Mac os 10.3.9 slowing down on eMac in one account, others are faster...why?

Hello, there.
I'm using an eMac 1.25 GHZ. I have three accounts on the machine. I'm the administrator. My account seems to be running quite slow (it takes me 49 seconds to open Appleworks, and about a minute and 1/2 to open Microsft word). My hard drive is 80 GB in size, and It has about 39 GB left in it. Every other account runs quite zippy, where as mine...well, It's sloooowww. could someone tell me why my acocunt is acting this way? I could really use any help I can get.
Thank you
-Cameron

There is a thread about a problem which sounds similar here. You might follow some of the ideas there. One is to use Activity Monitor to see if you can identify a process which causing the slowdown.
The problem was ultimately determined to be related to one of the user's preference files. So, you could take the Draconian approach of dragging your /Users/yourname/Library/Preferences folder to the desktop, log out and back in, and then see if the problem goes away. If the problem does not go away, drag the Preferences folder back to its home. If the problem does go away, then you have a corrupted preference file. Drag one or a few files from the Preferences folder back to their original home until you find the one that is causing the problem. Then, drag the rest back to make sure that your preferences are restored. If you are using the Apple Mail program, you definitely want to make sure that you restore your preference file for that.
EMAC G4 1.0 GHz Mac OS X (10.4.3)

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My iMac (2009) slows down after I go to sites that are memory intensive

I have noticed my computer slows down to a crawl after I use sites that I believe are memory intensive. Example of that is iFirstrowSports.eu (streams soccer games live). The latest one was Wix where my wife was building her web site using their html5 tools.
I have also noticed that when the system is running slow, not all websites run as slow as others. Fro example abola.pt is very slow, while yahoo.com or yahoo mail will be slow but not horrible. I am wondering if it has to do with how those sites use memory or the technology they leverage.
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I would appreciate some help and advice.
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Problem description:
machine slows down when I go to sites that use video (ifirstrowsports.eu as an example) or memory (wix site creation tools)
EtreCheck version: 2.1.8 (121)
Report generated March 1, 2015 2:34:52 PM PST
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
    iMac (27-inch, Mid 2010) (Technical Specifications)
    iMac - model: iMac11,3
    1 2.93 GHz Intel Core i7 CPU: 4-core
    4 GB RAM
        BANK 0/DIMM0
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        BANK 1/DIMM0
            2 GB DDR3 1333 MHz ok
        BANK 0/DIMM1
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        BANK 1/DIMM1
            Empty
    Bluetooth: Old - Handoff/Airdrop2 not supported
    Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Video Information: ℹ️
    ATI Radeon HD 5750 - VRAM: 1024 MB
        iMac 2560 x 1440
        spdisplays_display_connector
System Software: ℹ️
    Mac OS X 10.6.8 (10K549) - Time since boot: 18 days 7:33:22
Disk Information: ℹ️
    ST31000528AS disk0 : (931.51 GB)
        - (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
        Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / : 999.86 GB (581.16 GB free)
    OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5680H
USB Information: ℹ️
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        Time Machine (disk1s2) /Volumes/Time Machine : 2.00 TB (1.54 TB free)
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    Apple Inc. BRCM2046 Hub
        Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
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    Apple Inc. Built-in iSight
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Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
        /Library/Parallels/Parallels Service.app
    [loaded]    com.parallels.kext.prl_hid_hook (7.0 15106.786747) [Click for support]
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    [running]    com.mcafee.reporter.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.parallels.desktop.launch.plist [Click for support]
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    [running]    com.parallels.vm.prl_pcproxy.plist [Click for support]
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    [running]    com.fitbit.fitbitd.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.fitbit.galileod.plist [Click for support]
    [unknown]    com.mcafee.ssm.ScanManager.plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.mcafee.virusscan.fmpd.plist [Click for support]
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    [loaded]    com.sonos.smbbump.plist [Click for support]
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    [failed]    com.apple.CSConfigDotMacCert-[...]@me.com-SharedServices.Agent.plist
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User Login Items: ℹ️
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    Google Drive    Application (/Applications/Google Drive.app)
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    SiteAdvisor: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.1 [Click for support]
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    iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - SDK 10.7
User internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
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Safari Extensions: ℹ️
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Audio Plug-ins: ℹ️
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3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
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Time Machine: ℹ️
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        30%    syslogd
        29%    mDNSResponder
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Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
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    667 MB    Inactive RAM
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Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a diagnostic test. It’s unlikely to solve your problem. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
The purpose of the test is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party software that loads automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of the test.

