on such a modern high mpixel camera. The newer bodies show the weaknesses of older consumer grade lenses.
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Nikon D800 Camera not listed in the Lens Correction Filter under camera models in Photoshop CC 2014

I do not see a Nikon D 800 Camera listed in the Lens Correction Filter under camera models. Is there any way to update this ?

The lens distortion corrections are encoded in such a way that they are independent of the body of camera that they were determined with--in other words they are in terms of millimeters not pixels. The only issue is that lens profiles computed on a crop-frame body can't reliably be applied for the same lens on a full-frame body because the lens profile from a crop-frame body won't cover the entire full-frame lens image circle.
So as you're looking for a lens profile just make sure you're using a full-frame one if you have a full-frame or crop-frame camera, and don't try to use a crop-frame one on a full-frame camera. I'd expect Adobe only computes crop-frame profiles for crop-frame lenses, and uses full-frame camera bodies on full frame lenses, so there shouldn't be a problem.

What happened with my camera? I can't explain it.

I shoot a lot so I've seen lots of things happen with my camera but this I can't explain. I had my 5D Mark III set up with a 17-40mm f/4L lens on a tripod late one night in my firends basement. I had my camera on RAW and was doing light paiting and shots with a couple 600ex R/T's. I looked at every shot after I took it to adjust lighting and I know when I do and don't take photos becuase I had my intevolometer set up to control camera shake easier and control when I do and don't ake a photo. I went back to look at the photos I took and there was an image I did not take (which is attached). It was a giant green circle that took up the entire center of the image and was perfectly centered. There was no light at all when the camera took the picture because I had lights off to control the lighting as I was showing my friends what you can do with a couplt flash units and radio transmitter as they were not photographers. No light could of reproduced because of the way the light falls off in what almost appears to be banding. The pattern as you can see on the image is extremely weird and interesting the way the pattern falls off. The weirdest part didn't even happen yet. When I loaded the image onto the computer the photo completely changed on me in Lightroom to the weirdest colorful pattern on its own without me touching a thing. I reloaded it and the same thing happened but when I renamed the file and then loaded it into lightroom the image stayed. What happened? Has anybody came accross this before? Let me know, the place is supposedly haunted but I'm sure there is an explainable reason why this happened the way it did.

It is simply a corrupted image. You did shoot it. You just can't tell because of the corrupted file. The last is how LR interpted it. I would replace the CF card. Especially if it happens again. And if it keeps happening have the camera checked out.

Panasonic Lumix LX3, shooting RAW with Film Modes

I've been shooting RAW+JPEG and testing Film Modes (for example B&W) and noticed that RAW images will import "tabula rasa" without any of the Film Mode settings applied. JPEGs are naturally as supposed.
I'm wondering if this is how it's supposed to work, as the RAW's first show a thumbail with Film Mode's settings, for example b&w first shows as b&w, but eventually Aperture processes a new thumbnail with standard raw settings. (I don't have previews on).
I know raw is raw and you can't shoot it b&w, but I can't help thinking if there are some in-camera RAW settings that Aperture just doesn't know how to read and pre-apply when it's imported.
The in-camera b&w settings would be nice starting point for further raw-editing in Aperture, but now one has to start from scratch.
Anyone know if this is how it works, maybe with other cameras too?

That's propably it. Only, I've read some reviews of LX3 that claim you can also shoot Film Modes in RAW. For example Mark Goldstein at photographyblog.com says:
"This [=film mode] applies to both JPEG and RAW files, so you can effectively shoot a black and white RAW file, for example, out of the camera if you wish (although I'm not sure why you'd want to...). "
This makes no sense to me as I believe you can only get one kind of RAW from a sensor, but it makes me wonder if there still should be a way to have some kind of B&W RAW straight from the camera and Aperture just doesn't know how to interpret it.
I also agree with Goldstein that I wouldn't want it to shoot b&w destructively, but rather as a non-destructive "layer".
Also the LX3 manual doesn't say a word that you couldn't use Film Modes when shooting RAW, and it's quite good at telling what is not applicable for certain modes.

Lens calibration with film camera?

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