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Hello there, Marol03.
The following Knowledge Base article offers up some great recommendations for troubleshooting Mac running slowly:
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http://support.apple.com/kb/PH13895
Thanks for reaching out to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Pedro.

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                    Apple, Inc Apple Keyboard
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          Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
          Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
                    Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
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FireWire Information:
Thunderbolt Information:
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          com.Logitech.Control          Center.HID
          com.Logitech.Unifying.HID          Driver
          com.Cycling74.driver.Soundflower          (1.5.1)
          org.virtualbox.kext.VBoxDrv          (4.2.14)
          org.virtualbox.kext.VBoxUSB          (4.2.14)
          org.virtualbox.kext.VBoxNetFlt          (4.2.14)
          org.virtualbox.kext.VBoxNetAdp          (4.2.14)
          com.aladdin.kext.aksfridge          (1.0.2)
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          [failed] com.apple.findmymac.plist
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          [loaded] com.adobe.CS5ServiceManager.plist
          [loaded] com.cisco.anyconnect.gui.plist
          [loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist
          [loaded] com.lexmark.hbnlistener.plist
          [loaded] com.lexmark.hostinfoupdater.plist
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          [loaded] com.Logitech.Control Center.Daemon.plist
          [loaded] com.motorola.MDMUpdater.plist
          [loaded] com.motorola.motohelper.plist
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User Launch Agents:
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User Login Items:
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          GrowlHelperApp
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          Skype
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          Flash Player.plugin
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          Flip4Mac WMV Plugin.plugin
          googletalkbrowserplugin.plugin
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User Internet Plug-ins:
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Bad Fonts:
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Top Processes by CPU:
              22%          WindowServer
               8%          Skype
               7%          coreaudiod
               6%          Google Chrome
               6%          Finder
               4%          Little Snitch Network Monitor
               3%          activitymonitord
               2%          Activity Monitor
               2%          Dropbox
               2%          EtreCheck
Top Processes by Memory:
          418 MB             firefox
          319 MB             Google Chrome
          287 MB             Airmail
          205 MB             WindowServer
          180 MB             Finder
          147 MB             Skype
          123 MB             Microsoft Excel
          115 MB             Adium
          98 MB              Espresso
          90 MB              Dock
Virtual Memory Statistics
          204 MB             Free RAM
          3.39 GB            Active RAM
          3.05 GB            Inactive RAM
          1.36 GB            Wired RAM
          19.29 GB           Page-ins
          903 MB             Page-outs

Your system is so heavily modified that, instead of trying to remove the modifications piecemeal, you should erase your boot volume, reinstall OS X, and then go through the initial setup process, importing only your user data and settings from backup — not applications or other files.
Back up all data to at least two different storage devices, if you haven't already done so. The backups can be made with Time Machine or with a mirroring tool such as Carbon Copy Cloner. Preferably both. You must be certain that you can restore everything to the state it's in now.
Note that if you're running in safe mode, you can't connect to a Time Capsule or other network volume. You'll have to back up to a locally-attached hard drive.
Boot into Recovery, launch Disk Utility, and erase the startup volume with the default options. This operation will destroy all data on the volume, so you had be better be sure of your backups.
Quit Disk Utility and install OS X. If you upgraded from an older version of OS X, you'll need the Apple ID and password that you used to purchase the upgrade from the App Store, so make a note of those before you begin.
When you reboot, you'll be prompted to go through the initial setup process. That’s when you transfer the data from one of your backups. For a walkthrough, see here.
Transfer only "Users" and "Settings" – not "Applications" or "Other files." Don't transfer the Guest account, if it was enabled on the old system.
After that, run Software Update.
If you still have the problem, take the machine to an Apple Store or other authorized service provider for hardware testing.
If the problem is resolved after the clean installation, reinstall your third-party software selectively. I can only suggest general guidelines. Self-contained applications that install into the Applications folder by drag-and-drop or download from the App Store are usually safe. Anything that comes packaged as an installer or that prompts for an administrator password is suspect, and you must test thoroughly after reinstalling each such item to make sure you haven't restored the problem.
Before installing any software, ask yourself the question, "Am I sure I know how to uninstall it without having to start this process all over again?" If the answer is "no," stop.
Never install any third-party software unless you know how to uninstall it.

Each time i try to import an album, or convert wma files itunes slows down and eventually stops importing. Does anyone know why this is?

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I have been trying to import albums onto my itunes, it uploads the first few songs quickly then gradually gets slower and slower. I have also been trying to convert wma music files that already exist in my music folder and the same thing happens. Does anyone have any suggestions? I have googled it and followed advice but nothing seems to work!

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I have three computers in my house (a notebook, a laptop, and a desktop PC). The first two have internet speeds of 25/15 as advertised. The desktop is getting 8/9.5? Strange that the upload speed is actually faster than download also. I've googled every way to optimize my PC to no avail. How do you target the problem on one computer. It checks clean for spyware and viruses. I've ran an optimization of my TCP settings which changed the some registry entries, but did not change the speeds. I'm stuck!

elcid wrote:
I'm using XP on all three. I have tried wired and wireless. I disabled the wireless when I tried wired just to make sure that I'm actually on the wired connection when I check wired. The wired speed is about twice as fast as wireless, but still three times slower than normal in either case. I also have made sure that all windows updates and drivers are up to date and correct. I'm thinking it must be some sort of settings problem. A friend said something about packet size or buffer size being a possible culprit?
Ok, so when dealing with 1 PC as opposed to all, your culprits can be either hardware, software, or configuration related. First off, with this PC you gave speed results of 8/9.5. Was that wired or wireless? If it was wireless, what are your wired speeds? Use multiple sites to check (speedtest.net, speakeasy.net). What are the PC specs? Are you running any firewalls? Anti-virus protection?
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Verizon Telecom
Fiber Solution Center
Notice: Content posted by Verizon employees is meant to be informational and does not supercede or change the Verizon Forums User Guidelines or Terms or Service, or your Customer Agreement Terms and Conditions or Plan.

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ever since installing office:mac (yesterday) my new macbook slowed down a LOT! Is it now handling this software well? I noticed it was VERY slow with PPT especially. I was putting together a presentation with .jpegs and the machine bogged right down...
any body HELP?

Hey, nice to see another user from TO.
I am replying to your question since I feel that my whole Mac is acting strangely since I installed Office. Is it your Mac or just Office for you?
I just set up a second user account and was amazed at how fast things ran on it.
As mentioned in other reply, Rosetta is the reason Office:Mac more slowely since it was written for Power PC and Rosetta must translate in order for Intel Macs to use it but i am curious if it is slowing down your machine too.
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1GB RAM, 120 GB HD

System gradually slowing down?

I hope I'm not picking up a topic which has been discussed a gazillion times, but I couldn't find my specific questions after doing some searches. There's a few things I won't to clear about Mac OS.
I have a MBP 2009 with 4GB mem and 500GB HD. It still runs smoothly however it defenitly runs slower than in the beginning. I guess that's a bit normal (more programs, files, mails, junk,...).
I've been a PC user most of my life and switched about a year ago. i'm happy. I always found it necessary to do a reinstall of the OS on a pc every 1-2 years (even though I try to keep my stuff very clean). I'm curious how this effects on Mac OS?
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Also, is having installed a lot of applications (even when they are not running) slowing down the system. I guess it shouldn't as long as there's enough disk space.
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Philippe

If you have not already done so, run Disk Utility's "Verify Disk" & "Repair Permissions" steps on your HD. All utilities that do permissions repairs use exactly the same built-in function of the OS to do so, so it doesn't matter if you do this through Onyx, Disk Utility, or Disk Warrior.
The verify/repair disk step is a bit different: all utilities use the same method of detecting file system errors but (for example) Disk Warrior rebuilds file system directories from scratch (including perfectly useable ones), which often can repair damage Disk Utility can't, & has a side benefit of simplifying directory structures. Once, back when HD's were much slower & less sophisticated than they are now, this could make a large difference in file system performance. Now, it is debatable that an otherwise OK directory structure would show a noticeable improvement.
IOW, if your HD's file system is healthy or only has minor problems, Disk Warrior won't do much of anything of real value that Disk Utility can't, but it can be a lifesaver if Disk Utility can't repair certain kinds of problems it can detect.
The same is true for file fragmentation -- unless the drive is full of very fragmented files, defragmenting it probably won't show much real world improvement.
The number of inactive applications on your Mac makes almost no difference in performance. What can easily do so is the number of active processes running at any given time. As a former PC users, you may not fully appreciate the difference between quitting an app & closing all its windows. Closing all an app's windows is somewhat like old TSR (terminate & stay resident) DOS programs -- it is still using some system resources, although not as many as when it is active. So, if you aren't already doing so, remember to quit applications you do not plan on reusing for a while.
Just as importantly, don't load down the OS with a lot of unnecessary add-ons, especially ones that modify the user interface in some way. Each of these things uses some system resources; a few can destabilize the OS, causing recoverable code exceptions you may not be aware of without searching through system logs but still creating extra work for the CPU.
If or when you remove add-ons or applications, be sure to check the documentation for the proper way to do that. If you don't, you may leave behind files that impact performance.

My iMac is slowing down

My iMac is slowing down and it takes a long time to start any application. What can I do to gain more speed?

What year, screen size, CPU speed and amount of RAM installed?
How full is your Mac's hard drive?
How many applications do you run simultaneously in the background while working in another application?
Do you run any antivirus software on your Mac? Antivirus software can slow down the normal operation of OS X.
Do you run any "crapware" like Mackeeper or any other type of "crapware" like so called hard drive "cleaning" apps?
Do a search for and download and install OmniDisk Sweeper and OnyX.
Here are some of my tips for deleting or archiving data off of your internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Other things you can do to gain space.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive older emails you want to save to disc, Flash drive/s or to ext. hard drive.
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, Flash drive or ext. hard drive and/or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Uninstall apps that you no longer use. If the app has a dedicated uninstaller, use it to completely uninstall the app. If the app has no uninstaller, then just drag it to the OS X Trash icon and empty the Trash.
Also, if you save old downloaded .dmg application installer files, you can either archive and delete these or just delete the ones you think you'll never install, again.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its thing initially, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run all of the processes in the tabs. Let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be thinned out, moved, also, to the external hard drive and then either archived to disc, Flash drive or ext. hard drive and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

High processor load slows down wireless connection

My wireless connection slows to a crawl when the CPU is being utilized more than 80% (average for both CPU cores).
For example, if I have Safari and Quicktime open, web pages load very fast and the CPU load is less than 5%. When encoding a video in Quicktime, the processor load is around 85%, but web pages load very slowly in Safari (or any other browser). Ping times also increase considerably (from 25ms under low CPU load to 200-2000ms under heavy CPU load). As soon as the video is done encoding and the CPU load drops back down, web pages load fast again.
This problems only seems to apply to AirPort connections. High CPU load does not appear to affect speeds when connected via Ethernet.
Has anyone else experienced this?
MacBook Pro 15" 2.33GHz/2GB/160GB/256MB Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Has no one else experienced this? I can reproduce this problem consistently. Anything that utilizes the processor at least 40% slows down my wireless internet connection.

Macbook Pro slowed down drastically all of a sudden, Beachball constantly there

So, this morning I left my house playing a game of League of Legends and as soon as i got to work and tried to use my mac it seemed to have slowed down by 90%. Beachball there constantly as soon as I click finder, nothing loads for about 15seconds, beach ball continues swirling. Applications load up then if I hoover over one, beach ball appears again for 10 seconds. I have done a SMC Reset and PRAM reset and nothing has worked, I have killed the com.apple.finder.plist and it didn't help. Even when i go to top left Apple sign and click it, beach ball appears and I have to wait about 15seconds before the drop down bar appears.
Ive had Maverick for a while and nothing happened, im on a 2.5GhZ i5 4GB Ram Macbook pro 13"
It had first started when I used mail and i couldn't write because the text in a new email would only appear about 5 seconds after i typed it.
Now for example if I try using Safari it gives the beach ball every time we change a website.
I can't use any other apps, for example league of legends will simply not load.

If you don't already have a current backup of all data on the startup drive, back up immediately. Then see below.
Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
The title of the Console window should be All Messages. If it isn't, select
SYSTEM LOG QUERIES ▹ All Messages
from the log list on the left. If you don't see that list, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar at the top of the screen. Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then take one of the actions that you're having trouble with. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message by pressing command-V.
The log contains a vast amount of information, almost all of which is irrelevant to solving any particular problem. When posting a log extract, be selective. A few dozen lines are almost always more than enough.
Please don't indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Please don't post screenshots of log messages—post the text.
Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

Does Maverick slow down processor speed on iMac 2007?

Ever since the update on Maverick 9.1 I been experiencing very slow reponse in all of my applications, especially Safari. I tried memory clean, disk doctor, and hard drive test which show nothing really. Activity monitor shows I got about 1 GB of ram that is available when running Safari. I tried other browers with the same rainbow circle that safari has. Is it a virus? Or is my computer so old that apple is trying to force me to upgrade? (BTW, I've got 3 GB of ram and 54 GB of hard drive space avalible- and I ordered more ram to make a total of 4 GB of ram).

RAM could be one of the issues with your slower Mac performance.
You are starting to get a little low on hard drive space. 54 GBs is still alright, just need to keep an eye on this when your drives gets to 20 GBs or lower.
Do you run any antivirus software on your Mac? Antivirus software can slow down the normal operation of OS X.
If you have any commercially advertised antivirus software installed, completely uninstall this per the instructions on the developer's website.
Do you run any "crapware" like Mackeeper or any other type of so called hard drive "cleaning" or " tune up" style apps? These are a form of malware/"crapware".
Delete anything like this per the instructions on the developer's website.

How to find out what is slowing down your wireless speed

The first thing you need to do is when setting up your wireless internet is do it right from the beginning. For starters unplug and remove the batteries from all the cordless phones. If you have a wireless door bell or a repeater shut it off and unplug it.. Anything that is wireless in your house needs to be turned off. This also includes cell phones, Ipad's and Ipod's.This thing of telling the homeowner that the mircowave is causing problem is hog wash. But don't have it running while you are setting this up. In other words nothing in your house should be running including the AC and heat. Anything that is pulling hi amperage should be shut down during the set up. Now unplug all cables on the router except for your computer cable and power supply to the router. Hold the reset button in long enough to clear all settings. Now you are ready to set this up right. Sign into your router and go to My Network, if it is showing something other that your main frame computer you still have something on that the router is picking up. Find it and turn if off and reset the router again. Once everything is cleaned and the only this showing up is the computer you are ready. Now go to Speed Net or what ever you check your speed with and write down your average speed. Do three or four speed test to get the average reading. BTW, clear all cookies before you check your speed. Now go back into your router settings and rename you computer to what ever so you won't get that IP address confused with the rest of your hook up. Next take only one of your wireless devices and turn it on. Once the router picks it up rename it and put the security code on for that device to connect to the wireless device. It should also show it as being a wireless device. Also if all your devices can except performance mode go for it because the speeds will always be faster. Also start selecting one channel at a time to find the one that has the fastest speed. Try doing this close to the router, like in the same room. If you are using the performance mode your upload and download should be close to your wired connection. Now go to different parts of the house. You will see some drops but that is normal. Don't do this test on a PS3 or a WII because those speeds will always be slow no matter what you do. All Apple products won't work with Speed Net. Once you get connected to the internet it is always better to go back into your router and write down the assigned IP address and the IP address to the router sign in and manually put them in to each device. Always remember the higher security setting you can set you the faster the speed will be. Do each device as said in the above way. Something else you also might want to do is after you have set up each wireless device go back into your router setting under Wireless settings and disable SSID Broadcast. Only thing this will do is make it to where nobody can see your wireless connection. That way when someone wants to hack your router they won't be able to see it...ya can't hack what ya can't see....lol. Once you get all said wireless devices set up and connected then go back and start turning on phones...ect..ect. If you are truly getting interference you will be able to change the channel on either that device or change the channel on the router for that device. Most of the devices in this day and time should be able to except the 802.11n or the next letter down.The bad thing about the newest Verizon router is the security is still outdated for the PS3. Part two of this is Sony is still using a crap-o-la wireless internet receiver, as a result I don't care what cha do unless you hard wire it in and that still only helps some. Also this thing of putting your router on the window seal or up near the ceiling is also poo poo. If this was a true case why not just hook up a High Def antenna in the room...lol Also this thing of stating don't put the router near a wall is also doo doo. Their would have to be a load of copper wire in that wall to prevent a signal from going through it. If you think about it all wall electrical outlets are wired low to the floor. They take one room and wire them all together. They don't wire it up and down the walls. So most rooms have the wiring a foot from the floor.The most wire you will find in a house at one location is at the circuit breaker box and the box should be on a outside wall in the garage. In older homes like the 40's and 50's some are in the kitchen or a bedroom closet. On the older homes try and steer clear of those locations. Now if you are getting interference from something in your home this will be a easy way to find it. One thing Verizon needs to stop telling it's customer and that is if you get a faster speed which is more money it will correct your wireless problem...hog wash Once you spend your hard earned money and sign the contract, they forget to tell you they only guarantee that speed if it is hard wired...lol for some reason they always forget that part.

I forgot to suggest one more thing. On your computer go to start/ run/ type in MSCONFIG and go all the way to the right and click start up and then at the bottom select disable all and then reboot. Windows will only load what it need to operate. After that go back into MSCONFIG and go back to the start up and put a check into what ever security program you are using and reboot. Everything will still work fine. The only thing you are doing here is not running all the programs each time you turn your computer on.What this will do if you do this is it will start programs faster and it also is less wear and tear on your pooter. If you want to see what I am talking about go here>> http://www.blackviper.com/ and he will explain and show in full detail what I am talking about as far as being robbed by unnecessary programs running in the back ground. He will also explain the correct way of disabling things that you will never use. MS is set up for remote operation. Like calling your pooter from a phone which I am pretty sure most don't use that feature. If you want to see what happens when you go to any site while surfing download the free copy of CrapCleaner, run it and let it remove all the internet clutter and cookies, then go to one site and close IE down and rerun CrapCleaner again. You will then see what is really slowing down your internet speed. If you are using Windows 7 or 8 you need to go to Control Panel/ Taskbar and Start Menu/ then select Start menu again/ Customize/ and scroll down to Run Command and check it. Now you will be able to see the run command. I don't know why MS removed that feature.

Mac os 10.3.9 slowing down on eMac in one account, others are faster...why?

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